Siphoning/Cleaning Marine Substrates - 04/26/06
I have been reading over emails for a while and I finally found what I was looking for, but not the complete answer.
<<Ok>>
I read that in a reef tank, if you have crushed coral then you should siphon during a water change.
<<Mmm, maybe...depending on depth of the substrate (<1")>>
If you have fine sand, you don't need to siphon.
<<More at play here than grain size/depth but generally yes, with good water flow the finer grain sands are lees likely to accumulate detritus>>
Well, we have a 72 gallon tank with 3.5 inches of an even mixture of sand and cc.
<<Mixed opinions on this...should be fine>>
Should we siphon and how deep?
<<I wouldn't disturb the DSB, but do some reading up on deep sand beds here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm).  If detritus settling in/on the substrate is of concern then "up" the flow in your tank to keep all in suspension>>
A greenish/brownish layer is starting to form about halfway down and I don't know if I should disturb it.
<<This is algae that is triggered by the available light coming through the tank front and likely does not extend very far in to the sand bed...nothing to worry about>>
Also, since I am here, I have 50 lbs of live rock in the tank.  I will be adding 50 more lbs that I have had in a separate tank for a month.  Is this going to change all of the parameters in the tank initially?  I just wanted to prepare myself before I see any spikes in my tests.
<<If the rock is fully cured it should not be a problem though having water handy for a water change after the move (disturbing/stirring detritus) is a good idea>>
Thanks,
Chris
<<Cheers, EricR>>

Moving Up To a Bigger Reef Tank - 04/22/06
Cool, thanks....
<<welcome>>
Also, I am going from a 55 to a 125 (toadstool leathers, open brain, closed brain, mushrooms, star polyps, a few fish, about 125 pounds of live rock in the 55 gal).
<<neat>>
My question is (probably from impatience) can I transfer everything from 55 to 125 (3-4" sand bed, all water etc.) and then top off the 125 without cycling (seems like it would be comparable to doing a 70% water change) or will this cause super stress on everything and kill most of it off?
<<While using the existing rock/water/substrate (and associated biota) from the current will likely "shorten" the cycle period, just the act of transferring same will cause some "die-off"...especially within the sand bed.  Because of this I would expect to cycle the new system>>
Better to be patient and cycle new tank with a couple pieces of live rock?
<<No, you can go ahead as you plan.  Of course this means you will need someone/someplace to keep the current livestock>>
If I cycle it, then how slow should I move all the stock and rock from the 55 over?
<<Mmm...as stated, just moving the rock/substrate will cause spikes/cycling to occur.  I think your best strategy is to house the livestock elsewhere temporarily (perhaps at your LFS), move everything else to the new tank, and let the 125 completely cycle (may only take a week or two) before introducing the livestock>>
Also sump, I'm using a 30 gal underneath the 125, I was thinking if coming
into the first chamber (housing an EV-180) keeping that at 9" then flowing
into the main chamber with about 3" fine aragonite (seeded from my 55)
keeping water level 7 1/2-9" and then flowing into the return area.
<<Sounds fine, though I would go with a full 6" of sand here for increased nitrification>>
I'll probably be pumping 1500 GPH through the sump, I'm assuming this is way too much for a refugium, so, would I be better off having the middle chamber as the return and the end opposite the skimmer a refugium (water about 14" deep) and feed it either with a small pump from the skimmer chamber or a T in one of the return lines?
<<Hmm, you don't want to make this more complicated than necessary.  The flow through the refugium is not an issue...I think the flow through the sump as a whole is though.  I think you will find that trying to push 1500 gallons through your sump (assuming your overflows can accommodate this much volume) will be very noisy and difficult to manage.  My recommendation would be to strive for about "half" that rate (even 350-400 gph would be fine here), and utilize other methods (a closed-loop perhaps) to increase flow within the tank>>
Thanks again, Mike
<<Always welcome, EricR>>

Siphoning...
TGIF once again Crew,
Assuming maybe Jen S. is still answering since I just got an email back from you.
<I'm still here... wish I was on a tropical island somewhere, but hey.  I have fun w/ this too!>
I just wanted to share something I do for siphoning water since reading that a lot of people use there mouths.
<Ick, not me... use an automatic syphon here.  I could never understand why people used to siphon gas tanks with their mouth either.  ick.>
I also use to do this but being paranoid I always thought "Hey is my mouth dry, arms a little shaky, little dizzy" so I
decided to figure out another way. Many may use this same technique but from
what I read a lot don't. Simply go to your local Wal-mart and buy a spare
power head or use one if you have access to it in your fishtank. Stick the
hose right in front of it and  pump enough water to start the flow take away and your siphon has started.
<Very cool!>
  Figured I would share this with people that may need a solution to using there mouth. Since finding out about palytoxin today and realizing
there is a lot of dangerous stuff in there I am sure to be A LOT more careful in future handling of my aquarium.
<Hahaha, yes you should!  Don't want to inhale something that might bite, right?>
Thanks for the time,
Homerj
<No, thank you for sharing!  Excellent.  Have a great night!  Jen S.>

New Marine Tank……..and Schedule    4/16/06
Dear Crew,
<Hey Jeff.>
I have just set up my 210 gal tank with 150lbs of live rock, with 2 mud refugiums.
<Sounds neat.>
Pumps are running.
<Cool.>
I don't intend to add my fish for at least a month.
<The more patient you are the better for a marine tank for this size I would give it at least 6 to 8 weeks, maybe longer if the rock in uncured…..and of course the fish (any livestock actually) will need to be quarantined before addition to the display.>
I do intend to add a cleaning crew within the next 2 weeks along with another 50lbs of live rock.  
<Add the rock first, do not add any livestock until tank has completed nitrogen cycle and livestock has gone through a minimum 30 day quarantine period.>
In the meantime should I be using Chemipure or any other carbon?
<No I would just utilize the LR, your protein skimmer and partial water changes at the moment.>
Should I wait until the other animals are introduced?  
<Or until the need arises, if the tank is stable why utilize chemicals at all?>
Thank you for your great advice,
<Anytime.>
Jeff
<Adam J.>

Reef maint.   4/1/06
Whew...my eyes are tearing due to the plethora of information on nitrates here! I have a 55 gal reef that has been a fish only for 2 years. Over the past year I have slowly added some live rock. The most recent being 15lbs to total 50 lbs. The substrate is aragonite sand 2" deep. Before I added the final 15lbs of LR, my readings were all tolerable. Now the nitrate is 80. now, I have a prism skimmer (looking to upgrade),<A more efficient skimmer will help.> magnum 350 with Purigen and De-Nitrate, an Emperor 400 w/standard pads and De-Nitrate. I have read on here that the mechanical filtration I am running may be the cause of my nitrate problem. Is this true? <It can if filter pads are not cleaned/replaced on a weekly basis.> I have cleaned the bio-wheels on the Emperor, (again at the advice of many readers). I also have an enumerate amount of bubbles on the walls, rocks heater, etc. I once again read that this is the de-nitrification process working?  <Sounds more like hydrogen sulphide gas working.  Do you vacuum your substrate during water changes to remove excess detritus?>  I do a 5 gallon water change every week with RO water and Oceanic salt. What course of action should I take? Should I remove the 350 and the Emperor? <Consider a hang on refugium rather than the Emperor.  With Chaeto or Caulerpa growing in the refugium, it becomes a very good exporter of nitrates.  Miracle Mud or a similar substrate can be placed in the refugium for added support and a place for the Caulerpa to root.>  If so how and what should I look for to make sure it's not a counter productive effort?
Do try the refugium, it does work.>
Thanks again.  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jay W. Thom

Brains, Angels, Lights and Stonies……the variety query  - 03/29/2006
This is a follow up to a previous question that was replied to by Adam J.,
<You rang……it’s me.>
but I would happily accept a response from any of you wise and charitable guys AND gals.
The original correspondence is posted below.
<Okay.>
The open brain mentioned in the previous email below finally died.
<Sorry to hear that.>
I did not leave him in the tank to see if he would bud as suggested by Anthony because he was so sad looking.  
<Okay.>
What I DID do however was to read on WWM and tried placing him in the refugium for a while but it was too late.
<Ditto on the “sorry” comment.>
He never did expand or feed.  After waiting 4 months, I purchased another open brain.
This one looked great for the first four days, inflating much larger in my aquarium than at the LFS. On day five, the brain did not inflate and over the next week, became more and more skeletal with the skeleton showing in many places. It looked as bad as any of the sick open brain coral pictures posted in your archives.  Taking a hint from a FAQ where someone's Lemonpeel Angel was nipping at an Open Brain, I watched my Flame for several hours one day.  I observed him "hit" the brain 28 times during a single one hour period.
<Good detective work…my dad would be proud.>
I immediately moved the brain to the refugium and set a trap for the Flame.
<Good.>
The brain looked much better the next day and I was even able to feed him.  
<Great.>
Four days later he was back to normal and back in the main tank (without the Flame).  It took three days but I DID manage to trap and remove the Flame.
<I would like to remove mine in my 170 gal….not looking forward to that.>
Next question if you please. Adam said that with my 4X96 watt PC setup I should be able to keep some SPS corals such as Montipora.
<Mmm…..sorry for not remembering, (lots of queries) but I don’t remember what your tank size and depth was….>
  I bought a plating Montipora (Montipora verrucosa, I believe) and have not had much luck with it.
<IT is sensitive to high nutrient levels and encroachment from neighboring corals.>
  It had a pale yellow body with violet polyps at the store but I have yet to see the polyps in my tank (2 months). I was just wondering if
there was a specific type of Montipora that I would have better luck with considering my setup.
<I would try the old common M. Cap or possibly a Turbinaria.>
Once again, thank you for your time, dedication, knowledge, and willingness to help us budding aquarists.  Maybe one day I will have enough knowledge to lend a hand and help with the burden.
<That would be great, keep reading, researching and gaining experience and I am sure one day you can.>
The only bad thing about the wealth of information located here is that is serves as a reminder of all of the
stupid things I did and didn't do and all of the livestock that suffered before I found this great asset.
<I’d be lying (and so would the rest of the crew) if we said we we’re perfect aquarists…sometimes expert or experienced just means you have made more mistakes than everyone else, hehe.> <<Amen, and hopefully learned by them. RMF>>
Thanks again,
<Anytime.>
Mike

