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Just a Few Questions (Stocking/Setup) - 10/15/06 Hi, <<Hello>> Like everyone I thoroughly enjoy reading your site I find it quite useful for beginners like myself. <<Glad you find it helpful>> I do have a few questions though specific to my tank. <<Okay>> I have a 90-gallon tank (3-4 months old) with about 100 lbs of live rock, as well as live sand and the following livestock: 1 Yellow Tang 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 5 Damsels of various colors <<Potential for problems here>> 1 Tomato Clown 1 Camel back Shrimp 1 Cleaner Shrimp 1 Serpent Star 1 Sea Cuke 1 Arrow Crab 3 Emerald Crabs A handful of Turbo Snails/Mexican Hermits 1 Feather Duster 1 Rock Anemone 1 Haitian Pink Tip Anemone 1 Toadstool Leather 1 Chocolate Chip Star A few Nassarius Snails/2 Conchs I believe "fighting" Now that's being said do I have enough room to add any more fish? <<Mmm, maybe one or two small fishes>> If so would a blue tang or a Kole tang work? <<The tank is too small for a blue (hippo?) tang regardless of the other fish already there...the Kole tang "might" work, but you will likely have trouble adding this with the Yellow tang already established in this tank>> Also the cuke I bought last week to try to help clean up the brown film on the sand has been MIA since I bought it. Is this reason for concern? <<Not if there hasn't been a problem before now, besides, is likely it is "lost" in the rockwork and will eventually reappear. If you want something to clean up your substrate, forget the Kole tang and get yourself a Bullet goby (Amblygobius phalaena)...will do a top-notch job>> I was wondering if they bury themselves. <<No...but they can squeeze in to/through some amazingly small holes/crevices>> From the reading I've done I heard that you don't want these dying in your tank. <<Indeed, though if one of the commonly available brown or "tiger-tail" species this is less of a concern than with the brightly-colored specimens>> I also have a question about Nitrates in general, that is the only problem I am having with my water. They hang around 20-40ppm. Is this ok or too high for the livestock I have? <<Too high...with the inverts you need to strive to keep this below 5-ppm>> I just purchased and set up a skimmer to help with this. <<Excellent, but look too to your source water re>> Should I bother with any of the Denitrifying filter media, or is that just a waste. <<Some Poly-Filter added somewhere in your filter path is always beneficial>> I do 10% water changes once or twice a week. <<Are you filtering your source water? (RO and/or DI) Phosphates seem to be ok however I am getting a lot of brown/green algae growing. I have a 20 gal sump with a return pump. The water just runs through a filter sock and goes back up into the tank. <<This filter sock will need cleaning "at least" weekly, as it soon becomes a trap for decaying detritus>> I believe I have read that trickle filters like this can contribute to higher nitrate levels. <<Indeed, but I don't see any mention of a trickle-filter>> I do change the sock once a week. <<Ah...good>> Any suggestions?...oh I just put the skimmer in the sump to help but the water coming from the outlet on the skimmer is splashing on-top of the return pump sending a lot of little air bubbles into the tank. <<Need to reposition this>> Is this bad for the fish? <<Excessive bubbles, especially small bubbles, can be bad for all>> I moved it around a little to minimize this but am still getting some. <<Perhaps you can place some filter-floss/a piece of filter pad under the skimmer to help eliminate the bubbles from the splashing (be sure to clean/replace at least weekly)>> Finally, I was worried about inadequate lighting and what I could put in my tank as far as anemones and corals go. <<I never recommend mixing anemones with sessile invertebrates>> I have an Odessea power compact with 2 65-watt 12000K daytime bulbs and 2-65 watt actinic blue lights with the 4 led moonlights. Is this sufficient for what I have. <<Barely...I would replace one of the actinics with another 12000K or 10000K bulb>> The Toadstools seems to be doing ok after 2 months. Again, thank you for all you do to help us readers. <<Quite welcome>> You help with the challenges of this addicting and expensive hobby. :) <<Is a pleasure to share. Regards, EricR>> Marine Set-Up 10/06/06 Hi. <Hi Jon> First of all allow me to thank you in advance for reading my letter. Although not necessary, the assistance you give people like me is something that is always appreciated. Your inputs are like prized gems to be treasured by all fish enthusiasts alike. <Thank you for your kind words.> A little bit of history: For 9 months I was rapaciously taking in heaps of information from books and website such as yours trying to get an inside look of what I intend to possess - A reef tank. Required facts ranging from fish and it's nutrition to bioload ratio. From tanks and equipment to water chemistry. I even had to scout my old chemistry book again. However, as one continues to devour needed knowledge to just even touch the surface of reef keeping, there is a good chance that he/she might feel a little bit dazed, confused, perplexed, and maybe even apprehensive. <Yes, not uncommon.> I guess this is the reason why I have decided to follow my own path. Believe it or not, nobody really guided me up to this point. <Sure they did. You've just mentioned taking in heaps of info from books and websites.> No gurus. Just the books, the internet, and little bit of patience was all I have. I thank God my other half (wife) understands. Now I guess the time to walk alone has ended. The time to seek professional advice has begun. My apologies if I am to bombard you with my youthful naive questions. I've decided to start my tank in May 2006. In a weeks time all the equipment was in including a 60 gallon tank (I thought this would be a good start for beginners like me). <A very good choice, the larger the better.> The entire month of May was dedicated in setting up the tank. By the following month (June), live rock and sand arrived and thus the cycling phase was set in motion. This being said, here now is my first question. Is it strange to have ammonia and nitrite close to zero by the 3rd day? <How close is close? Not normal though, especially with uncured rock.> I bought uncured Fiji live rock online. If so, should I be worried of future trends like tank crashes? <No.> Furthermore, the highest nitrate level I have ever recorded was at 50ppm. <Will be high during curing. We like to keep reef aquariums below 10ppm. A good protein skimmer will go a long way here in lowering nitrate/phosphate levels.> Aquarium salt water literatures note that cycling could take weeks. <At least three weeks.> Mine finished cycling in less than a week and had been pretty stable (PH swings of 8.0 to 8.4, zero ammonia and nitrite, nitrate ranging from 15 to 20ppm) since then. <The live rock will shorten the cycling in this regard as there will be beneficial bacteria on the rock promoting denitrification.> I have a DIY sump/refugium (28.45 gallons) and have been running my protein skimmer since day one. <Which brand/model do you have?> Even though my tank screams of an all clear signs at that point in time, I've waited two more months before I put in my tank cleaners. Calcium concentration stabilized at 390ppm. I don't mind the calcium being low as long as it is stable. Am I right to think this way of should I shoot for 420+ ppm? <Anywhere from 390-420 is fine.> I use Salifert calcium test kit for calcium testing and ESV bionic 2 components for calcium and alkaline buffer. I am running (24/7) 5 tablespoon of Marineland premium activated carbon placed in a media bag. I replaced this every month. Although my water stays crystal clear all the time, I think it is leaching out phosphate feeding a few hair algae in my tank. But then again, maybe I am just excessively feeding my two ocellaris clown fish and is providing excess nutrients to the system. <Yes, overfeeding can lead to this. This is a good time for you to read this link along with related files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm> I do not have a phosphate absorber yet like the Phosban or Rowaphos. <Go with Rowaphos if you decide to use one.> What are your thoughts about activated carbon? Some say they don't use it while others swear by it. Others say it removes trace elements (although I think it doesn't, or maybe just a little). <Carbon will remove some trace elements, but with 10% weekly water changes with a good reef salt, the elements will be replenished. Personally, I like Chemi-Pure, almost like a protein skimmer in a bag, and leaches very little in the way of phosphates.> I use RO water by the way and run my PC lighting (260 watt, two 12k daylight and two true actinic) for 8 hours per day. <A total of 260 watts, correct?