New Tank, Part II
Thanks so much for your answer. Now I have a few more!
<Glad to be of service to you.>
Today, it seems like a 3" clam "crawled" out of the rock--I didn't know clams could do that, but there's a hole there now, and we saw our clam on the bottom. Unfortunately, it's not one of the beautiful kind--it looks like the kind you eat, but still
it's neat.
<Clam movement is not what you see every day, but they have been known to propel themselves to different areas on rocky surfaces if conditions are not to their liking.  I would not consider this locomotion in the conventional sense, but it is possible for them to have some degree of limited movement.>
We also had something else crawl out. It's about 3" long, red,
and bumpy. Could this be a sea cucumber? It definitely has a mouth. It opens it slowly and closes it and moves slightly. If this is a sea cucumber, do I need to move it to the bottom of the tank? How do I feed the clam and the cucumber?
<Well, without a picture, it would be difficult for me to generalize.  However, if you feel that it looks like a sea cucumber, then it would probably get to the bottom on its own.  Do read up on this site and other Internet sources on dietary needs of sea cucumbers and clams.>
Also, do I need to feed the clown fish? The store told me with so much live rock there is probably a lot of plankton so I should not be feeding them now.
<I beg to differ.  Unless your tank is generating massive amount of plankton and other life for the fish to feed upon, then you will need to feed them yourself with prepared food.>
I saw them nipping at algae and I did put some food in, but the store said the food could be bad with all the rock at this point. What is your opinion?
<Well, you don't want to overfeed, but careful feeding is recommended.>
Another question--I have read your posts about Yellow-tailed Blue Tangs and their susceptibility to ick. Are they ever tank-bred, and if so, does this help the ick problem?
<Some are captive raised, but generally not captive bred, yet.  As far as their being more hardy is concerned, this would be a plus, but resistance to disease, like ich, depends upon many different factors such as environment, stress, tankmates, etc.>
Regarding the fan suggestion--if we leave the lid open and put a fan across it, will anything crawl out (crabs, shrimp, etc)?
<It is possible, and it all depends on what type of life forms that you have in your tank.  Fishes may even jump out if scared.>
Something green that looks like a trumpet with a wide mouth popped out today, too (any ideas what this could be??).
<Gosh, without a picture, I can't make any solid identification.>
I also noticed that there are all sorts of corals sprouting. I can't believe everyone doesn't just buy rock instead of
paying $69 for a little snippet of coral! Besides, I feel like it's a treasure hunt with the live rock. How long can we expect new surprises?
<You could see new life emerging from the rock for some time.  Life forms like sponges, and macroalgae, etc.  That is the fun of having live rock in your tank.>
Anything we should worry about? The guy at the store warned me about mantis shrimp--he said they could crack the tank, but this seemed a bit melodramatic to me. Was he right??
<Yes, he was right.  Undesirable creatures like mantis shrimp can certainly show up in live rock so you do want to observe new additions of rock carefully.  And, yes, they can crack a tank!>
I have to say that this is definitely more interesting than fresh water.
<Well, freshwater also has its own complexity and fascination.  There are many freshwater animals that are just as gorgeous and interesting as marine animals.>
BTW--we do have a test kit. I feel like a chemist...thanks again for the help! I want to make sure I keep everything healthy!
<Test kits are an essential component, and you will get quite good at using them!>
Happy 4th! Janet
<Hope this helps you out with your new tank!  Regards, Scott F.>

DUSTY TANK 30 Jun 2004
hi crew, <Hi Steve>
I have 2 questions for ya folks...
First, I bought a nice, used 70 gal tank + stand and canopy along with tons of live sand. <Wow nice> Fact is that there is too much silt/dust and I'm starting to regret that I did not take care of this problem initially, now that I have my rocks nicely aquascaped and fish in there. Is there anything I can do besides taking all that sand out? <Is the dust problem only from the sand? Or is part of it from the rock as well? Is it the creatures living in it stirring the sand? Is it the tanks current? I do know people who have put in some crushed coral on top of spots where current hit the water directly. Or added a touch of a larger grade of sand to try to "hold it down".>
My LFS recommended fine filter media that is 50 microns or less, which is logical but that didn't do much yet. I have come across a product called "Particle Clear" from a freshwater site, that will clump silt together to be heavy enough to sink. <There are similar salt water products. Please don't ever put one for freshwater in a saltwater tank. Could be big big problems.> Has anyone heard of this and is it safe for saltwater use? <The micron filter is a good idea. Also something like a poly filter might work. I cleared mine out by adding Caulerpa to the tank. All of the sand seemed to be attracted to the Caulerpa. There are also products available called Diatom filters that are very useful for clearing out a tank. I just recently had to use one at a conference to keep a tank clear after using Southdown sand.>
Secondly, in this tank I have a copperband and a flame angel. I'm thinking of tearing down my other smaller coral display tank and move the inhabitants to this 70 gal. I have shrooms, zoos, and other mostly soft corals. Will it be safe to place them with these 2 fishes? I hear that copperband is the most reef safe of all butterflies and yet I think he ate 2 zoo polyps that I planted from the other tank <It is possible that either of them ate it.> (I was hoping they will propagate in the new tank). I assume he ate them since he is most prone to doing that. Besides these fishes I also have 3 clowns and a Mithrax emerald crab. Could they have been the culprit instead? <I think its very possible. Especially the crab who might just have moved or dropped them.>
Your time and response is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.... <Good luck with this, MacL>

Kalk, calcium, magnesium, pH, lighting, biomedia, algae, sandsifters
Hello again and thanks for the quick response <Welcome back Dan> : ), you are a fantastic resource and I greatly appreciate your patience. <Glad to offer some help> I have a few follow up questions: First, concerning the Kalkwasser. Won't the addition of Kalkwasser also buffer up Calcium? It's at 550 now and I'm worried that if I continue increasing Alkalinity the Calcium will precipitate out of solution. <Its a valid point, there is a delicate balance between calcium, alkalinity and even things like magnesium. But you really need to get your ph stabilized. Perhaps some of the different ph stabilizers on the market will do the trick. I've had good luck with HBH's blocks and all of SeaChem's products.> Should I not worry about this? Second, 400 watts of lighting is 7 months old. <Actually not all that old. Most should be okay for up to a year.> I have new bulbs coming in the next day or so. <What's the spectrum of the lights? That can make a difference.> The remainder is less than two month old.  Hopefully, the lighting will reduce the algae problem (fingers crossed). <I think you are going to have to get the ph stabilized and the nitrates gone to do it. There is always the option of adding something to remove the nitrates, perhaps even set up a refugium.> Finally, Do you think removing the Bio media in the second tower will cause a problem with ammonia or nitrite control, or should I wait until I get the algae stabilized? <Lots of people remove part of the biomedia at a time to keep it from being drastic spikes. For instance removing one third at a time.> Well guess I'm off to track down some sand sifting critters! Thanks again, <Good luck Dan, I know you are going to solve this. MacL>
Dan B

Sump, Live Rock and DSB... system melt-down
Hello crew!!!!
<Hi Keith, MikeD here>
It is me again! I had a complete meltdown on my 125 gal tank about a month ago. My ph meter was miscalibrated and I buffered my system to death. My ph was 9.0 before I figured out the problem.
<Ouch...I'm one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it people, for that very reason>
Ok, I am hard headed so here I go again! I have a 125 gal 72" tank. I have 100 lbs of (it used to be live) live rock and a 6" (160lbs) bed of (it used to be live) Aragalive. I have a 40W Lifegard U/V filter, two CPR CS 150 overflows, Ocean Clear model 325 inline canister filter (I have the 325 filter element and the floss type element), Ocean Clear wet/dry filter w/built in skimmer and now I have added a 200 mg ozone unit and just upgraded to a ETSS 750 skimmer being powered by a Mag Drive 1800.<you have more filters on your 125 than I have on a 100, 2/125's and a 300 of my own> I also read on WWM that you recommended the Rubbermaid trash can to premix and age the mixed water so I got one of those and a small pump. I also added (or bought) a 150 gal Rubbermaid water tank. I added a 100 GPD double pass RO/DI filter for source water. Oh yes, I have a quiet one 4400HH and another Mag Drive 1800 that are pumping water from the sump back to the tank. I have a set of 6 54W T-5s. 3 actinic and 3 10K. I also have 2 64W PCs 6500k.<Wow>
I plan on doing a tank with dwarf angels and maybe a Red Sea sailfin?? I am planning on doing a FOWLR.<A haremic colony of one species or mixed?>
Now my question! My ph got all the way up to 9 before and it was there for 3-4 days before I got it back down. I have red coralline algae growing all over but when my ph came down there was something like a grey dust that covered everything in the tank. It looks like everything that was alive is dead except the coralline. Diatoms, hair algae, green algae. I don't see any little critters anymore!! I had planned on adding maybe 125 lbs of live rock in the tank (let’s call it the sump) but can you have too much live rock??<Not in my opinion> I always hear 1-1.25 lbs per gal??<Again, personal choice for FOWLR, more is better> What about another DSB in the sump??<If you wish> Which if any of these filters do I need to use??? In what order??<Both of those are tough questions that basically come down to personal choice after you've passed what's essential> Can I run the ozone and the U/V filters??<Yes> Should I put them on timers and alternate?<Should be OK either way> Bio balls or no??<Again, personal choice, but with a lot of LR I've seen it reported that this creates extra nitrates> I was going to make the shell of my old wet/dry a compartment in the new sump. The skimmer in the wet/dry is a real piece. (Not planning on using that one). Canister?? Which media?? I also have a lot of carbon and Purigen. Do I use
both or just carbon?? How much??<Wow again! Here's just my opinion....you CAN'T over filter a tank, but keep in mind that the more mechanical items you have, the greater the chances for failure of any one of them, likewise, any that need medium cleaning/replacement all add to extra work and if something happens to prevent your doing it, can be sources of potential trouble such as plugged lines, reduced flow and parameter explosions>
Also I know you guys don't like giving a rule of thumb like this but I have read in other places, that you should be able to house 5 inches of fish for every 10 gallons. With angels and a tang can you give me some idea of inches/gallons??? (I don't want to be one of the scorned for overcrowding)<Here's the greatest danger to that...inches as grown adults or inches as juveniles when you're stocking the tank? My preference is for the former, which seems alarmist to many, and yes, it DOES look empty when started, but a Sailfin, for example, is one of the faster growing and larger tangs and should easily grow to 12" minimum with a possible max of 15">
Also are Cubans cleaners or just Spanish hog fish?<As far as I know, ALL of the hogfish are cleaners as juveniles, likewise many of the larger Angelfish, possibly some of the dwarfs as well> I know you don't like for people to get cleaner wrasse, what are the choices in cleaner fish?<Aside from Neon gobies, you've got it pretty well covered, but keep in mind that the Hogfish that's a cleaner juvenile is a predatory adult with a sizeable mouth>
Also I ordered Bob's book -The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Angel's and Butterfly's, Mini Atlas of Aquarium Fish and I am not planning on doing corals right now but Anthony's book on corals. (I would just be happy to have success with the fish). Are there any other members of the crew that have books out??<Check under the books forum, as I'm not really sure> I would love to support in any way I can. You guys and this website are the best!!<Thanks. I'm the newbie on the crew and the attitude here is WHY I'm here> I am sure without finding this website I would be one of those statistics that Bob talks about!! (That got out of saltwater in 3-6 months)<Keep us posted on how the tank turns out?>
Thanks so much for all of the crew’s hard work and good information!!<You're more than welcome, and thank you very much for the support>
Keith Jordan

