Copperband in a Reef?...Sure! - 07/27/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I was hoping to get a Copperband Butterfly after hearing they eat Aiptasia and because they are so beautiful.
<<Indeed...striking fish>>
My questions are... well I have a reef tank.. so I have many questions.  I read from a few sources that they will eat feather dusters and possibly anemones and I read from your FAQ's that butterflies in general will eat mushrooms and polyp coral.  Will in your opinion a Copperband butterfly eat clams, star polyps, xenia, Acros, Montipora capricornis, Stylophora, LPS, Ricordea, shrimp or starfish?
<<I've kept these fish in varying systems with no problems over the years (have one in my current reef tank) regarding the organisms you've just listed.  They will quickly decimate featherdusters, spaghetti worms, etc....and they will occasionally pick at a clam (though I think this is mostly a case of mistaken identity where the fish goes after a "worm-like" protuberance, or goes for a food item that has drifted inside the clam), but never persistently/causing permanent damage in my experience.  There's always the chance a certain individual will be problematic...but this fish is worth the gamble in my opinion>>
I hate to ask so many detailed and tedious thing so a Y , N or a maybe after each item would suffice as I don’t want to waste TOO much of your time.
<<No worries mate>>
One last thing, I currently have a 4-inch Pacific Sailfin Tang that has been in the tank for a year now.
<<I hope this is a big tank>>
Will the tang pick on the butterfly or do they look different enough.
<<Mmm, is likely the tang won't like the butterfly to start.  But again, in my experience, it's not been a lasting issue with Copperbands and Tangs>>
Thanks for the help.
Adam  
<<Regards, EricR>>

Crustacean Dilemma   7/25/06
Hi!
< Howdy! >
I've heard that a good rule of thumb for stocking levels for marine aquariums is to have no more than 1/2  an inch of fish per gallon.
< That is truly too broad of a generalization to adhere to. What if the fish is also two inches wide? >
What I'm wondering is, does this also apply to crustaceans and other invertebrates, or just fish.
< Yes, crustaceans and invertebrates poop too! But, I still maintain that the appropriate number of inverts and fish is more related to the ability of the biological filtration to handle the load. >
For example, I am planning to set up a 50-gallon reef aquarium and if this rule applies to crustaceans, does that mean I can only have 12 inches of fish and 12 inches of invertebrates?
< What are the fish you are considering? That may have great bearing on what others can be kept, as well as how many. >
Thanks!
< You are welcome! RichardB >

Re-doing tank, mainly reef stocking   03/07/06
Hi,
<Hello there>
Cool site. This is my first email (to this site) so bare with me.
<Heeee! Too cold here to strip down>
I'm re-invigorating my tank after "life" made me neglect it for a year. I have an Oceanic HEX 42 with a PM Hot-1 hang on Protein skimmer with a Rio 800
pump (I tried a number of pumps maxi 1200 but I can't get the same amount of bubbles or quiet running with any other pump I heard the Rio pumps are junk
but if I change the impeller often it seems Ok) Maxi 1200 power head & a Hot magnum hang on canister filter (no carbon just a sponge) Nitrate 10 Nitrite
0 Ammonia 0 Calcium 350 (will raise to 450) Temp 78 -80, Pendent light 175watt 10K, Salinity 1.023 -1.024. From not keeping up with the tank
maintenance (water changes & evaporated water) I lost my Purple Tang & Flame angle and (1) urchin and a number of snails & crabs & lots of green hair
algae I cleaned up. (Won't happen again J ) I purchased a RO unit  (pinnacle 100) replaced impellers & cleaned all pumps water change 25% , Copepod
cultured for a week ( don't know if that was enough  I guess I will see in time) I reorganized the live rock in more of a "U" leaving the opening in
the front of the tank . Moving the rock caused lots debris what wasn't picked by the protein skimmer and canister filer settled to the bottom.
-I guess my main questions are should I suck up the debris from the bottom?
<I would, yes>
      -Is the list below over stocking the tank? It's petty much what I had before my brain lapse.
      -How can I give the copepod count a good Kick ?
<Time going by mainly>
       -Should I add more live sand to help with some of the dye off ?
<I would not>
Thanks………….
Flame Angle small  –new
Purple tang small – new
<This sized, shape tank is really too small for these species>
Fridmani Pseudochromis – existing
Cleaner shrimp -  existing
Peppermint shrimp - new
Blood red shrimp- new
Red sea Star (small)
6 turbo snails – new
12 Banded Trochus –new
12 Bumble bee – new
3 Red foot snails – new (do you have info on these?)
<... I would skip these... Likely a mis-used coldwater species>
1 Tiger Cowry (small)
<Mmm, problematical... not likely to live...>
12 Cerith
6 Scarlet red crabs ( 1 existing)
1 emerald crabs
2 porcelain crabs (cool I had one hitch hiker when I first setup the tank)
<Really require specialized care...>
2 Halloween crab (are they safe ?)
<Not enough>
1 rock sea urchin existing
1 large crab of unknown type ?  existing
<... keep your eye on this. Bob Fenner>

Re: Re-doing tank, mainly stocking   03/07/06
Thanks for the quick response Bob,
<Welcome>
So the Small flame angle is OK but the small Purple tang is NG ?
<Mmm, actually neither>
Halloween crab is - Ciliopagurus strigatus.
<Ah, yes>
the Porcelain Crab - (Petrolisthes sp.) are they filter feeders ?
<For the most part, yes>
I was thinking of getting 2 Hawaiian feather dusters do they eat the same food ? (phytoplankton)
<A mix of phyto-, zoo- plankters and "suspended material" to put it euphemistically. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again

Almost There (Plans For A New System)  - 03/05/06
Hey Yinz,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you tonight!>
I have been planning a 165g (72x24x24) bowfront acrylic FOWLR system for two months now, having spent over $300 in just books alone (yes, TCMA is included!).  It WILL be fish only.
<Good that you have a clear vision!>
Unfortunately, it will have a large bioload (14 fishes with maximum recorded adult lengths all totaling 114" including a One spot Rabbit, a Magnificent Rabbit, a Bicolor Rabbit, an Orange Shoulder Surgeon, an Achilles Surgeon, a Keyhole Angel, a Scribbled Angel, 2 pink spotted Shrimp Gobies, an Arc eye Hawkfish, a Bluethroat Trigger, a Scott's Fairy Wrasse, and I knowingly want to attempt 2 Blue Spot Butterflies.  I have done the research and will add them 2 at a time, after  a 4-week quarantine period in a custom 25g tank, in a predetermined, precise order.
<WOW~~~ I hate to be the proverbial "sugar in the gas tank" here, but that is just way, way, way too many fishes of significant size for this sized aquarium. You have to have room for water in there, you know what I mean? Seriously, I would not even think of attempting this fish load in a tank even twice this size. You really need to eliminate some of these choices from your list. The Rabbitfish can and will reach large sizes, and can become quite "skittish" if cramped. The Orange Shoulder Surgeon is a very large fish, needs LOTS of room, and can become a behavioral problem if it feels overcrowded. Please rethink the stocking plan!>
My aquascaping will be unique and I hope it will diffuse any aggression between my charges.  That is why I now come to you, for I want to make sure my filtration will make their environment as clean and healthy as possible.
<Great filtration is an aid, but it cannot overcome the crowded conditions...>
I was planning on adding 180-200# of live rock (the end total will depend what my aquascaping will allow), with 2" of live sand.  The linear length of the overflow will be just over 30".  The two bulkheads will be 1.5" leading to a custom 80g acrylic sump.  The protein skimmer will be from Bermuda Aquatics (the only way to find the next best design out there is to actually test it, and their customer service has so far been impeccable) turning the tank over 7.5x an hour.  There will be a tray to use Seachem's SeaGel (carbon and phosphate removing mix) in a 180-micron bag before the water reaches the 50g refugium.
<I'm very much in favor of the use of aggressive protein skimming and chemical filtration media. They will definitely aid in maintaining good water quality.>
What type of refugium is best for my large fish load (my most perplexing decision)?  I was leaning toward a 4" live sand bed, unknown amount of live rock, and Chaetomorpha spp. macroalgae filling the remaining space.  What opinions do you have on these three factors?  
<Sounds fine. I'd strongly consider utilizing a lot of macroalgae, such as the aforementioned Chaetomorpha, which, if harvested regularly is an excellent way to help export nutrients.>
How often shall I remove the Chaetomorpha, if at all?
<I'd try to pull weekly, if it's growing.>
I will do a water change of 20g (12%) weekly.  Do you think the tank's LR & LS, and whatever refugium setup you recommend, will be adequate enough to remove the nitrates?
<It can help. Again, the single biggest thing that you can do at this point is to modify the overly-ambitious stocking plan.>
I will have three return pumps running six return lines.  From what I have read, it is best to have the lines go above the in-tank water level with siphon breaks to prevent return pump failures flooding the sump (check valves are apparently not that reliable).
<You got that right!>
Are there any other more-aesthetic non-flooding return line configurations I have not yet come across?
<Consider a manifold system as suggested by Anthony Calfo. It's a very controllable, every safe way to distribute water throughout the tank.>
I will also have two internal box wavemakers for vigorous water movement.
<Nice.>
Other aspects of my prospective system...  Two 200w Ebo-Jager's in the 50g refugium controlled by a Medusa set at 77.5' (I live near Pittsburgh,  PA).  384w Power Compacts lighting the tank and timed.  Unknown wattage over refugium on reverse daylight cycle.  Week-aged (necessary?) R/O water (aerated, pH and temp. adjusted to system's) for replacement water for my weekly water change. I am sincerely thankful to WetWebMedia, and for any information and recommendations you can give me to provide the healthiest and most stable setup for my charges.  I unfortunately have restricted computer access, so I
am unable browse through all of your FAQs without it taking weeks.  So please pardon this article of questions.  I thank you all, again, at WetWebMedia.  I will pass on your vast wealth of information to any aquarist
I come across.  I hope you all know what you are doing for our hobby.  Your help goes beyond comprehension.
     Sincerely, Craig M. Carberry
<Well, Craig- everything sounds great about your system and your prospective husbandry techniques. The only real problem I have is with the stocking list. If you re-work it into something more manageable, your dedication and equipment will ensure success. Do re-think that, continue with your plans, and prepare for success! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Firefish quandary...and a sea hare to boot! Microdesmid sys., reef stkg.  - 3/1/2006
OK, Crew, I thought I'd actually take my LFS at their word, since they've seemed knowledgeable in the past. I'm wondering if I've been mis-informed.
<Every human I've met makes mistakes...>
I have a 55gal system with about 70lbs. LR (just added 12 lbs.) setup as a double wall...kind of like a figure three against the back of the tank to create multiple territories. It has a well established DSB of 4" over a 1" plenum and plenty of snails and sm. hermit crabs. I have 2 Minijet 900s blowing behind the walls so I don't have too much flow for the fish and corals and about 350gph return from my sump, via a SQUID. I did some work for the LFS and they are paying me with fish at cost. I picked up 1 skunk shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 3 peppermint shrimp (wurdemanni..sp.), a pair of 2" ocellaris clownfish, 3--2" "magnificent" firefish gobies, 2 sm. serpent stars, 1 sand sifting star, 1 fireshrimp, 1 very sm. anemone (E. quadricolor... I think...), 1 sand sifting goby, and some silver Xeniids, Sarcophytons, and mushroom anemones. I
haven't picked up the anemone, fireshrimp, or sand sifting goby yet, as we couldn't detach the anemone w/o risking tearing the base and couldn't catch the sand-sifter or fireshrimp at the time. Here are my concerns:  1) I haven't seen the firefish yet (4 days)...except once when one of them came out and was harassed back into the rock by the clowns. Should I be worried?
<Maybe... this is a small world for what you list... too small for microdesmids IME>
2) I was told that the sea hare would stay small and graze on whatever detritus I had yet your site says that they get to 2ft.
<Depends on the species... some are tiny, others huge>
and are obligate red algae eaters...though the animal I have is a pretty green in contrast to the brown of the picture shown on your site...is there an ID problem or should I return the sea hare?
<ID plus...>
3)My wife wants to add a blue, active fish into the system, but is looking at a hippo tang (I'm disinclined... I think that'll be too big, though I can't remember how many inches of fish one can put in a 55gal.)...do you have any other suggestions? Thanks a bunch. Branon.
<Keep reading, studying... you'll soon know. I would be careful (allelopathy) re the mix of cnidarians you list. I do hope/trust you have other tanks available. Bob Fenner>

