- High Nitrate Problems in Reef Tank -
I apologize in advance if I provide you more information than needed, however, I feel more is better than less when it comes to solving these types of problems.
My wife and I moved to North Carolina two year ago and left behind a Saltwater Fish Only, 125 Gallon Aquarium. About a year and a half ago we decided to set up our “Ultimate”: aquarium in our new house.  We hired a local, well respected Reef/Saltwater Fish establishment to build us a custom (not the tank but all of the cabinetry and plumbing) 140 Gallon, reef and Saltwater Setup.  The setup is as follows:
- 140 Gallon (24”x48”x 28½) Glass Aquarium
- 2 @ 250Watt Metal Halide Lights (10,000ºK)
- 2 @   96Watt Super Actinic VHO Fluorescents
- 2 Small, Fixed power heads to circulate water within the tank
- 2  5/8” output tubes from output pump to return water and further circulate water within the tank
- 2-3” of Aragonite Substrate Material covering the tank bottom
- Approximately 150lbs of Good Quality Live Rock (not sure about how much)
- Reef Concepts Model 624 Aerofoamer
- Reef Concepts Model CA700 Calcium Reactor and associated pump, monitor CO2 tank and bubble counter
- Kent RO Water system which automatically fills a 40 Gal reservoir which is used to auto fill evaporating water in tank and create new Saltwater for water changes
- Unidentified Circulating pump which is moving at least 1400 gallons of water per hour
- Custom Made Sump for the Protein Skimmer and Calcium Reactor Approximately 60 gallon capacity which is filled to about 30 Gallons
- Red Sea 200mg/hr Ozonizer and ORP Monitor
- Aqualogic 1/3HP Aquarium Chiller and Cooler/Heater Controller
The system was fully functional about a year ago at which point we added about 5-10 soft corals and several Tangs. Initially I relied on the Aquarium Maintenance Guy to do all of the parameter monitoring (big mistake!).  Gradually over the past year we now have the fish/coral/invertebrates:
- Approximately 15 Soft Corals, Leathers, Bubbles, mushrooms, etc
- The following Fish  -  3” Yellow Tank, 4” Sailfin Tang, 3” Fairy Wrasse, 1¼”  six-line wrasse, 3” engineer goby, 2 fairly larges fire shrimp, 2½ Kole Tang, 2” Scribble Rabbit, 3” Hippo Tang, 4” Pink Sea
Cucumber.
- Until about 2 months ago when “trouble began” I also had a 3” clam and approximately 3 hard corals. The clam died and the hard corals also lost there polyps.
I have the Fluorescents turned on at 2:00PM and turned off at 10:00PM, I have the halides turned on at 3:00PM and turned off at 9:00PM.  A 20 – 25% water change is done every three to four weeks, mostly four weeks lately. <This is the clue... you really shouldn't wait so long to do water changes. I know there are many out there who would say, "I haven't done a water change in a year." But these folks are hovering over a disaster and I'd much prefer to see you change at least 10% every two weeks, or even better 5% a week.> There is virtually no coralline algae or even dark green algae buildup (very strange). The temperature is maintained at a steady 77º, the PH in the reactor typically between 6.7 and 6.9.
About 2 months ago, I first noticed the clam had “passed away”. Next I noticed the hard corals had bleached which was confirmed by the maintenance guy.  I next noticed that the some of the soft corals where “drooping” and is some cases not standing up at all. I don’t think any are gone but they are not looking anywhere as good as they did 6 months ago.
I then decided to check some of the tank parameters myself with the following results
-  Nitrate level    -  80ppm  (yes, I said 80!) <This would not have killed you clam, but will certainly cause trouble for other invertebrates.>
-  Specific Gravity  -  1.0125
-  Ph level  -  8.4 – 8.5
-  Nitrite Level   .5ppm
-  Calcium – Approximately 400
-  Alkalinity – Approximately 250
I called the maintenance guy who swore he never read more than a negligible level of nitrates. He came out and realized that his reagents were bad and confirmed the 80 ppm level.  He did an immediate 50% water change and the nitrate level dropped to 45 -50ppm.  The next day I took another reading and it was back up to 80 ppm.
I do believe I have been overfeeding this tank for quite a while I feed them approximately 4 cubes of frozen food a day, formula 1, formula 2, plankton and Mysis shrimp! <This would be a problem.>
When I reported this to the maintenance guy, he said we would have to replace the entire aragonite substrate, I task I’m not looking forward to because of the work involved, but more importantly the effect on the biological process. <Better to just use a gravel vac and let it remain for now.> I contacted someone else who told me not to take this extreme measure. <I agree.> When we vacuum the substrate we can only get to the front 1/3 of the tank because everything else is under rock. <Time to move some rock around so you can clean that gravel.> Perhaps the debris is being swept behind the live rock where is now building up. I can try and take a power head and blow out the stuff behind the rock but I’m afraid it will be difficult to get anything other than surface debris.
Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions as to what I should do. The fish are doing great and some of the corals look OK but I want to head off a disaster if that is what is on the horizon
I would appreciate any recommendations or suggestions on anything else that might be going on here.  Why am I not growing any coralline (purple/lavender) algae
<Well... think we need to address the nitrates first. Do absolutely step up your water change regimen... this will be the best way to reduce nitrates. Also, think about moving some of that live rock around so you can better clean the gravel. This won't harm the biological filtration and will also help reduce the nitrates. Finally, cut back on the feeding - I'm sure you knew this already but these things combined will address the accumulating nitrates and once those are below 10ppm, then see how the coralline and corals do.>
Lew
<Cheers, J -- >

- High Nitrate Problems in Reef Tank, Follow-up -
Thanks for the response. <My pleasure.> Just two more questions:
1) Should I remove the substrate entirely and replace with 3 - 4" of new substrate. <I wouldn't.> This was a recommendation but it is a big job and I am afraid of destabilizing a system which is still very healthy for all fish. <My concern as well. Better to just rearrange things so you can give that gravel a good cleaning out. May require more than one session, which would be fine, but you could clean the gravel just by moving the rock around.>
2) Should I be concerned about the little gunk coming out of the Skimmer. <No... I'm sure it will pick up on the day you clean the gravel.>
I just took another reading and it looks like the nitrates went down to about 50
Lew
<Cheers, J -- >

Need Help!...Too Many Fish/Anemones - 06/05/05
Hi Bob,
<<Eric R. here (while Bob gets his sight back after too many hours in front of the monitor).>>
My question is regarding my 30 gal. saltwater aquarium which is about 2 and a half months old.  Some info on the tank:  I have a BioChem powerhead/protein skimmer, Lunar Aqualight w/ one 96w True Actinic 03 Blue and one 96w 10,000k Daylight, two 3/4w Linar Blue-moon glow LED, 20 lbs of live rock, a bubble tip anemone, long tentacle anemone, xenia, a rock with different types of polyps on it, Kenyan tree (recently purchased), strawberry Pseudochromis, 2 blue Chromis, a flame angel, a yellow tang, a baby hippo tang, 14 snails, and a shrimp.
<<Some problems here.  This tank is grossly overstocked...neither tang is suitable for a tank this size (baby or not)...motile cnidarians (anemones) should never be housed with sessile invertebrates, and to make matters worse, you have two differing species of anemone in this tank.>>
I just lost my two clownfish this afternoon due to unknown reasons.
<<Not so unknown, re my previous statement.>>
The tank water has a SG of 1.023, ph 8.2, ammonia .50ppm, nitrites .25ppm , nitrates 20ppm and temp of 78.
<<Yikes!  This tank is NOT handling the bio-load.  Remove the two tangs and perform a LARGE water change.  I'm surprised your anemones haven't turned to "jelly.">>
About a week ago I had to take the fish out of the tank because they all were showing signs of ick and put them in a hospital tank
with copper, but the fish are back in the main tank and doing well, (except for the clown fish loss today).
<<Mmm...perhaps not as "well" as you believe.>>
The pH has just come into spec because it was at 7.8, but the guy at my LFS showed me what to use to help bring it up, which it did, and yesterday I went out and bought nitrate gravel stuff for the filter, and ammonia detoxifier.  The tank has also been getting very dirty, green dirt looking algae and brown spots all over the tank walls, gravel and LR.
<<With your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels I'm not surprised.  Your tank will be going through the algae succession as if it were cycling again.>>
I have been doing water changes about one a week at 20%.  One of my questions is how do I get rid of this algae if it in fact is "bad" for my tank?  I read up a little and the website said that photosynthesis can cause it, and poor circulation, but I have the big power head and one the current maker.  I keep my light on during the day for about 12-15 hours, is this bad for the production of algae?
<<12 hours should be sufficient.>>
Also another question, my xenia, Kenyan tree, and a few of the polyps don’t open, any known reason for this?  The xenia had a hard time attaching at first but now it is attached to a little indent in the LR, and has great water flow, could it be too powerful of a flow?  Also the Kenyan tree is out in the open with great water flow, but it is still all bunched up just like the day I brought it home.
<<Aside from overstocking and poor water quality, the anemones are likely waging a war that is being felt by all (releasing stinging nematocysts to the water column).  Remove the tangs as recommended earlier, remove at least one of the anemones (would rather see these in a specie specific tank by themselves), and perform a large (50%) water change...check ammonia/nitrite/nitrates again and do another/more water changes as necessary to get all down to zero.  Keep up the monitoring/weekly water changes as before and things will improve.>>
Any advice/help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.  
Thanks! Francis
(Welcome, E7 (MSgt) Russell, Eric USAF (Retired)>>

