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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases: Medicine
Products/Manufacturers
Related Articles: Marine Parasitic Disease,
Parasitic Worms, Roundworms,
Related FAQs: Fish Worm Diseases 1,
Marine Worm Parasites 2, Marine Worm
Parasites 3, & FAQs on Marine Worm Parasites:
Diagnosis/Symptomology,
Etiology/Prevention, Cures That
Don't Work, Cures That Do Work,
Flukes/Trematodes,
Tapeworms/Cestodes,
Leeches/Hirudineans, "Other" Worms
and Worm-Like Parasites...
Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges...
De-wormers (Piperazine, Praziquantel...) &
FAQs, Yellow Tang Disease,
Parasitic Disease 2, Parasitic Disease
3, Parasitic Marine Tanks,
Parasitic Reef Tanks,
Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Marine Velvet
Disease Biological Cleaners,
Treating Parasitic Disease,
Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease,
Roundworms, Yellow Tangs,
Tang Health/Disease, |
Praziquantel (Droncit), incl. PraziPro,
Fenbendazole
For External: Some
commercial fish prep.s that contain organophosphates (Clout,
Med-Aqua, Fluke-Tabs...)
Formalin is a biocide... kills all life. READ re its CAREFUL use on
WWM |
Fluke Problem
Hello crew,
I have two tanks in which a flukes (capsalid monogenean)
were introduced. The specific type is Benedenia sp. I have found FW
dips or clout to be very effective on these, however, since these 2
tanks are display aquariums I would rather not treat them with clout.
<Agreed, only in extreme cases do I consider ever adding any sort of
medications to a display aquariums.>
Do you know how long an aquarium
would need to remain fallow to prevent reinfestation once fish are
reintroduced?
<Most parasites can't live longer than 4 weeks without
having a host. So, if you left the tank fallow for minimum of 4, but
preferable 6 then it should allow the pest to run through their cycle.>
Thank you, Richard
<Hope that answers the question. -Magnus>
Butterfly with gill flukes?
My double saddle butterfly has
been breathing rapidly for a week now. It's not ich or velvet as I'm
familiar with these diseases, and all of my fish have been QT'd for
a month before introduction to the main tank. The bf isn't
scratching, there are no spots on him, just the heavy breathing. I'm
pretty sure he has gill flukes...
<Stop! Where would these
trematodes have "come from?">
...so I've been administering 50
min formalin baths (2 teaspoons Kordon's formalin/gallon) everyday
for the past 3 days. Is this a sufficient treatment?
<Possibly...
there are more efficacious "de-worming" medicines... as you will
see:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisfaqs.htm>
I've read that
it's better to treat with formalin as a bath rather than constant
exposure in a qt tank.
<Yes... please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/formalinart.htm>
So far, the
butterfly is still eating well, not hiding, but still has the rapid
breathing. I've also noticed that he has thread-like poops. Could he
have internal parasites as well?
<Yes... but very much more
likely this is just symptomatic of the toxic formalin exposure>
All other fish are fine, although I noticed a long stringy poop
coming from the coral beauty (I've never seen her poop like this).
Are internal parasites contagious? I've attached a photo of the
coral beauty poop.
Ammonia, ni trite, nitrate, 0
Salinity
1.024
pH 8.2
79º
Thanks,
Angela
<Angela, I would
suspend the formalin treatments, look into Praziquantel... what you
are doing is too toxic to continue, not likely helpful... the fish
do not have monogenetic trematodes... unless you've observed these
under a microscope I strongly suspect there is not a pathogen
involved here. Bob Fenner> Re: butterfly with gill flukes?
Ok thanks for the reply Bob. I actually went and bought Prazi-pro
yesterday and administered an hour long bath as directed. I plan to
do another bath 3 days from now. Are the baths ok or should I just
treat long term in a qt tank?
<I would take the latter route>
So far no breathing improvement.
<... sometimes these fishes do
"just" breathe hard... perhaps environmental influence/s... maybe
social... I would not panic re>
He's still eating well. As far as
the stringy poops, the BF has always had them (I never saw him poop
in QT, and was
suspicious of that. It's because the thread-like
poops are very hard to see) I figured he had gill flukes because of
the internal parasite signs...