Re: Hawkfish ID, small stars, no pix
Hi,
     How are you guys? << All is well here. >> Thanks for the earlier help about lighting a magnificent anemone and my clownfish. I have got one 150w MH light but have decided against getting the magnificent for the moment. You probably don't remember but my clownfish have been eating fine, they live mostly off the copepods in my tank but do take bits and pieces of most food. I was just writing to check on the ID of a few things. I was recently looking to get a hawkfish with little success, when I came across a healthy, nicely marked and coloured specimen in a LFS, and it was supposed to only get about 4 inches so I decided to get it. It looks similar to the Paracirrhites forsteri from your website so I thought it may be sensible to double check on its ID and if possible its potential size. I have included a few pics. << Unfortunately no pics acquired. >>
If you don't mind I also have a starfish I can't ID, I was told it was a Fromia and it only ate algae but I can't confirm that from anywhere. I also recently purchased a soft coral garden, could you help me ID the two main corals and if they need any special care.
Also, I have noticed tiny little brittle stars (1cm) on one of those corals (pic DVC 140, although you can't see the brittle stars), are they a pest and if so how would I get rid of them << Brittle stars are not pests.  I wouldn't worry about it, and in fact would be pleased to see it. >>, I know of around seven other more sizeable brittle stars (one has arms of over 4 inches) in the tank if it makes a difference. I was also wondering, I have a Vermiculated Angel, which I mistakenly added early in my stocking order, it has basically claimed the tank and is kind of territorial, in particular to new fish. My two clownfish, hang about in a goniopora and are not bothered by the angel, but my fire goby occasionally gets chased and spends about half his time hiding under a number of different rocks, he still eats ok but I'm not sure he is happy. << Probably not.  You can rearrange rocks in the tank which will disrupt the territory of the angel, but I wouldn't because you can stress your angel. >> A month ago I added a royal Dottyback and my angel bullied it by flaring its fins and chasing it, I'm not sure if it was due to the stress in transit or from the bullying but the Dottyback disappeared after one day and hasn't been seen since. << Unfortunate but not uncommon. >> Now that I have added the Hawkfish, the angel has begun to chase it occasionally. The hawkfish is actually quite active for a hawkfish and I thought it may be to the angels bullying. The hawkfish ate really well in the first few days but is now slacking off a bit, I'm not sure if it is due to the angel and am wondering if I may have to remove the angel. << You can remove it, or look for ways to remove its aggression.  For instance, is it being underfed?  Maybe he is aggressive to fight for food. >> I have been thinking about removing the angel for a while and I was just wondering what your thoughts were? If it is important the angel is about 3 inches, the fire goby around 2 and the hawkfish 2.5. << I was picturing a much larger angel. >> My tank is 60g and there are plenty of caves and overhangs for the angel. I have included pics of everything, sorry about the quality, I was using a video camera. << I would just keep waiting on this one.  I wouldn't want to get rid of a nice angelfish for nothing.  On the other hand I wouldn't want to add more fish knowing they are going to be harassed. >> Thanks heaps for the help and I'm sorry if the pics are a bit big. << Too big to receive.  Please try again later. >>
Bye Chris.
<<  Adam B.  >>

Growing A Healthy System Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. here today> I have a number of questions.  But first let me briefly describe my tank (photos attached). <Thanks for the nice pics> Front Tank ---------------- It is a 50G SeaClear System II  (36x15x20) with wet/dry back compartment - but I have removed the wet dry and mechanical filter (back compartment is empty).  I have replaced the pump with a 400GPH Aquaclear 802. <A nice application for this tank> A RedSea Prizm deluxe skimmer is attached I also have a Powersweep 214 125 GPH wavemaker/powerhead.   I have 30 lbs of Fiji live rock (from Aquarium Concepts in Hayward - LFS) I have 35 lbs of live sand with some crushed coral mixed in. Sand bed is between 1.5 to 3" deep depending on location (mostly because the water return is at the back bottom of the tank and blows the sand forward) <A common problem in high-flow systems> It has 1 regular 24" florescent fish bulb Right now I have only 4 fish (1 panther grouper, 1 yellow tail damsel, 1 percula clown and 1 flame angel) and 1 snail in the front tank - planning to get rid of the grouper Tank has been operational for almost 1 year Refugium This is intended to greatly increase my biological filtering: I built a 5G refugium in back - faces out window 10 lbs of live sand forming a 2" bed 1 Maxijet 400 125GPH pumping water in/out of refugium 1 Maxijet 400 creating pure circulation 1 yellow-tail damsel, 1 snail and a couple crabs Caulerpa algae (not sure what type - not grape - looks/feels like a bristle sponge - wire/stringy) <Sounds/looks a lot like Chaetomorpha to me...My favorite macroalgae for use in a refugium> Questions: 1.My nitrate levels are continually around 40ppm.  What can I do to reduce them? I would like to keep some invertebrates (anemones etc) but I know they are sensitive to nitrates. <Well, a lot of things...Here are a few thoughts: Increase sand bed depth to 4 inches or more, make frequent small water changes using quality source water (RO/DI), use chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon/Poly Filter. Clean and/or replace any mechanical filtration media on a very frequent basis. Work that skimmer so that you get at least a couple of cups of yucky dark skimmate a week. Be consistent and relentless in husbandry. Small changes done over time will get you where you want to be. Be patient> 2.My live rock looks very barren.  Other than some brown algae it has no color.  It is not very attractive and I keep the tank in my living room. Is it supposed to be growing something?  If so, what am I doing wrong? <Well, an established aquarium with good calcium and alkalinity levels will eventually grow coralline algae over the live rock. Give it time, and monitor and supplement calcium levels with kalkwasser if you are interested in growing this stuff> 3.What steps should I take so that I can add anemones, etc. to make my tank more than just a fish-only tank? I have been reluctant to do anything while my nitrates are high. <Continue to foster growth in the refugium, and enhance lighting and other environmental parameters as needed in order to create conditions appropriate for the animals that you intend to keep> 4.Are there any plants I can put in the front tank that will look attractive? <All sorts of possibilities. If you are a fan of Caulerpa, and understand its requirements, be sure to consider this family. There are many others, too. Seagrasses would be an awesome addition to a tank that is designed for their specific needs. Very deep sand beds and intense lighting are among their requirements> What can I do to get a colorful tank? <Wow! That's the million dollar question! So many ways to go. You can choose very colorful fishes, corals, or other invertebrates, like Gorgonians. Do some scanning over the WWM site, find animals that appeal to you, and create conditions appropriate for their successful husbandry. Have fun with this learning process. Do concentrate on providing optimum conditions for your animals, and the rest is easy!> Thanks in advance, -Stephen <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F>

