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FAQs on Marine Environmental Disease: Physiological
Issues; Metabolites, Toxins, Venoms, Allelopathy, Stinging...
Related Articles: Environmental Disease, Establishing
Nutrient Cycling, Marine
Water Quality, Maintenance,
Related FAQs: Environmental Disease
1, Marine Environmental Disease 2,
Marine
Env. Disease 3, Marine Env. Disease 4, Marine
Env. Disease 5, Marine
Env. Disease 6, Marine Env. Disease 7,
Marine Env. Disease 8,
Marine Env. Disease 9,
Marine Env. Disease 10,
Marine Env. Disease 11,
Marine Env. Disease 12,
Marine Env. Disease 13, & FAQs on Environmental Disease By Cause/Types:
Environmental Deficiencies,
Oxygen/Gas Problems, Poisoning, Mis-stocking:
Psychological Challenges, (Aggressive
Behavior,
Territoriality, ),
&
Troubleshooting/Fixing,
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Got a plan? Know what you're doing?
Don't we wish we could package "patience" and sell it in a bottle? Few
good things happen quickly with aquatic systems... When, where in doubt,
wait.
The list of stinging, venomous,
poisonous livestock... is VERY long... study, know your livestock.
Overt troubles? Water changes as a rule
are a good idea. Real overt troubles? Moving expensive livestock
immediately if not sooner.
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Caulerpa prolifera, bad exp.
related 2/16/08
Hello Crew,
After reading many of the WWM Caulerpa prolifera links and FAQ's I would like to
share my experience with this macroalgae. Tank: 29 gallon - BioWheel filter, 3
powerheads bounced off walls and moved 1-2 times/week, Fluval canister - carbon
and sponge media rotated weekly. Water parameters test normal - Ammonia 0,
Nitrates always under 10, Salinity 1.023-.025, Temp - 79-80 F. Do not dose -
weekly 4-5 gallon water changes with Instant Ocean salt. Excellent LFS test my
water for other parameters that I do not test for and all are within normal
range. (Because I don't dose, I don't regularly test for Calcium, phosphates,
other trace elements - rely on the water changes and the LFS for tests every 1-2
months). The inhabitants are 2 false Percs., a mating pair (4 clutches of eggs
since Dec. '07) and they have been the only 'fish' inhabitants for 2+ years.
Until recently, I had 4 hermit crabs (some 2 years old as well) and an emerald
crab, happily there for almost a year. Tons of purple coralline everywhere,
about 25 lbs live rock, several forms of red macroalgae, 3 thriving colonies of
brown polyps and one lone mushroom (Ricordea) - polyps and mushroom also 2+
years in this tank. Several other types of macros - mostly red and not nuisance
(Identified on your site - thanks!)
Now to the Caulerpa prolifera - On January 2, 2008, I added a handful of the
weed into my tank, along with a properly acclimated cleaner shrimp from my
trusty LFS. The shrimp very sadly died within 48 hours - like it was being
poisoned. I did water changes immediately and did not want to introduce another
shrimp or any other creature. Within 10 days, my emerald crab was MIA and now
presumed deceased. I am down to 2 hermit crabs. Polyps and mushroom are
shriveled up and only partially extend after the water changes. Thankfully, the
clownfish seem fine - still producing a clutch - but not like they were prior to
the introduction of the Caulerpa prolifera.
After reading everything I can find on your site and from the countless hours
monitoring the health of my little tank, I think the Caulerpa is killing my
inverts. Plan to carefully remove all of it today, followed up with even more
rigorous water changes and increased carbon. I'll keep you posted on the
progress. With a 29 gallon tank, the Caulerpa may be too great a risk - simply
not enough water volume to handle any toxins released - even with water changes.
Any thoughts on this matter?
<Is a possibility here for sure>
The recent problems in my tank brings me to another question. I do not have a
protein skimmer because of the low bioload and frequent water changes and
because the original inhabitants have been thriving for so long.
<Mmm, would help>
However, recent events have changed my mind - scared me, really and I'm going to
purchase an HOB/HOT skimmer. Choices are the Tunze Nano or Aqua C Remora Nano
(rated for 25 gallons). There are many reviews on your site - any personal
preferences?
<Both are excellent here>
Do you think the Aqua C Nano is sufficient?
<Yes, likely so>
Is the Aqua C Pre-bubble box required?
<Might be... try it w/o and see>
(I don't plan to add anything else except 2-3 hermits and a cleaner shrimp if
and when the polyps unfurl/things get healthy again) Thanks for this site and
all your work.
Cheers, Kellie McIvor
<It will likely take a few careful vacuuming/water change procedures to rid
yourself of the Caulerpa... but I'd proceed. I do encourage you to skim out the
weedy bits, turf them into your garden and not down the sanitary sewer... if
yours discharges more/less directly to the sea... as this noxious weed can be
too-easily transplanted in this fashion. Bob Fenner>
|
Linckia Starfish And
Possible System Poisoning – 02/15/08
Dear WetWebMedia crew (what should we do without you?),
<<Hello Michael>>
I have a question concerning my Blue Linckia starfish.
<<Mmm, okay…but be advised, this is a species better left in the ocean>>
I have been reading a lot of FAQs concerning starfish, and I must say
that I am a little worried.
<<Indeed…these starfish have a dismal survival rate>>
I have an 80 G reef tank, with various fish and corals. I also have 2
Seastars, a Blue Linckia and a Fromia.
<<The latter is a much more aquarium hardy species>>
But for what I have been reading my tank is too small for a Linckia,
<<Yes…but only one of many issues re the survivability of this starfish
species>>
and that if it dies it can wipe out my entire system?
<<Can decompose and pollute a smallish system very quickly…and not
likely to be quickly consumed/appreciated by the scavengers available in
your system. But I’m doubtful of an entire tank wipeout here…though this
is much dependent on existing filtration>>
Should I remove it?
<<Is up to you…maybe you can return it for store credit>>
I have had it for 10 months.
<<Well, I must admit this is surprisingly long…especially considering
the size of your system>>
Thank You,
Michael Fick
Denmark
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell…South Carolina>>
Re: Linckia Starfish
And Possible System Poisoning – 02/16/08
Hello Eric,
<<Good morning, Michael>>
Thank you for your reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
Eric, let me ask you more directly. Would you remove the Linckia, if it
was your system?
<<Hmm… Well Michael, considering this animal has been in the system for
ten months now…with a good protein skimmer installed, I would leave it
be unless it is showing or begins to show signs of decline
(degeneration/loss of limbs)>>
My system (my first) is a year old.
<<I see…and was (still is) much too new when you introduced “this”
starfish. Yet, it is still alive after ten months in your system so I’m
guessing you got one of those “very rare” individuals that make the
adaptation to captive life…and…you are doing something/there is
something about your system that is keeping this animal healthy>>
The plan is to upgrade the system to 140-150 G.