Re: Marine Plants, Algae, marine ramblings
PS:  Just got the live sand and little shrimp and Gracilaria from
seawaterexpress.com  (he lives just outside Vegas and dropped it off
for me! Great guy!)  Anyhow, the stuff looks great!!!!  He supplies for
Foster and Smith!  Nice man!
Any how, you asked for the entire message, here it is:
<Ah, good>
Regarding your advice
Hi there Bob, hopefully this email will get to YOU PERSONALLY.  Just so
you know, you have a great reputation in the Las Vegas Valley!!
<Man, I've got to get some of those nose, glasses and mustache
disguises!>
Upon reading and reading to avoid having to bother you with an email, I
stumbled across this in the WWM and I am now not 50% confused but 100%!
lol!  I have been researching adding macro-algae to my marine tank, and
I have decided that Caulerpa is just too unstable and I don't want a
24-hour light on it.  Anyhow, I have decided that the red kelp and
several other NON-Caulerpa varieties are the way to go.  Then I found
an email where one of your guys, Anthony, said to an emailer to only
pick ONE type of macro-algae as different kinds will fight (chemical
warfare).
<Mmm, to some extent...>
   Okay, but if it is all Grac., but different colors, isn't
that okay.  Does that mean I can't add shaving brush then? Does the
kelp release toxins when they go asexual?
<Sort of release different chemicals all the time>
  Or do any of the
non-Caulerpa release toxin and cloud the tank when they go asexual??
<All life produces compounds that affect all other life... there,
that's pretty much all-inclusive>
What can we mix?
<What you desire... some will "win out" over others depending on
specifics of your situation... light, nutrients, et al... Bob Fenner>
   Here is the email you responded to:
Marine Plants
I recently purchased a juvenile emperor angelfish. Right now it is in a
29 gallon aquarium for quarantine. I feed it some flake food, angel
formula, brine shrimp and some algae sheets. I would like for it to
have some live plants and live algae for it to browse on when it moves
into it's permanent home. What kind would be the best and what is the
best lighting for the algae to thrive on. Thank you very much for your
help in advance it's much appreciated.
   <Please see the WetWebMedia.com site here... would add live rock,
Caulerpas and possibly Gracilaria, other Reds. Bob Fenner>
   Nick 
OKAY, I am assuming then that it is the Caulerpa that fights with
itself?  Since according to this email you responded to, the phrase
'CAULERPAS AND GRACILARIA" means it is okay to mix algae species.  Just
wanted you to clear this up.  I did find a comment on Red Gracilaria
not easily grown in marine aquariums.  IF that is true, given I have
1.023 salinity (for my BTA) and about 78 degrees (though I read in WWM
that BTA want more like 80 degrees), WHICH NON-Caulerpa algae would you
suggest?
<Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha species>
  I do have a very young Naso baby, so my thoughts were
anything I got would probably have to have some kind of clear /holey
protection around it.  Halimeda....yes I tried it, but my phosphates
jumping killed it.  I had those granules (black, kept moist) and they
did no good.  I have only had success with KENT.  That is another
question, why does Anthony not like KENT?
<Have to ask him. Will cc him here>
  That stuff has helped tons
of coralline algae grow and kept my only little candy cane coral and
one little zoo happy.
I also was wondering what the big deal is with mixing a BTA with
corals.
<Incompatible often... chemically and physically... Posted on WWM>
I know they move, but my BTA has found a spot to his/her
liking and has not moved.  Plus, I would think a strategic placement of
corals out of the way of a roaming BTA would be helpful.
<Shouldn't be "roaming"... indication of unsuitability>
  I am talking
just more zoo colonies not necessarily Hard Corals.  Or am I off?  What
would a BTA be okay with??
<Best kept in systems w/o other cnidarians...>
I find it odd that our little rose BTA
LOVES to hang upside down!
<More sign of trouble>
The nut!  Have 2 very young cinnamon clowns
in QT right now, and I am wondering how they will adapt to this silly
BTA.  I have to turn the rock upright to feed the dummy as it is!  He
was so hungry because being upside down, he kept dropping his food!  He
ate like a 1/2 a small silverside today in like 15 minutes!!  I
watched!!  I would think the ding-aling would realize that he needs to
be upright to eat!  He is currently sideways as I propped the rock that
way to feed him.  I have over 4 watts per gallon in my 55, (260 with
that 1 hour before and after the daylight transition light on a timer)
Just wondering what your thoughts are.
<Re anemones and lighting? Their behavior... posted... on WWM>
I have a 125 I would like to go
to as the baby tang ages, and I would use the 55 as a sump/refugium.  I
think Ogo looks promising.  I just want plants (algae) that will help
with water quality and beauty of the tank.  Anyhow, thank you so much
for your patience!!!!  Currently my parameters are.....okay the boring
stuff but necessary for you to help me:
8.2 or 8.3 PH depending on which test I use!
1.023
78 degrees
0 amm.
0 nit
2 nitrate...not 20,  but 2.
1 - 2" sandbed (getting LIVE sand ....I mean real live sand, not crap
in a bag, from a great guy in Pharump, NV who has shrimp and stuff
(www.saltwaterexpress.com) This sand is from his system and it is
strong!! Tell George that Carrie from Warmsprings and 215 sent ya)
I have 1 brittle star....not green
1 sand sifter......IS IT TRUE THEY ARE NOT GOOD BECAUSE THEY EAT GOOD
THINGS IN THE SAND????
<Can be>
1 20" Spotted Snake Eel  .....fat and growing!
hermits, turbo, Nass. snails.
45 Pounds of LR.
ONE zoo
small four headed candy cane coral
Of course cycled
I will be adding a 2" baby Naso tang,
(2)1 to 1/2" cinnamon clowns,
(4) 3/4" neon gobies....will have to take out 2 when 2 couple up.
1 Solar Fairy wrasse
1 pregnant white molly.......long story
1 young scooter blenny
They are in a 20 gallon QT because I saw some clearish whitish spots on
the fins, not the body and I am awaiting to see if it is ich/crypt.
Should I just treat it with copper and be done with it?
<What? I would watch all your fish livestock...>
I do like 50
to 75% water changes as soon as I see ammonia of .25 or more....like
every 2 to 3 days.
<... too late... find the root cause/s here and fix them>
I give them Zoë from Kent (I soak dry stuff in it, so they do eat it),
and all kinds of yummies.  I really would like to see their immune
system fight anything.  ( I will be getting garlic)  The "spots" went
away after a day or so, and came back, then went away.  It that
limpo......something something?  Should I worry?
<Will worrying change the future?>
  The tiny clown has
what anyone would think was one crypt dot on his back, but after a
freshwater dip with Meth. blue for 20 minutes, and keeping MelaFix in
the QT, it never fell off after a week!  Maybe it is scar tissue?  He
was pretty beat up when I got him....now his fins look great and he
acts fine.  I have NOT seen ONE fish itch themselves!  In fact, they
seem annoyed when the Neons try to clean them....The Neons do eat
regular food too.
Once I get this sand, it will automatically mature the system, so
adding them a few at a time should be fine if not all?
OKAY YOU ARE THE EXPERIENCED ONE...SOOOO, tell me what you think of my
QT theory (which by the way I have found some other long time marinists
use)  10-14 days at 81-84 degrees will quickly decrease a 28 day
protozoan life cycle, right?  Just like freshwater, we used to jump the
temp and add salt, sooooo jumping the temp....slowly, I know, and
lowering the salinity to maybe .017 or .018 would not only kill the
crypt due to the low salinity, but make the QT time shorter and less
stressful the new fish.  (obviously you have to monitor the behavior
and yes warmer water makes for hungrier fish it seems)  BTW, Meth blue
and freshwater dips will kill a royal Gramma!  That was NOT fun!  Hope
you have the desire or time to respond, I would really value your
input!!
Have a great week! Carrie
<My input on these matters is posted, indexed, searchable on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Reef operation/maintenance
How much of this algae will I need for the 75 gallon reef? I don't know a lot about this algae.
<no worries... just buy a small amount and cultivate it on a schedule that is comfortable and successful. Allow the mass to grow to an amount, for example, that limits your nitrates as desired (if NNR is a goal). A refugium that is 20-40% the size of the display can usually reduce nitrates with such algae>
Could you please tell me what type of sand and how much to buy to convert my EBB-N-FLOW filter into a refuge filter.
<simply get sugar fine aragonite sand and keep between 4-6" deep>
I will give this a shot on your advice. I will need to glue some Plexiglas into this filter to  have the water tall enough for the Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria. How often will I need to cultivate this algae?
<varies depending on your bio-load... it will be obvious in time. Be very systematic though (once monthly, twice monthly, etc)>
The protein skimmer on this unit is lame. I notices you really like the Aqua c protein skimmers. Is the remora a good skimmer and recommended by yourself?
<yep... one of the best for performance and perhaps the best without spending a scary amount of money>
As for the algae, it seems to grow very fast and is very dark green. It does seem to come off very easy and it does have many bubbles on it.
<have you read through the algae articles and FAQs in our archives on this topic. Many pics for ID there. Follow the links from "marine" on by starting at www.wetwebmedia.com >
I never had this algae in my fish only tank. until I added a few pieces of live rock from the reef tank and it does grow in big water currents. This is one area I believe in "major water current" on fish only tanks too. Don't get me wrong, I am not pinning my fish to the glass with water current. (hahaha)
But I do believe in the dead spot theory.
<yes... generally more water flow is better than not>
You were correct about the QT tank.
<a common mistake my friend>
I will try the QT tank and this might be better for my fish to adapt better.
<exactly... see this article here and beyond too:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm  >
For most fixes you would suggest more water changes and to put a better skimmer on the tanks?
<yes... for nutrient control issues like nuisance algae>
with my fish only tank I have a lot off mechanical filters on it. I just put a new Via Aqua750 canister filter along with my box filters and sump (without any filter just a protein skimmer). Should I try to set this tank up natural or stick with the mechanical filters.
<either will work, but natural is much less work and arguably better if the bio-load isn't too high>
I have 15 fish in a 150 gallon tank. A lot of them are small (blackcap Basslet, clowns, six line wrasse. I do have live
rock in there, but with my all-glass strip lights on this tank, I am sure my live rock isn't really growing much.... any ideas?
<no worries... most of the life is microscopic or filter feeding in the crevices. Enjoy the live rock biologically>
One last question - Lyretail hogfish - Is this a difficult fish to keep, or just have to get them eating and then they do good?
<not a hardy fish by any definition and really not suited for an active community tank>
I see in the store they don't eat right away like a Cuba will.
<exactly... Cuban and Spanish hogs are much hardier by far>
To anyone reading this, if posted, don't be afraid to ask they people on the crew. They really know what they are talking about. They have already helped me and this was my first letter sent.... Thanks again Anthony - Paul
<thanks kindly, my friend! Best regards and looking forward to chatting in the future. Anthony>

- Cha-cha-cha-changes -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I just recently swapped out my 75 gallon tank from crush coral (cc) and 13 lbs of Fiji with a blue spotted puffer, purple tang, 2 inch blue angel and a couple of clowns.  I removed all the cc and water.  The I added 80 lbs of sand, 20 lbs of that was live. I also added 79 lbs of live Fiji rock from a local fish store.  The rock was in a curing bin for 2.5 weeks with 2 water change a week.  I've been going to this store for over a year and the owner is a very honest guy.  My questions are do you think the big changes are going to be hard on fish? <Sure they are.> Should I remove my 5 gallons of bio-balls slowly or all at once? <Slowly.> I don't plan on corals but should I get VHO bulbs 4x48? <I wouldn't bother unless there is something photosynthetic that you want to keep. Fish don't care what type of light bulbs you have.> Right know I have two light fixtures with 40 watt bulbs a total of 160 watts. <Sounds fine.>
What amount of time should I leave the lights on, less time for the first week or full 12 hrs from day one? <Start out with six or eight hours, and then move up.> Currently the tank is on day 3 with the new change. The purple tang did show some whit spots on his right fin on day 2, looks better on day 3.
I also have a classic protein skimmer with a Rio 3100 hooked up and a Rio 2500hp for the sump return.  one last thing that I thought was cool.  I just e-mailed red sea and asked if the venture valve degrades over time, and they said yes and they will ship me a new one with the tool to replace it for free.  I thought that was cool.  Thank for any info.
Lewis Fish
<Cheers, J -- >