Stocking, Compatibility, Suitability - 03/28/06
We would like to add a Blue Hippo Tang to our tank.
<<Mmm...a large tank I hope...>>
We have been waiting for months to get a good specimen.
<<Wise>>
Our LFS has 2 that have been eating well for 2 weeks and the LFS will keep them another week before selling them.  One is large around 5 inches and the other is smaller 3 inches.  The fish we have are listed in the order they were added to the tank. 2 clowns (1.5in), Tennent Tang (5.5in), female Blue-throat trigger (7in); Niger trigger (2in), Flag Fin Angel (2.5in), Flame Angel (2in), and male Blue-throat trigger 4in).  We also have 3 XL cleaner shrimp, 1 bubble-tip anemone, 1 Ritteri anemone, pulsing xenia, 150+ hermit crabs, 25 super Nassarius snails, 10 Pacific conch, 26 Zebra turbo snails, 1 purple impact urchin<<neat!>>, 2 tiger tail sea cucumbers, 2 sand-sifting stars, 3 Burgundy stars, and 5 large brittle stars.  Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 15ppm,
<<You should work on bringing this down.>>
salinity 1.025, temp 76 - 82, pH 8.2.  The 800 watts of metal halides are wreaking havoc on temp.  We may have to buy a chiller or redesign our hood.
<<Or bump up the heaters so the temp doesn't fall below 79/80...82 isn't all that bad.  My tank reaches 82 degrees every day during the summer months, and here in SC that's the bigger part of the year.  You could also employ small fans to blow across the surface of the water to help with evaporative cooling.>>
Which size blue hippo would be the better choice?.
<<How big is your tank?  With two anemones (and especially with the Ritteri) you need to be very mindful of water quality...much more so than if this were just a FOWLR setup.>>
Our Tennent tang can be a bit pushy.
<<Indeed...and at 5.5" I think you will have a tough time adding another tang unless this tank is VERY large.>>
The only problem we had was when we introduced the male blue-throat into the tank.  The female did not like him and would click
at him and bite him.  He did manage to survive the attack and now everyone seems to tolerate each other.
<<I think you were lucky...these triggers are best ordered/introduced as a pair...I'm glad it worked out for you/him.>>
That was about 4 weeks ago.  We have an in tank refugium that we purchased after the problems with the triggers.  We figure the Blue Tang will live in there for a while.  Our tank is a 200-gallon FOWLR and several inverts.
<<Mmm, no...not in my opinion.  The presence of the anemones in this tank means it doesn't fall under the same care guidelines as a FOWLR and needs to be geared more toward the needs of the anemones.  You will need to maintain much lower nitrate levels/better water quality all 'round than you presently have/would need to if this were a true FOWLR.  You will also be more limited on your fish selections because of the presence of the anemones.  I'll be surprised if the Flagfin doesn't become a problem as it matures.>>
We have a Tunze filtration system with a Tunze Protein skimmer on the rail system.
<<good stuff>>
Tank has been up and running since October 2005.  We have a DSB 4-5" Oolitic Aragamax.  Total of 180lbs of rock only about 75lbs being good live rock.  The other was live rock but had been sitting outside for 6 months after the previous owner tore down his tank.  Do we have enough room to eventually add 2 (male & female) Bimaculatus Anthias and a green mandarin (when our tank & live rock mature)?
<<All things considered (system size/occupants), I think you're better off passing on the Hippo tang.  I think the Bi-Color Anthias are a good choice, I would even recommend you add a trio of females with the male (allows a more natural "pecking order" and will give the females a better chance/rest than having a single female for the male to constantly harass).   As for the Mandarin, you (it) might have a chance with a mature sand bed/rock in this size system...though I would prefer to see the addition of a large external downstream refugium for it and the anemone's sake.>>
Thank you for your help.
Jeri
<<Happy to assist.  Regards, EricR>>

Stocking, Compatibility, Suitability II - 03/28/06
What is the best way to bring the nitrates down? I was hoping that the DSB would help in that arena.
<<And it should...there are several methods/ways to address nitrates...do have a look through our FAQs re.  Here's a good starting point, be sure to look among the indices in blue at the top of the page as well:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm >>
The way the tank is designed we don't have an easy way to add an external refugium.
<<?>>
I will try to find a way.
<<Will reap benefits if it can be done.>>
We have 2 fans in the hood made by Ice Cap to help with the temperature.  We will try your suggestion of the higher temp. setting on the heater.
<<Ah, good...as you are aware, stability is 'key'.>>
You mention that the Flagfin may pose a problem in the future.  In what way?  With other fish or the anemones?
<<With the anemones, other sessile inverts you may decide to add.  All may be fine now, but this fish can do some serious damage if it decides to.>>
How large does the Flag Fin get?  I was told 6" but I
read they can grow to 10".
<<Indeed...expect it to reach somewhere in the middle here (8"-9")
We will take your advice on the multiple female Anthias to the one male.
<<Excellent>>
We really want the Hippo tang.
<<Mmm...figured as much...>>
We have been waiting for over a year.  If we did decide to go ahead and get the Hippo (against your better judgment) what size
would stand a chance in our system?
<<Something in the 3"-5" range to start (so either of the two you've been watching will do), but be aware this tang gets to 12" and is very robust and active.  As much as physical limitations, it has become my opinion that this specie of tang fares worse "psychologically" than most, even when kept in "large" home aquariums.>>
I am also considering taking out one or two fish to put into
another tank that we have cycling with Live Rock, a 180 gallon.  I would like the tangs to live together though.
<<Understood...perhaps you could move the anemones instead, and set them up as a specie tank...and then add a fluidized-bed filter to your FOWLR to help cope with the heavy bio-load.>>
Thanks again, Jeri
<<Regards, EricR>>

Reef Systems/Maintenance  - 03/25/2006
Hello, <Hi Alex>
  I just turned a 55 gal FOWLR tank to a reef tank! I took two fish out and left my yellow tang, royal Gramma, six line, and two clown fish! Better pic's for a reef. I know  that on a reef tank the right nitrate should read 0 ppm.  What would be the correct and safe reading for a tank with fish and corals??? <A reading of 10ppm or lower would be ideal.  James (Salty Dog)>

Tank Setup - Slate Over Live Rock? - 03/13/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I have been addicted to saltwater aquariums for a little over year now.
<<Mmm...about 30 for me...>>
I have spent countless hours reading the wealth of knowledge on your site and thank you for your always speedy response to questions.
<<Hee!  And sometimes not so speedy!>>
Your site has been a great source of information and inspiration.
<<Excellent...very good to hear...a collaborative effort.>>
My current setup is a 75 gallon aquarium with 80lbs of live rock and 100lbs of sand (was purchased as "dead" dry sand, not sure how live it would be now).
<<Depends on how long it has been in the system...will become more "live" every day.>>
I am using a Magnum 350 Pro canister filter and a very basic air
stone protein skimmer; it's a simple combo but it works great.
<<Can "make do", yes.>>
For lighting I have 2 VHO bulbs - one is a 10,000K the other is an actinic.  For livestock I have a pair of clowns, a yellow tang, diamond goby, bicolor blenny and a flame hawk.  My clowns have been living quite happily in a pink long-tentacle anemone for about 8 months.
<<Mmm, anemone eh...I suggest you exchange the actinic bulb for another 10K, or better yet, add two more 10K VHO bulbs to the existing setup.>>
I also have Goniopora (which I have had for a year and is doing quite wonderful)
<<Must admit, I find this surprising...most don't last more than a few months.>>
as well as a small piece of rock with some polyps on it - that I have been hoping would spread but nothing yet.  
<<May be related to the lighting.>>
I have decided to set up another tank.  I have purchased a 46 gallon bow front that I am hoping to turn into a FO system.
<<Cool!>>
I bought a Filstar Rena XP2 and filled one compartment with Eheim's Substrat PRO for biological filtration and am using the media that came with the filter for mechanical and chemical filtration.
<<This can work, but you may find you need more efficient biological filtration...a small fluidized-bed filter will serve you well here.>>
I have a Coralife double-bulb T-5 fixture that will provide 21w of 10,000k and 21w of actinic light.  Here are my questions:  If I hook up my new filter and run it along side my existing set up on
my 75 gallon tank, how long until the filter is seeded with bacteria?
<<Will begin very quickly...likely useable within a matter of days.>>
And I want to aquascape using CaribSea's aragonite and some crushed
coral and slate for rockwork.
<<A few pieces of live rock will work much better/be more natural/provide additional bio-filtration, foodstuffs.>>
I know that slate is an inert rock but I just want to make sure that adding around 50lbs of slate won't hurt anything.
<<I don't recommend this...some possibility contamination (metals) from the slate...much better to use marine-based product/rock.>>
I wasn't planning on adding any live rock...
<<A shame...>>
Will my filter and substrate provide adequate biological filtration?
<<Is possible, yes...depending on stocking levels, maintenance, etc..  But I think you are short-changing yourself/your tank.>>
Thank you,
Sara Kinnear
<<Anytime Sarah...Regards, EricR>>