<I do wish everyone had ready
access to a decent microscope (I have a neat, but cheapy QX3
Mattel/Intel unit... that's fabulous) to LOOK before using toxic
chemical treatments... as I assure you that orders of magnitude more
livestock is "bumped off" by well-meaning aquarists than dies from
actual pathogenic infection/infestation>
...but also I'm at a
loss as to what other pathogen would cause the rapid breathing (he
has no spots or other signs) -a
<As stated... there is almost
certainly not a pathogen present. BobF> |
What's in Fluke Tabs?
Hi Chuck! I bought the Fluke tabs. Do you
know what are the active ingredients? It's not written on the product.
Thanks! Dominique
<The active ingredients are Mebendazole and
Trichlorfon.-Chuck>
Praziquantel
Also Bob, I am wondering if you can help me.
We have some incident of trematodes in our system. These worm/fluke
is in the fish and when we fresh water dip the fish, the worm came
off from the fish. Some people I talk to say to treat with
Praziquantel or PraziPro from Hikari. Do you have any info as far
as treating the entire system with PraziPro (side effect, other
problems etc).
Thank you,
Fred
<Ah, yes. For trematodes,
treating their systems as well as fish livestock, 2 to 10 mg
Praziquantel/liter (or 7.6 mg/gallon)... the lower does for
Monogeneans will do it, the higher for digenes. There are also
methods (not applicable here) for injection and oral administration,
baths... Cheers, Bob Fenner> Re: Praziquantel
Thanks
Bob, what about PraziPro? Is it safe?
<Yes... is just
Praziquantel and a stabilizing agent:
http://www.uskoi.com/prazipro.htm>
I know it is a lot more
expensive but no need to dilute.
<Agreed>
I heard you need
to dilute Praziquantel with Vodka?
<Heeee! Can use this
solvent... or not>
Also, how can you tell the difference between
Monogeneans and digenes.
Thank you,
Fred
<Mmm, sorry for
the added confusion. I would not worry re the digenetic
trematodes... they can/will perish along with the rest or die out
quickly enough due to the lack of intermediate hosts (Di as in
two... two or more other life forms to pass through before getting
to their determinate host (your fishes)...), as opposed to Monogenes
that have a direct life cycle. Bob Fenner> |
Cryptocaryon not responding to copper
First of all thanks so
much for your excellent website and advice. I was unable to find an
answer to my particular question in your archives, I did try.
I
currently have a 5" Hippo Tang and 5" Blond Naso in quarantine- 20
Gal. bare bottom, fully cycled canister filter amm/0 trite/0 PH/8.1
Temp/80 Salt/1020 I recently purchased these fish and I am treating
for parasites with Cupramine. My problem is the Naso has several
cysts 12-15 "same ones" that have not dropped off after 7 days at
0.5mg/L confirmed by calculation and 2 different brands of copper
test kits checked daily. I have been keeping fish for over 20 years
and don't believe I have misdiagnosed what looks like a classic case
of parasites.
<Ahh, but what type?>
But anything is
possible. The spots appear a bit smaller than the common
Cryptocaryon and obviously stay attached much longer. The Hippo
looks clear and no new cysts on either fish since treatment started,
they are eating and acting well but I am concerned that I wont be
able to cover the life cycle of this particular parasite in the
treatment time if they are not releasing from the fish as tomonts to
be siphoned out or enter the free swimming stage. I did not
freshwater dip them because I don't have a pH meter and have had bad
experiences trying to get pH adjusted in the past. "chicken I guess"
I do however have Formalin and would prefer to bath the Naso in that
if you think it would be beneficial, or should I just wait it out.
Thanks in advance
Shaun
<Mmm, am thinking these spots may be
more subcutaneous... worms... not affected by copper in the water. I
would try an anthelminthic. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/vermifugefaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Cryptocaryon not responding to copper
Thank You Bob, I
think I will try the PraziPro I am assuming I should complete the
Cupramine treatment and remove it from QT prior to starting the
PraziPro correct?
Thanks
Shaun
<Actually, I'd abandon
the copper treatment... it's obviously not working... and it's
obvious to me that you know what you're doing here... have kept up
testing, physiological doses... more copper exposure will do no
good, likely harm. I'd go with the de-wormer by itself. Bob Fenner>
Re: Cryptocaryon not responding to copper
Bob, Not trying to
be a pain here just want to make sure we are on the same page. I'm
not sure I made myself clear. Sorry.
