Anemones: Inadequate Lighting, Food, Environment and Tank Mates – 12/6/07
Hi Bob,
<Hello Serina, Brenda here tonight!>
We have a 36" Coral Life Aqua Lite 96 x 2 watts, blue and white light. We have a Sebae Anemone, a Haitian Pink Tipped,
<Not enough lighting for a Sebae. Mixed species of anemones will not do well together, unless the tank is a few hundred gallons or more.>
a Serpent Sea Star, Chocolate Chip Starfish,
<Chocolate Chip Starfish are not reef safe. It needs to be separated from the anemones.>
2 Green Crabs, 1 Cleaner Shrimp, a Purple Lobster, 21 Hermit Crabs,
<Too many crabs! A Lobster is not reef safe.>
2 Ablone or albalone Snails a Yellow Tang, Foxface Tang
<A 36” tank is not big enough for Tangs.>
and a Cinnamon Clown. What we are wondering is, the lighting that we have what exactly can we put in there. For example the pretty blue clams, is the lighting intense enough or you need to have the halogens?
<You do not have nearly enough lighting for a clam. Metal Halide is best.>
Also the Seahorse.
<A Seahorse could not compete for food in the environment you have provided. It also needs live food, hatched daily.>
The other things is how much and how often to feed the anemones and our serpent sea star.
<It is posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemonefdgfaqs.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brittlestars.htm >
We tried for the first time today to tear off just a tiny piece of a shrimp (dead) and fed a little piece to each of them, they seemed to love it! I also feed Coral Accel 2 times a week. How often a week for the shrimp and for the Coral Accel? I would greatly appreciate your feedback on this. Thank you so much.
<Coral Accel is not a food that should be used for anemones and shrimp. You need to remove the anemones and find them a new home before they die. Please research the requirements of your livestock before you purchase.>
Sincerely, Serina
<Brenda>

120 FOWLR Stocking Order…(With An Eye On Going Reef?) – 12/01/07
Hello!
<<Greetings Pavlo!>>
I am putting the finishing touches on my 120 FOWLR tank (to be a reef tank in about a year if all goes well).
<<Neat!>>
I am new to this and your work has been invaluable in getting me going in what I hope is the right direction.
<<A collective effort…we’re glad you find worth in our deeds>>
Thank you for all your efforts!
<<Quite welcome>>
I have come up with a list of fish that I think will be compatible, but need help in making final choices and the order in which to stock them.
<<Okay>>
1st the system. A 120 gal tank with a 35 gal sump/refugium. AquaC EV-180 skimmer, 130-150lb live rock (not purchased yet), 2 inch sand in display tank, 4 inches in refugium w/macro algae. I am stating off FOWLR with an eye on getting into corals in about a year after the tank matures and I'm confident in keeping my water quality high and stable.
<<Very good…but do also keep this in mind when choosing your livestock. Why select non reef-compatible species only to have to “fish them out” later on, eh?>>
Now for the fish, I am hoping to have:
1 - Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) or Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosa), though I'd love to have both:
<<I have done this/this is doable in this size system…though still not without risk. Simultaneous introduction is your best option re>>
1 - Chalk Basslet (Serranus tortugarum):
<<A really neat little fish, though hails from a different ocean than your other chosen species (is an Atlantic species). I, along with fellow crewmember ScottF, am a bit of a “biotope” snob and like to see fishes from at least the same ocean housed together, if not from the same niche/reef environment. This way poses much less risk for introducing pathogens/parasites one or the other may never have encountered before…and is just more “natural” besides>>
2 - Pajama Cardinals (Sphaeramia nematoptera):
2 - Percula Clowns - mated pair (Amphiprion percula)
Or
2 - Tomato Clowns (Amphiprion frenatus):
<<The Percs will be less troublesome…in my opinion>>
1 - Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus):
<<A very attractive deep-water species. Not a threat to your anticipated corals down the road…but may well make it difficult/impossible to house ornamental shrimps/smaller fishes>>
1 - Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavissimus):
<<Still one of the best tang species for captive care…and an industry/hobby staple>>
And either one of:
Longnose Butterfly (Forcipiger flavissimus),
Copperband Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus),
Or
Pearlscale Butterfly (Chaetodon xanthurus).
<<Either of the first two will prove more “reef-safe”…though no guarantees>>
Do you see any problems here with the mix, space (physical or emotional)?
<<I think the stocking density is fine, and only the Maroon Clowns pose any real compatibility issue among the fishes, in my opinion. And I have already stated my concerns/thoughts re reef compatibilities>>
I plan on getting some custodians - shrimp, snails, hermits for detritus cleanup and sand stirring; and as mentioned eventually corals. I know that butterflies aren't the most compatible with my future coral stock,
<<Some less-so than others>>
so I chose what I think are the more reef safe - if there is such a thing.
<<Indeed…all a matter of perspective>>
Please help with the stocking order. I'm most confused about that.
<<Hmm…Basslet, Cardinals, Hawkfish, Clowns, Tang, Butterfly, Angel(s)…with the last three being interchangeable in order of introduction>>
Thanks in advance for your help.
Pavlo
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>

