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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases 3
Related Articles: Marine Parasitic Disease,
Parasitic Worms, Roundworms,
Related FAQs: Fish Worm Diseases 1,
Marine Worm Parasites 2, & FAQs on Marine Worm Parasites:
Diagnosis/Symptomology,
Etiology/Prevention, Cures That
Don't Work, Cures That Do Work,
Products/Manufacturers...
Flukes/Trematodes,
Tapeworms/Cestodes,
Leeches/Hirudineans, "Other" Worms
and Worm-Like Parasites...
Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges...
De-wormers (Piperazine, Praziquantel...) &
FAQs, Yellow Tang Disease,
Parasitic Disease 2, Parasitic Disease
3, Parasitic Marine Tanks,
Parasitic Reef Tanks,
Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Marine Velvet
Disease Biological Cleaners,
Treating Parasitic Disease,
Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease,
Roundworms, Yellow Tangs,
Tang Health/Disease, | 
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Re: fish disease?
I recently treated the tank with Prazipro, this time making sure I
followed the instructions to the tee. The Tomini tang is disease free
and so are the clowns but the male trigger has numerous reoccurring
spots on him.
<So... these marks not likely "worms">
The spots have been behaving the same as when the tank was not treated;
they are appearing as specs then turning to smears and then disappearing
and becoming new specs. The female trigger is looking a little better
but she still has a few specs, but nothing like the male. I can tell the
disease is not spreading because the rest of the fish are free of any
blemishes.
Also, the triggers are behaving perfectly normal. The owner of the shop,
in which I do business with, has suggested dipping the triggers in fresh
water to get rid of the disease since it is only affecting them, and not
attacking the other fish. He recommended that I shoot you another e-mail
to gain your input on this method of treating the triggers.
Thank you,
Chris
<Such dips/baths can be efficacious. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
and the linked files above. B>
re: fish disease?
I did get the response. Thank you for your input. My last e-mail was a
little like the first one, but instead I was wondering what you thought
about dipping the triggers since they are the only ones in the tank
being
attacked by the disease.
Chris
<... IF you have some other system to move them to after...>
White Face Tang Parasites,
flatworm-city 8/12/09
Greetings:
<Salud>
I acquired a White Face Tang about a week ago. It is in a quarantine
tank and is doing well, eating PE Mysis and Nori. A couple of days ago I
noticed a string shaped white parasite near one of its eyes. This
parasite is about 1/16 of an inch long with a diameter of about 1/3 that
amount.
Today there are several more in the same area. Any ideas?
<Look for the two little eyes...>
It does not look like crypto or Oodinium nor does it seem to
bother the fish. No scratching.
<Mmm, there have been a "rash" of flatworm parasites amongst this and
other related species imported in recent months... A friend/tenant/LFS
owner whom I traveled with last week to LA told me of travails with this
worm... Can be sort of easily dislodged via simple/r FW dips (read here
re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm and the linked files above) or the
use of an anthelminthic... http://wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisflukef.htm>
I'm about to go with a freshwater dip followed by copper unless you
advise against it.
Thanks,
Mark
<Not copper... Read, understand, then act. Bob Fenner>
Re: White Face Tang Parasites
Hello Bob and or Crew:
Thanks for the advice against the use of copper on what appear to have
been some sort of flatworm or fluke. I mistakenly assumed that copper
would eliminate any invertebrate
<Mmm, it will; but enough will eliminate all vertebrates!>
when in fact there are better medications for these parasites. I
administered a freshwater dip followed by Prazi-Pro for 5 days. The
parasites were eliminated.
<Ahh, good>
Now at three weeks in quarantine there appears to be another problem.
The respiration rate of the tang seems to be elevated.
<May be simple stress here. I'd move this fish to the main display>
It eats PE Mysis and whatever it can find growing in the tank but is no
longer interested in dried algae of any kind. Could this be indicative
of stress due to captivity in a small tank or is there another parasite
on the gills choking off oxygen?
<Much more likely the former>
The qt tank is 10 gallons, small for a 3"-4" fish and I plan on going to
a 20 gal. Should I do this now or should I assume there is a parasite at
work here and begin treatment with copper? There is no external
manifestation of ich.
Thanks again,
Mark.