Course of action on a neglected reef tank?
Hello,
<greetings!>
I have a 50gal reef that has been set-up for about 2 1/2 years that I have not been properly maintaining but am planning a strategy for bringing it back to full health and wanted your opinions/suggestions on how to proceed.
<good to hear and glad to share>
My problem is persistent BGA and Hair algae and a die off of purple
coralline.
<its all about nutrient control and stable levels (dosing and water changes) of bio-minerals. You will solve these problems very soon>
My parameters are the following:
Temp=82
Salinity=1.023
pH=8.3-8.4
Alkalinity=10dkH w/SeaBuffer added accordingly
Calcium=330ppm w/Kent Calcium additive
Magnesium=1300ppm
Ammonia=0
Nitrites=0
Nitrates=20-30ppm
Phosphate=0.9ppm
Lighting=2x96w CF, on for 15 hours daily
<lets stop here and address a few issues. The alkalinity is fine and if kept stable, is not an issue with the corallines. The calcium is a bit low but not a problem if not for the fact that the additive you are using is likely a calcium chloride product. These are not easily used long term and safely. They impart chloride ions that accumulate and complicate calcification after a year or so depending on the water change schedule (perhaps part of the problem with your corallines). Only use liquid calcium or turbo calcium pellets for a quick fix. Kalkwasser is best for daily use and has a long list of benefits over all others. Your phosphate is getting scary high! It is no doubt the fuel if not cause of your BGA. Water changes and aggressive protein skimming will temper this. Test your source water to see that it does not have much or any phosphate in it. Your phosphate mostly came from feeding likely. And lastly, 15 hours is too long for most lights and if these bulbs are older than 6-10 months (their useful lifespan) then they have strayed in color to the warm end of the spectrum and are only helping to grow nuisance algae. Change the bulbs please if so.>
Sand Bed=3" of 1/2 silica sand and 1/2 Caribbean aragonite sand
Filtration=Overflow into a 10gal sump/refugium w/NO 50/50 bulb, bag of carbon, 2" of Caribbean sand, with a Dolphin 800 pumping the return water Skimmer=Berlin Classic w/Mag 700, producing about 1/2 cup olive green skimmate every 5 days
<much improvement needed here. You can easily skim a cup per day. If the tank was not rich in dissolved organics you could still do this 3-5 times weekly (full cup) minimum. We get a ton of complaints on this among several prominent skimmer brands. If you can get this thing to skim daily,... tell us how?!?! Else, consider upgrading to a Euroreef or Aqua C. Even Tunze makes a great little skimmer for about $110 (see customaquatic.com) for a 40 gallon tank that will be fine here>
Fish: 1-4" Yellow Tang , 1-4" Hepatus Tang, 1-3" Maroon Clown, 1-1" Azure Damsel, 1-2" Royal Gramma, 1-2"Pseudochromis
Inverts: 3 Mushroom Rocks, 2 Snake Polyps, 2 Brown Polyps, 3 red/green open brain, Blastomussa merleti, candy cane coral, and what's left of some yellow polyps after the hair algae choked them.
<Hmmm... an indication of weak water flow. Do consider if you have reef-appropriate 20X tank per hour flow overall (1000+ gph here)>
Feeding: 1 frozen cube of Spirulina or marine supreme daily with Spirulina strips or mysis shrimp every other day
<another problem... after you thaw your frozen food (shrimp especially) do you strain the meat and discard the juice? If not... its a terrible source of fuel (proteins/dissolved organics) for your algae and other nuisance organisms>
I attribute the problem with using dechlorinated tap water for water changes and for replacement (evaporation is 1gal every 4-5 days)
<not even close to being your problem bud. Impurities through tap water are grossly overstated>
since I found Aq Pharm. Tap Water Purifier too costly for only about 25gal (Plan on purchasing a 4-stage RO/DI system in a few weeks).  The cost factor of a RO/DI has prevented me from purchasing it sooner (IRS Refund, hooray!)
<a better skimmer will be a much more effective and necessary investment.>
I have also had a gradual but complete die-off of my snails and crabs.  I have hesitated on replacing them due to the poor tank conditions and the high cost at LFSs, but am seriously considering mail-ordering some emerald crabs, Nassarius and Trochus snails
<skip the emerald crabs and go for the later two mollusks>
once I start using the RO/DI water. My thought is to scrub all the algae off of the rocks and rinse in fresh sea water.
<not necessary... can actually be rid from the tank in 2 weeks or less through a good water change or two and a skimmer that actually produces daily like it should. No scrubbing necessary>
I don't know what to do about the sand bed.  Should I siphon for algae and detritus on just the surface, go deeper, or remove/replace it.  
<nothing until you step up water changes and get a better skimmer... too great a risk of liberating a lot of pollution. Best to leave it tied up as it is for now. Better water flow and better skimming in the future will export it naturally>
I'm working off of the assumption that the calcium bound to the phosphate has precipitated and saturated the sand bed and any future depletion of the calcium levels in the tank may re-release the phosphate.  
<nominal... I don't think you were using calcium hydroxide to fully enjoy this benefit>
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Glenn Koenig
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Reef spawning event
I have a 54 corner tank set up for salt water which has been set up for more than 3 years with an Eheim filter and CPR back pack protein skimmer and 2 power head in tank.
The tank consists of 30 some pounds of live rock 1 long tentacle anemone and two commons with pink tips, several crabs and snails and one black and white percula which lives in the long tentacle.
Last night I saw thousands of what appeared to be eggs of some sort floating around the tank and after I explored further it appeared that they were coming out of one of the common anemones.  Some of the round egg like things were grouped together in strands and some were loose.  The clown sure did seem to enjoy them!  After this "stuff" settled down the anemone shrank
down, but this morning looks just fine and is fully (inflated).
Please advise if this stuff could be toxic or if this is some sort of egg that this anemone was releasing?
Thank you for the great web site and I look forward to a response.
Best Regards, Michael J. Bukosky
<Sounds like a spawning event!  Pretty cool! Maybe take some photos? These may be toxic to other fish, but I don't know for sure. I doubt they will harm anything. I would just sit back and enjoy the experience!  If they seem to cause a problem, perhaps net them out?  I wouldn't worry.  Have fun!  Craig>

Reef Tank Troubles PLEASE HELP ME
Hello Again
<Hello, Eric. JasonC here...>
I took your advice, and the tank came down last Friday, all my animals are in some 10 gallons. Yesterday, I added an algae blenny and a sand sifting star (newly bought) to the tank.  The blenny is doing fine, but the starfish was exhibiting strange behavior.  He didn't move until I turned the full spectrum light out, the he let a smoke like thing out of the top of his center. <Could be spawning, but I'd be surprised. These seastars aren't really good reef inhabitants as they tend to eat all the beneficial stuff in the sand bed.> By this morning he had moved very little.  When I picked him up to make sure he was alive, the smoke came out of the bottom. <Could be unhealthy... do keep an eye on it.> He hasn't moved much since then. <Not a good sign... these should at the very least bury themselves.> I also received a green star polyps rock that had been on special order and I had to pick it up.  I put it in the coral 10 gallon but it was getting stung by the colt and was directly under the filter pump.  I moved it to the main tank. When should I except him to open? <It depends on how long and carefully you are acclimating these specimens.> Thank you very much for getting me to take the tank apart and start over.
Thanks,
Eric
<Cheers, J -- >

200 Gal Reef Prob.s
I have a 200 gallon reef tank that is running a 35 gallon refugium, a second sump the refugium overflows into where 2 Berlin skimmers are placed and the occasional bag of carbon to clear the water, there is some were around 250 lbs of Fiji live rock and a 3" substrate of aragonite live sand.  That is the filtration turning about 1600 gph, good so far? 
<yes... if those skimmers actually produce skimmate consistently. Some common complaints about that design/brand>
The lighting is four 175w 6,500K metal halides that if you split the tank in 4ths there is a MH directly above each forth (if you get what I'm saying),  there are four 48" fluorescent tubes 2 being 10,000K and 2 being actinics, and also 2 36" 50/50 fluorescent tubes.  The MH are 12" above the open water and are on 10 hours
<they should be closer to the water but one for slightly less time for better efficacy. Say... 6- 9" of water surface and on for perhaps only 8-10 hours>
and the 6 fluorescent tubes are on 14 hours a day coming on 2 hours before and going off 2 hours after the MH.  Is this good so far?
<reasonable overall>
I also have to penguins and a Rio for additional water movement. 
<20X tank turnover? at least 10-15X... do consider>
The inhabitants are 2 tangs, and some damsels and various other inverts (not totally stocked yet, want to get corals doing well first).  Now to my Cnidarians and their problems.  The "livings" ones are 4 different kinds of mushrooms which reside on the bottom of the rock pile, doing fairly well, a crocea clam on the bottom sand which look absolutely beautiful (open, colorful, and full),
<be sure to bury a rock underneath it for protection from predators>
a small colony of button polyps half way down the pile and between the 2 middle MH's and looking quite well.  Now for the problem ones.  I bought a thick stem xenia, a hammer coral, green open brain, and a green bubble coral at the same time as the other corals.  I am wanting to have a few LPS corals and basically mushrooms and polyps reef tank, no Acroporas.  The xenia's looked bad on arrival and perished, the hammer looked great the first 2 days and the wasted away, the open brain wasted away slowly over 2 weeks, and the green bubble is still going but slowly still wasting away.  What am I doing wrong? 
<lack of quarantine for starters. Never place a new fish or coral directly in the tank without 2-4 weeks in isolation first. As you may have learned. one sick coral can sicken or kill many other healthy ones. Do read in our archives about QT protocol>
My water chem. is great (grav. 1,025, 8.3PH, and the rest are zeros, temps is around 78).  I am guessing it may be the lighting.  Is it to strong for these corals? 
<unlikely... but acclimation is always an issue (read the "acclimatization" article in the invertebrates archived section here at Wetwebmedia.com too>
Should I raise the MH's higher than 12" ?
<not at all... you already may not have enough light from this rig. On the web, Sanjay Joshi has published some great research about this dynamic>
Shorter MH photo period. 
<likely helpful>
The corals mention I put at around mid level also and I figured since they were higher light corals would grow closer to the lights. 
<reasonable placement>
I acclimated normally, and then left my lights totally off for 12 hours and them slowly introduced them to light using short photo periods and also used screens on the top and removed them over the coarse of a few days. 
<awesome!>
Is my lighting to strong. 
<very unlikely... perhaps water chemistry. What is your Alkalinity level? Calcium level? Salinity?>
I hope I have given you enough info.  Thanks for any help you can give.  I am not intro ducing any more corals till this is figured out.
<agreed... best regards, Anthony>