<<Sounds great... Am sure you are aware but, do be cautious during the
move and reacclimation to prevent exposure of the starfish to the
atmosphere>>
But that is not before in a year’s time.
<<Ahh, the anticipation…and good time for researching the livestock you
think you might want…before you buy [grin]>>
Thanks,
Michael Fick
Denmark
<<Happy to help. EricR>>
R2: Linckia Starfish
And Possible System Poisoning – 02/16/08>
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Michael>>
Thanks again for your (quick) reply.
<<Always welcome>>
Yes, you’re absolutely (unfortunately) right, I knew very little about
this starfish when I bought it, which is why I was a little reluctant to
write, because I knew that I could come in "trouble" for that.
<<Ah, yes…but only a minor scolding this time…just make sure you learn
from the incident and don’t become a “repeat offender” [grin]>>
But you are absolutely right, I should never have bought it without
doing research first, and then I should still not have bought it.
<<Untold animal lives and hobbyist anguish could be spared with but this
one simple rule…and oh yeah, a comprehensive application of prophylactic
freshwater dips for our piscine friends…>>
And that is one of the reasons I really like you guys, I can trust you,
you are not trying to make a buck off me.
<<Indeed…and “thank you” for the vote of confidence>>
I am very happy that I stumbled upon this site four months ago, purely
by accident; you have saved me a lot of grief, a thousand thanks. I am
very grateful.
<<We too are pleased you have found us and to be of service>>
Michael Fick
Denmark
<<Be chatting, my friend. Eric Russell>>
P.S Do you know when the new edition of Bob’s book is out?
<<Hmm, I believe I saw where he stated it had gone to the publisher some
weeks ago…so maybe soon. Perhaps Bob will see this and elaborate.
EricR>> <I know naught... should be any time now... RMF> |
Porcupine Puffer Help... actually, just
reading re mis-stocking, maint. of FO sys. 7/4/08
Ok, will start with my set-up. 65 Gallon,
<A Diodontid needs more room than this>
have a CPR BakPak and Red Sea
Prizm Skimmers. Filstar Canister Filter rated to 75 Gallons, currently filled
with live rock as the media. 2 Powerheads. Have 60-70 Pounds of Live rock and
about 50 pounds of live sand. System has been running for about 6 months with 2
Volitans lionfish.
<These also...>
I had my water tested before adding my little porcupine and it read 7.9 pH,
<Too low...>
10 Nitrate, 0.2 Nitrite, and 0.2 ammonia,
<... both deadly toxic>
Salinity was 1.018.
<Too low...>
The puffer is only about 4" right now. I am planning on getting a bigger tank,
probably 125 within 6-8 months.
<Too late>
So I figured water was at good quality before adding my puffer, and I had time
before getting my bigger tank for him to grow a little. I have had my porcupine
for about a week now. The first 4-5 days he was fine and healthy just swimming
about the tank checking things out. The sixth day was when he finally ate
something, just a couple of krill. Couldn't get him to accept the silversides.
On day 7 I woke up to the blue in his eyes gone, they are also larger than
normal and slightly hazy, he also had a film coming off his spikes and around
his eyes.
<Good observations>
He was swimming around bumping into everything as if he couldn't see. When he
wasn't swimming and was laying on the sand he is breathing heavy and appears to
"cough" every 5-10 seconds. Before today I had been doing about 5 gallon water
changes every other day. I panicked a little and did a quick 7.5 gallon water
change before testing the water. I then ran to my LFS to grab some meds.
<... environmental>
I was given a Malachite Green and some Maracyn-Two. I came home, set him up in a
freshwater bath with the malachite green for about 20 minutes. While this was
going on I tested the water. pH 7.9, 0.2 Nitrite, 0.15 Ammonia, 40-50 for
Nitrate, and 1.023 for salinity. I then did another 7.5 gallons of water change.
Put puffer back into my main tank and added the recommended dosage of
Maracyn-Two to the tank (2 Packets per 20 gallons, so I added 6 packets). Also
every water change has been with mixed RO water and salt to a 1.025 Salinity.
The 2 lions seem to be in great health still.
That's the story up to today. I think I have solved the stuff that was found on
his spikes. As he coughs he is blowing the sand up around and onto his back. So
it seems to be just stuff he is kicking up out of the sand. My question is this.
How many and how frequent water changes should I be doing from this point
forward to get him healthy again, should I be doing a daily freshwater bath with
the Malachite Green, and should I continue with the recommended five day dosing
of the Maracyn-Two. Any other meds you can recommend?
Your help is appreciated.
<... No "meds" needed, nor desired. But reading (by you) is... see WWM re the
Systems for these species, Ammonia, Nitrite... You're headed for disaster... at
a fast clip. Bob Fenner> Ich on corals? Cnid. allelopathy, esp. dangerous in smaller vol.s
3/28/07
Hi guys! I'm hoping you can help me out of what I'm afraid might be my 1st
experience with Ich (or marine velvet). I have a 24g Nano with MH lights,
temp=80, spg 1.025, ph=8.3-8.4 (depending on am or pm measure), calcium=450,
nitrites, nitrates and am=0. I do 3g H2O changes weekly. We have 2 true
Percs,
a royal Gramma, 2 peppermint shrimp, assorted snails and hermit crabs. Corals
include Blasto, assorted mushrooms, Zoas, sun coral (my favorite), toadstool and
Plays.
<Yikes... trouble with all these disparate Cnidarians down the road... with
growth... do settle on not adding any more species... and DO be diligent re
maintenance>
I noticed white spots on our palys 4 days ago, and they have gotten worse. I
removed and gave to a friend to put in his hospital tank (I am getting one
tomorrow!).
<Good moves!>
Now I noticed that the Gramma is looking beat up. and scratching itself on the
live rock. He's not breathing heavy, though. I think I see 2 pinhead white spots
on the fin of 1 of the Percs. I plan to take all 3 fish and put in hospital tank
as soon as I have it set up, but I'm wondering if the corals are at risk of this
parasite, since it seemed to start on the palys.
<Mmm, not likely a parasite... of any of them... But very likely a matter of the
fishes being exposed to types of chemical warfare twixt the stinging-celled
life... "Caught in the cross-fire" so to speak">
I have had them for 1 mo already. I just don't want to treat the fish, and wind
up with all the corals getting this white stuff too! Please advise! Thank
you!!