Stocking/Maintenance - 02/21/06
Hello again Wet Web Media Crew and EricR,
<<Hello Henderson...EricR here>>
Thanks for the advice.
<<Welcome>>
Well for the follow up.  The Indigo Hamlet and the Flame Angel are working out their differences.
<<Ah, very good.>>
The Flame Angel isn't bothering the Indigo Hamlet as much, only a little at feeding time.
<<Not atypical behavior really.>>
Also I think the Marine Betta and the Indigo Hamlet have finally realize that the Christmas Wrasse is just too big for them (well at least the Indigo Hamlet), or the Christmas Wrasse is just too fast for them.
<<Likely the latter.>>
I will continue to keep an close eye the Indigo Hamlet and Marine Betta’s attitude towards the Christmas Wrasse.  I've notice you were a bit confused about my LFS giving me the pink leather coral as a trial base for keeping soft and mushroom corals.
<<Mmm, thought it strange when you said they gave it to you to see if you "were ready" for corals.>>
Well I told him about my tank and the lighting situation.  He suggested that I try this Pink Leather Coral Frag, and let him know how my experience went with it.  He believed that I should be fine with the lighting I have, but I should really think about upgrading the lighting system.
<<Ahh, I see.>>
Well as of now I'm going to go ahead and purchase the Coralife 48in. Aqua light Compact Retrofit w/ 4-65 watt lamps.  Which should give me 260 watts, so that's about 3.4 watts per gallon.  I think that should be enough for mushrooms and soft corals.
<<Hmm, be sure to research each specimen before you add it to the tank, adjusting their location (up/down) to account for differences in requirements.>>
I mean I've read that mushrooms and soft corals don't really and prefer not to have very strong lights, but I've also read that some mushrooms and soft corals love strong lighting.  So I guess I'll be okay right down the middle.
<<Actually...it comes down to the fact that many corals are quite "adaptable" that allows many aquarists to be successful.>>
I'll just do the research on which type of mushrooms and soft corals would be best for the system.
<<Excellent!>>
Do you have any suggestions on which mushrooms or soft coral would be a nice fit for this system?
<<Many of the corallimorphs will do fine in the lower third of your tank.  Though they can live/survive under high light conditions, I've seen them lose their color and turn brown under these conditions.  Be aware that many LPS corals do well/prefer "moderate" lighting.  Many of the commonly referred brain, torch, candy-cane corals would do fine with your lighting selection.  When selecting/placing these, the "reds" tend to like/require less light than the "greens".>>
I'll also take your advice on siphoning out the Cyanobacteria out of the refugium.  Lately I've just been skimming the Cyanobacteria that floats to top off with a brine shrimp net.  Also you said I should get my nitrates around 5 or below.  Well I think with a few more water changes this week and I should have my nitrate problem licked.  You also brought up a good point about the salt mix causing my nitrates to get so high, I don't think it was the salt mix though.  I was using mostly Instant Ocean and the Coralife marine salt mix.
<<Mmm, best to pick on and stick with it...my vote goes to IO.>>
My other LFS said I was doing too many water changes causing the my water to somehow go through another cycle, but I believe it was my tap water source.
<<Indeed...tis common.>>
Is it possible for your tap water to read differently from one area in the house from the next?
<<I wouldn't think so...but I suppose anything is possible.>>
Well I guess for now I'm going to play it safe and buy my water from my LFS until I can afford an RO/Deionization unit.  Once again thank you for your time and help.
<<Very welcome
By the way my name is Henderson... I notice I didn't put my name in the last e-mail.  Well... thanks again.
<<A pleasure to make your acquaintance Henderson.  Regards, EricR>>

Stocking/Research/Incompatibility - 02/18/06
WWM crew,
<<Gary>>
I need help...I have been running a fish only system for about 2 years now, and wanted to make the jump to corals.  I have tried them a few years back with much frustration.  I know my current tank is too small for much, I live in an apartment and don't want to setup anything too large yet.
<<Ok>>
My current tank setup is:
30gal
2x65 power compacts
about 35lbs live rock
4" sand bed with a small plenum
12 Astrea snails
25 blue leg hermits
25 Nassarius Snails
1 b/w stripped damsel (small)
<<This fish will become a real terror.>>
1 yellow bottom blue damsel (small)
1 green Chromis damsel (small)
1 sea cucumber
0,0,0 ammonia, nitrites, phosphates
18 nitrates
<<This isn't too bad for a FO system but I suggest you get this below 5 ppm if you want to have corals/a reef.>>
325 calcium
9 dKH Alk
1.022 gravity @ 79f temp
<<Would like to see this at 1.025>>
I am very good with my husbandry and do a 5gal bi-weekly water change with RO water, check all my levels weekly, and bought a 75gal Remora skimmer that seems to work quite efficiently.
<<Very good>>
I also have 2-100ml bags of Seachem Purigen running in the Penguin filter (I only use for water movement).  My incompatibility stories:  I bought a Peppermint from a store, turned
out to be a camel, and started picking at my 'zoo' frags, so I took him out.
<<You really should research/learn to identify these critters (everything you put in your tank) yourself rather than rely on the store(s) to tell you what they are/if they are compatible.>>
Read articles about Fireworms which I had quite a few large ones,
<<Hmm, wonder what constitutes "large" here?  While a possibility, more likely what you had were common bristle worms...mostly harmless and beneficial.>>
so I got an arrowhead crab, he took care of them, but then started munching on my blue leg hermits.
<<Indeed>>
I don't know what to do with him now, and suspect he ate my (very small) clownfish the same day I bought it. ($20 very quickly down the drain)
<<Why not return it to the store for exchange/credit?>>
My blue leg hermits are also making daily meals of my Nassarius, good thing they were cheep on eBay.
<<Mmm...is my opinion the snails are more beneficial than the hermits.>>
I just want to keep 6 2-3" frag corals and have a few fish swimming
around.  If I take out the arrow, can/should I replace it with another shrimp/crab (I like coral banded shrimp)?
<<Were it me...with this setup...I would replace the arrow crab with a shrimp of the genus Lysmata...either the Skunk Cleaner Shrimp or the Blood Shrimp.>>
I would like another fish for color and movement, but with my small tank size I know the load might be a bit much.  If I can, what would you recommend that would not fight/eat crabs, snails, corals, damsels, etc.? (or get eaten)
<<I suggest you replace the B/W Striped Damsel.  Perhaps with a Centropyge sp. (pygmy) angel.  The Flame Angel (C. loricula) is a beautiful and hardy choice that would fit comfortably in this tank and be able to hold its own with the damsels without posing a threat to your inverts.  There is some risk to corals (mainly SPS), but worth the chance I think.>>
Any advice is much appreciated
Gary
<<Regards, EricR >>

Stocking Suggestions - 02/18/06
Hello to all.
<<Howdy>>
I need some help regarding livestock for my system.
<<Ok>>
It's a 150 with 220lbs of LR, 1" sand base, Euro-Reef skimmer with ozone, 30 gal DSB refugium with Chaetomorpha algae, 10x turnover, and 4x65w PC.  Water params are 0's, PH is 8.4, and salinity is .0125.
<<Do you mean 1.0125?  Way too low in my opinion...better to see 1.025.>>
Current pets: 9 large turbo snails, 24 blue-legged hermits, 3 emerald crabs, 1 fire shrimp, 1 dragon goby, 1 yellow tang, small
colony of yellow polyps, blue mushrooms, and green mushrooms.  Oh, and we have 8 blue-green Chromis nearing the end of their quarantine.
<<cool>>
The wife and I really enjoy our current mix and all of them seem to be thriving as well.  Using Liveaquaria as a basic pictorial reference and guide, I assumed my choices were vast, but having read through tons of FAQ I've realized that "Reef Safe" doesn't mean it will mix well with what we have.
<<Indeed my friend!  Best to do your own research/thinking than to blindly follow what is posted/suggested by those selling the items/livestock.>>
We plan on adding a few more low/moderate light polyps and mushrooms, and as our final addition a flame angel.
<<Ah!  Beautiful little fish...and not necessarily "reef safe" as I'm sure you are aware...>>
I was planning on a six line wrasse, a fridmani, and a bicolor Foxface, but after reading your site the wrasse and Foxface
seem to be bad news for my crusties.
<<No more risky than your (any) tang really.>>
I know that butterflies love polyps, but I've also read that Hemitaurichthys polylepis would be suitable with my current mix.
<<Possibly...H. polylepis (Pyramid Butterflyfish) is a zooplankton feeder.>>
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I'm not asking
for you guys to stock my tank, I just need a little help with which types to consider.
<<Any of the butterflyfish are going to be a risk, but worth investigating is the Hemitaurichthys polylepis you've already mentioned, as well as Forcipiger longirostris, Forcipiger flavissimus, and Chelmon rostratus.>>
One of the aspects about the hobby I enjoy most is the research,
so if you guys could throw a few hints my way I'll take it from there.  One last question - could I add another fire shrimp, would they become a pair or just rivals from not having been added at the same time?
<<Should be fine...but admittedly I have had mixed results when adding more than one of these to a system, even at the same time.>>
Thanks for all your help!
<<Regards, EricR>>