Re: Canister vs. Refugium...And Winna' by TKO in the First round is - 03/11/2006
Thanks Josh.
<Gladly, Joe.>
I do have a small amount of LR and am looking to put in quite a bit more, although I am limited given that I want to leave quite a bit of space for a shark and a ray in the main display.
<Hmm...already too small IMO. 850 litres right? Just under 200 gal.? Not enough for these.>
I am thinking of placing LR in my sump...although I'm not sure if it will "stay alive" without a dedicated light?
<Common practice really. Just read up. You'll soon know what your best options are. - Josh>  

High Calcium and Nitrates in a Reef Tank - 3/8/2006
Hello,
<<Hello Adrian.>>
HELP!  I'm facing few problems with my saltwater reef-fish 55-galon tank.  
1) High calcium level.  It's ~600.  I tried the baking soda method but no help.  I used the red sea and another brand of test kit to test the calcium level and both yield similar result.
<<What salt mix do you use? Are you adding calcium?  Try doing several water changes using Instant Ocean, or another high-quality salt mix.>>
2) High nitrate.  It's ~100.  I already reduced the quantity of food.  Hopefully that will bring it down.  Do you know any other quicker way?  I'm already changing 15-20% of water biweekly.
<<Test your source water.  If it has low/no nitrates, change the water more often to bring it down.  Also, look into refugiums, covered on WWM.>>
3) Red algae on rocks.  I see patches of red algae everywhere sometimes even on the sand.  See attachment.  I read articles on your site and the algae sounds like bacteria.
<<Likely Cyanobacteria/BGA.>>
Hopefully reducing the quantity of food will minimize or get rid of this problem.  Do you know any other way?
<<Physical removal, limiting nutrients through food, and adding a refugium are a few that come to mind.  Read on WWM.>>
4) Hair-like plant/things on rocks.  See attachment.  The plant is few millimeter long, yellowish/beige.  What's it?  And how to get rid of it?
<<Your picture is unclear.>>
I checked the water condition:
Ph 8.0-8.3
Nitrite, 0
Ammonia, 0
Alkalinity, high (good according to the kit)
Specific gravity, 1.024
Temp, 77 degree
Nitrate, ~100
Calcium, ~600
Thanks,
Adrian
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Some Needed Advice, Tank Set-Up Really - 03/09/2006
Hey! I have just found your website and think it is great!
<We're glad you like it.>
It has answered many questions I had.
<Rats! We've only ever meant to confound others and sound pious!;)>
I have had several Fresh water aquariums and have changed over my 75 gal to a saltwater aquarium about 3 years ago. I set it
up in a room that I thought it would stay there for a while but we decided to have a baby.
<Another baby you mean:)>
So we decided to move it out of that room and into the entry way.  Well to make a long story short we were not able to move it for
several reasons, so it just sat there running with nothing but LR I did not want to get something started then have to move it.
<Hmm...sounds like it was already started.>
I was able to move it about 2 months ago thanks to Hurricane Rita.
<With all things, a blessing I suppose.>
The water is still the same water I originally had in the tank and there was about 50# of LR. After moving it I decided to make it a reef tank. I have since added about 70 more pounds of LR a total of about 120#s and using crushed coral for the floor, well I added crush coral over the top of some other stuff that was suggested
by they guy that re did my tank. Really do not know what it was but it looked like white rocks you would use for a fresh water AQ.
<?>
A Clown fish and Damsel were given to me so I could make sure my water was doing ok.
<After cycle, right?>
I have added 4 turbo snails, 5 Queen Conch snails,
<Five Queens? In a 75? You know they get big, right? And prefer sand?>
1 Jaw fish,
<Hmm...should be on fine sand.>
4 Green Chromis. Everything has survived so far. I know that the damsels will have to go when I get my system the way I want it.  Actually the blue damsel I have has to go now because she thinks she owns the entire reef. Right now there is no ammonia, nitrates are about 5, no nitrites, Ph is a little low 7.8, and salinity was
low. I have increased my salinity today and my LFS guy said the Ph should rise.
<Not because of salinity. The salt mix itself may in fact raise, yes. But will it stay there?>
I am using a trickle filter with a sump. And today I just hooked up
my Magnum 350 with a micro filter.
<Don't need this, but fine. Just keep it clean.>
I do not have a Protein skimmer and know I need to buy one and plan to. But after reading the info on this site I
may just use an eco filter, no protein skimmer but keep using my magnum.
<I'd get rid of the Magnum and get the skimmer, pronto.>
What do ya'll (yes I am from the South)
<As am I. I live in GA. and still don't write it though;) By the way, shouldn't it actually be "y'all" as a contraction of you all?>
think would be the best way to go?
<Only what I've stated.>
And I am about to invest in the proper lighting, a Corallife Pro with H lights, etc.
<Proper lighting for? Be sure you have "proper lighting" before you buy anything photosynthetic. Look at watts, color temp., etc.>
Right now I am just anxious but know I need to be patient.
<Come on now...we're in the South. S-l-o-w it d-o-w-n. Feels good huh? Just watch your step, study...the rest is easy.>
Please give me yours suggestions and things I ought to be doing and may need to add to my system. Thanks! Sorry I wrote a book.  Steve
<No worries Steve. With more studying, less of letting others do it for you, you'll be fine. Oh, and fire the guy that put five Queens in a 75, sheesh. Plan for the long haul. - Josh>

Re: hi alk and hi calcium  - 03/05/06
Bob-thanks for the reply.  Other comments/questions in bold below.
> Hi-
> <High>
> I have a 109 gallon reef tank with many mushrooms, SPS corrals,
> <Yee hah! Head 'em up little doggies!>
>  two clowns, two wrasses, a large anemone and lots of reef janitors.
> <Union or no?>
no-don't believe in unions
<<Ahh! We are in agreement here. I also believe that unions, religions and anachronistic standing militaries have outlived their usefulness>>
>  It is an established tank (over 2 years).  Everything is doing fine, but I notice limited growth in coralline and all corals. I had a smaller tank previously with no substrate and always had issues maintaining alk, ph and calcium levels but had extensive coralline and coral growth so I talked with many experienced aquarists and they recommended a plenum system for my new tank in order to help maintain ionic balance.
> <... Mmm, better to go with no substrate rather- guess i got bad advice but many others use them with success.  if i take some out would this help?
<<... likely so. Please see WWM re>>
>  Since I had the plenum all tests have been relatively normal as you will see below except my alk is always hi at 18dkh plus and the calcium is always around 480-500.  
> <... define normal>stable readings
> I read all of your articles and summarized that not too many aquarists have this issue and have not had the "snowfall" issue that some others had.  Here are my readings. 18 dKH, calcium 500ppm, phosphates have always been hi-over 5mg/l, salinity at 1.021,
> <... should be near/er 1.025>why so high?  all other advice i read/receive says 1.19-1.22
<<Also posted... please, PLEASE learn to/use the Google search tool, the indices on WWM>>
>  Ph is 8.4 during day and 8.3 at night, ammonia and nitrite are zero, non chelated iron is zero, chelated is also around zero but I have been adding iron weekly so I am thinking my test kit is too old. Nitrate is around 40ppm
> <Way too high>lowering just with water changes-right?
<<No....>>
> and the r/o water is at 10ppm
> <Your unit needs maintenance, cartridge replacement>i will
> (but I use Seachem Prime to detoxify).  All of my other test kits are new (Salifert test kits for alk, ph and calcium) if i use Prime do i really have to worry about nitrate though?
> I noticed that since the alk and calcium were hi the amount of skimming debris has been reduced.  
> <Ahh! Yes>
> I use a Rena Filstar Xp3 canister filter, a sand bed filter hang on filter, 2x250 metal halide lights with two Marine-Glo actinics, an Aquarium systems hang on protein skimmer and two powerheads on a aquarium systems wave timer.  I use a five stage r/o system and the water alk level tested from it is 2.6dkh
> <What should this be?>i don't know-think this is low so trying to say that it can't be the water source for hi alk
<<Is a contributing cause. Should be zip out of your/an R.O. device that's functioning>>
>  with a ph of 7.0. I have little algae growth (coralline or green/red) and the only additives I have been using to try and increase coralline algae growth is Purple Up from CaribSea and Kent Marine Iron/Manganese. Other additives are Seachem Prime (only with water changes), Red sea Salt (again only with water changes) and Wardley's sodium biphosphate
> <... not a good idea... among other things, a source of your phosphate...>not using it anymore but didn't know how else to bring down alk
<<... see... WWM... re>>
>  to lower ph/alk.  The hi calcium levels spike when I use Purple Up but otherwise maintain at 500ppm. I perform a 5 gallon water change every 3-4 weeks and change filter media every 2 months. With my old system (without plenum) I would have to change 20-25% water every week and dose heavily with calcium and buffers to keep my ph, alk and calcium normal.  I have been told by other aquarists to not change the water as frequently and this will lower my alk/calcium levels, but this is not the case-I actually find my ph and alk with rise while calcium stays the same. The only answers I can think of is either my liverock, base rock (I have over 200lbs) or the substrate of over 2" thick of crushed coral maybe producing the hi levels of alk and calcium and therefore may have to be reduced or start with more water changes and or adding Wardley's sodium biphosphate.  In the past I tried this but had only a temporary reduction in alk.  What about using acid or vinegar?  What are the dangers of this? Does coralline algae grow better in lower alkalinity tanks? I was hoping there would be a safe additive that I could use-can you help?
> thanks in advance,
> Al Standaert
> <Where to start here? You have a sort of "Dead Sea" effect going with the mix of chemical species present... If this were our only correspondence, I'd encourage you to re-read what books you have, worthwhile (accurate, significant, meaningful) parts of the Net... on marine water chemistry en toto... You can/could do a few things... but don't know you well enough to gauge whether you have the wherewithal to look into (sufficiently), stick with a given plan... I'll grant you a clue though: Simply adding more of anything won't help you here. What do you want to do... change out the substrate (entirely or almost), large consecutive water changes to get you (back) to somewhere you can grow corallines? Read and think this over... Bob Fenner>
I'll start with the water changes but thought that reefs feed or use up buffers so the alk/ph would naturally lower then that would be the way i would indicate when to perform water changes.  everyone else i have spoken with is confused and everything i have read states the opposite should happen where aquarists struggle to keep the alk/ph high.  overall i have been told that having hi alk/ph is not something to worry about.  don't think my tank is a Dead Sea yet since everything (except corallines) is growing albeit slowly. your right-i have a hard time sticking with a plan since i have had bad advice in the past and have had to deviate from plan so that is why i am trying your site-have heard good things from others and have so much invested now don't want to discontinue.
Hope to hear from you again.
thanks,
Al Standaert
<<Read my friend... your answers and their rationale are all posted... on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Talkin' bout my setup... pent. with three acanthurids   2/26/06
Hi all.  I love your site and appreciate all the help you do for me and everybody else.  I just want to run my setup by you because my Hippo tang
has been rubbing on the rocks and I just see want to see what I can do to make a better life for my fish.  I have a 60 gal. corner tank that’s 2’ x 2’
  x 2’with the front corner knocked off that has  been running for 2 years (I have had it for one).  So it is diamond shaped when viewed from above. It is
a reef tank. With Florida live rock.   I’m not sure of the exact weight of my live rock but it takes up 1/3 of the volume of the tank. There is an
under gravel filter with 2 risers coming up I’m scared to take out    The fish are:
1 - 2” Yellow tang
1 -2.5” Hawkfish
1 -2.5 Blue damsel
1 -1.5” Clarkia clown
1 -1.5” Hippo tang (I got a month ago)
1 - 3” Naso tang (i got 5 days ago)
<... this last is not suitable for this sized, shaped system... Even the other two acanthurids can become problematical here>
Inverts are
Fire shrimp
Brittle star
Astrea snails
Blue leg hermits
There are a Hammer coral ( that is 8 inches from the light) and Green Button polyps and some Pink Xenia.
I have an Aqua-c Remora skimmer with the Maxijet 1200 power head.  A Jebo 110w pc light. With an actinic and regular bulb in there.  An over flow box
going down to my sump with a 2 month old, Bob Goemans style plenum sump.   Built exactly to his specifications.  With Chaeto macro algae. How long
should I run the light for on the sump?
<Ten, twelve hours... have it overlap your main tank>
Will my  Wal  Mart light strip work?  
<Yes>
I run my PhosGuard in there too. I have a canister filter with the unbleached cotton fabric inside that I use to just to filter the water.  I
clean the filter every week.  I have a Jebo 300 w heater.  I had a problem with micro bubbles so I built a bubble trap in the tank. Inside the bubble
trap is some Caulerpa prolifera. For circulation I have a small power head that pumps around 250 gph.
Water parameters are: (tested with red sea kit)
Sal. .023
Temp 82
Ph 8.0
Alk  says high?
<Hello back to it>
No3 2.5 ppm
No2 .025
Amm. 0
Po4 1 ppm (down from 2. am working on that)
<Good>
Cal.460
I was using the Calmax by WM research 2 part cal/alk buffer till it ran out.   I just got the Sea Chem Reef complete , calcium ,plus, builder this week
and did my first dose of those, to their specifications.  Am trying to get my already growing coralline algae to grow faster. I do 5 gal. a week water
changes and I vacuum the gravel with water changes too. i use a heater to make up my water and i aerate the tap water for 24 hours. then i use Sea
Buffer from Aquarium systems to raise the ph and i use Instant Ocean salt. There is not any algae problems. Just some coralline algae and light, dark
green algae on the glass that my sponge scrubber wont get off.  Is the razor scraper ok to use on the glass?
<Yes... all but the Naso being there is okay to mighty fine... the Paracanthurus will scratch a bit (it's their nature)... I would trade out the Naso. Bob Fenner>