-Debbie
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm
And the linked files above... Perhaps my write-up on Tom Walsh's small systems
from years back... The "Garden Mix" of Zoanthids, Scleractinians et al. you list
is possible, though not really practical in small volumes... these sessile
animals species have varying, but highly effective strategies for "saving
space", hogging light, gathering food exclusively to themselves... These potent
stinging, poisoning, over-growing mechanisms easily play havoc in small captive
systems... As you are experiencing. There are a few strategies for limiting the
morbidity and mortality here... Read on. Bob Fenner>
Sea Apple = A-Bomb
03/25/07
I am completely heartbroken and devastated. All the fish in my main
saltwater tank (135 gallons) were just killed by a Sea Apple that
eviscerated while I was at work except for three fish.
<Unfortunate, but all too common. I am sorry for you loss.>
Only two paired Ocellaris Clowns and one Blue Green Chromis
survived. Fifteen others sadly
died, including four cleaner shrimp. Apparently this happened when my local
electric company temporarily terminated electricity and my equipment turned
off. I came home to find the devastation, dead fish everywhere and the
worm-like insides of the Sea Apple were all over the tank.
<Such is the risk of keeping Holothuroids in a populated tank. Evisceration
is really more of an eventuality than a risk. It most likely WILL happen
and at an inopportune moment.>
By the way, there were all kinds of unidentified creatures in the tank that
I have never seen before, some were crab-like, others had shapeless forms
and were about a half inch wide, what are these things?
<Various Polychaete worms, and other crustaceans most likely. Impossible to
say for certain without a photo, even then exact I.D. is hit or miss.>
Fortunately I had a second tank where I put the three fish (24 gallon
Nano). They seem to be doing OK.
<This is a good thing. Why don‘t you have a Quarantine tank?>
Unfortunately, I have a pair of established Tomato Clowns that immediately
started hassling the Ocellaris’ and the Chromis so I caught one of the
Tomato Clowns and put him in a ventilated breeding unit to isolate him from
the others. I am working on catching the other which is hiding in his
Bubble Tipped Anemone, I hate to have to do this but I want the stressed
fish from the other tank to be able to relax and de-stress without being
chased all over the tank.
<Another reason to have the quarantine tank.>
Do you think this is a good idea?
<Would be better to have a quarantine tank. Go purchase a 10 gallon tank,
and a heater and filter. Place some established media from the Nano that
you have into it’s filter. Then place your stressed fish into it. This is
much better than hassling an established environment.>
I need advice on what to do now with the main tank.
<Siphon out the remaining viscera, and about 70 % of the water. Over the
next few days do a 20% water change each day. This should dilute the
poison. Make sure that you get ALL of the dead animals. They will be
broken down as part of Nitrification, and will pollute your tank.>
I will remove the dead fish but what do I do with the corals, they seem to
all be fine, will they survive?
<Hard to say. Time will tell.>
Should I remove the corals immediately to plastic container with chemically
adjusted RO water? Or should I risk putting the corals in my 24 gallon
Nano?
<I would follow the water change plan firstly. Then if the corals start to
degrade I would consider moving them. You don’t want to do anything drastic
that might crash the Nano too.>
Would that possibly poison the water in the Nano?
<I would think that the increased bioload would cause problems.>
I also have two Crocea Clams, will they likely survive?
<Again time will tell. Please see above Re: Water Changes.>
After I remove the corals and snails or anything else that is still alive
what should I do with the water? I would assume I should completely drain
it, is that correct?
<Please see above. I would NOT drain all of the water.>
What about the live rock and live sand, what should I do with them? How
will the worms die and how should I get rid of them?
<Not really sure what you are asking. I was under the impression that these
worms were already dead. If not, then NO LEAVE THEM ALONE. They are GOOD
for your system, and are present in all healthy systems.>
Are these worms toxic themselves and if they remain alive in the rock after
the cleanup are they harmful to the tank?
<No. They are your friends. Likely came out because they sensed carrion
which is what they eat.>
After a complete water change which I’ll assume I should do, how soon can I
replace any fish and corals?
<Do not do a complete water change. I would do one large change and then a
few days worth of 20% changes, and then a weeks worth of small 5-10%
changes. Start adding fish one at a time and QUARANTINE them. I would say
one fish every two weeks.>
Should I treat the tank in any way? Do I have to completely recycle the
tank? Could you please take me through the proper steps I should take at
this time, I need help.
<If you don’t change all of the water at once you should be fine. There are
obviously some creatures that survived.>
When I eventually pick myself up and slowly add fish back to the tank I vow
to always listen to the advice of the WetWebMedia crew. You guys know what
you are talking about.
<Thank you for your kind words.>
My story is probably a typical one; I asked about Sea Apples from a LFS and
was told that they were harmless filter feeders.
<More or less true, unless you irritate one.>
I was attracted to their bright colors and figured I could trust the store
owner. I didn’t do my research and found out a few days later through your
site that Sea Apples were potential killers and should be avoided.
<Doh! You should always research before purchase.>
I contemplated returning the Sea Apple and was strongly leaning toward doing
just that until I did some further research with obviously less
well-informed “experts” that theorized that a tank wipeout was extremely
unlikely.
<They obviously have not kept Holothuroids for extended periods of time…>
They also said that most of the fish would survive even if it did happen and
there likely would be time to get the fish out.
<Again Holothurin/Holotoxin is a very powerful neurotoxin. It also depends
on the kind of Holothuroid that you have. Some are worse than others.>
Unfortunately, you were right and they were dead wrong and my fish paid the
price.
<Sad to hear this really.>
I feel responsible because I was forewarned by you after I bought the Sea
Apple. I had a healthy thriving tank with no deaths for seven months. The
water was good, I was doing routine water changes, all the fish were healthy
and I had the Sea Apple for about six months with no problems. I have
learned a painful lesson and I vow to be a more conscientious fish owner
from this point forward.
<We all learn from our mistakes. Everyone was new to this at some point.>
I usually follow your advice to the tee but all I takes is one major
mistake. I also learned to never trust my LFS without doing research before
hand. I know this is a touchy subject but what would you do in this
situation regarding the LFS that sold me the Sea Apple. What action and I
don’t necessarily mean legal action would you take.
<I would make my situation know to them. If they seem unconcerned or
callous about your plight, I would further go to the local Marine Aquarium
Society. I would tell them what happened and ask that they not patron this
establishment. You could put up a blog to share this experience, etc.>
I am curious to read your response. In the meantime I can really use some
immediate help with this mess ASAP.
<I hope that this helps.>
Thank You,
<You are welcome.>
(please feel free to post this for others to read in the Marine Aquarium
articles)
<This correspondence, like all correspondence to WWM will be
posted. Brandon.>
Have you received this, I haven’t seen a response.
3/26/07
<Yes this was received. Should be an E-mail in your in box waiting on
you. I have a copy of the response that I sent. Let me know if I need to
resend it.>
Where will I see a response, I could use some help with my problem.