Stocking level/Fish Dinner   2/14/06
Hello Bob, <James today.>
This is my first e-mail to you but I have spent a lot of time reading the information you provide on wetwebmedia.com.  I also purchased your book The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist which I thoroughly enjoyed.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge! <Bob sends his thanks!>
I purchased a 58 gallon Oceanic Reef Ready tank (36x18x21) which will be set up as a reef aquarium.  I am still in the planning process and I would love
it if you could provide me with some feedback. <Sure, you won't like it though.>
The corals I am most interested in keeping are Euphyllia and Xenia but I would like to include a mixture of mushroom anemones, leather corals,
various polyps and two or three giant clams and possibly Fungia. The aquarium will contain 50 to 60 pounds of Walt Smith Fiji live rock.  The
substrate will be a one inch layer of CaribSea Aragamax Select.  I considered using a deep sand bed in the main display tank but I have decided
that I will set up a 15 gallon aquarium (20x10x18) as a refugium with a four to five inch sand bed and Chaetomorpha.  Lighting for the refugium will be
provided by normal fluorescents or power compacts. I am considering two different lighting systems for the main display tank.  
The first system is the Hamilton Technology Deluxe Canopy with 2x96W PC's and a 175W Metal Halide.  The second system is the Current USA Outer Orbit
hood which contains 2x96W PC's and a 150W HQI metal halide.  Do you have a preference between the two?  At this point I am leaning towards the Current
USA system due to the HQI metal halide and I prefer the looks but I don't
want to give up quality. <I'd go with the HQI system but think you will be border line for keeping clams.  If clams are desired I'd be looking at a 250 watt HQI, no need for any supplemental lighting.>
The sump is a 20 gallon aquarium which will contain a micron bag and the original ETS Reef Devil powered by a Rio 2500 for filtration.  I am
considering switching to a ASM Mini skimmer because I don't want to overskim <No such thing as overskimming.>
the system.  I have also considered running the Reef Devil on a part time basis.  What would you prefer here? <The ETS alone will be fine.>
The final issue I would like some feedback on is the fish.  I have a Marine Betta which I have had in FOWLR system for  nine years.  It will be
transferred to the 58 gallon tank and it will be the showcase fish.  I would
also like to add a Sunburst Anthias, <Forget the Anthias, do best in groups and in much larger tanks.>  Longnosed Hawk, Kole Tang, Yellow Clown
Goby and a Neon Cleaner Goby. <Last two will be great snacks for the betta.> Do you think these fish will coexist
peacefully? <No, and your tank is too small for keeping the fish you have in mind.  The betta alone grows to 8", the Kole to 7", the Hawk to 5".> If I had to narrow the list I think I would opt to remove the
Kole Tang or one or both of the gobies as I am worried they may become food
for the Betta or Hawk but I am hoping you will bless the entire list. <No blessings here my friend.  The betta needs to be in a tank by himself or with other fish munchers.  Also does not like bright lighting.  With the size tank you have I'd be looking at fish in the 2" to 4" range.  Redo your list, good rule of thumb is one cubic inch of fish per five gallons of water.>
Thanks in advance for any feedback you provide. <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Kevin Sumida

One More Fish?   2/14/06
Dear WWM Crew,
< Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have been using various websites to get information on saltwater aquariums and I just recently discovered yours. This is absolutely the best resource for information I have seen so far. Anyway, I have been reading quite a bit from your website regarding fish compatibility and it appears that I am very limited to adding new fish due to compatibility issues. Here is what I have.
TANK SIZE
46 gallon all water parameters are normal
FISH
True Percula Clown Fish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Diadema Dottyback, Bicolor Blenny Corals, Anemones, Plants, Etc.
Red Rose Anemone, Metallic Green Torch Coral, Hailmeda
SNAILS (23)
4 Astraea Snails, 3 Cerith Snails, 7 Nassarius Snails, 5 bumblebee Snails, 4 Margarita Snails
SHRIMPS (4)
Coral Banded Shrimp, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, Peppermint Shrimp, Camel Shrimp
CRABS (18)
7 Blue Legged Hermit Crabs, 2 Scarlet Red Hermit Crabs, Zebra Hermit Crab,
Left Handed Hermit Crab, Electric Orange Hermit Crab, Yellow Spotted Hermit
Crab, Rock Crab, Arrow Crab, Emerald Crab
Others Livestock
Lettuce Slug, Red Flame Scallop
Live Sand/Rock
Live Rock 28 pounds (with 12 pounds to be added later; currently being cured)
Live Sand 40 pounds
Everyone is getting along. There's plenty of hiding places for the various shrimps and fish. The Percula, Dottyback and Blenny are all about the same size (1.75 to 2 inches). There is no aggression among these three fishes. The Yellow Watchman Goby is small (less than an inch). It does get harassed by the Dottyback but has learned to hide during the day and swim at night (when the Dottyback is sleeping). I've discovered his hiding place so he
gets plenty of food during feeding time.
I'd like to add more fish, especially a Firefish but from what I've read on your FAQs this is not recommended. I do have lots of hiding spaces so is it possible that a Firefish can survive with a Dottyback in this situation?
<I think you have quite an interesting mix of fishes and inverts so far! My hesitation at adding the Firefish is more about the possible long-term effects of "one more fish" in a system that's pretty full already. I think that the Dottyback may also be a factor, particularly with a Firefish. f pressed to make a recommendation for that "one more fish", I'd be more inclined to recommend another smaller, bottom-dwelling fish, such as another Goby or Blenny. And, I mean a small one...Like one of the Gobiodon species, which reach an inch or less! They'll have low impact on the system from a chemical standpoint, and will not stray into the "territory" of the Dottyback.>
Do you have any recommendations for other types of fishes (e.g., Tangs, Angels, etc.)? Also do you have any recommendations on how many more fishes I can add? Thank you for providing valuable information to saltwater hobbyists
like me. Regards,
Malcolm
<Well, Malcolm- I'd stick to one of the really small Gobies, and I would not add more than one or two. You'll do well to learn the limits of your systems, and the fishes will thank you! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Hardy Reef-Safe Fish - 2/10/2006
Hey.
<<Hello Jon.>>
I have a really general question about reef safe fish that I haven't been able to find an answer to when searching through the posts.  What types/species of HARDY reef safe fish would you recommend for a 55 gallon aquarium?  I've tried a powder brown tang, Achilles tang, and several butterfly and angel fish but have never had much luck.
<<None of those are a good beginner's fish.  Look into clowns, damsels, Basslets and gobies.>>
They always either get ick,
<<Quarantine all new arrivals before introduction to your main tank.>>
stress out because the tank is too small and die, or just get too big.
<<The problem is with the choices and lack of prior research.>>
I want some fish that will live peacefully with others, not bother my corals, and not get too big for my 55 gallon.  I've done ok with clown fish, a blue hippo tang,
<<Gets FAR too big for a 55 gallon, as does any tang.>>
and several types of lionfish.  I no longer have any of
these fish so in a sense I'm starting over and this time would like some advice before killing any more poor unfortunate fish.
<<Do you no longer have these clowns due to death?  I wouldn't think they did too well then...>>
Any suggestions?
<<See above.>>
I was also wondering if a mandarin goby should do ok in a 55 gallon tank.
<<No.>>
I once had two of them.  One quickly killed the other by keeping it cornered at the top of the tank and keeping it from eating.  Strangely it died several months later from what also appeared to be starvation.  It slowly got thinner and thinner until it just died.
<<Sadly, this is the fate of under housed Mandarins.>>
The tank had been up and running for about 3 years, had approximately 100 lbs of live rock, and I have seen various copepods on the glass before.  I thought it would have plenty of food.  Is the tank just too small for one of these fish, or should I try again?
<<The tank is just too small.  It takes an incredible amount of food to keep these fish healthy.  Please pass this time.>>
Thank you in advance
<<Glad to help.  Lisa.>>
Jon

Hardy or hardly a reef tank 02-08-06
I am in the building and planning stages of a 180G aquarium, and- much like a kid in a candy store. I have been torn between what I want as far as the
inhabitants for this system. <Aren't we all?> I am going to have a 29G sump and a separate 29G refugium to both increase water volume and help with the control of waste
nutrients.   From the beginning, I have wanted a lionfish and moray eel, and these are still the two occupants that I wish to build my tank around.
<That will limit your choices.>  I am also
really drawn to the relationship between an anemone and a clown fish, which brings me to my question.   If I were to keep one of the smaller morays and
lionfish, such as a golden tail moray and a radiata lionfish, would it be possible to keep my nitrates low enough to support a bubble tip anemone for a maroon clown?
<Possible only in the short term. As the fish grow, so will the demands placed on you and your tank's filtration.>
  I do realize that I will need to add at least VHO lighting and a very good protein skimmer.   I guess what I am wanting to do is basically a FOWLR with a
few of the hardier invertebrates, I'm just not sure if the bubble tip is hardy enough for this particular setup. <It is not.>  If it is on the borderline of being
possible, can you tell me what I would perhaps need to do or add to the system to make this work?  Thanks in advance for your reply, I enjoy your website and it
has helped immensely is my planning.
<I suggest either forgetting about the anemone or building another tank for it.  That is the only way everyone, including you, will be happy in the long run. Travis>
  Kevin Jackson

Marine livestocking  - 2/4/2006
    Hi.  Great web site.  Have a 120 w/ 70lbs. live rock.  Great filtration, etc.  Have started tank w/pair of maroon yellow stripe clowns.  Going well.  I want to get the following other fish;  not sure of order or whether they are appropriate for 1/2 fish 1/2 reef tank;  Naso tang, purple tang, coral beauty, long nose hawk;  Foxface, orchid Dottyback, a wrasse and a goby.
<... what species?>
  What do you think?  Thanks for your help.  Dave
<Might all go here... do keep your eye on the Maroons for excessive aggression. Bob Fenner>

Euphyllia cristata and Echidna nebulosa  - 2/4/2006
Dear crew,
   <Jessica>
  First of all, if I could thank you once for each time you have already saved me from myself....you would never again hear words that weren't coming from me.  I use this website everyday since I decided to set up a salt water tank.  I have probably logged a thousand hours here, but luckily, no one is counting.  Suffice it to say, "Thanks a million."
   <Welcome>
  On to the questions.  I finally got a 125 up and running, after replacing a cracked panel and plumbing a closed loop, cycling for 5 weeks, all the while curing live rock, and then cycling a little more when I added the rock.  Tank inhabitants and parameters:
  Salinity: 1.023-1.024, depending on whether or not I have topped off for the day, I seem to need about four gallons a day in top off.  pH: 8.3-8.5, again dependent on time.  Total Ammonia: 0.0  Nitrite: 0.0 Nitrate: 0.0 (Controlled with 25 gallon weekly water changes, plus hardly any livestock right now).  Ca: averages 400  Alk: 9-10 dKH.  Phosphate: 0.1 (must be from food for the fish)
  Also, running a 60 gallon sump with protein skimmer, producing about 1/4-1/2 cup every one to two days, some activated carbon, and PolyFilter pads are on hand if necessary.  Judging by the smell when I empty it, the skimmer is performing quite well.  Coming soon, a 20 or 30 gallon upstream fuge, planned to be fed skimmed and filtered water from the sump and gravity drained to the display.
<Sounds good>
Also coming soon: test kits for Iodine/ide, silicates, and dissolved oxygen, mostly because I want them, but some because of what I am about to ask.  Livestock: 5x C. viridis, 1x N. magnicifica and whatever is living inside the ~110 lbs. of live rock (there is also some rubble in the sump).   
  Question 1:  How does this sound for a stocking list?
I would like to add 2x A. ocellaris, 1x Z. flavescens, and 1x V. puellaris for fish, 2x T. crocea clams (in another 6-7 months), and for corals, well, this will be more difficult.
<Fine thus far>
  I know that it is not recommended to mix softies with stonies, however, how dangerous would it really be to have 1x T. peltata (on top of the rocks, center of the tank, under a 175w 14000K MH lamp, the other two lamps are both 175w 10000K), 2x T. geoffroyi (on the substrate in front of the rocks), and then throw some Xenia in the mix?
<Could>
I would like to add the Xenia, also on top of the rocks, at both ends of the aquarium.  I know this stuff grows like crazy, but I have decided I like it, and a tank full of it is ok with me.  The other coral I would like to add is either a E. divisa or E.  cristata, I am not sure which.  This is in a friend's tank, who would like to get rid of it.  I don't know why she has it, but she doesn't want it anymore.  It is
healthy and not causing a problem in her tank, she is just indecisive.  If this coral would be appropriate in this mix, where would be the best place to put it?  
In the rocks, or on the substrate?  
<On the rock, about half way up, maximally exposed to light, current>
I have read that some Euphyllids prefer the substrate, with low flow.
<Really only Catalaphyllia... all others are found on hard substrates in the wild... even Plerogyra... that appear to be on the sand>
This one seems to not have tentacles that come out, so I am thinking the rock would be ok as far as it not jeopardizing other corals (I have watched it all night before, it just deflates, but otherwise seems to do nothing. Also, it seems to eat meaty seafood that is put in her tank, it will "catch it" and the food slowly sinks into the tentacles, but I don't know where it goes from there.)  Can this work?
   <Yes>
  Question 2:  I know a guy who has a 9"-10" E. nebulosa in a 30 gallon tank.  We (me and the guy) both know this won't work.  What I would like to know, is can this eel live happily (or more happily, at least) in a 50 gallon tank?
<Not indefinitely>
  I have one that is 36x18 footprint, and it would at least be better.  I would like to take this eel off this guy's hands, but I don't want it to be as miserable as he looks right now (I suspect he may have some nutrition problems, as well).  If this eel is the only tank inhabitant, can I have him?  He has been known to eat fish, so I don't think I would risk putting anything else in with him, and the lighting for the tank won't support many fancy corals, so I would do FOWLR for him.  If you were me, would you take him?
<... not to keep forever in a fifty>
(Of course, weekly maintenance and the extra expense don't really matter, we have enough aquarium stuff laying around, with the exception of a skimmer, that it won't be hard to outfit, and what is another 50 gallons of water when you
already have about 400 captive gallons?  Just a drop in the bucket!)
   So, I am looking forward to your input as an experienced aquarist.  I am really enjoying my first saltwater tank.  Thanks to you folks at WWM, I haven't QT'd anything that wasn't healthy (not that I have made many purchases anyway), and my tank is already flourishing with coralline growth, the Chromis are growing and beautiful, and Flick, the firefish is a hoot.  What great times these are, huh?   
  Thanks for all you do,
  Jessica Groomer
<Glad to see this positive note, history and attitude! Bob Fenner>

