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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases 3

Related Articles: Marine Parasitic Disease, Parasitic Worms, Roundworms

Related FAQs: Fish Worm Diseases 1, Marine Worm Parasites 2, & FAQs on Marine Worm Parasites: Diagnosis/Symptomology, Etiology/Prevention, Cures That Don't Work, Cures That Do Work, Products/Manufacturers... Flukes/Trematodes, Tapeworms/Cestodes, Leeches/Hirudineans, "Other" Worms and Worm-Like Parasites... Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges... De-wormers (Piperazine, Praziquantel...) & FAQs, Yellow Tang Disease, Parasitic Disease 2, Parasitic Disease 3, Parasitic Marine Tanks, Parasitic Reef Tanks, Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich, Marine Velvet Disease Biological Cleaners, Treating Parasitic Disease, Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease, RoundwormsYellow Tangs, Tang Health/Disease

Re: fish disease?
I recently treated the tank with Prazipro, this time making sure I followed the instructions to the tee. The Tomini tang is disease free and so are the clowns but the male trigger has numerous reoccurring spots on him.
<So... these marks not likely "worms">
The spots have been behaving the same as when the tank was not treated; they are appearing as specs then turning to smears and then disappearing and becoming new specs. The female trigger is looking a little better but she still has a few specs, but nothing like the male. I can tell the disease is not spreading because the rest of the fish are free of any blemishes.
Also, the triggers are behaving perfectly normal. The owner of the shop, in which I do business with, has suggested dipping the triggers in fresh water to get rid of the disease since it is only affecting them, and not
attacking the other fish. He recommended that I shoot you another e-mail to gain your input on this method of treating the triggers.
Thank you,
Chris
<Such dips/baths can be efficacious. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
and the linked files above. B>
re: fish disease?
I did get the response. Thank you for your input. My last e-mail was a little like the first one, but instead I was wondering what you thought about dipping the triggers since they are the only ones in the tank being
attacked by the disease.
Chris
<... IF you have some other system to move them to after...>

White Face Tang Parasites, flatworm-city   8/12/09
Greetings:
<Salud>
I acquired a White Face Tang about a week ago. It is in a quarantine tank and is doing well, eating PE Mysis and Nori. A couple of days ago I noticed a string shaped white parasite near one of its eyes. This parasite is about 1/16 of an inch long with a diameter of about 1/3 that amount.
Today there are several more in the same area. Any ideas?
<Look for the two little eyes...>
It does not look like crypto or Oodinium nor does it seem to bother the fish. No scratching.
<Mmm, there have been a "rash" of flatworm parasites amongst this and other related species imported in recent months... A friend/tenant/LFS owner whom I traveled with last week to LA told me of travails with this worm... Can be sort of easily dislodged via simple/r FW dips (read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm and the linked files above) or the use of an anthelminthic... http://wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisflukef.htm>
I'm about to go with a freshwater dip followed by copper unless you advise against it.
Thanks,
Mark
<Not copper... Read, understand, then act. Bob Fenner>

Re: White Face Tang Parasites
Hello Bob and or Crew:
Thanks for the advice against the use of copper on what appear to have been some sort of flatworm or fluke. I mistakenly assumed that copper would eliminate any invertebrate
<Mmm, it will; but enough will eliminate all vertebrates!>
when in fact there are better medications for these parasites. I administered a freshwater dip followed by Prazi-Pro for 5 days. The parasites were eliminated.
<Ahh, good>
Now at three weeks in quarantine there appears to be another problem. The respiration rate of the tang seems to be elevated.
<May be simple stress here. I'd move this fish to the main display>
It eats PE Mysis and whatever it can find growing in the tank but is no longer interested in dried algae of any kind. Could this be indicative of stress due to captivity in a small tank or is there another parasite on the gills choking off oxygen?
<Much more likely the former>
The qt tank is 10 gallons, small for a 3"-4" fish and I plan on going to a 20 gal. Should I do this now or should I assume there is a parasite at work here and begin treatment with copper? There is no external manifestation of ich.
Thanks again,
Mark.
<I would "do this now". BobF>