> I have two Euphyllia (paradivisa & Parancora) right now. Do you have a link that has a picture of a dying paradivisa coral? <Don't believe so, Bob may have one and if so, will attach. These corals aren't good beginner corals. You probably have an environmental issue as to why your corals aren't looking good. How high/tall is your tank? Where are these corals resting, bottom, mid, or upper level?> I've read an article about frogspawn corals detaching itself from its skeleton as being a bad sign. I do not even know where the skeleton is. Simply put, I do not know if it is detaching or not. <Would need to have some pics here my friend.> Please forgive me for this silly question but I must know. You see I dropped my frogspawn coral while I was handling it in the tank. It hit the live rocks maybe 4 to 5 times head first (for lack of a better word). I think its doing fine right now. By using the word fine, I mean its tentacles are green, extended and is swaying back and forth during the day fully retracted at night. <Sounds good.> I dose my system with phytoplankton diet every week. <Might want to try DT's brand if you are not already using it.> I have observed one of my ocellaris clown fish has some white spots on the side of its body that comes and goes. I do not know if my cleaner shrimp has something to do with it with respect to it being gone but I do hope the shrimp can permanently take care of it if it is indeed a form of disease or a parasite attack. <Could very well be an outbreak of ich. Did you quarantine these fish? A must do, my friend.> Should I leave the clowns as is and let the cleaner shrimp do its job or should I treat the fish? <Would just observe for now, if conditions get worse, then quarantine and treat.> Although I have read some information on how to treat diseased fish, putting it to actual use is something I am skeptical of doing. This is where I believe experience would come to play. As of this writing, the white spots are gone again (for about 4 days now). Also, I soak their food (Formula One and Two) with garlic. <Good!> That's about it. And forgive me for my English if I confuse you at times for it is not my primary language. <Not bad at all my friend. We have many that write in to us using english as their primary language with far more grammar/spelling errors than yours.> Thanks in advance. <You're welcome, and do continue to read. James (Salty Dog)> Jon Glorioso Naugatuck, CT MACNA & New Reef Set-up 10/1/06 Bob, <David> Just wanted to drop a quick line and say how enjoyable your information was at the MACNA Conference in Houston. <What a blast! Very well done on MARSH, all's parts> Thanks for the wealth of information you provide on your site. <Welcome> I'm finally setting up my system (several months in the planning), and have had a 78 gallon custom tank sitting there, waiting for me to make up my mind what type of sump/refugium I was going to build. Quite simply, many things will work. <Yes... "many roads"...> I'm doing a reef system from scratch, and feel the refugium and tank with a DSB is what I want the "look" to be. Yeah, yeah, the boogeyman bacteria are there, but there are so many beneficial critters there (the trick is not for them to become "food"), I'm going to tread carefully. <Recommended> It's going to be a fairly simple setup: tank that is bottom drilled, down to sump, part of the water is skimmed, part goes through the refugium, return to tank. Don't know if a chiller will be needed (250W MH + actinics), <You'll see...> but planned the room for one (just in case!!!). Your site has been a HUGE help in cautioning about proper planning. <Good> It was kind of a running joke with the folks I met at MACNA, that I was at the conference and didn't even have a running tank!!! <You are/were not alone, I assure you> Ah well, I'm an engineer by trade (with a minor in chemistry in there, somewhere), so the planning all seemed proper. We'll see how it goes. Again, thanks for all of the great info!!!! David Austin, TX <Very welcome! Bob Fenner> Adding a Tunze Turbelle 6060 to my 125 gal reef - 09/14/06 Hello Guys and Gals, I would like to add a Tunze 6060 to my reef but I am not sure how to place it for optimum performance. Water flow is currently generated from 2 Fluval 802 powerheads set up at either sides of the back wall and with a slight angle so I could bank the flow off the front of the glass. <This is best... at an angle downward...> I also have a 1500 gph pump in my sump that is my return. I am not sure where to place the Tunze. I only purchased 1 for 137.00 dollars. (These babies are not cheap).. Let me know where I should place this given my current config...See ya <Very good powerhead/submersible pumps. Enjoy. Bob Fenner> 45 gallon reef setup 8/13/06 Hey guys and gals! <Chris> Starting from scratch, I have done lots of research and think I have found a good setup to buy but need your TRUSTED opinion. <Only kind I've got> tank: 45g cube: 24"L x 24"W x 18"H I am going to be setting up a reef tank. Live Sand, and live rock. Lights: Ballast, 2 x 22in actinic bulbs (brand new) Plus the German End Caps QUESTION: I think I would probably need more than this to grow basic corals, and clams (I.e.. basic --> nothing to hard to grow because I am just starting out). What do you think? <I agree...> I have the option of buying a 250w single Blue Wave ballast (MH). Should I purchase this as well? If so, what kind of bulb should I purchase? (I would like to keep electrical costs and HEAT down) <Mmm... there are a few lamp choices... these are gone over on WWM. The heat and electricity expense? The first you can avoid to a large degree by mounting the fixture high enough, the second by not running too many hours...> This setup I am looking at comes with a stand with enough room for a 10g sump, and a Mag 12 return pump, and a SCWD water motion device. I figure I would need to put a Protein skimmer in the sump (no room under the canopy for a hang on) <Okay> Should I be worried about heat output from the MH under the canopy? <Likely yes... will need to install, run air-fans wired into the same circuit or run on timers with... at least> Is the protein skimmer needed? <Yes> Thanks a lot for your help. Any other additional info you might have for me is GREATLY appreciated. Chris, Windsor, Ontario, Canada <Chris... keep reading, searching re this project/proposition till you're more confident, knowledgeable. Bob Fenner> Lighting & filtration????? Setting up a Reef 7/23/06 I have a Tru vu 30g regular. The measurements are 36x18x12. What I am trying to due is set up a reef tank with sps coral and some LPSs and zoo's with minimal fish. <Hard to house both "types" of stony corals in such small quarters, together> Maybe the max 5 or 6 fish. <...> I want to start off with the easier sps coral. But I want to give them the right lighting. People have gave me different advice. Some people say MH but I don't think that would not work good for me since my tank is too small and all the heat problems. <A consideration> Others say PC but I hate the fact I got to spend so much on new lights every 6 months. But recently someone told me to use T5's. But am not familiar with those lights. Don't know where to buy them, never seen them, and don't even know if I could find some that would be the right size and work well with my system. <Can be found on the Net, etailers... linked on WWM> Now comes the question of filtration. I already got the aqua-c remora skimmer. I want the coral to thrive so I am kind of confused on what filtration would be the best for this type and size reef tank. <These options are also discussed on WWM> I am going to have live rock and sand for sure. But not sure if I should go with a canister filter. <I would not> Or with the refugium filtration. Not sure what would be the best filtration for the type and size tank I am setting up. <There are a few possibilities... a refugium would be very helpful> Which ones would work the best for my soon to be system? I want to start up with coral frags so I can see all my coral grow and thrive. <A very good idea> I want to get everything I need before I begin to buy any corals or fish. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Names of brands even websites would help. Thank you Julio <Time to send you to read. Start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm See the blue colored listings? These are links to articles and FAQs files... Bob Fenner> Switching to a Reef 7/18/06 Hey Crew, <<Hey Sharon>> I am currently keeping a 46 gal bowfront FOWLR system with 50 lbs of live rock, a 2-3 inch live sand bed, a three stripe damsel, a blue devil damsel, a Clarkii clown, a tomatoe clown, and a coral banded shrimp. <<A rough bunch indeed>> As for equipment, I have a very efficient Excalibur Skimmer, an Emperor 400 power filter, a heater, 2 powerheads, and a strip light on a timer. I would like to upgrade this system to a reef. <<Okay>> I am planning on purchasing a metal halide lighting system with actinic compact fluorescents and a total of 305 watts. I am also going to purchase another powerhead and put all three of them on a wave maker. I think that these are the only modifications that I am going to make to the system unless you think something else is needed. <<Sounds fine>> The livestock that I would like to keep is as follows: 2 percula clowns, 2 Kaudern's cardinals, <<Get a mated pair else they may not tolerate each other in this smallish system>> a royal Gramma, a bicolor angel, a lawnmower blenny, a fire shrimp, a skunk cleaner shrimp, a crocea clam, elegance coral, hammer coral, torch coral, galaxy coral, open brain coral, pink birds nest coral, and a fox coral. <<Ambitious...a mix of some very aggressive corals in a relatively small space. Do be mindful of allowing adequate spacing between all. And be sure to include some chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter) to help deal with the allelopathy that will definitely occur>> I am very excited about starting reef keeping. I am planning on giving the fish and the shrimp currently in my tank to a friend starting out in the hobby. <<Ah...good>> I will then buy all new livestock. I will be supplementing calcium by the means of Kalkwasser. I will add other supplements such as iodine and magnesium, trace elements, and strontium to the system as well. <<Be sure to test for these and supplement only as needed>> I do monthly 10 to 15 percent water changes, and will continue to do so. <<Considering your stocking plan, I would do the water changes "twice" monthly>> Thanks for giving me some of your time and for all of your help. Thanks again, Sharon <<Good luck with your transition, and do let me/us know when we can be of further assistance. EricR>> Marine Set-Up...Opinion Please 7/5/06 Hey WWM crew, <Hey Garrett> I've been a long time reader of your site and have found numerous ideas for my tank. I have just completed my 2 year DIY 200+ gallon tank and was seeking your opinion on the system before I transfer over the livestock. Tank: 60"x30"x26" 1/2 inch thick plate glass tank 3/8 inch Euro bracing, 12"x12" overflow box with two 2" drainpipes (may be too much drainage but will be handy later if I decide to increase the flow) 200 lbs. live rock (from old systems) 240 lbs. sand for the deep sand bed. <Have you read this article on DSBs? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm> Circulation: Dolphin Amp Master 3000 for the main return, little giant mdsq-sc for a closed loop pipe split for two returns under the tank. (thinking I may still need more flow) <Good idea.> Lighting: 4 48" URI Actinics, 2 250W Metal Halides 6500K Iwasakis 8 inches above water.( Rock work is in the form of two islands, one halide over each.) Refugium/sump: 55 gallon tank, filter sock and AquaC EV-180 protein skimmer, sea grasses in 2" sand/mud combo. <I'd go with Chaeto and/or Caulerpa here rather than grasses.> Tank will house a few smaller fish, and mainly SPS (Montipora primarily but one or two Acropora may find their way in there) Before I fill the tank I would appreciate any input (good or bad) you guys may have. That way I can make some adjustments or realize something I may have overlooked before it is too late and the tank is up and running. <Sure sounds like a winner to me, Garrett.> As always thanks for the great source of information located on your site. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> P.S. Do you know what type of fish this is (picture is the one on the 2nd row, 4th from the left) http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/photos/readerphotos/davidsaxby.htm <It's a dead link, at least for me.> David Saxby Tank Future new setup questions ... reef sys. 6/2/06 Hi again crew, <Jeff> One quick anecdote. I came home one afternoon and my protein skimmer was too quiet. Upon investigation I saw that it was plugged with a juvenile ocellaris clown. The poor little sucker was just about bent in half. The powerhead is a MaxiJet 1200 inside of a surface filter for a Remora skimmer, in other words it really sucks. I quickly got him out and thought for sure it would just keel over and die. It was really trying to move around but it was having so much trouble. I ended up putting it into a plastic bag with holes in it and floated it in the tank. After two days, it looked happy and eager to get back to business. It was about 6 weeks ago and the fish is now fully back to health and is growing nicely without any scars or problems. Do you think it is possible that the fish took "finding Nemo" to heart and was trying an escape. I didn't think they were that sentient.... ;-) <Good story. Cover that intake> On another note. I have permission from "the boss" (wife) to build a new reef system (WooHoo!) and I would like some insight/advice. I already have a beautiful 30 gal reef setup that is doing great and the bug has bit hard now that I know it is not any trouble for me to keep things happy & healthy. Not easy, just not a hassle to do it. The plan: 75g or 90g (not show tank height, probably 24" height) with refugium (30-45g respectively) 4-6" substrate (inoculated w/live sand) 90-120 lb of LR, from various sites (Tonga & Fiji pref) Livestock wish list Flame or Coral beauty angel a few chromis Mandarin goby Yellow Jawfish Various cleanup crew with blue legged and scarlet hermits Various snails 1 or 2 Lysmata shrimp (blood or skunk I think) Xenia, Frogspawn, Hammer Coral, and other lower light inverts. No LPS or SPS corals Other wants that I am not sure about include a small (adult size 24" or less) moray. <Mmm, I wouldn't do this here... too much likelihood of trouble... this eel knocking things about mostly...> I know it is a long shot but if possible which species? <A small Echidna likely> The rest of the inhabitants would be carefully chosen as well. A main concern is with the pygmy angels nibbling on the corals and leathers, feather dusters, as well as picking on small neon & citron goby size fish. I also hope to keep lighting in the 3-5w/gal range with PC lighting. As for a protein skimmer. I was thinking of purchasing the Aqua C Urchin Pro. Would that work with the 90g +45gal refugium? It is rated up to 120gal. <Yes and yes> Thank you in advance for your time and advice. Keep up the great work! Jeff Morgan <Ahh, "Morgan", man of the sea. Bob Fenner> New Marine Tank...Decisions, Decisions - 05/23/06 I tried sending you an email earlier, I am not sure if you received it so I'll send it again. <<Hmm...I don't see it in the "sent" folder, nor is it in yesterday's "daily's"...>> Hello I'm sorry but I need to bother you again, sorry to say but you will probably soon know me by name. <<Hello Ryan>> I am going to be getting a new tank soon (going from a 55 to 90). <<Cool!>> My questions are dimension wise what would be better for corals and fish 48x18x24 or 48x21x21 the price difference is only $165 but I am really struggling to make a decision (I have a hard time coming to a decision on anything)? <<My choice would be #2, the deeper tank from front to back. Three inches isn't going to be that much difference to your livestock, but it will have some measure of difference when aquascaping/on how the tank appears to you once water is in it>> Second, I am planning on keeping 2 power compact setups (65 watts each) and I can't decide to add a 250 watt or 400 watt metal halide, it's only 30 dollars difference (I like LPS corals mainly, but also some SPS)? <<The lower wattage will be fine (even 150w/175w), with a 10K-14K spectrum>> Third, I am worried about the transfer, I do not want to have 2 tanks so I am planning on transferring the sand and rock from my 55 into the 90 and of course adding more of each (my main concern is the sand), is stirring up the sand going to cause problems (do I need to keep my fish and corals in a separate tank 20 gal for a period of time)? <<Even though you are transferring the sand/rock from the old system to the new, you still need to allow for the new system to cycle. Yes, disturbing/turning the old sand/rock will cause some die-off of life which has to be taken in to consideration. Best to house your livestock elsewhere for a time as you mention until the tank is cycled/stabilized>> I currently have 230 watts power compact lighting, about 80-90 pounds of rock, at least 50 pounds of sand, kole tang, clown fish, bubble tip anemone, torch coral, Montipora frags (doing well under these lights), mushrooms, open Trachy red brain, green star polyps, Favites brain, queen conch, finger leather (or Kenya tree not sure), and small frag of galaxy coral, all doing well except for Favites which is showing some recession, and I know you don't recommend corals with anemones because I have read many of your "columns". <<Indeed...you have quite a bit crammed in with this anemone...will be serious trouble should it decide to go "walkabout">> I work at a saltwater fish/coral store and they assure me the transfer will be fine (my main concern) but it's in my nature to worry. <<Will likely go fine, with some preparation/precaution...do read here and among the associated links on moving marine tanks: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm >> Once again I REALLY appreciate any advice, and I'm sorry for emailing you what seems like weekly, but I am really struggling with this. <<No worries mate...do your research (from multiple sources) and trust in your own good judgment. Regards, EricR>> P.S. I have yet to kill anything and would like to keep it that way, I have been lucky, and working at a saltwater coral\fish store and keeping my water changes up and listening to your suggestion for a Remora Pro has certainly helped. <<Ah yes, a support network of fellow hobbyists and a good skimmer...both important to success>> I again apologize for being a pain, and thank you in advance I really take your advice seriously, Ryan Nienhuis (If this name is not familiar I am sure it will be in the future). <<I/we look forward to the correspondence, and your continued growth/advancement in the hobby. Eric Russell>> New Marine Tank...Decisions, Decisions III - 05/27/06 Thanks for the response sorry it took me so long to email back...working a lot. <<Mmm, can relate...