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FAQs on Parasitic Marine Worm Diseases: Flukes/Digenes & (Monogene)
Trematodes
Related Articles: Marine Parasitic Disease,
Parasitic Worms, Roundworms,
Related FAQs: Fish Worm Diseases 1,
Marine Worm Parasites 2, Marine Worm
Parasites 3, & FAQs on Marine Worm Parasites:
Diagnosis/Symptomology,
Etiology/Prevention, Cures That
Don't Work, Cures That Do Work,
Products/Manufacturers...
Tapeworms/Cestodes,
Leeches/Hirudineans, "Other" Worms
and Worm-Like Parasites...
Paravortex/Black Spot Disease, Anthelminthics/Vermifuges...
De-wormers (Piperazine, Praziquantel...) &
FAQs, Yellow Tang Disease,
Parasitic Disease 2, Parasitic Disease
3, Parasitic Marine Tanks,
Parasitic Reef Tanks,
Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Marine Velvet
Disease Biological Cleaners,
Treating Parasitic Disease,
Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease,
Roundworms, Yellow Tangs,
Tang Health/Disease, |
Is Praziquantel (Droncit) effective for flukes in marine fish? Oh
yes.
Formalin baths can be efficacious
Organophosphates can work (e.g. DTHP by many names (see WWM),...
Med-Aqua, Fluke Tabs)
Hyposalinity is not usually effective. |
Tanged and confused: Oversized fish, Flukes 10/20/2009
Hi there,
<Hello>
I bought a 55 gallon fish tank a little over a week ago. I bought the
whole set up from a man who had a 20 gallon refugium with gravity feed
hose and a protein skimmer (not sure on the name) My test kits are kind
of old so I have been taking the water to the LFS to be tested and every
time (3x's) it has been fine.
<I highly recommend you purchase your own test kits, less moral fish
stores will tell you that your water is fine to encourage you to buy
more animals.>
I am a little worried a because of the fish that this man had kept in
the tank. He had a Clown fish (about 3 in) a Sailfin Tang (about 4 in)
<The Sailfin Tang needs to find a new home, way to big in the long run,
and likely to big now considering he has been in the tank at least two
years.>
these two he had had for about 2 years and then he had added more
recently (with in the last few weeks) a Blue Tang (1.5 in)
<Also way to large for this tank, although he fits in the tank
physically now, psychological stress can be caused by being kept in such
a small tank.>
As far as aggression goes they are all fine. The Blue Tang hides often
and the other two let her. Though I know I will need to upgrade to a 150
gal or larger in the future or re-home one of the Tangs, for now they
seem to be doing fine.
<I would find them new homes ASAP and research stocking a 55G aquarium
on WetWebMedia.>
The problem I have seen is with the Blue Tang. I have seen whitish
circular spots on her and her belly is looked swollen. She has also been
scratching A LOT and so my hunt for a cause and cure started. I have
been reading up on your site for 2 days now and it sounds like
monogenetic trematodes though I have been overwhelmed by the amount of
information out there. She swims oddly (no other way to really say that)
spends most of her time hiding or at the top of the tank (often face
down). She has been eating and seems happy enough so that’s a plus. I
need help in how best to treat this.
< I would recommend a Prazi treatment in a separate quarantine tank,
there are several products available commercially including Prazipro,
however there are other options for treatment, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmidcuref.htm.>
Also because I bought this as a complete set up I do not have a QT set
up though I am going to set one up today. I am however unsure as to how
to set up a QT in one day… maybe use cycled water from my tank and add
new salt water to my display? Then use the sponge my in my refugium as a
filter in my QT and replace with another sponge though I do have a 5
gallon refugium I could use (your thoughts on
this)?
<That sounds like an excellent start, make sure to provide some flow,
and during medications you use be sure to make sure the water is
adequately aerated, although the powerhead may take care of that
depending on the tank you set up. Just make sure to pick up a test kit
and continually test this "quarantine" water and administer water
changes as needed.>
Am I off base in any way? Please point me in the right direction. Thank
you for your time.
<I think you have a good start to your research, and I would highly
recommend setting up a quarantine and treating your fish. However, both
of the tangs should be returned or gifted to another aquarium keeper
with a minimum of a 6ft tank for them to be kept in.>
Sabrina
<Good luck,
Josh Solomon.>
PraziPro, use, flukes Hello, I recently
purchased a Klein Butterfly, after being in a quarantine tank for 2
weeks (with nothing apparently wrong) I added it to the display tank.
Now I think it may have flukes because it scratches against rocks a lot.
<Mmm, might I ask, how much is "a lot?". Most fishes can/do "scratch
some"...> Catching it would be very difficult and would stress out it
as well as others. The tank is a 180 g reef with many SPS and LPS and
snails, no shrimp or crabs. PraziPro states that it is safe for most
aquarium inhabitants, but I am skeptical. If left untreated will the
flukes spread to others? <Mmm, not often... turns out that most
Trematodes are rather species, genus, family specific> Are there any
whole tank treatments? Thanks Mike Winston <There are... but I
urge patience here... Have another few weeks go by... see if the
"scratching" abates... not worth the risk of killing all (and there may
indeed be a bunch!) of your Praziquantel sensitive life here. Bob
Fenner> Re:
PraziPro, flukes 10/3/08 Thanks for the reply,
well he is scratching enough to cause some scales to come off, <!
This is too much. Let's see... there are several, okay a few reasons why
fishes "scratch"...> no bleeding but looks bad. I added some iodine
to water thinking it might help with wound. <Good> So my other
fish include yellow and hippo tang, swallowtail angel, blue throat
trigger, dispar Anthias, Sixline wrasse and some clowns. If flukes are
not an issue to others I will hold off any tank treatment, I was
concerned others might be infected. <A reasonable concern. I am more
inclined to consider other (Protozoan) possibilities... Still, at this
juncture, I would not "add" anything here... The fact that the range of
fish life you list is doing fine... leads me to wonder re other "itchy"
potentials... maybe this fish brushed up against something irritating...