Tank Critique   2/24/06
Hello.
<Hi Christopher - Tim answering your question today.>
I've been enjoying the marine hobby for about a decade now but my wife and I got serious about it about 3 years ago and have been  
having a blast ever since. We outgrew our 55 and are now just breaking in a new 150 gal.
I've been reading avidly here for years <Excellent!>; always finding contrasting  
opinions of course <Ah yes, the beauty of this hobby - a "best way" of doing something is the exception rather than the norm!>. Our new setup is now a month old. Things seem  
pretty stable. <Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels I assume?> The green algae has made a sort of worrisome foothold  
but it's manageable. (i.e. I've seen a LOT worse back in the  
day. Glass and water are clear. Rock is getting furry though. <Within reason, this is to be expected during the cycling of a new tank>
I would just like to put out the open question; "What might I do differently?"
<Have a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm for plenty of useful information. You will want to keep your nitrates and phosphates at a minimum as these are fundamental to the growth of algae, with nitrates being a particular problem due to the feeding habits of your tank inhabitants. Frequent water changes will help keep these under control, although with a system of your size you may want to consider using reactors or additives to keep these chemicals within limits. Depending on your preferences you can also consider reducing the photoperiod (that is the time that the aquarium lights are on) to reduce photosynthesis. Also consider using reverse osmosis water for your water changes as tap water may frequently contain nitrates and phosphates, limiting the usefulness of water changes.>
I intend to maintain this as a standard FOWLR.
Current residents: 2 puffers, 1 trigger, 4 - old - damsels and a snowflake moray. Yes it's lightly populated but I've done the  
homework - and the math. I intend to put in the time to keep each one of these guys around for a long time so they will be more than enough in the long run.
• We've got about a hundred lbs of live rock. A dozen (?) hermits of  various size. That's it.
The hardware is as follows.
• 150 gal with dual glass overflows in the rear. These are 70% full, with a great pair of home hardware $1.99 Dursos. (What a cool invention...)
• Standard 50 gallon sump; low partition with (20lbs) travertine below <Interesting choice - and not one commonly made to my knowledge.>
the returns.
• Coralife SuperSkimmer 3004 in sump on the other side.
• Powered by 2 QuietOne 4000s - This gives me 2000 gph throughput.
• Fluval 4000 canister. Currently using all 8 compartments just with the included media - 4 x carbon and 4xBioMax balls. *This is  
something I expect to spend some time tweaking. <You probably will not even need this with your sump; consider gradually removing the media and maintaining only for water circulation / chemical filtration as you otherwise risk creating a nitrate factory - that will further fuel your algae blooms!>
That's it.
It's all running nicely right now but - I'm not sure if I'm right here - it IS from a mature system so I have a fair bit of bio  
activity. Yet it is 200+ gal total volume so I imagine the old live rock needs to adapt to different dynamics <The level of bacteria on/within your liverock is dependant on the chemical composition of your water such as DOCs, not water volume. Depending on the stocking levels in your 55G I would actually expect a decrease in bacteria.> and yes, the filtration  
gear is  all 'out of the box new; as is the travertine. So I expect a startup cycle, but seeded as it is, hopefully a mild one.
Have fun with this. Any good suggestions would be appreciated and, frankly - will be implemented.

Re: Tank Critique  - 02/25/06
Hello Tim
<Hi Christopher!>
Thanks for the excellent reply. <Thank you for the excellent questions - I am sure plenty of people will face comparable problems and learn from your experience!> Back to you if you don't mind. <It would be my pleasure!>
Yes - Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are fine <Great to hear!> and thank you for confirming that even an 'old tank transported to a 5x volume has a significant cycle.
A few specific details to you regarding your suggestions.
• As you suggested, regarding "reactors or additives".  Two things I don't have any hands-on with: - any specific products you have had  
success with would be appreciated.  If you could provide a few names I'll do the research.
<With regard to the phosphates, I have heard good things about Rowaphos, with feedback being generally very positive. You can use this in any standard reactor - the idea is that the reactor will keep the medium in suspension (floating) thereby maximizing the surface area as compared to the lumps one would otherwise expect. Avoiding the cost of a reactor, you could simply use it in either sponge form or with the supplied net within one of the compartments in your canister filter. As concerns the nitrates, I must admit that my experience in this regard is limited as I have hitherto controlled these through simple water changes. Do have a look through the WWM website for relevant information. One further note is that the reactors tend to be sturdy objects with only limited wear and tear, therefore making these ideal bargains on eBay - be sure to have a look!>
• This is a left field question, but I know a lot of people swear by their 'cleaner crews': Since our passion is for puffers and triggers  
etc. that love to eat inverts, I've really ignored shrimp/snails/etc. <Would agree with you.>  
I've got a big sump though  - and 2 big overflows. Sounds a bit odd  
to me, but is populating any of them an idea worth trying?? <Not unless you have a DSB in your sump / refugium. Except for the aforesaid scenario, they will really not offer any benefits within a sump and would probably not survive in the actual overflow.>
• I'm pretty familiar with the notion of canisters being 'Nitrate Factories.' It's funny, I just got the Fluval today because as we've  
discussed it's all about opinion: I have read a thousand articles about this and nothing is definitive. For me, it's go with your Own  
experience <Past experience does tend to be the best guide... good experience anyways! (Then again, bad may be just as useful. It's late here in London)> - and despite a lot of rolled eyes etc. over the years, I swear the Aquaclear 550 hang on my marine tank *Running Charcoal only* has saved a number of lives over the years.
So I want to hang onto the Fluval at least as a test. can you suggest any media / practices that will help to avoid nitrate escalation? <As with your Aquaclear it will be helpful to use the canister primarily for chemical filtration, such as carbon or Rowaphos. Do not to use sponges except where necessary and then rinse these in aquarium water (in a bucket, not within the actual aquarium) on a weekly basis or in any case no less than every two weeks. >
THX Again,
<Best of luck with your new aquarium!>
C.