Moving and improving, reef stkg.    11/14/07
Hey everyone! I hope life has been treating you all well. My fiancé and I have just moved to the central coast. We will be moving our tank over as soon as I finish the new stand for it (one that will match our furnishings and make it nice and easy to work on). I am considering using a canister filter, perhaps a Fluval 404 to run carbon in along with our wet-dry sump, I am a big fan of Chemi-Pure. I want to set up the rock work in the tank to allow for more coral. My current coral stock list is as follows;
1 Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral)
2 Caulastrea furcata one original colony and one clone from that colony (candy cane coral)
3 colonies of Zoanthids
1 colony of green star polyps growing down from the tip of a large 2" diameter Tonga branch
3 small colonies of white pom pom xenia all from one original colony
and last but not least 2 Sinularia spp. corals cream colored finger leathers. Must be clones they touch often and seem to have no problems together, one is nearly a foot tall branching nicely now, the other is nearly 8 inches tall with more finger like limbs but has concentrated more of its energy to attaching to another rock (larger than the small piece I got it on) that is a bit closer to the other leather.
The Torch coral has grown large nearly 10" in diameter for all heads combined. and I am thinking of placing it low in the aquarium (near the sand bed but not in it) in a position that it can grow in, and have space to expand but not reach out and sting other corals. I am also considering using natural barriers. ?
<Distance alone is likely best>
The 90 gallon these are in measures 48" x 18" x 24". The lighting on the system consists of 2 x 250 watt 14K Hamilton metal halides, and two 96 watt actinic Power Compacts timed for a dawn to dusk effect. I also have 4 watts of LED white lunar light for the evenings.
The main circulation pump is a Blue Line 40HDX pushing 1,270 gallons per hour, the 36" x 7" skimmer is run by a Blue Line 30 HDX at 1,100 gallons per hour, and I have a 1/10 HP JBJ Arctica titanium chiller being fed by a maxi-jet 1200 (295 gph).
The aquarium has a digital thermometer that reads in tank temp as well as ambient room temp and the probe is in the sump where the water enters from the display (on the opposite side of sump from chiller)
<Good>
I keep the tank temp between 75 and 77 degrees F. Specific gravity at 1.025 (I use a refractometer to measure) nitrates have been between .1 and .5, no ammonia, no nitrite and the PH a steady 8.4 I add calcium weekly to keep it at 420 the 3 Crocea clams, torch coral, candy cane corals and two coco worms have been using quite a bit it seems in their new growth. I am considering installing a calcium reactor in time, as well as adding / using O-Zone. I am thinking of adding 2 maxi-jet 1200's to the display (in rockwork to add current in the rockwork and aim them for the opposite sides of the tank toward one another, or to the front of the tank angled to collide with the current from the return pump (1,270 gph) which I have two 3/4" flared nozzles facing the two front corners of the tank.
The corals I want to add are;
1 Wellsophyllia radiata
1 Sarcophyton Sp. (Yellow Fiji Leather)
1 Purple Brush Gorgonian or Purple Ribbon Gorgonian
Some Ricordea would be fun too I think but I could do without it.
and possibly a Montipora plate coral
Any suggestions or warning flags you have for this set up idea would be greatly appreciated.
Brian
<Start with smaller Cnidarian colonies... Oh, and I'd like your input on a Ppt presentation I've generated and posted recently re avoiding stinging-celled life negative interactions: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
What do you think... are there elements missing? Better graphics examples you can think of? Bob Fenner>

Compatibility Question, reef     11/14/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Andy>
Thanks for the great web site. There is a lot of information here.
<Thank you.>
I have some questions about stocking/setting up my new tank. I have read so much I am confused. I think I might have missed my answer. If so I am sorry to bother you guys. I am going from a 55g to a 180g reef ready tank next week. Everything is here and ready to be set up (sump and all). All is fine with my tank I just want bigger and better. I have had my tank for approximately four years and I have had only one coral and one Damselfish fatality. And that was when I just started this great hobby. Water parameters are good and lighting is above average.
My old tank is a 55g reef tank. I have the following in this tank.
80 lbs live rock
3 to 4 inches of live sand.
Finger Leather
Tree Coral
Xenia
Brown Button polyps
Toad Stool Leather
Cabbage Leather
2 Peppermint Shrimp
2 Common Cleaner Shrimp
Several Hermit Crabs
Several snails
2 Tank Raised Clownfish
1 Dwarf Flame Angel
2 Yellow Tail Damselfish
1 Three Stripe Damselfish
1 Royal Gramma.
I plan on using as much of the LS (and more) and all of the LR (and more) in the new tank. I am going to use 50% new water and 50% of the old water. Is this ok and do I have let the tank cycle?
<This will be fine. Just be sure the new water has mixed for at least 24 hours.>
If so this is no big deal. The only big deal is I want to put the new tank in the old tanks location.
<Just went through this myself, fun times.>
Also, I want to know if the following will workout with the above mentioned fish and coral.
2 Long-Fin Banner Fish
<Will eat any tubeworms and such that you may have, and may pick at corals.>
2 Long-Nosed Butterfly Fish
<This is a 50/50 route here also. I saw reef tanks with these fish not bothering any corals and some were the corals were
eaten by these fish. Like the Banner Fish, they will devour worms and such. If I were to add a butterfly fish to my reef tank, this would be the one I would chance.>
1 Yellow Tang.
<Now would be a good time to remove the damsel. Not a good fish to have with timid fish such as the Banner and Long Nose.>
Do you have any stocking ideas for me? I plan on putting in more soft coral in the future.
<No, but do continue reading and make sure there are no compatibility issues with anything you may wish to add.>
If you need to know anything else let me know. Again great site and thanks for the help.
Respectfully submitted,
Andy

54 G reef stocking question
Hi again guys,
<Mike>
A question on stocking my 54 G reef tank with 40 lbs LR, 40 lbs LS, Wet/Dry sump, aqua c remora. I currently have 1 false Perc, 1 Royal Gramma, 2 turbo snails, 2 emerald crabs, and 6 marguerite snails. I've completed setting up my QT tank and I'm ready to add a few fish. I would like to add 1 more false Perc., a banner cardinal, and a Sixline or golden wrasse. What would be the best stocking order?
<Mmm, just the six line/Pseudocheilinus last>
Also, being that my false Perc has been in the tank about a month, is there anything I can do to reduce conflict when introducing the new one such as size selection, etc.
<If there is conflict, take out, float the established specimen in a plastic colander for a few days in the tank>
I would like to stay at about five to six small fish in my set-up. Do you think it would be too much of a bio-load to also add a blackray shrimp goby as well?
Thanks,
Mike
<S/b fine. Bob Fenner>