Stocking Levels   1/31/06
Hi again crew, hope all is well! <So far, so good.>  Little question today.  I keep a 45 gallon
with approximately 25 lbs. of Fiji live rock, with a hang-on power filter and skimmer for filtration.  I do about a 20% water change bi-weekly and a 50%
water change every 2 months.  I keep additional carbon in the filter.  Ammonia 0, nitrates 20 ppm, nitrites 0, pH 8.0, and specific gravity ~1.028. <Kind of high on SG isn't it?> Livestock includes a colony of pulsing xenia, very small colony of clove polyps, Hawaiian feather duster, a handful of blue legged hermits, a few turbo snails, a
blood shrimp, an emerald crab, and a colony of four tank raised perculas.   Question is, would adding a fairy OR flasher wrasse and an algae blenny be overkill?  
I wanted one small peaceful fish with striking colors and the blenny to control my ever expanding lawn of green hair algae.  Maybe just one more, or maybe
no more fish? <The flasher wrasse would work, the algae blennies can grow to five inches, might be a bit much.  Consider a Tuxedo Urchin as a means of algae control and to add more diversity. <Also search the Wet Web, keyword "algae control". If your tank is acrylic, forget the urchin as they scratch acrylic easily.> As always, thank you for sharing your wealth of information!  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Danny

Decisions, Decisions – Marine Reef Stocking   1/31/06
Reading over this and other sites, there is conflicting info regarding
Pinktail triggers and Bluethroat being reefsafe,
<I wouldn’t say conflicting info so much as different experiences. Some are event-less (good) while others are downright nasty.  It really varies from individual keeper to keeper. What type of reef do you have? What are the tank mates and so on? Each of these factors makes it hard to compare one experience to the next, not to mention the fish have their own variable personalities. We could also play semantics with this… I doubt your meaning of reef safe is the same as mine, and so on.  I consider these two species fish not to reef-tank-friendly because they are both large and create copious amounts of waste/nutrients – not good for a reef tank. If you choose not to have crustaceans or bivalves, keep hardier noxious soft corals and not things that will tempt the trigger to use as a play toy (SPS and such) your chances with animals will increase. At any rate it is a risk. Though in these two species defense if I HAD to choose a trigger for my reef it would be one of these two as they tend to lean toward the zooplanktivore spectrum for their diet, though as I said this does not mean they won't pass up a shrimp. Bivalve or small fish if the opportunity presents itself.>
part of the blue throat, which blue throat considering 2 diff species follow that name.
<Xanthichthys auromarginatus.>
As in reef safe, I'm seeing sometimes Pinktails being not touching desirable inverts or fish. Only inverts are coral, skunk cleaner, peppermint cleaner,
future maybe a fire shrimp and Linckia, given a slow acclimation.
<The shrimp and seastar are potential victims.>
I'm kind of was getting a better feeling about a rhinecanthus assasi as well?  
<My choice would still be the X. auromarginatus, out of all of these.>
Granted I'm sure any of the triggers would have to be the last livestock added.
<Good.>
Tank is a 6' long 150gallon.  
<Bit small for a Pinktail.>
Other fish are Rusty angel, Kole tang, pajama cardinal,
<Small slow moving fish like this cardinal will not appreciate a large boisterous trigger in the tank.>
cleaner wrasse eats Mysis).
<Your one of the few lucky ones, I still don’t why this fish is even imported.>
And prior to the trigger, in order Banggai cardinal,
<Skip that one.>
p. hepatus, a. japonicus or leucosternon,
<With the trigger in addition to all of the other fish you have this many fish would be overstocking, I would choose one out of these three.>
  Guess you've figured I like tangs by now.  Maybe a p. imperator
<Skip the large angel with the tangs and the trigger already in there, not to mention they aren’t reef friendly wither.>
but that would mean no LPS either.  I'm at a crossroads whether to put a green open brain, Fungia plates, or the emperor.
<I would opt for more inverts, but that’s a personal opinion.>
  Knowing well I can't do both without the angel considering it BUFFET time. The rusty did nip a mushroom once, that I seen but spit it out. Never seen
him try any others after that.
<Another reason to skip the emperor with the centropyge already in the tank.>
I wouldn't' do the emperor and trigger together for sure,
<Oh, that’s good.>
Tank isn't big enough for both.
<Correct.>
May leave out the Acanthurus as well.
<I would.>
I'm guessing back to the learning board..
<Yes keep reading, Adam J.>

Fish Suggestions for 55 reef 1/23/06
Hello folks, Well -- I currently run a 55 Gallon reef tank that, in my opinion and the opinion of others that see it, is a beautiful tank.  The only complaint that I get is "Why don't you have more fish?"  I sort of think the same thing myself.
Here's the breakdown:
CORALS
-Pulsing Xenia
-Zooanthids of various color (yellow, orange, blue, pink/orange, green, etc)
-White clove polyps
-Green star polyps
-1 pink toadstool leather
-Cabbage coral
INVERTEBRATES
-1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata Amboinensis)
-About 10 scarlet hermits
-About 15 Astrea snails
-About 5 Turbo snails
FISH
-1 Coral Beauty
-1 False Percula Clownfish
OTHER
-Miscellaneous orange, red and purple sponges.
-Lots of coralline algae
-Two large crops of Halimeda -- one on each side of the tank
This tank is about 6 years old and has been consistently healthy and happy, with weekly water top offs and bi-weekly 15% water changes.  I'm running a Fluval canister filter and a CPR BakPak hang on skimmer for cleansing/filtration, a CustomSealife PC system with 2x96W 10,000K daylights, 2x65W 7,800K actinics, and moonlights.  I have a SQWD system in place for ample water current.  My parameters are:  pH 8.3, Ammonia, 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Calcium 320ppm (working to raise this), and KH 10dKH.  I supplement 1x per week with Lugol's, calcium, strontium, molybdenum, Coral Vite, Coral Accel, and Iron and Superbuffer dKH (all Kent products, except for Lugol's) at manufacturer recommended dosages.
Hopefully, I did not leave anything out.  So here's my quandary -- I think that I have the capacity to add another fish here.  I'd like to add another fish, but in his old age, my Coral Beauty has become slightly belligerent.  I tried to add two Banggai Cardinals last week that had survived 1 week in quarantine and were perfectly healthy.  The Coral Beauty was doing a small bit of chasing to start with, but seemed then to back off.  Within 1 day, one was dead and the other looked to be acclimating well.  After 3 days, I found the other dead, with obvious signs of being "tagged".  I've been observing my tank now very closely and I'm finding that the Coral Beauty is also chasing the Clownfish about, although the Clownfish will take only so much before turning around and fighting back.  These always end in a stalemate.  So -- though I'd like to add a peaceful fish to the tank, I'm thinking that it will only be killed.  Larger fish wouldn't be appropriate for a tank of my size.  I've got a Falco's Hawkfish in a 29G fish-only that would do well, but he's sure to destroy the cleaner shrimp.  Aside from that, I have one yellow-tailed blue damsel in my 29G that may work, since they are a bit more aggressive, but he picked on the Clownfish when the Clownfish was in the 29G.  As much as I would love to introduce a Royal Gramma or possibly some Firefish, I'm very much afraid that they would be chased to death.  A yellow tang would be gorgeous (I supplement with algae sheets every other day), but alas, my tank is too small.
Any ideas on what type of fish may work in this system?  I'd like a little bit of movement or something that won't just hide in the corner all day.  Am I doomed to having only two fish in this tank until the Coral Beauty move to the big ocean in the sky????
Thanks so much for all the help you've given!  Deb
<Firefish and jawfish are out.  They are too much of a jumping risk with your aggressive coral beauty.  I would suggest a six line wrasse, Basslets, grammas, or more peaceful Pseudochromis.  Any of these should be minimal risk to pick on your clown, but won't take any guff from your Coral beauty.  Watchman or other small gobies or small blennies are likely to be ignored by your coral beauty and would make reasonable choices as well.  One last option is several small schooling fish like green Chromis damsels.  Best Regards. AdamC.>

Tank Cycling/Livestock Additions - 01/20/06
Hi Crew,
<<Hi Tanya>>
Just thought I'd ask your opinion on my new 29g soon-to-be reef tank.
<<Okey dokey>>
It used to be a saltwater FO, but I returned the fish to the store and replaced the substrate with ~35lbs of CaribSea aragonite - is there an easy way to vacuum this without siphoning it out?  
<<Mmm, if this is "sugar-fine" aragonite, and you have good flow, you shouldn't need to vacuum the substrate.
I then added ~45lbs of "cured" premium Fiji LR from Live Aquaria.  
I let it sit in the tank for a week with my Bak-Pak 2 skimmer, heater, small power filter (for mechanical filtration and to house carbon),
<<Clean filter pads/change carbon weekly please.>>
and powerhead.  Do I need another powerhead or is the one enough (Maxi-Jet 400)?
<<I would add more flow...aim for a minimum of 10x the tank's volume.  Add two (or three) more of the MJ 400s and arrange them to produce a random, turbulent flow.>>
I know the rock is "alive" since I'm getting a cup of skimmate a day,
<<Yes...and likely not fully "cured" when you received it.>>
but I can't wait to actually see some life on it.
<<Excited anticipation indeed!>>
Readings are as follows: temp: 78F, sg 1.025, pH 8.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25ppm.  The scarlet leg hermit and few snails (Nerite, cerith, and Nassarius) I had left over from my FO tank have survived so far, so water changes must have kept ammonia levels low enough.  Or they are just super hardy?
<<Likely a result of the water changes/partially cured rock.>>
Anyhow, I'm thinking of turning the lights on starting tomorrow - 1
65W 10,000K PC and 1 65W 50/50 and then waiting another week to make sure readings stay low.
<<Sounds fine>>
Is the next step to add a cleanup crew i.e.. shrimp and another hermit?
<<Can do, yes.>>
Is it preferred to add corals or fish first?
<<Actually, if you have the patience/foresight, let the tank go without either for the next six months and watch/see what develops on the live rock (though even the presence of shrimp/crabs/snails means some life on the rock will be preyed upon)...your tank will be all the better for it in the end.  If you just can't wait, my vote would be to add the corals/inverts, then the fish.>>
I'm hoping to eventually have 2 false perculas, 1 midas blenny, and 1 orchid Dottyback plus various corals.  Also, (warning, dumb question here) when storing water "in the dark", is a dark colored sealed plastic container enough, or does this literally need to be in a closet?  I live in La Jolla and get water from Scripps on occasion.
<<Just a dark-colored and covered container is fine.>>
Thanks in advance, and also for all the information I've found on your website (and of course from TCMA)!
Tanya
<<You're welcome.  EricR>>