BobF> Thanks again. Mike It's Not A Fluke.. Or Is
It? Good Morning Scott, <Hi there!> Many thanks for your
quick response. After observing my fish further, it would appear that my
blue face angel has white, clear patches over his eyes. The patches
seem to be loose. This fish only seems to scratch his head from time to
time, not the rest of the body. <Hmm...> Do you think this could
be flukes????? I have seen some type of thread item on both eyes about
3-4mm in length and orange in colour (worm)? It's hard to get a good
look as he is shy at the best of time. <That is a distinct
possibility> My purple tang is also looking well fat (like never
before) even if I don't feed the tank for 24 hours. This is really
unusual. I'm now starting to lean towards some type of internal /
external worm in the system. <These fishes do occasionally come in
with internal parasites...> I used to have a powder blue tang that
passed away a year ago as each morning he would have what appeared to be
bad white spot but by the afternoon it would be totally gone. Anyway the
bug finally beat him and he died (poor thing). However after doing a
heap of research, it would appear that monogenetic flukes (I think this
is the correct name) can act in this way, leaving he host and return
early in the morning? Quite possible that it was never white spot and
monogenetic flukes (can look familiar to the naked eye). They may have
been lying dormant and ready to attack in force. Understand that large
angels are prone to this. Any ideas would be great as I'm thinking about
treating the tank again with Sterazin (by Waterlife in the UK).
Thanks again Che <Excellent insights and research, Che. As you
suggest, large angels are certainly prone to contracting these
creatures. I'd utilize a treatment course using a Formalin-based
product, if you suspect this to be the case. You really want to use it
as a dip, rather than an ongoing treatment, but it is known to do the
trick! You can find out more about treatment of flukes on the WWM site.
Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Flukes Hello WWM crew!
<Bob, it's Bob> Is it safe to dose a marine fish-only system ( retail
) with Praziquantel? Flukes are becoming problematic, and are costing
too much time. We dip all new arrivals in FW, but still are experiencing
this problem. Within a week of arrival, Angels and Tangs are covered in
these disgusting worms. We now dip all outgoing fish before
departure, but as you can imagine, this is difficult, especially on
weekends. <Mmm, yes, can be done... and I would amend your
bath/dipping procedures adding formaldehyde to the mix (about an ounce
per five gallons, a one-gallon capful per two gallons...) of 37 %
food-grade> Since you guys are my best info buddies, I ask for your
help again. What do ya think, and how do I fix this? <Mmm,
Praziquantel can be used in marine (not freshwater) systems with fluke
problems (both mono- and digenes)... Do you have sub-systems for your
marine fishes? Or capacity to separate them completely? I might look
around for other suppliers if this is a constant problem... And to all,
if you're dealing much with fish livestock from the wild, and/or a mix
of species imported, do invest in a copy of Edward J. Noga's "Fish
Disease, Diagnosis and Treatment"... wish this was less expensive, more
widely distributed... can be had through on-line book sources... Bob
Fenner> Thanks in advance, Bob Hartline The Aquarium, Concord,
Ca. - That's 'Todes, not Toads - I have just noticed
about 7-9 extremely small parasitic trematodes (or flukes) in my salt
water reef tank. <Are they on your fish or around and about?> What can I
do? <Not all 'todes are necessarily parasitic. Unless these are directly
on your fish or you corals, I wouldn't be too concerned.> I just put my
black percula into the tank yesterday after treating him with
formaldehyde and malachite green for a week. I just put the fish in the
tank last night before I saw any of the trematodes. I know they will
begin to multiple and ruin my fish tank if left alone. <Not
necessarily.> Although I do not have a lot of corals in there currently,
what I do have is precious and currently I have no where else to place
the corals to allow me to treat the tank with any solution. <Perhaps
it's time to obtain such equipment.> It is a 29 gallon saltwater tank
with an anemone, black percula, royal Gramma, 10 blue legs and scarlet
reef hermits, one serpent star, and a couple corals (none of which have
been purchased in the last 6 months). The ammonia = 0, nitrite = 0, pH
= 8.3, alkalinity = 8-10, calcium = 400ppm. How can I prevent the
spread and overgrowth of these unwanted parasites? <Again, I'm not
convinced these are parasitic - there are only a couple of treatments
that work against the 'todes and if you must treat, you'll have to
remove all the invertebrate livestock from the tank. Fenbendazole,
Piperazine, and Praziquantel are the most common treatments for
nematodes and Cestodes, but are typically administered in baths for the
affected fish. I'd keep a very close eye on things for the mean while,
looking for problems with the fish, not necessarily just crawling
around.> Jennifer <Cheers, J -- >
Unwelcome Hitchers
(External Parasites?) Hello everyone. Hope all is well
today. If I may, I'd like to get your help IDing a problem a few of
my fish are having. <I'll try! Scott F. here today> I noticed a
few days ago that my Tomato Clown had a small, flat, almost translucent
disk shaped spot on it body, right behind the side fin so not near its
gill. It's actually left a mark on its fin as well, maybe an irritation
mark? <Could be> It looked like it was not fully attached, maybe
only at one point. Now he has a few more, one is underneath his body
and I can tell it is definitely not fully attached because it's vertical
to its body and the bottom of it moves back and forth with him
swimming/current. The fish's body on one side only also shows some
signs of like puckering marks or scar type marks that are a little
darker than his body but I think he always has these marks and not sure
if its related to these parasite-type things he has now - not lateral
line disease. I did some research on your site/web looking up parasites