<You have received an E-mail, and you can check the response on the daily
FAQ section of the site as well.>
Thanks
<You are welcome. Brandon.>
Death of LTA Causing Pollution – 3/29/07
Hi crew,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I haven’t written in a while, but have a somewhat urgent question that I can’t
find the answer to. I had a purple long tentacle anemone that mysteriously
decided to leave his spot in a rock and apparently somehow tore his foot in the
process. He actually looked as if I had forcibly moved it. I never touched it
by the way.
<Did it come in contact with a power head?>
Anyway it was injured and then began to go downhill and within a couple of days
totally disintegrated, died and had to be removed. In the process of removing
it, it pretty much came apart and many parts of it (very small parts) went
everywhere throughout the tank.
<Yikes!>
The tank is 150 gallon with a large ASM skimmer so I wasn’t too concerned and
figured that the skimmer would take care of getting the stuff out of the water,
along with the crabs.
<Not necessarily fast enough. I suggest a large water change also. I also
don’t recommend crabs with anemones. Crabs have been known to pester and
attack these creatures.>
I have no idea what happened to make him move or why he died, but my question
really is this: I have a tube anemone that I have had about two weeks.
<Your tube anemone is likely the reason your LTA decided to move. You should
not house two anemones in one system.>
He has been very active and healthy, stays totally open all the time and looks
gorgeous; he has never closed since I have had it. This morning I get up and
the tube anemone is TOTALLY closed.
<Check your water parameters.>
I have not seen this at all since I got it. Last night he was wonderful and
seemed normal. Could he be suffering some sort of reaction to the death of the
purple anemone?
<Yes, from the pollution.>
I have heard something about toxins getting in the tank when anemones die. Would
this have happened and caused the other to have problems?
<Yes, ammonia is extremely toxic.>
My water parameters were tested the day before the purple anemone died and they
were all perfect. No ammonia, no nitrates, nitrites, phosphates, SG1.024,
<Salinity at 1.026 is best for anemones.>
Temp is always 78-81 night to day and I have lots of light MH and actinic,
lots. The calcium is steady at 440 to 460 and the ph 8.4. These tests were the
day before the purple anemone death; I have not tested this morning. Any help or
insight into this would be most helpful. I don’t want to lose this other
anemone too.
<You definitely need to monitor your water parameters closely after something
dies. Have saltwater ready at all times in case of an emergency.>
Thanks, Debi
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Sea Apple... dying, removal,
potential 8/7/07
Help Please,
<Will try>
I have a 160 gallon salt water tank. The tank is 34" tall. I have a sea apple
that apparently is starting to die.
<Yeeikes>
I've had it for 9-10 months It usually stayed out in front, moving around
normally, but has now moved to a cave and has gotten smaller. I can see pieces
of it starting to deteriorate, however it's color is still pretty good. I cannot
reach it to remove it without moving a 100 lbs of rock and upsetting the rest of
the tank. Is there anything I could/should be doing during the dying process?
<Yes... carefully remove it... and the water around it>
All other corals and fish are exceptionally well at this time and I want to
really avoid a major crash.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
<Tongs, a small net and definitely a good large-diameter siphon... and the use
of a good volume of high quality carbon. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cukecompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Rich Sarno
Sarcophyton leather toadstool (and the near death of my tank) -
04/16/06
Hello,
<Hi, Leslie here with you today>
Maybe I'm an idiot but I learned a important lesson this week, thought it would
be a good idea to share this with people.
<I doubt that . Admitting and sharing our mistakes so others can benefit from
them is a very honorable gesture. Thank you! >
I took my leather toadstool out of the tank and thought I would propagate it by
cutting it in half. Well when I cut it open a massive amount of " juice " came
out (no big deal) I rinsed it off with saltwater and put it back into my
tank. Well within 5 minutes my fish were going nuts, my Kole tang turned so
pale he was almost white and was instantly covered with spots, my Clownfish was
breathing very heavy, my Bubble Tip Anemone looked completely dead and my finger
leather closed completely. Needless to say I freaked out and did a quick search
on Sarcophyton being toxic to fish, yup found out the extract can kill your fish
in 30 minutes. I quickly went to the LFS I work at (no one that works there
knew this was a deadly procedure) and picked up 15 gallons (55 gallon tank) of
water and did a quick water change (and dumped the toadstool). My bubble tip
immediately looked completely normal, the fish resumed breathing normally and
other than an ich outbreak everything was fine the next day. Anyway just wanted
to let people know that if you are going to do something like this make sure you
have a really good carbon filter that moves a lot of water quickly, and I would
definitely not attempt doing cutting one up in your tank. Found it interesting
that everything that I read about propagating a leather said nothing about it
being toxic, found out that there are actually 50 toxic chemicals in a
Sarcophyton leather toadstool (after the incident of course). Like I said,
maybe I'm an idiot but I just wanted to get this out there so people don't
repeat my mistake.
<You made a mistake. I know for a fact you are not the first and you will not be
the last. We all make mistakes. It seems to be the theme for today’s queries. I
have certainly made my fair share. An idiot most likely would not have acted as
quickly as you did to resolve the problem. Your quick thinking and action
hopefully saved the rest of the creatures in your tank. Fingers crossed that
they recover from the ich. I don’t do any propagating myself but most of the
folks I know that do use separate propagation tanks.>
Thanks.
<Thank you for sharing your story. Best of luck with your tank, Leslie>
Toxicity of Cyanobacteria... can be extreme 8/27/06
Hi Crew,
<Thomas/Tom>
I have developed what I believe to be a Cyanobacteria problem in a 30 gallon
with 2 Gobies, 2 soft corals, and 1 Fireshrimp. This algae is purplish in color
and sort of thread-like, forming masses that hold together reasonably well.
<Is likely a BGA>
I have found several suggestions on your site about how to go about correcting
this problem, which I will get to work on. But I still have a question.
Prior to water changes, I have been attempting to break up this algae to syphon
at least some of it out during those changes. I have noticed my Fireshrimp
suffering after water changes (looks bad, like he might not survive). In
today's change, I noticed that he looked bad, before the new water goes in,
which is why I started to suspect this had something to do with what I was doing
to the algae.
<Mmm, either this and/or some part/aspect(s) of the new water... Both very
common>
So, can disturbing Cyanobacteria release toxics into the water that serious
affect a Fireshrimp, but not Gobies or soft corals?
<Oh yes. Bob Fenner, touching on this subject today at a presentation to the
NJRC in Pt. Pleasant, NJ>
Thanks,
Tom
Urchin mysterious death-poisoning of tank 02-05-06
Dear Crew,
<Dawn>
My tank recently crashed. Most everyone was saved, except the fish, who
perished very quickly. It happened while I was at work; my housemate reported
tank looked great at 3pm. It was cloudy / milky by the time I got home 3.5 hours
later, fish were dead, and most everything else was severely stressed.