>> I believe I have a plan in place and will take some of your advice. <<Great!>> I will be purchasing some new sand which will be seeded with my current sand and water. I will definitely take your advice on letting that go a while, then I plan to add the new/old sand into the new tank which will already have some of my water change (old tank) water in it. <<I think you may have misunderstood...go ahead and add the sand (new and old) to the tank and let it age there rather than in a separate container. Seeding the new sand in a different container to be added to the tank later only delays cycling as when you make the transfer you will disturb/kill some of the bacteria when you mix the stratifications (can't be helped)>> I am going to purchase some cured live rock from the store I work at and add that as well. <<Excellent>> Then over the period of a week or so (like you suggested) I will add my live rock and sand as well as water and livestock after the tank has cycled with new sand which I plan to seed 3 weeks before I do any of this. <<Do be cautious if you go this route re my earlier comments>> Do you think this will work well. <<I would prefer to seed the "new" sand in the "new" tank>> I was also told by someone going to school to be a marine biologist that after removing everything but the sand from my old tank I should add 5 gallons of water stir the sand with pvc pipe then siphon out all the "sediment". Is this a good suggestion? <<I think they are referring to removing the detritus...a good practice if you were cleaning up/reusing all the sand, but not necessary or recommended when just using a few cups for seeding the new sand>> This is the last time I will bother you for a while. Thanks a lot, Ryan. <<No bother Ryan...do read through our live sand FAQs for a better understanding of this media...you can start here; be sure to follow the links at the top of the page as well (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm). Regards, EricR>> New Saltwater tank New Tank/Set-Up Questions - 05/10/2006 Hi Crew (first time questioner) <Welcome, my friend.> I currently have a 60 Gallon tank and am going to a 120 gallon. My Trickle Filter currently has Bio Balls and I am thinking of removing them and using 2" Sand Bed and 60lb of Live Rock in Main Tank, and a Red Sea Berlin Classic Protein Skimmer in the Sump to handle the load, Would this be sufficient for the new tank? <Should be fine. I cut the sand bed down to 1/2 to 3/4 unless you are planning on getting live sand with lots of critters.> I have a Mimic Tang, Maroon Clown and Diana's Hogfish and some corals but will increase the number of fish with the new tank slowly). Would I need to put any mechanical filtration in the sump, I believe the new tank over flow has a pre-filter, but I wouldn't want any other mechanical filtration to have to clean, is this OK? <Should be fine, just clean the pre-filter weekly.> I basically was hoping to be able to increase the amount of water in the sump to reduce the noise from the spinning arm of the Trickle Filter and overall tank capacity. P.S Could you tell me, I currently have a 2280 ltrs/hour Eheim pump going through the Skimmer. Can I increase through put with a bigger pump, Is there a need to do this? <The 12 blade turbo pump that came with the skimmer should produce maximum efficiency with the skimmer. No need to increase pump volume, the skimmer would more than likely overflow if a larger pump were used. James (Salty Dog)> Ta REALLY Cool Reef Set-Up - 5/5/2006 Hi All, <Hi Mike, Adam J with you.> You've been a tremendous help to me in the past. I've managed to avoid serious problems by following your advice, and my charges are thriving. <Awesome, glad to hear it!> So much so, I'm planning on expanding to a larger tank (from a 90- gallons SPS reef tank to 250-gallon fore reef to lagoon channel biotype tank). <Sweet.> In setting up this new tank, I'd like to limit the amount to energy used for both economic and environmental reasons. <Very admirable.> I'd also like to minimize noise as the tank will be in my office, and I work from home. So here are some of my ideas: (1) Putting in a sun tube to provide some natural lighting. For about $500 I can get on average 6k lumens according to the specs (perhaps a little more as I live just outside of Boulder, CO. and we get 270 of sunshine a year, and we are a mile high). The initial cost is higher than the equivalent amount of light from MH, but it should be cheaper in the long run. I hoping the inverts will be happier. <Great idea, I love natural sunlight, just be sure to get a lux meter.> (2) Since the tank is being placed against an exterior wall, place the pumps etc. outside in an insulated shed placed against the exterior wall and plumbing through the wall to reduce the noise. <That is what I have done w/ my in wall set-up.> (3) Exhausting the heat from the MH lights into the shed in order to keep the tank and my office cool. <Also smart.> (4) Manage the heat build-up in the summer and the freezing temperatures in the winter to which the shed will be exposed (it can get to -10 at night on occasion) by installing temperature controlled exhaust fans in the shed along with the use of heavy duty insulation. <Also nice.> (5) Burying a tank under the shed below the frost line to provide natural cooling and additional water volume so that I don't have to run my chiller continually. <I would like to see that employed.sounds intriguing.> (6) Feed my two protein skimmers directly via gravity overflows from main tank instead of using dedicated pumps? <Why two skimmers? Why not just one large efficient skimmer like a Bubble King or a Deltec? Just wondering> What do you think? <I dont think you need my help, hehe.> Are any or all of these ideas crazy? If not, which ones would you consider worth implementing? <All sound interesting at the least, especially your temp. control methods.> I eagerly await your response. <Wish I was there to see it!> Michael <Adam J.> Re: Reef Set-Up 4/30/06 One other question for you. I am at a point with this aquarium where I could change out the substrate for a deep sand bed in hopes of reducing nitrates. Do you think this is a worthwhile venture? I do not have room for the hang on refugium behind my tank due to size constraints in the room. <Rick, much easier to read here than tell you about such. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Rick Upgrade 4/30/06 Hello Crew, <Aaron> I have been thinking about upgrading my FOWLR to a reef aquarium for some time now, but I want to know what I need in order to do so. I have had my aquarium for about a year now with only one fish death. I bought the aquarium when it was already started, the fish that died was already old when I bought the aquarium, and a blamed its age over the care. Other than that all of my fish are healthy. They seem to get along well, and I would like to try my hand at a reef setup. I currently have a 50 gallon bow-front aquarium with 50lbs of live rock and a three inch crushed coral sand bed. I have an Excalibur skimmer, an Emperor 400 filter, 2 powerheads, a heater, and 40 watts of fluorescent lighting. I know I need to upgrade the lighting, and I am planning on having a total of 305 watts. I would like to house a yellow stripe maroon clown, an algae blenny, a pair of Kaudern's cardinalfish, a Heniochus butterflyfish, and a flame angel. As for inverts, I would like a featherduster cluster, a blood red fire shrimp, a sand sifting star, a fancy tiger-striped serpent star, yellow Fiji leather coral, <Not easily kept> starburst polyp coral, hammer coral, Alveopora coral, trumpet coral, and an anemone <I would not mix this here> that will host my maroon clown (suggestions). I am not going to put all of these inverts in at once. I will probably introduce the shrimp, and stars first and give them a few weeks to adjust. Then I will introduce one coral every month, until I have the ones that I want. Then, after I am ready, I will introduce the anemone. What supplies will I need to take care of these animals? What other equipment do I need, and what can I do without? I am on a budget, and I don't want to waste money on stuff I don't need. Thanks a lot for reading my letter, and giving me some advice. I love your site, and read up on inverts, reefs, and fish when ever I get the chance. Thanks again, Aaron <Your answers are archived on WWM... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm Bob Fenner> 120 set up question 4/29/06 <Janey, Justin here with you today.> Just purchased a new 120 gallon (4'x2'x2') tank. I have a Coralife Aqua Pro 150 watt DE MH with 2-96 watt PC for my lighting (still in box). I plan to combine my 29 gallon and 55 gallon in to this tank:) The LFS has recommended a Aquamedic Turbo floater skimmer and a mag drive 12 pump for my return. <Good skimmer, should be fine for your tank if it is large enough.> Does this set up seem okay to keep shrooms, LPS? I have some Montiporas and Pocilloporas which I plan keeping up top. I also have a BTA that will go in or else have to find a new home for if this is inadequate lighting. <You will find that the LPS and shrooms may prefer lower light areas, or shade if you will, the Monti and the anemone need to be in the highest light area.> Finally, would you mount the Mag12 internally or externally to cut down on heating the tank water? <Externally would be better if you can, the heat isn't passed through. However, if the pump is in the sump, if it does fail, there wont be a leak. I would put it outside and plumb it properly using unions and ball valves incase you have to disconnect.> Thanks so much for the help..... Janey <Justin (Jager)> Please could you offer me some opinion over the use of sand in my reef aquarium? - 04/27/06 Hello WWM crew, <Good evening Bob, Jen here.> Please could you offer me some opinion over the use of sand in my reef aquarium? <Sure!> On setting up I had a purely cosmetic, (although I'm sure slightly beneficial), thin scattering of coral sand on the aquarium base. Detritus build up has meant that I have removed most of this as it seemed easier maintenance wise and coralline algae has since colonized the glass improving its bare look. I live in an area of soft water here in the UK and have recently been having buffering issues,( not helped by a faulty pH meter). <Understand that one.> Now it has been suggested by my LFS and some fish keeping friends that my chosen brand of salt is one possible contributing factor to this problem, <Could be, depends on the mix.> ( KH had dropped to 5 and pH 7.6), but use of a reef buffer has brought things back to a more healthy level,( KH 10, pH 8.2). It was also suggested that adding a 1" to 2" bed of sand would help prevent recurrence of this problem, that and a new pH meter!), but I am concerned at the detritus problem becoming an issue again. Will a deeper bed of sand and the accompanying clean up crew if purchased,( conches, sand sifting stars etc), help prevent build up of detritus? <I personally am a proponent of sand beds, and sometimes DSB in the reef set up. I would suggest that about 2 inches and then the addition of the appropriate clean up crew would help you with the issue. Remember to include many critters that will stir the bed and aerate it, also those who may consume detritus.> I'm basically after your collected insights as to whether sand is the way to go, and if so which type and how deep? <This would be personal preference. I would suggest aragonite mix approximately 2-3 inches deep; deeper if you wish.> The tank is 340 liters after displacement by the 45 kg of live rock within. Its 60 cm deep, 45 cm wide and 150 cm long. The system has been running since last June. Thank you in advance for your help. <Youre very welcome, good luck with this. Jen S.> Bob Mehen, Cornwall, UK. Reef tank setup ...? - 04/16/06 Hi, my name is Chris <Hi, my name is Jodie, and I am adding your capital letters and punctuation for you.> I am setting up my first salt water system. I am planning a setup with approx. 100 lbs of live rock and about ten fish and a few anemones in a 55 gallon tank. <Whoa, whoa. What kind of fish? You could get away with ten smaller fish, but certainly not ten tangs, or ten triggers, etc. Details, details. The words "a few anemones" also bothers me. These can be difficult creatures to care for, and should not be taken lightly. Please read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and the extensive FAQ/articles therein.> I have an Emperor 400 BioWheel filter. Could you please advise me of a good protein skimmer to use? I was thinking of a CPR backpack? <I've heard good things about the BakPak, though I've never used one. AquaC makes good equipment as well. I'd take a look at the Remora if you need a hang-on skimmer.> Thank you very much in advance, <You're welcome. Best wishes to you and your fishes! Jodie> Chris K. Millsboro DE. New 125Gal perfecto reef ready reef setup .. Not quite-ready aquarist 4/4/06 First I have read and read many of your articles and FAQs. The one thing I have learned is there are as many different ways to set up a reef system as there are reef systems. <Close to> Guess this means no one way is good for all, unfortunately. <Not unfortunate> I have a list I have made form what I have read and want your opinion. First for substrate I was thinking of the following: 100 Lbs reef sand, 25 Lbs crushed coral, 50 Lbs AragAlive Fiji pink. All mixed together before putting in tank. Your opinion please as I am wanting to be able to put varied soft/hard corals and reef safe fish in. <See WWM re Marine Substrates... want either shallow or deeper...> I am going to use two mag 9.5 submersible pumps which should give about 750Gph per pump at 5' head for each return. <Uhh, ummm, do check with the fitting sizes of the through-put holes here... unless these folks have enlarged, your pumps will overwhelm these drains> Figured two better than one large one. <Mmm, no... not always, and not in this case> Hate single point of failures. This would give me about 1500 Gph thru a sump/refugium. <This is way too much flow through a refugium> Here lies the problem. I don't think I can do a DSB or macroalgae with that type of flow thru a sump. A sump and a separate refuge are not an option at this time. <You might want to by-pass a good deal of the flow here... even arrange one of the pumps as a closed-loop manifold... covered on WWM> Here again I need your input. I have not decided on a sump (really confused and was hoping for suggestions from you on this, taking above into account). <Keep reading> Last, for now, I am trying to decide on the AquaC EV180 or the Coralife 220 needle wheel skimmers. Again you have experience with these. I know you folks really like the AquaC but the Coralife comes highly recommended by LFS. <They make more money on it. The AquaC is a bit better> I don't want to sound rude but I really need some clear cut answers as if I do it wrong I might not be able to start over and would feel really bad if I killed everything. Hope you didn't take that the wrong way. <Nope> I just think that sometimes too much information can sometimes be more detrimental than not enough (confusion can lead to bad choices). <An important life lesson... to sort through... discern data which is valid, meaningful, significant... how much is enough...> I guess this brings me back to the beginning of my email about more ways than stars to set one up. Thanks so much as I stay up late reading your stuff and bought your book since I don't think you take donations. <We do have an Amazon begging bowl...> Great book. By the way I believe one of you live in the Las Vegas area. I will be there for a week on April 23 and if you had time I would love to buy you dinner and chat or maybe look at some of your setups for ideas. Thanks a bunch. <... Keep reading Gary... you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>