Stocking/Compatibility, reef  11/1/07
Dear Wonderful WWM person,
<That would be James today, Hi Diane>
I have recently upgraded my tank to a 180 from a 90 gal reef tank - Sept. 20, 2007.
<Wowsie, nice.>
In the tank I have a pair of Cinnamon Clowns (3" ea.),
<My favorite clownfish, not too aggressive and stays relatively small.>
an 8" male Bird Wrasse, a 5-6" Hippo Tang and a 5-6" Foxface.
I have a 30-40 gal refugium with a big ball of Chaetomorpha in it and some mangrove seeds growing, along with LR (several pieces of 3-4" LR rubble) and a sump (about 40 gal of water w/auto top off of RO/DI) with a MRC 2 skimmer. My Nitrates are still high, although the Ammonia, Nitrites and Phosphates read 0.
I am currently fighting the diatom epidemic with water changes and reduced lighting - (3) 140 watt VHO Actinics & (2) 175 Metal Halides.
<Typical in new set-ups.>
I am trying a Shallow Sand Bed on this tank. It also has about 150 lbs of LR placed in 2 islands at either end of the tank for lots of swimming, but plenty of hiding, room.
I have SPS, LPS, and softies in the tank. I just put 100 or so Nassarius Snails in, although I doubt they will live too long because I think the Bird Wrasse likes to eat them.
<Would not surprise me as they have pharyngeal bones in the gill area that help crush smaller shells to get at their food.>
I have a few larger snails. Although the
Nitrates are high, all the fish and corals seem to be happy & healthy.
The fish eat.
When the tank has finished cycling/post cycling, I want to add some fish. I really have my eye/heart on an Imperator Angel (juv.), but have concerns about him/her fitting in with the other fish and/or eating my corals. Could you give an opinion?
<No guarantees here. Angels are known to pick at corals, etc. I have seen angels in reef aquaria that do not bother the corals too much, and then I saw reef tanks with Pomacanthus angels that literally destroyed the corals.
It's a risky addition.>
Also, I would like to add a school of fish to the setup. My LFS has recommended Green Chromis and my Reef Club friends are recommending Anthias. I like the colors of the Anthias better, although they will be quite a bit pricier. Still, I can ask everyone for a fish for Christmas and I will have a nice little school. I have concerns about their shape and aggressiveness with the current fish in the tank. Again, could you give me some advice or opinion on this plan of action?
<Better to read here, both Part I and II. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm>
Lastly, I have been thinking that a Cleaner Wrasse or other Cleaner Fish would be a good safety addition to the tank.
<Not for long as they rarely live more than a month. Save your money.>
None of my fish have been sick in over a year, so I haven't been too worried about this, but with the addition of an angel and new fish, I am thinking the cleaner would be a good idea. A Cleaner Shrimp would be eaten upon entry, so I think it's out of the question. My concern is in the Cleaner Wrasse being eaten because it is so small compared to the tank's current residents.
<In the wild their hosts recognize these fish and their cleaning abilities and welcome their services.>
None of these livestock questions has a clear cut answer in my research, so if you could indulge me with an experienced opinion, I would be quite grateful.
<The Anthias are beautiful fish, and if this is what you desire, it's best to get a harem of females with one male, say five females/one male. They do not fare as well as individual additions.
The Bird Wrasse is really not a good candidate for a reef tank, too many nice invertebrates you won't be able to add. Do search, read/learn about fish you may be interested in, especially compatibility. You may want to consider a Flame Angel in place of the Imperator, a nice looking fish that acclimates well. James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely Yours,
Diane

White Spotted Toby in a Reef Tank? 10/26/07
Hi,
<Hi Katrina, Pufferpunk here>
I have a Hawaiian white spotted Toby and a yellow tang in my 55 gallon tank. I would like to turn this into a reef tank. I understand that I can not have starfish or shrimp. I would like to know what type of corals I can have and if I can have mushrooms, polyps or sea fans. Thank you for all of your advise.
<You never can tell with a puffer but you could start out with xenia, mushrooms (there are a lot of different species) & leathers & see what he might pick at. Then try some inexpensive zoanthids & if he leaves them alone, add some of the more colorful ones. That should make a lovely reef tank right there! I have a Valentini with all sorts of hermits, snails & shrimp. I also have frogspawn, hammers & Fungia plate with it. See this thread about a gal I know keeping 2 species of tobies in her beautiful reef tank:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7305
A 55g is not big enough for a tang. A 100 gallon or larger aquarium is necessary to provide plenty of swimming room. ~PP>
Katrina

Re: White Spotted Toby in a Reef Tank? 10/29/07
<Katrina>
Thank you for your help. I think I will go ahead and try some mushrooms and leathers. They are easy to get here where I live. The local pet store I bought my tang from said that he would be fine in my 55 gallon tank. You are like the fourth person that has said he needs more room so I'm going to go today and see if I can trade him in for credit.
<Sounds like a good idea. Remember, fish stores make money selling fish. ~PP>
Thanks, Katrina

Overstocking or..., reef   10/19/07
Dear WWM Crew
<Michael>
I have a 79 Gallon reef tank with 95 pounds of live rock, and a Yellow Surgeon, an Ocellaris, two Firefish (Decora) a Pygmy Angel (Argi)
a Clown goby, and a Lawnmower Blenny. I also have 8 Shrimps(2 Peppermint Shrimp, 2 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 3 Blood Red Fire
Shrimp and a Dancing Shrimp) 2 Sea Stars (A Linckia, Blue and a Red Sea Star Fromia Milleporella) + snails (Don't know how many they multiply, but it is mostly turbo snails) In addition i have LPS and SPS and Mushroom Corals and Polyps.
I have the following equipment: A Tunze 6000 Circulation Pump With a single controller unit, a Deltec APF 600 Protein Skimmer, A Deltec Return (HLP 5250) a Deltec Evaporation System. A Vecton 25 W UV Sterilizer. One 250W Metal Halide + two 18W T8(Blue) Aqua Connect (German Brand) Riga, and a Actinic Night light. Will it be okay to add a Royal Gramma and a Fridmani Pseudochromis to my tank?.
<Mmm, maybe... these two may well fight... with each other, and/or the Nemateleotris... I'd choose just one for now, see how this goes. Likely the Gramma... and maybe try a tank-bred/raised Fridman's down the road>
Or would that be overstocking it? (If it isn't already) Well look forward to your reply, what ever it may be, I trust you guys. Thanks.
Michael Fick
Dragør
Denmark
<Bob Fenner, California>

Fish that school in a marine tank, and Angel compatibility  10/19/07
Hey Crew,
<Darby>
I'm building up a 90-long, and hope to a mixed reef with nice pretty fish and corals when all is said and done (don't we all). It's an oddly proportioned tank, as it's 24" tall, 12" deep, and 6' long. Hopefully this will give lots of swimming space. The stand will be slightly deeper than the tank, probably around 18", in order to allow for a good sized sump/refugium (probably in the 45 gal range). I'm a bit of a fan of zoas and things that wave around, so I'll be putting in lots of zoas, xenia, star polyps, frogspawn, and Torches. Montipora, Acro, and some plate corals will probably also be making appearances.
<Do investigate all this mixing... Important what goes in what order, size, placement...>
Aquascaping will be laid out so that there are 3 different "coral heads", allowing for swimming room in-between, as well as personal hidey-hole's that are spaced out. Deep sand bed too (I would like a nice blue spotted jawfish or two). Water will be kept turbid by a big pump and a pair of SCWDs, feeding the returns into the tank via flexible hoses to that they can be repositioned at will.
Any problems with the setup so far?
<All sorts of potential ones... but I like the way you think>
For fish... well, I originally wanted a couple of small schools of small fish, but have only been able to discern (thru multiple conflicting sources) that firefish, Chromis, and anthias will school when there are more aggressive fish around, and even then they are no guaranteed to stick together. Do you know of any fish that WILL school? (or at least are most likely to school?)
<Some species are given more to shoaling together... more depending on size of the system, numbers, sexes of individuals than presence of other fish species...>
I've also just become enamored with a friends Blue-Girdled angel.
<Needs more room than this>
He's quite the perky and curious fellow, unlike their usually shy descriptions. He's also a very, very pretty fish. I plan on moving my Flame Angel into the tank, but wonder if the 2 would conflict? (probably depends upon size and temperament, right?)
<You don't have enough space>
I suppose I could introduce the B-G first, then Flame later. Of course, I'm also hoping that the B-G wouldn't pick at the corals, but there's never a guarantee there...
Other fish would be a Yellow Clown Goby, probably a Sailfin Tang or some sort (not big though), and a school of 4 small fish (hence the question above). Probably too large of a number of fish, but I'm thinking that the large sump/refugium space might help offset this.
Any advice would be appreciated.
-Darby
<I'd keep reading. Compile notes re the Systems, Compatibility... Feeding, Selection of the species you're interested in. All you list will not fit in a 90... Bob Fenner>