Long-range planning for 55G aquarium 01-08-06
I set up my first marine aquarium one month ago. The 55G tank now has no ammonia or nitrites, and the nitrates and pH are good according to my
tracking software. The tank now houses eight small hermit crabs (all less than an inch across), six small Astraea snails, two peppermint shrimp and
three blue devil damsels. I have no real interest in getting corals. I do somewhat like feather duster worms, and I plan to get several ocellaris clownfish so would like the
option to get an anemone for them. (I do realize they don't desperately need one, since my LFS sells only captive-raised clowns, but I'd like to see them
living together.) I do, however, want a starfish. I've spent several hours today perusing your site. My LFS carries chocolate chip starfish, Fromia starfish and I believe I saw Linckias there a while ago. I think it's too early for me to consider adding a starfish, but I definitely want to make sure that I don't put myself into a position where I
can't have one. Would a chocolate chip starfish be likely to eat my crabs and snails? I know it wouldn't do well with an anemone (or to be more precise, the anemone wouldn't survive the starfish!) - would a Fromia leave an anemone alone? The blue Linckia is gorgeous but your site clearly indicates that they rarely
survive, which would be very sad, so I likely will not go that route. I don't want to rush my tank, and it's very important to me that all my
creatures thrive. I'm hoping that you can help me do this. As I said, I have read your FAQs, and haven't seen anything that suggests that my crabs and
snails are at risk, but I'm concerned I've missed something.
<First let me say I am extremely glad to see you are planning your aquarium in advance. I wish everyone would do that. As for your tank, I would start by staying away from anemones. Anemones are very demanding creatures and will limit your choices, not to mention your pocket-book. An anemone would require high quality lighting to survive. The next thing I would like to address is your statement that you would like to have "several" clownfish. I would suggest limiting this to 2 clownfish. Most times a pair will form and kill the outsiders. As for starfish, make sure to research your choices and even look at the substrates they will do best in. Some may need sand or at least small particle sized substrate to survive.>
Many thanks for all the information you make freely available!
<Glad to help, Travis>
Heather

Thanks and stocking question 01-08-06
Dear WWM crew,
<Inna>
I really can not overestimate all the help I got from reading Bob Fenner's book and all the articles posted on WWM. I consider myself very
lucky. I found this site right on time to avoid very big number of mistakes I was just about to make. Also it completely changed my view on
educational and possibly ecological impact of reef keeping. Anyway as you can figure I'm new in saltwater hobby.
Recently I starter setting my very first dream saltwater tank (I have a few freshwater tanks) -a 125 gal beauty!
<Good size for a first tank.>
I have 100 lbs of live rock and 50 lbs more on it's way, 100 lbs of live sand. I have a Euro-Reef skimmer and setting up a refuge in addition to
the "utility" sump, GEN-X pump for circulation (do not remember parameters but it gives me 7X turnaround), 2 AquaClear powerheads with
wave-makers and a canister filter which I'm planning to use as mechanical filter first changing it to different media (carbon,
polyresin) holder with time I'm thinking of building a closed-loop manifold in the near future. Lights are VHO, 48" and I'm planning to make them 1 super actinic, 2
Aquasun and 1 Actinic White. Is this a good chose for a fish-live rock-soft corals system?
<Looks good to me.  I believe you will be happy with it. I am glad to see you planned your tank around your future tank inhabitants.>
I'm still a little confused here I started cycling my tank somewhat 2 month ago with not cured live rock. With all the ammonia spikes my live rock looked not that great.
However, after some time coralline algae started coming up and some little creatures appeared (micro feather-dusters, sort of polyps which I will
ask you to identify when they are big enough to be photographed). Water was very stable last 3 weeks with pH 8.1-8.3, special gravity of 1.023,
<I would raise SG to 1.026>
Ammonia-nitrite-nitrate 0. Temperature 78 F. I see plenty of amphipods (white critters on the glass and around, right?). Some hair algae and
diatoms started growing in my tank some time ago and I added 30 blue-legged crabs and 3 Mexican Turbo snails. They are doing good job.
Parameters stayed fine so I ordered more snails - Nassarius, turbo, and 2 cleaner clams, and a red brittle star and a porcelain crab to keep the
tank neater. I love to watch snails and crustaceans so I'm so very much excited. If they do not have enough food around I will be feeding them.
<You should be placing some food in the tank for them. This will also help with your cycle and bacterial growth.>
I set up a nice 10 gal QT tank. Should I put some live rock there as well?
<No, live rock will limit your medication options. Use PVC parts or Terracotta pots for shelter. They are in expensive and can be tossed after copper is used.>
As I said my tank is planned to be fish-live rock-soft corals.
I'm planning to start getting fish and here I need your advice.
I have list like this in mind : 1 Royal Gramma will come first.
<Move him to last.  They can be very territorial.>
Then Diamond goby or Twin Spot Goby ( which is a better choice?).
<Personal preference.>
Then will come Yellow tang and a Clown fish (Ocellaris) or a mated pair.
<I suggest a pair as their courting behavior is very entertaining. These should also be one of your first additions. They are very hardy fish.>
Next -
Hippo Tang. The last will be a mandarin when I have a good refuge which produce lots of food.
<Plan on waiting a minimum of 1 year.>
I also would like to have a Flame Angel which will come one before last one, but I'm not sure if it's possible to keep them
with soft corals and feather dusters and if stocking will be too tight.
<Flame angels are great fish.>
Please let me know if this is a reasonable plan. Also one question I really can not figure, answer for - should I count
hermits, snails and stars toward bioload or as far as they are cleaners they do not add to bioload?
<There is no need to count them, but do not overload your tank with them as the excess will starve.>
Again, thanks for all your help. You guys are my aquarium guardian angels!
Inna
<Good luck, Travis>

Re-establishing Infauna 01/01/06
Hi, <<Hello-Ted here.>>I recently moved to a new house, and when I  did, I also moved my 29gal saltwater tank with me. It has a CPR  13.5in refugium (about 2 gal), skimmer, charcoal canister  filter, about 20+lbs of live rock, and 10lbs of substrate. The aquarium was up  and running about 2 yrs, had cleaner inverts,  soft corals, fish,  shrimp, who are now with a very happy neighbor who recently got into the  saltwater aquarium hobby.
    The tank and all components were in dry air for about 2 days or  so.  I currently have the water in the tank, properly adjusted and  running for about 2wks. I am going tomorrow to get a few snails to get started again.  I have yet to see any of the pods on the glass, or in the substrate, and all the purple and green bacteria that use to be  on the rocks is gone as well.  I got a few small chunks of live  rock from my LFS, but they've only had their tanks up for about 6 mths, I  was looking for something that would give my aquarium a little more  diversity.  In the previous location, the LFS had very established  tanks (+5yrs up and running) and was able to give me several bags of  substrate from their various tanks that helped me get a great amount of various little live things in my refugium and main tank. However, I have been unable to find any established marine dealers in the local area. Are there any  online products that would give me similar results to a substrate out of established aquarium tanks and refugiums? I have a deep sand bed in the refugium, and plan on getting some macro algae to go in it as  well. I have read a lot about miracle mud, but I was looking for  something with real biodiversity and small live critters in the  "mud."  All I am really looking for is something that would help get my tank back into the "crap, what's that little thing crawling in the refugium, he wasn't there yesterday" mode, without buying more liverock, and no "seeding" material readily available in my local area.
<<Monitor your system and after the tank has gone through it's cycle, add the infauna. Inland Aquatics (www.inlandaquatics.com) and Indo-Pacific Sea Farms (www.ipsf.com) are two good sources for infauna. Also, check around for local hobbyists or hobbyist clubs. Sand exchanges with some locals are excellent way to diversify the life in your system. Good luck - Ted>>

Carefully and Patiently Stocking a Mixed Reef/Invert Tank  12/24/05
Hi again!
<Hello Amanda. This Adam J helping you out tonight.>
Thanks so much for your help last time I wrote.
<I don’t know if it was me or someone else, I don’t remember but on behalf of the WWM crew you are quite welcome.>
The tank is looking great,
<Awesome.>
and once we're back home (California) from the holidays (visiting family now
in Nashville!),
<I to call the Golden State home.>
we're going to start stocking fish, slowly, of course.
<Good.>
I wanted to get your opinion on the fish we're thinking of for our 50 gallon
with 75 lbs of live rock, 60 lbs of 'live' sand with 12 lbs GARF Grunge.
<Sounds good so far.>
The goal is to have a lightly stocked and peaceful, but interesting tank.
We've currently got various hermits and snails (margarita, turbo,
Nassarius), a pipe organ coral, hammer coral, and a red open brain (which
are fed meaty bits several times a week).
<Still sounding good.>
The fish wish list is a pair of
false black percula clowns, a flame angel, and a yellow watchman goby.
<Sounds good but make sure the tank is at least 6 months old (a year would be even better) before adding the angel. And as with any animals, quarantine, quarantine and did I mention quarantine, hehe.>
I'd like to eventually get an anemone - BTA or carpet, but I think we need a
light upgrade for the BTA, and that plus a tank upgrade for the carpet;
we've currently got just about 200 watts PC for this 50 gallon tank.
<Honestly anemones are not great tank mates for sessile invertebrates, they roam and sting. However if you must have an anemone it would not be wise to go for the carpet, grows quite large and will eat your smaller fish like the goby. So if you want an anemone I would only go with a captive propagated bubble tip anemone (E. Quadricolor). As for your lighting it is a bit marginal for the anemone, if you plan on keeping this lighting replace the bulbs every 6 to 9 months for best results.>
I've read some flame angels will nip at soft corals,
<Yes Centropyges in general are a risk in reef aquaria, one that many people are successful with but a risk nonetheless.>
so I worry a little about that, but haven't come across another fish that interests me as much
as the flame angel.
<I understand, amazing fish they are.
I want to err on the small fish side, no tangs for me,
until we can get a much, much bigger tank.
<Kudos to you.>
How does that fish list sound? Any suggestions?
<I would recommend against the anemone but if you have to have one, do lots of research beforehand. If the anemone is for your clowns consider surrogate hosts such as leather corals; like long tentacled Sarcophytons and sinularia.>
I'd love to eventually get a mandarin dragonet,
<Would probably starve in this size tank, unless you set up a VERY large dedicated fishless refugium.>
but want to be sure we have enough little buggers to
support it. The tank is crawling with them now, but I figured a mandarin
would blow through the little guys in just a few weeks.
<Yes.>
I'd hate to see a
fish starved, or beaten up, or anything like that, so I wanted to bounce
these ideas off you.
<In my opinion mandarins are best left in the ocean.>
Thanks in advance for your time, and happy holidays!
<You are welcome, and have a happy holidays and a safe new year.>
Amanda
<Adam J.>