Re: Marine Set-Up/Return Circulation Concept ... reefgeek cont. 4/8/06 Aloha WWM Crew!!!!!, <Hello John, James here today.> "Reef Geek in training" here. Great site by the way...lots of great ideas and pics!!!...thanks a lot. <You're welcome.> I have always referred to your site for great info. I have scoured your site looking for some answers to my circulation concept detailed below, unfortunately without success. I have kept a FO tank for quite a few years and now am making the "jump" into a reef. I'm taking my time and doing a lot of research (maybe too much)....<Can never be too much.> I learned that lesson from keeping my marine tank. I was hoping you might be able to give me your opinion on a return system I've planned and diagramed out. I have a 75 gallon tank 48 x 18 x 20. I know circulation needs to be a lot stronger than I'm accustomed to, along with a lot of other things. I am trying to ensure there are to be no "Dead Spots" with regards to circulation, especially behind the reef itself where it meets the glass. <A good idea.> I have an "in wall" set up for my tank giving the "window effect" so the traditional rear reef wall reef won't work for me. My aquascape is going to have 2 slopes on either side of the tank....meeting in the middle. I'm just more concerned if this will work and be worth my time, effort and $$. I know the trend is to do a separate closed loop system but I'm really trying to stay away from that concept. I'm extremely limited on cabinet space and due to the "in wall" set up and plumbing it would be a nightmare if not impossible. My thinking is I'd really hate to see the return flow from my main return pump connected to my sump just "go to waste"........so to speak......by simply pumping it back into the display tank arbitrarily. Why not take that flow and by directing to certain areas within the tank thereby putting it to good use. <Indeed!> Anyways, here's my plan. As of right now my plans are to use 2 Maxijet MP900 "Tunzean Like" mods located on either side of the tank pointed at each other directing flow side to side, cycling on a Chauvet timer. I know...bad idea with the timer cuz it will shorten the life of the pumps, but I really like the "waving effect" it the timer will produce with the corals so its worth prematurely replacing the pumps at a cost of 30 bucks. <Maxijets are one of the few that work well with wave making timers. Should last quite some time.> From my return standpipe I would construct either out of pvc and/or loc-line a return system with "down tubes" placed behind each reef wall as well as nozzles directing return flow from front to back....directly opposite to the flow of the MaxiJets for a lot of turbulence. Here's my diagram. Reef Tank/Set-Up 3/27/06 Hello Crew <Hello Brian> Some more questions for you. And I'm praying I'm planning this out right...Because I live out of a wheelchair these are the choice's I've made for filtration and easy maintenance on the tank and me. Filtration is called XP3 Filstar Canister filter made by Rena. I bought 2 of these filters as they pump 350 gallon's per hour. Is this good? I can buy another if I NEED it. <A decent filter, easy to work with/clean. > Because of power outages I have to use these filter's or I would use much better filtration like over flows or sumps. <Where is the difference?> For water movement I'm getting 4 power head's (maxi-jet) 295 gallon per hour. Should I get pre-filter sponges for them? <No, will be something else to clean.> Do I NEED more behind the live rock (smaller powerheads)? <Shouldnt, with two canister filters and four powerheads.> Substrate ....This is a touchy subject...The more I read the more I'm lost. I'm not anywhere close to buying inverts but here's what I want. I want 2 or 3 Sand sifting sea Star Fish at least. I love them) <Tank isnt large enough to support three food wise, two at most.> Two cleaner shrimp, one Coral Banded Shrimp, 20 Blue leg hermits, and lots of other invertebrates to move Substrate for me...I was thinking of going with Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand, 4 or 5 inches deep. It comes in size 1 to 1.7 mm grain. Whats your thought's on this sand? Im getting coral that needs fine sand thats another reason for this choice of sand. <A good choice, just make sure you do have plenty of critters roaming around in the sand. May want to order some live sand that has plenty of these critters to set up a base population.> The Refugium I decided to go with is called an AquaFuge External Hang-on Refugium. They come in 3 size's, should I get the biggest one? <I would.> It's 25"1/2L, 4"1/2W, 12"H. I cannot use my 75-gallon for a refugium because of my life style. I think it will end up being a problem waiting to happen if you know what I mean... <Understand here.> Sorry about the long email I just want this done right spend less money this way. Till next time, happy reef keeping. <Do search/read Marine Set-Up and "Live Sand Beds" on our Wet Web Site. In future queries/replies, please do a spelling/grammar check before sending. It took me five times longer to edit than to answer. We have to clean these up before we can post on the dailies and it takes extra time which could be utilized in answering other queries and I do not enjoy doing it. James (Salty Dog)> Your friend Brian New Focus - 03/06/06 Gentlemen
<<and Ladies>> Greetings, <<Hello>> Thanks to
you guys and nine months of research and some lessons (the hard way)
<<Oof!>> I have successfully set up my 65 gallon softie and
LPS tank with refugium, DSB and sump - my fish are happy- my kids are
thrilled and I have an excuse to spend more money - hence my new
project. <<Whee! Life is good...!>> I tried to
find answers on the site- Bob, Anthony and Steve have addressed similar
issues but none fits my situation exactly. <<Ok>> I am
trying to setup a 92 (35LX35WX24H) gallon corner tank with a
fish-centric focus ( I want to get fish that might not be considered
reef safe). <<I'm with you...>> I hesitate to call it a
FOWLR since I will have some simple corals like zos, mushrooms, polyps,
etc., to create a "natural" environment. <<With you so
far...>> However I want to have my setup be "SPS
capable" in case I change my mind and want to keep SPS corals or
anemones. <<Umm...at the expense of having to possibly change
your fish stock list, yes?>> I have 2 constraints from my better
half - I can't hang anything from the walls or ceilings (my
ceilings are 22 feet!). <<Hmmm...Wonder who gives them
"better halves" all that power/authority? <grin>
>>. I will be using a 6-inch DSB which will cut the 24-inch tank
height to 18 inches. Here are my questions: 1) Lighting is
an issue for the odd shape and size of the tank, i.e. a triangle.
<<Agreed>> And considering that I can't hang a
fixture/pendant from the wall or ceiling is an issue. (A lot of
solutions offered on the site suggest hanging the
lights). The tank does not come with a canopy and building
one is currently out of the question for cost and aesthetic reasons.
<<I see>> Any suggestions here? <<Yep...Aqualight
offers a 150W HQI pendant that mounts to the top of the tank via an
articulating arm (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13922&N=2004+113352). A
couple of these would "fill the bill" for your
situation.>> I am thinking of using a 24" Coralife or
Current USA combined double ended halide/pc/moon light(150W 10000K with
Actinic 03 )fixture which as legs and mounting it on the glass top
which comes with it. <<This could work, but I'm thinking if
you decide to go "reef" you will want/need "two"
metal halide lamps.>> This will raise it about 4-6 inches from
the glass top (the fixture lights are covered by glass also).
<<Mmm, I would be hesitant about leaving the glass tank top in
place myself...much heat buildup, inhibited gas exchange, blocked light
intensity...better to remove the top, in my opinion.>> If I do
this will this be enough light for SPS tank setting given that my tank
height is now 18in due to my six inch DSB? <<This will depend on
specie selection/placement...but likely yes.>> Will my glass top
crack due to heat and will I have ventilation issues? <<I think
so.>> Any recommendations or references will be appreciated. 2)
At your suggestion I made sure the tank was predrilled but the rating
for this tank is only 400 gph. <<What size bulkhead?...if
1", more likely 300-350 gph.>> Apart from installing
powerheads in the tank or installing a closed-loop system is there any
way to increase flow? <<That about covers it...>> I was
going to add a small canister filter to help out. <<Can be
useful. Fill with carbon/Poly-Filter and service
regularly.>> I was thinking about getting some Maxijets with
loc-lines to throw into the sump and place the lock-lines in the tank
but I fear that I will be still constrained to 400 gph max. <<You
are correct (in toto).>> I will be using a Mag 7 return pump - do
you consider this too powerful giving the overflow rating - I really
want a quiet setup <<Install a gate-valve on the outlet side of
the pump to temper flow as necessary.>> 3) Since I love my
refugium on my 65 gallon I wanted to get a refugium for this
tank. However, the space underneath the tank is too small to
get a sump and a refugium. <<Perhaps in combination?>> I
plan on using a Euro Reef 6-1 skimmer, <<I love ER
skimmers!>> the DSB in the tank, a phosphate reactor and a sump
to manage nutrient export. Would this suffice or should I
consider a combined sump/refugium? <<Can work fine as
outlined...will be determined by your stocking levels/commitment to
proper tank maintenance/husbandry.>> My only concern is that I
would not be able to fit the skimmer, phosphate reactor, etc., in the
sump area. <<Mmm, perhaps a refugium is "not" in your
future.>> Finally can you recommend where I can research whether
a particular non-reef safe fish e.g. a Majestic angel would bother a
particular coral e.g. blue zos or mushrooms. I already have
Bob's and Borneman's books - any sites or additional book will
be welcome. <<Best to take these questions to the hobby forums
(e.g.- Reef Central, Reefs.org) and poll the participants for their
experiences re.>> Thanks again for the service you provide.