Moving Tank   2/24/06
Hi Crew, <Hi Sam>
I am going to be moving a couple blocks in a couple weeks. Being that all I have is a 10 gallon tank, with some fish and mushrooms, it should be
simple. I already have a new 10 gallon running (2 months) with live sand and rock. My plan is to move the new tank first and have it run a few days
before I put my fish and mushrooms into it. I will then close down the old tank. Does it make any sense to try to salvage some of the 'unseen' life
that exists in the old tank? There are so many different threadlike worms that can be seen from time to time and who knows what else. If it is
worthwhile, do you have any suggestions on how?
<Sam, read here first, should be able to answer your questions, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/movingtkho.htm if not, email back.  James (Salty Dog)>

Reef maint. mainly - 02/23/2006
Hi
<Hello John. Sorry for the delay.>
I recently had a serious problem w/ my aquarium. The filter leaked and there was no filtration for about 14 hours before I could get a replacement.
<Only without the mechanical filter? Not the end of the world.>
Everything has been up and running now for about 8 hours w/ the new filter. During the time that there was no filtration, I only used an airstone to support the fish.
<Hmm...was this a sump failure? If that's the case, how was the tank heated/circulated? Nothing running but the airstone?>
My Anenome moved during this time. The bulb Anenome now is closed and looks like it has been shrunken down about 60%. Lights are back on,
<Ok...lights were out also?>
I have fresh carbon in the new filter, and a Rio for increased circulation. The water is very cloudy also. Why is my Anenome like this?
<Is stressed/miserable.>
Will it be O.K.?
<Quite likely, provided suitable conditions are restored/maintained. Don't panic yet.>
Thanks-
<You're welcome.>
PS- Will the tank have ammonia problems since the old original filter had all the original cycling bacteria?
<The bacteria lives all throughout the system.>
I only saved a piece of filter wool from the old filter, kept it moist, and put it in the new filter.
<I'd remove this little piece.>
I also have 20 pounds of LR but no live sand.
<If you have substrate, it is quite "live" after eight months. If you don't, I'd get some. - Josh>

Reef Maint. mostly  2/23/06
Hello,
<Hi Justina! My name is Tim – I will be answering your questions today.>
I have a 40 gallon tank with 20lbs of live rock, two citron goby's,
Hippo tang <Please be aware that a 40G tank is too small for this fish>, sea urchin, pacific shrimp, mushrooms, polyps, bubble coral and
feather duster.  Nitrates 5, calcium 350 (always having a hard time reaching 400), ph 8.2, salinity 1.024, Eheim pro II filter, two 50/50 white/actinic
96 watt 10,000K, protein skimmer.  I have several questions so I thought I would just send them in one email - hope that is ok...
1. The Eheim filter: do I change the media and if so how often? Do I clean it - I have read conflicting sources about rinsing the canister.
<Canister filters are widely regarded as 'nitrate factories'; if you do use one then I would recommend cleaning the media on a weekly basis or at least every 2 weeks. Use a bucket filled with water from the aquarium to clean the media, thereby ensuring that you retain the beneficial bacteria living on the media. In terms of actually replacing the media, this will depend on the type and can range between 1 month for carbon to no more than 6 months for inert sponges.>
2. Should I vacuum the top of the sand bed (it is about 3" deep)?  Also the
sand bed is composed of medium sized aragonite - how often should I add more?
<You should vacuum the top of the sand bed as part of your standard cleaning routine, whenever you make a water change. Aragonite has a long life, and will typically not need addition for several years - although this may depend on your local water quality and tank inhabitants.>
3. I was wondering if u could id the brown anemone? see pictures attached
<I'm sorry to say that there was no picture attached - at least not that I received.>
4. Several weeks ago this brown fuzz (very tiny) started growing on my rock, when frightened they retract into their tubes.  These tubes have started
spreading - what are they? <Without a picture, I can only assume these to be small feather duster worms.> In the picture they are circled in red, the
yellow is an Aiptasia that needs to go.  I have found Joe's juice to be great on individuals however more just keep popping up in different areas - would
the pacific cleaner get along with a peppermint shrimp (who could eat the Aiptasia)?
<This may present a problem. Consider adding some red-legged hermit crabs with regard to the Aiptasia instead.>
5. I would like to get Acropora for the citron gobies - how would it do with the other corals?
<This should be fine. Ensure that you can provide adequate space between corals.>
6. How do I know when I have the right amount of water movement/flow/circulation?
<You should aim for around 6 - 10 times the water volume per hour.>
Thank you so much for your site it is a wonderful resource!!!
Justina

Reef and Discus questions   2/22/06
Hello, all, I appreciate the wealth of information that is available on this site. I hope you can help me fill in a few holes I haven't been able to glean from your pages. 1) How long can Ich remain dormant in temperatures above 85F?...
<Marine/Crypt: Days to a few weeks... depending on... conditions, in the absence of fish hosts... with fishes about, indefinitely. Freshwater/Ichthyophthirius can be present indefinitely>
I have 4--2-3" discus that are currently battling what looks like Ich. These small, whitish, reflective nodules numbering approx. 20/fish have "sprung up from nowhere" and infested my poor discus. There haven't been any new fish added since Nov. of 95 and the temps have been maintained above 85F since then, normally around 86. I recently moved and my water parameters went from 7.6ph, .5dGH to 7.4ph, 13dGH
<Mmm, pH a bit high... I'd look to keeping under 7.0>
and the water is from a rural plant (still culinary, not well). We've been somewhat concerned because we noticed the Ich at the same time as some type of bug raced through our family, resulting in 'gastro-intestinal distress'--to put it loosely...pun intended. We were concerned that the bug on the fish and the 'bug' bothering us might be 'related'.
Temps have been raised to 88F and I've added Quickcure and salt to the water, as well as Metronidazole to the food.
<...?>
This seems to be helping, but no resolution after 5 days.
<I would use Malachite Green alone here (not formalin... the other component of QuickCure>
2) During our move my reef tank melted down. I don't mean that figuratively... the LR and corals were traveling in the back of my van and when we pulled them out the water temp was at least 140F!
<Yeeikes!>
(They were accidentally put right in front of a heater vent-I lost all of my corals and fish!) Fortunately their aquarium w/ 4" DSB and 1"plenum was not super-heated and I still have my snails and crabs. I have since put the 60+ lbs. of once-live rock back in my standard 55gal. aquarium and the water parameters for the last 3 weeks have been 0,0,0 for NH4, NO2, and NO3. One of my biggest concerns right now is that the new house is very poorly insulated and the house temps range from 69-79...and my lighting is 250W MH and 130W CFL! I've shifted the light cycle to after sun-down but my dig. therm. broke and I haven't had a  chance to see if that will help any. Should I just bite the bullet and get a chiller?
<Mmm, possibly... or consider other countervailing strategies... posted>
Drop the MH and get a different lighting type?. I keep softies and am planning on trying my hand at a BTA some time in the next year or so. When would it be ok to start stocking with fish/corals?
<A month or more...>
Should I look at adding some more LR to my system or will the DSB reseed the LR (I still have a small smidgen of coralline left)? Thanks for all the help. Branon Rochelle.
<I would add  a few new pounds of LR. Bob Fenner>

Marine Water Quality/Cloudy 125 Reef Tank   2/22/06
Hello Crew, <Hello Ethan.>
I am a little concerned about the recent events occurring with my 125g reef tank. I currently have 100lbs live rock, several mushroom coral,
bulb tip anemone, coral banded shrimp, skunk cleaner shrimp, 100+ crabs, 1 hippo tang, yellow tang, flame angel, Bangkok cardinal, 1
tomato clown, and royal Gramma.
Things have been doing very well recently until Wednesday of last week. My tank water has turned cloudy and my protein skimmer has been producing
a huge amount of froth/foam. The sponge in my overflow seems very slimy (clear) when I clean it. I tested most of my water parameters:
ph 8.2
Ca 400
Nitrite 0
Nitrate low
Ammonia 0
SG 1026
Alkalinity 3
phosphate 0
What is going on? I am really concerned about my corals that are looking shriveled and small. What can I do to fix the cloudiness and
slimy feel to the water? I don't want to lose my system I have invested so much time into. <Sure sounds to me like a water conditioner of some kind was added...yes?
If not, I suggest doing a large water change...say 25% and see what happens.  You may have to do this weekly until things improve.  Do regularly clean the sponge in the overflow till problem gets corrected.  Also read FAQ's here for more suggestions.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marh20qualfaq4.htm  James (Salty Dog)>
Please help.
Ethan H. Morris DVM