Re: Fish that school in a marine tank, and Angel compatibility  10/19/07
Thanks Bob.
<Welcome Darby>
You know, it's always a bit saddening when you learn that you won't be able to have the fish you desire. It's so difficult to sift the truth of system and fish compatibility from the various sources, as the majority seem to conflict, or have been copied from each other. I've read in places that Blue-Girdled Angels can be kept in 75gal systems, thrive in 90gal systems, shouldn't be kept in anything smaller than 125gal or 200gal,
<This latter as a minimum IMO>
and that they are shy, timid, energetic, personable, reclusive, aggressive free swimmers, etc. So much of that conflicts that it seems all that can really be done is to plan for the worst case scenario.
I tend to pay much more credence to your site and advice, as its much more conservative (in 2 senses).
<Ah yes... sensu dictu... We have good folks here with much personal and academic experience... level heads, and earnest desire to impart, make known what needs to be made known>
Guess I'll be sticking with fewer smaller fish, rather than a couple of big beauties.
I'll try back later when I have a more definite plan and equipment list.
-Darby
<Real good. Bob Fenner>

Stocking question... Compatibility Problems, reef   10/19/07
Hello WWM crew,
<Hi Michelle, another Michelle here with you!>
I have a 75gal with about 80 pounds of live rock and about 1inch crushed coral. I currently have a chocolate chip star, green Bahama star,
<Can/will eat most anything it can crawl on.>
2 False Percula Clowns, 1 blue/green Chromis, 1 yellow tail damsel, 1 Royal Gramma, a Snowflake Eel,
<May consume some of these tankmates!>
a LTA,
<Yikes!>
and a few hermits and snails.
I would like to add one or two more fish,
<Mmm, you mean fish food in this incompatible mix right?>
possibly a yellow tang
<Would do better in a larger tank.>
and/or a yellow head jawfish.
<You need a substrate that has a depth of at least 3-4 inches. You do not have this.>
Is my aquarium at the limit for stocking or would I be able to add the tang and/or jawfish?
<May not be at the limits depending on who is left. You really need to think more about compatibility than additions at this point. I personally would find a new home for the eel.>
If neither would be compatible what would you suggest I could add?
<I would subtract the eel... then we can think about possibilities.>
Tank stats: specific gravity- 1.022,
<Low>
pH- 8.2, nitrates-0, nitrites-0, ammonia-0.25
<Yikes!>
(I plan on doing a water change this weekend to lower ammonia),
<Good!>
phosphate-0 (I have had phosphate problems in the past and am currently running with Phosguard) and temp is 78F. Lighting is 260w 50/50 strip light with 10,000k daylight and 03 actinic.
Also, I have 1 Seio 620gph super flow pump and am planning on buying another one, what size should I buy to accommodate my tank and stock the best?
<Mmm, many variable here.>
Thank you for all your help and advice, it is very much appreciated.
<You're welcome Michelle, I would be thinking about compatibility and long-term happiness with this current system. Mich>
~Michelle