Blenny compatibility question??? Adding fish to a reef  12/17/05
Hey Bob how is it going down there in S.D.
<Fine>
Well my tank has been going for 10 months now. Everything is going good, so far. However I do have a couple of questions. First, for a reminder, my tank is 72”X18”X20” with a 45 gallon sump and 150lbs of live rock. At the 9 month mark I started to add fish. So glad I waited that long before stocking. Currently I have 2 clown gobies, a green one and a yellow one, 1 male Filamented wrasse with 2 females and a Lawnmower blenny. All get along very well, in fact so well the other day the yellow clown goby was perched on the lawnmowers head,
<Heee!>
wish I got a picture of that, too funny. The blenny by the way eats every kind of food I put in the tank. Now I am ready to add a few more fish. I am thinking of adding a pair of Percula clowns and a small Regal “Hippo” tang next week. About a month after that I want to add a Yellow tang and an Orchid Dottyback. Do you think it is wise to add the “Hippo” tang before the Yellow tang or should I be adding them together?
<In this size, type set-up, matters little... I would quarantine both of course>
I also would like to add a Canary blenny into the mix. I am just not sure how the two blennies would do together, especially since the lawnmower has already been in there for a month.
<These should also get along... different niches>
Do you think it will be ok to add a Canary blenny next week with the others I am planning on adding?
<Yes>
One last question. Do you think my fish stock level is about maxed or do I have room for one or two more small fish?
<Should be okay to add, depending on species>
This will be a reef tank. I will be adding corals next month after I get my lighting for Christmas. My little present to me. Thanks in advance, have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a SAFE NEW YEAR.
Cheers, Gary
<Thanks. To you and yours as well. Bob Fenner>

FOWLR or Reef? Stocking and Lighting. 12/1/2005
Hello,
<Hi David.>
I have a 50g Uniquarium, making for about 40g usable.
<I hope you have purchased a protein skimmer.>
The tank is newly cycled with about 15 lbs of LR and 3 damsel fish.
<Did you use the damsels for cycling. If so please don’t use this method again in the future. See here for more detail: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm. Furthermore damsels will make it very hard on future livestock to be “happy.” A friend once said, “If there was a damsel the same size as a great white shark…the shark would be running.”>
I do plan on adding about 15 more lbs of live rock.
<Make sure it is fully cured.>
I currently only have a NO 50/50 fluoro tube for light. The idea is to have a FOWLR tank, but I would like to have an anemone and a clown fish. I would also like to have a dwarf lionfish.
<Well first off an anemone will turn this tank into a reef not a FOWLR. Anemones need pristine reef conditions. They are notoriously short-lived in captivity and have very specific needs. They are not for beginners. Furthermore clownfish DO NOT need them to be happy. The clownfish will however not be happy with a dwarf lion in the tank, though they are dwarfs they are rather large dwarfs generally at around 6 to 8 inches and will make a snack of a clownfish. The lion would also eventually outgrow these quarters.>
Do you think an anemone, a clown fish and a dwarf lionfish will all get along? 
<No.>
Can you recommend which ones I should consider in that combo, like a Tomato or Maroon clownfish, a fuzzy or zebra lion and what sort of anemone perhaps?
<It is possible that a large adult female Maroon could survive in a tank with a fuzzy lion. However both are large and aggressive and as I mentioned above the lion will get quite large. I would wait until you gain a lot of experience with various other animals before thinking about an anemone.>
Also, I asked for LFS for advice regarding Power compact lighting versus T5. I was leaning towards T5, but the LFS guy said he would strongly urge me to go with Power Compacts as he says T5 is very new and "tests well", but in terms of who has actual hands on exp and great results, the numbers are still there for Power Compacts. What do you think?
<It is true that PC’s are used on a much more broader scale than T-5’s, however if I were choosing between the two right now I would choose T-5 High Outputs…no question about it. T-5’s due to there sleek profile can be combined with much more efficient reflectors causing them to easily surpass PC’s as far as lumen output and the bulb is CONSIDERABLY longer.>
Thanks
<Welcome.>
David
<Adam J.>

Sea Cucumber In A Reef Tank? - 11/30/05
Sorry, I can hear the groan from here! Yes it's another fool considering adding a sea cucumber to his reef tank - it seems from reading through some of the FAQs on the subject I'd be better off adding a 3 bar electric heater James Bond style to my tank,( "Shocking..."),but I thought I'd ask any way!
<<Hah! Not at all...I have a couple Holothuria floridiana in my reef...great little detritivores/sand stirrers.>>
A friend has had a yellow cucumber for a while now and it has split
into 2 and he has offered me one of his clones. I am still trying to find out exact species but I suspect it is Colochirus robustus.
<<If a filter-feeder then yes, likely so.>>
How does this species rate on the wipe-out front?
<<Not as bad as many...I would add some to my tank but for my Copperband Butterfly.>>
Also some more information on it's general requirements would be appreciated.
<<Mmm, plenty to eat...lack of aggression from fishes...try a keyword Google search on the net for more detail.>>
One of the FAQ answers seems to be saying that some of the smaller species, of which I think Colochirus robustus is, were not the time bombs their larger cousins are.
<<Indeed...but some consider even the more toxic Holothuria species to become less so over time in the home aquarium.>>
My tank is set up as follows: 5ft by 2ft by 18" tank. 45kg of live rock, 10kg of lava rock - water contents 340 litres after displacement. I have only a cosmetic sprinkling of coral sand on the tank bottom.
<<Mmm...A DSB and/or in-line vegetable refugium would be beneficial to keeping Colochirus robustus...something to consider.>>
Deltec DCE600 skimmer, Fluval 404 external, Rainbow lifeguard fluidized-bed filter, 4 circulation power heads turning over approximately 3500 litres per hour. Tank has been set up for almost 7 months.
SG 1.024
pH 8.2
Phosphate 0.25 mg/l
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 25 mg/l
Ca 450
KH 161.1 ppm
<<I hope that's 16.1...and still a bit high>>
Fish species:
2 Pomacentrus alleni
2 Amphiprion ocellaris
1 Ecsenius midas
1 Neocirrhites armatus
1 Centropyge bicolor
Inverts:
Various red and blue hermits
1 Lysmata amboinensis
1 Stenopus hispidus
Various turbo snails.
Corals/Anemones:
Sinularia sp. (possibly flexilis)
Sarcophyton sp.
Various Zoanthus sp.
1 Condylactis gigantea
Various mushrooms
Any advice appreciated, even if it is of the "don't touch it with a barge pole" variety.
<<Not at all. Do your homework/provide for the welfare of the Colochirus robustus and you too will likely have it reproducing in your system.>>
Thank you for your time.
Bob Mehen.
<<Regards, EricR>>

Large Marine Angels in the Reef Tank (Uh Oh!  I'm Tellin' Mom!)  11/30/3005
Hello Robert,
<Actually Adam J filling in this morning.>
I have a question that I have seen answered several ways and really respect your opinion so I will ask it again. I have a 180 gallon soft coral reef that I am going to break down and move to another part of the house. I will be keeping my pair of true Percs and a pair of blue green Chromis and the rest of my fish and the soft corals will be given away to friends and other good homes. I will be upgrading the lighting (adding two 400 watt 20K MH to my three existing 175 10K MH and PC actinics),
<That’s a lot of heat be sure to keep it ventilated well.>
bigger skimmer (with ozone), and going to an automated RO/DI top off system. I will also be adding a calcium reactor and a 55 gallon refugium to my existing 40 gallon sump (powered by an Iwaki 70 RLT) and will be adding two Tunze powerheads to the tank to ramp up the flow.
<Those all sound like very worthy upgrades.>
This system will be a SPS only reef and the only other invert will be a long tentacle anemone (besides my clean up crew and cleaner shrimps).
<Honestly anemones are best left out of tank will sessile inverts, unless you already have it I would reconsider.>
<<Also, it is not unknown for Pomacanthids to eat anemones.  Marina>>
I want to add a large angel to this tank and am considering three species. My first choice is the Chaetodontoplus meredithi or Queensland yellowtail. I really like this fish and would love to get a pair but realize this may not be possible. My second choice is the flagfin angel, Apolemichthys trimaculatus.
<This second choice is notorious for succumbing to poor chipping and not adapting to captivity in general.>
the other angel I am considering is the majestic, Pomacanthus navarchus.
<This is often a very difficult but “do-able” species care wise.>
Do you think any of these three angels might be a good choice for an SPS reef?
<I have personally seen the last in a reef tank but have not observed the first two. One of these choices can work but it is still a risk. Though recent first hand reports (me talking to other people) have seen this arrangement (large angels in SPS reefs) growing in popularity and working out. The coral itself goes ignored most of the times, though Tridacnid clams (which are commonly kept with SPS) are another story….these angels love to nip at their mantels. While continuing your research in the above specimens I would also look into Genicanthus angels, they are planktivores and in my experience most are good reef citizens.>
I have gotten mostly favorable responses but would really like to know what you think. Also what do you think of my choice of equipment for this tank, am I missing anything?
<You mentioned big skimmer but I didn’t see a brand….I can help you out with that if you would like.>
Thank you for your time and consideration. -Mike Hahn
<You are welcome, Adam J.> 

Stock Exchange! (Compromising On A Stocking Plan)  11/30/05
Hi there,
<Hello there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have an 180 litre aquarium with a wet and dry trickle filter and protein skimmer in a 50 litre sump, with 40kg live rock in the main tank. The tank has been set up since July and I have a 2" Maroon Clown, a cleaner shrimp and a hermit crab so far. After a period of working away from home and not been able to stock the aquarium I am now in a more settled period and I am looking at stocking the tank. My wish list is as follows;
Kole's Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus)
Bicolour Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)
Filamented Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus filamentosus)
Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosa)
Blackback Butterflyfish (Chaetodon melannotus)
Any advice on compatibility and order of addition you have regarding these fish would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris Hames - York, England.
<Well, Chris, here are my thoughts on your stocking plan: In your sized aquarium, I'd be hesitant to recommend the Tang, Butterfly, and Angel, so I'd be inclined to pick one of the three, probably the Kole Tang. If you compromise with other selections, you might be able to get a Coral Beauty in there, but that might be pushing it a bit. The Blenny and the wrasse should be no problem, IMO. Really, the only compromise is with the Butterfly or Tang, as far as I am concerned, and strictly for space reasons. In a larger tank, this is a well thought-out compatible mix of fishes! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.> 

I Need Your Suggestions (Be Careful What you Ask for!) Tell me what I can add  11/13/05
Hello guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 90 gallon tank with a Rena Xp3 canister filter, a Penguin 330 external filter and a skimmer rated for 250 gallons and about 130 pounds of live rock. The tank is about 9 months old, I have 3 red leg hermits, 5 blue leg hermits, 2 brittle stars, 6 margarita snails and 3 turbo snails. I also have 1 devils hand leather about 5" diameter and 2 toadstool leathers both pretty small, a few mushrooms and about 5 small colonies of polyps, 1 BTA and another anemone that I'm not exactly sure of what it is.
<Troubles with mixing more than one anemone... soft and hard corals with it/them>
Fish, I have 2 Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Yellow Watchman Goby and 1 Red Scooter Blenny. My question for you guys is, I would like to add as many small fish as I possibly can without jeopardizing the stability of the tank. What would you suggest, If this where your tank, what else (small fish) would you add? 
Thanks in advance,
Antonio Ovalles
<.... perhaps a grouping of Anthiines, maybe a small jawfish or two... perhaps a type of Gramma, numerous choices in gobies, Blennioids... these are posted over and over on WWM... Bob Fenner>