<I would "do this now". BobF>
ID - Please Can you tell me what is hanging from my purple
tangs rear end?? It's certainly not the usual muck. Thank you,
Julie. <Mmm, appears to be a good-sized mass of worms... likely
Nematodes... though it might be Acanthocephalans... I would be
treating this fish/system with a vermifuge... Likely Levamisole...
please see WWM re such. Bob Fenner> | 
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Nematode treatment, not Cu 11/4/07 Dear Crew,
<Mark> My yellow tang appeared to have "small strings" coming from
its vent. I merely observed for 3 weeks, but the fish started to hide
excessively and become lethargic. Water tests showed good water quality:
pH=8.1 in a.m. - 8.4 in p.m. Hardness=9dGH Ammonia=0 Nitrite=0
Nitrate<5ppm Phosphate<.5ppm So I captured the tang and put him in
a quarantine tank and treated with .50ppm ionic copper. <Mmmm, I
would not have done this> I know tangs don't always do well with
copper, but I like using it because I can test how much is present vs. "
the dumping and hoping you added enough/not too much" method associated
with most other treatments. <Good point> I did not try a
freshwater dip because I have had poor luck/skill with its use . Anyway,
my yellow tang seems to be responding well to the treatment so far (2
days). So how long should the tang be treated? And how long should the
display tank (90 gallon reef) remain fallow? Thanks, Mark <If
you had a microscope... I would cease the copper exposure and try an
anthelminthic here instead... in both the treatment and main tank...
Prazi-.... see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Coppering White Face Tang.( Acanthurus japonicus). Crypt... And
flukes... 10/23/07 Last Monday I purchased what
appeared to be a healthy, eating and active white face tang from my
LFS. After bringing him home, giving a FW dip with Methylene blue,
acclimating and placing in my QT. I noticed a small thread like
thing hanging from his fin. I believe this was an anchor worm.
<Mmm> Over the next four days I did 2 more FW dips (I always use
Methylene blue). The worm never detached. But I did notice a few
small critters in the rinse container afterwards. I've got pics of
these and will attach them for you. I was able to view them through
my handy dandy kiddy CSI lab microscope at 200 mag. <Neat!>
Even able to get a pic through the microscope with my wife's digital
camera on macro setting. Kinda neat to see. I'll post it also. But
these aren't really the subject of my question, as Friday afternoon
I noticed the spots indicative of ick. I began coppering Saturday
morning. Using Cupramine. I am now up to the recommended .50 ppm
dosage and want to be sure I do this delicate fish right. Is this
what dosage you would suggest for this fish with this product?
<For this product, how the active ingredient is measured, this is
about right> Or do I need to lower it down? I noticed somewhere
here you recommended a lower dosage? But with Cupramine? The
directions say .50. <Keep it near this... measure at least
daily> I brought that up over 48 hours as directed. Also I though
I saw where you recommended not using continuous copper on this
fish. <Yes... there are other/better medicants to use on/with
Acanthuroids> Does that mean only with baths? <Another viable
approach, yes> Or can I continue with the 14 day treatment as
indicated? <You can... will be debilitating> I would like to
actually remove the fish as soon as possible from the QT to the DT.
Not in a rush here, but trying to do the right thing and limit
exposure. As well as guaranteeing an Ick free DT. I do not want to
go down that road again! I'll do whatever it takes to guarantee my
125 and 65 stays ick free. But If I treated the powder brown for 7
days and then removed him and placed it in the 125. Would that cover
my bases here. <I would at least add a pH adjusted FW and
Formalin dip/bath twixt the QT/TT and DT here> It seems to me I
would be killing any ick that are free swimming (I forget the term).
Trying to attach now. So in 7 days then all ick would have dropped
off and not allowed to attach again. Thereby assuring a properly
timed "transfer". Of course I'll continue the treatment of the QT
for the duration to guarantee its safe for the next addition. If
this looks like a viable option, I would like to use it. But wont
risk the infestation of the 125. If its OK to treat it for the 14
days and this isn't a viable option, I'll continue this coarse.
<course> Thank You so very much for your help. You site has been
an incredible contribution to my success in this hobby. Charlie
Bunch <In the meanwhile I'd read re the causative organism, it's
treatment... Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm and
the many linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
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