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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases: Flukes/Digenes & (Monogene) Trematodes

Related Articles: Marine Parasitic Disease, Parasitic Worms, Roundworms

Related FAQs: Fish Worm Diseases 1, Marine Worm Parasites 2Marine Worm Parasites 3, & FAQs on Marine Worm Parasites: Diagnosis/Symptomology, Etiology/Prevention, Cures That Don't Work, Cures That Do Work, Products/Manufacturers... Tapeworms/Cestodes, Leeches/Hirudineans, "Other" Worms and Worm-Like Parasites... Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges... De-wormers (Piperazine, Praziquantel...) & FAQs, Yellow Tang Disease, Parasitic Disease 2, Parasitic Disease 3, Parasitic Marine Tanks, Parasitic Reef Tanks, Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich, Marine Velvet Disease Biological Cleaners, Treating Parasitic Disease, Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease, RoundwormsYellow Tangs, Tang Health/Disease

Is Praziquantel (Droncit) effective for flukes in marine fish? Oh yes.

Formalin baths can be efficacious

Organophosphates can work (e.g. DTHP by many names (see WWM),... Med-Aqua, Fluke Tabs)

Hyposalinity is not usually effective.
 

It's Not A Fluke.. Or Is It?
Good Morning Scott,
<Hi there!>
Many thanks for your quick response. After observing my fish further, it would appear that my blue face angel has
white, clear patches over his eyes. The patches seem to be loose. This fish only seems to scratch his head from time to time, not the rest of the body.
<Hmm...>
Do you think this could be flukes????? I have seen some type of thread item on both eyes about 3-4mm in length and orange in colour (worm)? It's hard to get a good look as he is shy at the best of time.
<That is a distinct possibility>
My purple tang is also looking well fat (like never before) even if I don't feed the tank for 24 hours. This is really unusual. I'm now starting to lean towards some type of internal / external worm in the system.
<These fishes do occasionally come in with internal parasites...>
I used to have a powder blue tang that passed away a year ago as each morning he would have what appeared to be bad white spot but by the afternoon it would be totally gone. Anyway the bug finally beat him and he died (poor thing). However after doing a heap of research, it would appear that monogenetic flukes (I think this is the correct name) can act in this way, leaving he host and return early in the morning? Quite possible that it was never white spot and monogenetic flukes (can look familiar to the naked eye). They may have been lying dormant and ready to attack in force. Understand that large angels are prone to this. Any ideas would be great as I'm thinking about treating the tank again with
Sterazin (by Waterlife in the UK).
Thanks again Che  
<Excellent insights and research, Che. As you suggest, large angels are certainly prone to contracting these creatures. I'd utilize a treatment course using a Formalin-based product, if you suspect this to be the case. You really want to use it as a dip, rather than an ongoing treatment, but it is known to do the trick! You can find out more about treatment of flukes on the WWM site. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Flukes
Hello WWM crew!
<Bob, it's Bob>
Is it safe to dose a marine fish-only system ( retail ) with Praziquantel? Flukes are becoming problematic, and are costing too much time. We dip all new arrivals in FW, but still are experiencing this problem. Within a week of arrival, Angels and Tangs are covered in these disgusting worms.
We now dip all outgoing fish before departure, but as you can imagine, this is difficult, especially on weekends.
<Mmm, yes, can be done... and I would amend your bath/dipping procedures adding formaldehyde to the mix (about an ounce per five gallons, a one-gallon capful per two gallons...) of 37 % food-grade>
Since you guys are my best info buddies, I ask for your help again. What do ya think, and how do I fix this?
<Mmm, Praziquantel can be used in marine (not freshwater) systems with fluke problems (both mono- and digenes)... Do you have sub-systems for your marine fishes? Or capacity to separate them completely? I might look around for other suppliers if this is a constant problem... And to all, if you're dealing much with fish livestock from the wild, and/or a mix of species imported, do invest in a copy of Edward J. Noga's "Fish Disease, Diagnosis and Treatment"... wish this was less expensive, more widely distributed... can be had through on-line book sources... Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance,
Bob Hartline
The Aquarium, Concord, Ca.

- That's 'Todes, not Toads -
I have just noticed about 7-9 extremely small parasitic trematodes (or flukes) in my salt water reef tank. <Are they on your fish or around and about?> What can I do? <Not all 'todes are necessarily parasitic. Unless these are directly on your fish or you corals, I wouldn't be too concerned.> I just put my black percula into the tank yesterday after treating him with formaldehyde and malachite green for a week.  I just put the fish in the tank last night before I saw any of the trematodes.  I know they will begin to multiple and ruin my fish tank if left alone. <Not necessarily.> Although I do not have a lot of corals in there currently, what I do have is precious and currently I have no where else to place the corals to allow me to treat the tank with any solution. <Perhaps it's time to obtain such equipment.> It is a 29 gallon saltwater tank with an anemone, black percula, royal Gramma, 10 blue legs and scarlet reef hermits, one serpent star, and a couple corals (none of which have been purchased in the last 6 months).  The ammonia = 0, nitrite = 0, pH = 8.3, alkalinity = 8-10, calcium = 400ppm.
How can I prevent the spread and overgrowth of these unwanted parasites? <Again, I'm not convinced these are parasitic - there are only a couple of treatments that work against the 'todes and if you must treat, you'll have to remove all the invertebrate livestock from the tank. Fenbendazole, Piperazine, and Praziquantel are the most common treatments for nematodes and Cestodes, but are typically administered in baths for the affected fish. I'd keep a very close eye on things for the mean while, looking for problems with the fish, not necessarily just crawling around.>
Jennifer
<Cheers, J -- >

