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FAQs about Red Calcareous and Coralline Algae Selection
Related Articles: Coralline Marine Algae,
Red Algae in General, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control,
Marine Maintenance, Nutrient
Control and Export, Marine Scavengers,
Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald Green Crabs, Sea Urchins,
Blennies, Algae Filters,
Ctenochaetus/Bristle Mouth Tangs,
Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine Algae,
Coralline Algae, Green Algae,
Brown Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae, Related FAQs:
Coralline Algae 1, Coralline Algae 2,
Coralline Algae 3, Coralline Algae 4,
Coralline Algae Identification,
Coralline Algae Behavior,
Coralline Algae Compatibility/Control,
Coralline Algae Systems, Coralline
Algae Nutrition, Coralline Algae
Disease, Coralline Algae
Reproduction/Propagation, Red Algae in
General,
Red Algae 2, Red Algae 3,
Red Algae Identification, Red Algae
Behavior, Red Algae Compatibility,
Red Algae Selection, Red Algae
Systems, Red Algae Nutrition,
Red Algae Disease, Red Algae
Reproduction/Propagation, Marine
Macro-Algae, Use in Aquariums, Marine
Algae ID 1, Marine Algae ID 2,
Marine Algae Control FAQs II,
Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient
Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters,
Culturing Macro-Algae;
Controlling: BGA/Cyano,
Red/Encrusting Algae, Green Algae,
Brown/Diatom Algae, | 
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Coralline algae dry and dormant? Commercial "LR" claims 1/13/09
Hi there, A quick question for you, <Hello Kim.> I have a
hobbyist that claims a retailer is trying to sell him DRY LIVE ROCK that
is "DORMANT." This struck me as rather odd, and possible marketing
nonsense. <It is. Live, but dry? Bunk!> His description of this
material: "basically dormant liverock waiting to add water, no need
for cycling, and it will grow coralline algae..." MY QUESTION: Can
coralline algae survive a dormant dry period, and storage as such, to
later resume normal growth in living form? <Hmm, no. There are
greater issues here too. What about the other biodiversity from true
live rock, it will not be here either. And to not need to cycle the
tank, this is a big load shoveled out here. Dry rock can be a cost
effective way to add more rock to a tank, but it is in no way shape or
form the equivalent to real live rock.> Thanks and have a great day!
Kim B. Parrish <Welcome, have a good one too! Scott V.>
Coralline Algae
9/27/05 Hello all: <Hello Mitch> I perused the plethora
of perplexing problems that were addressed in the FAQs on the
subject. However, I did not find an answer to my specific concern,
which I shall now pose. For roughly 5 months, I have had
approximately 130 pounds of LR in my 125G tank, in addition to
another 20 pounds in the sump of my wet/dry. The bio-media has been
removed. The LR in the display has taken on an orange/reddish color,
which I assume to be a type of coralline algae. My calcium level is
approximately 500 ppm with an alkalinity reading of 12 dKH. I have a
192W power compact that is placed 3" above the water surface. My
specific question is in regard to the color of the coralline algae.
As I see wonderful pictures of the lavender algae and desire the
same, please advise what I need to do to attain this goal and
approximately how long it should take.<Mitch, normally coralline
should seed within the first month. Lets start with lighting, you
don't mention the types of tubes you are using. Coralline loves
actinic light, hates white light. In nature, coralline grows best
deep in the ocean where only blue light can penetrate. For starters
I would use one true actinic tube in your fixture and keep this on
24/7 for two weeks. In your top off water use Chem's Reef Builder
and Reef Advantage in alternating doses. This will keep the
strontium level high which coralline does need to grow. Use of a
protein skimmer is highly recommended to keep phosphates at a low
level. Calcium levels of 400ppm with a dKH of 8 to 12 is all that
is needed. Try this and I think you will be pleasantly surprised in
three to four weeks. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks,
Mitch | Coralline Algae 9/27/05
Thanks, James, for the prompt response! I did not mention in my
first post, but this is a FO tank with just live rock and no
corals. Just so I am clear on the procedures to follow...