I suspect the death of a Diadema setosum or Antillarum (not quite sure which
it was) is what triggered the crash.
<Could, yes>
I think it died, (it hadn't been well for some time, it had dropped it's spines
3 times in recent months), and in turn created a toxic soup that caused tank
crash.
I do not have good facts for this, just my suspicions. I've been researching
for info re: toxicity of urchins in the tank once they die, but having very
little success.
I did find this on WWM, but little else in the Urchin articles and FAQs -
"There are no absolutely reef safe urchin species IMO... too much chance of
mysterious death-poisoning of the system" ~ Bob Fenner.
My questions:
What leads Mr. Fenner to the above conclusion?
What can you all tell me about the death of sea urchins poisoning a tank?
Could you point me in the direction of additional information?
Thanks in advance and kind regards,
Dawn
<http://www.google.com/custom?q=urchin+poisoning&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Re: Urchin mysterious death-poisoning of tank 2/6/06
Thank you for your quick reply.
<Welcome>
I had done that particular search (and others as well) on WWM and read the
articles / FAQs that came up prior to posting my question. The first hit on the
search results is the one from which I drew Mr. Fenner's quote. I have in
addition done much looking on the web, thinking it must be common enough that I
would find many sources of info.
There is a great deal of info surrounding being poisoned by mechanical
injuries involving urchins, but I am having difficulty finding info about the
death of an urchin poisoning a tank.
I've also approached local LFS', all of whom profess they've not heard of
such a thing as a dead urchin poisoning a tank.
Would it be possible to give a quick outline of your understanding of the
issue of urchin death poisoning the tank?
Thanks again,
Dawn
<Just this: that these events are positively correlated anecdotally. Bob Fenner>
Sea slug Toxin? Oh yes 02-05-06
Morning guys!
<Too cheerful...!>
Just found your web sight and it's now booked marked!
<And the site too?>
I've been searching all over the web trying to find an answer to my problem!
About a month ago I purchased a beautiful sea slug. A week later I found it
dead, caught in my filter.
<Yikes... am trying to put away the pix from the last trip... and am on to the
Opisthobranchs... and reading re just how toxic some of them are... no wonder
they can be so gorgeously colored and not predated, eh?>
A week later all my fish except for one damsel were dead! ( Niger Trigger, reef
beauty, butterflyfish, cardinal, yellow tang) I forgot to mention that my tank
is a combo reef/fish 50 gallon. My soft coals and one Anemone were not affected
nor were the cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs and turbo-snails. I immediately
suspected the death of the sea slug and sure enough read that these slugs secret
a defensive toxin.
<Yes... but not so much a secret to the fishes they're found with... just in the
confines of an aquarium...>
I performed a 50% water change and replaced all my filters. I let the tank
"stand" for 3 weeks then introduced one blenny to the tank. Within 36 hours it
died! It's skin was sloughing off and fins looked as if they were dissolving.
<Yep>
My question is; should I completely start over with new live sand and live
rock??? ( the rock is still very purple in color) or let the tank recycle for a
longer period of time???? HELP!
Great sight,
Jim
<Mmm, if it were me, mine I'd try adding a good quantity, quality of activated
carbon in your filter flow path, let another few weeks go by and try some other
"test fishes". Bob Fenner>
Sudden Fish Loss, BGA wipe-out 7/18/05
Yesterday I experienced sudden fish loss which freaked me out. My system has
been up and running for 3 years with no major problems.
46 Gallon
About 70 pounds live rock
5-6 inch fine sand bed
AquaC HOT skimmer
Magnum 350 canister (for Carbon and Mech. filt.)
A couple power heads
Medusa Temp controller (hooked to small fan and heater)
Ground probe
Live stock:
Regal Tang (I know, too small a tank but didn't do my homework when I first
bought him)
2 Ocellaris Clowns
1 Chromis
Coral:
Bubble, Candy Cane
Yellow polyps, and a few mushrooms.
4 Turbo Snails
Have not done any tests in a while, SG 1.026
I am currently going through a Cyano out break and got lazy the past week or
so and let it build
up on the glass. I used the Magnet and cleaned off most of it from the
glass, of course there was a ton of it
floating around the tank so I reached my hand in and took the screen off the
canister filter intake so it doesn't get
clogged and it can suck up the floating blue-green algae. About a half hour
later I glanced at the tank and noticed
the Chromis was dead and the other 3 fish were gasping like crazy. The
clownfish were on the bottom gasping
and having trouble staying upright, the tang was gasping also but seemed to
be handling a bit better (I guess because he
is a lot bigger), The starfish then ate the dead Chromis. I had no reserve
saltwater so I hurried and mixed a batch of fresh
saltwater, (obviously you are supposed to let it mix for a couple days in
normal situations) the salinity was a bit off cause it was the
last of it (about 1.023), I put the worst of the clownfish in there but he
didn't last long and died. I then put a fresh batch of Carbon in the
canister filter
<Which I hope/trust you rinsed of the Cyano>
and let the remaining 2 fish stay in the tank.
<No... move them from the toxified water>
The 2nd small clownfish died
overnight I think. I believe the starfish ate him too because the central
disk was a big bulge this
morning . The Regal Tang seems kind of OK, it looks pretty lethargic but I
put a few flakes in this morning and it did eat. Also he is not gasping
like crazy anymore.
The coral and polyps seem to be ok, they extended there tentacles last night
to go into feeding mode. The starfish is fine I assume, especially since it
ate 2 fish.
I did do an ammonia test this morning and results showed no ammonia (old
Salifert test kit though not sure how accurate it is anymore). So could have
the tons of Cyano
floating around have caused the sudden fish loss?
<Oh yes>
I don't think it was me
putting my arm in the water, I don't recall handling any chemicals or anything
that would be
toxic. I am at a total loss here. There is also a couple Caulerpa (I believe)
stalks growing not sure if that could be hazardous in any way. I do have a
small toadstool mushroom
that is being taken over by blue green algae, could it have released some
kind of poison?
<Possibly>
The system has been running just fine for 3 years and all of
a sudden this happens and
I have no idea why. Its kind of discouraging, I wanted to replace with a
bigger tank at some point
<Much more forgiving...>
but am now re-thinking that idea. So any ideas?
Thanks.
Angelo
<The BGA is likely the primary culprit here... need to be diligent about keeping
it steadily kept down... A larger system, with a sump/refugium will be much more
stable, easier to maintain. Bob Fenner>
Cowfish Poisoned Tank
Hi Bob,
<George>
I have a 120 gallon tank I converted to salt water about 4 months ago and
went through the cycle and all my fish were doing fine. About every other
day I checked the salinity, nitrite, nitrate, pH and ammonia and they are
always perfect. I had 2 Yellow Tangs and A Powder Blue Tang
<Not easily kept>
and a few
Damsels and about 2 weeks ago I purchased a cowfish. The aquarium store I
purchased it at didn't tell me the fish was poisonous and if they had, I
wouldn't have bought it.