Unwelcome Hitchers (External Parasites?)
Hello everyone.  Hope all is well today.  If I may,  I'd like to get your  help IDing a problem a few of my fish are having.
<I'll try! Scott F. here today>
I noticed a few days ago that my Tomato Clown had a small, flat, almost translucent disk shaped spot on it body, right behind the side fin so not near its gill. It's actually left a mark on its fin as well, maybe an irritation mark?
<Could be>  
It looked like it was not fully attached, maybe only at one point.  Now he has a few more, one is underneath his body and I can tell it is definitely not fully attached because it's vertical to its body and the bottom of it moves back and forth with him swimming/current.  The fish's body on one side only also shows some signs of like puckering marks or scar type marks that are a little darker than his body but I think he always has these marks and not sure if its related to these parasite-type things he has now - not lateral line disease.  I did some research on your site/web looking up parasites but none fit this
description,  and also checked out isopods, but these things do not look like a worm at all. Checked out flatworms too, but what my fish have no color.
<Curious>  
It's not Ich, been there done that and can ID that bugger...I know the tank has a few flatworms, as I've just recently spotted about 3 of them in my tank and I got a positive ID off your website, awesome pix posted by the way...It wouldn't be them attached to my fish right, don't they just eat amphipods?
<I don't believe that they'd be attaching to fishes>
  (I'm gonna siphon them out anyway next time I see 'em) What is on my fish remind me of a tiny shard of shiny glass (like the little shiny things you find in granite?), very very flat, like a piece of paper and circular in shape, the largest one is maybe the width of a small BB and the rest are a little smaller. They are almost translucent or clearish white. My coral beauty also has one now as well as the Hawkfish.  The fish all seem normal and not bothered by it.  They are eating as usual and swimming about. I don't see any labored breathing or anything.  My water quality is all within good range. I just ran all numbers by you last month so I'll spare you the details here, its all the same with the exception of my specific gravity being higher than usual.
Its normally 1.21-1.22  and it was 1.25. I'm very SLOWLY bringing that back within normal range (my normal range that is) with some water changes with lower SG than normal. I would like to figure out what these things are so I can do something to get rid of them.   I do remember that the tomato clown had one of these marks way back, when we first got him (tank is only like 8 months old).  It went away and I put it off to maybe he scratched himself on something and it left a mark, then healed up...guessing I was way wrong. I would try to get a pix but I don't think they would show well as they are sort of clearish, plus I don't think you can open the pix I send, as I tried once before.  
If these things ring a bell with you, an ID would be great,  if not, could  steer me in some direction as to what they MAY be I can try to do some more research, and possibly try to match up a picture off the web of what it may be.
As usual,  thanks a ton for taking the time to read/reply.  This site is an invaluable tool - thanks for sharing you knowledge...
Jan
<Well, Jan, I'm thinking that you may be seeing some form of monogenetic trematode, such as Benedina or other little nasties...Just a guess. Typically, external parasites, flukes, and worms can be knocked out with long-duration (like 30-60 minutes) of Formalin-based remedies (at a bout 200mg/l concentration in saltwater). Net the affected fishes and place them in a dedicated container for the treatment. Worth a shot, IMO. Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F>

What's in Fluke Tabs?
Hi Chuck! I bought the Fluke tabs. Do you know what are the active ingredients? It's not written on the product. Thanks! Dominique
<The active ingredients are Mebendazole and Trichlorfon.-Chuck> 
 
Praziquantel
Also Bob, I am wondering if you can help me.
We have some incident of trematodes in our system.  These worm/fluke is in the fish and when we fresh water dip the fish, the worm came off from the fish.  Some people I talk to say to treat with Praziquantel or PraziPro from Hikari.  Do you have any info as far as treating the entire system with PraziPro (side effect, other problems etc).
Thank you,
Fred
<Ah, yes. For trematodes, treating their systems as well as fish livestock, 2 to 10 mg Praziquantel/liter (or 7.6 mg/gallon)... the lower does for Monogeneans will do it, the higher for digenes. There are also methods (not applicable here) for injection and oral administration, baths... Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Praziquantel
Thanks Bob, what about PraziPro?  Is it safe?
<Yes... is just Praziquantel and a stabilizing agent: http://www.uskoi.com/prazipro.htm>
  I know it is a lot more expensive but no need to dilute.
<Agreed>
I heard you need to dilute Praziquantel with Vodka?
<Heeee! Can use this solvent... or not>
Also, how can you tell the difference between Monogeneans and digenes.
Thank you,
Fred
<Mmm, sorry for the added confusion. I would not worry re the digenetic trematodes... they can/will perish along with the rest or die out quickly enough due to the lack of intermediate hosts (Di as in two... two or more other life forms to pass through before getting to their determinate host (your fishes)...), as opposed to Monogenes that have a direct life cycle. Bob Fenner>

