35 Gallon Salt Water Tank  11/22/06
<Hi Lewis - Tim answering your question today!>
The tank is just started should I introduce live rock first or the fish?
<You should definitely introduce the live rock first and give this sufficient time to cycle. I would very strongly encourage you to ensure you thoroughly research marine aquariums and read the set up guides on the WWM website to make sure that you are properly prepared prior to starting your aquarium.>

Adding a fish to my tank...  - 11/11/06
Hello folks,
<Deborah>
I've currently got a 7 year old 55 gallon reef tank with:
-1 Coral Beauty
-1 False Percula Clownfish
-1 Yellow-tailed Blue Damsel
-1 Cleaner Shrimp
The tank has an array of soft corals in it (zoanthids, Ricordea, mushrooms, green star polyps, pulsing xenia, etc.)
<Just to keep the peace with myself, only the last... is actually a Soft Coral, an Alcyonacean... the rest are other Cnidarian, Anthozoan Class members>
and about 85lbs of live rock that has been in the tank for about 5 of the 7 years.  I'm looking for ideas on a fish to add to this setup that will:
-Not kill my cleaner shrimp (I have a 5 year old Falco's Hawkfish in another tank, but he'll decimate the shrimp)
<Oh yes>
-Not destroy my 'pod population (I had a sixline wrasse in there for a long time that did that, but he jumped for the heavens and met an untimely demise on my tile floor).
<Not an uncommon end for this genus>
-Handle the dominant nature of both my Coral Beauty and my Damsel.
They're both rather pushy and would certainly chase to death fish like Cardinals, Firefish, etc.
<Good that you know, recognize these criteria>
-Add a bit of colorful flash to the tank.
<Certainly>
I'd considered getting a bicolor blenny (had one of those once), but I'd like a fish that spends a bit more time in the water column.
Possibly another type of damsel would work well in this tank, so long as it doesn't get too big.  I've also tried a Royal Gramma in this tank, but he simply couldn't establish himself among the company kept in this tank already.
My system currently runs a Fluval 304 Canister Filter, a CPR BakPak skimmer and a SQWD pump system that moves the water around quite well.
I do weekly freshwater top offs and bi-weekly 20% changes.
Any ideas?
Thanks much!
Deb
<Mmm... a few faves... perhaps a Canary Wrasse, Halichoeres chrysus... one of the larger Cardinal species, like a/the Banggai, Pyjamas/Sphaeramia, even one of the Hamlets/Hypoplectrus, or the genus Serranus... Bob Fenner>

Stocking 55 Reef 11/1/06
Hello Crew:
<Hi>
I am currently on vacation and have some good news/bad news.  The good news, I purchased additional lighting for my tank so I know have 260 Watts of PC. <Nice>  The bad news is that my fish sitter called and my Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse jumped out of my tank and was found the next day on the floor. <Sorry>  I am so bummed out. I loved that fish. <Know the feeling, I still miss my Possum Wrasse that did the same thing.>  I purchased a book by John Tullock called natural Reef Aquariums and am trying to have an Indo-Pacific shallow inshore habitat. <Neat> I have some fish now and my qt is ready for my return from vacation.  I would have liked to add coral first however I currently have fish so I am going to finalize the fish and then start with corals. <Ok> Due to my recent loss I have 2 Percula clowns, 1 sixline wrasse, and a Yellow Watchman Goby.  According to my book I have narrowed down a fish list for the microhabitat that I am trying to create.  I wanted to run it by you.  The tank is a 55 and I would like to add the following additions:
1 Banggai Cardinalfish
1 Yellow Tail Damselfish
1 Firefish
My concern is that the Damsel will harass the others. <Possible>  Do you think it could work? If not I actually think I would like to add more than one Damsel instead of the other's.  If that is the case do you have a recommendation for the number of Yellowtails that I would be ok with.  Thank you in advance for your help.
<The Banggai and Firefish are both pretty passive, the damsel or current inhabitants may cause them a problem, the firefish being the most likely target.  But of course it could work too, really depends on the temperament of the individual fish.  If you decide to go with more damsels 2 or 3 total should be ok, although you will be pretty heavily stocked after that.>
<Chris>

How many is too many - wife battle   10/27/06
Thanks for you time in answering another question.  I have a 70 gallon tall oceanic reef ready tank with 20 gal sump.
<No prev. corr. attached>
Couple inches of live sand
70 or so pounds of live rock
protein skimmer
UV sterilizer
One powerhead for additional circulation
2 x96 power compact 10k and actinic
nitrites - 0
nitrates - 20
<Borderline...>
ph - 8.29
salinity - 1.024
temp 79
I do a 5 gallon water change weekly.
I have various mushrooms and polyps, 3 feather dusters, and various hermit crabs, turbo snails, 2 cleaner shrimp, a sand shifter and a brittle star.
My current fish are a mated pair of true percula, royal Gramma, 2 six line wrasse's, a purple tang and powder brown tang (introduced at the same time and get along great),
and a little cleaner goby.  All of the fish are fairly small now.
I'm guessing I'm about full as far as fish goes, however my wife is in love with the Foxface lo and wants me to get one.  I'm worried this will be to much when everybody grows up.
<May be too much... incompatibility wise right now...>
What's you opinion? Are even more fish possible within this tank, smaller 2 - 3 inch fish or small gobies?  I need some support, my wife has a tendency to get want she wants.
<Something small/ish like Gobioids, Blennioids would go... I'd skip on the Siganid here... too "closely related" to the Tangs. BobF>
Thank you,
Brian F

Choosing The Final Fish!  - 10/24/06
Hello Crew:
<Hey! Scott F. with you today!>
I am in the process of finishing up my fish stocking before I get my Lighting to accommodate Mushrooms and Polyps.  I currently have 1 Sixline Wrasse, 2 Percula Clowns, 1 Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse, and 1 Yellow Watchman Goby.  The tank is a 55 with an Emperor 400, Aqua C Remora, 50 LBS of live sand, 25 LBS of Live Rock, and 30 Lbs of Tufa Rock ( Tank up for seven Months and the Tufa looks "live"). Based on the fact that I will now have lunar lights I would like to get either 2 Banggai Cardinal Fish, or a Banggai Cardinal and a Firefish.  Do you think that would be OK? If so which would be the better option.  Thank you so much for all of your help.
<I like both fishes. I would probably go for the Firefish. MY concern is that many Banggais arrive weakened and are slow to feed. In an established tank (with a Sixline Wrasse who has the potential to be a behavioral problem), I'd choose the Firefish. Although still somewhat shy, it has the ability to retreat to a hole for cover as needed. I'd add only one more fish, and that would do it for stocking this tank. Whichever fish you choose, be sure to quarantine it and get it eating before introducing it to the display tank. Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>