Stocking Level/Upgrade Questions, reef  10/13/07
Hi ,
<Hi Gordon>
I have a question regarding some changes I plan to make to my tank and wanted to get your input.
<OK>
Setup, (Quasi-Reef):
75 gallon tank (built-in overflow with two water returns)
20 gallon sump (Lifereef no bioballs)
36 inch Lifereef protein skimmer
2 Little Giant water pumps (model 4-MDQX-SC, 1325gph at 1 foot I'm guessing I get about 1080gph at 6 foot), skimmer and water return
Chiller (keeps the tank between 78 and 79 degrees)
Coralife power compact light with reflector (2 65 watt 10K and two Actinic)
Power heads
Stock:
100 LBS Fiji live rock
No substrate, (wife hates it when it turns green/brown/white)
<I have one of those specie (wife) also.>
Various sponges etc encrusting the live rock
3 Rose Bubble Tip Anemones
Side question here
I noticed in some of the other articles you have that my lighting might not be considered adequate for the BTA‘s. Both were about 6 inches in diameter when I bought them and they are larger now. One split and both halves are now 8 inches in diameter. The one that did not split is about 11 inches in diameter, (dominates one side of the tank, it‘s a monster). I have never seem them completely deflate and even when the tank lights go out they just close down some. Color is good; tentacles are bright rose in color, long and flowing, (they bubble up more at night). Base is white/pink; with bright green coloration throughout (esp. under actinic light) foot/trunk is pink. They have been in the tank for just over 2 years now. I also feed them pieces of silverside every 4-5 days. They readily take food and will enclose the food. The tentacles feel sticky to the touch when I feed them, (nematocyst firing?). They do occasionally move around a bit, just recently replaced my bulbs, so
I guessing that may be why as the light intensity has gone up some. Based on what I‘ve read everything seems to indicate that are healthy and doing well. What do you think?
<By your description, it sure seems like everything is going OK for you. BTA’s do not
require as intense a light as most other anemones. What you have appears to be adequate.>
2 True Percula clowns, (living in the largest BTA and one of the splits)
1 large Bi-color Angel
1 small Yellow Tail Blue Damsel
1 large Three-Stripe Damsel
<Trouble makers.>
1 Dwarf lion
6 large Turbo-grazer snails
1 large Coral Banded Shrimp
1 small polyp rock, (6 small Green Star Polyps and 10 brown Button Polyps), hopefully this will make a good starter. All are fully open and waving in the breeze.
Water parameters are all with acceptable values, except phosphate which is a little high 0.01 to 0.02, (time to change the Phosguard).
Supplements
Iodine, Strontium, Coral Calcium, Coral Vital, Selcon and buffer as needed
I feed silver sides, flakes, brine shrimp frozen, freeze dried Tubifex worms, Mysis shrimp, live brine shrimp on occasion, saltwater pellets, Formula One (frozen), Phytoplankton, powdered and liquid.
My tank has been going strong since March 1999 and I‘m finally happy with it to the point that I want to move forward with my planned growth.
Sorry to get so descriptive, just wanted to make sure you had a good overview.
<Yes, it helps.>
My plans for future expansion over the next year are as follows in the following order:
1. Add another 25-50 lbs of live rock, flat pieces to layer it down to the bottom from my two existing piles of live rock to cover most of the bare bottom. I want to add a variety of different corals/polyps etc and hopefully have them grow to cover this base rock to get a sort of flowing living carpet look. I hate the bare bottom, (ugly, but I‘m not going to win that battle with the wife).
<Too bad, a coral sand bottom does offer a haven for helpful critters to propagate along with aiding in keeping calcium and alkalinity levels up.>
I would like to include pulsing Xenia in this mix.
<A good choice and fast growing.>
Do you have any suggestions on good species to add?
<Mmm, no, not with your present lighting. Your choices seem well balanced.>
3. I think I need to add some more critters as a cleaning crew, but I‘m worried about adding too many as I don‘t want any to starve, plus I‘m concerned about buying a pre-packaged cleaner crew since I have no substrate for them to shuffle through.
<Yes, I’d just add more hermits and snails for now.>
If I get one of the packages some of the mail order houses sell I want to make sure that the species will survive in my environment. I can‘t get them locally as my LFS just doesn‘t carry that kind of quantity, nor at reasonable enough cost. What would you suggest?
<As above.>
4. I would like to add a small school of fish 4-6 I was thinking of Green Chromis, but my wife doesn‘t care for them, she thinks they are too plain. Can you suggest some alternates that will get along with their tank mates?
<There are some nice ones, but with that bar brawler (Three Striped Damsel) you have in there I wouldn’t recommend what I had in mind (Pajama Cardinals).>
I would like add the following after the above
5. One Cleaner Shrimp
6. One Royal Gramma
7. One Small clam (Derasa? Near the surface to take advantage of the light)
<Don’t think your lighting is intense enough for Tridacna Clams, and they seem to do
better on a sandy bottom.>
8. One small Blue Tang.
<I’d stay away from this guy until you have larger quarters for all these fish.>
What do you think? Is my plan too ambitious for the size of tank, experience level etc I have?
<To ambitious for the size of tank.>
I am also planning to upgrade the tank to a 90-gallon in the near future; my sump is rated to 150 gallons and skimmer to 200 gallons)
<Much better going for a longer tank than a higher one. Doesn’t make much sense to spend the money to upgrade to a 15 gallon larger tank, and all you are doing is adding height to the tank, no increase in swimming or surface area.>
I also want to add that you guys have a great site that has been of untold benefit to me ever since I got into saltwater. Keep up the good work.
<You’re welcome. Gordon, in future queries, do cap the names of fish, invertebrates and proper nouns. We just do not have the time to edit queries before they can be posted on our web site. James (Salty Dog)>
TIA
Gordon

Bio overload? Marine Stocking 10/10/07
Hi crew!
<Hello>
Quick question on bio load....I know there is a general formula for figuring out capacity but I don't believe I can get the fish to load up on a scale...haha.
<Most/all the "rules of thumb" are worthless, do not take into account true fish size, aggressiveness, incompatibilities and so on.>
I was hoping someone can tell me if I'm close to my limit. I have a 55 gal w/ 80lbs of live rock. Live stock is as follows:
4 Mithrax
1 coral banded
3 limpets
5 or 6 hermit crabs
1 coral beauty
1 ocellaris clown (tank raised)
1 firefish
2 algae conchs
2 small xenia
zoanthids 5-7 inches
1 Echinaster starfish
I also have a royal Gramma in qt which will be my last addition. Thank you!! Jennifer
<Seems like you are at a level I would be comfortable with in my own tank. My only concern here is the firefish may be bullied and suffer with such potentially aggressive tankmates, especially the Gramma which has a similar body type. Keep and eye on him and make sure he is able to feed.>
<Chris>

Re: Bio overload? Marine Stocking, Starfish 10/11/07
Chris,
Wow! Thanks for the info!
<Welcome>
After the research I did I thought the Gramma would be a good choice.
<Is a good fish for all other tankmates and tank size, just may be a problem for the firefish.>
I will definitely keep an eye on the firefish. I usually have to get her alone to feed her as it is now because the clown and the coral beauty are quite the pigs but they have not been aggressive towards her...mostly because I threaten their lives...haha!
<Haha>
On a separate note...I recently acquired a starfish and have a couple of questions:
1. I feed my fish in the morning after the lights come on ( I turn off the powerheads, which is everyone's signal they are getting fed) and my starfish will climb up the wall show me his stomach and wait for me to feed him...is this normal?
<Learned behavior, as much as a creature without a true brain can learn, I guess stimulus response is a better way to put it.>
After he is done he climbs back down and does starfish things, climbs over rocks and such.
2. How does a starfish detect light?
<They do have eyes, although not in the way we think of them. Light detecting sensory organs are located in various spots over their body.>
These are not dire questions, I was just curious. Any direction or info would be appreciated. Thanks again for all you guys do at WWM!! Jennifer
<I'm sure much more complete answers are available over the web and through most University libraries than I am able to give you. Might make an interesting article if you are willing to write it, CMA Magazine does pay you for it if it is published.>
<Chris>