<This is mentioned several times, places on our site:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishes.htm>
It seemed to be OK for a day or two and then it
kinda started just floating around in the tank, swimming a little every now
and then. I told the pet store I purchased it at and they said that it was
just stressed because it was in a new tank and that it would be OK in a few
days. I believed him and then the next afternoon when I came home from work
it was hung behind one of the decorations I have in my tank and it was dead.
I carried it back to them and they gave me a different fish to replace it.
When I got back home about 3 of my other fish were dead and the others were
swimming around with hardly no life at all. Then, the next afternoon they
all were dead. I found out that if the cowfish becomes stressed before it
dies it releases a poison that will kill everything in the tank and it did.
I went to a "Barnes @ Noble" book store and after looking through all their
Aquarium Fish books and reading about the cowfish they all said that it was
poisonous and it will release a poison if it becomes stressed and it will
die instantly and poison the entire tank, and it did. Over the past two
weeks since this happened I have changed about 50% of the water 3 times and
one time I changed about 75% and each time I did a test on the water and it
was all perfect.
<I would change ALL the water... in fact, if this were an account, I would drain
it all, re-fill it with fresh and lightly bleach (acid) wash all... yes, killing
all biota, oxidizing the ostracitoxin>
I have also replaced the carbon in my two filters every
other day as I was advised by the aquarium store. I have added a few
damsels to it and they have all died after being in the tank after about 2
days. Every time they died I purchased 3 more damsels and about 2 days later
they died. They all seemed to be doing well and then the next morning when
I turned the lights on they were all dead. I am trying everything I can
think of. I would appreciate any suggestions you have before I recycle my
tank.
George
<Sorry to hear of the losses here. Please refer to WetWebMedia.com re how to
thoroughly clean your system... and start over from "square one". Bob Fenner>
Sea apples -Nooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - 11/24/03
Hello I believe I have a Australian Sea Apple, and the other day it was
secreting yellow little balls, possibly eggs. <Possible...either way....not
good!!!> But the next day 2 of my fish died. <Craaaaaap. Sorry
to hear about that. Yes, well, this is why these are not good in mixed aquaria.
Either dedicated tanks or not at all my friend.> I was curious if
it was from eating those balls. <Absolutely, but just being in the tank with
this noxious material would be enough to kill everything in the tank! Doesn't
even take eating it. Do read about this on our site.> I did a 90% water
change <More frequent water changes with about 30-50% daily might help. 90%
percent was probably necessary though. Do read up before purchasing any
inhabitant you are to take into your charge. Good luck ~Paul>
- Sudden Fish Losses -
Bob, <Actually, JasonC here this morning...>
I must say, your writings have been a Bible for my husband and I when it comes
to our 185 gallon reef tank.
I wanted to ask you a question as we value your opinion. Over the
last 3 weeks we've lost a massive amount of fish. Our water
conditions are Perfect! We do our water changes, test the chemicals
etc... our tank is well established and has been up and running for about 6
months. We noticed some symptoms of what we believed to be Ich. The
fish had white patches (some had small white spots), were flicking themselves on
rocks (scratching), BUGGING our cleaner shrimp way more than normal and they
would completely lose their appetite. Once we noticed the symptoms,
we would remove the fish from the tank and freshwater dip them. We
would also put them in our quarantine tank (a 55 gallon) with medication if
necessary. We were using the Mardel-Two. A few died in the
medicine tank, I am assuming because of the stress of moving them (two tangs and
a blue Angel). Slowly though, all of our fish died: Emperor
Angel, Coral Beauty, 2 Clown Fish, 2 Zebra Damsels, a Hippo Tang, a Brown Tang,
a Black Velvet Angel, a Lemon Peel Angel (of which we still have not found the
bodies of the Black Velvet or the Lemon Peel). The only survivors
were 3 Blue Damsels.
Now though, we are getting VERY worried as it is happening really fast with the
NEW fish we just got! I know that when you move fish from your
quarantine tank to the "Final" tank that it will cause stress and
could cause fish to possibly die (although we are extremely careful). <Uhh...
I don't agree with that. The fish have already been through their original
capture and transport which is very stressful. Transfer from quarantine to the
main tank might be stressful but not nearly as much as some other things - like
overcrowding.> But, we are seeing fish healthy, happy, eating, not
scratching.... dying within a few hours! Just tonight, I fed the fish
and our Blue Spotted Angel, came out and ate. Just 15 min.s. ago, I
saw him being pushed around the tank in the current, then falling to the bottom,
barely breathing. I immediately removed him, put him in a 5 gallon
bucket with an air pump and covered the bucket with a clothe to make sure he
wasn't disturbed by any light. When I put him in, he flipped out,
tried jumping out of the bucket a couple of times (scared the death out of me
because I don't know where the "spurt" of energy came from). He died a
few minutes later. <It sounds to me like some contaminant has gotten into
your tank - perhaps a household cleaner... does anyone in your house smoke cigarettes?
Or as another example of cross contamination, if you put flea and tick
medication on your dog, then scratch/pet the dog and then place your hands in
the tank... bad news. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/toxictk.htm
>
We have a Tube anemone that yesterday was trying to eat a Yellow Striped Maroon
Clown. The fish was dead but he had about 1/2 of him in his tube. This
worried us because, we don't know if the Tube Anemone maybe stinging our fish
and maybe this is a cause of the deaths. We have other corals. We
have a Frogspawn (2 of them), a Torch, an Elegance, Xenia and a yellow polyp. They
are all doing great, fully expanding etc.... <As backwards as it might seem,
many invertebrates are actually more tolerant to environmental pollution than
are fish - mostly because they can't move, they've developed a tolerance,
whereas fish who can usually 'run away' in this circumstance cannot, so... you
need to look for things around your house that may have got this problem
started.>
Again, we just don't know what is going on or what we should do! <I'd start
by running activated carbon inline with your filter system.> Have you ever
heard of a Tube Anemone doing something like this? <Sure.> Or do you think
our tank is diseased? Either way, what would you suggest doing?
<Some large water changes along with careful investigations as to the source
of the problem. Do you have a protein skimmer on this tank? Has the skimmate
changed or is there more 'stuff' coming out of it?>
Thank you so much for your time. We have consulted all of our books
etc... and we have tried the freshwater baths, the medicines, we practice
quarantine our new fish etc.... and we just have no idea what is going on or
what to do. I am so worried about the fish that we have in there now.