A Few Questions In General - 10/18/06
Hi, Like everyone I thoroughly enjoy reading your site I find it quite useful for beginners like myself.
<Hi and welcome to the obsession. I've been doing this for more years that I ever plan to admit lol.>
I do have a few questions though specific to my tank. I have a 90 gallon tank(3-4 months old) with about 100 lbs of live rock, as well as live sand and the following livestock:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
5 Damsels of various colors
1 Tomato Clown
1 Camel back Shrimp,1 Cleaner Shrimp
1 Serpent Star, 1 Sea Cuke, 1 Arrow Crab, 3 Emerald Crabs
A handful of Turbo Snails/Mexican Hermits
1 Feather Duster, 1 Rock Anemone, 1 Haitian Pink Tip Anemone
1 Toadstool Leather, 1 Chocolate Chip Star
A few Nassarius Snails/2 Conchs I believe fighting
Now that's being said do I have enough room to add any more fish?
<If you want to do large water changes every week or if you want to watch fish have problems then you can add more.  Seriously, I'm notorious for over adding fish and doing it way, way, way to quickly. But you have a very loaded tank and very quickly.  To  have added that many creatures that quickly they haven't had time to settle and adapt to their living quarters.  Obviously you had done a great job setting it up and taking care of it to this point.  I see some potential problems in the mix for you to watch for closely.  In my experience Chocolate Chip Star Fish can go predatory.  Meaning they can start attacking and eating other creatures.  To avoid problems make sure that they get some meaty foods. Shrimp or something along that line to feed on.  Your serpent star will appreciate it as well. >
If so would a blue tang or a Kole tang work? Also the cuke I bought last week to try to help clean up the brown film on the sand has been MIA since I bought it. Is this reason for concern? I was wondering if they bury themselves. From the reading I've done I heard that you don't want these dying in your tank.
<A lot of the cukes do bury themselves, I see mine every couple of months. He gets larger and smaller depending on the amount of foods they have to eat.>
I also have a question about Nitrates in general, that is the only problem I am having with my water. They hang around 20-40ppm. Is this ok or too high for the livestock I have?
<Nitrates are the byproduct of having a lot of creatures in the tank very quickly. Continue doing your water changes and let the tank settle down. I would suggest a period of at least six months of no additions.>
I just purchased and set up a skimmer to help with this. Should I bother with any of the Denitrifying filter media, or is that just a waste. I do 10% water changes once or twice a week.
<Personally I would do about 20% every week until the tank settles down. Some of the denitrifying material is great and will work amazingly. But overall you need to let your tank settle down, let your creatures find their space and see how they are going to work over the long term.>
Phosphates seem to be ok however I am getting a lot of brown/green algae growing. I have a 20 gal sump with a return pump. The water just runs through a filter sock and goes back up into the tank. I believe I have read that trickle filters like this can contribute to higher nitrate levels.  
<Trickle filters can contribute to higher nitrates but they can also provide higher oxygen levels which can assist the fish.  If you filter only goes though a filter sock and then into the sump where it goes back to the tank its not a true trickle filter and you should be fine.  If however, it goes over some type of filter media you eventually will need to find some ways to work around potential nitrate benefits. I personally used a refugium combined with a trickle filter and they balanced out beautifully.  Before I say another word, I want you to understand what a great job you are doing. Its wonderful that you are thinking and looking and realizing there are things you want to do to make your tank successful. I think if you want to let your tank settle and then reevaluate to determine what more you need for your tank in six months time you will have a wonderful system that will last you for a very long time.>
I do change the sock once a week. Any suggestions?...oh I just put the skimmer in the sump to help but the water coming from the outlet on the skimmer is splashing on-top of the return pump sending a lot of little air bubbles into the tank. Is this bad for the fish? I moved it around a little to minimize this but am still getting some.
<There are several things you can do, you might try raising the skimmer in the water or lowering it as well.>
Finally, I was worried about inadequate lighting and what I could put in my tank as far as anemones and corals go. I have an Odessea power compact with 2 65 watt 12000k daytime bulbs and 2 65 watt actinic blue lights with the 4 led moonlights. Is this sufficient for what I have. The Toadstools seems to be doing ok after 2 months. <I think they will be fine but I'm worried about the anemones. They are fine now but they will fad as time goes by.>
Again, thank you for all you do to help us readers. You help with the challenges of this addicting and expensive hobby. <Thank you for your kind words. I really do believe you have it together. Keep learning, keep studying and you'll go far in this obsession. Can't call it a hobby cause it really takes control. Good luck, MacL>

List of Fish - 10/22/2006
Crew,
<Hi there, MacL here with you today. How's life?>
My wife and I have been trying to do some research before we buy the fish for our tank so it is not impulse buying and we will be sorry later. Here is the list we have compiled.
Our Tanks:
60 gallon DAS tank, 80 pounds live rock, 110 pounds live sand, 20 blue leg hermits, 30 Nassarius snails, 10 Astrea snails, one sand sifting star (which we will be getting rid of next trip to LFS), one small branched hammer coral, and one pulsing xenia/small. Any suggestions so far or changes you would suggest in what I have?  
Our fish want list:
2 True perculas with a Rose anemone. (This is the item we want the most so it is a have to have unless you know something we don't that is detrimental).
3 Blue Chromis <Which ones? I would recommend what's commonly called blue reef Chromis, they are much less aggressive.>
1 Spotted Cardinal <My favorite fish, cardinals. . . .>
1 Purple firefish goby
1 Coral Beauty or Flame Angel
1 Copper Banded Butterfly fish
1 McCosker's Flasher Wrasse
1 Spotted Yellow eye tang
1 Red Fromia  Starfish OR Marble Starfish
Coral want list:
Ricordea Mushroom
Flower anemone
Purple Plate coral
We are pretty sure we can't have ALL of these. Which ones do you think are out and which ones are in and can coexist together without much trouble. If you had these as a list what would your choices be?
<Tough question because people's choices differ but lets talk a little about what you want.  While I love sixty gallon tanks they aren't very large and the tang should eventually outgrow it or if not it will "mysteriously" die. Mostly because it runs out of room to grow.  You should be okay with the Ricordea but it will probably multiply over the long course and you'll need to figure out what you'll want to do in that eventuality. I wouldn't suggest mixing anemones. If you want the percula's and anemone most of all design the tank around them and remember that they will be aggressive should they start reproducing. What that means is that they'll have one side of the tank to themselves and the rest of the fish will be on the other side of the tank. My 180 has flasher wrasses and cardinals and gobies in it so you can see that I truly love those guys but the percula's will boss and possibly hurt the gobies.  It will need hiding places.  Ah and before I forget while plate corals are cool they do occasionally consume live fish so personally I would skip that one with the mix you want.  Hope that helps. MacL>
Thanks for all the help and guidance!!!!!
Have a great day!!!!  -Mark Brown

Stocking a Tall Reef System   10-19-06
Hi everyone,
<How goes it?  You get me today!  Been a while since I was here helping out...too long I think>
I appreciate all of your help to me and all the others that have developed an obsession to continually get bigger & better reef systems. I am truly obsessed!
<Aren't we all? ;)>
I have been in this hobby for two years now.  I began blindly with an equally blind LFS.  The lighting was not right, the tank was too deep, the skimmer wasn't hardly worthy of being called a skimmer, etc.
<It has been my experience that LFS aren't the best sources for information, unless you happen to stumble upon an exceptional one>
Luckily, I found another LFS with a very knowledgeable owner that has kept me on the right path along with your experiences.
<Lucky you!>
  I began with a 110 very deep aquarium.  I have learned so much & now have an opportunity to upgrade my system.  We have purchased a 180 gallon
24X24X72 reef ready aquarium that we have put into a wall.  I can be viewed from both sides. I have a 55 gallon sump/refugium.  I plan on  having a 6" sand bed in the refugium and a 4 to 5" sand bed in the aquarium.
<Sounds good - make sure to provide adequate water flow in both the refugium and the display>
  I had many problems getting the nitrate down in the 110 gallon, so I don't want to take any chances with this one.
<Frequent water changes will cure that, as well as a DSB, or homemade denitrator>
  I have an aqua c remora skimmer, 1600 Mag drive pump  to power two squids plus the two returns.  My lights are double-ended metal halide 3 at 250watts, plus actinics.   We will set up the 180 gallon by using the old water from the 110 gallon when I do water changes.
<Don't do that - used freshly mixed water>
  I will seed the new sand bed with old sand (remove around 1') from the 110, and move half of the live rock initially.  I have many hard and soft corals along with a yellow tang, regal blue tang, flame angel, two clarkii clowns, fox face, sand-sifting goby, pink Pseudochromis, 3 pajama cardinals, blue damsel and one dragonet. I also have a beautiful rose anemone. Of course a complete cleanup crew consisting of snails, a few crabs that I plan to not transfer, cleaner
shrimp, coral-banded shrimp, sand sifting sea star, brittle stars and long-spine urchin.  As water tests permit, I will slowly add some corals and fish.  So after all of this background, I would appreciate your opinions on four questions. 1.  Can I move all of the sand in the refugium to the new refugium or should I only take the top 1" layer?  I have so many pods, etc, I hate not to move them if I can, especially due to the mandarin.
<You could probably move the top 2-3", but I would not move the entire thing>  
2.  I wanted to add a school of Anthias, the most hardy of course.  However, I know they are a much more delicate fish & everything says they should not be added to a new tank.  Again I know the critters in the refugium are needed for their success.  Initially, I wanted to add the Anthias first, so they could get established before adding my existing fish.  If all of the contents of my existing refugium can be moved, how much time should I wait to add the Anthias?
<However you want to do it is fine, but I would not add the Anthias for at least 3 months>
3.  Would it be better to put the soft corals on one side of the tank and the hard corals on the other side, or does it not matter since it is an enclosed system?  I know there can be problems mixing the various corals.  I haven't had any problems thus far, but just thought I would inquire.
<It absolutely mattes on how you place the corals - their lighting needs must be taken into account.  Since you already have 'soft' and 'hard' corals (which I do not recommend mixing) you're going to need to figure out what each species light requirements are, as well as what species is likely to compete with another, and place accordingly>
  4.  With the existing fish above plus possibly 7 to 9 Anthias, do I have room for maybe a Naso Tang?
<Nope!  These guys get huge>  
I do not want to over-stock, and there are so many fish I would like to have; however, I don't think my husband will allow me to have yet another tank for more fish.  Incidentally, I have a 44 gallon reef tank with two maroon clowns along with a giant bubble tip anemone and beautiful corals, a 55 gallon FOWLR with three predator fish, and a 10 gallon QT tank.   
<QT=good!>
I look forward to your advice.
<Hope I was of help>
Robin
<M.Maddox>