Setup/stocking question - 10/07/2007
Greetings Crew!
<Ben>
I would open with a lengthy paragraph about how great the service is that you supply to the reefing community, but you already know how valuable your knowledge to the reefing masses. I will leave it at "keep up the good work"
<Hotay>
I am in the process of upgrading to a 36x30 inch "cube" tank (will be 26" tall) It will be lit by 2 four bulb T-5 Tek lights. The volume is around 125 gallons plus the sump (an additional 30 or 40 gallons of water volume) I am planning on aquascaping a number of LR patches with open swimming space in between. The feature will be a large Ritteri anemone that I have had for over a year now, most likely residing on the largest and tallest mound of LR near center.
<Neat>
I plan on doing mostly SPS in addition to the anemone. Current residents of my tank that will make the trip over are a block ocellaris clown and a starry blenny.
<Okay>
I am looking for suggestions on some other fish that would be good choices for this type of setup. I was thinking perhaps a pair of pyramid butterflies, dwarf angels, perhaps some wrasses.
<Mmm, the size, shape of this system not really good for Hemitaurichthys, or any Chaetodont for that matter>
Any suggestions as to what might be a good fit in this sort of system with the anemone in mind would be great. Perhaps keeping it an Australian reef type biotope setup?
<My best would be to go on out and take a look yourself... but barring this, a look/see of pix of Magnificent anemones... Possibly a nice small school of Anthiines... Pseudanthias squamipinnis a good choice here...
Thanks in advance,
Ben
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Reef fish stocking questions, and pH  – 10/04/07
Hi! I have a 75g reef tank that I am just now restocking after more than a year fallow. It's a long story, but I lost the will after 72g and 90g
Bowfronts blew seals on me successively, killing everything.
<Yeeikes!>
Never again will I own a bowfront. The rectangular 75g was custom made for me by Oceanic as a warranty replacement (and has the thickest silicone joints I've ever seen). I have a 20g sump, AquaC EV-120, and Korallin 1502 reactor.
Circulation is provided by an Eheim 1060 return and a Tunze Turbelle Stream in the display. There's lots of LR, 5" sand bed, 2x175w 10000K MHs with PC actinics. Salinity is 1.025 (refractometer), alkalinity is 12 dKH, calcium is 350 (Salifert), pH is 8.2 (electronic), and temp is 79-80 degrees.
Nitrate and phosphate are undetectable. I add a bit of Kalk to keep the calcium and pH up (I have another question about this below). There are
literally thousands of pods (even during the day) and massive coralline algae growth, which I attribute to the tank being more than a year old
and the reactor.
<Okay>
Right now I have 2 Banggai cardinals and several corals: Sinularia, xenia, Plerogyra, and a few mushrooms and zoanthids (amazingly, the zoanthids
survived both blowouts and more than a year in the dark). I plan on adding some more corals in the future, probably Euphyllids and possibly Montipora, but that's a ways off. I'd like to add a few more fish eventually, in the following order: a couple of ocellaris or percula clowns, a royal Gramma, and possibly a blenny (not a scooter/mandarin) or goby and a flame angel. Does this order of introduction sound OK?
<Yes>
Do you recommend a certain species of blenny or goby that will work out well?
<Posted>
And is the flame angel too much for a reef tank of this size?
<Mmm, no>
This is a long-range (6-month) plan and the next thing I buy will be a quarantine tank. Will a 12g packaged nano-style tank be sufficient provided I have a maximum of 2 fish in it at a time?
<Yes, of the species you list>
Oh, and about the pH. In my previous tanks I never had a problem maintaining 8.4 but now I'm running 8.2.
<Not a problem>
The one thought I have is that I'm only running my MH lights for 7 hours (12 hours on the actinics). If I slowly raise this to 10 hours, will I see a corresponding increase in my pH due to more photosynthesis?
<Possibly... but would likewise dip more during the dark/night>
I know the recently-added reactor might have something to do with it but I hate to mess with it after dialing it in to produce the excellent alkalinity and reasonable calcium levels I'm enjoying.
As always, thanks so much for what you do.
Ed Marshall
<I would not fool or be concerned with the pH here. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Selection, Fish Selection – 9/29/07
<Hello, Brenda here>
Just had a quick question about which readily available anemone would be the hardiest for a beginner/novice aquarist such as myself. I would like to put it into a well established (10+ month) 55 gallon.
<Bubble Tip Anemone (BTA) is the hardiest, but still considered delicate.>
I have 1-96w 10000k PC, and 1-96w actinic PC. The tank is 18 inches deep.
<This lighting is not enough for a clown hosting anemone.>
I have a decent skimmer, and a canister filter which will soon be using Chemi Pure Elite. Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are always at 0, and pH is almost always 8.3-8.4. Alkalinity 200+. Everything seems to be doing great in the tank, and I’m currently setting up another tank to house my GSPs. Also, another question, I’m looking for something decently rare, somewhat hardy, that would do well in a 20g, and is reef safe. I have seen a couple of things that would make a good addition, but I would like a mated pair of something that is pretty hard to find.
<It will be tough, if not impossible to find something rare and a mated pair. Fish that breed in captivity are usually readily available. A 20 gallon tank is going to limit you more. I would check www.liveaquaria.com under “Diver’s Den” and “Collector’s Corner”. Fellow crew member Mich suggests a Helfrichi, but will be tough to even find a bonded pair.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=171&N=0 >
Thank you much!!
<You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Reef stkg.  9/27/07
OK here Goes....thanks in advance for the advice.
My Tank 65Gal w 62lbs LR
1 Maroon clown 3"
1 Regal Tang 3-4"
2 Firefish 2"each
2 Blue Damsels (plays well with others surprisingly) 1" each
2 Fish whose species i cant remember they are pink with Yellow backs Maybe Anthias??1.5-2" each
<Ugh, you need to know what fish you have in your tank. I highly recommend any of Scott Michael's books on marine aquarium fish.>
1 Linckia laevigata (blue starfish) 6" across
1 Blood shrimp med size
3 Peppermint Shrimp (very small)
2 small sandsifter starfish?? they are reddish brown
<If they're the sandsifter stars I'm thinking of, they are a poor livestock choice indeed. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sndsftstrfaqs.htm>
1 crocea Clam
1 Bubble tip Small
1 Pearl Bubble
NHO3 = 0
PH = 8.2
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate 0-5
Temp 78F
Lighting is 2X96W Dual daylight and dual actinic 10,000k daylight lamp
OK Questions
1. Is my lighting sufficient?
<Anemones usually need more lighting (metal halide would be best).>
2. Is my tank overcrowded? I was hoping to add a few more small corals and maybe one slightly larger fish that will roam the tank more often.
<Yes. A 65g tank is much too small for an adult regal tang. Also, your damsels may become more aggressive as they get older. And the maroon clown will most certainly become very aggressive.>
If I can add....what might you recommend (fish-wise) what would you avoid (coral-wise)
<Bannerfish could have been an excellent choice (specifically Heniochus diphreutes, not Heniochus acuminatus), http://www.wetwebmedia.com/heniochu.htm. Unfortunately, you can't add them now that your tank is already over-stocked.>
3. With this variety of tank-mates Flake food isn't nearly enough. Can you give me a recommended diet/schedule?
<Correct, flake food alone is not enough for marine fish. Chopped meaty seafoods, Mysid shrimp, krill, Cyclop-eeze, etc. are all good. If you can find it, Rod's Food is excellent. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/feeding.htm>
Thanks for all your help.
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Capacity? Reef stkg.   9/23/07
Hello,
I have a 55 gallon aquarium with a 30 gallon sump, a huge protein skimmer (not sure the brand), a penguin 170 and 330 (in the sump) hang on filters as well as the basket of filter media in my sump. I am new to the reef aquarium hobby, but have kept fish for over ten years (mostly fresh but some marine). My ammonia and nitrite levels are 0ppm and all other water specs seem to be in good standing. The current residents are:
100 lbs LR
40 Lbs live sand
a pr. of scooter blennies
midas blenny (love this fish! actually stole away in a piece of rock I bought from LFS)
false percula clown
blue damsel
yellow tang ( I know it needs a bigger tank, but I bought the tank from a man who already had it in there)
Banggai cardinal
coral beauty angel
various corals
<Mmm, what species?>
CB shrimp
cleaner shrimp
and cleaner crew.
Is this too much in this tank?
<Maybe not... depends on what you mean by 'various corals'>
I have about 80 gallons of water capacity and I feel that the water is well filtered.
I also recently purchased a flame hawkfish (in QT right now). I was wandering if he would bother my mandarin in my 30 gallon tank ( I have a plethora of pods!) or should I place him in the 55.
<Will eat your shrimp in time>
I am worried about him eating my shrimp though.
<Oh!>
If I have to, I can set up another aquarium for him while he is quarantined. I have an empty 55 gallon setting around.
Thanks for your help,
Brolin
<I'd store the Hawk in the 30 for now... Bob Fenner>