This Angel is A Holy Terror! (Centropyge in A Reef Tank)  11/9/05
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I've been a long term reader of your website, but never needed to ask a question. You are always very helpful, so hopefully my question can be answered.
<We'll try our best!>
A little background on my tank: 37 gallon tank that is 30" long, 780GPH return pump, 200 GPH spray bar behind 30 lbs of live rock, and about .5" to 1" of fine sand. I have a couple Acropora colonies, as well as many frags of SPS. I have a Hammer Coral, a Xenia, an Open Brain in the substrate, two Digitata frags, one Acropora tenuis frag, along with some others.
<Neat mix for this sized tank..>
I introduced a Flame Angelfish into my tank, about 5 days ago. For 4 days it only picked at little bits of hair algae (I solved the growth problem, but the existing ones were not all harvested out), and the algae on the live rock. I fed it some Formula Two food, but it only picked at a couple pieces, it ate some flake, but definitely not too much. I even fed it and my Clownfish some brine shrimp, and it at that too. Problem is, on the 5th day it ate
all my SPS. By lunchtime, it had cleaned my Digitata clean, they were only skeletons rather than the usual fuzzy look. My open brain's "mantle" was very chewed up, showing green marks on it's pink/red surface where it got nipped. My Xenia retracted itself, looks like it was harmed. My Zoos were all closed. My Acroporas had maybe one or two polyps each open. My Hammer was untouched. Over $300 worth of damage done. I immediately took strawberry
baskets and zip tied them to the top of my tank, submerged of course, putting all my SPS in there. I have to get more baskets to put my LPS and Zoos into.
<Yikes...An all-too-familiar story, in my experience...>
So my question is: Are my SPS just retracted or were they actually eaten?
<Well, in all likelihood, some of the polyps are still intact, "hiding" in the corallites. However, with continued harassment from the Angel, they may not expand regularly, potentially dooming them.>
Will this behavior continue to the point where my corals will die or be very unhealthy? Or, will it give up picking at my SPS and LPS and they will still be able to grow?
<Gosh.. That's a question that simply has no definite answer. I have personally kept certain Centropyge species in reefs for years with no damage at all, but that does not mean that you or anyone else will have such success. For that matter, 3 years from now, my Angel may start plucking polyps from my corals. Maybe I've been lucky-who knows? It is a calculated risk, IMO. I have a friend that keeps a pair of Goldflake Angels in his 350 gallon reef system with tons of expensive SPS. He's had no problems so far, but I wouldn't be surprised to hear that they started tearing up corals at some point. "Conventional Reef Wisdom" indicates that the smaller Centropyge species, such as the "Cherub" (C. argi), "Fisher's Angel" (C. fisheri), or "Flameback Angel" (C. aurantonotus) are "safer". Even then, thee are no guarantees. Fishes are individuals, and may not conform to our behavioral expectations.>
Are all angelfish like this?
<Many do nip at corals to a certain degree. Some are simply foraging on mucus and algae associated with the corals and calms. Nonetheless, these are potential risks that you need to consider.>
Reading I heard it was 50/50 chance of it being reef safe, and my LFS told me they were definitely 99% reef safe.
<Really irresponsible for them to make such an assertion without "qualifying" it by stating that this was THEIR experience with this fish. The Flame is one of the more notorious Centropyge for coral nipping.>
I know being reef safe, they will still nip once in awhile. Do you think it was just exploring and will shape up?
<So hard to say. You'll just have to wait and see. One thing I have noticed is that hobbyists who have succeeded in keeping Centropyge in reef systems have categorically higher success in larger systems (100 gallons plus). Perhaps this is because these tanks afford greater "grazing" opportunities on live rock. Perhaps it's simply that there are more corals to choose from, and the damage to any one specimen is limited by this variety.>
I can't catch it either with a net. Do you have any suggestions? I want to catch it and return it to the LFS unless there is reason that it won't kill my corals.
<Again, no guarantees. You can use a "fish trap", but these fishes can be extremely difficult to extricate from an established tank without completely taking the rockwork apart. Work at night, and be prepared for some frustration.>
Thank you! Art
<My pleasure, Art. Best of luck to you.> 

Stock Exchange (Developing An Acceptable Stocking Plan)  11/8/05
Hi there.
<Hey! Scott F. with you today!>
Just wanted to say that this is a great site. It's so informative that it keeps me from getting my work done. :-) 
<Glad that you like it: sorry about the affect on your productivity!>
In any case, I'm in the process of stocking my 72 gal tank and have been doing quite a bit of research. I also have my quarantine tank cycled and ready for the next addition. After consultation with several aquarists and your site, this is what I've come up with:
Snowflake eel
Longnose Hawkfish
Antennata Lionfish (aka Spotfin Lionfish)
Yellow Tang
Flame Angel
As mentioned before, the tank is 72 gallons with a 5 gallon sump.
<<Five gallons? Dangerous should the pump/s fail... RMF>>
50-60lbs live rock, AquaC Urchin Pro skimmer rated at 90gallons and above. There is currently only 1 very small Damsel in the tank along with 2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimps and 10 Turbo Snails. I know the eel eats shrimps, but on one of the posts Bob mentioned that if you establish the shrimp before addition of the other livestock they have a better chance at staying alive.
<Notice he stated that there is a "better chance"! No real guarantees...>
So here are my questions:
1.Is this an acceptable fish list?
<Your choices would be quite compatible, but I personally think that this is a bit much for a 72 gallon system. The Lion and the Eel are heavy eaters/metabolic waste producers, so I'd be inclined to only add one, and not the other. Personally, I'd go with the Eel. And I'd go with a Flame Hawk over the Longnose Hawk, due largely to the Flame's smaller size. However, both species will potentially decimate your shrimp/snail population. How about a smaller Pseudochromis instead?>
2.What order should I add these fish?
<I'd add the Eel first, and make sure that it is established and eating before introducing other fishes. Then I'd go with the Tang, Angel, and Hawkfish.>
3.Will my turbo snails survive in this setup?
<A real dice roll, IMO.>
If not, what kind of algae cleaner can I keep?
<Well, your Tang will go after some microalgae growth.>
4. Other than the eel what else would eat my shrimp? (Hawkfish I'm
guessing)
<You guessed right. Even my Pseudochromis suggestion carries some potential risk for the smallest shrimps.>
5.What kind of sand sifter/cleaner can I keep? Sandsifting sea
star?
<You could, sure.>
Thanks,
Amir
<Glad to be of service, Amir! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> 

Put Foxface In A Reef Tank?...I Would! - 11/05/05
Hey guys one quick question, I’m restocking my tank as you know from my damsel/flameback problems and am considering a Bicolor Foxface to enter quarantine next (or possible just freshwater dip).
<<Are we talking Siganus uspi? If so I have one of these...great fish in my opinion.>>
I have no experience in keeping a Foxface and am inclined to decline the purchase solely on the possibility it could find my open brain corals tasty.
<<Could...but no more risky than many of the tangs, dwarf-angels, etc., we place in our reef tanks. For what it's worth, I have two open-brain corals in my tank and the Foxface has not bothered either.>>
I understand they are potential coral eaters but I was wondering if you had any personal experience in trying a Foxface in reefs.
<<Yep, as stated currently...and other species in the past.>>
Also you can’t beat the price it was an accidental shipment and my friend is going to give it to me for the cost of the shipping.
<<Sounds like a great deal.>>
Few more semesters of school and I will have my double in Marine Biology and Marine Aquaculture and will join friends in Hawaii working to increase species diversity of marine ornamental aquaculture.
<<Good luck with the project. I just came back from diving off the Big Island...amazing diversity of fish species just a stone's throw from the shore! Do get your face wet (snorkeling/diving) while you are there.>>
They are working on many species of Centropyge and I am excited about the progress being made daily. I’m hoping soon we will all be buying our flame angels from tank bred and raised sources. Thanks again you guys are great!
~Matt Tyree
University of Maine, Orono
School of Marine Sciences
<<Sounds like a great time ahead! Regards, EricR…wishing he were back in HI>>

A New (Very nice) Reef Set-up 11/3/05
Thank you for providing this service. You have probably saved more marine life than Cousteau through your efforts.
<Hehe, thanks for the kind words.....now if I just had that French accent of his I'd have to hide indoors from all the ladies.>
First let me describe my system for you. I have a 90G tank with 125lbs of live rock, below is a custom built refuge/sump. The refuge/sump contains a 10Ga section with Gracilaria being tumbled, another separate 10Ga section with live rock and rubble in which I plan to put clams, a third section of 3Ga in which I am growing pods, and a final section which operates as a sump and holds a EV180 skimmer from Aqua C. 
The first two sections hold a DSB of 6”, which provide 42% of the surface area of the equivalent DSB in the main tank. The main tank substrate is a minimal 1/2". There is a closed loop system of 1000GPH with SCWD to alternate flow. The flow through the sump/refuge is approximately 800GPH. The return to the main tank runs through 2 SCWDs to alternate flow. 
The lighting in the main tank is two 150 MH and two 96W Actinics. The refuge is lighted off cycle with a 96W 50/50
CF. For temperate control there is an Artica chiller. The tank has been cycling for three months. I'm using RO/DI water. So far, I've not had a substantial algae bloom. A clean up crew of 30 snails and 8 blue-legged hermit crabs has been keeping up rather well. I also have two small A. perculas and three Lysmata debelius in the tank. Before you ask, everything wet (Gracilaria, snails, crabs, shrimp, and fish) went through quarantine.
<Sounds VERY well planned out, well done.>
Now I'm seeing small feather dusters, coralline algae, and a colony of Zoanthidea. 
<Great signs.> 
The water chemistry has been stable for three weeks. Test results using a Salifert test kit, PH monitor and refractor are PH: 8.15, Temp.: 79F, Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: 0.2, SG: 1.025, KH: 11.2, CA: 356, Oxygen: 9, Mg: 1,260, I2: .06, Sr: 10. 
<All acceptable.>
Now for my questions, I would like to establish this as reef tank with a maximum of nine 3" reef compatible fish. Is this setup going to work? 
<Depends on the individual fish but for a crowded reef tank I would prefer to see a light load rather than a heavy load. I would stick with fish such as gobies, cardinals, Chromis, blennies and so on.> 
When would you consider it appropriate to add the first coral 
<Sounds like everything is stable enough for few hardy specimens.>
and what would be a good beginner coral? 
<Zoanthus sp. is always a good first start as are Green Star Polyps.> 
Should I add the corals or remaining fish first? 
<I prefer to allow the inverts. to establish first before stocking all of the fish.>
One more question, the A. perculas were tank reared. They went through quarantine without issue. I gave them a fresh water dip before they went in the tank. They were eating well in quarantine. They’ve been in the main tank for two weeks. They look very healthy. They swim around the tank together. They are alert and curious. They keep circling the tank at a moderate speed. However, they show little interest in the food pellets they had been eating. I've noticed they’re been eating the pods off the glass. I counted as many as 6 pods per square inch on some section of the glass. Are they getting enough to eat from the pods? 
<Mmm....Possibly but that won't last, try offering some other foods such as Mysis shrimp.> 
I've read that A. perculas are pigs and never turn down food, so I'm concerned. But, I don't want to be one of those newbies that over feed and foul the tank. Should I be worried? 
<Not yet these fish are quite new, start offering more of a variety.>
Thanks for your help!
<Quite Welcome.>
Michael
<Adam J.> 