but none fit this description, and also checked out isopods, but
these things do not look like a worm at all. Checked out flatworms too,
but what my fish have no color. <Curious> It's not Ich, been
there done that and can ID that bugger...I know the tank has a few
flatworms, as I've just recently spotted about 3 of them in my tank and
I got a positive ID off your website, awesome pix posted by the way...It
wouldn't be them attached to my fish right, don't they just eat
amphipods? <I don't believe that they'd be attaching to fishes>
(I'm gonna siphon them out anyway next time I see 'em) What is on my
fish remind me of a tiny shard of shiny glass (like the little shiny
things you find in granite?), very very flat, like a piece of paper and
circular in shape, the largest one is maybe the width of a small BB and
the rest are a little smaller. They are almost translucent or clearish
white. My coral beauty also has one now as well as the Hawkfish. The
fish all seem normal and not bothered by it. They are eating as usual
and swimming about. I don't see any labored breathing or anything. My
water quality is all within good range. I just ran all numbers by you
last month so I'll spare you the details here, its all the same with the
exception of my specific gravity being higher than usual. Its
normally 1.21-1.22 and it was 1.25. I'm very SLOWLY bringing that back
within normal range (my normal range that is) with some water changes
with lower SG than normal. I would like to figure out what these things
are so I can do something to get rid of them. I do remember that the
tomato clown had one of these marks way back, when we first got him
(tank is only like 8 months old). It went away and I put it off to
maybe he scratched himself on something and it left a mark, then healed
up...guessing I was way wrong. I would try to get a pix but I don't
think they would show well as they are sort of clearish, plus I don't
think you can open the pix I send, as I tried once before. If these
things ring a bell with you, an ID would be great, if not, could steer
me in some direction as to what they MAY be I can try to do some more
research, and possibly try to match up a picture off the web of what it
may be. As usual, thanks a ton for taking the time to
read/reply. This site is an invaluable tool - thanks for sharing you
knowledge... Jan <Well, Jan, I'm thinking that you may be seeing
some form of monogenetic trematode, such as Benedina or other little
nasties...Just a guess. Typically, external parasites, flukes, and worms
can be knocked out with long-duration (like 30-60 minutes) of
Formalin-based remedies (at a bout 200mg/l concentration in saltwater).
Net the affected fishes and place them in a dedicated container for the
treatment. Worth a shot, IMO. Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F>
What's in Fluke Tabs? Hi Chuck! I bought the Fluke tabs. Do you
know what are the active ingredients? It's not written on the product.
Thanks! Dominique <The active ingredients are Mebendazole and
Trichlorfon.-Chuck>
Praziquantel Also Bob, I am wondering if you can help me.
We have some incident of trematodes in our system. These worm/fluke
is in the fish and when we fresh water dip the fish, the worm came
off from the fish. Some people I talk to say to treat with
Praziquantel or PraziPro from Hikari. Do you have any info as far
as treating the entire system with PraziPro (side effect, other
problems etc). Thank you, Fred <Ah, yes. For trematodes,
treating their systems as well as fish livestock, 2 to 10 mg
Praziquantel/liter (or 7.6 mg/gallon)... the lower does for
Monogeneans will do it, the higher for digenes. There are also
methods (not applicable here) for injection and oral administration,
baths... Cheers, Bob Fenner> Re: Praziquantel Thanks
Bob, what about PraziPro? Is it safe? <Yes... is just
Praziquantel and a stabilizing agent:
http://www.uskoi.com/prazipro.htm> I know it is a lot more
expensive but no need to dilute. <Agreed> I heard you need
to dilute Praziquantel with Vodka? <Heeee! Can use this
solvent... or not> Also, how can you tell the difference between
Monogeneans and digenes. Thank you, Fred <Mmm, sorry for
the added confusion. I would not worry re the digenetic
trematodes... they can/will perish along with the rest or die out
quickly enough due to the lack of intermediate hosts (Di as in
two... two or more other life forms to pass through before getting
to their determinate host (your fishes)...), as opposed to Monogenes
that have a direct life cycle. Bob Fenner> |
Cloudy eye on yellow tang Quick question I hope you can answer
for me <Will try> I purchased a yellow tang about 2 weeks ago
and after several days he developed a cloudy looking eye with a small
bubble on it. Some of his fins also seemed a little torn. I first
thought it was due to new rocks I added causing him to injure himself
<More likely poor, diminished water quality... perhaps related to the
new rock> however I asked the man at the store and he told me to dip
him in freshwater which I did. When I dipped him little white "discs"
fell off of him. <Good observation> He looks a little better
now but I'm not sure what else I should do. Your help would be
appreciated ! The water has been tested and is perfect in all
aspects. The only other fish are 2 clown fish . I also have 6 snails
and am purchasing a cleaner shrimp today. I feed them pellet crumbles
and occasionally dried seaweed. Thank You <Wish you had a small
power microscope... could look at these discs, maybe send a pic along...
Very likely what you observed was flukes of some sort... You can read re
these, their avoidance, treatment on WWM... use the search tool there,
the indices. Bob Fenner>
DTHP Dear Robert,
Read your web article about DTHP. Where can I get this material
<Is sold as such, by itself and in concert with other materials for
pet-fish use in various products... mainly labeled as Masoten, Dylox...
see a LFS re if you're looking to treat small volumes. We can chat if
this is for thousands, much more volume.> and have you heard of it
being used against Gyrodactylus? <Yes... you can see this through a
literature search... the most recent work of Ed Noga, Nelson Herwig...