Stocking/Maintenance - 02/21/06
Hello again Wet Web Media Crew and EricR,
<<Hello Henderson...EricR here>>
Thanks for the advice.
<<Welcome>>
Well for the follow up.  The Indigo Hamlet and the Flame Angel are working out their differences.
<<Ah, very good.>>
The Flame Angel isn't bothering the Indigo Hamlet as much, only a little at feeding time.
<<Not atypical behavior really.>>
Also I think the Marine Betta and the Indigo Hamlet have finally realize that the Christmas Wrasse is just too big for them (well at least the Indigo Hamlet), or the Christmas Wrasse is just too fast for them.
<<Likely the latter.>>
I will continue to keep an close eye the Indigo Hamlet and Marine Betta’s attitude towards the Christmas Wrasse.  I've notice you were a bit confused about my LFS giving me the pink leather coral as a trial base for keeping soft and mushroom corals.
<<Mmm, thought it strange when you said they gave it to you to see if you "were ready" for corals.>>
Well I told him about my tank and the lighting situation.  He suggested that I try this Pink Leather Coral Frag, and let him know how my experience went with it.  He believed that I should be fine with the lighting I have, but I should really think about upgrading the lighting system.
<<Ahh, I see.>>
Well as of now I'm going to go ahead and purchase the Coralife 48in. Aqua light Compact Retrofit w/ 4-65 watt lamps.  Which should give me 260 watts, so that's about 3.4 watts per gallon.  I think that should be enough for mushrooms and soft corals.
<<Hmm, be sure to research each specimen before you add it to the tank, adjusting their location (up/down) to account for differences in requirements.>>
I mean I've read that mushrooms and soft corals don't really and prefer not to have very strong lights, but I've also read that some mushrooms and soft corals love strong lighting.  So I guess I'll be okay right down the middle.
<<Actually...it comes down to the fact that many corals are quite "adaptable" that allows many aquarists to be successful.>>
I'll just do the research on which type of mushrooms and soft corals would be best for the system.
<<Excellent!>>
Do you have any suggestions on which mushrooms or soft coral would be a nice fit for this system?
<<Many of the corallimorphs will do fine in the lower third of your tank.  Though they can live/survive under high light conditions, I've seen them lose their color and turn brown under these conditions.  Be aware that many LPS corals do well/prefer "moderate" lighting.  Many of the commonly referred brain, torch, candy-cane corals would do fine with your lighting selection.  When selecting/placing these, the "reds" tend to like/require less light than the "greens".>>
I'll also take your advice on siphoning out the Cyanobacteria out of the refugium.  Lately I've just been skimming the Cyanobacteria that floats to top off with a brine shrimp net.  Also you said I should get my nitrates around 5 or below.  Well I think with a few more water changes this week and I should have my nitrate problem licked.  You also brought up a good point about the salt mix causing my nitrates to get so high, I don't think it was the salt mix though.  I was using mostly Instant Ocean and the Coralife marine salt mix.
<<Mmm, best to pick on and stick with it...my vote goes to IO.>>
My other LFS said I was doing too many water changes causing the my water to somehow go through another cycle, but I believe it was my tap water source.
<<Indeed...tis common.>>
Is it possible for your tap water to read differently from one area in the house from the next?
<<I wouldn't think so...but I suppose anything is possible.>>
Well I guess for now I'm going to play it safe and buy my water from my LFS until I can afford an RO/Deionization unit.  Once again thank you for your time and help.
<<Very welcome
By the way my name is Henderson... I notice I didn't put my name in the last e-mail.  Well... thanks again.
<<A pleasure to make your acquaintance Henderson.  Regards, EricR>>

Help!  Red Algae and High Calcium   2/22/06
Hi,
<Hello>
I love your articles and services provided to the fish lover community.  
<And yourself?>
I'm dealing with a couple serious problems in my reef tank now.  I've a lot of red algae everywhere.  
<... perhaps BGA>
I used several doses of Chemi-clean from Boyd Enterprises to get rid of some the last 3 weeks,
<Only good for recycling the nutrients... unless the root cause/s are addressed...>
but the algae just keeps coming back.  So I checked the water condition.  The PH, nitrite, ammonia were fine and within the normal range except the nitrate and calcium.  The nitrate level was ~100ppm (in pink)
<Ooops>
and I had already reduced the amount of food in each feeding (2 feedings per day).  The calcium level, ~650, is what makes me worried and I think that's probably what contributes to the red algae.
<... do you have appreciable alkalinity?>
I read the articles on your site, had added simple baking soda to bring the calcium level down but seemed no help.
<I'd be checking your calcium test device...>
I'd stopped adding all additives (strontium, iodine, essential element, calcium) now.  And I changed ~15-20% of water every 2 weeks (every week for the last 2 weeks).  Pls help.
<... with what?>
I used tap water, added AmQuel to remove the ammonia and chlorine, and Kent Marine sea salt.  I tested the calcium level of the tap water and it was ~450-500.  
<I'd switch your salt mix brand, look into a reverse osmosis device for your aquarium and potable water uses>
Another question, what other additives do I need for the tank besides the ones I listed above?  
Thanks,
Adrian
<Keep reading Adrian... your answers are on WWM... Learn to/use the Google search tool... Bob Fenner>

Stocking/Maintenance - 02/19/06
Hello Wet Web Media Crew.
<<Howdy>>
Everyday when I'm at work (Hotel Night Auditor- 11pm-7pm shift) I'm on your web site gaining valuable information, and I just want
to thank you for having this wonderful site before I get started.
<<Glad you enjoy it/find it useful.>>
Well let me 1st tell you about my system, then I'll get to my questions.  I have a 75 gallon tank, with 75lbs of live rock, and
about 60lbs of live sand that's been up and running for about 7 to 8 months.  The current inhabitants are 3 PJ Cardinals, Marine Betta, Christmas Wrasse, Flame Angel, Indigo Hamlet, and a pink leather coral my LFS gave me just see if I'm ready for corals.
<<?>>
I have a Coralife Super Skimmer 125, a 10 gallon tank sump made into a wet and dry system that is in turn hook up to a Maxi-Jet
1000 connected to an Aqua-Medic 9 watt UV sterilizer that runs right into my other 10 gallon tank sump made into a refugium with
a 3in. live sand bed, few live rock rubble, and Caulerpa with 24 hr. lighting with a 50/50 24-watt bulb, which is pump back into my
main 75 gallon tank with a Rio aqua pump (I believe 2100, I'm not sure what model).  I also have a Maxi-Jet 1200 Natural Wave
System, with two Maxi-Jet 1200 in each corner of the tank and one in the middle with a Hydro-FLO rotating deflector connected to it. My water parameters reads as Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 10,
<<If you expect to keep corals you should strive to get this to 5 or below.>>
pH 8.2, Calcium levels are around 450.  All tested by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Test kits.  I had a bad hair algae and Cyanobacteria attack, and my nitrates seem to be off the charts,
no matter how many times I did my water changes (which were like 2 times a week 25 gallons each time), until I added the refugium,
and started buying my saltwater already made at the LFS.  Since buying my water already being made so now I only do water changes twice or three times a month, due to the cost.
<<Mmm, perhaps time to change/experiment with different salt brands.>>
I feed my fish at least once or twice a day with squid, Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, Nori seaweed, table shrimp, and some flounder fillets I found at the grocery store.
<<Excellent!  I'm a huge fan of feeding fishes well with a varied selection.>>
All my food is soaked in garlic guard and Zoe.  LOL, my girlfriend says they eat better than I do.
<<Indeed>>
Well my 1st questions is I want to add a Foxface, Lo, with this addition am I over loading my tank, or is my tank already overloaded?  That will be my last fish.
<<You might be able to get by with the addition of the Foxface...though I think you're pushing the envelope.>>
I also want to add mushrooms and soft corals to my tank, as of right now I only have a 54 watt Coralife Aqualight strip light for lighting my main tank, I was wondering should I upgrade to an VHO retrofit 48in 440 watt light system, or would that be too much?  How much wattage would you recommend for my size tank and for what I want to do?
<<I think the VHO outfit will give you good flexibility.  Organisms can then be placed in the tank (up and down the water column) according to their lighting requirements...that I'm sure you will research.>>
The pink leather coral is doing great.  I placed it near the top of some of my live rock.  If I must say, the pink leather coral somewhat doubled in size.  My Flame Angel is not too happy with my Indigo Hamlet.  Should I take the Flame Angel out and set him in my refugium for a week or so and then put him back?
<<If the hamlet was added to the display after the angel, this may help.>>
Also for some reason the Marine Betta and the Indigo Hamlet see my Christmas wrasse (which is not small, about 3 1/2 inches compare to there 5 inches) as food, and chase him like they want him for lunch. I thought they only went after really small fish, like maybe a 1/2 an in. to 1 in.
<<These guys can/will swallow surprisingly large fish.  It might just be aggression, though the Marine Betta is considered quite peaceful toward other fishes, unless it wants to eat them of course.  Your wrasse may truly be in peril.>>
Also is it better to keep PJ Cardinals in a bigger shoal then just 3?  I've always seen them in trios in other people's tanks.
<<They'll do fine either way.>>
One more thing, I've gotten rid of most of the hair algae and Cyanobacteria in my main tank, but now my refugium has Cyanobacteria floating on top of the water and in other places in my refugium. Should I be worried, and what do I do to get rid this Cyanobacteria in my refugium.
<<You say it is on the decline...I would simply siphon it out of the refugium.>>  
Do I increase my flow in my refugium.
<<Shoot for a flow rate of 10x the 'fuge volume.>>
Sorry for the long e-mail, and all the questions.  I know you guys are really busy, but any input you guys may have on my system would great. Thanks.
<<Regards, EricR>>

