Gracilaria parvispora culture  - 02/16/2006
Hi,
<Hello>
I would like to start growing Ogo as a food source for a few yellow tangs.  My problem is it is expensive and a screw up would be costly.  
So I would like to run my plan by you before I start.  I will put the Ogo in a 10 gallon tank, lighting will be 96 watts from power compact bulbs, and water motion will be provided by power heads pumping a total of 560 gallons per hour (more if needed).
<Not needed... circulation can be much less vigorous>
Nutrients will be provided from water from the main tank, and possibly from frozen food juice added once a week.  I write this because after reading from your archives I am kind of discouraged from others not so successful attempts.  Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Aron
<? Not difficult to culture... I would boost (through new water additions) the alkalinity and biomineral content... 12 dKH, 450 or so Calcium, about three times whatever calcium is in Magnesium concentration... and keep out other algal species... Bob Fenner>

- Gracilaria -
<Good morning, JasonC here...>
To the Best Crew There is:
So, I mail-ordered some Red Gracilaria, mainly for nutrient uptake.  I get the thing, and it's a huge "portion". I only have a 10 gallon QT, and it takes up like half the tank.  My problem is how do I keep it in place? Would a mesh bag or women's hose restrict it too much? <I'd think the bag would work better than the panty-hose.> I will have a sump on my 55 gallon display by the time it is ready to come out of QT, but either way I am going to want to keep it in place. <I'd go ahead and place this stuff in the sump. If the algae is from a reputable source, then you probably don't need to be so rigid about quarantine with is.> While I am here, any other fish besides tangs (i.e.: small/peaceful/community/reef-safe) eat this stuff? <The algae-eating gobies and blennies might eat it, but I'm not certain. Same goes for pygmy angels. Best to do some reading on those fish in the various sections on WetWebMedia.>
Thanks, Rich.
<Cheers, J -- >

Growing Red Gracilaria...
Hello folks,
It's Howard in WI again starting up Refugium number 2 for the second time. The intended purpose of this refugium is to grow more pods and a great deal of macro algae which, hopefully, also replace the Caulerpa in Refugium number 1(30 gallons of racemosa with 6 inch sand bed, pods, worms,  and some peppermint shrimp.)
<Cool>
Number 2 is a fresh start after a huge plague of red micro algae which came in with some live sand and wiped out all of the Gracilaria, Chaetomorpha, and shaving brush and then began to show up in the show tank. <Ew, fabulous.> I dumped everything and started again with a clean tank. I want to give the new Red Gracilaria every chance to grow and reproduce before adding anything else. It has a six inch sand bed and plants are placed on various levels from the surface to the bottom of the tank. About 300 GPH flows from the show tank overflow through a baffle box (removes any big chunks, the only mechanical filter) through the refugium overflows to the sump. No measurable nitrates, nitrites, or ammonia; ORP 350-370; Ca 400-500. I use no additives except bicarb and Kalk. Lighting is 250 watts of 10,000k CF 2 inches above the water surface. Water changes are 10% weekly. Fish, polyps, SPS and soft corals all beautiful. <Excellent>
My problem is that the new Red Gracilaria is already turning green to white on the tips. This is happening at various depths. What does it take to grow this plant? It looked great when it arrived from the vendor. There is nothing else in this tank to compete with it or eat it. Should I give up again and try something else? Is it too much light? Water too clean?
<Yep, that's the problem I've always had with Gracilaria is that it will not grow in a tank with a low nutrient load or one that is heavily skimmed. This stuff grows in high nutrient areas, I've heard little success of people getting this stuff to grow. Your best bet is Chaetomorpha, it's such a great alternative to Caulerpa. -Kevin>
Howard

-Yummy, yummy Ogo-
I have a Naso tang and it loves to much on "Ogo" (Gracilaria?).  I know that people use it in sumps for nutrient export, but currently, I don't have a sump (using a skimmer and LR/LS and regular water changes).  What would be the best way to keep Ogo fresh? In a bucket with SW? Should I run a filter? <It should be lit, kept at 76-82 deg, and filtered. You should be able to keep it for weeks like this in a bucket or small aquarium. Your Naso will thank you! -Kevin> Or just a powerhead?  Thanks. Yun

Growing Red Gracilaria 10/29/03
Crew,
<howdy>
I am following up on a question regarding the growth of Red Gracilaria.  Could someone tell me what is the optimal environment for which Red Gracilaria will grow?
<very bright light and strong water flow>
I have a separate 27 gallon tall Hex tank set up with a large pump inside for strong circulation.
<good>
I have tried to grow Gracilaria in this tank before but it did not seem to last that long (3 months) and the Tangs ate it faster than it would grow.
<correct... it is very palatable... sold commercially as "Tang Heaven" by IPSF.com>
What are the requirements for optimum growth?
<a separate vessel like a refugium acting as a vegetable filter>
Has anyone had any success with growing it?
<it is very easy and commonly grown. Just not in the display proper with tangs stocked too soon/early ;)>
Lighting? Are Florescent plant bulbs adequate?
<sort of.. not so much here though. Fluorescents are poor for deep tanks (beyond 12"). In traditional squat aquaria, 5 watts per gallon is reasonable at minimum>
Water Movement?
<strong enough to keep it tumbling>
Movement of Gracilaria?  Salinity?  Temperature?  
<all at NSW levels>
Nutrient Levels? What do I feed Gracilaria and how often?
<inline to the nutrient rich display is usually good enough for food. Again, keep in a refugium>
Any dosing ... Iodine, Calcium?
<iodine may be quite useful here... go light though>
Keep it by itself or with Live Rock and Fish?
<the former>
Thanks, Chris
<best regards, Anthony>