Just a Few Questions (Stocking/Setup) - 10/15/06
Hi,
<<Hello>>
Like everyone I thoroughly enjoy reading your site I find it quite useful for beginners like myself.
<<Glad you find it helpful>>
I do have a few questions though specific to my tank.
<<Okay>>
I have a 90-gallon tank (3-4 months old) with about 100 lbs of live rock, as well as live sand and the following livestock:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
5 Damsels of various colors
<<Potential for problems here>>
1 Tomato Clown
1 Camel back Shrimp
1 Cleaner Shrimp
1 Serpent Star
1 Sea Cuke
1 Arrow Crab
3 Emerald Crabs
A handful of Turbo Snails/Mexican Hermits
1 Feather Duster
1 Rock Anemone
1 Haitian Pink Tip Anemone
1 Toadstool Leather
1 Chocolate Chip Star
A few Nassarius Snails/2 Conchs I believe "fighting"
Now that's being said do I have enough room to add any more fish?
<<Mmm, maybe one or two small fishes>>
If so would a blue tang or a Kole tang work?
<<The tank is too small for a blue (hippo?) tang regardless of the other fish already there...the Kole tang "might" work, but you will likely have trouble adding this with the Yellow tang already established in this tank>>
Also the cuke I bought last week to try to help clean up the brown film on the sand has been MIA since I bought it.  Is this reason for concern?
<<Not if there hasn't been a problem before now, besides, is likely it is "lost" in the rockwork and will eventually reappear.  If you want something to clean up your substrate, forget the Kole tang and get yourself a Bullet goby (Amblygobius phalaena)...will do a top-notch job>>
I was wondering if they bury themselves.
<<No...but they can squeeze in to/through some amazingly small holes/crevices>>
From the reading I've done I heard that you don't want these dying in your tank.
<<Indeed, though if one of the commonly available brown or "tiger-tail" species this is less of a concern than with the brightly-colored specimens>>
I also have a question about Nitrates in general, that is the only problem I am having with my water.  They hang around 20-40ppm.  Is this ok or too high for the livestock I have?
<<Too high...with the inverts you need to strive to keep this below 5-ppm>>
I just purchased and set up a skimmer to help with this.
<<Excellent, but look too to your source water re>>
Should I bother with any of the Denitrifying filter media, or is that just a waste.
<<Some Poly-Filter added somewhere in your filter path is always beneficial>>
I do 10% water changes once or twice a week.
<<Are you filtering your source water? (RO and/or DI)
Phosphates seem to be ok however I am getting a lot of brown/green algae growing.  I have a 20 gal sump with a return pump.  The water just runs through a filter sock and goes back up into the tank.
<<This filter sock will need cleaning "at least" weekly, as it soon becomes a trap for decaying detritus>>
I believe I have read that trickle filters like this can contribute to higher nitrate levels.
<<Indeed, but I don't see any mention of a trickle-filter>>
I do change the sock once a week.
<<Ah...good>>
Any suggestions?...oh I just put the skimmer in the sump to help but the water coming from the outlet on the skimmer is splashing on-top of the return pump sending a lot of little air bubbles into the tank.
<<Need to reposition this>>
Is this bad for the fish?
<<Excessive bubbles, especially small bubbles, can be bad for all>>
I moved it around a little to minimize this but am still getting some.
<<Perhaps you can place some filter-floss/a piece of filter pad under the skimmer to help eliminate the bubbles from the splashing (be sure to clean/replace at least weekly)>>
Finally, I was worried about inadequate lighting and what I could put in my tank as far as anemones and corals go.
<<I never recommend mixing anemones with sessile invertebrates>>
I have an Odessea power compact with 2 65-watt 12000K daytime bulbs and 2-65 watt actinic blue lights with the 4 led moonlights. Is this sufficient for what I have.
<<Barely...I would replace one of the actinics with another 12000K or 10000K bulb>>
The Toadstools seems to be doing ok after 2 months.  Again, thank you for all you do to help us readers.
<<Quite welcome>>
You help with the challenges of this addicting and expensive hobby. :)
<<Is a pleasure to share.  Regards, EricR>>