System Critique
Hey-I've never written to you before but have done plenty of reading.
<Well we're here to help! Scott F. here today!>
I would like to describe my set-up and get your opinion. 125 long (72x18x22) 400w compact fl. split with 10k & actinic all on timers with the actinic coming on/off 1-1/2 hours before/after 10k.10k is on 12 hours. Also, have a standard 20w fl. actinic on 24/7 centered. Open hood canopy. Aqua Clear Pro series 200 wet/dry w/9 gal. of bio balls with a CPR CS90 overflow box (2-1" drops) with a mag12 return pump. My return lines (2-3/4") split to each end of tank. Also have 1 Rio1100 in sump with seperate hose return for extra flow. Have sponge pre-filters in overflow which I clean weekly.
<I'd clean 'em more often, myself.>
If you are not familiar with this brand wet/dry, it has a built in venturi protein skimmer prior to bio-balls powered by an 800gph pump. In addition to the typical blue bonded filter pad, I use and change daily a 50-100 micron pad on top of that.
<Great to hear...These pads are terrific, but they need to be cleaned and/or replaced often, as you are doing, or they'll become the dreaded "nutrient trap" that we all think about.>
(2) Aqua Clear 500 power filters,1 used for phosphate remover and KM Nitrate sponge media, other has foam filter and Black Diamond carbon. Also have Prizm Deluxe skimmer on back. not great for skimming/really added for extra oxygenation.
<Well, if it gives you a couple of cups of dark, yucky skimmate per week, it's doing more than just aerating...Try to adjust it to yield more. Two skimmers would be cool!>
Hope I'm not boring you and sorry for dragging on.
<No problem...At 12:44AM, you have my undivided attention!>
Also have 2 internal AC301 power heads.1 Double Helix 9 watt uv powered by AQ402 place at end of bio-balls just at return to tank. I have approx. 75 Lbs. of LR (need more, I know) about 25 Lbs of lace rock and about 10 lbs. of lava rock.
<I'm not a big fan of lava rock in marine systems. Although it can be used, I'm concerned about it being a source of impurities which can foster nuisance algae blooms>
I do a 10% weekly water change at which time I add my trace elements, iodine and vita-chem. I dose kalkwasser daily for evaporation (at night). Use C-balance as well.PH-8.1-8.3,salinity-1.023/4,calcium 300-320ppm,0 amonia,0 nitrites, and 40ppm nitrates ( I know, try to control yourself).
<Well, I wonder if the source water, and possibly your lava rock, are partial contributors to the nitrates in your system?>
My substrate is 135 lbs. of Florida crushed coral. With my weekly water changes I vacuum the substrate. All media is replaced as recommended. My tank consists of the following,(1)6" Hippo Tang,(1) 4" Yellow Tang,(1) Flame hawkfish,(2) Clarki Clowns,(2) False Percula,(1) Cleaner Wrasse,(3) 3 Stripe Damsels,(2) Yellow Tail Damsels,(1) Coral Beauty.(1) tennis ball size colony of Starburst polyp coral, pumping Xenia,(1) 2-3" Tree Coral, and some Striped Mushrooms.(4) anemones-1 Atlantic Condy..,1 Bubble Tip,1 Sebae, and 1 LT (none are shrinking and all are brown)
<Gosh- I have to offer constructive criticism here. Despite your short-term success, mixing several species of stinging cnidarians, particularly those from different oceans, is a sure recipe for long term problems. I'd keep the one that you like best and find homes for the others. Trust me on this, it's the responsible thing to do>
1 Flame Scallop, 1 Cleaner Shrimp,1 Peppermint Shrimp,30 or so misc. cleaner crabs (red and blue legged) and 20 or so Turbo and Margarita Snails.) I have never lost any fish, my anemones have doubled their size
<Again, not to be negative about the anemones, but do consider my comments above>
,Xenia is spreading and growing along with my Mushrooms. I have never had an algae problem from day 1. I don't know all the correct names of the different types of algae, but I have great growth of pink/purple coralline algae on ALL of my rockwork, no brown algae, but do get green algae on my rocks and growth on the glass (not excessive). I leave enough growth on the back only for snail food. I am so sorry for the 30 minute e-mail but just had to get this off my chest for as I am starting my own maintenance business and love constructive criticism. Thanks for your time and cannot wait to hear your reply.-Chris
<Well, Chris, my biggest to criticisms of your system are that the anemone mix is ill-advised, and you may want to consider relying more on live rock and sand to do your "filtering", with less emphasis on mechanical filtration, bioballs, pads, etc. This will keep the system more "natural", and long-term maintenance easier. Also, I would not add any additional fishes into this tank at this point. Other than the suggestions here and outlined above, I'd keep doing what you're doing. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New Aquarist Learning the Ropes... in the Outback 6/11/04
Hi just want to clarify, test for everything I can afford to buy test kits for
<hmmm... well, just the fundamentals: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate... ph, Alkalinity and Calcium... Iodine if you'll go reef. Magnesium would be nice. Strontium out of curiousity (again if reef)>
and add supplements if necessary,
<without very large and frequent water changes, some supplements will be necessary like SeaBuffer, calcium hydroxide and iodine. Perhaps some vitamins for your fishes/corals if the diet is limited>
get rid of nudibranchs and starfish in my three month old tank,
<correct>
don't keep anemones and corals together choose one or the other to keep with fish. Does this all sound right?
<exactly, mate>
FYI  I have been collecting own specimens locally have had no advice, collect natural sea water from same area figure whatever is in the water is what my specimens deal with naturally anyway,
<I can understand the logic, but it is flawed. Live plankton, parasites and bacteria in the open ocean pose little threat to the fishes because fo the biiiig dilution factor. In the confines of a home aquarium though... things can get ugly fast. You have my sad and solemn guarantee that you will likely have some serious problem in time if you continue to use unsterilized seawater. You do not need to buy/use synthetic salts. Instead, read in our archives at wetwebmedia.com (use the google search tool o the home page) to learn how to properly treat natural seawater>
also when I say WA I mean Western Australia not somewhere in America,
<I do understand... I recognized your server in your e-mail address: bigpond.com
we get many hundreds of queries per month from all over the world. A couple thousand perhaps>
where are you guys at?
<based in the United States - working online from coast to coast>
What is buffer? Is this related to pH?
<yikes... these are questions that should have been asked/answered before you took live animals into your care. Buffer is a means of boosting alkalinity which supports pH. Since you have made it this far online to find our site and e-mail us questions, please do take the time to read more from our extensive and free archives about keeping aquariums.>
My (suspected) brain coral has tentacles out all night to feed and closes up and hardens soon after lights are on,
<correct... a zooplankton feeders. It wants very tiny shrimps>
what does this mean for feeding it? Have been trying to feed mushed brine shrimp before I put lights on in the morning.
<brine shrimp is a very weak and low grade food... do seek another my friend. Even shredded food grade shrimp or crab>
How long should I leave lights and pumps off for it to eat?
<no need to turn the pumps off... just use a feeding tube or baster to get close>
Have read brine shrimp aren't so good,
<it is dreadful if used as a staple>
that is all I have been feeding fish and coral alike so far
<they will starve to death on it slowly in time... read the package, mate - high moisture content and not much else to it. Very low grade food. Its like eating air <G>>
don't know if LFS has anything else they are pretty daft don't seem to know much more than I do at this point and they are the only one for 500km so don't have many options. Really like my anemones and coral is there any way to keep both?  
<not really, I'm sorry to say. Do set up a seperate aquarium for your anemones. Have you looked at the books available in Australia from ReefOnline? A very nice online merchant for Aussie aquarists. Best of luck, Anthony>

Polyps 'n' Pods (6/9/04)
Steve, <evenin'>
Thanks for the nice reply. <no problem> We can agree to disagree,
but you are right about calling your advice stupid. <As in medicine, there isn't always a single best practice for every aspect of aquarium husbandry.> You have a great site <It is my honor to play a small part.> and if you err you error on the side of the fish which is what we both can agree
on. <Yes, this needs to be the priority.> I love the hobby, but will only keep fish and inverts successfully and want to be reef conscience at all times. <Glad to hear. I wish more folks felt this way.>
I have a couple simple questions this time.  My 40 gallon reef tank is going very well. <great!> Mushrooms, Button and Yellow Polyps all doing well.  I had a nuisance algae problem (hair on the rocks and
red slime on the gravel), but added a powerhead and canister filter and the extra water movement has done the trick. <Good. Clean the canister often to prevent nitrate build-up.>
1.  How often do I feed the polyps (can I overfeed them)? <The best feeding of these has not been determined. Many folks have thriving colonies that they never directly feed. Others target feed with such things as Cyclop-eeze.>
2.  Are my abundant Copepods and Amphipods helping to keep the nuisance algae under control and if so a good bit or just a little (I have a lot of big amphipods)? <IME, no. They may eat some of it, but the eat a lot of other microscopic plankton as well. I have not noticed any diminishment of the cyano or hair algae in my refugium despite many hundreds of 'pods.>
3.  As to number 2, if they are eating a lot of the nuisance algae, if I add a Candy Hogfish to the tank and he eats them all (he ate a lot of them last time he was in there) will that cause my nuisance algae to come back or did I solve the problem by increasing my
water flow. <The Hogfish will reduce the 'pod population, but I doubt this will influence the algae. Keeping nitrate low and phosphate virtually zero will be of far more benefit.>
Thanks, Nathan <Hope this helps. Your philosophy of care will go a long way toward success. Steve Allen.>

REEF AQUARIUM SET-UPS
I have been a reefer only a short time, and have tried to read most of
the published books and articles on the market. Recently I purchased a
copy of Michael Paletta's ''ULTIMATE MARINE AQUARIUMS" and found that
there are many ways to be successful with a reef aquarium,
During a recent visit to a local aquarium shop I joined a conversation
about a "bag of bugs". It seems that a company in Terra Haute, Indiana
sells fauna kits. << That is a great place, with a great wonder.  >> Anyway I drove the +600 miles to visit their
facilities. Inland Aquatics has 13,000 square foot facility with 35,000
gallons of salt water. I learned there is still another way to keep a
reef aquarium and since I have not read about their systems i thought i
would get your input.  << I'm happy to share my thoughts. >>
They never make water changes and they do not use protein skimming.
they use the algal turf scrubber developed by Dr. Walter Adey. wow, I
cannot believe it is that simple. your comments would be appreciated.  << Here is my comparison.  Remember when you first learned to drive?  Remember how careful you were when you just got your license, and you never went over the speed limit, and you didn't drive at night?  Now think of how easy driving is, and it just comes to you.  You don't think about turn signals and checking blind spots; you just do it out of habit.  Well that is very much how I see aquariums.  You don't need to do a lot of things, but when starting out, it is a good idea to do them.  I don't use a skimmer on any of my tanks, I don't do any water changes, and I top off with tap water.  But don't do that!  
It is much better to be safe and use RO water, and a skimmer is a great device to help protect against a disaster.  Also, my tank has lots of corals and filter feeders pulling things out of the water.  So my final answer is "yes it is that simple" but be careful.  It is better to have a simple system, but those items allow for a lot of room for error. You don't have to wear a seatbelt as you drive down the freeway, but I do. >>
Bill
<< Adam Blundell  >>