1. I have one actinic 96W tube and one white 96W tube. The
actinic comes on 1 hour before and turns off 1 hour after the
white, which is on for 12 hours. So, the actinic is on for a
total of 14 hours. Do I leave the white on for the same 12
hour daily cycle while leaving the actinic on for 24/7 for two
weeks?<Yes> Will the continuous actinic lighting be of any
concern for my fish?<No> 2. I have been using ESV's
B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System, the two component liquid system.
Should I stop using this product and switch to the Seachem
products that you recommend? <I can't tell you to stop using
a named product. All I can tell you is that I know the Sea Chem
works. I use it. I've tried the ESV years ago and personally I
really don't care for it. It's impossible to use equal amounts
of it and maintain 400ppm and 8-12 dKH. Keep in mind, I'm not
pushing Sea Chem products, its just one I tried and liked the
results. There are probably other products out there that work
equally well. Just my preference. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks, Mitch | Coralline Algae
9/27/05 Thanks again, James, for the info...much
appreciated! <No problem Mitch. I'm attaching a pic of a
rock that was lightly seeded two months ago. It is the rock on
the left. Pic not very clear but you'll see the results. James
(Salty Dog)> Mitch | 
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Brittle star and coralline algae question... I've poured over
your site and the net for a little bit of brittle star ID. I was hoping
you could direct me to a website that has a nice thumbnail listing with
pictures. I've tried
http://home.att.net/~ophiuroid/home.html, but that didn't work
either. <I suppose you've checked here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brittlestars.htm. Although I had no luck
locating a site either, the Modern Coral Reef Aquarium volume 4 has
excellent information and species descriptions w/ pictures.> I have 3
brittle stars all black or grey colored. one was sold to me as a
midnight crawler. I plopped em in before I became a daily reader of
your site as I am now 'enlightened'. I'm lucky enough to have a job
where I'm online 90% of the day (and I still can't find that precious ID
site) I've spent the last 2 weeks trying to read all your faq's (I'm
beginning to think it's impossible to read them all). I pulled my green
brittle star (damned assassin took a sally lightfoot crab and an emerald
crab). he paid a heavy penalty. I'll spare you the details. <I hope
that means you returned him to your LFS, otherwise there's no reason to
kill it for your mistake.> ok, one more easy question for you, o
great and mighty aqua gods! <lol> what are the benefits of coralline
algae. does it soak up nitrates and/or phosphates? <Not to any
practical extent.> does it release much needed oxygen into the water
column?? <Well, it is an algae so it would.> are there any other
benefits that you know of?? <It's really purdy. It is harder for hair
algae to get a foothold on it, so it is an excellent thing to have your
rocks covered with.> I can't imagine there are any detriments, are
there? <Well, if you have enough growing it will deplete your calcium
and alkalinity levels. This could be a problem if you don't test for
them.> I thank you in advance for your replies and for previous replies
welcoming me into the brotherhood (and sisterhood???) that
is....aquaria...my new love. <Haha, enjoy! -Kevin> hopefully I won't
need too much therapy later. Coralline algae (10-28-03) Hi
guys,<Howdy, Cody here today.> Your website has been such a great
resource lately, thanks for taking the time to make it available. My
question is: there is someone on eBay selling coralline algae scrapings
saying that it is a way to seed a tank. I was under the impression that
this type of algae always grows in the presence of live rock, but that
it would not grow until a tank is established for a long while. Any
help would be appreciated. <If you have some LR with coralline on it
should grow with time as long as you have the proper lighting, calcium…
If you don’t have any present in your tank you could buy a piece with
some on it and it will quickly grow. I would recommend you just buy
some LR with it on it as that is a much safer way than getting it
shipped to you. Cody>Thanks. Coralline Algae Growth
Hello Crew! <Hello, Ryan with you today> Just can't seem to find
the answer to these in the FAQ's (sometimes TOO MUCH good information to
find a specific question). <I know! It's a bit overwhelming at
times> 1. I have an open brain coral that I feed meaty treats
(shrimp, clam, squid) 3 times per week. I noticed that it has 3
mouth-like structures that I put the food directly into and it gets
sucked in. I have to stand guard else my ever hungry clowns will snatch
the food up. Is it necessary to feed each mouth? Can I just feed one
or two of them and the nutrients will get shared to the entire
organism? The third is a little hard to see/reach and this direct
feeding method is the only way I have found to feed it without others
in the tank (clowns, shrimp) snatching the food for themselves. <The
more each mouth eats, the better the entire colony will grow. Corals
grow in a very deliberate way; To make the most of a certain
environment. This said, I would either move the brain so that you can
feed the entire thing, or make the extra effort. As for snatching, it's
highly frustrating. Will a fish feeding just before will keep them
distracted long enough?> 2. On my live rock, I have tons of
coralline algae growing. Colors of purple, maroon, red, green and pink.