More Advice Needed - 10/15/06
To the Wet Web Crew:
Hello! My name is Nick and I have a somewhat long e-mail but after researching Wet Web and other sources I'm somewhat confused by the differing information regarding what I want to do next.  Your help is appreciated.
<Nick, you can also help us by not sending your email multiple times. WetWebMedia is a volunteer organization and sometimes we're not as timely as we'd like to be. This doesn't mean we've lost your email but it does mean we'll get back to you as soon as we possibly can... now on to the real business.>
I recently upgraded from a 37 gallon reef/fish to a 92 gallon corner tank with some minor left over corals (mainly mushrooms) and am migrating to a more fish only tank.  I've been in the hobby for about a year and a half and have had pretty good success (by way of only losing about 3 fish total with an ich incident).
I am running an Eheim Ecco 2236 and have well over 100lbs of live rock.  I did use some water, sand and all the live rock from my 37 gallon during transfer.  This set up has been in place for about 5 weeks now.  Due to the set up, I don't have room for a protein skimmer and I've been told as long as I keep up water changes, watch my feeding and have a good cleaning crew / live rock stock, I should be ok.  Agreed? <To an extent... human nature being what it is, you will need to be genuinely diligent about those water changes. Don't skip.>
I currently have the following fish:
1. Longnose Hawkfish (added 1 week ago)
2. Watchman Goby (owned several months)
3. Ocellaris Clown (owned several months)
4. Coral Beauty (owned several months)
5. Black and white Butterfly Bannerfish - Heniochus Acuminatus (added 1 week ago)
*NOTE:  Just took a Sergeant Major Damsel out which I had for several months*
All the fish in the tank are 2" to 3.5" with the Butterfly being about 5". I feed them all once a day and it is a combo of Omega flake and Sally's Mysid shrimp mix.  I also alternate supplements in the food each day or so with Garlic Extreme, then Vita-Chem (not both at the same time - I was told that might be too much). Even the new fish seem to eat well and they are lively and active.
I also have a cleaning crew coming tomorrow made up of shrimp, crabs and snails - various different species which I was told should be ok with the fish I have and want...which leads me to my real question (thought the background would help).
I would like to round out my tank with a couple more specimens and would like to stay in the 6" to 10" range as I did get a larger tank for larger fish - within reason.  I've done some research on your website, a couple books and working through Dr. Foster & Smith - Live Aquaria and e-Tropicals.  I purchased the two most recent fish (hawk and butterfly) from them and they seem to be knowledgeable and helpful for the most part.
I am interested in two Tangs (realizing this is caution and need to do simultaneously - leading candidates are Blue Tang (hepatus), Kole Yellow Eye and/or Chevron - good choices? <Very standard choices.> which is best? <The one you like the most.> Ok in my 92? <Probably not both of them - either one, even if procured at a small size, will begin to see all this space as their own and will dominate the tank eventually.> I also know this species is more prone to certain disease like ich, but they are generally listed under the easy to moderate care level. <Mostly because they bow out quickly if they aren't going to make it. If they're going to make it, then they are relatively easy to keep.>
Or, I was thinking of 1 tang and a larger Angel.  Most information I've read is a dwarf like my Coral Beauty and a large should be ok, but can't have two of the same. <Still, this tank, in spite of its total gallonage, is not all that big when you look at swimming space - your tank is already filling up.> The one I like the best is the Blue Girdled and on the LiveAquaria site it states the fish is one of the easier large angels to keep. <Do not entirely agree with this assessment.> On Wet Web, this seems to be a more difficult to keep fish and there doesn't seem to be many which would be suggested for my 92 gallon (most species is 100+). <That is correct and more in line with how I would advise you.> The LiveAquaria site lists this angel as minimum of 70 gallons so I thought I was ok. <Perhaps 70 gallons all to itself.> What angels would work better if the Blue Girdled is not good? <Do read through our section on angels to find more suitable choices.> Should I abandon the angel choice? <Any of the pygmy angels would be good in your current mix.>
I just have quite a bit of differing opinions and don't want to set myself up for trouble. <Well, do keep in mind that we're not trying to sell you anything - Foster's and Smith is.> Am I on the right track with the final two species above? <More research is in order.> Should I consider some other species? <Why not a small fairy wrasse or something?>
Sorry for the long e-mail and appreciate the help.
Regards,
-Nick M.
PS: I also wanted to mention I have two Powerheads on each side of the corner tank to increase water flow.  Not sure if this is helpful, but thought I would pass along. <Good to know, but doesn't change any of my recommendations.> Thanks.
<Cheers, J -- >

Fish stock and compatibility in a reef system   10/8/06
Good morning Crew,
<N>
My current system is a two plus year old 55 gallon reef containing 15 species of soft and LPS corals, 60 pounds of live rock, 2-3 inch sand bed, and   numerous inverts.  It is home to three fish: geometric pygmy hawk (  Plectranthias inermis), red head elegant Pseudochromis, and a blue streak  cleaner wrasse ( 2 + yrs old eating pellet, Nori, and frozen prep.).  I  would like to add two more fish from a list of four.  The four fish are:  yellow assessor, mystery wrasse, swalesi Basslet, and a bimaculatus candy hog.
<All good choices>
  Of these four which two would be best for my system?
<Mmm... the Basslet and small Bodianus species IMO>
Also, of the two selected  what would be the stocking order?
<Either>
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
N. from Hoboken
<B from S. Cal.>

Query Yellow Wrasse & Cleaner Wrasse... mis-stocked reef on its way to the big ex-hobbyist garage in the sky    10/3/06
Hello WWM Team, I am Hitesh from Mumbai India. I got a 48\"x15\"x24\"  with 55kgs Live Rocks cleaned by Venturi type skimmer....2 power heads for circulation (3000L/Hr) Lighting - 1 no Metal Halide (Blue Radium) 75W 20000K, 2 nos 36W PL 10000KInverts - Boxer Shrimp / Candy Shrimp / Whine Shrimp (2 nos) /
<Wonder what this is>
Anemone Shrimps 2 pairs / 3 Anemones /
<Trouble...>
1 no Mushroom rock / 4 polyp rocks / 4 leather corals / 2 daisy corals / 1 cauliflower coral / 1 brain coral / 1 sea fan / 6 feather dusters S - 2 nos Regals / 1 Maroon Gold Band / 2 Skunks / 1 Pseudochromis / 1 blue devil / 2 yellow goby\'s / 1 three striped damsel / 1 cleaner wrasse / 1 yellow wrasse. Coming to my question - I have recently added 1 yellow wrasse , i was acclimatizing it in a container above my tank , when i returned i saw the container empty!!
<Jumped!>
i searched in vain that whole evening in the nooks and crevices of the tank ... i was just praying that the yellow wrasse may have jumped in the tank while acclimatizing and survived... The following morning the yellow wrasse appeared and i was glad ..it was eating too! it was swimming the whole day until it disappeared again by evening (even though the 2 nos PL lights were on) it didn't appear in early morning today during my feed time....am worried...am in office now and hoping to see it swimming when am back home late evening. Question 2 - I had also purchased a cleaner wrasse which was also introduced simultaneously,
<Labroides sp.? Poor choice>
it never took into hiding and kept swimming the whole day till it vanished in the evening 30 minutes after the yellow wrasse vanished. It hasn't appeared today morn whilst feeding... Is this normal?
<To die mysteriously? Yes>
In case they hide in evening how do they get to know its evening considering the lights still on! Lights MH and 1 PL on from 7 am morn to 7 pm evening and post 7 pm 2 Pls on till 10pm then no lights till morn. feeding time 7 am and 7 pm
<Where to start...? You have an incompatible mix of Anemones and other Cnidarian species... and too much period for such a small volume of water. Please take a read re the species listed on WWM (use the indices, search tool)... re their Compatibility, Systems... Is there a full moon out or what? Bob Fenner>

Anenome potential death... mis-stocked iatrogenic troubles   10/2/06
I have a fairly large reef setup in a 150 gallon tank with many  different types of corals in it. Any way to get to the point i
<I>
have a large  anemone about a 1.5 feet across and have had it for about 2 years now.  While i was feeding my large zebra eel, my only meat eater in the tank :D, he  grabbed the large shrimp i fed him and thrashed around only to put a tentacle of  my Anenome in his mouth as he bit down. Obviously he bit it off and my Anenome  immediately
shrank down into its smallest form.........all this happened about  20 min ago and he still has not come out..im scared for my  anemones survival he's been with me for a very long time. Please get  back to me soon  
Thanks alot
<No such word... a lot>
                John  
<What can you do? This anemone, eel and "corals" need separate settings... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
re the species you list, their Systems, Compatibility.
Bob Fenner>