<<Regards, EricR>> Set Up ... reef 3/17/06 Dear Crew, <Andrea> I love the sight dearly and thoroughly enjoy going through all the questions you have spent hours responding to, therefore apologies if you have already answered these question 87 times already... Tank: Reef Display 96.7g / 439.6 l Sump 28.1g / 127 l Total H20 volume 128g / 567.4 l Sal 34ppmTemp 25 degrees pH 8.2- 8.4NH4 0N02 0N03 10>P04 0.5> I have three questions.... sorry...1. I have just started to run the sump with miracle mud, and Caulerpa prolifera on a reverse cycle to keep pH stable. <Why not 24/7?> I would like to carry on using Kalk to promote calcareous algal growth. When is it best to dose this, ( I was using 1 tsp of Two Little Fishies Kalkwasser in 5g RO dripped into display during the course of the night). <Fine> 2. How do I calculate water turnover in the tank when measuring LPH / and offset that against head? I have calculated:1 x ocean runner 6500 = 6500lph1 x Eheim 1060 = 2880lph6500+2880 = 8780 / 567L (total water volume of my tank)= turnover of 15 times per hour, however I know this is not right as head has to come into the equation. Both pumps run through:39" of horizontal 3/4" pipe, and 32" of vertical.1 check valve, 2 x 90 degree elbows and 1 x 45 degree elbow. The distance between the pump and the inlet is 5 foot; the water drains passively via a wear. <Weir> How can I find out what the total head is, and use that figure to recalculate the water turn over of my tank. <Go here, many useful calculators for such. http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php > 3. My local dealer quarantines the fish I buy from him as I only have a small 56L quarantining tank. I have noticed white spot on the recent fish I purchased and this has started to spread to my older inhabitants. What in your opinion is the lowest salinity I could achieve without damaging the corals (several SPS 1 x LPS, 2 x Discosoma, 1 x Ricordea, 3 x star polyps several shrimps, snails and crabs) and do you have any other suggestions on how I can combat this with out buying more quarantine tanks (its not so much the money but more the room)<All found on our web site. Do search hyposalinity and disease treatment.> Thank you so much for your help. <Youre welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Best wishes Andrea Almost There (Plans For A New System) - 03/05/06 Hey Yinz, <Hey there! Scott F. with you tonight!> I have been planning a 165g (72x24x24) bowfront acrylic FOWLR system for two months now, having spent over $300 in just books alone (yes, TCMA is included!). It WILL be fish only. <Good that you have a clear vision!> Unfortunately, it will have a large bioload (14 fishes with maximum recorded adult lengths all totaling 114" including a One spot Rabbit, a Magnificent Rabbit, a Bicolor Rabbit, an Orange Shoulder Surgeon, an Achilles Surgeon, a Keyhole Angel, a Scribbled Angel, 2 pink spotted Shrimp Gobies, an Arc eye Hawkfish, a Bluethroat Trigger, a Scott's Fairy Wrasse, and I knowingly want to attempt 2 Blue Spot Butterflies. I have done the research and will add them 2 at a time, after a 4-week quarantine period in a custom 25g tank, in a predetermined, precise order. <WOW~~~ I hate to be the proverbial "sugar in the gas tank" here, but that is just way, way, way too many fishes of significant size for this sized aquarium. You have to have room for water in there, you know what I mean? Seriously, I would not even think of attempting this fish load in a tank even twice this size. You really need to eliminate some of these choices from your list. The Rabbitfish can and will reach large sizes, and can become quite "skittish" if cramped. The Orange Shoulder Surgeon is a very large fish, needs LOTS of room, and can become a behavioral problem if it feels overcrowded. Please rethink the stocking plan!> My aquascaping will be unique and I hope it will diffuse any aggression between my charges. That is why I now come to you, for I want to make sure my filtration will make their environment as clean and healthy as possible. <Great filtration is an aid, but it cannot overcome the crowded conditions...> I was planning on adding 180-200# of live rock (the end total will depend what my aquascaping will allow), with 2" of live sand. The linear length of the overflow will be just over 30". The two bulkheads will be 1.5" leading to a custom 80g acrylic sump. The protein skimmer will be from Bermuda Aquatics (the only way to find the next best design out there is to actually test it, and their customer service has so far been impeccable) turning the tank over 7.5x an hour. There will be a tray to use Seachem's SeaGel (carbon and phosphate removing mix) in a 180-micron bag before the water reaches the 50g refugium. <I'm very much in favor of the use of aggressive protein skimming and chemical filtration media. They will definitely aid in maintaining good water quality.> What type of refugium is best for my large fish load (my most perplexing decision)? I was leaning toward a 4" live sand bed, unknown amount of live rock, and Chaetomorpha spp. macroalgae filling the remaining space. What opinions do you have on these three factors? <Sounds fine. I'd strongly consider utilizing a lot of macroalgae, such as the aforementioned Chaetomorpha, which, if harvested regularly is an excellent way to help export nutrients.> How often shall I remove the Chaetomorpha, if at all? <I'd try to pull weekly, if it's growing.> I will do a water change of 20g (12%) weekly. Do you think the tank's LR & LS, and whatever refugium setup you recommend, will be adequate enough to remove the nitrates? <It can help. Again, the single biggest thing that you can do at this point is to modify the overly-ambitious stocking plan.> I will have three return pumps running six return lines. From what I have read, it is best to have the lines go above the in-tank water level with siphon breaks to prevent return pump failures flooding the sump (check valves are apparently not that reliable). <You got that right!> Are there any other more-aesthetic non-flooding return line configurations I have not yet come across? <Consider a manifold system as suggested by Anthony Calfo. It's a very controllable, every safe way to distribute water throughout the tank.> I will also have two internal box wavemakers for vigorous water movement. <Nice.> Other aspects of my prospective system... Two 200w Ebo-Jager's in the 50g refugium controlled by a Medusa set at 77.5' (I live near Pittsburgh, PA). 384w Power Compacts lighting the tank and timed. Unknown wattage over refugium on reverse daylight cycle. Week-aged (necessary?) R/O water (aerated, pH and temp. adjusted to system's) for replacement water for my weekly water change. I am sincerely thankful to WetWebMedia, and for any information and recommendations you can give me to provide the healthiest and most stable setup for my charges. I unfortunately have restricted computer access, so I am unable browse through all of your FAQs without it taking weeks. So please pardon this article of questions. I thank you all, again, at WetWebMedia. I will pass on your vast wealth of information to any aquarist I come across. I hope you all know what you are doing for our hobby. Your help goes beyond comprehension. Sincerely, Craig M. Carberry <Well, Craig- everything sounds great about your system and your prospective husbandry techniques. The only real problem I have is with the stocking list. If you re-work it into something more manageable, your dedication and equipment will ensure success. Do re-think that, continue with your plans, and prepare for success! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Three reef questions - 3/1/2006 Dear Crew <John> Long time, first time, you guys rock. 12 years ago or so, I had a 55-gallon FO system with a UG filter, coral skeletons and little to no information. Now Im amazed that my fish lived as long as they did back then. <Heeee!> My current salty tank is a 13-month-old 20L reef. It houses 25 lbs. live rock, 30 lbs. live sand, two leathers, mushrooms, Ricordea, three Zoa colonies, a xenia bush that would take over if I let it, Chaeto, hermits, snails, a large red brittlestar (awesome animal), a sixline wrasse and a green clown goby. My percula recently jumped. <Happens> I would like to replace the perc with two of the same (I quarantine). Ive read about how to choose a pair of Percs. Will my system support four small fishes? <Not these four, not peacefully> One of the leathers has two Zoa polyps growing through its base. The polyps came with the frag as they are different than what I currently have. I assume they should be removed. Can I just pluck them out or do I need to do some cutting? <Take care here... read on WWM... including human health concerns... I'd remove, cut, rinse outside the system for sure...