- Setup Questions -
Hi WWMCrew,
<Hello, JasonC here.>
Let me start by thanking you for this wonderful service and timely feedback!
I'm having a difficult time getting my pH above 8.2.  The only reason I'm concerned is because I was told Xenia prefer 8.3.  I'm currently dosing Kalk every night and adding buffer 2 to 3 times a week.  Do you have any suggestions for getting my pH up? <Try dosing the Kalk in the morning, when pH is the lowest. You might also want to investigate adding some buffer - either baking soda or a commercial buffer which will replenish your system's ability to stabilize pH.>
On a side note, I've included information about my setup.  I'm thinking of adding activated carbon (Chemi-Pure) to this setup (currently I use Poly-Filters for chemical filtration, but I don't think it is enough). <Your skimmer is plenty good... you don't need tons of chemical filtration unless you are having a problem with chemicals. Running activated carbon for a week, once a month or so would be fine. Poly filters are a great product, but you will go broke using them if that is all you use.> Can you please read through my setup and give me suggestions (things I should add, remove)?
TANK:
30-gallon glass
LIGHTING:
96 watt SmartLamp (50% 10,000K / 50% actinic lamp)
14-hour photoperiod
CHEMICAL FILTRATION:
AquaC Remora hang-on skimmer w/Maxi-Jet 1200 (located in sump)
Poly-Filter (dropped into sump)
BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION:
35 lbs live rock
40 lbs of Nature’s Ocean Bio-Active Live Aragonite
Wet/Dry filter (in process of removing bio-balls)
MECHANICAL FILTRATION:
Hang-on overflow with sponge pre-filter
CIRCULATION:
2 Mini-Jet 606 pumps (located at opposite sides of tank, pointing at each other)
Cap 2200 800 gph return pump
TEMPERATURE CONTROL:
Ebo-Jager - TS 100 watt heater
MONITORS/PROBES:
Pinpoint pH Monitor
Rid-Volt Grounding Probe
SALT:
Instant Ocean (thinking of switching to Reef Crystals)
ADDITIVES:
Kent Kalkwasser Mix - added nightly <Should do this less often.>
Kent Superbuffer dKH - added weekly <And perhaps do this daily.>
Kent Super Iodine - added weekly <You should test to make sure you need to add this.>
Kent Coral-Vite - added weekly
Kent Essential Elements - added weekly
ESV B-Ionic Calcium Buffer - not yet being used <Typically you should be adding this on a daily basis... but do test to be sure.>
SOURCE WATER:
Kent - 35 HI-S Maxxima R/O Unit (4 stage)
FOOD:
OSI Flake Marine
OSI Flake Spirulina
Kent Marine Zoe
San Francisco Bay Brand, Inc. - Marine Cuisine
WATER CHEMISTRY:
Temperature = 76 degrees Fahrenheit
Salinity = 1.025
pH: 8.1
LIVESTOCK:
1 Turbo Snail
1 Clarkii
2 Blue-Green Chromis
1 Peppermint shrimp
Waving hand Xenia
Green Star Polyps
Sarcophyton sp., Toadstool
I want to add more clean-up animals (snails, crabs, etc).  Can you offer any suggestions?  Should I add Hermit Crabs, if so, does it matter what color (blue, red, brown)? <I would skip the hermit crabs and instead go for Nassarius snails. Much better at cleaning up, and won't rob other shell-dwelling animals of their shells.>
Thanks for your time and patience,
Jeremy G
<Cheers, J -- >

Tanks, They Are A- Changin'!
Hi Guys,
<Scott F. with you today!>
Love the site.  I had three questions.  I'm currently running a small Berlin system in a 50 gal. Uniquarium (~35 gal tank, 15 gal sump), 30 lbs live rock,  in sump skimmer, sea gel for carbon, 96W SmartLight.  All I have for tank members are I small yellow tang, 1 Lysmata cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 5 LH blue legs, 3 scarlet hermits, and 5 Turbos.  Fish load will increase once in place.  The tank has been running for 6 months now.
I'm going to move the tank upstairs to its permanent location.  What is the best way to do this?  I was planning on using new Rubbermaid trash cans to move the bulk of the water, and transport the LR in 5 gal buckets.  The live stock would be temporarily housed in a small tank.  I plan on doing this in a couple of hours ( I hope that's realistic!).  Any advice would be helpful.  
<I like your approach. I'd definitely allow plenty of time for the procedure...no sense rushing things...>
After the tank is in place, I plan on adding 2" of washed aragonite.  Do I need to keep everything out until the dust settles, and will this harm any of the hard corals polyps, and small fanworms on the LR?  Hints would be great.
<I'd go for 3 inches or more here. Better for its denitrification capabilities. And I'd wait a day or so to allow the "dust to settle".>
I'm still having problems with diatom outbreaks.  I was planning on upgrading my cleaners to GARF's 30 gal cleanup crew, but any other hints?  I perform 10 - 20% water changes every two weeks with water made up with R.O.  pH is 8.3, and nitrates are <15 ppm.  
<I'd try smaller (like 5%) water changes twice a week. Be very aggressive with the protein skimming; try to get the skimmer to produce at least a cup of dark, yucky skimmate a couple of times a week. Stay with the good husbandry approaches, and you'll definitely see the nuisance algae start to subside. It's all about nutrient export..>
Would I be able to use the sump in the back as a refugium?  Do you know anyone who has done this, and if so how?
<Yep. You can position a small plastic container, such as a "breeding trap" for livebearers, position it in the middle compartment, throw in a little macroalgae, such as Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha, a few amphipods, position a small florescent light over that section, and you've got an instant "semi-refugium". BTW-you can position a small external skimmer, such as an Aqua C Remora, outside of the first compartment...easy!>
Finally,  Do you know of anyone who runs a combination of PC and VHO?  I want to increase the wattage for reef inhabitants, but MH would probably heat the tank up too much , and I don't know if another 96W PC would be the way to go.  I was thinking about adding two 95W VHOs, which I hope would allow me to keep just about anything barring any SPS or Clams.  Any suggestions would be great. Thanks again for your help, Chris in St. Louis
<Well, Chris- I have not personally seen this combination before...I'm sure it will work...but I'd stick with one or the other, if for no other reason than you won't have to shop for several different types of bulbs when replacement time comes! Either system, when applied correctly, can work with SPS corals...In the long run, the best lighting for SPS is metal halide, however, so you may want to consider that...Have fun "tweaking" your system...Be creative- go for it! Regards, Scott F>

Re: lighting and green algae
Hi Craig,
Thanks for the information.  I just got an RO/DI system to filter my water, though I have only had it a week.  Before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals filter for my filtration system.  
<Should be good water!>
I feed frozen enriched mysis and brine shrimp, add Kent MicroVert food and coral Vite, have changed the carbon in the filter last week, though you have a very good point about cleaning the sponges more frequently :) and I just set up the protein skimmer about a week ago after my CPR BakPak pro died on me.  The nitrate levels just went up because the protein skimmer overflowed and I had to replace almost 40 gallons of water all at once : ( and it was a slight shock to the system - before that happened the nitrate was 0.0 and I have 2 phosphate pillows in the Filstar to try to eliminate that problem (it seems to be working).  Could you tell me what LS/LR stands for?
<Live Rock and Live Sand. The more the better. I would pay some attention to your substrate. Type in "live Sand" in the google search engine on WetWebMedia.com>
I don't mean to sound dumb but I am not up on all of the abbreviations.  Also, do you know anything about Bionic w/ calcium (an additive a friend told me about) to help with the growth of coralline algae? Thanks lots and lots, Andrea
<B-Ionic is an ionically balanced alkalinity and calcium supplement. It is an excellent product for smaller aquariums but expensive. You may want to look into Seachem reef calcium (Calcium Gluconate) and dripping Kalkwasser as your top off. Make sure you test calcium/alkalinity/pH, etc. to determine usage/need before dosing supplements. Have fun!  Craig>

100 gallon Set Up
Hi All! After several years of not doing much I decided to get back into the hobby. I did have a 55 gallon reef with crushed coral and live rock (NOT ANY MORE). I know have a 100 gallon pre drilled, built in overflow box with wet dry underneath. I have two 1200 maxi jets and a 600 maxi jet currently in the tank. I have several other maxi jets if you think I should add some more. I also have an Emperor 400 on the back. I have a UV sterilizer (Double pass)
running - 25 watt, the return line from my sump to tank is being run by a Rio 2500. I currently have a custom sea life ) I think that's the name - same maker as my wet dry - so maybe its just sea life) skimmer running. I have VHO lighting and may add a fan. I have a 40 gallon QT tank. I currently have about 45 lbs of Fiji live rock cured in the tank but I have two vats running
with cheap Berlin updraft skimmers and several power heads and air stones curing 70 more lbs of rock (Lalo live rock) oh vats and tank are heated. I just purchased an RO/DI system and I use tropic Marin salt. I also have OSMO to treat water prior to adding in the salt to my mixer vat. Is there anything else I should add or use prior to ever adding fish?
<Sounds like you've just about got it. Now add a generous dose of patience as you wait for the cycling to finish and more patience between fish additions>
Other than the live rock once its cured -I know I could have added the live rock prior to curing but its easier for me to do water changes on the rock in the smaller vats.
<Understood>
I do  10% water changes on the tank weekly. Thinking of adding a wave maker pro if you think they work or is it all just hype?
<I don't care much for any of these wave maker devices. They are tough on powerheads. If you're going to use one, just get a cheap wavemaker strip for $30-40>
My water looks and tests great right now but thought I'd see if you think I am doing this correct before I get too far along.
<I think you're doing fine. Before you stock the tank, get a good book and research critters before purchase...and be patient>
Great informative site by the way. One of a kind!
Thanks, Steve G
<I think you're on the road to success! Keep reading and learning. David Dowless>