Cloudy eye on yellow tang
Quick question I hope you can answer for me
<Will try>
I purchased a yellow tang about 2 weeks ago and after several days he developed a cloudy looking eye with a small bubble on it.  Some of his fins also seemed a little torn.  I first thought it was due to new rocks I added causing him to injure himself
<More likely poor, diminished water quality... perhaps related to the new rock>
however I asked the man at the store and he told me to dip him in freshwater which I did.  When I dipped him little white "discs" fell off of him.
<Good observation>
  He looks a little better now but I'm not sure what else I should do.  Your help would be appreciated ! The water has been tested and is perfect in all aspects.  The only other fish are 2 clown fish .  I also have 6 snails and am purchasing a cleaner shrimp today.  I feed them pellet crumbles and occasionally dried seaweed.   Thank You
<Wish you had a small power microscope... could look at these discs, maybe send a pic along... Very likely what you observed was flukes of some sort... You can read re these, their avoidance, treatment on WWM... use the search tool there, the indices. Bob Fenner>

DTHP
Dear Robert,
         Read your web article about DTHP. Where can I get this material
<Is sold as such, by itself and in concert with other materials for pet-fish use in various products... mainly labeled as Masoten, Dylox... see a LFS re if you're looking to treat small volumes. We can chat if this is for thousands, much more volume.>
and have you heard of it being used against Gyrodactylus?
<Yes... you can see this through a literature search... the most recent work of Ed Noga, Nelson Herwig... Bob Fenner>
Steve

Sick French Angel, coral beauty dead ... flukes? - 03/12/2006
At the beginning, I had an adult coral beauty; snow flake eel, 6"; French Angel, 4"; Flame Hawk, 2".  The disease appears to start on the sides of the fish, then one eye becomes opaque and swollen, weight loss despite good eating habits, fins become frayed and finally, in the case of the coral beauty, death.  Now a month later and my French Angel is under the same attack.  The ill fish swims constantly against the current (my guess is that whatever it is, it is also attacking the gills.  Any ideas what this is?
Suggested treatments? Non-angel population seems fine. |
<This last is an important clue...>
Thanks, Bob
<... frightening... Could be a few things, but you'll need to make a microscopic examination to be sure. I suspect trematodes here... A gill and body scraping of mucus... with or w/o staining. You can read re their treatment on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Sick Lionfish, incl. Monogenetic Trematodes   03/07/06
Dear Bob,
<Chris>
Lately my lionfish has suffered from monogenes ( the worms that move around the fish and cause cloudy eyes....looks like ick)
<Yes.... trematodes... direct lifecycle types... can be real trouble...>
I didn't know what they were until it was too late because the lionfish was not scratching and it continued to eat like a pig.
<For others, and highly unlikely for the last time, a/the simple pH-adjusted FW bath/dips that have been advocated for so dang long, will/would take care of these flatworms... Dang! Okay.>
I attempted to feed it medicated food several occasions however it didn't seem to cure whatever was growing on the fish..
I didn't learn what it was until my friend pointed it out and called em monogenes. That night that he came over my lion had stopped eating.. So I gave him a 4 minute freshwater dip and then placed him into a 50gallon breeder tank with no substrate and medicated water with Copper Safe and Formalin 2. I did the formalin 2 for 3 days and I didn't see a whole lot of improvement
<Might have been too late by then>
and then I followed up with three days of Tetracycline and 3 days of half dose of Maracyn. The fishes eyes cleared up and improved 98% and the monogenes all seemed to fall off.
<Oh! Good!>
The fish has been in the quarantine tank for roughly 10days.. The tail that had tail rot seemed to stopped rotting and it seem to remain the same size. I saw the same
conditions on Saturday. The tail looked like it wasn't getting worse and the eyes looked pretty clear. However the fish hasn't ate for 14 days. So I decided maybe if I move the fish back into the main tank
<...? Is this a/the source of the Trematodes?>
it would start to eat and heal up. I noticed that when I caught the fish he gave me a hard time catching him and when I placed him in the main tank its tail looked much worse then it looked on Saturday however prior to catching it the tail seemed to be the same as it looked on Saturday. Overall the rest of the body is in great shape. Its a 14 inch lionfish and it has a huge home to live in. The tank he resides in is 240 gallon tank. I know you say the best way to get rid of a bacterial problem is to have stable water.
<Generally, yes... Given the animal/s are "strong enough" otherwise>
My water in my main tank is testing just fine right now. Was I right for moving him into back into the main tank?
<Doesn't read like you had much choice>
What is the best way to win over a bacterial infection and to get a fish to start eating again seeing the situation that I am in now?
Sincerely,
Christopher Faiola
<IF the animal can be made to eat, eats, to "sneak" a broad-spectrum gram negative antibiotic into its food would be my choice here. If not, to make a bath of this, in concentration, and soak the fish in it for ten, fifteen minutes (with aeration). Bob Fenner>
 