ID - Please
Can you tell me what is hanging from my purple tangs rear end?? It's certainly not the usual muck. Thank you, Julie.
<Mmm, appears to be a good-sized mass of worms... likely Nematodes... though it might be Acanthocephalans... I would be treating this fish/system with a vermifuge... Likely Levamisole... please see WWM re such. Bob Fenner>

Nematode treatment, not Cu   11/4/07
Dear Crew,
<Mark>
My yellow tang appeared to have "small strings" coming from its vent. I merely observed for 3 weeks, but the fish started to hide excessively and become lethargic. Water tests showed good water quality:
pH=8.1 in a.m. - 8.4 in p.m.
Hardness=9dGH
Ammonia=0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate<5ppm
Phosphate<.5ppm
So I captured the tang and put him in a quarantine tank and treated with .50ppm ionic copper.
<Mmmm, I would not have done this>
I know tangs don't always do well with copper, but I like using it because I can test how much is present vs. " the dumping and hoping you added enough/not too much" method associated with most other treatments.
<Good point>
I did not try a freshwater dip because I have had poor luck/skill with its use . Anyway, my yellow tang seems to be responding well to the treatment so far (2 days). So how long should the tang be treated? And how long should the display tank (90 gallon reef) remain fallow?
Thanks,
Mark
<If you had a microscope... I would cease the copper exposure and try an anthelminthic here instead... in both the treatment and main tank... Prazi-.... see WWM re. Bob Fenner>

Coppering White Face Tang.( Acanthurus japonicus). Crypt... And flukes...   10/23/07
Last Monday I purchased what appeared to be a healthy, eating and active white face tang from my LFS. After bringing him home, giving a FW dip with Methylene blue, acclimating and placing in my QT. I noticed a small thread like thing hanging from his fin. I believe this was an anchor worm.
<Mmm>
Over the next four days I did 2 more FW dips (I always use Methylene blue). The worm never detached. But I did notice a few small critters in the rinse container afterwards. I've got pics of these and will attach them for you. I was able to view them through my handy dandy kiddy CSI lab microscope at 200 mag.
<Neat!>
Even able to get a pic through the microscope with my wife's digital camera on macro setting. Kinda neat to see. I'll post it also. But these aren't really the subject of my question, as Friday afternoon I noticed the spots indicative of ick. I began coppering Saturday morning. Using Cupramine. I am now up to the recommended .50 ppm dosage and want to be sure I do this delicate fish right. Is this what dosage you would suggest for this fish with this product?
<For this product, how the active ingredient is measured, this is about right>
Or do I need to lower it down? I noticed somewhere here you recommended a lower dosage? But with Cupramine? The directions say .50.
<Keep it near this... measure at least daily>
I brought that up over 48 hours as directed. Also I though I saw where you recommended not using continuous copper on this fish.
<Yes... there are other/better medicants to use on/with Acanthuroids>
Does that mean only with baths?
<Another viable approach, yes>
Or can I continue with the 14 day treatment as indicated?
<You can... will be debilitating>
I would like to actually remove the fish as soon as possible from the QT to the DT. Not in a rush here, but trying to do the right thing and limit exposure. As well as guaranteeing an Ick free DT. I do not want to go down that road again! I'll do whatever it takes to guarantee my 125 and 65 stays ick free. But If I treated the powder brown for 7 days and then removed him and placed it in the 125. Would that cover my bases here.
<I would at least add a pH adjusted FW and Formalin dip/bath twixt the QT/TT and DT here>
It seems to me I would be killing any ick that are free swimming (I forget the term). Trying to attach now. So in 7 days then all ick would have dropped off and not allowed to attach again. Thereby assuring a properly timed "transfer". Of course I'll continue the treatment of the QT for the duration to guarantee its safe for the next addition. If this looks like a viable option, I would like to use it. But wont risk the infestation of the 125. If its OK to treat it for the 14 days and this isn't a viable option, I'll continue this coarse.
<course>
Thank You so very much for your help. You site has been an incredible contribution to my success in this hobby.
Charlie Bunch
<In the meanwhile I'd read re the causative organism, it's treatment... Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm
and the many linked files above. Bob Fenner>






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