Working on a reef tank 55 gallon! need help!!
I currently have a 55 gallon that has been set up about 7 months. Fish only sold fish about a month ago wanting to go reef!!. Bought 50 pounds live rock off the internet. I have 2 Penguin bio wheels 330gph  running my system.
<for long term success... phase out the bio-wheel and add another 30-50 lbs of rock... or simply keep less fishes and corals in the future, but still pull the bio-filters (nitrate production)>
Plus sea clone skimmer
<if you can get this thing to produce daily dark skimmate please tell somebody. The rest of the free world finds this model to be poorly designed. Do consider a skimmer upgrade to an Aqua C or Euro-reef, maybe a Tunze>
and a 300penguine power head and a 160 power sweep power head. total gallons per hour turn over is 1,120 gallons per hour.
<Hmmm... yes, but weakly delivered if including the bio-wheels. A stringer pump(s) will be required for dedicated water flow with most corals>
plus I had 12 pounds of live rock when I started so I have 62 pounds premium Fiji live rock. my ph is 8.2 my ammonia is 0 my nitrites is 0 and my nitrates is 0 and calcium is 400 because I dose with Kent's calcium.
<please read through archives about the limitations and dangers of using calcium chloride (liquid or turbo calcium). Kalkwasser and/or a calcium reactor would be a much better long term solution>
here is my problem my alkalinity is 17 when it should be  8 to 11 how do I bring this down???
<water changes and dilution would be the best/easiest and most gentle way>
any help would be appreciated .. I use water out of the tap with a  Dechlor. that's what my local fish store uses on there reef tank . Thank for the help if any .. Jeff Ferguson
<best regards, Anthony>

Re: a bad night - ammonia, bubbles, noise
Anthony thanks for your continued support in the matter of the large, moving 115 gal tank.  Things are better, but not yet good.
<good to hear>
2 more questions:1.  I have 4 crabs, 5 snails, 1 sand sifting star living as you recommended in a little bucket in my sump.  I change the water 2x/day.  
<excellent... and if you don't mind this effort... it will buy you al the time you need in wait for the rock/sand to calm down>
I don't know what to feed them, I am afraid the crabs are eating the starfish.  (I tried mysis shrimp and Spirulina flake, but I know they don't really eat that stuff)
<the crabs will eat literally anything you put in... no worries there. The Spirulina flakes or pellets are a good guess for the snail and star. If they take them, it will be fine for weeks. Else, try Nori seaweed from an oriental food store (used on sushi... ask for plain green unspiced)>
Do you think it would be ok to put them in my main reef (37gal with already some snails, crabs, serpent star) for a couple of weeks?  
<I would avoid it... need at least 2 weeks in isolation>
Do you quarantine this type of animal?  
<to be safe... anything wet (plants, algae, fish, coral, crabs, etc) should be quarantined for 4 weeks....2 weeks bare minimum. If you add 100 creatures without QT over a period of 3 years and 99 are perfectly healthy... that one carrier can still wipe your tank out with disease, infection, etc. Everything should be put through QT without exception for at least 2 weeks>
(I never did when I added mine, but that was 2 years ago before I was fully committed to quarantine everything.)
<understood my friend... I have done the same of curse. Often safely... but still a risk>
That's a large burden to add all at once (these snails are monstrously huge) and I don't want to mess up my perfectly fine reef, but it seems like this big tank is going to fully cycle -- NH3 is 1.2 and rising, still no NO2 and minimal NO3.  Looks like the bacteria has been pretty well depleted, sigh.
<no worries... keep skimming aggressively and do water changes as necessary to keep the chemistry from straying too far>
2. Is there anything I should be feeding these pitiful little yellow mushrooms during their ammonia bath?  
<dissolved organics in the tank from fishes and corals fed is helpful just incidentally. Do experiment in the meantime with tiny bits of meaty food placed on few individuals to see if they will eat>
Or should I just wait it out and start feeding at the end if there are any survivors?
<resist only if the ammonia and nitrite stay high>
Good news:  the skimmer is functioning.  Miracle of miracles.
<Hallelujah and pass the ammunition!>
Thanks Tracy :)
<glad to hear the progress, dear. Best regards. Anthony>

New Reef/Mixed Setup Circulation Question
Dear WetWebCrew, First off, I would just like to thank you for providing such an excellent source of information for people such as myself who are not nearly as enlightened on the subject as yourselves are. I've been reading you site for months now, just trying to educate myself to the best of my ability so that
my first reef will not be an incredible waste of time, money, energy and most importantly: fish.
<great to hear, my friend... keep learning, sharing and growing>
Finally, it is done. I set up my 40 gallon tank with 22 pounds live rock, live sand, a CPR backpak2R skimmer, 2 Rio 800's (powerheads) and lighting provided by 1 50/50 actinic florescent and 1 white florescent bulb. My question is regarding circulation, which the fine people at my local pet store have been able to offer me little to no explanation on.
<let us offer you an article on the subject:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm >
Right now, I have one powerhead in the front of the tank, towards the top on the left side and the other is in the rear of the tank, towards the bottom on the right. Both are pointing towards one another near the center of the tank.
<cool... random turbulent flow>
I do understand that circulation if very important to reefs but since I wish to have several fish as well, I am concerned about them having to "fight against the current".
<most fish are used to reef currents... much stronger than the aquarium>
Right now I have three damsels in, and they seem to go everywhere else in the tank except the middle where the two powerheads are converging. They get there and seem to have to fight to go no where.
<we call it exercise <G>>
My question is, how should I arrange/direct the powerheads so that
that reef will take full advantage of water circulation, but will not prevent the fish from swimming around freely without need of an onboard motor to fight the current.
<there is no easy answer here... your individual rockscape changes the dynamics of flow... you need to simply experiment>
Also, any good inverts you would recommend to help get that tank started that are hardy yet pleasant to look at?
<brittle and serpent starfish (except green brittle- aggressive) are hardy, fun and useful>
How long should I wait to start adding inverts? I've read anywhere from 3 weeks to a few months.
<a month after all live rock has been added... the tank should be stable>
Finally, currently I'm adding in Kent Marine Calcium buffer
(parts A and B), is there anything else you feel may be vital to my tank?
<iodine and water changes>
What about Kalkwasser?
<may not be necessary if you keep the tank balanced with the 2-part mix (shake well before every use to prevent misdosing from separations)>
Much appreciated and Happy New Year, Robert Benson--
<best regards, Anthony>

New Reef
Greeting to everyone. Before I ask for your help I would like to express my warmest wishes for a  happy, peaceful and healthy 2003 to everybody. I have bothered you before in the past, and as it looks I am not through troubles yet.
<no worries, and Happy New Year to you too!>
I have finished setting up my first 150 gallon reef tank. I have 10 cm of Live aragonite sand, Instant Ocean salt, Lifereef sump, protein sk, etc.....
<all a very good start>
Three weeks ago I "started" the tank (remember my case? I'm the one who added the salt after the LR, sand, RODI water IN THE TANK!!!!!!! )
<yikes, yes... do recall :)  >>
Well everything is ok now. Problem is I have only added about 10 kg of LR since I'm still waiting for the rest from the LFS. For three weeks I have the Protein on (Of course there is nothing to skim yet)
<whoa... stop the presses. The skimmer should still be producing something. You have live rock in the tank, the tank grows algae, the algae is scraped or grazed off, etc... there should be something skimmed.... even if only weekly instead of daily. I mention this so that you do not lose ground thinking the skimmer is adjusted correctly when the bio-load does get heavier. Even tanks without a single organic specimen in them yet (newly set up) still have carbonates skimmed out in a chalky skimmate with a good skimmer in the first day! I's sure your skimmer needs adjusted here>
the pumps and almost everything on (except the calcium reactor and the lights.)
<understood and agreed>
I use the Salifert test kits and mostly measure for Ammonia, but I don't detect anything. I added couple of times some fish food (pellets) to help the cycle but still nothing. Tank water is really clear now. Sand is bright white, but no Ammonia.
<could just be good/cycled live rock taking care of it for you>
First week I left the lights on ( 2 X 250 MH and 2 X 60 actinic blue) for about 9-11 hours. Ok too fast too soon. I got some brown algae on some rocks and on the sand. I closed the lights and now after 2,5 weeks the algae is almost gone.
<hmmm... but it didn't get skimmed out so it must be somewhere. Now it is dissolved as organics and will feed a new algae bloom when the lights come back on unless skimmed>
I'm now afraid of turning the lights On again, also rock is now having some purple spots in some areas. What should I do ?
<if the purple is hard it is likely coralline algae and is desirable. Encourage its growth with water changes and the calcium reactor>
is it possible to have been through the cycle without realizing it ?
<sort of... the rock may simply have been good quality>
My specs are
Temp steady at 26 Celsius
PH 8,2 -8,3
ORP 340
Salinity 1,024-1,025
calcium 240 (No calcium yet)
<understood... all fine except that calcium... scary low. Please do a water change and get that calcium reactor running albeit slowly. No reason not too>
Also I have not added any type of nutrient or Trace elements yet. (just flake food twice, for the bacteria ) Also nitrite and Nitrate are not detectable as well. I will be adding some 40 kg of LR in the first 10 days of January. Maybe the cycle will start then ?
<biological filters only grow to the load put upon them. In the absence of fishes and regular feeding... the filter will never grow large/strong. Wait a total of one month with good live rock... once readings are all clear, do add fish slowly (1-2 monthly at most after 4 week quarantine)>
The is much turbulence in the water (4X1200 maxi PH, three return lines, one through a sea swirl.) Still curios why the tank looks so clear now.
<the rock has come through very fine>
After the initial accident with the salt the tank calmed down, and for two weeks looked ok. There was some white foam in the skimmer (probably from the salt) but now even that is gone. Everything is so clear even the skimmer (there is very little white foam now). Is all that normal?
<nope... indeed an adjustment to be made. Tanks in my coral farming greenhouse had little or no fishes and were never fed heavily (if at all)... and I still got daily skimmate from the snails harvesting normal brown diatom algae off the glass an rocks>
An advise from a friend is that probably it hasn't started the cycle yet.
<not likely... even the worst live rock become soundly biological quickly... after 4 weeks is rather well>
I should add all the LR remaining and maybe a couple of fish to help it cycle.
<agreed... rock first though then 2 weeks before fishes>
I have a quarantine tank ready in case it gets very unpleasant for the fish.
<Hmmm... not sure I understand here. Use the QT tank properly with fish first (4 weeks) and rock can go into the main tank during. QT is for preventing problems, not just damage control after/during a problem>
Should I do that. Also what about water changes. When should I attempt the first one?
<monthly minimum 25%... weekly 10%  or more is better)
Waiting for your reply. Best Regards Kostas
<best regards, Anthony>