Question re Fish/invert plan:   10/1/06
Hi,
<Hello there>
I've spent a bit of time reviewing through various websites, including this site, and have hopefully learned quite a bit.
<Better to read books in my estimation...>
  I've developed a plan for the fish/inverts I want to add to my aquarium.  I wanted to get another take on it, and appreciate any advice you have to offer.  I plan to start out as a fish/invert tank.  I've only previously kept FOWLR and Fish only tanks, so this is new, and I'm still a little uncertain.  I am hoping to generally get reef safe species in case corals start to interest me down the road, but that is a long way off, at best.
<Good>
The setup is a 72 gallon bowfront.  I have a two level refugium/sump.  First, the water drains into a refugium with about 20-25 gallons of water.  I'm planning on putting Chaeto in this, and also trying to raise pods in there.
Second, the water then drains from the refugium into a 20 gallon sump with about 10-12 gallons of water during operation.  Between all of the tanks, I have about 120 pounds of rocks.  I have about 80 pounds of live rock and 10 pounds of reef rocks
<?>
in the main tank, and a mixture of live sand and crushed coral for the substrate.  I've put some rubble in the sump, and a little more rock in the refugium.  The sump includes a TurboFlotor 1000 protein skimmer with an ocean runner pump.  I have the return water line split, with about a third going to the TurboFlotor.  It overflows if I try to run more than that through it.  The lighting is two 110 VHO bulbs (actinic for now) and two 250 MH (10K) bulbs.
I bought the system used, and it came with a couple fish that I currently have in a 20 gallon hospital tank, including a small yellow tail damselfish (currently a very meek little dude), a 2 inch maroon clown, a large hermit crab (appears to be 3 inches, possibly 4, in length,
<Keep your eye on this predator>
a small hermit crab, one large coral banded shrimp (3.5 inches in body length),
<And this>
and several astrea snails.  They all get along, no nipping that I've seen.
I plan to give the two hermits, the damsel, and the large coral banded shrimp away to others or the LFS.
<Good>
  I think they will conflict with some of the species I want long term.  I guess the other option is to leave them in the hospital tank, though that would be a problem for using it as a hospital.
I haven't been able to identify the hermits.  They have red legs with black spots that from time to time have a white portion on the spots, and dark colored (brown or black) eye stems.  I tried to get a picture of him, but my camera (and my skills) just aren't up to the task.  I've looked around to find pictures that may match, but can't find one like him.  Any advice on further species to research to see what they are would be appreciated.
<There are many species>
So, long term in the main tank I would like to include the following:
Inverts:
10 Astrea turbo snails
1 queen conch
5 Narcissus snails
1 cleaner shrimp
4-5 peppermint shrimps
Possibly 4 blue legged hermits, if no conflicts.
Fish:
The maroon clown (or, if too aggressive, one or two percula or false percula clowns)
5-6 green Chromis damsels
1 blue hippo tang
1 coral beauty angel
Possibly a Banggai cardinal
Possibly 1 green mandarin dragonet (if successful in raising pods in refugium first)
I would be looking to add fish in stages as the tank cycles and stabilizes.
The clown will go in the tank somewhere in the next couple weeks after the initial cycle is done.
<Will be the dominant fish here>
  Then the green Chromis would go in next, and I'd probably stop there for awhile.  Eventually I'd look to add the dragonet and/or cardinal.  Do dragonets prefer to be by themselves or in pairs?  I seem to see conflicting information on this.
<Not important. Either way>
If all goes well, I'd add the blue hippo tang next, followed by the coral beauty.  Any advice you can give about the fish selection or the order of addition would be very appreciated.
<These should be fine together... in this order>
As far as I can tell, these fish seem like they would leave each other alone, though I am somewhat worried about the angel with the mandarin.  I've also seen some conflicting info on this. Can you let me know if this seems reasonable, or if I should revise my plans?  Thanks very much for your time.
John
<I would go with what you detail so well. Bob Fenner>

Re: Question re Fish/invert plan:  10/2/06
Mr. Fenner,
<John>
Thanks very much for your reply, appreciate it.
<Welcome>
>>>>>>>I've spent a bit of time reviewing through various websites,
including this
site, and have hopefully learned quite a bit.
<Better to read books in my estimation...>
It was late when I typed out my email to you, and I forgot about that.  I
had picked up three books, yours was the only one that was worth anything,
and I actually came to wetwebmedia because of it.  I read it cover to cover,
except for the sections, e.g., sharks, that I have no interest in at this time.  I got alot out of it.
<Am glad you found this so, grateful for your remarks>
>>>>>>>I have about 80 pounds of live rock and 10pounds of reef rocks
<?>
Reef Rocks are an artificial rock:  http://www.reefrocksrus.com/  The tank I got came with quite a bit of active live rock, and I supplemented it slightly with the reef rocks.
<Interesting. Thank you for this as well. Was unfamiliar with this term, product>
Thanks again for your help, both in the book and in this email, its probably saved a couple fish.
John
<Glad we have done so. Bob Fenner>