Re: Cloudy Water
Hi guys, I have a quick question. I currently have a 75 gallon reef tank that's been running for about 3 years now. The tank is set up with live rock, sand, macro algae, corals, no fish. I test regularly and everything is fine (nitrate=0, phosphate=0, etc...) I've notices recently that early in the morning, right when the lights go on, the water is cloudy. About an hour later it clears up. This has been happening almost every morning, at least on the weekends when I'm home to see the tank when the lights just come on. I'm trying to find out what's causing the water to get cloudy only in the morning. All of my corals are doing fine. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
<It could be the corals feeding or breeding...those are the only possibilities that I can think of. I would talk with other people on say a chat forum such as reefs.org and see what advice they have. good luck, IanB> 

White spots that come and go 6/2/04
Hey all,  First, I'd like to say thanks for the great website. Very informative and a necessary tool to me.
<Glad you have benefited!>
I have a 20gal tank that is 2 months old now. I have 15# of live rock, 30# Aragamax substrate, Red Sea Prizm skimmer, Penguin Bio-wheel 170 power filter, 2 turbo snails and 2 saddleback clowns.  Up until three days ago I also had a Yellow-tail Blue Damsel that I gave away to a friend two days ago as he was a nuisance to the clowns.
<All sounds fine. Do be aware that bio-wheel type filters tend to lead to nitrate accumulation.>
Have been doing 20% water changes every two weeks (religiously), the most recent change was 5 days ago. Current water levels are PH 8.4, gravity 1.022, temp 78F, Ammonia 0.25, Nitrate 2.5, Nitrite 0.1. I certainly noticed this increase in the nitrate level occur over the last 2 day period as it was at 0 for nitrate and .05 for nitrite for the last 2-3 weeks. Am going to do another water change tomorrow (just need to get salt mix from the store) to lower those nitrates.
<Nitrate is nothing to worry about, but ammonia and nitrite certainly are!  Do check your test kits against others.>    
Last night I noticed white spots on both clowns that I have had for
almost 6 weeks now. This morning I couldn't see the spots at all but did a freshwater dip on them anyways. Everything seemed clear but tonite I notice the spots are back. After doing the dip this morning I noticed that one of the clowns eye became hazy. I first thought this was Ick hence why I did the dip. Their behavior seems fine right now. They have been eating, swimming around, but they do seem to breath at a quick pace. Not sure if this is normal or not as they have been doing it since I bought them. They sure seem
to be happier without the damsel chasing them around.
<Could be Ich, could be velvet.  The fast breathing is more consistent with velvet, but also comes with very advanced Ich.>
Any idea what the spots could be if not Ick? After reading the FAQ's I thought about the possibility of low oxygen in the water. However, I would imagine that the skimmer does a pretty good job of oxygenating the water while scrubbing.
<I agree that low O2 is probably not the problem.>
If this is a lymph... would two weeks harm them as I don't have the money at this time to buy a cleaner shrimp? Am thinking that this is due to environmental factors but cannot explain the spike in the nitrates as they had previously done that and had been down for the last 2 1/2 weeks.
<I am not sure why your ammonia and nitrite went up.  I don't know what you mean by lymph.  If it is ich or velvet, they need to be treated immediately.>
Anything that I am missing? I don't have a QT so am hampered to do
everything within this tank. Am still learning the salt water fish so started off with a small tank till I have the experience (and the space) for a larger system.  Thanks much, Leonard
<My advice is to pick up a 10 gallon tank to use as a hospital tank.  Set the tank up by filling it with equal parts of water from your tank and newly mixed salt water.  You can use a couple of flower pots or pieces of PVC pipe to provide the fish cover.  Move the BioWheel to the new tank and let it run for a day.  Move the fish to the hospital tank.  Over a couple of days, lower the salinity in the hospital tank to 1.014.  If you can find Aquatronics brand "Marex" or "Quinsulfex", these can be added as a one time dose at 35mg/gallon.  Hold the fish at the lower salinity for two weeks.  Raise the salinity back to normal over another two weeks.  Hold the fish for two more weeks at normal salinity (total of six weeks).  At this time, they can be returned to the display.  In the mean time, do not add any other fish to the display since parasites may still be present.  Best Regards.  Adam>

High Nitrates in a Mixed Reef
Greetings, <Hello, Ryan with you>
    I've been visiting your site for over a year now (since I first put water in my tank), but this is the first time I've written in as I'm really needing your advice.  My LFS are good people, but always seem too busy to really listen to my problems and help my find viable solutions. <Glad you're here>
    I've got a 110-gal saltwater tank with two blue actinic, two white 48" VHO lights.  The blue's run from noon to 10, and the whites start an hour after and stop an hour before the blues (1pm - 9pm).  My neighbor gave me a bunch of his live rock and coral (star polyps, mushroom anenomes, and some others I can't name but are very soft and delicate) about 4 months ago as well as his food and advice on feeding (couple scoops of powder in a cup, dump into the sump). <Ack! I can see where this is going> For the first month or two, they did great, then my nitrates started getting higher and higher. <I can't wait for chapter 2 ;)  > I figure this is because of all the coral food being dumped into the system. <Yep> I started doing more regular water changes (25% every two weeks) and it still didn't help much.  We got a Condylactis anemone as a gift and that guy moved around for about a day, didn't eat the krill I stuck on it, and melted after three days.  I figure that my nitrates were too high for it (20-30 ppm), but I can't find hardly any documentation on this, and from what I can find, high nitrates won't kill a condy after only a day or two.  This is probably wrong though.  My nitrites are zero and my ammonia tests at a low level, but I'm told since I use "Prime" water treatment chemicals with my water changes, my ammonia readings will stay above 0 even if there isn't any present.
    Then, green algae started growing all over the place (with the little green bubbles and "hair" in some spots).  I thought this was natural until I started checking around and found out that green algae can choke off the life of your coral, which has been slowly dying off over the last two months.  I bought a Yellow Tang and about 8 turbo snails over the next two weeks, and started doing weekly water changes (25%), but my nitrates are still high and now some of my snails are not looking good, and almost all of my corals are still suffering.  The Tang is happy and grazing on the algae, and my 3 Sebaes, green Chromis, and coral-banded shrimp are all doing great, eating happily and moving normally around in the tank.
    Can you please advise me on what I can do to revive my corals/lower my nitrates?  I very much appreciate whatever advice you can offer. <OK- Lots to go through.  First of all, you haven't mentioned a skimmer.  Are you using one?  This will greatly help remove dissolved organics from your system before they have the opportunity to break down, and affect water quality.  Secondly, the sump feeding isn't really helping anyone.  It's fueling the algae problem, and the corals will be fine if you limit this behavior to less than once per month.  What you really need to do is increase the light in your aquarium- 2 48" VHO bulbs are a good start, but you're not off the hook yet.  I would double this, at least.  Check out ahlights.com for an easy retrofit kit.  These animals need 3+ watts per gallon to thrive.  I'm quite sure that the change in lighting, along with the stress of transport killed your anemone- Although water with nitrates is not suitable for these animals.  Good luck! Ryan>
Thanks a lot and keep up the great site.
Judd Exley

What else can I add?
Greetings to the Wetwebmedia Crew,
<Thanks! Welcome>
I am questioning my filtration.  I have two bow front 46 gallon tanks.
<Great> One was a changeover from a 29 established thank that was 5 years
old.  Well, then, you are looking at an off balance of the entertainment
center in the den and I had to have another one.  This is a living piece of
furniture. <Very cool> A friend was dismantling a 120 gallon tank and I got
free live rock, coral.  How could I not do this?  <Yeah!> I have about 65lbs
of live rock in one and 50lbs in the other.  I have an AquaVia multi skimmer
(protein skimmer, uv light, etc.) and a 301 aquaclear, along with 3 power
heads, staggered in position on each tank.  I have good water movement on the
top of the tank.  It appears that the current overall in the tank if good.
My test results are:  Salinity= 1.023, PH - 8.3-4 whenever I test,
ammonia -=0, nitrates - 5-10 and nitrites=0, calcium=450-460, phosphates=0.
Caulerpa is waving (planted in the sand and in small stands). <You may want
to keep a close eye- This macro-algae has a tendency to suffocate corals.>
I have not lost any fish or coral, however, from all I read, I may not have
enough filtration. <I would increase circulation, that's it> I read this
site every day!.  Do I absolutely have to have a wet/dry filter and a sump
and a refugium? <Not at all> I have a LOT of copepods and 96 watt (double)
Aqualights w/moonlight on each tank. <Killer!> My corals are low to medium
light softies. <Best place to start> To me, and everyone who has seen them
they are gorgeous.  I want to keep them that way and now I am becoming
paranoid.  I change water, if not 5-10% twice a week, 15-25% once a week.
But looking at all the filtration that is recommended, I hope I am not
looking at disaster. <Nope- You have the routine down> I guess I just want
some reassurance from the experts!  The newest tank was set up in January.
I never had an ammonia spike or nitrite/nitrate spike because the rock was
from an established tank and move in warp speed to the new tank which was
already set up and running with just sand.  I seeded the water from the
established tank to the new tank and can't believe how well it worked.  I
guess I just want assurance that I did everything right?  With the utmost
admiration for all of the WetWeb crew!  Your unselfish dedication to this
hobby is astounding and it is an honor to have access to your collective
knowledge! <We love to hear success stories- Sounds like you're doing a
bang-up job.  Cheers, Ryan>
 Sue

RE: furry crab, white eyes
Thanks, it is a new tank with live rock I don't have anything in it yet except some snails and hermit crabs.  
<do resist the temptation to put many/any hermits in if this will be a reef. They are opportunistic predators in time and not really a long-term reef-safe choice>
The guy at the store were I bought the live rock said the coral would be ok, I know its dead, but is it ok?
<I see/saw some tissue which will degrade if so>
I liked the looks. This is my first tank and I'm trying to set it up correctly.  
<dead rocks and coral invite nuisance algae... do seek live rock only if you can>
I have 15 gallon quarantine tank, but since I was starting from scratch I didn't think of doing any quarantine yet.
<no my friend... we even QT in the beginning to prevent parasites from entering the display and polluting the sand. Live rock in a bare-bottomed QT is very important. And the coral with he crab too (could be harboring predatory flatworms, bits of a plague/nuisance algae species,etc. It is critical to learn that everything gets QT for 4 weeks without exception for peace of mind and best success with aquarium husbandry>
Again, thanks for the help.  
<best of luck, Anthony>