Marine Stocking, GSP, Tangs in a Small Tank 9/14/07
Hi all,
<Hello>
I just had a quick question regarding stocking of my aquarium. I currently have a 65 gallon tank (36"L, 18"W, 24"H) with a 15 gallon refugium stocked with Caulerpa that I just set up (and it has already taken my nitrate levels from 20ppm to about 10ppm in two days!).
<Can work very well.>
Currently inhabiting my aquarium are: 4 Percula clownfish (about 1 1/2 inch each),
<Will likely only have 2 before too long.>
1 blue hippo tang(1.5"),
<Tank is way too small for this fish.>
1 Coral Beauty(3"),
1 green spotted puffer fish(2.5")
<Tetraodon fluviatilis? Most consider this more of a brackish fish, and gets very aggressive as it matures.>
and 2 Chromis (1"), with various snails and a few emerald crabs.
<Puffer will probably take care of these eventually.>
I was considering donating my puffer fish and the two Chromis to a friend, but I'd be sorry to see them go.
<I would say the Chromis are best suited to this tank, the puffer may benefit from a more suitable environment.>
Should I worry about my tank being overstocked?
<Absolutely, you have a volatile mix here.>
On another note, I was also considering getting rid of my puffer fish because I hoped to get some coral in the near future, and heard they have a nasty habit of eating them, would this be a good idea then?
<Yes>
Thanks for your time, you guys are great!
Dan
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Tank Upgrade/Equipment Additions/Stocking Choices, Reef  – 09/13/07
Hi there!
<<Howdy!>>
I have searched and read and searched some more, and by now I feel pretty overloaded with the information out there, but my questions still aren't all answered...so please help!
<<I shall make an attempt…>>
(and I apologize in advance for the length of this email).
<<Mmm, is about 8:30pm in my part of the world…Ah well, no worries…I hear sleep is overrated anyway…>>
First - I recently purchased an Aqua-C Remora to replace the SeaClone – am ABSOLUTELY ECSTATIC about it!
<<Indeed! A huge improvement/upgrade>>
Great research on your website to help me make the purchase - thank you!
<<A yes…the AquaC skimmers are great products>>
I will be selling it to a friend of mine for her 29-gallon tank when mine has been transferred... I am looking at upgrading my 29-tall to a 92 gallon corner tank (48Lx34x24H, no predrilled holes).
<<Excellent…but do consider drilling this tank if at all possible…you will experience an increase in functionality/reliability similar to what you experienced with the skimmer upgrade>>
I have previously sent pictures of my 29-gal., but what I currently have in the tank to move over is (and I know it's a mix, which I may have to reduce in variety some, but that's my next step - would love suggestions of what should not be in this group - I bought on looks, then did research...mistake, I know...that's why I am reading Eric Borneman and Julian Sprung to ID and weed, but at some point my brain goes into overload!):
<<I’ll be happy to proffer my opinion>>
- 2 small Acroporas (one was a rescue - very happy)
- 2 pieces (started as one) of encrusting Montipora
- 1 - looks like a pink Montipora - has a crab living in it
- An orange Fungia (very happy - but would love more room!)
- A Caulastrea
- 2 different Favia (one was a rescue - happily regrowing!)
- A pink/purple Acanthastrea
- A Lobophyllia (a rescue - seems very happy)
- A Turbinaria
- Some Clavularia (started with one polyp, now have 4)
- A patch briareum (not rapidly growing, but not dying back)
- Some Pachyclavularia violacea
- A Sarcophyton
- Assorted polyps and a healthy collection of mushrooms
- A feather duster
- 2 unknown anemones (friend brought from the Atlantic 2 years ago, were in QT, happy)
- A purple tang, a bicolor blenny, and a small six-line wrasse
- A gray serpent star, a red sea star, and 2 cleaner shrimp
- Assorted snails, hermit crabs, etc.
- DSB - about 3.5 inches
- LR - between 2-3 years old
<<Okay…I do have some suggestions for your “long-term” success re this collection of livestock…The fish are fine, but be aware the Blenny “may” nip at sessile inverts and the Wrasse “will” become very aggressive/territorial making it difficult to add more fishes of similar size/genera… As for the corals…I suggest you either go with everything down to and including the Turbinaria, or go with everything after the Turbinaria but exclude the anemones altogether… The other assorted organisms (Feather Duster, Stars, Shrimp, Snails, Crabs, etc.) can go with either selection>>
Now my questions are (based on this web site, other websites, CMA, Reef Invertebrates, John Tullock's book, Eric Borneman's book, my LFS (whom I discuss things with but don't always agree with) ... you get the idea).
<<Yes…and “goodonya” for utilizing a wide selection of resources>>
Not having had one with my 29, the question of a sump has me really concerned and stumped on some issues:
<<Is very simple…adding a sump benefits the system with added volume and provides precious space for ancillary equipment…both can be/are of huge benefit>>
I am currently still doing some prep work with the tank and stand (coat the stand some more, paint the back of the tank so you can't see through it, clean the tank, pad the floor underneath the stand, etc.). Next, I plan to fill it. So Q1 is: - When I set up the tank, I will be using new sand - I am afraid of disturbing too much of my current sand and releasing things from the lower, anaerobic reaches.
<<Mmm, I hear this often…but have found that in healthy/properly maintained systems this is not an issue…especially when setting up/cycling a new system In the least…you can use a goodly portion of this sand to “seed” the new bed>>
But I want to use it to seed the new tank.
<<Ah yes!>>
Do I just skim sand off the top 1/2 inch of my current tank?
<<Can do it this way, yes>>
Or is it safe to go deeper?
<<In my opinion and experience this too is possible>>
I have read of people who take their old sand and rinse it with a garden hose until it runs clear before putting it in a new tank - but doesn't that defeat the purpose of "live" sand being used to seed the new tank?
<<Indeed it does>>
Q2 - Because I would like to get the cycling process started (I really get the impression everyone in my tank would like the new tank better - those soulful looks from the fish, you know), I want to see in what order I need the hardware. I know I need a light (my new light is a 24" Outer Orbit HQI/T5HO - I currently have the 24" Satellite from Current), heater and a protein skimmer (looking at another Aqua-C); I also want to get a sump and a refugium.