Bio-Load and Bio-Diversity – 09/30/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello Steve>>
First of all, allow me to just say thanks on the continuous support offered by this site and your continued efforts to educate those in need.
<<Is our pleasure to share>>
Bob Fenner’s book has been a great reference for me and many others as well.
<<Indeed>>
Applause to all of you at WWM for your time and your effort.
<<Thank you>>            
As Mr. Fenner describes in his book about the niche we all seem to fall into regarding this hobby, I seem to have fallen into the 'endless tinkerer' category.
<<Hee!  Me too!  Just can't keep my hands out of my tank/off the gear...>>
I am evolving what I affectionately call ‘Frankentank’.  It’s the endless pursuit of pristine water parameters and the love of research that seems to keep me motivated.  Anyhow, to get to my point, I would like to clarify how we measure our ‘bioload’ in our tanks.
<<Mmm...much to do with experience, learning/gaining an "instinct" for what is right...what is wrong...evaluating livestock selections on multiple levels...more...>>
If my research, (actually my researching other’s research), is correct then there should be a distinction between fish and virtually all zooxanthellae hosting corals in terms of bioload.
<<Not sure what you mean here...  Any "distinction" in my opinion would only be the size of the "burden" placed on a system (with fish normally placing the higher burden).  Make no mistake, all corals increase/add to the bio-load>>
As seen elsewhere on the net, and in other books, everyone categorizes corals in the same group as fish in terms of bioload.
<<I have seen/read authors who make the "distinction">>
It’s usually phrased like “Corals poop too”.
<<Ha!  Though all won't do this in the same sense as fishes maybe, they all must shed waste/metabolites in some fashion>>
But, reefs have some of the most stable and nutrient poor water conditions on the planet. <Better described as nutrient concentrated, scarfed up IMO. RMF>
<<Some debate here…  Stable for the most part, yes…though some back reefs/reef flats/lagoonal areas are subject to frequent and massive fluctuations in salinity/turbidity/water chemistry and clarity due to evaporation and heavy rain/runoff.  As for being “nutrient poor”, it is thought by some that most reefs are “nutrient locked”…meaning that nutrients are present/come in with the water flow, but are quickly absorbed (locked) by the plethora of diverse organisms present>>
Isn’t that due to the evolution of species and their ability to make usable nutrients that are otherwise lost if excreted?
<<Not lost…likely “used” by another organism>>
Isn’t nutrient recycling what allows corals to thrive in an environment that would possibly starve them?
<<Nutrient recycling can take many forms…I’m assuming what you’re referring to here is recycling of the organic chemical (nitrogenous) elements in the water.  While many of the organisms can live off their own body mass for a time (sometimes a “considerable” amount of time…as attested by those animals unsuitable for aquarium life that “slowly starve to death over a period of many months” while “shrinking to nothing” before dying), they wouldn’t be present/flourish on the reef if they were in a continual state of starvation.  This is one reason I believe it is very important to feed a reef tank “often and heavily”…even to the point of encouraging/having to live with a bit of “nuisance” algae.  Admittedly, not a very popular concept with most reef aquarists>>
The symbiotic relationship between these dinoflagellates and corals is what allows them to measurably uptake dissolved nutrients.
<<Mmm, trifling maybe…but not so much allows “uptake” (I believe the coral has this ability with or without the zooxanthellae), but is the means of conversion of the nutrients to a more useful carbon form>>
Isn’t this physiological process what allows reefs to be the most productive benthic environments in the world?
<<Indeed, but not just a “benthic” environment…a whole ecosystem…>>
In my experience, some of the best looking reef tanks are those which were heavily stocked with corals and minimally stocked with fish.
<<I have to disagree here my friend.  I feel many corals benefit from, even need, interaction with fishes.  Fishes provide nutrition as byproducts of their waste/respiration, they are also thought to assist some corals with removal of  waste/metabolites as a result of their “activity” (producing close water movement) among the corals.  The “best” tanks in my opinion, are those that strike a “balance” between corals and fishes>>
With stable water conditions and optimal temperatures, lighting, etc. these tanks were also easily maintained and experienced far fewer algae blooms. Corals themselves act as a natural filter of our aquariums and I don’t think the relevance of their abilities have been emphasized in hobby literature.
<<Indeed…very efficient at nutrient uptake…sometime to the point of nitrogen deficiency in closed systems>>
Shouldn’t it be encouraged to those who ARE maintaining the other life requirements of these animals to stock corals in their tanks above what might be considered as the minimal safe bioload?
<<Ah, so this is where this is going <grin>.  “Safe” is a relative term…if you mean stocking beyond what the system can handle…no.  A closed system thrives when it is “centered” or “balanced”…for some aquarist’s abilities/systems this may be a tank “chock-full” of life…for others…not so much>>
I understand the missing piece of the puzzle of the reef versus our aquariums is diversity.
<<A big piece yes, and for the most part impractical to replicate.  But far from “the” missing piece>>
I would not expect that nutrient rich waters could flow into my tank and that nutrient poor waters would flow out.  I would however expect that given the proper requirements for sustained health of corals in my tank that I could heavily stock a tank with corals without degrading or destabilizing the water parameters.
<<Do keep in mind aggression/allelopathy…the continual struggle for space/survival on the reef>>
As primary producers, wouldn’t a tank heavily stocked with corals utilize more of the dosed additives, foods, and wastes that we ultimately add in our pursuit to grow these animals?
<<Is the logical conclusion…>>
And if so, this would lessen the necessity of external filtration if people kept a small bioload of high waste producing inverts, fish, etc.
<<Indeed…for most of us, the reef “is” the filtration>>
Sorry for being very long with this, but I have this idea that it is possible to have a tank where the net waste is zero.
<<Mmm…have you had a look in your skimmer cup lately?>>
I believe achieving and promoting this pursuit is especially important given the current nano craze.
<<Ugh…not a nano fan.  Drives me crazy when these are promoted as “beginner” reef systems>>
Anyhow, thanks for your time and any thoughts would be appreciated.
<<A pleasure my friend…I enjoy the opportunity for contemplation, the exchange of opinion>>
Steve
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Mixing, Matching and Modifying a Stocking Plan   9/27/06
Dear WetWebMedia Crew Member,
<Scott F. on call tonight!>
  Thank you for considering, reading, and answering my questions with your "overflowing" knowledge. Yeah, yeah… I know I’m brown nosing.
<Hey, man- you said it! LOL. Thanks for the "props", anyways!>
Ok let’s get down to business.
  Lets talk about the 55 gallon main tank first.
  Lights: 48" power compacts with three to four led lights, 260 watts (comes with three switches and plug-ins to control the morning, afternoon, and night settings).
  Circulation: three model 228 Power Sweeps (with pre-filter sponges), 270gph each.
  Filtration: up to a 75 gallon aquarium (capacity) wet/dry filter sump/refugium, dimensions are 20''(length) X 8''(width) X 12''(height), refugiums capacity is 15 gallons and 635 gallons per hour, lighting for the refugium is 2 X 13 watt power compact light included with grow lights 1- 10k sunbright, and 1- actinic 420nm (blue bulbs are included), please visit this site for more information:
  http://cgi.ebay.com/75-Gallon-Aquarium-sump-refugium-wet-dry-w-skimmer_W0QQitemZ250032762144QQihZ015QQcategoryZ46310QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  Heater: Submersible Theo Heater (shuts off automatically when above water level), 200 watt, will be put in the main tank, not in the wet/dry filter.
<An excellent heater- I use this brand, myself.>
  Other Sources of Filtration: 5" DSB in the main tank and refugium, 50lbs of Fiji live rock (fully cured) in the main tank and 10lbs of live rock (fully cured) in the refugium.
  Miscellaneous: reverse osmosis system (100gpd) (water will be stored in a 55 gallon plastic trash can with lid), a Digi-Mag digital thermometer (sized for a 55 gallon aquarium) (it’s a thermometer and a magnet cleaner), a Natural Wave Timer to stimulate a natural current (used for all power heads), a Coral Life Power center to control lights and other, and a black background to bring out the colors of the aquarium.
  Water Conditions: my goals are pH 8.4 throughout the day (even though it’ll drop I’ll try to have it at that at night); 0 ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite; 400 calcium; salinity about 34 (read on an Instant Ocean hydrometer); water temperature 84-85 degrees
Fahrenheit;
<Woooww! Get that temp down to 80 degrees or less, okay? That's too warm for long term success.>
after water changes (which will be bi-weekly of 10% of the aquarium) the new water will have an added mixture of Fiji Gold Calcium Coral Reef and Live Rock Supplement (has more than just calcium, it also has other trace elements); and could you tell me what alkalinity is and its uses, how is it increased, and with what? I’ve seen it in some of the FAQs but I don’t fully understand. If there is anything I should change or add, please tell me!
<I'm a simple guy- I just use regular water changes for my "supplementation". A good brand of salt mix contains all the extra stuff that you need.>
  Now lets talk about the 30 gallon QT tank.
  Lights: I’ve decided not to QT the corals (might be a bad decision) so that I wouldn’t have to spend a lot of money on the 192 watt lights. Lighting the QT tank will be two fluorescent bulbs.
<The lighting is fine, IMO. Do consider quarantine of your corals. Just ask a number of my friends from MACNA last weekend who were suffering from flatworms on their corals as a result of NOT using quarantine.>
  Circulation: one model 228 Power Sweep (with pre-filter sponge), 270gph.
  Filtration: Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel, 400gph.
  Heater: like the one used for the 55 gallon except it’ll be 150 watts.
  Miscellaneous: pieces of PVC and a black background so that the fish can hide and feel secure.
  Description: it’ll be a bare bottom tank (no substrate).
  Water Conditions: like the 55 gallon I would like to have no 0 ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite; pH of 8.4; water temperature 84-85 degrees Fahrenheit; and salinity 34.
Get that temp down, okay? Also, remember that a quarantine tank is not a permanent feature, really. You simply set it up when you need it and break it down when you're done. Read more on this on WWM>   
  I’ll let both tanks cycle for 3 weeks with live sand and live rock in place allowing time for me to adjust all the water properties. After this I will either add all the corals at the same time or add once per week (I don’t know which is better, you tell me). Then I’ll do the same thing with the invertebrates except I know that I will only add them once per week. Finally the fish will be added but they will be put in QT for about 3 weeks then I’ll go on adding the next fish doing the same thing. Most of the specimens I want I’ve already researched on your web site, although I may go back and take notes for my own sake. This is the order everything will be added.
  Corals:
  ~Starburst Green Polyps (Pachyclavularia sp.)- placed in the middle
  ~Silver Branch Pumping Xenia Aquacultured (Xenia elongate)- placed on the bottom
  ~Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral, Brown (Sarcophyton sp.)- placed on the bottom
  ~Super Colored Polyp Colony (Zoanthus sp.)- placed at top~ Green Fluorescent Mushroom (Actinodiscus sp.)- placed at top
  ~Brain Coral, Favites (Favites sp.) OR Hammer/Anchor Coral (Euphyllia ancora)- tell me, should I get both or not? Either one would be placed on the bottom or top and would be a good distance away from the other corals.
<IN a 55, you'd want to rethink this stocking plan, IMO. You've got some pretty noxiously competitive corals there. Chemical warfare ("allelopathy") between some of these corals can be fierce, especially the Toadstool Leather and the Euphyllia, and you might lose some in the fray...Do consider specializing in one type of coral, or at least keep the variety to a minimum.>
  Invertebrates:
  ~Super Tongan Nassarius Snail (x10) (Nassarius distortus)
  ~Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
  ~Feather Duster (x2) (Sabellastarte sp.)
  Fish:
  ~Tank-Bred Ocellaris Clownfish (x2) (Amphiprion ocellaris)
  ~Firefish (x2) (Nemateleotris magnifica)
  ~Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
  ~Tank-Bred Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)
  ~AND MAYBE Kaudern’s Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni)
<I'd consider passing on the Cardinalfish and possibly the Firefish in this mix, as the Wrasse and the Angelfish might be a bit too aggressive in the confines of this sized aquarium.>
  Questions:
  ~Overall, does everything look good? In other words, do I have a good plan that is flexible and yet flawless?
<Overall, it looks good...I'd just consider rethinking your fish and coral stocking plans a bit.>
  ~In the refugium, is there enough light to have macroalgae, because I would like to have some Halimeda plants and/or some Shaving Brush plants , or would it just be ok to put it in the main aquarium?
<I'd consider placing these macroalgae in the main aquarium>
Could my fish possibly eat all the macroalgae?
<The Angel might nibble a bit..>
  ~Are the corals, invertebrates, and fish appropriate for this aquarium?
<As above- narrow it down to a few species for optimum results.>
  ~Do I have too much of a bio-load for my aquarium?
<Well, you are pushing it for a 55>
  ~What are some things I should consider changing?
<I've commented above..>
  ~Could the clownfish adopt the toadstool mushroom as a host?
<This is not a natural association, so it's impossible to say. Many Clowns won't even associate with anemones in aquaria, so it's anyone's guess..>
  ~Are all six line wrasses aggressive or are there just a few?
<Varies between individuals.>
  ~Could the two Firefish get aggressive towards each other and I’d end up with only one?
<Very likely.>
  Thank you once again,
  Howard007
<My pleasure, Howard. You've got the basis for a nice system- keep reading here on WWM! Regards, Scott F.>