Bob Fenner> Steve 
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Sick French Angel, coral beauty dead ... flukes? - 03/12/2006 At
the beginning, I had an adult coral beauty; snow flake eel, 6"; French
Angel, 4"; Flame Hawk, 2". The disease appears to start on the sides of
the fish, then one eye becomes opaque and swollen, weight loss despite
good eating habits, fins become frayed and finally, in the case of the
coral beauty, death. Now a month later and my French Angel is under the
same attack. The ill fish swims constantly against the current (my
guess is that whatever it is, it is also attacking the gills. Any ideas
what this is? Suggested treatments? Non-angel population seems fine.
| <This last is an important clue...> Thanks, Bob <...
frightening... Could be a few things, but you'll need to make a
microscopic examination to be sure. I suspect trematodes here... A gill
and body scraping of mucus... with or w/o staining. You can read re
their treatment on WWM. Bob Fenner> Sick Lionfish, incl.
Monogenetic Trematodes 03/07/06 Dear Bob, <Chris>
Lately my lionfish has suffered from monogenes ( the worms that move
around the fish and cause cloudy eyes....looks like ick) <Yes....
trematodes... direct lifecycle types... can be real trouble...> I
didn't know what they were until it was too late because the lionfish
was not scratching and it continued to eat like a pig. <For others,
and highly unlikely for the last time, a/the simple pH-adjusted FW
bath/dips that have been advocated for so dang long, will/would take
care of these flatworms... Dang! Okay.> I attempted to feed it
medicated food several occasions however it didn't seem to cure whatever
was growing on the fish.. I didn't learn what it was until my friend
pointed it out and called em monogenes. That night that he came over my
lion had stopped eating.. So I gave him a 4 minute freshwater dip and
then placed him into a 50gallon breeder tank with no substrate and
medicated water with Copper Safe and Formalin 2. I did the formalin 2
for 3 days and I didn't see a whole lot of improvement <Might have
been too late by then> and then I followed up with three days of
Tetracycline and 3 days of half dose of Maracyn. The fishes eyes cleared
up and improved 98% and the monogenes all seemed to fall off. <Oh!
Good!> The fish has been in the quarantine tank for roughly 10days..
The tail that had tail rot seemed to stopped rotting and it seem to
remain the same size. I saw the same conditions on Saturday. The
tail looked like it wasn't getting worse and the eyes looked pretty
clear. However the fish hasn't ate for 14 days. So I decided maybe if I
move the fish back into the main tank <...? Is this a/the source of
the Trematodes?> it would start to eat and heal up. I noticed that
when I caught the fish he gave me a hard time catching him and when I
placed him in the main tank its tail looked much worse then it looked on
Saturday however prior to catching it the tail seemed to be the same as
it looked on Saturday. Overall the rest of the body is in great shape.
Its a 14 inch lionfish and it has a huge home to live in. The tank he
resides in is 240 gallon tank. I know you say the best way to get rid of
a bacterial problem is to have stable water. <Generally, yes...
Given the animal/s are "strong enough" otherwise> My water in my
main tank is testing just fine right now. Was I right for moving him
into back into the main tank? <Doesn't read like you had much
choice> What is the best way to win over a bacterial infection and
to get a fish to start eating again seeing the situation that I am in
now? Sincerely, Christopher Faiola <IF the animal can be
made to eat, eats, to "sneak" a broad-spectrum gram negative antibiotic
into its food would be my choice here. If not, to make a bath of this,
in concentration, and soak the fish in it for ten, fifteen minutes (with
aeration). Bob Fenner>
Re: PB tang parasite? 1/31/07 Thanks Bob,
I've adjusted his diet to get him eating more Nori than mysis, and
he's taking to it. I did a 2 gal water change using clean water
from my main tank and didn't add anything back in because he seems
to slowly be getting better. Any idea what kind of parasite this
is? Here's another pic. Thanks again <Would take
a scraping and a look/see under a dissection scope, but my guess is
on monogenetic fluke/s of some sort... Hence the "de-wormer" rec. Do
give this a read-over and consideration. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Localized fading skin color from parasites and L. amboinensis
behavior... Flukes? 9/26/07 Aloha, <Howzit?> I have
recently transplanted to the mainland from Hawaii. I mailed my little
family of fish (kept for 2-3 years previously) to our current
continental location. They were in a FO tank without live anything
except the bacterial additive I used to set them up initially. As you
know, Hawaii has very strict laws regulating the keeping of live rock or
live sand, etc. <Ah, yes> Now, my current set up is FOWLR and
some inverts. 46 gal bowfront (running for 3 months) Remora C HOT
skimmer 9 watt UV sterilizer Emperor 400 with carbon and Poly
Filter (I know it is not the best, but I already had it) Current 96
watt compact fluorescents (10,000 K and actinic blue) 20-30 lbs mixed
live/dead/Tufa rock and fake ornaments (Some of the fish are very
attached to their ornaments and I don't have the heart to take it away)
Thin layer of mixed live and dead sand (approximately .75 inch) Old
inhabitants moved from Hawaii: Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) Pajama
Cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera) Yellow Clown goby (Gobiodon
okinawae) Two ocellaris clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris) Since moving
to the mainland the following are new: Fire fish (Nemateleotris
magnifica) <Mmm... social animals...> 7-9 Peppermint shrimp
(Lysmata rathbunae) One "white antennae" Peppermint (Lysmata
wurdemanni) Two cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) <... will be
some attrition amongst these shrimp with molting...> 25 assorted
snails (Astrea, Nassarius, and Cerith) <Too many...> Live rock and
Tufa rock Water parameters: Specific Gravity 1.0235 Temp. 78
degrees Fahrenheit Ph 8.2 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 0 Ammonia
(unknown. I tested it then realized my kit was for fresh water- time to
get a new kit. I keep both fresh and salt water tanks, but am newest to
marine tanks, as you can tell. I'm assuming the levels are OK since the
fish and inverts are all seemingly happy. <Likely so> Colors are
vibrant and the shrimp produce eggs like crazy. I add iodine for the
shrimps and calcium for the snails. Coralline algae seem to like it too.