Re: PB tang parasite?   1/31/07
Thanks Bob,
I've adjusted his diet to get him eating more Nori than mysis, and he's taking to it.  I did a 2 gal water change using clean water from my main tank and didn't add anything back in because he seems to slowly be getting better.  Any idea what kind of parasite this is? Here's another pic.  
Thanks again
<Would take a scraping and a look/see under a dissection scope, but my guess is on monogenetic fluke/s of some sort... Hence the "de-wormer" rec. Do give this a read-over and consideration. Bob Fenner>

Localized fading skin color from parasites and L. amboinensis behavior... Flukes?  9/26/07
Aloha,
<Howzit?>
I have recently transplanted to the mainland from Hawaii. I mailed my little family of fish (kept for 2-3 years previously) to our current continental location. They were in a FO tank without live anything except the bacterial additive I used to set them up initially. As you know, Hawaii has very strict laws regulating the keeping of live rock or live sand, etc.
<Ah, yes>
Now, my current set up is FOWLR and some inverts.
46 gal bowfront (running for 3 months)
Remora C HOT skimmer
9 watt UV sterilizer
Emperor 400 with carbon and Poly Filter (I know it is not the best, but I already had it)
Current 96 watt compact fluorescents (10,000 K and actinic blue)
20-30 lbs mixed live/dead/Tufa rock and fake ornaments (Some of the fish are very attached to their ornaments and I don't have the heart to take it away)
Thin layer of mixed live and dead sand (approximately .75 inch)
Old inhabitants moved from Hawaii:
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
Pajama Cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera)
Yellow Clown goby (Gobiodon okinawae)
Two ocellaris clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris)
Since moving to the mainland the following are new:
Fire fish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
<Mmm... social animals...>
7-9 Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata rathbunae)
One "white antennae" Peppermint (Lysmata wurdemanni)
Two cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
<... will be some attrition amongst these shrimp with molting...>
25 assorted snails (Astrea, Nassarius, and Cerith)
<Too many...>
Live rock and Tufa rock
Water parameters:
Specific Gravity 1.0235
Temp. 78 degrees Fahrenheit
Ph 8.2
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0
Ammonia (unknown. I tested it then realized my kit was for fresh water- time to get a new kit. I keep both fresh and salt water tanks, but am newest to marine tanks, as you can tell. I'm assuming the levels are OK since the fish and inverts are all seemingly happy.
<Likely so>
Colors are vibrant and the shrimp produce eggs like crazy. I add iodine for the shrimps and calcium for the snails. Coralline algae seem to like it too.
<Ah, good>
Here's the problem: I sometimes see the Clown Gobi and the male ocellaris with clear/opaque non-pigmented spots. In the middle of these "spots" sits a tiny white dot which I am assuming is a parasite. These dots move around the body of the fish (I don't see them actually moving, but the next day, they are in a different place on the body of the fish). Sometimes it is on the tail, and sometimes near the dorsal fin, etc. Sometimes they are not detectable at all. When the little white parasite is gone, the color returns to the skin. The fish, so far, get only one or two dots. Only the ocellaris scratch (the female gets white dots without the blanching of the skin around the parasite). I have not observed the parasites on the other fish. The parasites do not seem to affect the fish in any noticeably negative way.
They all eat well (a variety of flake, Cyclop-eeze, frozen, table shrimp, once in a great while they get live brine, and Selcon periodically.
I am nervous about this since I am still battling what I think was velvet in another tank.
<Do strictly maintain separate gear... not even wet hands twixt...>
It is now fallow with four snails, a banded coral shrimp, one hermit crab, and a rock/sand crab stow away (small sand colored burrowing crab, almost impossible to see unless he moves). The sole remaining fish survivor is an IndoPacific Sergeant Major damsel named "Nemo" because he is missing his right fin. Nemo is tough and will probably recover. He has never stopped eating "like a pig", and seems to be doing well in quarantine. Sorry for the digression.
My questions are:1) What do you think this parasite is? (it acts most like the freshwater Chilodonella as described by National Fish Pharmaceuticals
<Mmm, no... you wouldn't be able to see this... Perhaps a trematode... a Fluke of some sort...>
2) What should I do about it? Will the shrimp take care of the problem, or should I quarantine and treat the fish and let the tank go fallow for 2 months?
<Mmmm, you could try an anthelminthic... My fave currently, Prazi... quantel, -pro...>
I would hate to lose these fish too, especially since they are family pets (all have names), I feel very responsible for them since I am of the thought that we should treat all the creatures we invite into our homes with the best care possible. 3) If I need to treat the fish, what should I use? Copper, Malachite green, something else? Are these medications too strong for my little fish?
<Yes...>
I have not seen the cleaner shrimp "clean" any of the fish. They are relatively new. The larger cleaner shrimp seems aggressive. He/she will lunge at the fish if they come too near. (It could be self defense because when I put it in the tank, it unfortunately landed on the clowns' favorite fake anemone. Needless to say, the clowns were very upset and proceeded to attack the shrimp. I had to intervene at this point and "shoo" the shrimp into the rocks.) It also intimidates the peppermints and has taken over their favorite "hang out".
<Will eventually eat them...>
Is this normal behavior for a grouchy L. amboinensis?
<Yes>
Should I consider putting it in with the banded coral shrimp in the "velvet" tank?
<Will likely be eaten there by the CBS>
I know banded coral shrimp can kill other shrimp. I have seen a large one sever the arm off a smaller one, yet on the web I have seen pictures of banded coral shrimp and L. amboinensis shrimp living in the same tank. What do you suggest?
<Another or larger system>
One other thought. Should I get a cleaner goby or two?
<I do like these...>
Or will it suffer the same fate and get this parasite also?
<Perhaps so>
Would the small fish in my tank be more likely to let the cleaner gobies pick at them?
<Mmm, no... not more than the Lysmata spp.>
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Mahalo in advance,
Lyn
<Read re the Prazi... and consider a larger tank. A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>