Marine nitrates - and we don't mean the Sailor kind!
My 15 y/o has a 6 month old reef tank, I get involved to help problem solve and properly care for the tank. When he purchased the tank he set it up as follows: 
a 75 gallon tank with cpr BakPak skimmer, U.V sterilizer hooked to the Eheim canister and the tank, he has a Eheim canister 2026, a Rio 1100 pump, he has a actinic light with 2 10,000K bulbs I think it is a Power Compact lighting 
I have read and helped him get about 125 pounds of Fiji live rock and aragonite sand. The sand he had initially down was about 1.5 inches. I am trying to increase that to at least 3 inches all over. <sounds good> 
He has a mandarin ( I also have 2 growing copepod tanks for him), a damsel with a yellow tail and just received a Hawaiian bi color Anthias for fish. All were given free to him when they were no longer wanted or eating. All these fish eat great at our home. We have 2 variety's of Caulerpa growing well in the tank with rubble rock. He has a fire shrimp, several peppermint shrimp, a short spine sea urchin, a star fish that is green( supposed to have been blue Linckia but is green linka-free no one liked the color) blue footed and red footed hermits, several emerald crabs, a moon snail, a couple honey bee snails. He has just got a pink green sea cucumber with a head that has the extensions out. We are both nervous about this creature as have read it can kill all in the tank--think we should get rid of it, give it away or sell it or whatever.<personally if the aquarium is healthy and the cucumber is healthy I would just allow it to remain in the aquarium> He has just started adding coral and we have 2 different mushrooms, a fluorescent pink/green hairy type and a green stripped type- the mushrooms are doing well, a frogspawn which is doing great, a finger leather, open brain, slipper, green polyps and a xenia which is doing great. The slipper and open coral were not quite as full as at the store when purchased last Friday. So we did a test and such on the water, the nitrates are at about 20, and have been doing 20 gallon water change, then waited and recheck in a day or 2 nitrates remain about 20 so did 10 gallon water change yesterday and again today. Nitrites, ammonia, calcium alkalinity pH are were are supposed to be and stable. Iodine is 0.03ppm, haven't recently added any strontium or molybdenum as are not sure we need to. I was under the impression with the aragonite we do not need to add as this is always dissolving into the water.<to some degree you are correct> 
1. We have a always hungry Anthias and are feeding more often and more food-formula 1,2,flake food, mysis shrimp, plankton zooplankton and copepods (live are added to rubble rock areas) alternating foods and feeding 2-3 times a day. could the elevated nitrates be from this new always hungry always needing to be fed fish and what to do so the nitrates go down. Do we get rid of the Anthias- we can give him back or find a new home for him. All the fish get along.<good to hear> 
2. I added about 1/3 area of tank with more aragonite which covered the older aragonite and things living in that older aragonite. Could the increased nitrates be from this, and how to correct this<yes...it could. just perform more water changes.. dilution is always the solution> 
3. We have the Eheim 2026 canister filter which can increase nitrates-I think. Could this be the cause of the increased nitrates? The tank is been running for 5 months, no change material or cleaning of the canister filter has yet been done. Could this be the cause of the nitrate elevation and if it is:<this could be the problem as well> 
We were wondering if we can remove the media in the canister and just run the water continuously through the canister into the UV and back into the tank?<you could...but honestly 20ppm of nitrates is not going to harm anything> 
4. The slipper and the open brain are on the sand floor of a standard depth 75 gallon tank with the light as described above on. Is that enough lighting? 
<yea...it should be getting enough lighting. if not you will be able to tell and then you can move it> 
You have always been helpful especially with our mandarin for whom we wanted the tank to be geared for. He looks great, eats all the time and I grow copepods for him in 2 tanks. At night our 75 tank is crawling with these and amphipods. We love the mandarin and have convinced our local LFS to start to culture grow and sell copepods with instructions how to keep growing them for the mandarin. Hopefully this will help other people who have purchased this fish. Our LFS is locally run and does not purchase the mandarin to sell. However another ;pet chain store gets 5 or 6 at a time. Totally and inadequately coldly caring for them. But, what can you do. I have told them until I was blue that the fish will die kept like that--they do not seem to care.<most stores do not care about the welfare of the fish that they purchase/sell and kill> 
I was trying to keep a self sufficient reef tank however the Anthias needs such frequent feeding. While there not be food that fish could find? or I could grow for him?<it would be a bit difficult with the Anthias. reef aquariums most always require human intervention> 
Thanks before I find more questions to ask.  Thanks for all your guidance and help. Do you promote any organizations to help save the reefs? It would be great to encourage my son to take his hobby, his knowledge and help promote the natural reef and reef studies so we do not lose this area of life's creations.  Sue
<Everything sounds good. Good luck to both you and your son. IanB> 

Lots of questions 4/14/04
Okay, Guys, I will apologize up front, because I have been saving up some questions for awhile now, and I am going to put them all in one email.
<No worries.  Let's get to it!....>
First, the most pressing question: my reef tank has recently become overgrown with hair algae (I waited too long to change out my VHO bulbs.  I hate paying the high shipping, and my LFS has been promising for over two months to get me some, but hasn't come through.  I will get new ones Thursday.)
<Hair algae growth (or any other algae growth for that matter) has nothing to do with lamp age.  This is old reef-keeping mythology.>
I mail ordered additional snails and hermits to help, as well as a rainfordi goby, from Jeff's Exotic Fish (great seller, btw).  The goby is a great fish, but came in only 1.25" long, so there isn't too much he can do to help.
<Added snails will help a lot, but do consider removing a few as the algae supply goes down, else they may begin to starve.  Hermits aren't very good algae grazers.  Most prefer other foods, especially meat, and can be a bid destructive (especially as they will kill snails for their shells).  Rainfordi gobies are beautiful fish, but will eat little or no algae regardless of size.  Despite assertions to the contrary, these fish are primarily 'pod predators.  I suspect that Rainford's and Mandarins are mistakenly touted as algae eaters because of their habit of picking at rocks (actually hunting, not grazing!).>
I finally decided to add a tang to do the cleanup.  I checked out my LFS, and they only had two: a very sickly Scopas, and a very healthy, recently arrived powder blue.  Now, in 16 years I've never purchased a powder blue because I know how fragile they are and how hard to keep.  But this one was calm but alert, breathing well, eating well, with no signs of wounds or damage whatsoever.  So I bought it.
<Hmmm... I think I know what is coming next.  If nothing else, this active swimming fish will outgrow a 72 gal tank very quickly.>
That was three weeks ago.  I took your advice and didn't quarantine this guy so as not to submit him to additional stress.
<I don't agree with this advice.  A proper quarantine should not be stressful.  Even if it is mildly so, any fish that doesn't survive the process was likely doomed.  If quarantine is properly carried out, any death should be considered proof that the quarantine was warranted.>
After he killed the only blue and yellow damsel in the tank (didn't see that coming), he's done just fine, except for one thing.  He won't eat the hair algae, and he is getting thin.  He eats coralline algae and slime algae (what little there is), but he won't touch the hair algae.  He won't eat mysis or plankton or bloodworms, though he will happily devour brine (I know, no nutritional value, but it is all he eats).  And he won't touch romaine or nori.  Why on earth would a fish known for eating hair algae not eat it?  I mean, your website says a well algaed tank is the essential ingredient to keeping these guys happy!  What can I do?
<Wow!  PBT's are quite aggressive, but killing a damsel is a surprise.  Most tangs in this group prefer turf algaes over filamentous varieties, so it isn't a huge surprise.  Healthy PBT's are generally pigs that will greedily accept just about any prepared foods.  Do try some high quality flake (OSI, Ocean Nutrition, Omega One).  A lawnmower blenny should make quick work of any hair algae.>
Second, two of the corals I got from Jeff's were a green Trach and a fungia plate.  Neither one was doing well at first.  In fact, I thought the fungia was dead.  I moved them both several times, trying to find the optimal light/current location.  The only place I have found where that are happy (i.e. inflate at all, or extend feeding tentacles) is on the substrate, half under the overhanging rocks where they get virtually no direct light at all.  Now, this is a 72G bowfront with 4 VHO, 3 actinic white and one super actinic.  I didn't think that was all that much light.
<Your lighting should be fine, but the corals may have been held in very low light for quite a while.  I would try moving them out into the light after a few days, then move the torch up a few days later.  The fungia should remain on the sand.>
Parameters:
Salinity 1.024
Ph 8.3
alk 5.6
calcium 390-400 (working on raising that a little)
nitrate <20 ppm
temp 77 F
<All looks fine.  If your alk is mEq/l, it is a bit high, but OK.  If it is dKH, it is very low and should be treated.  Alkalinity is very important!>
Third, I need a new skimmer for my 150 FO tank.  I've been trying to read up (it's been 7 years since I bought a new skimmer), and there just seems to be no agreement.  Many forum posts I have seen say that the old Red Sea Berlin isn't good for anything but a paperweight, but mine has worked well for seven years, with an occasional cleaning and clearing of the venturi.
<I am sure that your Berlin has worked well...  by 7 year old standards.  Newer models are vastly more efficient and powerful.  I would not recommend a Berlin for any tank bigger than about 50 gallons.  If it is producing a lot of skimmate, it is because it is constantly overwhelmed.>
There seems to be consensus that the Euroreef and ETS skimmers are great, but I can't afford one.  There seems to be consensus that the SeaClones are junk.  But what about all the other models I see all over the place?  I've looked through many of your FAQs, but there doesn't seem to be a clear answer on how to tell if a skimmer is a good one.  I keep seeing low cost skimmers on eBay and various websites (like the TS-2000 Turbo Skimmer), and I sort of assume that they probably aren't very good, but I don't really know.  I know you advocate some of the more reasonable practices I prefer (VHO or even standard fluorescent lighting, minimal additives, reasonably priced equipment)  Can you give me any guidance?  Is physical size a good indicator?
<Unfortunately, there is no good skimmer out there at a bargain price.  The four dominant modern skimmers types are: aspirating venturi/needle wheel (EuroReef, Deltec), Beckett (myreef, etc.., Precision Marine), Downdraft (ETS), and Induction (AquaC).  All of these work very well.  Aspirating Venturi and Induction are the most efficient, using relatively small, low wattage pumps to produce a lot of air.  Downdraft and Beckett injector skimmers require quite large pumps and employ quite a bit of "brute force".  When shopping skimmers, do choose a model that is designed for a tank at least 25% bigger than yours as most manufacturers inflate their specs a bit.  Also, remember that Euroreef and Deltec (Deltec is hard to find) skimmers include a pump and almost all others require an additional one.  This makes EuroReef a bit more price competitive than they initially seem.  Do look out for "Conscientious Aquarist" online magazine here at WWM starting May 1.  The first issue will have an article on skimmers.>
Lastly, I recently saw a med-large elephant skin coral upside down on the bottom of the LFS coral display tank.  I pointed it out to the store manager, and he said he thought it was just a piece of rock and offered to sell it to me for 5.99 a pound.  Both for my sake and the coral's I bought it (less that $5), and brought it home.  After reading up on your website, I placed it as high on my rock formation as possible, less than six inches below the surface.  Will it get enough light there, or shall I try to find someone with MH lights and give it to them?
<I have a lovely green specimen of this coral under VHO's.  It grows slowly, but is perfectly healthy.  Your lighting should be likewise just fine.>
Thanks again for the great website and all the help. Jim Jensen
<Glad to!  Best Regards.  Adam.>