<Ah, good> Here's the problem: I sometimes see the Clown Gobi and the
male ocellaris with clear/opaque non-pigmented spots. In the middle of
these "spots" sits a tiny white dot which I am assuming is a parasite.
These dots move around the body of the fish (I don't see them actually
moving, but the next day, they are in a different place on the body of
the fish). Sometimes it is on the tail, and sometimes near the dorsal
fin, etc. Sometimes they are not detectable at all. When the little
white parasite is gone, the color returns to the skin. The fish, so far,
get only one or two dots. Only the ocellaris scratch (the female gets
white dots without the blanching of the skin around the parasite). I
have not observed the parasites on the other fish. The parasites do not
seem to affect the fish in any noticeably negative way. They all eat
well (a variety of flake, Cyclop-eeze, frozen, table shrimp, once in a
great while they get live brine, and Selcon periodically. I am
nervous about this since I am still battling what I think was velvet in
another tank. <Do strictly maintain separate gear... not even wet
hands twixt...> It is now fallow with four snails, a banded coral
shrimp, one hermit crab, and a rock/sand crab stow away (small sand
colored burrowing crab, almost impossible to see unless he moves). The
sole remaining fish survivor is an IndoPacific Sergeant Major damsel
named "Nemo" because he is missing his right fin. Nemo is tough and will
probably recover. He has never stopped eating "like a pig", and seems to
be doing well in quarantine. Sorry for the digression. My questions
are:1) What do you think this parasite is? (it acts most like the
freshwater Chilodonella as described by National Fish Pharmaceuticals
<Mmm, no... you wouldn't be able to see this... Perhaps a trematode... a
Fluke of some sort...> 2) What should I do about it? Will the shrimp
take care of the problem, or should I quarantine and treat the fish and
let the tank go fallow for 2 months? <Mmmm, you could try an
anthelminthic... My fave currently, Prazi... quantel, -pro...> I
would hate to lose these fish too, especially since they are family pets
(all have names), I feel very responsible for them since I am of the
thought that we should treat all the creatures we invite into our homes
with the best care possible. 3) If I need to treat the fish, what should
I use? Copper, Malachite green, something else? Are these medications
too strong for my little fish? <Yes...> I have not seen the
cleaner shrimp "clean" any of the fish. They are relatively new. The
larger cleaner shrimp seems aggressive. He/she will lunge at the fish if
they come too near. (It could be self defense because when I put it in
the tank, it unfortunately landed on the clowns' favorite fake anemone.
Needless to say, the clowns were very upset and proceeded to attack the
shrimp. I had to intervene at this point and "shoo" the shrimp into the
rocks.) It also intimidates the peppermints and has taken over their
favorite "hang out". <Will eventually eat them...> Is this normal
behavior for a grouchy L. amboinensis? <Yes> Should I consider
putting it in with the banded coral shrimp in the "velvet" tank?
<Will likely be eaten there by the CBS> I know banded coral shrimp
can kill other shrimp. I have seen a large one sever the arm off a
smaller one, yet on the web I have seen pictures of banded coral shrimp
and L. amboinensis shrimp living in the same tank. What do you suggest?
<Another or larger system> One other thought. Should I get a cleaner
goby or two? <I do like these...> Or will it suffer the same fate
and get this parasite also? <Perhaps so> Would the small fish in
my tank be more likely to let the cleaner gobies pick at them? <Mmm,
no... not more than the Lysmata spp.> Any guidance would be greatly
appreciated. Mahalo in advance, Lyn <Read re the Prazi... and
consider a larger tank. A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>
Unknown parasite on butterflyfish please help. Flukes? 8/7/07 Hi,
I Have a show size masked Heniochus Butterflyfish in a 225gal fish only.
He has small clear flatworm looking parasites behind his gills and
eating his fins. He is constantly shaking I think trying to shake them
off. What could this be and how do I kill it out of my tank? <Likely
flukes... a pH-adjusted, slightly slower spg bath with formalin should
do it here if this is a digene (has a complex life cycle)...> My
butterfly was in my quarantine tank for a month and a week and showed no
signs of any thing. My quarantine tank is a 110L treated with
Coppersafe. Out of desperation I treated my main tank with copper
<May have to treat all with an organophosphate...> and I have still
had to fresh water dip my fish 3 times and they still keep coming back.
<Need the formalin...> The only other fish I have in there is a
yellow tang and a regal tang and they have never shown any signs of the
parasite. <Many trematodes are quite species specific> I have
turned off my uv sterilizer recently, my skimmer is still running. My
copper in the aquarium is reading 1.5. They look like clear little
flatworms <Ahh!> and are moving around on that fish only mainly
behind his gills and on his fins. they have frayed the ends of all his
fins. Please Help <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Parasite Help... and I mean HELP! Trematode plus infested lg. SW
sys. 7/10/07 Hi guys Great site! This is my first
question to your site, I feel need some professional help. My
blue face angel is sick, and Am not sure how to fix him. My Tank
Stats: First of all, I am writing from Australia. It is 10x2x2 ft
and has been set up for over four years now. Am a tang lover and I
have five tangs in there at the moment which are Blue Regal,
Sailfin, Purple, Yellow and Lipstick. I also have an Eiblii Angel,
Flame Angel, Premnas clown, three Zebra Darts, four Pyjama
Cardinals, Marine Betta, a Blue Spot Sting Ray and of course, the
Blue Face Angel. I do natural sea water changes of approximately 300
litres every two to three weeks. <Mmm, we should review your
protocol for the treatment, storage of the natural water...> I've
tested temp, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, KH and all are
fine except nitrate at about 10 ppm. The angel has been in the
tank now for about three weeks and he was not quarantined (I know,
my bad). When he first went into the tank he had a slightly cloudy
eye and was scratching on one side, right near the gill. After a few
days the cloudy eye seemed to clear and I thought he was on the
mend. Then (about a week and a half ago) I added the Flame Angel
who did and still seems healthy. The cloudy eye then got worse
on the Blue Face and I also noticed a small wound near the anal fin
(see attached). The tangs also started to scratch and have been
acting strangely, huddling in a corner of the tank. I cant see any
white spot on them however I have noticed the Yellow Tang has a few
missing bits out of his side fin and the Sailfin has some scratches
from the rocks. These fish have been healthy for years. All fish are
eating normally. I was advised by a local it could be flukes and
to give the Blue Face a fresh water bath with RO water (temperature
and PH adjusted) which I did for about two minutes and in the water
I found these clear little things which seemed to fall off him (see
attached). They kind of look like scales or like a little contact
lenses with three circles on them. Are these a parasite?