Unknown parasite on butterflyfish please help. Flukes? 8/7/07
Hi,
I Have a show size masked Heniochus Butterflyfish in a 225gal fish only. He has small clear flatworm looking parasites behind his gills and eating his fins. He is constantly shaking I think trying to shake them off. What could this be and how do I kill it out of my tank?
<Likely flukes... a pH-adjusted, slightly slower spg bath with formalin should do it here if this is a digene (has a complex life cycle)...>
My butterfly was in my quarantine tank for a month and a week and showed no signs of any thing. My quarantine tank is a 110L treated with Coppersafe. Out of desperation I treated my main tank with copper
<May have to treat all with an organophosphate...>
and I have still had to fresh water dip my fish 3 times and they still keep coming back.
<Need the formalin...>
The only other fish I have in there is a yellow tang and a regal tang and they have never shown any signs of the parasite.
<Many trematodes are quite species specific>
I have turned off my uv sterilizer recently, my skimmer is still running. My copper in the aquarium is reading 1.5. They look like clear little flatworms
<Ahh!>
and are moving around on that fish only mainly behind his gills and on his fins. they have frayed the ends of all his fins. Please Help
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Parasite Help... and I mean HELP! Trematode plus infested lg. SW sys.   7/10/07
Hi guys
Great site! This is my first question to your site, I feel need some professional help.
My blue face angel is sick, and Am not sure how to fix him.
My Tank Stats:
First of all, I am writing from Australia. It is 10x2x2 ft and has been set up for over four years now. Am a tang lover and I have five tangs in there at the moment which are Blue Regal, Sailfin, Purple, Yellow and Lipstick. I also have an Eiblii Angel, Flame Angel, Premnas clown, three Zebra Darts, four Pyjama Cardinals, Marine Betta, a Blue Spot Sting Ray and of course, the Blue Face Angel. I do natural sea water changes of approximately 300 litres every two to three weeks.
<Mmm, we should review your protocol for the treatment, storage of the natural water...>
I've tested temp, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, KH and all are fine except nitrate at about 10 ppm.
The angel has been in the tank now for about three weeks and he was not quarantined (I know, my bad). When he first went into the tank he had a slightly cloudy eye and was scratching on one side, right near the gill. After a few days the cloudy eye seemed to clear and I thought he was on the mend.
Then (about a week and a half ago) I added the Flame Angel who did and still seems healthy.
The cloudy eye then got worse on the Blue Face and I also noticed a small wound near the anal fin (see attached). The tangs also started to scratch and have been acting strangely, huddling in a corner of the tank. I cant see any white spot on them however I have noticed the Yellow Tang has a few missing bits out of his side fin and the Sailfin has some scratches from the rocks. These fish have been healthy for years. All fish are eating normally.
I was advised by a local it could be flukes and to give the Blue Face a fresh water bath with RO water (temperature and PH adjusted) which I did for about two minutes and in the water I found these clear little things which seemed to fall off him (see attached). They kind of look like scales or like a little contact lenses with three circles on them.
Are these a parasite?
<Yes... the organism pictured at the tip of the pen appears to be a Fluke... and trouble... you need to determine whether this is a mono- or digenean (for means of figuring out whether the life cycle can be easily broken), and if a Monogenean, whether it is ovi- or vivi-parous... By microscopic view of the rear attachment organ (the opisthoraptor)... the one shown is inverted... To get a general idea of how to proceed treatment wise. Small flukes can be dislodged via such FW dips, w/ or w/o ancillary materials added... Larger species of Monogeneans can be very tough to dislodge... require extended, high-concentration baths of formalin (e.g. 400 ppm) and many species, weakened individuals can't take this... Skipping ahead... as am sure you realize the extent of the non-quarantine blunder here by now... you may be lucky and get away with use of an organophosphate treatment here period... Many flukes are to degrees species, genus, family specific in their host selection...>
Would this be the cause of the scratching, cloudy eye and would the other fish have it?
<Possibly, but you may well have a mixed species parasitic situation... and yes, possibly>
How can I get rid of it, as I don't have a quarantine tank anymore?
<You don't need a QT, you need a treatment system... but as your main system is infested, you will likely want to treat it... Not a pleasant prospect...>
If I kill them off the fish, are they still living in the water and will they just re-infect?
<Bingo>
Id be happy to treat the main tank with something as long as it doesn't kill my sting ray and bubble tip anemones.
<...>
Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the essay, but am trying to give you as much info as I can.
Thanks
Brett & Leanne
<My friend... Quarantine... use it, believe in it, live it... You have some trying times ahead. Cartilaginous fishes do not "like" acetylcholinesterase inhibitors... I don't know exactly where to start or continue with you here... IF you had time I'd have you buy and peruse Ed Noga's "Fish Disease, Diagnosis & Treatment", get/use a cheap microscope (likely the QX product line would do here)... But your fishes may be all dead by then (a few days to weeks)... At this point, do look around the Net, your large local library, WWM under the terms: "Flukes", "Trematodes", "Organophosphate" treatments... Bob Fenner>