Again, thank you for your time,
Danielle
<Cheers, J -- >
- Sudden Fish Losses, Follow-up -
Thank you very much for your response! <My pleasure.> Our skimmer
isn't producing more than they normal amount of waste but, obviously that
doesn't mean that it is not contaminated. We are going to do our
water changes and put some fresh carbon etc... to clean this things up. We
have the Protein Skimmer and an External Filter. We are going to do
the water change in just an hour or so. Do you think that the fish we have in
there now should be removed and placed into our other tank? <I'd actually
hold off... as long as they aren't expensive fish, I'd leave them in there for
the canary in the coal mine factor, if you know what I mean.>
Also, with the Tube Anemone, fish obviously swim by him and I am assuming that
maybe that's when they are getting stung. <Most likely at night, when they
can't see the anemone so well... you would think they would know better.> Can
you tell me what the signs/symptoms are when a fish gets stung by a Tube
Anemone? <Outright death... have not ever seen a fish survive this.>
Again, thank you so much for your help!
<Cheers, J -- >
|
Plankton outbreak
Hi Bob,
I have a 75 gallon reef, I just have a problem I hope you can help
with. A week and a half ago, a pet store gave me a sample of DT's
Phytoplankton to try, the dosage on the bottle is 2 cups per 100
gallons, they gave me a cup, I put it in my tank and it turned green
and boy do I mean green, now I can't get it out it keeps blooming. If I
turn out the lights it get a little better, but I can't leave the lights
out for long as I am afraid it will kill my corals ( which are doing
fine). I have VHO lighting, filtration is a Fluval 300, 3 power heads,
a skimmer, and a hang on the back filter loaded with carbon ( which was
suggested that I do to pull it out ( no luck) Now it is suggested that
I put on a U.V sterilizer, but won't that take out all the elements that
I have put in?
Can you help? JoAnn
>>
Think so... I would install a pad of PolyFilter at this point... that will slowly remove some of the necessary nutrients for the phytoplankton, and your system will clear in a couple of weeks. The UV would work as well, but the sudden release of materials bound up in the algae will cause other problems for you...
Bob FennerPlankton outbreak
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the reply, My corals are starting to suffer from insufficient light
if it takes a couple of weeks, do I risk losing my corals? This stuff is thick I
think the light can't get through.
JoAnn
>>
Hmm, in that case, do ask the store if they'll lend you a "diatom filter" (Vortex Innerspace Products)... have them charge it with media, and show you how to set it up and run it... or if they have a "skid unit" with a few micron mesh cartridge system that they can run for an hour or two... Either of these will filter out most of the single cells for now...
Otherwise, the low light condition should not kill your corals.
Bob Fenner
|
Question "help", shipping water?
My question is: I set up my 55 gallon tank about 10 weeks ago and have added about 70 lbs total of live
rock. I currently have a leather coral, and 3 sea anemones. When I fist started my tank I added about 7
damsels, and since have taken them back to the pet store and added different fish clowns,
Banggai
Cardinals). After several days of adding the new fish they died. I went to the
pet store and they
recommended I treat the tank with Tetracycline to see if that would help. I treated the tank, did a 50%
water change. and after a week I added 2 Percula Clowns and they died 3 days later. I have checked the
ammonia and nitrates, they are both 0. Some of the fish, before dying, hover at the bottom and look as if
they are gasping for air. Others look liked their skin was being peeled off a little at a time (No white
dots, but looks like they have been scraping themselves on the rocks. I added an airstone to the
tank before they died thinking maybe they did not have enough oxygen, but they still died. Currently, I
have
a 50/50 bulb, an actinic bulb, a protein skimmer, a power head, and an Emperor 400 to filter the water.
Do you have any suggestions as to why the fish continue to die, and maybe any suggestions as to what
I can do? I am not sure what to try next to see what is going on.
Thank you very much.
>>
Thank you for writing... Did you happen to pour any of the shipping water into your tank? This situation sounds like one or more of your anemones has "shed" enough (cnidocytic) material in the water to render the observations you're relating... There are a few things I would do at this point. If you can mix up enough synthetic seawater, a massive (80% or so) water change. And the addition of a Polyfilter pad to your filter flow path... and take all your filter material out and thoroughly wash it in hot, freshwater... thoroughly wipe down the inside aquarium panels (glass or acrylic) then wait a good month, and "try" another "tester" damsel...
Bob Fenner
Tank death
Hey there,
It's me again. Remember the Tang. He past away the day I talked to you
about feeding him. Yesterday I lost the rest of the fish in the Tank. No
Illness signs at all. My main tank and the secondary tank in unaffected with
this problem. I check the water and everything is fine, except the ammonia way
in the low-mid level range. Could it be reef disease??? If so what can I do to
clean the tank???
<Hmm, disconcerting... and I don't remember much about my emails... many going through every day... But anomalous losses are a source of concern/worry to me... Generally attributable to a "hobbyist" poisoning input... like errant metal contamination, spray cleaners in the room, mis-use of "additives.... or an internal job of algae, sea cucumbers... some combination of interactions... But, other than idle speculation, what can be done at this point? Typically, near total break downs to massive water changes and use of chemical filtrants (carbon, resins), followed by slow addition of "test" organisms to re-stocking...>
The last question, in my main tank I have 5 kinds of mushrooms. All died
except the hairy Tongo. What could cause their deaths. When I notice a signs
of coral problem I change 5 gallons of water from the tank with 2 day old RO sea
water. I also lost the green star polyps also. My collection of Xenia is doing
fine. I will be doing a partial water change again tonight. I'm also running
carbon to help filter out poisons that may be present. Any Suggestions?? Water
quality is fine except Ammonia slightly present in the water. Only have a
Mandarin goby and a Clark Basslet.
<Oh, here come the clues... yes to the biological chemical warfare possibility
alluded to above... The winner(s) are usually the better part of the cause(s) of these sorts of wipe-outs.... And sort of like re-doing your computer's main drive... start with these "winners" and add more software/livestock that are compatible with them... You shouldn' t have any ammonia... this is a residual of the die/kill off and ongoing skirmishes... Wait till it's all gone, develop a stringently regular water changing, chemical filtrant use program (monthly)... and a careful re-stocking plan>
Thanks, Anthony
Thermal Shock... downward
Hi, I'm working to the Quebec aquarium, and one of my lionfish got a thermal shock last week. The temperature
normally at 25 degree Celsius, fell to 18, and the fish turn over. Is not dead, but he look bad on his back. He don't eat anymore. Can you help me to help the
beautiful fish?
Thank you for your help!!!
Geneviève Poulin
>>
With luck this specimen will recover... even if it doesn't eat for a few weeks (not a typo). Try to keep its environment stable, and be patient.... I know of worse cases that have turned out okay.
Bob Fenner
A real mess... thermal stress plus?
Dear Bob,
I'm mailing you from Adelaide, Australia with a nasty dilemma.