Growing Gracilaria
[*Note to Bob: Chris has shared with us a nice summary of his experience growing the popular macroalgae Gracilaria here. Perhaps we can place it prominently I the archives or FAQs for easy access/referral by the crew and WWM readers? Thanks, Anthony]
<Will do, Bob>

Growing Gracilaria 11/11/03
Hi Anthony, Thanks for your advise in response my previous email regarding the growth of Gracilaria.
<always welcome my friend>
I am just reporting back to you some good results on growing
Gracilaria - Red Macro Algae.
<much appreciated... this will be very helpful to add to the consensus for all to see/read and learn from>
In the first 4 weeks I have been very successful in acclimating the seaweed as I have seen some steady growth... new fronds and full color. I feel have established a very suitable
environment for this macro algae to grow effectively. Here are the specifications...
1. A separate tank - One with high nutrient levels. A tank dedicated to feeding just the Algae... but high Nutrient Levels a must. I add a silverside or formula 1 once a week.. but being careful to not overfeed the tank; over feeding may allow growth of diatoms and other competing micro
algaes.
<good points here: monospecific culture, as algae and plants are competitive (chemically and otherwise) with each other just like reef invertebrates. And the finesse of nutrients... not too much or too little>
2. Trace Minerals - I dose about 7-8 drops of both Chelated Iron and Magnesium daily and perform a small monthly water change to replenish calcium levels and other trace elements.
<the need varies by system... but you are finding your way here. Excellent>
3. Cold water - best growth for Gracilaria in between 60 F - 70' F.
<this is not necessary, although fine if it worked for you. Much Gracilaria is grown commercially in the shallows (at surface level) in the tropical seas on lines and tumbling in baskets>
4. Strong Water Movement - I have a 800 GPH pump  in the sump and it's  return to the hex tank at  a 12 " vertical spray bar which pushes & tumbles  the Gracilaria around the tank in a circular motion (like a washing machine). At no time is any of the seaweed just sitting.... it's always tumbling.
<yes... excellent and often overlooked by aquarists>
5. Strong Lighting - I have a 125 Watt Fluorescent Blue Actinic bulb hanging directly above the water column. Gracilaria grows in deeper waters and does better with Actinic Lighting.
<again variable here... the commercial culture of Gracilaria ("Ogo" of food fame) is done so at the surface of the water. But the genus is adaptable and wide-ranging. I would suggest more/brighter daylight here to most aquarists>
Please let me know of any individuals who are interested in purchasing 7-8 ounce portions of Gracilaria at a low price.
They can contact me directly at XXXX@hotmail.com.
<do be sure to establish it well in your local market through the LFS and aquarium societies so that you can retrieve some if/when your colony crashes>
Thanks! Chris
<thank you very much for sharing this Chris. Its always good to pay it forward. Anthony>

Growing Gracilaria 12/3/03
Anthony, Thanks again. Just another follow up... I have done a bid more research and testing and found that this particular species, (Gracilaria verrucosa) like most Red Gracilaria, reproduces seasonally, in the spring and fall by dropping off thousands of fine spores which attach themselves to the substrate and then germination and growth of spores are also influenced by environmental conditions such as seawater temperature, light intensity, salinity, etc.  Experiments have shown that the highest number of spores are released at 20–25 °C (approx. 70 F shows highest spore Desiccation). Any temperatures much higher or lower would not allow Gracilaria to develop the reproductive spores for Desiccation. Also, When mature plants are kept in seawater of different specific gravities, those in seawater of lower specific gravity would release spores earlier than those kept in water of higher specific gravity. I have seen spores develop immediately when I dropped the salinity between 1.015 to 1.017. This would explain why people have been unsuccessful with keeping Gracilaria alive for any length of time in systems with the higher Specific gravities. Just some more feedback. Here's a very interesting article on the culturing of Gracilaria...
http://www.fao.org/docrep/field/003/AC263E/AC263E00.htm
Thanks, Chris
<much thanks for sharing this Chris. Please do consider though that what happened naturally is not always the optimal way of culturing an organism, but rather simply what they have adapted to in their given niche. Commercial culture of this genus in warmer waters with brighter light and in tumbling suspension are established methods of exploiting better growth. Much like aquarium grown clams and corals that grow 4-10 X or faster than expected wild growth as we learn to finesse/manipulate species for optimal culture. Best regards, Anthony>