<Yes... the organism pictured at the tip of the pen appears to be a
Fluke... and trouble... you need to determine whether this is a
mono- or digenean (for means of figuring out whether the life cycle
can be easily broken), and if a Monogenean, whether it is ovi- or
vivi-parous... By microscopic view of the rear attachment organ (the
opisthoraptor)... the one shown is inverted... To get a general idea
of how to proceed treatment wise. Small flukes can be dislodged via
such FW dips, w/ or w/o ancillary materials added... Larger species
of Monogeneans can be very tough to dislodge... require extended,
high-concentration baths of formalin (e.g. 400 ppm) and many
species, weakened individuals can't take this... Skipping ahead...
as am sure you realize the extent of the non-quarantine blunder here
by now... you may be lucky and get away with use of an
organophosphate treatment here period... Many flukes are to degrees
species, genus, family specific in their host selection...> Would
this be the cause of the scratching, cloudy eye and would the other
fish have it? <Possibly, but you may well have a mixed species
parasitic situation... and yes, possibly> How can I get rid of
it, as I don't have a quarantine tank anymore? <You don't need a
QT, you need a treatment system... but as your main system is
infested, you will likely want to treat it... Not a pleasant
prospect...> If I kill them off the fish, are they still living
in the water and will they just re-infect? <Bingo> Id be happy
to treat the main tank with something as long as it doesn't kill my
sting ray and bubble tip anemones. <...> Any advice and help
would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the essay, but am trying to
give you as much info as I can. Thanks Brett & Leanne <My
friend... Quarantine... use it, believe in it, live it... You have
some trying times ahead. Cartilaginous fishes do not "like"
acetylcholinesterase inhibitors... I don't know exactly where to
start or continue with you here... IF you had time I'd have you buy
and peruse Ed Noga's "Fish Disease, Diagnosis & Treatment", get/use
a cheap microscope (likely the QX product line would do here)... But
your fishes may be all dead by then (a few days to weeks)... At this
point, do look around the Net, your large local library, WWM under
the terms: "Flukes", "Trematodes", "Organophosphate" treatments...
Bob Fenner> | .jpg)
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Coppering White Face Tang.( Acanthurus japonicus). Crypt... And
flukes... 10/23/07 Last Monday I purchased what
appeared to be a healthy, eating and active white face tang from my LFS.
After bringing him home, giving a FW dip with Methylene blue,
acclimating and placing in my QT. I noticed a small thread like thing
hanging from his fin. I believe this was an anchor worm. <Mmm>
Over the next four days I did 2 more FW dips (I always use Methylene
blue). The worm never detached. But I did notice a few small critters in
the rinse container afterwards. I've got pics of these and will attach
them for you. I was able to view them through my handy dandy kiddy CSI
lab microscope at 200 mag. <Neat!> Even able to get a pic through
the microscope with my wife's digital camera on macro setting. Kinda
neat to see. I'll post it also. But these aren't really the subject of
my question, as Friday afternoon I noticed the spots indicative of ick.
I began coppering Saturday morning. Using Cupramine. I am now up to the
recommended .50 ppm dosage and want to be sure I do this delicate fish
right. Is this what dosage you would suggest for this fish with this
product? <For this product, how the active ingredient is measured,
this is about right> Or do I need to lower it down? I noticed
somewhere here you recommended a lower dosage? But with Cupramine? The
directions say .50. <Keep it near this... measure at least daily>
I brought that up over 48 hours as directed. Also I though I saw where
you recommended not using continuous copper on this fish. <Yes...
there are other/better medicants to use on/with Acanthuroids> Does
that mean only with baths? <Another viable approach, yes> Or can I
continue with the 14 day treatment as indicated? <You can... will be
debilitating> I would like to actually remove the fish as soon as
possible from the QT to the DT. Not in a rush here, but trying to do the
right thing and limit exposure. As well as guaranteeing an Ick free DT.
I do not want to go down that road again! I'll do whatever it takes to
guarantee my 125 and 65 stays ick free. But If I treated the powder
brown for 7 days and then removed him and placed it in the 125. Would
that cover my bases here. <I would at least add a pH adjusted FW and
Formalin dip/bath twixt the QT/TT and DT here> It seems to me I would
be killing any ick that are free swimming (I forget the term). Trying to
attach now. So in 7 days then all ick would have dropped off and not
allowed to attach again. Thereby assuring a properly timed "transfer".