Cycling, pH/kH adjusting
Hey guys, I have a few quick questions about water quality in a new 150gal FOWLR setup.  I added cured LR and tested ammonia, nitrites, nitrates 2 and 5 days after, they were all 0 both times.  Is it possible for it to have cycled this quickly?
<yes, indeed... if the rock you acquired was mature, cycled (cured) and substantive (I'd say at least 100-150 lbs here), then you may have just experienced one of the wonders of living substrates (rock and sand). Play it safe and wait 2 full weeks before adding fishes or invertebrates. If nothing by then, you are likely fine and can begin stocking slowly>
I'm anxious to add the first fish but think it's strange that I haven't seen any measurements on those.
<understood and agreed. Do take a water sample to a friend or LFS to test with a different brand of test kit to confirm>
Also, my pH is 8.0 and kH about 4.  
<the pH needs to be a little higher, the Alk is SCARY low. Be sure to raise that (slowly) to 8-12 dKH before adding livestock>
I know my local water is very soft but thought the substrate (aragonite) and salt would buffer it.  
<true to a large extent, but it sounds like your source water is exceptionally soft>
What else should I use?  
<start with small amounts of common baking soda>
I have some CaCO3 or baking soda but am not sure if I can use these the same way I did for freshwater. Thanks a lot!
Mike
<absolutely my friend! You are doing fine! Best regards, Anthony>

Reef Saga
Anthony, Ok here is yet another question for you.  Would the addition of more live rock and a 3"+ deep substrate bed outweigh the loss of water volume?  
<add the sand if you need denitrification, else no worries>
I've not room for a sump. I've intentionally kept the amount of rock in the tank moderate and was going to drop the sand bed to 3/4" per your advice.
<very fine if nitrate control is not needed>
Hm never knew Mithraculus would get to 4"!  I have seen 2" specimens but have read that it is a rare specimen at that size.  So emeralds will feast on clams?  
<heehee... my friend, this is the third mention and I cannot be any clearer: ALL crabs are essentially opportunistic predators. All species. Indeed there are no absolutes, but in this case, the overwhelming majority of animals in this group can fairly be categorized as such. If hungry enough, any so-called herbivorous species will readily take meaty living prey unlike some fishes for example that will simply starve to death before eating coral/clams. Look at those claws... form follows function.>
My dwarf hermits I know might pick at it if not kept well-fed,
and in that case I was planning on keeping a sharp eye out.  
<"Sharp eye"?!? Are you on crack <G>? You sleep and work for two thirds of every day away from the tank. If you have no other life that only leaves a third of your day to watch the tower. They are not waiting for you to misbehave. Seems like a haphazard way to run a reef when nutrient control is more effective for algae control <G>>
I imagine an emerald if it chose to could do a lot of damage in a very short amount of time though, especially compared to my hermits.
<now you are thinking my friend... just look at the claws.. form follows function>
Learn something new every day!  In this conversion/case many new things! Always, always something to learn and I am glad for it.
Not currently running carbon on my tank.  
<without carbon, ozone, or weekly large water changes (even that is not perfect)... how do you maintain water clarity for light penetration for coral? Hmmm... its a big deal... do pick one or more of the above options>
I do have a Magnum 350 laying around I could set up, and the flow from it isn't too bad.  Should actually help, if I can get all the powerheads in a fashion that doesn't directly beat on my anemones.  Hmm carbon + poly in the Magnum 350 is actually
starting to sound attractive.  It might be enough in case of a major death in the tank to give me time to get home from work and do a water change before the water deteriorated so badly as to cause a complete tank crash. Hmmmmm.  Will have to seriously consider this.
<indeed likely to be helpful, unless the magnum and those powerheads create heat problems in the tank... then you'll need to rethink the whole sump and cool running return pump notion>>
The clams will help with nutrient export as well.  Might have to hurry and acquire some from eastcoastclams.  :)
<OK>
What I meant specifically was:  Is there anything I can do to reduce surface film?
<ahhh, yes. In my book and in the WWM archives somewhere I described a modified internal horizontal overflow modification to tremendously improve surface skimming>
No QT tank here.  
<very frustrating to hear>
I've only had two fish for this tank and don't plan on
adding anymore.  
<what about Pyramidellid snails on clams, flatworms from live rock, other diseases pests and predators from anything wet you add to the tank. Most people don't Qt and most people can't keep their aquatic pets for anywhere near a full lifespan because of the Russian roulette style of adding unquarantined livestock>
I do have an Eclipse 6 I could set up for the anemone. Stock lighting obviously wouldn't be enough but I might be able to place it in a window.
<could be interesting>
Destroying is generally not an option for me.  Flushing is reserved for dead or virtually dead specimens and I have always hated having to do it (kept freshwater for quite some time when I was younger).
<freezing for euthanasia is quite humane for the cold blooded... the aquatics- not you>
eh..  I am doing a lot of reading/research on the net concerning my plans for this little 20 of mine.  You must have way too much time to spend on a computer as well considering you tend to reply as quickly as I do.  hahaha
<actually, I lost a bet>
If I can't find a flat piece of rock I will cut some of my spare acrylic to give the clams a good anchor and to protect them from predation.
<yep... very fine>
I'm full of a lot of things, so I hear.  haha
<heehee...>
I will definitely pass on all knowledge to anyone who asks, as that is the only way to ensure this hobby can continue in an ethical and conscientious manner. Yet again, thank you for your time and sharing of knowledge! RVM
<best regards, Anthony>

A Penny for thought
Hi,
Just a quick question. a few weeks ago I found a penny in the bottom of my 55g. right now there is about 90lbs live rock, a damsel  , 71 Astrea snails and 4 peppermint shrimp. Tank has been set up four about 4 months with no
deaths. should I be worried about copper leaching out of penny? and if it did would have it already killed anything in the tank if it already did leach ? thanks so much, Chris   
<Well, it's just one penny... and the modern ones aren't just copper... and you haven't lost anything as you state. I think you're fine here. What little Cu+2 may have been released is gone. Bob Fenner>

Re: A Penny for thought
Thanks so much. Didn't think it would be a problem, but I just wanted to ask you guys. Finally a source to get accurate info.
<Glad to be here, of service. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help!!! (stocking, maintenance)
Sorry to bother you, but I need your help to know if I'm really on the right way or I throwing my money away. I'm an Italian boy from Rome
<I am an Italian boy from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania who has visited Rome twice. A beautiful place that I hope to take my wife and child back to see. I still have some family in Frosinone.>
and hopefully I read some news from your FAQ's and around the web and reading as much as possible on books and other materials. I have learnt the importance of right knowledge about all marine stuff and nitrites, nitrates, etc. The point is:
I have been running a Reef tank 100 gallons for a month and a half and gradually in this month I reached (with a great, huge effort) a complete Berlin system: so no biological filtration, no mechanical, a mighty skimmer (for tank up to 500 gallons, a Red Sea venturi skimmer with Eheim) and 80 kg (about 170 lb) of live rocks. The point is that after a week from the very beginning I tested the tank everyday and the values of Ammonia nitrites was perfect... a perfect zero! I added "CYCLE" for good bacteria. Nitrates was always 15-25 mg/l. Then after two weeks I started adding fishes and some invertebrate:
<A little early here. I prefer one full month to ensure full cycling and also to give the critters on the liverock time to repopulate before you add in the fish (predators).>
2 very small ocellaris, 1 Clarki, 1 frenatus,
<Mixing clownfish is almost always a bad idea. The aggression between individuals is usually too much for one of them.>
1 flavescens and an Amblygobius fasciatus, 1 Anemone for the clarkii (but when the frenatus came he lost his precious home),
<Anemones are categorically difficult for anyone and really cannot be recommended for beginners.>
3 Goniopora that sometimes fully open up and sometimes not.
<The Goniopora are also a poor choice. They tend to starve in our aquariums and die in about 6-12 months.>
The sand is a big coralline sand high only 2cm. 2 Interpet triton and 2 super actinic marine Glo.
<I don't know the wattage on your lamps or the dimensions of the tank, but I suspect your lighting maybe inadequate. Four fluorescent lamps on 100 gallons is a stretch.>
Frequent water changes and all the husbandry as if I had a child (seriously!). 1 or sometimes 2 times a day for feeding fishes with as little as I can of food. No nitrites, no ammonia, no phosphates, calcium 450 mg (perfect), adding iodine and strontium, testing water everyday, fishes healthy, invertebrates (I forgot a Lysmata) a little bit less. The Lysmata is wonderfully changed his size 2 times in this 1 1/2 month,  but the nitrates are still between 25 and 50 mg/l and every time I change water they lower down a little bit till 12-15 mg/l and the day after or two they return to 30 mg/l. I spent so much money. I spent a lot of money for the skimmer and the LR and two sumps under my tank for all this stuff plus a mini sump for water evaporation. I spent so much money for the RO for the water quality (no tap water) and I spend so much money for the best (so I've been told by books and experts) salt. WHY, WHY! Is it normal for a tank so young?
<No, I would bet you are overfeeding or under skimming. You have an appropriate size skimmer, but is it performing for you. You should need to empty and clean the cup every other day. If not, something is wrong with the installation or adjustment.>
Why denitrification isn't started in so much rocks (that's why I spent a fortune)?
<You may have some denitrification going on, but not enough.>
Is it only a commercial fiasco?
<I think you have made some bad decisions, but I would not give up yet.>
Or where did I go wrong?!!
<See above for my notes.>
Sorry for my emotional exploit but it's turning like a loosing battle against a ghost: NITRATES!
<No worries>
Thanks in advance. Hope to hear from you soon. Hope before I throw myself from my balcony with my tank on my back. (joking)
Best regards, Claudio from Rome, Italy
<Best of luck to you! -Steven Pro>