> The leather seems to be OK as is. The base is a little darker in color where the intruders are growing. <Not appropriate for this small system... Sarcophytons can get to be room size...> I have recently purchased a used DIY skimmer and a used DIY refugium (about 3.7 gallons) from the RC boards. I am thinking about refugium substrate. I did not mention, that on top of the sand is seven pounds of GARF grunge (live rock pebbles) and two pounds of grunge plus (mud and shells). <Is posted on WWM> I believe very recently Bob called this GARF garbage (now I know). <"Is an old guy with a hammer, bunk/dead live rock"> I was hoping to move this inch of garbage to the refugium. Then I could actually see my sand bed for the first time. So, does this sound like an OK plan? <Ok> If so, the sand has been undisturbed for a year. Should I start vacuuming or just leave it be? The top third of the sand is quite brown when viewed through the glass. <I'd vac> Thanks for all you do! John <Welcome. Bob Fenner> Reef setup - 02/20/06 Hello wet web, Great site you have here. Lots of good info and great advice. Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions. Here is mine. Im planning on staring up a reef setup in the near future. I have done a lot of research on your website and on others and I think I have a pretty good idea as to what I need and was hoping you could take a glance at it and tell me if Im on the right track. Sorry if its so long, I like to be precise when it comes to fish keeping. Setup: I have a SeaClear 100 gallon Uniquarium 60Lx20Hx18W. This is a fish only setup with no live rock. Filtration is a wet dry with a SeaClear skimmer, is this skimmer of good quality? <Unfortunately no. Feeble at best... I would abandon this, get a real one> I have two powerheads for circulation inside the tank and I do 15% water changes weekly. The lighting is currently 2x20watt regular fluorescents. <Insufficient for anything but simple fish-only arrangements> Water Parameters: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20ppm, PH 8.3, SG 1.023. Established for about 1 1/2yrs now. I wanted to see what the difference in the lowest point and the highest point of my ph was. When is the ph the highest and when is it the lowest? <The higher number is the highest... most basic, alkaline...> What is a safe drop in ph? <Mmm, a 0.1 change in a day likely> Fish: Currently I have 1 Foxface 1 yellow tang 4 green Chromis 2 Yellow tail Damsels 3 clowns All getting along well I will be getting 1 Flame angel 1 Coral Beauty (adding them at the same time of course) Maybe a couple of Anthias Is this too many fish? <Should be okay... the Angels may fight> Should I add the angels before the coral or after? <Last> Live Rock: I will be getting about 80-100lbs of Fiji live rock and will seed my current 30lbs of base rock with it. <Would do better with more light...> Will I get coralline algae on this live rock with 40watts of regular fluorescents in my 10gallon quarantine tank? <Possibly... if you have sufficient biomineral AND alkalinity> Of course I will not add 100lbs of rock all at once in the quarantine. Maybe 20lbs at a time. I can also put it directly in my main tank and use 2 65watt actinic pcs. This rock will first be cured of course. Will that work? <Maybe... I would cure it elsewhere myself> I wanted to do this a little at a time. Skimmer: I was thinking of getting the Aqua-c Remora pro or the EV 120. Ive read really good reviews of these skimmers. <Good products> Other possibilities were the ETS, Euro reef, Precision marine or Berlin classic although I have heard mixed reviews about the Berlin. Do you recommend these or anything else? <Yes... posted on WWM> Lighting: My lighting set up will consist of two 175watt 10k Hamilton metal halides and two 65watt actinic pcs. Are the pcs necessary when keeping LPS? The MHs will be 12 inches off the top of the water and the pcs will be 6 inches off the top. Is this too close or too far? <... posted> Coral: My coral will mostly be LPS, mushrooms, Polyps, Anemones and maybe Tridacna clams. Will my lighting be sufficient? Do I need a calcium reactor if I dont have SPS? Cooling: I know I will need some sort of cooling method for my tank so I have 4 cooling fans and will be getting a JBJ Arctica chiller either a 1/10 or a 1/5hp. Which do you think I will need or do you recommend any others? Can I place the aqua-c remora pro on the same pump as the chiller? The help is much appreciated Thanks, Mike <Keep reading Mike... Bob Fenner> Stocking level/Fish Dinner 2/14/06 Hello Bob, <James today.> This is my first e-mail to you but I have spent a lot of time reading the information you provide on wetwebmedia.com. I also purchased your book The Conscientious Marine Aquarist which I thoroughly enjoyed. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! <Bob sends his thanks!> I purchased a 58 gallon Oceanic Reef Ready tank (36x18x21) which will be set up as a reef aquarium. I am still in the planning process and I would love it if you could provide me with some feedback. <Sure, you won't like it though.> The corals I am most interested in keeping are Euphyllia and Xenia but I would like to include a mixture of mushroom anemones, leather corals, various polyps and two or three giant clams and possibly Fungia. The aquarium will contain 50 to 60 pounds of Walt Smith Fiji live rock. The substrate will be a one inch layer of CaribSea Aragamax Select. I considered using a deep sand bed in the main display tank but I have decided that I will set up a 15 gallon aquarium (20x10x18) as a refugium with a four to five inch sand bed and Chaetomorpha. Lighting for the refugium will be provided by normal fluorescents or power compacts. I am considering two different lighting systems for the main display tank. The first system is the Hamilton Technology Deluxe Canopy with 2x96W PC's and a 175W Metal Halide. The second system is the Current USA Outer Orbit hood which contains 2x96W PC's and a 150W HQI metal halide. Do you have a preference between the two? At this point I am leaning towards the Current USA system due to the HQI metal halide and I prefer the looks but I don't want to give up quality. <I'd go with the HQI system but think you will be border line for keeping clams. If clams are desired I'd be looking at a 250 watt HQI, no need for any supplemental lighting.> The sump is a 20 gallon aquarium which will contain a micron bag and the original ETS Reef Devil powered by a Rio 2500 for filtration. I am considering switching to a ASM Mini skimmer because I don't want to overskim <No such thing as overskimming.> the system. I have also considered running the Reef Devil on a part time basis. What would you prefer here? <The ETS alone will be fine.> The final issue I would like some feedback on is the fish. I have a Marine Betta which I have had in FOWLR system for nine years. It will be transferred to the 58 gallon tank and it will be the showcase fish. I would also like to add a Sunburst Anthias, <Forget the Anthias, do best in groups and in much larger tanks.> Longnosed Hawk, Kole Tang, Yellow Clown Goby and a Neon Cleaner Goby. <Last two will be great snacks for the betta.> Do you think these fish will coexist peacefully? <No, and your tank is too small for keeping the fish you have in mind. The betta alone grows to 8", the Kole to 7", the Hawk to 5".> If I had to narrow the list I think I would opt to remove the Kole Tang or one or both of the gobies as I am worried they may become food for the Betta or Hawk but I am hoping you will bless the entire list. <No blessings here my friend. The betta needs to be in a tank by himself or with other fish munchers. Also does not like bright lighting. With the size tank you have I'd be looking at fish in the 2" to 4" range. Redo your list, good rule of thumb is one cubic inch of fish per five gallons of water.> Thanks in advance for any feedback you provide. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
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