Coppering White Face Tang.( Acanthurus japonicus). Crypt... And flukes...   10/23/07
Last Monday I purchased what appeared to be a healthy, eating and active white face tang from my LFS. After bringing him home, giving a FW dip with Methylene blue, acclimating and placing in my QT. I noticed a small thread like thing hanging from his fin. I believe this was an anchor worm.
<Mmm>
Over the next four days I did 2 more FW dips (I always use Methylene blue). The worm never detached. But I did notice a few small critters in the rinse container afterwards. I've got pics of these and will attach them for you. I was able to view them through my handy dandy kiddy CSI lab microscope at 200 mag.
<Neat!>
Even able to get a pic through the microscope with my wife's digital camera on macro setting. Kinda neat to see. I'll post it also. But these aren't really the subject of my question, as Friday afternoon I noticed the spots indicative of ick. I began coppering Saturday morning. Using Cupramine. I am now up to the recommended .50 ppm dosage and want to be sure I do this delicate fish right. Is this what dosage you would suggest for this fish with this product?
<For this product, how the active ingredient is measured, this is about right>
Or do I need to lower it down? I noticed somewhere here you recommended a lower dosage? But with Cupramine? The directions say .50.
<Keep it near this... measure at least daily>
I brought that up over 48 hours as directed. Also I though I saw where you recommended not using continuous copper on this fish.
<Yes... there are other/better medicants to use on/with Acanthuroids>
Does that mean only with baths?
<Another viable approach, yes>
Or can I continue with the 14 day treatment as indicated?
<You can... will be debilitating>
I would like to actually remove the fish as soon as possible from the QT to the DT. Not in a rush here, but trying to do the right thing and limit exposure. As well as guaranteeing an Ick free DT. I do not want to go down that road again! I'll do whatever it takes to guarantee my 125 and 65 stays ick free. But If I treated the powder brown for 7 days and then removed him and placed it in the 125. Would that cover my bases here.
<I would at least add a pH adjusted FW and Formalin dip/bath twixt the QT/TT and DT here>
It seems to me I would be killing any ick that are free swimming (I forget the term). Trying to attach now. So in 7 days then all ick would have dropped off and not allowed to attach again. Thereby assuring a properly timed "transfer". Of course I'll continue the treatment of the QT for the duration to guarantee its safe for the next addition. If this looks like a viable option, I would like to use it. But wont risk the infestation of the 125. If its OK to treat it for the 14 days and this isn't a viable option, I'll continue this coarse.
<course>
Thank You so very much for your help. You site has been an incredible contribution to my success in this hobby.
Charlie Bunch
<In the meanwhile I'd read re the causative organism, it's treatment... Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm
and the many linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Flukes (and success with a Sweetlips!)
Hi Bob,
Happy new year, sorry to bother you so early, but I have a question. My Red Sea regal angel, for some time now I have noticed that every now and then gets some, splinter like white things from it's body, Sometimes from the head, or body. They stay on for about two days or sometimes as the day progresses they disappear. I didn't worry about it because the fish continues to be the beauty of the display. Normal behavior and eating as usual. Is there a cure for this, how can I treat it and will it eventually kill the fish. 
<Mmm, perhaps this is a trematode... I would try a facultative cleaner here... first a Lysmata species of shrimp... not likely to kill the fish outright (the flukes), but debilitating, perhaps disfiguring just the same...>
I was on the WWM last night and that how I kind of determined the fish as flukes. Please offer advice this is my most prized fish. Also, can adding copper to a system cause a fish to stop eating or not as much as before.
<Absolutely... copper cancels much of "smell, taste" sensations>
I added copper to my quarantine tank, which has a Sweetlips and Kole tang for ick. The Kole tang still eats, but the Sweetlips has stopped. 
<Yikes... Sweetlips aren't easily kept... as you know from looking over WWM no doubt... not good that yours has ceased feeding... would move it ASAP to a non-coppered, less-stressful setting>
He will put food in his mouth but not swallow. The ick has cleared it's been about 7 days now, do you think I should add carbon back to the system or do a water change. I think the copper has curbed his appetite. Thanks for the advice, Bob and hope all is well. Gillian
<Much to "judge" in the way of presumed benefits/risks in our hobbies... Bob Fenner>