Reef Tank: Stocking levels/choices/compatibility 11/1/05
Hello I'm new at reefing
<Hi and welcome to the hobby Antonio. Adam J helping you out tonight.>
I was wondering if you could advise me about tank population capacity. 
<Okay, sure.> 
I have a 90 gallon tank with a Penguin 330 hang on filter and a Rena XP3 canister filter as well as a protein skimmer rated for a 200 gallon tank, about 120 pounds of live rock and a 300 gph power head this tank has been running now for about 9 months. 
<Be sure to clean out the canister at least weekly, they can become nutrient traps, not something you want in a reef.> 
Right now I have a Caribbean Blue Tang (about 2 inch still yellow),
<Okay you are at about the minimum tank size for this tang you may want/need to part with him as he grows.>
a Red Scooter Blenny 
<Mmm….Dragonets are quite hard to keep, most starve to death in captivity if you plan to keep this animal long term I would look into a refugium.> 
and a Yellow Watchman Goby. 
<A good choice.> 
I would like to add 1 each of the following fish.
1) Fire Fish
<That would be a good choice.>
2) Royal Gramma
<Also good.>
3) Six Line Wrasse
<This is a very good choice generally but not for your tank, as you have a dragonet. This fish will be in competition of the dragonets food source.>
4) Clown Goby Citrinis
<Good choice.>
5) Court Jester Goby
<Mmm….one of the harder gobies to keep due to its feeding habits. Naturally feeds mostly on filamentous algae in the wild.>
6) Red Head Goby
<Very good choice and tank raised specimens are often available.>
7) Ocellaris Clown Fish
<Try to attain a tank-raised specimen if possible.>
8) Fairy Wrasse
<See my comment about the six-line wrasse.>
I also have the following:
Inverts: 1 cleaner shrimp, 2 brittle stars, 
<Which species? Some are quite predatory.> 
1 sand sifting star 
<These will sterilize your sand bed before dying, and most do die relatively quick in captivity through starvation.>
4 margarita snails, 3 turbo snails, 3 red leg hermits and 5 blue leg hermits and a green bubble tip anemone. 
<Hope you have researched the needs of this animal, best left to very mature tanks and experienced reef aquarists to say the least.>
Corals: 1 devils hand, 2 toad stool leathers, 5 small colonies of polyps and 3 mushrooms.
<All good choices, though all can grow large/quickly. Watch for growth encroachment on each other.>
My question basically is, can I add the fish that I wish to? 
<See above.> 
and If possible can I add even more than those? 
<No.>
if so could you suggest as many small fish that I could add with this community? 
<Research more through the FAQ’s and articles on WWM not only on other fish but the ones you currently have as well, sounds like you may have missed some important details from some of your stocking choices.> 
and should I get more inverts? 
<Depends on the species/type.> 
I would like to have the tang be the only large fish and the rest of the fish community to be all small fish in order to maximize population capacity.
<Keep in mind in a reef tank the inverts/coral is usually the main focus and it is ideal to minimize the fish load and thus the nutrient load low for the mixed invert/reef.>
Thank you so much for your time and assistance,
Antonio Ovalles, Toronto Canada
<You are welcome, Adam J.> 

Beginner's Stocking Questions II - 11/18/05
Thanks for the feedback Eric.
<<Always happy to offer up my opinions. <G> >>
The Tang is quite small (for now) but I'll post him for trade on my local board and go for the flame angel as recommended.
<<Excellent my friend...you will LOVE the Flame Angel, and the tang will be better off in a larger tank.>>
I guess I probably need to unload the anemone as well, but
permission for the tank and its expense depended on my wife getting her clowns, and the anemone really sweetened the deal.
<<Ah, understood...but the possible (likely) demise of the anemone is not worth it.  You can still have the clowns, they don't need an anemone host and will "get along" just fine without.  If you have your (her) heart set on clowns and anemones then spend some time to do the research, learn what specie is best/easiest/hardiest to keep, learn what you need to provide for its long term health (lighting, water flow, feeding, etc.), and set up a specie tank for just the anemone and a couple clowns.  Your chance for success will be greatly improved...and it's a great way to get another tank in to the house. <G> >>
I don't really have any other corals to speak of, except some small amounts of zoanthids, mushrooms, green stars, and xenia that came when I acquired the LR.  I'm fine with the 55g tank not having any corals, but am a little concerned that I could get
some chemical drift into the 20 through the sump thus making keeping corals in this tank as planned, impossible.  I'd rather lose the anemone than sacrifice the added stabilization of linking the tanks.
<<Mmm...the zooanthids and corallimorphs are a bigger contributor of "chemicals" than the anemone (short of it dying and melting in the tank).>>
From what I read, my setup in the 55 is adequate.
<<Adequate for what?>>
I made a bommie in the only corner of the tank that receives approximately 3 hrs of direct sun through a small basement window.  I only have 230 watts of PC's running on the tank <<Another reason to move out the anemone.>>, but
also have a small 18 watt PC sump light directing light at the anemone as well (I doubt this is really worthwhile).
<<Nor is it adequate...>>
With the sun only hitting the one corner of the tank and the bommie there, I haven't seen any movement, although it is recently acquired about 6 weeks ago.  I think I already know the answer is to get rid of the anemone, but the interaction between the
clowns and the anemone is one of the most gratifying parts of the setup.
<<I would agree that the interaction between fish and anemone is fascinating...but do your homework first...for the sake of all involved.>>  
Thanks for your help.
<<Always welcome, EricR>>
PS
I have a response for another FAQ I read, but unfortunately no clear picture.
The FAQ is Yellow Clown Goby with "parasites"
"This is my second go round buying yellow clown gobies in which they develop small yellow ?parasites. These bumps resemble flaps or tissue like people that have skin tags. <Ah yes... you are likely correct here... parasitic copepods likely> I have not seen these bumps on the green, black or red gobies in the store but have seem them on the yellow clown gobies at the store sometimes. The fleshy looking tags are yellow (not clear or white) there are at least a dozen on each side of the fish on the body, all fins
and gill cover. Some lay flat some stick out like flaps or tags. <Mmm, "Marine Clout" or other medicine containing organophosphate (yes, bug killer)... DTHP, Neguvon, Masoten, Dylox... this economic poison mal-affects terrestrial insects and (closely related physiologically, teleologically) crustaceans... of the latter which I believe the bumps are indicative>"
This is a perfect description of what my goby developed.  After purchase, I gave him a FW bath and, as recommended, a short quarantine.
<<Short?  Quarantine for a minimum of 4 weeks.>>
He developed the "tags" within a few days of arriving in the display tank.  I put him in quarantine and treated with an organophosphate as recommended.  I also began treating with a formalin/malachite based treatment with only transient
clearing followed by reappearance.  After two weeks, I had to leave town for a day and a half, and without medication the problem came back in full force.
<<Never completely eradicated.>>
I decided that he might have been re-inoculating himself (probably my fault-I put a fake coral in the tank and a small amount of sand as he was quite distraught in the bare tank).
<<Use short lengths of PVC pipe for this...can be sterilized/replaced as required.>>
I dipped him and transferred him to another treatment tank, with only a piece of lace rock leftover from freshwater days.
<<Another mistake>>
I then had a problem with an old heater that I used for this tank and the temp reached 86 degrees.  Whatever the combination of
these events, he completely cleared overnight and had no recurrence.
<<Yes, often elevating temperature is recommended as part of the treatment.>>
He has been back in the display tank for several days now and shows no sign of relapse.
<<Yay!>>
I don't think I'd try to replicate this exact experience again,
but the medication alone just wasn't working.
<<Mmm, disagree...likely wasn't given time/of proper concentration to do the job initially.>>
I was wondering if somehow I had produced an artificial "fever" state- it helps us clear pathogens, why not the fish as well?  The idea is sort of out there, but if anyone is aware of such examples, it would be you.  I think this would be contrary to the  copepod hypothesis as they should be quite heat tolerant.
<<The rise in temperature "speeds up" the parasite for faster development/quicker hatch/release from host to be "poisoned" by the medication.>>
Thanks for indulging my curiosity.
<<No worries mate, indulge some more by having a read here and at the blue links at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasitf.htm   EricR>>

Fish Wish List - 10-13-05
Hello it's me again, love your web site.
<<Thank you.>>
I have a couple of questions. I recently finished cycling my new 125 gallon aquarium with about 105 pounds of live rock, and was hoping for some advice on what fishes would be good for it (measures 60", 18",24")
I was thinking about a purple tang, a scribbled angelfish, and a golden butterfly fish. Thanks
<<The first thing you should ask yourself before getting your heart set on any fish is, what do you want to do with this aquarium? If you were planning on having live coral at any point you will need to tailor your fish wish list accordingly. If you are planning to do a fish only tank then you are allowed a little bit more flexibility, but you are still limited by inter-species compatibility. 
My suggestion would be for you to first decide what type of tank you want. Then pick your favorite fish (that is compatible with the first part) that you know, without a doubt, you want to have in your tank. Last but not least build your stocking list around the first two items and make sure to stock the fish in order of dominance, leaving the most dominant fish for last. Do not forget the importance of quarantining all fish before addition to your display. That one little step will save you a lot of money and heartache. Travis M>> 

Bio-Ball Removal and the Beginnings of a Reef Tank 10/11/05
I love your site.
<Not mine, but I will pass along the kind words. Thank You.>
My tank is fallowing now all fish in qtank (Amyloodinium). 
<Sorry to hear that, nasty disease.> 
I thought that this might be a good time to remove my bioballs and sump filter pad to reduce my nitrates a bit. 
<Yes this would be good timing. With the fish out of the tank it will be easier to “adjust” should the tank show any minor adverse effects.> 
My question is long after I remove the balls should I start to see a drop in nitrate? 
<Immediately following the removal you may actually see some instability ( a slight rise in ammonia, nitrite or nitrate). I suggest slowly taking the bio-balls out over a week and compensating with extra water changes. Once they are out and the tank is stable you will start too see a slow drop. Of course you’ll still have to do regular water changes. Also if the bio-ball removal leaves you with lots of extra room, I would look into a fishless refugium These will help tremendously with nitrate and nutrient control.> 
I do have about 150 to 200 pound of live rock. 
<This will help.> 
I want to keep some corals now and have already order a 320 watt VHO retrofit kit. The nitrates have been as high as 60ppm. 
<Yes far to high> 
My purple tip anemone is fine and so are my stars, mushrooms and shrimp...
<Keep a close eye on them, I would start performing some large water changes in the meantime.>
I am trying to turn a bad thing into something better. 
<You will succeed just keep researching and be patient.> 
I will add my fish in 2 more weeks (1 month total). 
<For Amyloodinium I would go at least 6 weeks to be on the safe side.><<Pay attention to this advice!>>
The fish in quarantine are 2 blue damsels 
<While these are out of the tank you may want to consider omitting them from your future stocking plan due to aggression.> 
and 1 freckled Hawkfish. Also can you suggest a good hardy coral species to begin with?
<Here are a few suitable species keeping in mind there are many more:
Mushrooms (Actinodiscus sp. and Rhodactis sp.)
Leather Coral (Most of those in the Sarcophyton sp. and Sinularia sp.)
Zoanthid Polyps (Zoanthus Sp.)
Clove Polyps (Clavularia sp.)
Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia sp.)
And much More!>
Thanks John
<No trouble, Adam J.>