On my glass, pumps and base rock (tufa), I only have one shade of purple
growing. I would really like a mix of colors. Any ideas on how to
encourage this process or why only one is spreading from the live rock
to other areas? <One is outperforming the others at this given
time. What's your calcium level? Some varieties of coralline won't
grow unless high calcium levels are met. It's just a matter of luck,
time and patience. Perhaps you could graft the variety you like to
unclaimed territory before the more aggressive types have the
opportunity?> Thanks a lot. You guys are a real credit to the hobby
and I would be lost without you (or it least I would not have such a
wonderful tank). <Great to hear! Hope this helps, and good luck- Ryan>
-Ray New Liverock Came Shipped Chalky White Hello Mr.
Fenner: <Steven Pro in today.> I have never written to you in the
past and I spend at least 30 minutes a day reading all your great info
on your website. I just have to say that I find WetWebMedia very
informative. I just love it. I have your book and have pretty much read
it over and over. It has helped me a lot. <From all of us, thank you
for your praise. Be sure to tell your friends.> Now, here my question
if I may. Is there a trick to getting the coralline algae on liverock to
return? <No trick really. Maintain good levels of pH, alkalinity, and
calcium levels and supply adequate lighting.> This rock is brand new
to my tank. I purchased it from an online dealer (Aquacon). It is Tonga
branch and Hapai, 50 pounds total and has been in my system for three
days. It is as white as white could be, but, I thought I was getting
mostly red coralline covered rock. The rock was shipped this way. This
stuff is expensive! <Sorry to hear about your bad experience. Will
make a mental note for myself and I am sure many of our readers will do
the same.> My system has been up and running for 7 months now with 40
to 50 pounds of liverock purchased locally. Now, my system is a 75 gal
tank with an Eheim wet/dry canister, magnum 350 canister, Marineland
emperor penguin 400, two power heads and a prism skimmer (most of the
filters were on this tank when it was a freshwater setup). My water
readings are pretty good. Salinity 1.025, pH 8.3, alkalinity normal to
high (the test I have only shows a color chart no numbers), calcium 450,
and I add trace elements, Combisan once a week and Iodine drops once a
week. My lighting is a Phazer compact pendant light with two 55 watt
10,000k ultra daylight bulbs and two 55 watt actinic blue bulbs with a
grand total of 220 watts. Critters are as follows 1 Kole tang, 1 yellow
Coris wrasse, 1 yellow tail damsel, 1 Foxface Rabbitfish, and 1 spunky
coral beauty angel. I also have various cleanup critters red hermits,
blue hermits, turbo snails, sally lightfoot crab and a emerald green
crab. Then there are the hitchhikers on the previous liverock. Will this
liverock regain its color or always remain chalk white? <In time,
yes.> What can I do to bring it back? <Along with the items noted
above, patience.> Thanks so much for your help. Sherry Spitz <You
are welcome. -Steven Pro> Coralline question for Anthony Calfo
This is a question to Anthonalamidingdong, the Calfonator, the Calfitola
(ok I'm done) <but I'm not done yet: Father Calfo Sarducci,
Calfaroni... the Calfster... Antoine the Beautiful... Antoine the
vertically challenged... and once, only once... Sheila. OK... now I'm
done> in your book "Book Of Coral Propagation." You State on pg 215
in the section on live foods. That systems that are left unlit for up to
a year without predatory fish include extraordinary coralline algae
growth. Sorry I'm para phrasing. <understood... but not exactly my
sentiment/meaning. I'm referencing aquarists (many Europeans) that cure
their live rock for 6-12 months in the dark or dimly lit aquarium with
regular calcium/alkalinity dosing to boost corallines without the
inconvenience of competitive nuisance algae, grazing herbivores like
urchins, etc. All for the purpose of growing a massive coralline
population in advance of stocking. For us impatient Americans <wink> we
can get similarly good results by resisting hard grazing fishes,
echinoderms and gastropods for at least 4 months, keep Ca and ALK at
strong and consistent levels, and dose Reefchem's liquid calcium
generously (a sugar-based organic calcium that is excellent for spurring
coralline growth) > Your saying it will grow after the introduction
of lights. <nope... during the dimly lit long curing period> A
year later Right? <indeed a year is for the most patient aquarists.