Of course I'll continue the treatment of the QT for the duration to
guarantee its safe for the next addition. If this looks like a viable
option, I would like to use it. But wont risk the infestation of the
125. If its OK to treat it for the 14 days and this isn't a viable
option, I'll continue this coarse. <course> Thank You so very much
for your help. You site has been an incredible contribution to my
success in this hobby. Charlie Bunch <In the meanwhile I'd read
re the causative organism, it's treatment... Here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm and the many linked files
above. Bob Fenner> |
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Flukes (and success with a Sweetlips!) Hi Bob, Happy new year,
sorry to bother you so early, but I have a question. My Red Sea regal
angel, for some time now I have noticed that every now and then gets
some, splinter like white things from it's body, Sometimes from the
head, or body. They stay on for about two days or sometimes as the day
progresses they disappear. I didn't worry about it because the fish
continues to be the beauty of the display. Normal behavior and eating as
usual. Is there a cure for this, how can I treat it and will it
eventually kill the fish. <Mmm, perhaps this is a trematode... I
would try a facultative cleaner here... first a Lysmata species of
shrimp... not likely to kill the fish outright (the flukes), but
debilitating, perhaps disfiguring just the same...> I was on the WWM
last night and that how I kind of determined the fish as flukes. Please
offer advice this is my most prized fish. Also, can adding copper to a
system cause a fish to stop eating or not as much as before.
<Absolutely... copper cancels much of "smell, taste" sensations> I
added copper to my quarantine tank, which has a Sweetlips and Kole tang
for ick. The Kole tang still eats, but the Sweetlips has stopped.
<Yikes... Sweetlips aren't easily kept... as you know from looking over
WWM no doubt... not good that yours has ceased feeding... would move it
ASAP to a non-coppered, less-stressful setting> He will put food in
his mouth but not swallow. The ick has cleared it's been about 7 days
now, do you think I should add carbon back to the system or do a water
change. I think the copper has curbed his appetite. Thanks for the
advice, Bob and hope all is well. Gillian <Much to "judge" in the way
of presumed benefits/risks in our hobbies... Bob Fenner>Re: Flukes
So Bob, you're saying there is a possibility that the Sweetlips may not
eat again. <Unfortunately, this is the common plight:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/haemulid.htm> I will remove the copper at
once. Is there any way to totally get rid of flukes on the regal angel.
<Hopefully this is a digenetic species, needing an intermediate host
species or two... and will "cycle out" on its own... otherwise the
Cleaner may eradicate it> What about good water quality. I have some
cleaner shrimp, but they are lazy, they hide when the fish go next to
them. I don't think they'll help. To me the flukes appear to be
internal, when they pop through the skin of the fish. Are there any
other treatment options for flukes. What do you mean when you say the
fish will debilitated. I don't want this Bob, help me Thanks <Not
likely "popping out, through"... there are some chemical treatments, but
I would try another cleaner... maybe a Labropsis wrasse... Bob Fenner> |
Re: Digenetic Flukes (Metacercaria)? Steven, I found this info.
If this is it should I not put the fish in my main tank and instead take
him back to the store? <I would not put him back in your main tank,
but I am not sure what is wrong with your fish, yet.> Digenetic
Flukes (Metacercaria): Typically seen in newly imported fish and in two
forms. Black spot is caught from snails that release the Cercaria.
Larval forms penetrate the skin and encyst in the tissue and may be seen
as red or black nodules. If eaten by a bird for instance they then
develop into adults. Sanguinicola disease passes from fish to snail and
then back as minute worms that live in the fishes bloodstream. There
they lay eggs that block up the blood vessels which in turn causes
Necrosis. As far as I know there is still no cure for this problem.
<I am not sure this is your (your fish's) problem. -Steven Pro>
Flukes? 2/25/03 Hi!<Hey Steve! Phil here!> I think my fish have
flukes.<Oh no.. not good.> They get white things on them, Head & sides.
I give them a fresh water dip & see these white things stretch out like
worms & jump off. I have already lost most fish. they start hiding &
breathing hard & die. I think I will lose my last few fish. What I'm
wondering is how long I should Leave the tank empty to get rid of them?
Will they get on shrimp, crabs or starfish?<These guys are fine.> Thank
you! Steve<Well Steve.. I'm glad your dipping your fish in fresh
water. But you can't add them back to the main tank right away! Then
need to be placed in a hospital tank for at least 4 weeks. The main
tank MUST run w/o fish for this amount of time so these fluke-like
creatures die off. Remember to place all new livestock/live rock in a
hospital tank for at least 4 weeks also to stop any viruses from
entering your main tank!! Hope this helps and good luck! Phil>
Grab Bag of Parasites? Please help with the following
questions... <Sure thing! Scott F. here again today> - When it
says 'will kill invertebrates' on copper medication, does that
include shrimp, snails and crabs? <precisely> - Is copper also
good for flukes? <I prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...>
- What are ectoparasites? (Ich? Flukes? Velvet?) <Consult the WWM
site for specific forms> - One of the remedies to get rid of
parasites is to lower salinity to 15ppm. Will that also kill flukes
and velvet? How safe is this on corals, snails, crabs and shrimp?
<Hyposalinity treatment can work for some parasitic diseases...I'm
not a huge fan of it. It can be harmful to inverts> - Will the
banded coral shrimp also 'eat' ich and velvet and flukes from fish?
Would this plus UV sterilizer be a good alternative to using
medications? <The CBS will pick at some parasites...but it cannot
get them all. A UV sterilizer is good at possibly stopping some of
the parasites when they are free-swimming...I still use meds...>
- Finally, in one of my 20g tanks, I'd like to keep one Banded Coral
Shrimp and one Harlequin Shrimp. Will they be ok with each other?