Re: reef Q's
WWM Staff,
I spoke with Steven Pro earlier today about my detritus problem. Is it produced by the fish in the tank?
<It is the end result of the breakdown of organic matter (food, feces, etc.).>
Will it decrease considerably by having no fish in the reef tank?
<It would decrease proportionally to reducing the bioload and the subsequent feedings, but will never go away completely.>
I've heard many people say that it's easier to maintain a reef without fish.
<There is a much greater diversity of plankton and worms with fish.>
Without fish, how often do you recommend performing water changes, or does it change at all?
<It would be about the same.>
Thank you in advance, Kyle  
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Reef beginner
Hi,
I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank. It was originally planned to be a fish only system until I realized how beautiful corals actually are. The tank has been running for about 4 months now and everything is doing great. My current livestock consists of:
1 Tank raised percula clown
3 green Chromis
2 cleaner shrimp
1 purple pseudo
1 trumpet coral
2 flower pots
<Ugh! You had a very nice collection of reef safe fish and a hardy coral until I got the Flower Pots, aka Goniopora.>
1 green hammer
5 polyp rocks
<A nice assortment overall, except for the above mentioned Goniopora. For additional information on these see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/poritidfaqs.htm>
Right now I am adding things slowly so everything stays balanced. I have a refugium underneath,
<Excellent!>
a pro SeaLife 150 wet/dry filter with built in skimmer,
<You may want to remove the bioballs (nitrate factory) and be sure the skimmer is producing dark skimmate almost daily. I clean mine every other day.>
a custom sea life UV sterilizer, and an Emperor 400 hang on filter with fully cultured BioWheels.
<You probably don't need nor want the BioWheels, but it looks like you need additional circulation.>
Also, one IceCap 660 with 4 URI VHO bulbs (2 10,000k and 2 actinics).
<I love the look of LPS corals and URI VHO's. Absolutely breathtaking!>
My question is this. I bought one bottle of Seachem Iodide, one bottle of Seachem Strontium, and one bottle of Kent liquid calcium.
<My question is this, can you return any of these?>
What is the best schedule for dosing these supplements and can any be done on the same day?
<First off, you don't need the Strontium and you don't want to use this type of calcium supplement. The Iodine is fine. For calcium, Kalkwasser or a good two-part, like ESV's B-Ionic will work.>
The directions say calcium every day, strontium twice a week, and the iodide every other day. I am considering Kalkwasser as well. Am I on the right track?
<You have veered off a little, but not too far.>
Thanks
<Keep reading and learning and you will do fine. -Steven Pro>

Saltwater smells bad
Inhabitants are: cleaner wrasse (1.5 years)
<Very unusual. This critter usually expires fairly quickly after acclimating. They hardly ever eat much of anything except parasites. Maybe you "...got struck by lightning" with this one. It does happen...but rarely>
Kole tang (6 years)
<6 years! Now we're talking!>
tomato clown (5 years), rose anemone (2 years), fox fish (1 year), purple pseudo (1month), 4 scissortail gobies (1.5 years), bicolor goby (8 mo.s), orange Linckia star
<Need to target feed this critter...frequently>
brittle star 1.5 years, anemone worm, several Turbos and red/left handed hermits, cleaner shrimp, coral banded shrimp. Corals:
cabbage soft leather, yellow devils hand, brown finger leather, several mushrooms, torch coral, button and colony polyps.
<This tank sounds gorgeous! The longevity of the critters that you name is what everyone should strive for. Many fish can live ten years or more. Keep doing what you're doing...it's working!>
Lighting: 288w 10K daylight, 288w actinic 03 on for a total of 11 hours but in a timed blue on, white on, white off, blue off fashion to replicate natural rise and set.  Bulbs replaced 11/02 in a staggering fashion over a 2 week period.
<Fabulous!>
Skimmer: AquaC EV90. I don't run anything in my sump with the exception of filter media.  Below the filter pad in the open sump I have a thin layer of 'mud' and several small sponges about 1/8 to 1/4 in with small holes all over and one hole (looks like an intake) with small hair like extensions around the opening.
<I'm not sure I like the mud and sponges. Pick some of it up and smell it. This very well could be where your smell is coming from>
These are on the heater, the glass, the power heads. everywhere, and they live with a few worms (bristle and fan) and seems like hundreds of little "bugs" (amphipods?).
<Copepods...most likely>
These bugs are tiny and clear and scurry when I turn the light on over the sump of aim a flashlight on the mud.
<Yep>
I am assuming they are harmless and possibly good?
<Very good! The fish will love them>
This is my dilemma, yesterday the sump water began to smell, kind of reminds me of when I cycled my rock in the garage (yuk) just not as strong. And today, my tank water also smells.  
<Check that mud and sponge stuff>
All fish, coral and inverts are doing fine and everyone is accounted for but the smell is getting stronger and the skimmer is skimming like it has been told this is its last meal?!?  
<Yeah...You need to be concerned. Something is wrong>
I can't figure out why my water smells so badly.  I plan to do a 25% water change today and clean the skimmer out but I want to know why this smell has seemingly come out of nowhere.  I cant imagine one snail dying that maybe I cant see smelling this badly...
<Nope>
I have had snails die in the tank before and never has it smelled this rotten.  I also don't know why my rock would suddenly re-cycle if that is what is causing the smell. The filter pad in the sump is new and I change it out about every 2 weeks or sooner if needed.
Apart from the lights I have only made one other change and that is I stopped feeding my fish frozen brine (was their daily staple...amazing to find it has no nutritional value...even more amazing they have flourished this long.)
<Egads! I'm glad you realized this...I am also amazed that have lived this long!>
and made a blender batch of my own food comprising of fresh
shrimp, squid, scallops, broccoli, red seaweed, some prime flakes, crab and baby vitamins) The first time I fed this was yesterday right after I mixed it up.  Could that be what is making my water stink?  
<Did you feed like...a lot? I mean...You accidentally poured in way too much?>
I didn't feed them any more than usual and actually, even less since there was no filler to the mix
<That settles that question>
I also add marine snow once a week for the filter feeders and I have smelled that and it smells fine.
<There are mixed accounts about this products usefulness>
I feed every day but in small quantities
<Good>
when I was feeding frozen brine I was feeding two standard frozen cubes is this too much?
<Not IMO>
Now that I plan to feed the homemade frozen I will feed what will
equal one cube because it is so dense.  Is this too little?
<I wouldn't want any of it to settle on the floor of the aquarium. You should only feed as much as the fish and inverts will eat>
I also supplement my algae eaters with purple and green seaweed (about a 2-3 inch strip) in a clip a couple of times a week but remove any uneaten food after 2-3 hours.  
<Once again...Sounds good>
I haven't fed them any seaweed in the past two days. How much and how often should I feed the tank with the homemade mix?
<Keep the regiment about like you were doing before switching to the homemade concoction>
Do I still need to supplement the homemade mix with food for the filter feeders?
<It all depends...If the homemade rations are in very small bits it ill be fine>
Should I be running carbon in my sump?
<Wouldn't hurt...With this bad smell that you are describing (does it smell like rotten eggs? I think I would want to add some carbon...soon>
What in the heck do you think is making my water stink so badly?
<It's hard to say...If it's a rotten egg smell it may be hydrogen sulfide which most often occurs with the use of a plenum. For sure I would do a series of substantial water changes over the next few days. If this were my tank, I would want the substrate more evenly spread out in the tank. Most people suggest either less than 1/2" or more than 4" throughout the tank. Are you sure none of the corals have died? Sometimes softies will look alive and be very dead...and no missing fish? With your skimmer producing so much skimmate, I would be looking for some kind of decay. Is your circulation brisk? Tank turnover more than 10 times per hour?>
Is my lighting sufficient to keep sps hard corals? (aqua cultured pink birds nest)
<May I suggest that you read our extensive collection of information on WetWebMedia. I feel good about you keeping low light LPS but SPS? I don't think your lighting will make it. Read our info on the site and decide for yourself>
And lastly...I have these things growing on my rock that I cannot ID can you please help me?  I am attaching a few pictures.  They grow at a decent rate and in total I have 7 and what looks like could be 2 new.  The 1st pic is with the flash and the other 2 are without.
<I'm sorry but your attachment didn't come through. No pics available>
I know this is a lot...but I wanted to give you as much info as possible hoping you can answer all of my questions.  I cant seem to find answers in my searches.
<No problem. It was my pleasure>
Thanks again, not only for any help you can give me specific to this email but for all the great feedback and knowledge you have given me through other posts.  I have learned so much, thank you all!
<You're more than welcome! I'm going to search our server and see if I can find those pics...David Dowless>

Going Natural!
Ok. I think I have decided to remove the bioballs from my 125 FOWLR setup before I get it started. After all the negative comments I am seeing on your site and many many other sites as well. Here is my current setup, see what
you think:
125 Gal All Glass
38 Gallon XH Refugium (100 GPH Flow Rate)
55 Gallon All Glass (Ref and Tank plumbed into it)
(2) 65 Watt PC lights White and two Blue
5" DSB Southdown with a sprinkle coat of friends Live bed
Also 5" DSB in Refugium along with 2 LOA 65 Watt PC lights
5' (4" Dia) DIY CC Protein Skimmer (Air Luft pump)
9 Watt Double Helix UV (turned off until cycle completes)
Eheim professional 2028 with only carbon and nitrate remover
(2) 5 gallon biotowers plumbed from 700 GPH tank overflows (goes  through Polyfilter first and then bioballs)
(2) MAG 7 Return pumps plumbed together
The tank has been on for a week now. I am in the midst of cycling and it contains no live fish yet. If I pull the biotowers, what can I do with the dual overflows outputs? Just dump them in to the open sump? Or I think I can plumb one of the overflows directly into the input of my DIY 5.5' tall protein skimmer, but I am afraid it will be to much flow for the skimmer to handle. Any ideas here?
<Yep- I like the idea of letting the water flow into the sump, then the protein skimmer can pull the organic laden water from there. I love PolyFilters, but they are not mechanical filter pads, so I would not put them in the overflows. I'd rather them in the return stream, after particulate matter and detritus have settled out. This way, they can more efficiently do their job>
I have read it is best to send direct unfiltered water into your skimmer and limit the flow to 100 GPH for my specific size skimmer. Is that true?
<Yes- the protein skimmer should pull in unfiltered water directly from the overflows, as this water will be from the top few inches of the tank, and laden with organics. This will greatly increase the efficiency of your skimmer. Flow to use depends on your specific skimmer's ability to process water. You may have to test and tweak to get it right.>
I also wanted to know if I should leave one of the bio-towers in place for a FOWLR tank until I get my live rock to the appropriate level?
<If it were me, at this stage of the game, I'd '86 all of the bioballs. Let that DSB and the rock that you have start doing the work. You'll be surprised how well these natural materials can do the job!>
I may even just bag the live rock and stick with just my 5" DSB and go with artificial coral instead. All depends on the budget I am allotted from the wife or even the biotope I decide on. Any ideas as to how I can do this and still keep it efficient?
<As above, I think that your DSB, once it really gets going, along with the existing rock, will do a great job. The refugium will be a lot of fun to watch as it develops. I think that you will be quite pleased with the progress your tank will make if you let things develop slowly and naturally!>
Thanks, again your help is truly appreciated, can't say it enough!
Tim
<Well, Tim- I hope that you have as much fun with your tank as I do being here for you! Let us know if you have any further questions! Good luck!  Scott F>