Re: Flukes
So Bob, you're saying there is a possibility that the Sweetlips may not eat again.
<Unfortunately, this is the common plight: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/haemulid.htm>
I will remove the copper at once. Is there any way to totally get rid of flukes on the regal angel.
<Hopefully this is a digenetic species, needing an intermediate host species or two... and will "cycle out" on its own... otherwise the Cleaner may eradicate it>
What about good water quality. I have some cleaner shrimp, but they are lazy, they hide when the fish go next to them. I don't think they'll help. To me the flukes appear to be internal, when they pop through the skin of the fish. Are there any other treatment options for flukes. What do you mean when you say the fish will debilitated. I don't want this Bob, help me Thanks
<Not likely "popping out, through"... there are some chemical treatments, but I would try another cleaner... maybe a Labropsis wrasse... Bob Fenner>

Re: Digenetic Flukes (Metacercaria)?
Steven, I found this info. If this is it should I not put the fish in my main tank and instead take him back to the store?
<I would not put him back in your main tank, but I am not sure what is wrong with your fish, yet.>
Digenetic Flukes (Metacercaria): Typically seen in newly imported fish and in two forms. Black spot is caught from snails that release the Cercaria. Larval forms penetrate the skin and encyst in the tissue and may be seen as red or black nodules. If eaten by a bird for instance they then develop into adults. Sanguinicola disease passes from fish to snail and then back as minute worms that live in the fishes bloodstream. There they lay eggs that block up the blood vessels which in turn causes Necrosis. As far as I know there is still no cure for this problem.
<I am not sure this is your (your fish's) problem. -Steven Pro>

Flukes?  2/25/03
Hi!<Hey Steve!  Phil here!> I think my fish have flukes.<Oh no.. not good.> They get white things on them, Head & sides. I give them a fresh water dip & see these white things stretch out like worms & jump off. I have already lost most fish. they start hiding & breathing hard & die. I think I will lose my last few fish. What I'm wondering is how long I should Leave the tank empty to get rid of them? Will they get on shrimp, crabs or starfish?<These guys are fine.> Thank you!
Steve<Well Steve..  I'm glad your dipping your fish in fresh water.  But you can't add them back to the main tank right away!  Then need to be placed in a hospital tank for at least 4 weeks.  The main tank MUST run w/o fish for this amount of time so these fluke-like creatures die off.  Remember to place all new livestock/live rock in a hospital tank for at least 4 weeks also to stop any viruses from entering your main tank!!  Hope this helps and good luck!  Phil>

Grab Bag of Parasites?
Please help with the following questions...
<Sure thing! Scott F. here again today>
- When it says 'will kill invertebrates' on copper medication, does that include shrimp, snails and crabs?
<precisely>
- Is copper also good for flukes?
<I prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...>
- What are ectoparasites? (Ich? Flukes? Velvet?)
<Consult the WWM site for specific forms>
- One of the remedies to get rid of parasites is to lower salinity to 15ppm. Will that also kill flukes and velvet? How safe is this on corals, snails, crabs and shrimp?
<Hyposalinity treatment can work for some parasitic diseases...I'm not a huge fan of it. It can be harmful to inverts>
- Will the banded coral shrimp also 'eat' ich and velvet and flukes from fish? Would this plus UV sterilizer be a good alternative to using medications?
<The CBS will pick at some parasites...but it cannot get them all. A UV sterilizer is good at possibly stopping some of the parasites when they are free-swimming...I still use meds...>
- Finally, in one of my 20g tanks, I'd like to keep one Banded Coral Shrimp and one Harlequin Shrimp. Will they be ok with each other? Will they be ok with reefs?
<They should be fine with corals...But there may be some aggression between the two...Be prepared to move somebody>
As always, huge, huge thanks for your help.
Luke
<A pleasure, Luke! That's why we're here! Regards, Scott F>

No Meds In A Display Tank!
> <Sure thing! Scott F. here again today>
>  - Is copper also good for flukes?
> <I prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...>
I've heard that Formalin is a big no-no in marine and reef tanks (hard on corals, will kill bio filtration, will kill live rock).
No? Thank you, Luke
<You are absolutely right Luke.  Under no circumstances would you ever dose this, or any other medication in a display tank.  Formalin should be administered only in a controlled environment such as a "hospital tank."  It is highly effective against flukes, however.  Follow manufacturer's instructions to the letter when you use this stuff.  Good luck!  Scott F.>

Formalin Works-But What About The Display Tank? (Flukes)
Right, but flukes lay eggs that get deeply into the gravel sometimes (making them so hard to cure). So even if one does treat the fish in separate tank, you're still going to have flukes in the main tank, no? Thank you.
<Well, the approach to many parasitic infestations is to deprive them of their hosts...Thus, the oft-recommended "fallow tank" technique is an efficient, drug free way to help eradicate parasites. No method is 100%, but this is a very effective method. Good luck! Scott F>