4-6 months conditioning of live rock is very fine for most instead with
a long view> The tank wont have "extraordinary coralline algae
growths" from just ambient room light? <it may very well... but do
add some good reef lighting to prevent shock> By the way love your
book maybe one day it will be remade with more pictures so I wont have
to look up things like "Pachyseris" in a coffee table book for a picture
reference. <indeed a possibility!> Many thanks to you and the
whole crew. <our great pleasure> I'm eagerly awaiting your new
invert book that I preordered. <and with our kind thanks> I'm
also hoping for a new Fennerino, Calfster, Book in the future. <you
will not be disappointed, my friend> Keep on rockin... <...in the
free world and beyond> Your Compadre in Coral-Steve Buchholz <your
friend with a wicked wedgie, Anthony> Coralline algae
Bob, my 180 gallon tank is being over run with purple coralline algae.
There is a solid blanket on the back glass and I have to scrape the
front every two weeks. Any advise on how to slow this growth down?
Thanks tom >> There are a bunch of folks who would gladly trade
tanks with you... but there are a few ways to cut back on the encrusting
reds. You can cut back on your calcium concentration (are you
supplementing? Cut back!). You can add some competitive encrusting green
algae... like a Halimeda species... And increase your lighting... this
favors non-red algae photosynthates. There are some encrusting red algae
eaters... but let's hold off on these and opt for these other controls
for now. Bob Fenner Is white growth (algae?) on live rock a
good thing to have in a reef tank? >> Not a problem...
typically these are sorts of encrusting red algae that are missing
something (generally biominerals or alkalinity). Bob Fenner
Reef Redux Mr. Fenner, The time has come, and I now must redo
my 55-gallon reef tank. My question is if I scrub and/or boil the live
rock, will it ever grow coralline algae again? Or should I keep it wet
and simply pull all the little pieces of hair algae off one at a time,
and will that work? As always, I thank you immensely for all your help.
Thanks, Tracy <Corallines will grow on/over most any hard
surface... if you kill the ones on the rock now, other/spores can be
cultured on it later. Bob Fenner> Too much coralline algae too
much? Can one have too much coralline algae? <Mmm, it is
possible... mainly as a function of it out-competing other
biomineralizing livestock for nutrients (principally alkaline and
biomineral matter)... and looks-wise, sure... if you can't see into the
tank...> I have a 30 G reef setup and everything in it is purple! The
rock, snails, and hermit crab shells are all covered with coralline.
It's beautiful to look at, yet is it spreading too freely? <Maybe...
Please read through the coralline algae materials stored on the
WetWebMedia.com site. There is a search feature there to hunt by key
terms. Bob Fenner> Lucky, with anemone, clownfish Dear
Bob, Love your site and all the time you have put into it. I have a few
questions that I need to ask. I guess that I have been LUCKY, cause I
add no chemical and have had my 75gal. for about 4 years now.
<Perhaps lucky, but also smart... there is no to not much need to "add
anything" to a properly set-up, stocked and maintained system.> I
have about 45 to 60lbs. of live rock. I have several fish that I still
have since I first started. I have just bought a Sebae Anemone and it is
fine and the Clown is fine, but they have nothing to do with each
other. <May not be "compatible"... this happens... or may take some
time to become acquainted> It has been about 3 1/2 weeks and still no
change. One last thing, all of the live rock and my jets, glass is
purple and don't know if this is a good sign or what. <Better than
not> I live in a very small town in Mississippi, so I don't have very
many resources that I can go to for facts. <We have each other. Bob
Fenner>
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