When I started the copper
treatment I definitely had a crypt outbreak and all cysts
immediately cleared except for the few persistent ones left on the
Naso so I believe I am battling parasites also. With that info do
think I should finish the copper treatment? and if so wait to start
the PraziPro
<I see... I would continue, finish the copper run
AND start the Praziquantel... they are miscible. Bob Fenner> |
Anthias with worms? Human influence opportunities... Important!
03/22/07
Hello again guys / gals. I notice my Ventralis Anthias
has clear / white feces and am guessing he must have intestinal
parasites.
<Ahh... so wonderful to be able to influence such young,
growing minds/awarenesses...>
I was considering different
medications to use and would appreciate your input on what would
work best for my situation. The medications I am looking into are:
Fenbendazole at 7.6 Mg per gallon
Metronidazole
Praziquantel
and Paracide D
Any suggestions would be wonderful, the fish has not
lost weight, however he is obviously losing nutrients somewhere.
Thank you so much,
Brian Crenshaw
<My REAL (why not?) advice is
for you instead to invest in a copy of Ed Noga's "Fish Disease,
Diagnosis & Treatment" (expensive, I know... and have chatted w/ him
re... Maybe get the fish store to buy a copy for your use as well as
theirs...) AND a QX-3...4...5? Microscope... and to LOOK here, way
before dumping such medicines on your livestock... Much knowledge,
discovery awaits you... which I'm sure (very) that you'll be sharing.
BobF>
Parasitic worms
I need some help! My Hawaiian Dragon Eel
stopped eating.
I notice that he has thin, tan worms all over
his body. The worms are about an inch in size. The part that
doesn’t hook into the eel ends in a point.
Please tell me what
I can do to treat this. I know eels are sensitive to many forms of
treatment. He is a full size eel. Thanks so much for any advice
you can give. Kelly
<Mmm, need to have a definitive
identification of these worms... to the phylum level. I suspect
they're flukes of some sort, and could be treated with an
organophosphate. I suggest a pH-adjusted freshwater dip (that will
likely result in a bunch "letting go" for microscopic exam.) at this
point. Be careful with netting the specimen and keep the dip tank
covered and heavily aerated during this procedure. The dip by itself
will not effect a cure... as the worms are likely of a type that
have direct development and will still be present in various stages
in the main tank when/if you return the eel. Bob Fenner> Re:
Parasitic worms
Hi Bob,
<Hi Kelly>
Thanks for your
response. I did do the freshwater dip. It took 18 minutes for the
leeches to let go. (not die, just let go). Yes, I did say
leeches. I took some of the specimens to an aquarium today. I was
told that they were leeches.
<Easy to see with some magnification
(and specimens!)>
Unfortunately, these leeches like to live in
the substrate. I had 200 pounds of sand and crushed coral in my
tank. Well, with some help, I actually removed all the substrate
and bought more live rock. The substrate is totally infected with
these leeches. Just looking at them makes my skin crawl. I am
treating the substrate with Clout in a separate container.
<This
should "do it">
There are no more of these leeches visible in the
tank. Although, he does have two of the leeches on him. Compared
to the hundred that were all over him yesterday, I consider this a
huge accomplishment. Once the eel settles down and does not appear
so stressed, I will try to pick off the two remaining leeches. This
has been a very long project, but is well worth the effort to save
this beautiful eel.
<Yes>
We have a Titan trigger fish with
the eel. She was sick in the past and had to be quarantined. We
now think she was being infected by the leeches as well. Since last
night when we gave the eel a freshwater dip, the Titan has been
extremely protective of the eel. She lies right beside him. If I
am working in the tank near to the eel, she goes completely
ballistic. I have to say a full size Titan trigger and full size
Hawaiian dragon eel are a nice match. Although, I would not add
anything else with them.
Take care Bob.
Kelly
<Thank you
for the progress report. Bob Fenner> |
Grab Bag of Parasites?
Please help with the following
questions...
<Sure thing! Scott F. here again today>
- When it
says 'will kill invertebrates' on copper medication, does that
include shrimp, snails and crabs?
<precisely>
- Is copper also
good for flukes?
<I prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...>
- What are ectoparasites? (Ich? Flukes? Velvet?)
<Consult the WWM
site for specific forms>
- One of the remedies to get rid of
parasites is to lower salinity to 15ppm. Will that also kill flukes
and velvet? How safe is this on corals, snails, crabs and shrimp?
<Hyposalinity treatment can work for some parasitic diseases...I'm
not a huge fan of it. It can be harmful to inverts>
- Will the
banded coral shrimp also 'eat' ich and velvet and flukes from fish?