Is This Treatment A Fluke? (Use of Praziquantel To Combat Flukes)
Is Praziquantel (Droncit) effective for flukes in marine fish?
<This stuff has been used by some people to treat flukes effectively. It should be administered carefully, like any medication>
How does it affect inverts? What would be the right dosage to get rid of gill and body flukes?
<I would not administer this, or any medication in the display tank, regardless of the presence of inverts. The dosage that I have seen used to combat flukes is 1ppm in saltwater. I know a couple of people who swear by the stuff...Have not used it personally, however.>
I hope it still works in marine aquarium and is easy on the inverts... It's magical in FW, no stress on fish, ok for bio-filtration etc...
Thanks, Luke
<Well, Luke- Praziquantel is certainly something that is being used more and more these days to combat flukes in marine fish. You could also use Formalin-based medications, or those containing Malachite Green...It's worth a shot, however, if you're up to trying it...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Wholesale fish to UK and fish gill flukes 6/18/03
Dear Anthony,
<cheers, my friend>
Just to let you know, I received my fish yesterday. I acclimatized them as I described and yesterday the fish were not looking too good.
<common for transshipped specimens... often no worries>
This morning however, all the fish are up  and swimming around and most are feeding already, which I am very pleased about.
<excellent to hear>
1 was sent a cream angel, which was DOA,
<a lovely but fragile fish indeed>
the 2 convict tangs were large, one DOA the other was in a bad state but has settled well. The clown/Pyjama tangs are doing well, a tad aggressive but not hurting anything.
<heehee... typical... bullies>
the powder blue tangs are very good, around 5", very full body and bright in colour. the other fish I received were Scott's fairy wrasse. these are doing very well, lovely little fish.
<quite challenging to keep... requires a very high quality diet. And likely a tank with no tangs, clowns, damsels or active/aggressive feeders>
I was wondering if I could ask your advice again?
<always welcome my friend>
in another tank I have an Addis butterfly, gold ring butterfly, Auriga butterfly and a baby epaulette shark.
<interesting>
I have noticed the butterflies have been flicking their heads against the rock work and shaking a lot.
<yes... AKA "glancing". Indicative of gill irritation. Most often caused by water quality or actual parasites on the gills as you would expect>
I have treated with various treatments as I am sure that it is a parasite/flukes.
<quite commonly>
I have used Myxazin (don't know if you have it over there-it is a Waterlife product), removed the fish and tried copper, and now have resulted in MelaFix.
<I can assure you that Melafix is a complete waste of time/money if they are flukes. >
can you suggest any other treatment other than a freshwater dip (as
I am not confident enough to carry this out-I know it is easy and have done it before but I don't like doing it) the main problem is the shark and I don't want this to spread as I want to add some of my stock to the tanks once conditioned. the Addis butterfly (my pride and joy) has scraped against the decor so hard that it has broken the scales and they are reddening.
<do consider a Formalin treatment... long bath on the tank or stronger dose in a dip. Methylene blue may be added cautiously/judiciously>
this is my favourite fish and was difficult to obtain. other than this there are no other external signs on the fish. Any suggestions would be gratefully received!
<the shark really jams things up here... it is sensitive to metals and organic dyes as well as lower salinity which all would help your primary treatment with Formalin. It would be best to remove the shark for a 4 week isolation period... unless this tank is not bare bottomed in which case it should not be medicated at all. Leave the shark and pull all others to QT>
thanks again, and I hope you can answer, thank you for giving up your time. Regards, Sam Baker
<best of luck, my friend! Anthony>

- Parasitic Flatworms -
Hi all!
Thanks for the prompt response on the last email.  On your suggestion I dipped the Purple Firefish (the only one with a visible fluke-worm-thing) however I have a sneaking suspicion that you meant for me to dip ALL my fish.  Is this the case? <Yes, I would dip all the fish, just to be safe.> Just the Firefish took me three days and a minor re-aquascaping to capture and dip.  And the blenny and wrasse will probably be more difficult.  At least the clownfish will be easy.  It was stated in the response that I may end up dipping quite often, is there some other way? <To deal with the parasites, not really. To make fish capture easier, I would partially drain the tank, will make it much easier to catch the fish.> I had intended to add a pair of neon gobies as soon as I could find and quarantine some, would this help? <No, the gobies will likely do nothing to affect this problem, and may even succumb to it themselves.> And will the 6-line I already have be some assistance? <Probably not.> How should this affect my continued stocking? <I would stop adding any new livestock for the moment, procure a quarantine tank or two and be more careful in the future when you add livestock.> Finally, are the "fluke" and "spot" problems one in the same? <Yes.>
Thanks in advance for the additional help.
Happy New Year
Tony
PS- Is there any way to know which FAQ this will end up in? <Not sure, perhaps here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisfaqs.htm > I'd like to read up on similar problems if I could.                 
<Cheers, J -- >

 


 

 

 

 

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