Compatibility...Too Vague, Need More Info - 09/25/06
Dear Mr. Fenner
<<EricR here today>>
Compatibility
There are two lists below of Inverts and Fish, please let me know whether they can co-exist.  If not please let me know which ones can co-exist with which ones.
List 1 (Only Inverts)
Dancing Shrimps, Cleaner Shrimps, Sea Stars (Red Knobbed), Bubble-tip Anemone & Feather Dusters.
Will the above list of animals co-exit?
<<The Dancing shrimp pose a threat to all...the Red Knobbed starfish may be a threat to the Feather Dusters...the rest would co-exist fine>>
Are dancing shrimps more aggressive than other shrimps?
<<Not “all” other shrimp...but very predatory/best not kept with most other inverts/corals>>
Will they eat Red-knobbed Stars?
<<Possibly>>
List 2
Dancing Shrimps, Cleaner Shrimps, Sea Stars (Red Knobbed), Bubble-tip Anemone & Feather Dusters with Damsels, Sohal or Regal Tangs, Clowns, Butterflies, Blennies & Angels
Will the above list of animals co-exist?
<<In a large enough system about anything is possible.  I can only speak in vague generalities here due to the lack of information provided.  You need to research each animal for more than just compatibility...adult size/suitability for aquarium life are also important considerations.  Research/make a list of “specific” livestock you wish to keep...provide specifics of the system you have/plan to have...and I/we will be better able to help>>
What are the cautions to take when planning to keep Feather Dusters?
<<Um...avoid fishes/inverts that eat them...discovered by researching the species “before” purchase>>
Also can Red-Sea Fish such as the Masked Butterfly co-exit with say Indian Ocean fish such as Damsels or Clowns?
<<Usually, yes...but it is much more natural, even beneficial, to group fishes from the same ocean/geographic local>>
Sorry to trouble you.  I just need to clarify this information before actually going to buy these fish.
<<No trouble, but I really do need you be a bit more “specific” before I can be much help.  And I certainly need to know about the tank/system the fish will be inhabiting.  Do some homework, gather your information, and I’ll be happy to render assistance with proper species selection...according to my opinions of course <grin> >>
Thanks in advance for your advice.  Best regards,
Rachel
<<Be chatting.  Eric Russell>& thanks again.
<Glad we could help>
Another couple of questions…
<Sure thing>
I changed out my 2 actinic lamps for 2 50/50 lamps. It appears that it has caused the tank temp to rise by a degree or so from 81 to almost 83. I've read about the different methods of tank cooling and was wondering:
1. Should I concentrate on regulating the temp from the sump?
2. What are the best ways to use the sump to regulate the temp?    
3. What is the minimum/maximum distance the PCs should be from the water surface? Currently they are about 2.5" from the water surface.
Thanks for all the help.
Daryl
<Daryl – Stability is key with temperature.  Just keep in mind the warmer the temp, the less oxygen it can hold.  Blowing a fan across your sump or the surface of the display can cool the tank a few degrees.  The height of the lights depend on if you can control the temp or not.  If nothing else helps, moving them up an inch or two will greatly affect the temp. Cheers! – Dr. J>

Re: I like microdesmids--and gobies  9/23/06
Thanks for your reply.  Here's my dream stocking plan for a peaceful community for my 120 (4'x2'x2').  I realize it may be a lot of fish--if it is too much, please point out an appropriate cutoff.  I have tried hard to make sure all my selections are compatible with each other--if I missed something, please let me know.
  2 red firefish,
  1 purple firefish,1
  3 bar gobies'
<Mmm, should work... a good square foot of bottom per microdesmid is about right>
  4 fairy wrasses (probably carpenter wrasses),
    I also would like to have a yellow tang and a dwarf angel (coral beauty)
  (Would either frighten the other smaller fish?  Would it be a problem if I added these first or should these two go in last.)
<I'd place the Tang and Centropyge last>
  1 mandarin dragonette,
  1 yellow-headed jawfish,
  1 neon goby,
  1 shrimp goby (Amblyeleotris sp., depending on local availability) and associated pistol shrimp,
  1 midas blenny,
  2-4 clown gobies,
  and a 2nd goby/shrimp pair.  Could I have 2 pairs of either the same or different species in this tank?
   <Mmm, could, yes>
  This seems like a lot of fish to me, but they are mostly small.  If I have gotten carried away, please let me know which fish should be my last?  If I could fit any more fish, please let me know.
     Also, what is the general life expectancy of the smaller fish (10 years, or more like 2 or 3 years?)
   <A handful of years>
  The rest of my livestock will include:
  Diadema urchin,
  tuxedo urchin,
  shrimp (haven't determined which, probably a coral banded or a colony of peppermint shrimp)
  maybe a clam, kept near the top of the tank
     Corals (4x96 lighting, probably 2x10K and 2 actinic):
  zoanthids,
  Ricordea,
  xenia,
  maybe finger leathers (would clown gobies host in them?)
  (i.e. Sarcophyton or Sinularia)
     Would a Montipora cap. (kept up near the top of the tank) or a few brain corals be poor mix with the aforementioned softies?
  <Should work>
Thanks--I really appreciate all the information on your site.  Once I get my stocking list finalized, I'll figure out the physical layout and see what you think.  Thanks again.
     Nate Terry
<Welcome Nate. Bob Fenner at MACNA in Houston>

New SW Tank 9/21/06  
Hello Guys,
<Hi>
I have been checking out your site for about a month now have found it to be very informative. <Good to hear.> Wish I would have found it when I first got into the hobby about a year ago. My question is if I have overcrowded my tank or if I am at my limit. I would like to add more fish maybe even some coral, but if I cannot then that is fine. My setup is as follows:  85 gal SW show with a CPR protein skimmer, Wet/Dry Filter with Prefilter, 1 2x65 watt powercompact with 50/50 bulbs, 3 inches of super fine sand, around 65 lbs. of live rock and 3 powerheads for circulation. The fish is as follows: 1 yellow tang, 1 coral beauty, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 true percula w/ sebae anemone, 1 sand sifter of some sort, 1 3 stripe damsel, 1 Condy anemone, 1 other type of purple looking damsel, 1 purple Dottyback, 5 snails, and 1 hermit crab. I just want to make sure that I am doing right by my fish as best as I can. Since we have a little one we are on a budget at times but this being something I have learned to love( I am slightly addicted), I try to do the best that I can. <That’s all any of us can do.>
Thanks  
Walter
<I would say you are at a good stocking level now, and would not add any more fish.  I also would recommend against adding any corals since you have anemones already, they do not do well together.>
<Chris>