Will they be ok with reefs? <They should be fine with
corals...But there may be some aggression between the two...Be
prepared to move somebody> As always, huge, huge thanks for your
help. Luke <A pleasure, Luke! That's why we're here! Regards,
Scott F>No Meds In A Display Tank! > <Sure thing! Scott
F. here again today> > - Is copper also good for flukes? > <I
prefer Formalin-based remedies for flukes...> I've heard that
Formalin is a big no-no in marine and reef tanks (hard on corals,
will kill bio filtration, will kill live rock). No? Thank you,
Luke <You are absolutely right Luke. Under no circumstances
would you ever dose this, or any other medication in a display
tank. Formalin should be administered only in a controlled
environment such as a "hospital tank." It is highly effective
against flukes, however. Follow manufacturer's instructions to the
letter when you use this stuff. Good luck! Scott F.>
Formalin Works-But What About The Display Tank? (Flukes)
Right, but flukes lay eggs that get deeply into the gravel sometimes
(making them so hard to cure). So even if one does treat the fish in
separate tank, you're still going to have flukes in the main tank,
no? Thank you. <Well, the approach to many parasitic infestations
is to deprive them of their hosts...Thus, the oft-recommended
"fallow tank" technique is an efficient, drug free way to help
eradicate parasites. No method is 100%, but this is a very effective
method. Good luck! Scott F> |
Is This
Treatment A Fluke? (Use of Praziquantel To Combat Flukes) Is
Praziquantel (Droncit) effective for flukes in marine fish? <This
stuff has been used by some people to treat flukes effectively. It
should be administered carefully, like any medication> How does it
affect inverts? What would be the right dosage to get rid of gill and
body flukes? <I would not administer this, or any medication in the
display tank, regardless of the presence of inverts. The dosage that I
have seen used to combat flukes is 1ppm in saltwater. I know a couple of
people who swear by the stuff...Have not used it personally, however.>
I hope it still works in marine aquarium and is easy on the inverts...
It's magical in FW, no stress on fish, ok for bio-filtration etc...
Thanks, Luke <Well, Luke- Praziquantel is certainly something that is
being used more and more these days to combat flukes in marine fish. You
could also use Formalin-based medications, or those containing Malachite
Green...It's worth a shot, however, if you're up to trying it...Good
luck! Regards, Scott F> Wholesale fish to UK and fish gill
flukes 6/18/03 Dear Anthony, <cheers, my friend> Just to
let you know, I received my fish yesterday. I acclimatized them as I
described and yesterday the fish were not looking too good. <common
for transshipped specimens... often no worries> This morning however,
all the fish are up and swimming around and most are feeding already,
which I am very pleased about. <excellent to hear> 1 was sent a
cream angel, which was DOA, <a lovely but fragile fish indeed> the
2 convict tangs were large, one DOA the other was in a bad state but has
settled well. The clown/Pyjama tangs are doing well, a tad aggressive
but not hurting anything. <heehee... typical... bullies> the
powder blue tangs are very good, around 5", very full body and bright in
colour. the other fish I received were Scott's fairy wrasse. these are
doing very well, lovely little fish. <quite challenging to keep...
requires a very high quality diet. And likely a tank with no tangs,
clowns, damsels or active/aggressive feeders> I was wondering if I
could ask your advice again? <always welcome my friend> in another
tank I have an Addis butterfly, gold ring butterfly, Auriga butterfly
and a baby epaulette shark. <interesting> I have noticed the
butterflies have been flicking their heads against the rock work and
shaking a lot. <yes... AKA "glancing". Indicative of gill irritation.
Most often caused by water quality or actual parasites on the gills as
you would expect> I have treated with various treatments as I am sure
that it is a parasite/flukes. <quite commonly> I have used Myxazin
(don't know if you have it over there-it is a Waterlife product),
removed the fish and tried copper, and now have resulted in MelaFix.
<I can assure you that Melafix is a complete waste of time/money if they
are flukes. > can you suggest any other treatment other than a
freshwater dip (as I am not confident enough to carry this out-I know
it is easy and have done it before but I don't like doing it) the main
problem is the shark and I don't want this to spread as I want to add
some of my stock to the tanks once conditioned. the Addis butterfly (my
pride and joy) has scraped against the decor so hard that it has broken
the scales and they are reddening. <do consider a Formalin
treatment... long bath on the tank or stronger dose in a dip. Methylene
blue may be added cautiously/judiciously> this is my favourite fish
and was difficult to obtain. other than this there are no other external
signs on the fish. Any suggestions would be gratefully received! <the
shark really jams things up here... it is sensitive to metals and
organic dyes as well as lower salinity which all would help your primary
treatment with Formalin. It would be best to remove the shark for a 4
week isolation period... unless this tank is not bare bottomed in which
case it should not be medicated at all. Leave the shark and pull all
others to QT> thanks again, and I hope you can answer, thank you for
giving up your time. Regards, Sam Baker <best of luck, my friend!
Anthony> - Parasitic Flatworms - Hi all! Thanks for
the prompt response on the last email. On your suggestion I dipped the
Purple Firefish (the only one with a visible fluke-worm-thing) however I
have a sneaking suspicion that you meant for me to dip ALL my fish. Is
this the case? <Yes, I would dip all the fish, just to be safe.> Just
the Firefish took me three days and a minor re-aquascaping to capture
and dip. And the blenny and wrasse will probably be more difficult. At
least the clownfish will be easy. It was stated in the response that I
may end up dipping quite often, is there some other way? <To deal with
the parasites, not really. To make fish capture easier, I would
partially drain the tank, will make it much easier to catch the fish.> I
had intended to add a pair of neon gobies as soon as I could find and
quarantine some, would this help? <No, the gobies will likely do nothing
to affect this problem, and may even succumb to it themselves.> And will
the 6-line I already have be some assistance? <Probably not.> How should
this affect my continued stocking? <I would stop adding any new
livestock for the moment, procure a quarantine tank or two and be more
careful in the future when you add livestock.> Finally, are the "fluke"
and "spot" problems one in the same? <Yes.> Thanks in advance for the
additional help. Happy New Year Tony PS- Is there any way to
know which FAQ this will end up in? <Not sure, perhaps here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmdisfaqs.htm > I'd like to read up
on similar problems if I could. <Cheers, J -- >
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