Tank advice 02-05-06 Reef op.
Hey guys,
<JT>
Thank you very much for this website.  I have returned to the hobby after about 10 years away and am amazed at how much things have changed.  I have
thoroughly read the articles and FAQ's from other hobbyists looking for answers to my questions and generally have been successful.  Finally decided
to break down and ask a few myself.  Tank has been up and running for a year and a half and set up is as follows: 120 gallon tall, 4x65w PC (Orbit),
overflow box feeding a Pro Clear 150 wet/dry with built-in skimmer, Quiet One 4000 as a return, UV sterilizer, 3 powerheads in the tank for
circulation. Livestock is 150 lbs live rock, 4 firefish, 2 percula clowns, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 diamond watchman goby, 1 royal Gramma, 1 valentini
puffer, 3 blue damsels, 3 blood red cleaner shrimp, assorted snails and hermits.  Also a few mushrooms and polyps, I know that is all I can ever
support with my lights.  Tank has 4 inches of medium-grade sand because I used to have some jawfish which I unfortunately lost early on to a
cryptocaryon outbreak.  Having problems with high nitrates and thus BGA.   Water quality is ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 100+, salinity 1.024,
phosphate 0, alkalinity 10.2.  Never would have bought a wet dry if I had known about this site beforehand.  After reading this site have made LOTS of
changes.  I shut down the nitrate factory by removing all the bio-balls, replaced with 5 inches of sugar-fine sand and Caulerpa and added a small PC
that runs 24/7.  Added 30 more lbs live rock to the tank, bringing it up to 150.  Replaced the 3 maxi-jet 400 powerheads with maxi-jet 1200's to
increase circulation and keep the BGA from settling.  I feed once a day, only as much as they can eat in 5 minutes with no left-overs, and I don't
dump the thawed cube water into the tank when feeding.  Tank housekeeping has been neglected due to getting sidelined by major knee surgery, so I know
I need to be more consistent with vacuuming sand and water changes.  Have been only topping off with gallons of spring water from my local grocery
store.  The main questions I have for you guys are:
1) I am concerned the 4 inches of sand in the tank is my main problem with nitrates, i.e. nutrient sink (other than my poor housekeeping lately).  I
knew nothing of NNR or DSB's when I set the tank up, just wanted the jawfish to be happy.  I now know the sand is sitting at the border between what is
beneficial and detrimental for NNR.  Plus the watchman goby moves it all the time so in some places it is a couple inches, other places 5-6 inches.  
Should I remove all but a little, or add more?  Read Anthony Calfo's article on DSB's and seems like this size (medium-grade) is okay for NNR but maybe I
need more?
<DSB need constant care and critter additions.  If you are not able to put the time in, pull the sand down to less than 1 inch.>
2) The Pro-clear 150 that I have converted to a full-on sump came with a skimmer but it doesn't work very well.  Plan on getting an Aqua C remora to
hang on the sump at the first chamber where the overflow comes in.  Do you think this will make a significant difference in its efficiency, having it
pull water from the sump rather than the tank surface itself?  The Aqua C urchin won't fit in this first chamber due to the Pro-clear bubble trap at
the overflow inlet.  I figured if it is still pulling in water from the overflow (which is surface water anyway) and before it goes through the
Caulerpa and sand bed it would be fine.  Read all of your information on skimmers and seems like Aqua C is a sure thing, definitely better than what
came with my filter.
<It will work great in your sump. As you already know the water in the sump is surface skimmed.>
3) My very expensive Pro-clear "sump" is only 12.9 gallon capacity according to specs.  Is this too small to be doing any good?  Should I just scrap the
whole thing and put a 40 gallon Rubbermaid tub under my stand, fill it with sand and macroalgae and a bigger skimmer?  Nitrates have come down some but
not a whole lot since I converted it to a DSB with macroalgae.
<I would remove the sump and sell it to someone that would enjoy having it.  I suggest buying a 30 gallon glass tank and skipping the Rubbermaid.>
I appreciate any advice you can guys can give.  And thank you again for the website, it has been an invaluable resource for me.  Sincerely, JT
<Always glad to help. One last note would be to ditch the Caulerpa and switch to Chaetomorpha. Caulerpa leaches toxins back into your tank and can go sexual and break down very easily. Travis>

Re: Tank advice 02-07-06
Hi guys,
<JT>
Wanted to thank Bob and Travis for their replies.  Turns out my questions got answered twice, since I re-sent my e-mail thinking it hadn't gotten
through.  I promise to be more patient this time in waiting for a reply! <No need to apologize. It was my fault, I got a little side tracked.> A
couple more questions for either of you (or whoever is around).  I will eventually upgrade the size of my sump, but isn't an option right now due to
my knee.  However, I currently have nothing in the DSB in the sump except Caulerpa.  Besides Travis's suggestion of switching the Caulerpa to
Chaetomorpha, should I add anybody down there to keep it healthy?  Perhaps some Nassarius snails? <They wouldn't hurt.> Currently there are lots of little 'pods swimming
around down there, and some tiny snails which I think hatched from margarita (or other) snails in my tank, as they are everywhere now. <Sounds like it is doing well so far.> Also, Travis mentioned that I need critters to keep my sand bed in the main tank healthy.   What would this entail?  I am assuming things like the aforementioned
Nassarius, possibly brittle and/or sand-sifting stars? <Keep the stars out of the picture as they will eat many beneficial organisms. You are going to want to look for sand bed janitor packages. Many online sites carry them. They will have specific worms, conchs, snails, etc...> My watchman goby
does a very good job of stirring about the surface gravel.  When I rarely move my live rock around I have noticed several small polychaete worms, and
have read they aren't all bad so I have let them be so far.  My polyps/mushrooms seem none the worse for wear, so I guess that is okay.  
Also, I have placed Nassarius in the main tank before but they always disappear.  I know this is normal for them, but then later on I will see one
or two of the hermit crabs in there with new Nassarius shell homes, so I think they are ending up as expensive treats for the hermits.  So is there a
specific critter that won't be gobbled by hermits?  And do you think I should maybe start pulling out the hermits as I see them, other than maybe
some of the scarlet reefs?  I currently have scarlet reefs, zebra, and blue-leg hermits in there (about 10 of each).  Thanks again to you both for
taking the time to reply to my questions, and to the rest of the WWM crew for this website.  It is awesome!
<I personally don't use hermits in my tank for a couple reasons... Number one is the snail issue you are witnessing and number two is the damage they do dragging their shell around. I used to have a coral farming business and there is nothing more frustrating than picking up frags that the hermits knock down daily. Travis>
JT

Clown fish has disappeared in live rock stack   2/2/06
I am very new at keeping a saltwater tank.  Have been reading your site extensively, and Fenner's book, (Conscientious Marine Aquarist).
<Know him well>
I have a 55 gal. hexagon tank. Set up by seller on Dec 5th. with live rock, live sand, w/d filter.  Completely cycled two weeks ago Returned aggressive damsel fish used for cycling. , added two false clownfish, one coral shrimp, two starfish,
<Mmm, of what species?>
2 snails and a dozen tiny hermit crabs for janitors. My water quality has been excellent according to test strips. SG (1.024 for starfish) and temperature  at 79 F. All seemed well. I added 6 green Chromis six days ago. 10% water change 3 days ago.
<Too many for this size/shape system>
One of the clown fish started behaving strangely yesterday morning. Stayed at top of tank, refused to eat,  rapid breathing.  by noon she was absolutely fine, active, eating. This morning she went up to the top of the tank, acting same way. Now she is "missing".  The live rock is in a stack against the back wall. Lots of crevices - I assume she is in there somewhere.  Should I take all the rocks out to find her or will that be too stressful on the rest of the fish?
<The latter... I would hold off here. Even if the fish is dead, dissolving... the system should be able to "weather" its demise>
If she dies I assume it will ruin the water quality so I would have to do it anyway.  How long is it safe to wait before trying to remove her. After reading many clownfish questions I wonder if it is possible that she is simple hiding.  All other inhabitants are fine, active eating well.
<Indefinitely>
I think I should probably take out most of the stack and just leave a few rocks on the bottom in case this happens again. The seller stacked it this way during set up.
I have three more questions. My rock was looking good with purple and some green starting. I  now have white patches on the rock, sort of looks like bird droppings.  Seems to have started since  I have added a buffer  (Kent Marine pro buffer DKH) to the sump every other day per LFS.
<Mmm, not a question, a declarative statement. I wouldn't be concerned re these "droppings">
My next question is really stupid but can't find the answer anywhere. When I do water changes, the sump empties. Will this harm the pump?
<Can, yes. Best to turn off during these change-outs>
My concern is that water pumps should not run dry. It doesn't take very long once I remove the water to add the new water.
I regret buying the hexagon as the fish do not seem to have enough "length" for swimming. Can is still use the 4" of fish per 10 gallons or does the hex shape change that ratio.
<Does... less. Best to have about a cubic inch of fish life per five gallons...>
Thank you for your patience in reading this long email.
I appreciate your site, it is so helpful.
Thanks,  Jill
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Use the Google search tool on WWM, look at the cached versions... for highlighted key terms   2/2/06
Hi again Bob.....
<Ted>
   I wrote you on Monday , and had asked you about my skimmer . I mentioned that I had a Red Sea Prism Pro Deluxe , and you suggested something better , as this one was not up to par . I am thinking of going with the TurboFlotor 1000 , w/Ocean Runner 2700 pump . Your thoughts...
<Are posted on WWM re "Skimmer Selection FAQs"...>
   Also, while I'm here , your opinion on this set-up having the majority of corals made up of Zoanthids of different kinds and colours , and , Florida , and Yuma Ricordeas .If this was alright , do you have any suggestions as to other compatible corals ?
<Trouble in the ongoing haul, getting worse as time goes by...>
             Thanks so much , your input is very appreciated !!!
                Ted Stasso ,
<Please use the WWM Google search tool, look at the cached versions... Bob Fenner>

Summat re overgrown LR, infauna, reef health... I guess maint.   2/1/06
Dear web media,
We have a 125.  We haven't been brushing our live rock and a bush like plant took root all over.  It is kind of pretty so we have left it.  Today we picked one up (getting cluttered, cleaning house) and before we threw it away we decided to look at it.  It had a bunch of bristle worms (1 in particular looked like a fireworm) on it and at least 5 little shrimp like creatures.  Could they be mantis shrimp in such a large population.  (each bush had many shrimp and worms on it,
<Neat>
after the first infested bush we ripped the rest out).  The bush smelt bad.  Our frogspawn coral died for no apparent reason lately and our new elegance coral is doing the same thing.
<Not an easily kept species>
(detaching from skeleton). each was near a lot of bush and majano anemones.  I guess the question is are these shrimp or worms hostile to the tank?  
<Doubtful>
any help is appreciated, thanks,
Crystal Dyer
<Uhh... please read over re Bristleworms/Polychaetes, Catalaphyllia... on WWM. Much to relate, for you to know... Bob Fenner>