Lots of questions 4/14/04 - Follow up Questions
Hi Adam, A few follow up questions:
<Hello again.  My original text is <between carrots>, and my new text is <<between double carrots>>.
<Hair algae growth (or any other algae growth for that matter) has nothing to do with lamp age.  This is old reef-keeping mythology.>
Really?!?  I've had this in the past, and simply changing bulbs always helped.  What would cause it, then?  Increased Nitrate/ Phosphate?  It kinda hit outta the blue.  Things were fine, then I lost one ridge hammer coral, and then everything was overgrown.
<<It is possible that changing lamps improves these situations because it shifts which photosynthetic organisms light needs are optimized and therefore shifts which ones are consuming nutrients.  However, I have always suspected that it has more to do with the fact that aquarists often perform other maintenance duties at the same time as lamp changes.  In your case, I would quickly point to the nutrients released by your dying coral as a likely cause.>>
<Rainfordi gobies are beautiful fish, but will eat little or no algae regardless of size.  Despite assertions to the contrary, these fish are primarily 'pod predators.  I suspect that Rainford's and Mandarins are mistakenly touted as algae eaters because of their habit of picking at rocks (actually hunting, not grazing!).>
Actually, I have watched the rainfordi consume lots of hair algae (for his size).  In fact, it si the only thing I have seen him eat.  And it's definitely the algae, because he grabs the outward end, several inches from the rock or substrate, and then sucks it in like a noodle.  Now my target mandarin is another story......  PODS, PODS and more PODS!
<<I am very surprised to hear this!  I will have to re-check my sources.>>
<I don't agree with this advice.  A proper quarantine should not be
stressful.  Even if it is mildly so, any fish that doesn't survive the process was likely doomed.  If quarantine is properly carried out, any death should be considered proof that the quarantine was warranted.>
Sorry, I was clearly mixing up the PBT with some other fish I recently read about on WWM where Bob recommended no quarantine.  Either way, he's in there and doing great without a hint of Ich.
<<Perhaps not... I hear this advice about stressful quarantine quite often.  I can see the logic to a certain extent, but simply don't agree with it.>>
<Healthy PBT's are generally pigs that will greedily accept just about any prepared foods.  Do try some high quality flake (OSI,
Ocean Nutrition, Omega One).  A lawnmower blenny should make quick work of any hair algae.>
I tried a lawnmower, but it didn't eat the algae and died after about a week.  I guess I'll try another.  I have tried Omega One veggie flakes, but he won't touch that, either.  I'll keep trying (and reluctantly feeding brine until I get him to take something else!)
<<This is a common experience with Lawnmowers.  Some simply don't eat and starve.  I have also seen some in very algae laden tanks eat themselves to death!  As for food choices for the PBT, I would keep trying different prepared foods until you find one that he will accept.  I know it gets expensive, but if it makes it through the critical first couple of weeks, I suspect it will eventually come around and start eating anything you offer.>>
That's 5./6 mEq/l, and I stopped adding Bionic so as not to further increase it.  Now I am just adding an occasional Sealab 28 mineral block to keep calcium and trace minerals up.
<<I am not familiar with the Sealab product, but do suggest simply using the calcium component of B-Ionic until the alkalinity is back below 4.5.  After that, resume both components of B-Ionic.>>
Are you familiar with the Poseidon II skimmer?  I think it's a private model made by someone called Chris Shea.  He's got a website at www.nautilusreef.com  Thanks again.
<<Looks like a bargain knock off of Lifereef.  I would be a little leery of the fact that it appears that this skimmer uses rubber grommets for crucial fittings rather than good 'ol glue.  Do keep the old adage "You get what you pay for" in mind as you shop skimmers.  It really is true in this case.  Best Regards.  Adam>>

Using Nylon/Cable/Zip ties in aquaria 4/11/04 
Thanks as always for a great site. Your site has been an invaluable resource for setting up my reef tank. 
<all good my friend> 
I have a few unrelated questions for you, if you don't mind. The first is regarding my new check valve. I attached my check valve to two 3/4" slip adapters using a 2-part primer/pvc cement combo. I've attached the 3/4" hose to the adapters. I was wondering if it's safe to use nylon ties to secure the hose to the adapters? 
<for this purpose, I don't think they will help much. Far better to use a proper plastic or metal hose clamp (not too tight... firm is all that is needed)> 
To make it easier to clean, I was going to 
put the check valve in the sump with the return pump, so the ties and the check valve would be submerged in the sump. 
<ahh... understood. Do seek the plastic hose clamps for this (avoiding metal as you know)> 
My second question involves my pH. Over the past several months, I've installed and adjusted a Korallin calcium rector. I've raised the dKH to 14, but my pH rarely gets up to 8.2. 
<(small) yikes! Easy on the dKH there my friend. Despite what the hardcore SPS keepers say/promote, your dKH not only does not need to be over 12 dKH, but it is arguably a disadvantage. Aim for a more natural 8-12 dKH and you will find it much easier to also keep pH and Calcium in normal ranges> 
The 24 hour range is usually 8.05 - 8.18. My reactor shuts off at night, so the pH doesn't drop below 8.0. If I shut off the CO2, then my pH goes up to 8.3 or higher. I'm assuming that 
this means I have excess dissolved CO2, 
<very common in winter and summer in houses with tight windows/doors shut> 
but I'm having trouble dissipating it. 
<understood... and this is detailed extensively in our archives (can be tested for by aerating a glass of aquarium water outside of the house (garage) and seeing if the pH increases (it should not)> 
I tried adding a hang-on filter to my sump without any media. This didn't seem to help, although it greatly increased my water evaporation rate. I was wondering if you had any helpful advice for bringing up my pH. 
<likely trapped CO2 in the house> 
Here is a list of the pumps/filters I currently have that I'm using for water turnover: 
Rio 2100 (return from sump) 
Rio 1400 (in main tank for water flow only) 
Rio 400 (in main tank for water flow only) 
Eheim 1048 (in sump for a Turboflotor protein skimmer) 
My last question involves my Tubastrea coral. I've had this coral for almost two years, and it's doing very well. I feed it small bits of meaty food several times a week, and it seems to be growing nicely. 
<excellent> 
I currently have the coral resting on the substrate in the middle of the tank. I do this so that I can feed it easier. I place a cylinder that I cut-out from a 2-liter soda bottle around the coral to prevent my hermit crabs from stealing it's food. My question is whether I should move the coral so that it can grow over the rock work in my tank? In other words, if I put some live rock around the coral, will it spread to the rock or is it content to grow in the open tank? 
<more likely to spread by spawning asexually produced larvae. Its a common occurrence in well fed Tubastrea. We had a chap just write in the other day stating that his spawns with ever (intentional and unintentional) power outage near a new/full moon. This is consistent with some natural phenoms in nature> 
Thanks very much, Patrick 
<Joe Aiello of the Atlantis Aquarium wrote a fine article on spawning Tubastrea for the now defunct "Aquarium Frontiers" magazine (can be found online as I recall). Best regards, Anthony