Lionfish in a Reef - 09/16/06
I have a question in regards to adding a lion to a reef tank.
<<Okay>>
I know I don't have to worry about the lion messing with corals but how about my clean-up crews?
<<Is some danger of this>>
This is a 90 gallon reef by the way with about 120lbs of live rock.  I know shrimp will be inhaled, but how about hermits and
starfish.
<<Not usually bothered>>
Also, about their behavior.  I have been told that Dwarf lions are not as active swimmers as say a Volitans.  Is this true or false?
James S. Smith
<<None of the lionfish species are what I would call particularly "active".  All are generally slow-moving "stalkers" that tend to prefer calmer and less brightly-lit portions of the reef.  The Volitans lionfish will usually remain "suspended" in the water column, while the Dwarf species is often found "at rest" against the rockwork, usually in a vertical head-down posture...in my experience.  Eric Russell>>

Stocking a Biotope Tank  9/15/06
Hi All,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
Your site has been a great help, and I can't thank you enough.
<We've got some great folks here who work hard to bring it to you every day!>
I'm upgrading from a 100 gallon reef tank to a 400 gallon tank.
<Cool!>
It's being designed as a fore reef biotype with strong water flow and lighting.
<I love the idea...Biotope tanks are a pet project of mine, and a great way to go!>
I'd like to stock it as follows:
3 Yellow tailed blue tangs
15 Blue-green Chromis
2 Clown fish
2 Coral Beauty angelfish
2 Foxface
9 Dispar Anthias
Do you think this would work?
<I do think ti would work. It's a nice mix of appropriate fishes. If it were me, I'd possibly consider forgoing the sometimes finicky Anthias in favor of a colony of Assessors! They are cool little fish that really look cool in this type of environment. Alternatively, you could have a group of Royal Gramma if you like Caribbean fishes and aren't a stickler for geographic authenticity>
Regards,
Michael
<Sounds like it's going to be a nice aquarium, Michael! Best of luck- and send pics when it's up and running! Regards, Scott F.>

 

Newbie Stocking Question   9/11/06
Hi Gang,
<Hello Ron>
First off great site and very helpful.
<Thank you.>
I am new to this whole game but have gotten to the following point:
Setup:
90 Gal will be reef tank, 5' LS, 70# LR, 20 Gal sump with 10# LR, Protein Skimmer, and mixed hood with MH and FL. The tank has completed it cycle, 5 weeks in and water quality tests good. My next step is stocking aver the next 4 months and I would like feedback on my proposed mix for the fish livestock, quantity and any guidance on order that I should use. BTW, I have a 10Gal Q tank with small Can filter and 2" live sand, will that work?
<Yes, but if you have to treat the Q tank with copper, your live sand will no longer be live.  Really best to have a bare bottom with PVC pipe for
hide outs.>
Fish:
1 - Lemon Butterfly
<Although the Lemon Butterfly is a decent beginner fish, but it is really not a safe reef fish along with all species of butterfly fish.  This is also a fish you should wait on till more experience is gained.>
2 - Skunk Clown
1 - Red Tail Butterfly
<Ditto on this fish also.>
1  -Achilles Tang
<Stay away from this guy also.  Slow to acclimate and requires expert care.>
1 - Blue Hippo
<A good choice here, but you should let your tank age a couple more months before introducing.  Keep in mind that as this fish grows, your tank will be
too small to provide healthy living conditions.  They do like to swim and a four foot tank isn't going to work.>
1 - Clown Tang
<If you are referring to the lineatus specie, this falls into the same boat as the Achilles Tang.  The Sohal Tang is sometimes called a Clown
Tang which is fairly hardy but falls into the too small a tank category.>
1- Leopard wrasse
<Again, choosing difficult fish to keep.  The Black, Blue Star, Choati, and Leopard Wrasses are all difficult to maintain by the inexperienced aquarist.>
2 - Cleaner Shrimp
30 - Hermit craps (very small)
So is it to many fish?
<Too many, and too difficult for most listed.>
I have checked the compatibility and it should work, and my friend suggested the crabs for clean up.
<I suggest for starters, a few false perculas, Dottybacks, easier to keep wrasses.  Selecting difficult to keep fish will lower your interest in this hobby very quickly.  When planning fish for stocking, check the fishes hardiness in captivity along with compatibility issues and whether the fish is reef safe or not.>
Thanks
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Ron

New Marine Aquarist...Stocking Selections, Environment/Compatibility...Reading/Research - 09/10/06
Hi Crew :)
<<Hello Sandy!>>   
I am about to embark on an incredible adventure.  I have been keeping freshwater fish for a number of years.  But I have always had a soft spot for a saltwater tank.  So, I just bought myself a 60 Gallon tank....soon to be my pride & joy.
<<Ahh...much wonder/adventure ahead.  Do start reading/researching your livestock/systems beforehand>>
My question is, what type of corals will I be able to keep with the Coralife 48" Lunar AquaLight Fixture.
<<Many possibilities...and a bit of putting the cart before the horse here.  Is always bests to determine what niche of the reef you wish to replicate and then develop a stocking list from which to choose.  Once you have your list, research the animals to determine their needs and THEN acquire the lighting system necessary to support them.  As it is though, you can/should still develop a stocking plan/list, and then research each animal to determine if it will be suitable for your system>>
I have been getting many different responses. Ex: soft coral, LPSs & polyps.....which in other words "many".
<<Indeed...all possible candidates, though all not necessarily best kept in the same system>>
Could you please assist me with specifics as in what I should consider keeping?
<<Mmm...corals species with low to moderate light requirements from the same genus will do well.  Or an 85-15 mix of different genera (with similar environmental requirements) for a bit more diversity if you wish>>
I do have a wish list.......but I don't know if it will be feasible.
<<Let's take a look...>>   
Bubble coral or Pearl bubble  
Torch coral  
Hammer coral green  
Kenya tree  
Finger coral Devil's hand
<<The Devil's Hand coral is a bit noxious for this mix, but the others would be fine together in my opinion.  Do take care to space all at least 6" apart to avoid damaged from sweeper tentacles>>
Thank you in advance for your help.  Looking forward to your suggestions.
<<Sandy, successfully keeping corals has much more to do with than lighting.  Don't overlook other aspects to include water flow, feeding, toxicity/aggression, tankmates, etc..  All which comes from individually researching each specimen before acquisition.  As a new marine aquarist, you owe it to your future charges to take some time to read/study-up on reef systems...set-up, stocking, et al...here's a great place to start (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef1.htm), and do follow the associated links in blue at the top of the page>>
Sandy
Ottawa
Regards, Eric Russell, SC>>

Stocking My 150 Reef - 09/07/06
Good Afternoon.....
<<Good evening>>
I have 150 gallon reef tank , 4' x 2', and a 35 gallon sump.
<<Neat!>>
I now have a royal Gramma , zebra goby , and a coral beauty in it, and want to add 3 yellow tangs and a Pacific sailfin, all at the same time.
<<Mmm, I don't recommend this.  This tank is too small for three yellow tangs...in my opinion>>
Two dealers have told me that this will work.
<<I don't doubt>>
Your thoughts on this, and what other kinds of fish could I add at a later date... i.e.  flame angel , jeweled damsel, hippo tang?
<<My recommendation...skip the Hippo (gets very large) and two of the yellow tangs...the flame angel, damsel, and hippo tang will likely be fine>>
Also, should I have a cleaner fish in this mix as well, like the neon gobies?
<<A worthwhile addition>>
And, lastly do you like the dragon wrasse, and any type of blennies?
<<Not for reef tanks>>
Thank you so much for your time.....
Ted Stasso
<<Quite welcome, Eric Russell>>