Water Flow, Live Rock Hideaways ... reef op.   1/31/06
Hello!  First, I want to thank all of you for this valuable resource you're providing to the rest of us. I've bookmarked the site, and browse it multiple times each day.
<I as well...>
My Setup
I have a few questions for you, but first let me tell you about my setup.  I was given a tank that someone didn't want anymore, which was originally a freshwater setup. So,  I'm just starting this 55 gallon tank. I am using live sand, about 3 inches deep, and currently have about 75 pounds of live rock in it.  The ammonia, ph, nitrites and nitrates all look good, based on the parameters listed in the test kit. The tank has been set up for about a month now.  We began with un-cured live rock and let that cycle through until our ammonia dropped to 0.  We went to the fish store two days ago and talked to them, and they recommended clown fish to us.
<Tank bred I hope/trust>
We purchased two clown fish and about 10 pounds of live rock that was supposed to be fully cured.  We saw an initial spike in the ammonia upon adding the fish and rock, but it only lasted about 2-3 hours, then quickly started falling, so I think we're all right on that.
<Yes, should be>
  I would eventually like to add coral to this tank, but that is months away, as I currently don't have adequate filtration and lighting to support the coral.
Save the Starfish!
While peeking in the tank last night, I found that we brought home quite a few hitchhikers.  I'm counting somewhere between 15 and 20 starfish.  I believe that they are serpent stars/brittle stars based on what I can find on this site.  I'm concerned that the tank won't be able to support this number of sea stars, particularly with as new as it is.
I was wondering if there is anything that I can do to help these little critters survive?  I assume they are babies, as the longest one is only about 1 1/2 inches across.  Is there a supplemental food that you would recommend for feeding them?  I assume natural selection will remove the weaker/unhealthy ones, but would love to see some of them survive.
<Mmm, I would "let nature take its course" here... some number may survive... and likely be of benefit (mainly as cleaner-uppers), but/and one of the more valuable lessons of aquarium-keeping is the nature of resource partitioning/choices... through time. Favoring these animals will disfavor others... in this semi-finite world>
Water Current
My second question is about water flow in the tank. All of my supplies were given to me, and I'm not sure they're adequate. I have a magnum 350 pump with the bio-wheels added to the return, a whisper hang on tank filter, that according to their site, is designed for tanks up to 60 gallons. In the tank itself, I have two powerheads. One is a Rio 400, the other a Rio 200.  I've set them up as I'd seen suggested here, so that they are in opposite ends of the tank and facing each other.  Will this be adequate water flow for the addition of coral in the future?
<Mmm, no. There are other consequences, patterns to consider here as well... leave off with this issue (coral stocking) for now>
If not, can you make recommendations on what I should add?
<When time is available, read through the sections on WWM re "Coral Systems"... and the links where you lead yourself... Likely you will come to overhaul your existing mechanicals... to a large extent>
  Is it too much current for the clownfish?
<Not too much>
Gas Exchange
Finally, I'm concerned about making sure there is enough aeration in the tank. I read that fine bubbles can be bad for the fish, so I'm not running any airstones within the tank.  I get some surface ripples as a result of the flow back in the tank from the magnum and whisper filters, but it's not a rough current by any means.  I added an airstone inside the tank for the whisper, hoping that might help a little with gas exchange while the water is in the filter, but I'm not sure if this is accomplishing anything.
<Has>
  I will eventually be adding a protein skimmer, which I believe will help, but until then, are bubbles from an airstone okay as long as they aren't real fine?
<Yes>
Or should I just try to aim a powerhead at the water surface to give it more turbulence?
<Will/would help also>
Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated!
Unidentified items on Live Rock
We also found some sort of growths attached to the rock that we can't identify... If I send pictures, do you think you might be able to help with that?
<Yes>
I'm sorry for the length of this email and all of the questions, but I really appreciate your help.   
Thanks!
Erin T.
<Pleased to meet you, aid your earnest efforts. Bob Fenner>

LTA and Reef Tank... op.   1/31/06
Hello,
    Just gotta couple ?'s about my LTA and a reef setting system. I've had my LTA for probably 4 months now in a reef setting. I've read that there is chemical warfare that occurs.
<Yes, always to a degree>
My tank is currently a 55 gallon tank with a Rio powerhead on one side and a wavemaker on the other for good current. I have good lighting and the anemone is buried and has been since the week i got it. Lights are as follows 2 175 10,000k each watt halides with a Coralife light strip on the side for a nice pinch of actinic and a still a lil extra white on the side. 2 65 watt 50/50. The anemone is doing fine and comes out and expands everyday about 10 to 12 inches across. My critters i have in the tank are as follows
1. Green Chromis
2. Clowns 1 false percula 1 half breed.....False percula/black clown mix. Got it from a breeder
1 Purple firefish
1 psychedelic mandarin
1 hippo tang....i know i have to get a bigger tank. She is still small though
1 Fiji devil damsel
1 peppermint shrimp
10 Turbo Snails
10 Hermits  red legs
60lbs of live rock
crushed coral substrate. bout 3 inches
for corals i have
1 Bubble coral
1 Xenia coral
1 Colt coral
Green star polyps
Metallic green mushrooms
Feather duster worm
All seem to be doing well...except the mushrooms they did fine for the first week and have started to spread on there rock new ones growing but the put off sort of a slime. I know that its normal but could it be a result of having two of the different kind of "anemone" in the tank?
<Yes>
All other corals are doing very well. I know this is a long one but my xenia colony is spreading very slowly could have something to do with warfare??
<Yes>
I have all corals spaced well and a good working protein skimmer and plenty of circulation in the tank.. also my salinity is about 1.021 a little low
<... Yes>
and am not sure if this could also have something to do with the slow spreading of the xenia. All other water parameters are fine. Ph 8.3, Ammonia 0, nitrates, nitrites both in check, I add SeaChem reef complete for calcium and other trace elements. And recently started iodide. Any information would help. Thanks
Matt Sytsma
<Re what? In this size volume, shape system, you can likely "do okay" by dilution/water changes, use of chemical filtrants... for months to years. Bob Fenner>

Fireworm, peppermint shrimp and hiding B/G Chromis  1/27/06
Bob, Anthony, crew.
Hope you are all well and brought in the New Year appropriately.  I apologize for the lengthy writing but wanted to be reasonably complete.
Since the last additional 5lbs of LR, I still have the M. Clown in QT, doing a bit better but still not there.  I had one -large- pacific fire worm in the rock which I couldn't get out, did a freshwater dip and drip to no avail.  I believed it perished as I left the rock out for quite a while doing this process (>4 hours).  So, I placed the LR back in the tank, have not seen any sign of it at all.
I took this opportunity to stock since one fish and one shrimp seemed slim, while re-aquascaping territory for the Clowns return.  The only life in the tank while the Clown was QT was my sexy shrimp and the cleanup crew of blue/tiger hermits, mixed snails, micro stars and 1 small conch.  I purchased 3 Peppermint Shrimp, 5 Chromis. During this time, I did frag the anchor we talked previously about and traded a 2 mouth segment for a green star colony, a tan xenia, a white xenia and 2 green hairy mush.  The corals are thriving, as are the other LPS corals.
In the last 2 weeks, all but two spots of Aiptasia are gone (go pepps).  However, one day apart, 2 peppermint shrimp perished.  No signs of wounds on their body, just laying on the sand.
I do 20% water changes weekly and check water metrics often and consistently have;
40g tank
200w 10k/actinic
0 Nitrite
0 Amm
2 to 8 at most ppm Nitrate (usually from a small piece of LR finishing curing, I buy small quantities of cured/mostly cured, qt and then place in tank, have gotten nice hitchhikers this way including micro stars, cops, polyps and coralline. Affordable and usually a surprise)
PH 8.3 (Reef Complete twice a week, dissolved)
Alk 10 to 11 DKH
Calc 360
(I am researching a better measures for Calc and Alk)
SG 1.024
Temp 77 to 79. (Night to peak)
Tank Turnover appx 16x/hour
Open tank, good gas exchange, skimmate is dark and about 1.5 cups a week (for this load, I believe that is good IMHO)
No Cyano/diatoms and minimal film algae for over a month now with the new husbandry practices and have to supplement the herbivores feed with the reduced algae growth
I was not highly concerned about the shrimps as you never know age and such with shrimp and they were mature.  The third was highly visible and outgoing.  Then, one Chromis was found being eaten by tiger hermits.  Now the tiger hermits live at the LFS, they were eating my coralline anyway - 11 hermits (with nice pink/purple coralline covered shells) traded for a small powerhead and a bottle of Reef Complete.  Then a second Chromis was bashed by the clown for being around the anchor.  The third Chromis  -disappeared- a day later.  Now there are two.
The sexy shrimp is the only static fauna and is outgoing and loves the camera.  The two remaining Chromis have sequestered themselves in the rock work for a couple weeks and do not come aside from feeding time.  They were outgoing from the start, now they run when I am around.  I feel shunned, are Chromis of the Amish persuasion?
<Definitely not>
With the three dead Chromis, the two dead shrimp, the missing shrimp and the odd behavior, either I have horrible luck with fish and great luck with corals, or here are some of my thoughts, and I would like yours as well if you have the time.
- The fireworm is alive and well; hunting and hiding with the reduced feedings.
- The two remaining Chromis are paired, beat up the others and are spawning repeatedly where they are hiding on some wild honeymoon
- I should never buy another fish and keep being a coral  hobbyist
<Likely so, likely so, and maybe>
I spend a great deal of time on my 9 month old reef ensuring that there 'should' be a good quality of life for the inhabitants in my care and it bothers me to have had the bad luck with fish and non-corals as I have.  I typically hear the reverse.
Thank you, take care and all my best.
Bill
<Bob Fenner>