Neurosis Explained - Stock list for Neurotics 
>Marina, 
>>Amy.. 
>Thanks so much for replying to my stressed out email! (Stock list for Neurotics) I know I sounded pretty grumpy about this whole aquarium thing. 
>>Oh, not so bad, really. I just like to include some entertainment in the messages. I must have busted your chops a bit, eh? 
>I do love it it just seems like I keep finding things that I can't identify or weird problems. 
>>My friend, it will NEVER end as long as you remain caught up in this illness we euphemize as "hobby". 
>I had expected to wait patiently, but I didn't know that I would be hitting all these glitches! I just thought you'd get a tank and a QT, but I now have a huge trash can filled with water, a powerhead, and heater. 
>>I am literally chuckling here: Everything they didn't tell you about owning a saltwater aquarium. 
>I didn't know that the hobby would require as much room. The time thing isn't a factor but I am a worrier. 
>>Hey! You too, eh? I was born and bred! 
>I got the live rock, which I had bought already cured. 
>>Really, no such thing. They've probably put it through a cure process, but when it's shipped more stuff dies, and it's got to cure again. 
>In the email you had said it sounded like I was doing some curing. 
>>Yep. 
>My problem is that every time I look in the tank I see something that freaks me out, I was expecting little starfish or some other surprise from my live rock. Instead on the first day I found little flowers that freaked me out, upon further research I found out that they're little feather dusters, social ones or something according to Bob's book, he has a picture of them in there. 
>>Kewl beans! In case no one's told you, expect all sorts of things that we can hardly identify as "life", too. Stuff that looks like bugs, parasites, icky things, squishy things, all sorts of stuff. It's part of the process, and actually is usually desirable. 
>Then I got the little green grape things. It seems like a daily thing when I 
find something new. I had the brown algae, and today's discovery are millions of little white things attached to the glass. And I mean millions! 
>>HA HA HA HAA HAA HAA HAA HAAAA!!! Amy, they're PODS (arthro, cope, iso)!! And they're a really good thing! (Please don't feel bad, it's just all so predictable, and causes so many folks such undue stress, if only you'd have known.) 
>So I'm back online and I think I have a pod of some sort. And it's so hard to know what to do, I thought it would be pretty cut and dry, but I get 4 different 
opinions from 4 different people! I like clear cuts answers. I have the Scott Michael book that I've been using for my fish reference, but it says to feed fish 3 times a day in a lot of instances, I called the LFS and they told me every other day for the same fish! Ahh! So I'm sorry my initial email sounded grouchy, I just get freaked out easy. 
>>Know this, you will *always* get a wide variety of opinions, but little will ever change about an animal's biology. So, let's say that (as a for instance) we're talking about, say, a lionfish's feeding. They're born and bred "sit and wait" predators. As such, they're waiting for the meal to swim by, which means they don't usually feed daily. Whereas something like a tang is actually like a horse, which means it's born and bred to graze ALL day long, and will do best if fed that way. Make sense? 
>I don't mind the work it's the research to figure out what I've got in my tank that's tough! 
>>It is both the (initially) hardest and MOST important aspect of keeping salt, but I think I told you that before. If not, it's my mantra. 
>I spend literally hours online, your site, Fishbase, and the Google image search are in my favorites section! I digress, anyway, thank you so much for all your help! You have helped me immensely! All the best, Amy 
>>I'm glad to help you, Amy. Try not to worry (useless to tell women like us something like that, huh?), and let the learning process become part and parcel, even if you didn't expect it. Let the unexpected become part of the fun, and you'll come to look forward to the surprises once your system's settled in. Marina

Clearing The Clouds (Cloudy Water) 
Dear Mr. Fenner, (crew too!!!) 
<Scott F. your Crew member today!> 
Thank you for your wonderful website and your book the Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Both have gotten me a far way in this most terrific of hobbies. I am now stumped, and a little frightened. First, my setup: 
1) 75 gal saltwater reef 
2) Filstar XP 3 with carbon, mechanical and around 1 Liter of porous bio-rock. 
3) 370 W of PC lighting, 260 W x 6 hrs and 370 W x 6 hrs per day. 
4) Seaclone (Aquarium Systems) venturi fractionator. 
5) 9W UV-Sterilizer 
6) Around 50 lbs live rock. 
7) Around 2-3 in fine (not sand) bed. 
8) Abundant Caulerpa 
Quarantine 
20 gal basic setup with Penguin and carbon 
Stock 
9) 1 True tank-raised Percula (Bozo) 
10) 1 Royal Gramma (The Dahli-Gramma) 
11) 1 Dusky Jawfish (Rocky) 
12) 1 Algae Blenny (Jessie the Vegan) 
13) 1 Green Clown Goby (Moe) 
<Priceless names...> 
Inverts 
14) Small Hermits (The Rockettes) and Snails 
multifarious 
15) Two anemone crabs (Tina and Ginger) 
16) Two porcelain crabs 
17) Hairy Lobster (Lily) 
<Sheesh- love the names!> 
Corals 
17) Propagated Xenia (doing great 4 mo around) 
18) Pagoda Cup (doing great, 1 mo around) 
19) Yellow Leather (comes out for 6 hrs per day) 
20) Propagated Derasa Clam (doing great, 2 mo around) 
21) Flame Scallop (doing great, 4 mo around) 
22) Mushrooms, multifarious (doing well, 6 mo around) 
23) Star Polyps (doing great, 2 mo) 
24) Rose Bubble Tip Anemone (1.5 wks around) 
<Good- I would have been afraid of you if you had names for them!> 
Levels 
In general, I am nominal zero in the following 
Ammonia 
Nitrate 
Nitrite 
Ph 8.3, sometimes dips to 8.0 
Hardness 6-8 usually 
Calcium, usually around 380- ish 
Today -
Ammonia 0 
Nitrate 0 
Nitrite 0 
Ph 8.3 
Hardness 6.5 
Diet: 
30 ml a and b of B-Ionic each morning 
2 tsp of Plankton twice a week. 
Seachem reef supplement once a week. 
1.5 tsp of Iodine once per week. 
small serving of brine shrimp and emerald diet once per evening for the fish. Phew, ok, now onto the real problem.  We have had this reef for around 6 months now, and it so far has done terrific. We have attempted to research most all of our purchases for compatibility, have quarantined stock, and basically have only had one ich infestation, that we took care of right away, fallow method. 
<Good job!> 
Around 1.5 weeks ago, we acquired a Rose Anemone to add to our tank. He has actually shunned light, and has been hanging out near the top where the light does not shine directly at him. Last night his tentacles were longer and stringier than usual, so we 
figured he was searching for food. We fed him a 1/8 x 1/8 x 1/8 in chunk of fresh frozen table shrimp into his tentacles. He immediately accepted the food and we went to bed. This morning the tank was very cloudy and it almost seemed like there were small solid colloids suspended in the water. (BTW, yesterday, I noticed our Caulerpa which looks like a fern (I have forgotten the name) became very porous, and went through a large die off, this has happened before though, and I am not certain is 
germane to what's going on right now, just thought I would mention it though, if it was) I have no idea what is going on, and from what I read on WetWebMedia, the most likely candidate that I see is overfeeding (even though I thought it was a small piece.) 
WetWebMedia (Anthony Calfo) also suggested to others such things as noxious gametes, spawning, and the like. This seems like it is improbable to me, since the anemone is still so new in our system. 
<Well, it is quite possible that the anemone did release a large amount of waste material as part of its "settling in" period. And, yes- the Caulerpa "going sexual" is certainly a possibility...> 
I more likely think that the anemone has dissolved the shrimp offered, and inadvertently, has sent molten shrimp into the tank community. Please let me know if this sounds reasonable, or if there is something else going on. 
<Well, it could be a combination of things, such as the event I suggested, and the possibility that you propose here. If it were me, I'd really make sure that your protein skimmer is working hard. Do keep monitoring water quality parameters> 
I am only picking on the anemone, since everything else has always thrived in the tank w/o anything like this happening. This morning when I found the problem, I immediately did a 40-45% water change, using carbon filtered water and temperature / 
salinity stabilized water (I must admit, I have not yet invested in RO/DI and holding tanks, my apologies, I promise to get around to it soon.) 
<That's quite okay- but an RO/DI unit is a great investment...> 
I am also thinking of heavily carboning the water for the next couple days, (it already runs some carbon). Are these appropriate actions? What else should I do? 
<I think that you are handling things just fine. My other suggestion might be to run some Poly Filter as well, as this material excels at removal of dissolved organics. You would also be well advised to embrace a stepped-up water change procedure, like my ad-nauseum- recommended 5% twice weekly habit. This can help dilute whatever this material is without being too dramatic for the animals> 
Thank you very much, this is my first time writing to you at WetWebMedia, and I hope that your prompt reply will help me out before I loose stock (not just stock, my little family).   Yours, Peter Kirk - Boulder, CO 
<Well, Peter- Think that your good, decisive actions and excellent insight into what's occurring in your tank will continue to benefit you and your little pals! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Question on my setup and parameters 3/28/04
Hi, I have a 36" x 18" x 30" tank with a left overflow to sump (sponges, bio-phos + carbon, bio-balls, bio-rings, skimmer (good 1/4 cup dark skimmate everyday), Eheim 1260 2500l/hr return pump (will be installing a 5500l/hr return pump soon). Using 2 x 250W SE MH 10K + 20K lamps around 4" above water surface.
<unless you are making/melting lava... this is truly, ah... obscene. Not only more light than is needed... but more light than is safe even for the shallowest sps specialist tank (4" off the surface is dangerous to you and your corals... 6-9" off for 175 watt halides - max). Please do reconsider this application my friend. If you will keep the 250 watt lights, you are limited to a very short list of shallow and tolerant species... and the lamps need to be at least 8-9" off the surface. Do not take my/anyone's word on it alone... buy/borrow a light meter and use it to see how serious the matter is>
A 1/2hp chiller maintaining temp. at 27C . Circulation is 1 x Eden 228 (1000l/hr) at top left rear corner blowing to the middle centre front, another Eden 228 at top right rear corner blowing  towards the overflow and lastly my return pipe at middle blowing to the top centre front. My water parameters & live stocks are as below. Feeding once every 2 days with either, Cyclop-eeze, cut prawn meats, phytoplankton or pellets.
<all of these foods and more please... good variety>
NH3 - 0 mg/l
NO2 - 0 mg/l
NO3 - 5mg/l
Calcium - 650ppm
Alkalinity - 10 dkh
PO4 - 0.1 mg/l
<650 ppm is nearly impossible (precipitous reaction/risk) and is not safe. Moreover, it will not grow corals any faster than 320-420ppm. Stability/consistency will. You clearly have been given system/setup advice by fringe sps keepers>
Live stocks :-
1) One paired maroon Clownfishes
2) 1 x Green wrasse
3) 1 x Stripe damsel
4) 1 x watchman goby 3" inch
5) 1 x coral banded shrimp
6) 1 x cleaner shrimp
7) 1 x peppermint shrimp
8) 1 x fire shrimp
9) 1 x blue lobster 3" inch
10) 1 x purple lobster 2" inch
11) 2 x maxima clams
problems :-
1)It has been 2 months since I introduce the acros frags & a colony into my tank,  although both the acros are growing and polyps are extending, but the colour still remains brown despite placing them at different heights from 12" to 18" under the MH under 10K and also 20K. Even recently I bought a purple base with blue tips Acro colony & place it abt 14" under 10K MH, the colour also turns brown after a week. Any idea what could be wrong? Overfeeding? too much calcium? lack of a refugium to extract the excess nutrients?
<the nitrate level is fine (arguably necessary to have some small amount)... your calcium reading is not accurate IMO... and the DOCs I cannot speak to, although without mention of nuisance algae growth, I don't think excess nutrients are your problem here. You may have to admit that your lights are truly too bright/close to the water (masking pigments in evidence as the problem). Have you also looked up the work of Sanjay Yoshi on the Internet (or Joe Burger in threads on Reef Central) comparing the actual CRI of various lamp brands? Do consider if your lamp is of a less than favorable color>
2)In the process of redesigning my present 24" x 15" x 20" sump to a 30" x 15" x 17" sump with refugium. What kinda filtration media should I use in the sump (bioballs, biorings, bioponges, coral chips?) Can recommend me how the sump should be partition or design given this fixed size(30'x15"x17")?
<first partition is to feed the skimmer if not already getting raw unfiltered water... the rest is to be open with strong water flow. Do keep it simple>
3)Was thinking of running 2 x Weipro 2012 skimmer which I'm getting good skimmate at the moment, or should I just upgrade to a good single Aqua C EV-150? Is 2 skimmer better than 1? or 1 good skimmer is enough?
<2 skimmers are much better than one on large tanks in particular so that you can clean them alternately and reduce the interruption of skimmate production. As to brand... I strongly recommend/admire AquaC brand>
4)My chiller inlet is taking from the sump & outlet tubing going back to the sump mechanical filtration compartment. Should I route the outlet tubing back into the main tank and use it to act as a circulation too?
<a very good idea>
5)As my tank is 30" deep, I need some advises on the placement of my 2 powerheads for better circulation as I still discover lots of tiny particles in the water.
<do read my article here on wetwebmedia.com (keyword search for "closed loop manifold) or on www.advancedaquarist.com (Sept or Oct issue of 2003) where I address this issue in detail. Many other water movement articles and FAQs in our archives>
I have bad experiences of blowing the PH from top right to left bottom and top left to right bottom as it will cut into the path of my Acros and causing RTN.
<yes... and power heads really have little or no place in an advanced aquarist's reef tank. Useful for getting new aquarists into the hobby affordably though.>
Therefore now I'm blowing the PH to the front and the rear where it does not cross on the paths of the sps corals.
6) What's the best cure for ich and white spots? Any good reef safe medication ? I do not have a quarantine tank.
<quite correct my friend... a QT is the only way. It is so small and affordable, no reason/explanation not to have one when you have such a big investment in $/lives in your marine aquarium. Once a disease is in your tank... running fallow is the best and nearly only the way to go. There is no such things as a "reef safe" medicant, no matter what the marketing folks want you to believe ;) Effective compounds will kill desirable and undesirable micro-organisms alike. Truly handicapping your bio-diversity. Please do set up and use a QT tank without exception! And remove any presently infected fish (easy to catch in morning with drain method - see archives)>
Attached is my tank pic... p/s: The 2 x powder blue tank is dead due to ich and white spots and both the toadstool leathers have been given away. Thanks, James
<to better days. Anthony>