I have a 5ft marine tank containing 12 fish from damsels to clowns to a golden headed sleeper, approximately 20kg live rock, an anemone and a painted crayfish. I've noticed over the last few weeks large white/light brown growths on some of the fishes faces. My local fish shop suggested it was white spot and so I've been using MYAZIN once a day, which is supposed to be OK for the anemone and
Cray. I've also increased the temperature to ~29degrees C and the salinity is low. However, the fish show no change. I've lost a tang and bicolour angle, both I found on their sides gasping. Some of the other fish are now doing
a lot of scratching. I've recently moved (three weeks ago) and in the process managed to crack the tank which has made my trickle filter inoperable, so I've been relying on an undergravel filter and an internal powerhead with some filter media attached.
Help?
Patrick Sim
>>
Yikes, a whole lot going on here! Can you characterize these markings on your fishes faces? I suspect this is really not a parasitic infestation at all, but likely a stress reaction from... the high temperature... and??? What I would do is stop with the treatments (likely related to your losses... and the scratching behavior) and look into ways to lower the temperature of the system, get that crack fixed... Maybe leaving the lights off by day... perhaps rigging up a fan to blow air across the top during the day... maybe even floating a frozen plastic jug of water in the system on the hottest of days...
But, let's get the remaining life into another system so you can effect the repair (maybe just siliconing a bit of thin acrylic sheet over the cracked area...) and the wet-dry sump up and going.
Bob Fenner
Sick Tank, Animals, or both?
I have a 55 gallon tank with about 20lbs of live rock in it. The tank is two weeks old, but
I 've had the live rock for a week. Problems arose as I noticed that two of my four striped damsels were suffering from scale loss and fin decay
(I noticed little white particles on their fins). To tell you the honest truth I
really could care less about the damsels. I moved them to a 15 gal tank along with my ten hermit crabs (after freshwater bath).
I pretty much narrowed the cause down to a bacterial infection of c. columnaris, streptococcus, or
Vibrio. I ordered some Ampicillin and will begin treatment when I get it. my question is
(finally) suppose that my diagnosis is correct and I cure my fish. the 15 gal tank is clean of infection but what about the 55 gal tank?
there's nothing but live rock in there and I plan on adding medication to the tank anyways to prevent a second infection. will the medication kill the 'good' bacteria in there?
<Probably the new tank was the real cause... and I would just let the 55 "go fallow" for a month... and not worry otherwise>
what about the live rock, will it 'buffer' some of the 'bad' bacteria and protect it from medication (absorbed into the pores)? your help would be nice but its not an emergency. by the way your site rocks,
I appreciate your unbiased opinions on all subjects.
<No worries my friend. Go ahead with your livestocking plan in about a month. Bob Fenner>
Depressing start, please help.
Hello,
I recently bought a 92 gallon corner tank
with a bio filter, protein skimmer, and canister filter.
It was stocked with 88 lbs of live rock, and three days
later I added 6 fish to begin the cycle.
3 green Chromis and 3 of the NOT TRUE Percula clowns.
<Yikes... should have waited...>
3 days after that a clown has just died, and for about 2
hours went all around the tank upside down and banging
into things. He seemed to be fine the first couple days,
although none of the clowns like to come out of hiding, even
when feeding.
The green Chromis are quite energetic though.
<Stress, and all induced...>
Please let me know if that death was "normal" or have I selected
incompatible specimens. I hope to avoid any ignorant mistakes
in the future.
<Very normal... Patience my new friend...>
PS: Live rock seems to have so many problems... anemones, worms, etc
Why don't people start out with sterile rock and build it up without the pests?
<Good idea... we have a few thousand pounds that we do just this for... and "cycle it out" for new about every six months...>
THANKS, Michael
<Do read over the set-up sections posted on the www.wetwebmedia.com site and give your system a month or two holiday from stocking for now. Bob Fenner>
Carnivores won't eat 8/5/05
Hello gang,
I've a 125 gal marine tank, with 50-70lbs of live
rock, currently housing, amongst others, a Dendrochirus zebra, and a Diodon
holocanthus. Not
quite 2 weeks ago, the lion stopped eating, and the porcupine followed 3 days
ago.
<Bad sign...>
Both had previously fed with considerable gusto on krill, ghost shrimp,
pellets, and the odd bit of chopped table shrimp.
<Bad diet...>
Both fish attempt to eat, but either turn away as soon as they reach the food,
or spit it out as soon as they
get it in their mouths. None of the other fish (lunar wrasse, 2 Fiji blue
devils, 1 domino damsel, powder
blue tang, Foxface lo, snowflake moray, ocellaris clown) exhibit this behavior,
and usually rush in to
take what the other two ignore. Also, the lion's gills seem to be a bit
puffy. All water chemistry
checks out ok, save a very high nitrate level I've been fighting with.
<Bingo... need to fix this>
I've tried other foods (silversides, Mysid shrimp, crab, and squid) but have
had no luck. Anything you could suggest would be very helpful.
Thank you,
Jacob
<Fix their environment Jacob. Read here please:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
And the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Goin' On A Hunger Strike - 08/11/2005
I have a 150 gallon marine tank. My dwarf lion (D. zebra) has not eaten in
a month (frozen krill).
<Disturbing....>
Have tried many ghost shrimp, crab, shrimp, etc. to no avail. My 8" snowflake
eel seemed to be having trouble eating also and recently died.
<A major concern....>
He did not seem thin and actually seemed swollen.
<An excellent clue....>
My 5" porcupine puffer quit eating for 3 days but now is eating fine. frozen
krill). My powder blue tang and other herbivores seem to be unaffected. No
change in appetite or behavior. The lion appears to try to suck in the food but
cannot. My water quality seems good.
<Seeming good is not enough info.... Be certain ammonia and nitrite are ZERO,
pH 8.3, salinity 1.021-1.024....>
But my nitrates are high.
<Also of concern. How high? Above 20ppm can be an issue.>
I have done additional water changes (more than normal), I run a UV sterilizer,
protein skimmer and do regular filter changes.
<Try to find the source of your nitrates.... I would be concerned that the tank
may be overstocked if you cannot keep nitrate down with reasonable water
changes.>
No fish in the tank have bad fins, color or any abnormalities. And there have
been no recent illnesses or fish additions. I would appreciate any suggestions.
<My first guess is purely environmental issues. Get more water changes done,
pronto, if anything is mildly amiss there. Try feeding foods soaked in garlic
extract to stimulate an appetite. If still unsuccessful, you might want to
consider the possibility of internal parasites.... the swollen eel, after
having not eaten, may be an indicator, here. Are any of the fish excreting
long, clear-ish strands of poo? You might consider offering a food medicated
with Metronidazole or Praziquantel, or treat these fish in a quarantine tank
with either of those in the water.>
Thanks.
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
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