Would this plus UV sterilizer be a good alternative to using
medications?
<The CBS will pick at some parasites...but it cannot
get them all. A UV sterilizer is good at possibly stopping some of
the parasites when they are free-swimming...I still use meds...>
- Finally, in one of my 20g tanks, I'd like to keep one Banded Coral
Shrimp and one Harlequin Shrimp. Will they be ok with each other?
Will they be ok with reefs?
<They should be fine with
corals...But there may be some aggression between the two...Be
prepared to move somebody>
As always, huge, huge thanks for your
help.
Luke
<A pleasure, Luke! That's why we're here! Regards,
Scott F>No Meds In A Display Tank!
> <Sure thing! Scott
F. here again today>
> - Is copper also good for flukes?
> <I
prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...>
I've heard that
Formalin is a big no-no in marine and reef tanks (hard on corals,
will kill bio filtration, will kill live rock).
No? Thank you,
Luke
<You are absolutely right Luke. Under no circumstances
would you ever dose this, or any other medication in a display
tank. Formalin should be administered only in a controlled
environment such as a "hospital tank." It is highly effective
against flukes, however. Follow manufacturer's instructions to the
letter when you use this stuff. Good luck! Scott F.>
Formalin Works-But What About The Display Tank? (Flukes)
Right, but flukes lay eggs that get deeply into the gravel sometimes
(making them so hard to cure). So even if one does treat the fish in
separate tank, you're still going to have flukes in the main tank,
no? Thank you.
<Well, the approach to many parasitic infestations
is to deprive them of their hosts...Thus, the oft-recommended
"fallow tank" technique is an efficient, drug free way to help
eradicate parasites. No method is 100%, but this is a very effective
method. Good luck! Scott F> |
Is This
Treatment A Fluke? (Use of Praziquantel To Combat Flukes)
Is
Praziquantel (Droncit) effective for flukes in marine fish?
<This
stuff has been used by some people to treat flukes effectively. It
should be administered carefully, like any medication>
How does it
affect inverts? What would be the right dosage to get rid of gill and
body flukes?
<I would not administer this, or any medication in the
display tank, regardless of the presence of inverts. The dosage that I
have seen used to combat flukes is 1ppm in saltwater. I know a couple of
people who swear by the stuff...Have not used it personally, however.>
I hope it still works in marine aquarium and is easy on the inverts...
It's magical in FW, no stress on fish, ok for bio-filtration etc...
Thanks, Luke
<Well, Luke- Praziquantel is certainly something that is
being used more and more these days to combat flukes in marine fish. You
could also use Formalin-based medications, or those containing Malachite
Green...It's worth a shot, however, if you're up to trying it...Good
luck! Regards, Scott F> - Wasting Disease -
<Hello,
JasonC here...>
Hi crew, have a problem I haven't been able to find
much on. Have a Sebae clown, wild caught, about 4 years old; always been
in perfect health.
Recently, I moved him to a larger tank, fish with
some inverts, no anemones (yet). About 2 weeks later he developed
Popeye, one eye, which I successfully treated with Epsom (thanks!). He
still has a good appetite, even still has that pearly iridescence around
the white bands that fresh-caught clowns have, BUT, he is beginning to
lose mass; first, developing the typical pinched forehead, now
progressing rearward both above and below the lateral line; no other
clowns in the tank, other specimens unaffected. He eats and comes out
less but is otherwise still pretty normal. <So you do see the fish
eating... it would seem to me with the other occupants, this fish might
be getting less that its fill.> His offered diet hasn't changed, if
anything is better because I am feeding a large French and Atlantic blue
tang, and very wary of HLLE, so they eat better than I do. My past
experience is that this guy is headed for checkout, but its been a
while, and if there is anything I can do I want to do it, so,
suggestions? <Well, isolation might help - make sure the fish is eating
well and without competition from the larger fish. Also, because this is
a wild fish, it is also more likely that it has an internal parasite (or
two) that are competing for the same nutrients, quite possibly nematodes
or Cestodes [tapeworms]. Both can be treated - you should be able to
obtain Praziquantel [for the Cestodes] and/or Fenbendazole [for the
nematodes] from your local veterinarian. I would work with one of these
at a time, and administer in baths for 2-3 hours. More information on
these treatments can be found in the Edward Noga book, Fish Disease,
which while expensive is very complete... and an eye-full.> Thanks,
Steve J.
<Cheers, J -- >
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