Kacia's fish problems 3/22/04
Hey Adam, the tank was set up at the end of Jan. this year.  I know it goes through all the stages of algae and losing some fish etc. and I've been through all that, they have had ich several times and I managed to save a few from death on that one.
<Please don't add any new fish until your current ones have been ich free for at least two months.  Even then, please quarantine all new additions!
My chemicals are all great and my maintenance is by the book because I'm new at this so I follow directions!!
<It is really important to describe your practices and list the results of what you are testing for.  I trust that you are proceeding "by the book", but what if you got the wrong book!?<g>>
But I over fed them on the Garlic Guard for a while, no-one told me to stop putting it in their food when they start eating, I was just told that it was an appetite enhancer so I put it in with all the food!!! OOOPS!
<I'm not familiar with that particular product, but I doubt it is a problem unless you way over dosed it.>
But anyway, I had to give the poor fish a chance so I removed the live rock, it's now in my bathtub in cold water, no bleach yet(!)
<Yikes!  Even without bleach, prolonged exposure to fresh water will pretty much kill everything in the rock.  I recommend that live rock never be exposed to FW at all.>
But when we put it in the water in the tub out came hundreds of baby bristle worms, some other clear flea looking parasite that swims, and a skinny white starfish thing, also those little white thin worms.
<Parasites?  How do you know they are parasites?  All of the critters that came out of the rock are the beneficial critters that are the reason you paid good money for live rock!>
So will my live rock still be live after a freshwater soak??
<Nope.>
will the bugs be gone??
<Yep.  Unfortunately, even if there were some bad guys in the rock, all of the good guys are gone too.>
Also I forgot to tell you that the bugs crawling all over the sand and rock were black like little centipedes with antennas and legs. But my angel fish looks like it has cataracts with it's white eyes now and losing color on it's body too.  Kacia
<Black or gray?  Amphipods look kind of like "potato bugs" or "pill bugs" and are probably what you have.  Your fish problems are most likely related to water quality.  Please write back with a list of all of the tests you perform and the results.  This should include as many of the following as possible: Temperature, salinity, pH, Alkalinity, Nitrate, Nitrite, ammonia.  Please list the brands and names of your salt and any additives you use and how often and how much.  What is your water change routine?  When you have provided all of that info, we can solve your problem.  Best Regards.  Adam>

Inadequate skimmer, maybe?
>Marina,
>>Hi Ray.
>Thanks for the reply!  
>>You're quite welcome, Ray.
>Lots of good ideas for me to think about.  I have run into the same problem again with the WWM site....too much info and cant find the right answer to my question.  I am thinking of adding (as you suggested) a refugium.  
>>Alright.
>Tell me what you think of this setup before I get to my questions.
A 12"x4"x12" CPR AquaFuge refugium (space prohibits a bigger one) with CaribSea Mineral Mud and some macroalgae (looking at red Gracilaria because my tang LOVES it along with some Caulerpa).
>>I am not familiar with this particular product, though I haven't heard any horror stories on it.  You might want to Google it, try a few different key words and see if you can pull up any interesting threads.  I'd also try searching http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk - http://www.reefs.org - and http://www.reefcentral.com searching for that product.  If you do use Caulerpa, be very careful in how you prune it (remove BY the holdfasts, never simply cut down the stalks).
>Now, the questions:
1)  Do I need to add another light just for the refugium?  It will be right next to my current lighting fixture (4x55W PC, 2x10,000K 2xActinic) which sits directly on top of my tank (not hanging).  If I do need another light, how much for such a small refugium?
>>There may be enough "spillover" to handle its needs, but, if you do need supplemental lighting, I'd go with another PC unit.  I hear lots of folks have very decent results with the units you can find at Home Depot!
>2)  The Mineral Mud comes in a 1 gallon jug and that sounds like more than my little refugium needs.  Can I just add the extra to my current sand bed?  If so, how do you suggest going about that with minimal coating of everything in the tank?  Do you have any other (better)
suggestions than the Mineral Mud?
>>Just going with a finer sand (but not too fine).  You do want the bed to be fairly deep, a minimum of 3", 4"-5" would be more in order.  I, personally, wouldn't place any in the system itself. However, our own JasonC has kept his mud (not the same product, though, something from Walt Smith, IIRC) in fine mesh filter bags partially submerged in his sump.. at least, that's how it was last time I saw.
>3)  Is there any cycling/break in period needed when adding a new refugium to an established system?  I don't want to spike any chem levels and screw up what I have worked so hard to balance out.
>>No, but know that it will take a few months for the 'fuge to "kick in".  That is to say that growing the critters, including the denitrifying bacteria in the deep bed, simply takes time.  A bit of extra live rock in there helps the process, but either cure it yourself (using proper q/t protocol), or take some from the main display to avoid adding undesirables.
>4)  You mentioned that I probably have too many hermits.  Can I transfer a few of them to the refugium?
>>Yes.  Steven Pro recommends one small hermit/10 gallons tank volume.  Maybe you can get some credit on the 'extras' at a good local LFS?
>Here is an update for you as well.  There was a death in my tank.....a murder actually.  
>>EGADS!  SAY IT AIN'T SO!
>I came home to find my arrow crab eating what was left of my peppermint shrimp (who was alive 4 hours earlier).  
>>Tis a cruel, cruel crab.
>Before I could get him out of the tank, he then cornered and attacked one of my perculas and left a small cut on it's side.  
>>Holy expletive deleted!  (Rhymes with sit)
>The arrow crab is now back at the pet store....evicted.  The clown seems to be healing nicely so I am just going to keep an eye on him in case I need to transfer him to QT for antibiotic treatment.  Any suggestions on an antibiotic of choice if it does come to that?
>>Spectrogram.  But, better still, if you're not already start giving him food that's been soaked in Selcon a few times a week.  I advocate better nutrition practices as a matter of overall health and regular feeding in the first place.  Variety is key, with as much fresh/freshly frozen foods as possible.  Avoid feeding fish to fish, especially ANYTHING farmed (these fish are quite prone to disease/parasitic infection, and I just wouldn't take the risk).  However, anything invertebrate is good, and you're definitely on the right track growing fresh macroalgae for your tang.
>Thanks again for all your help and sorry for the long email....again.  I did get a laugh of the silly questions you have been asked!  You guys really should set up a "funny FAQ" section!
Well, enough procrastinating, back to studying!
>>Glad to be of help, Ray.  Marina