Treating Ich Naturally
Hey Crew...Ok having read much of your FAQs and writing to you previously regarding my Ich problem. I am decided in attacking it thusly and would appreciate your input;
Tank BIO: 150 REEF
SG: 1.024
Temp: 78-80
PH: 8 - 8.3
Asfur Angel
Sohal Tang
Potter's Angel
Pygmy Angler
Blue throat trigger
1. Gonna compliment the 3 cleaner shrimp with some gobies. How many do you think I need? Should I buy more cleaner shrimp too? Problem is that the Angler will eat the gobies...probably while trying to clean the poor frog!
<Possibly. They are pretty fast! You could go with two or three gobies and maybe five shrimp in 150 gallons. You will need to feed them, likely with your fish.
2. What Diatomaceous Filter do you recommend. Do they all work the same? Without endorsing can you just give me the first letter of the manufacturer you would use? Furthermore when should the filter be used?
<They all work more or less the same, some with a pleated paper filter that can eliminate the need to use diatomaceous earth in your marine tank (diatoms). Size, set-up and flow rate are other considerations you need to make. This isn't really necessary, IMO. Look at any of our fine WetWebMedia sponsors, they all stand behind their products.>
3. Tetra Medicated? I cant seem to locate this food.
<Try E-bay or your oldest local fish store. My fish store just stocked up with a new batch for $3.79 each, so they are still out there and well worth every penny. This alone can cure ick if it is the only food and your fish like it. Mine act addicted to it. The active ingredient is Metronidazole, or Flagyl, and it is a very effective antiprotozoal.>
4. Will also try that Kent Marine Garlic marinate.
<I'm not a big believer in garlic for ick and I wouldn't goof up the medicated food with an unknown.>
5. Where should I float my temperature and SG without damaging the Monti. Caps. and various Acro. Sp.?
<83F and no change to SG.  Hope this helps you out!  Craig>

New Reef Set-Up
Hi everyone.
<cheers, Kostas>
Once again I need your valuable help .
I started my first reef  tank as I have mentioned to you before.
I added RO-DI water for about 3 days ( it took a while to fill up).
<if you did not aerate and buffer this water before you salted it... please be sure to test for Alkalinity. It may be a little low (pH too... should be 8.3-8.5). If so... add some SeaBuffer or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in small amounts>
Before doing so I added the sand (100 kg of live sand) and the Live Rock (only 10kg) LFS didn't have any more will add more as soon as they bring.
<very well>
After the tank filled with water and already had the sand and the LR I added the salt!!!!!!
<oh no!!! My friend... if the LR and live sand were put into the fresh RO-DI water and then salt was mixed in... it killed a lot of the good microfauna. The freshwater and caustic nature of dissolving salt kills marine organisms. Please never mix salt in the aquarium!>
I also added some dechlorinator and some bacteria ( you know the ones sold in powder ) advised to do so from the LFS and the problem is that the tank has clouded a bit.
<the bacteria powder is a scam (false). It does work any better than putting a small piece of bread in the aquarium. No harm... but it is a waste of money. Some of the tank's cloudiness is normal on set up. But some of it is likely from the killed micro-organisms in the sand and live rock. Make sure your protein skimmer performs well everyday... and be prepared to do some water changes (say 25%)>
I don't know if it's from the salt or from the bacteria. I have four powerheads running all the time and out of the three return lines one is through a sea swirl.
<Ahhhh... the SeaSwirl is very nice!>
Although today it seems it might have cleared a little bit I don't know if this is normal or I have done something wrong.
<as per above my friend>
After all I added some more salt yesterday ( 2 kg) again to bring the salinity hopefully to 1,025-1,026 sg.
<it is a good salinity, but we must remember to never ever mix salt in an aquarium with life>
Will the above clear in a couple of days or have I done something wrong? Should I attempt a water change ?
<it is a minor set back. No worries... it will clear soon>
Temp is about 21 Celsius ( I forgot to add the temp command on the Aquacontroller ) so the temp would not rise, Took me two hours searching all the connections  why the heaters would not automatically operate. :-). Well now they are and hopefully will reach 25 Celsius soon.
<very good>
Also should I add any fish to help the cycle ? and if yes what type ?
<no fish until the water clears and the ammonia tests at zero. You can add more live rock at any time but cure it in a separate container or be assured that what you buy is fully cured. When you are ready... perhaps add some peaceful green/blue Chromis damsels... 3 or more bought at the same time only>
Waiting for your advice. Take care. Kostas
<best regards, Anthony>

Rock, Clams, Anemones & Shrimp
Bob, or whomever might get this :)
<Steven Pro in right now.>
Your site is extremely informative, but tends to generate more questions than it answers. That is definitely meant as a compliment though. I tend to use US measurements of weight and mass and metric for dimensions. I hope you don't mind. So here are the questions and to preface them I will give my tank specifications. I have a smaller tank (I move a lot so don't want a large tank) to enjoy in my office. I just set it up. Most of the rock has already been in a tank before, and all of it is cured. It is a 20 gallon long. Measurements are as follows: 76 cm L x 31 cm H x 32 cm D. I chose the long tank to maximize lighting efficiency in my tank. For lighting I have two 55 watt PC bulbs, both 50/50 (actinic/10k). There is a thin sheet of acrylic separating it from the water (no thicker than 1mm or 2mm). It has approximately 35 lbs of rock, of which approximately 8 lbs of it is base and the rest is live (from Fiji according to my LFS owner). I also have 40 lbs of live aragonite (fine) substrate in the tank. Salinity is at 1.027, ammonia 0, everything else seems to indicate perfect water conditions. For filtration I have a CPR BakPak 2. The bio material has been removed. For circulation, I have two Rio 400's (150 gph each), one in each rear corner blowing the water towards the front center of the tank. It seems to be quite turbulent, as it should be. The skimmer is directing the output towards the left of the tank, right along the back glass. There are no invertebrates in the tank yet, except for some featherdusters that were on the rock when I got it. They immediately opened up after being placed in the tank and are growing. Also there seems to be a pink (the part immediately next to the rock where it is attached is red) coral (possibly a sponge type) growing. It wasn't exposed to much light in the last tank but is three times the size it was when I first noticed it on the rock.
<A good sign>
There are 3 turbo snails in the tank. Also, I have a juvenile Premnas biaculeatus (no more than 4 cm long), spotted mandarin (unsure of Latin taxonomy for this fish)
<Have you read any of our coverage of these fish? Perhaps you should.>
and a fish I am unsure of. It is 7 cm long and maybe .75 cm in diameter. It has a prominent dorsal fin, as well as two symmetrical "sail" fins on the top and bottom of the fish. It is a grayish color fading into a green as it goes toward the tail of the fish. All of my fish seem healthy, especially the clown. The clown had a small tear on his side (possibly from rubbing against rock) but it is healing quickly and quite well. I believe that is all the relevant information. First, what is the unidentified fish?
<I really can not wager a guess without a picture.>
The LFS owner said it was a type of goby, but as he has a thick Chinese accent it is hard to understand. He is very knowledgeable though, and maintains some beautiful display aquariums. Also, what does this fish eat? It hasn't eaten anything proffered to it. Brine, mysis, plankton, Spirulina flake, it just ignores all of it. I've had it for 3 days. Other than that seems very healthy.  
<Do look of www.WetWebMedia.com for anything that looks similar.>
I saw a worm-like creature floating about in my tank, trying to swim as if it were an eel. It was no more than 4 mm long, probably closer to 3 mm or so. It was pure white and seemed to have a lot of little feet, but at that size it is hard to tell. It landed in the substrate and disappeared. What might this be?
<I am not sure about this either.>
I am concerned that it might be a type of polychaete.
<I maybe, but I would not be concerned.>
I've found what I think are polychaetes in my Father's tank.
<Yes, you will find them in most all healthy tanks.>
One measured 40 cm long and this was out of a 34 gallon tank. We just found another one day as he was tearing the tank down and it measured 20 cm. Based on what I plan on keeping in the tank (read on for the rest hehe) what would go well to eliminate any of these creatures before they got too large?
<Not all get that large. Mostly the large ones are the exception.>
I read the FAQ, but still am unsure, as it didn't go into specifics concerning the creatures recommended. I would like to add some shrimp to this tank. Any recommendations?  
<Cleaner shrimp, Lysmata amboinensis, are a favorite of mine.>
Would Tridacnids be feasible in this tank?
<The tank is a bit small for them.>
I was specifically looking for the smaller varieties, such as a maxima or a croceas. If not, how much more lightning would I need?  
<Your lighting would be adequate due to the shallowness of the tank, but clams require much more than just light. Calcium and alkalinity as well as other water quality parameters need to be optimum.>
I am considering purchasing a bubble tip anemone for my clown. Would this survive well in my tank with the current set up and with what I would like to add in the future?
<I would choose the BTA over the clam, but more reading is necessary for either.>
As you see I would like to add other corals to my tank. What should I definitely NOT add if I choose to keep this anemone, and what would go along very well with it?
<I would dedicate the tank to the anemone. It is a rather modest tank and you must consider the growth of your creatures.>
If I purchase an animal I prefer to keep it healthy and quite happy. That is the only humane thing to do.
<Agreed>
Crowding it or forcing it to live with creatures it hates is certainly not something I would not knowingly attempt, so I am asking first. What supplements should I be using for the water?
<You should be monitoring and dosing to maintain appropriate pH, calcium, and alkalinity.>
I use Coralife salt mix.
<I would consider Instant Ocean, Reef Crystals, or Tropic Marin.>
Anything you would recommend to improve the tank in any way?  
<See notes above.>
Thank you so much for your time!
Sincerely and with great appreciation, R. Vincent McCarthy
<Continue with your education in marine husbandry and I am sure you will stay on the right track. -Steven Pro>

Syconoid sponges
I forgot to ask you in my last e-mail if you could tell me what the following described (things) are in my reef tank. When I purchased my last live rock I noticed some small white things on the rock when I put it in my tank. They look almost like small balls of cotton with a small hole at the tip of them. I looked in my coral book and they almost look like Nutting's Sponges. What ever it is they are multiplying quickly and starting to overtake my one large piece of live rock.
<they are syconoid sponges, desirable filter feeders and present no harm or danger. Their proliferation indicates a nutrient export problem in your tank though. Most commonly from a skimmer that doesn't yield dark daily skimmate (every day!) or a simple lack of water changes . Overfeeding too. Likely poor skimming though>
Do you have any idea how I can get rid of them since they are multiplying so quickly.
<simply nutrient control and they will wane/starve>
If I have to take them out by hand it would take me so long that I would be better off destroying the whole rock.
<good heavens no! Do you work for the military? Killing everything in sight as a first response <G>?!?  These are harmless and helpful creatures that are thriving because of a flaw in your maintenance schedule>
Thanks for all your help! Now I am helping others with the expertise you are giving me.  
<very good to hear! Thanks kindly, Anthony>