<<Excellent!>>
However, do I need those last 2 in order to start the water cycling?
<<You don’t…but do get the refugium installed/populating as quickly as possible>>
Do you have a preference for a pre-fab sump, or are there some I need to watch out for?
<<Is only “my” opinion…but I think the pre-fab commercial sumps are highly overrated and over-priced. You can save a large amount of money (to be spent elsewhere/on other equipment) by “modifying” a “regular” aquarium for your sump. Installing baffles is really quite simple, especially when using this method (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm)>>
Or could I literally start out with a Rubbermaid tub as a sump and go from there?
<<Many have chosen this route too…>>
I understand that ideally, I want the refugium portion of the sump to be about 20% of my tank volume - so I need to have an almost 20 gal. refugium?
<<Mmm, go as big as you can…but “ideally,” the refugium would be “at least” as large as the display. Get the picture? [grin]>>
Or can I get the Aqua-C Remora Pro HOT skimmer, and when I am ready to add the sump, it will not have the skimmer on it - or maybe I can have the skimmer hang on the side of the sump instead of the tank (don't know if this is feasible - just an idea).
<<Hang-on skimmers don’t usually work well on sumps due to the lower water level required to allow the sump to handle all transient water volume when the pump is off…at least not without upgrading to a larger pump on the skimmer>>
Next, I will let the sand cycle some. I know LR will help, so here is Q3: - I am about to purchase some live rock from someone nearby who has broken down her tank. Her comment about her LR is "most of the rock, half or more, is Fiji, about 5yrs old, the rest is coral, from Florida, before it closed.
<<Okay>>
It is I believe in good condition, the water has been maintained. The rock is the only reason I have kept the tank up. It has been there about 3 yrs. I had it in larger tanks for years. I still plan on looking at it - but would it be too old (you mention that it is good to add new rocks every so often) for my system, or is the fact it's going to change systems and be with different LR a good thing?
<<As mentioned, it is a good idea to periodically infuse “new” live rock in to the system to replace consumed Earth/bio elements and to replenish fauna…and setting up/moving to a new tank is a perfect opportunity to add this new rock>>
I would replace some of my lower pieces with no corals with some of these when I set up the new tank, if I like the shapes - I would assume a QT in a tub of warm salt water with a good powerhead for 3-4 weeks should do it, based on what I have read...yes?
<<Yes>>
Also, my LFS has been curing a huge piece of dead staghorn he thinks would be cool for my tank- it looks really nice from the shape; would it be good as well? I like the look of it...
<<Should be fine…but do be careful not to add “too much” rock so as to leave little room for the fishes to swim/for water to circulate properly>>
Next, about returning water to the tank, comes Q4: - When I return the water from the sump, would it make sense to use a "water system" (Drs. Foster and Smith name - showed it in their catalog - long tube that goes down in the tank, has T's that let you put an "exhaust" for spewing out water on it so that you can direct the water in various directions - similar to pointing powerheads in various directions, but it is at depth) to return the water to my tank, then use power heads closer to the top for more water circulation?
<<Mmm, yes…this can be as simple or as complex as you choose to make it…but what you propose can certainly work>>
I was thinking this from the point of cleaning (if I don't have the powerheads too deep, they are easier to clean), but I also to get water flow at depth.
<<Indeed, adequate water flow throughout the entire tank is important>>
And I should be able to use one pump to send the water to 2 of these pipes?
<<Assuming the pump is strong enough and the overflow can handle the volume…yes>>
I know my sump will have to fit under my tank (tight squeeze!), but not an option otherwise.
<<Quite common>>
And where would you put powerheads on a corner tank?
<<Depends on the aquascaping…will likely require a bit of trial and error>>
I think the overflow would be in the back corner, and then powerheads are best located at the right and left corners, pointing towards each other?
<<This is a good plan, yes>>
You know, this reef aquarium thing is harder to do than one would think.
<<Ha! Maybe so…does require some purposeful thought/planning for sure!>>
I went through 2 protein skimmers for my 29-gal. tank until the third one was the charm - I don't want to have to do that with this bigger tank.
<<Indeed…is where taking your time/doing research pays off. My current fave skimmer is the Euro-Reef…but you won’t go wrong with an AquaC model either>>
Therefore I am trying to be cautious - sometimes I feel I am over thinking it instead!
<<Not at all…this will pay you dividends in the end>>
I apologize again for the length of the email,
<<(Yawn…) Just kidding [grin]>>
and I am relatively sure I am not completely duplicating someone else's question...and would love your inputs.
<<Hmm…all is to be found/gleaned from the site…but I am happy to share my opinion>>
Thanks tremendously again for your tremendous knowledge base, and for those going to MACNA, it's in a cool town (my husband is originally from Aliquippa, and I got to see some of Pittsburgh), so have fun.
<<Unfortunately I will not be in attendance this year>>
Kerstin DeRolf
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Fish selection... algae control... reading    9/9/07
When showing my long term fish possible fish list to some of the local reefers in the area, they recommended some type of Tang to deal with algae control (although at the moment I have just finished cycling and have had no algae problems, I am running PhosBan in a 2-littlefishies PhosBan reactor... I am not really interested in keeping a fish that size, I am more interested in keeping smaller more diverse mixes of fish rather than 2 or 3 large fish.
<Okay>
What other suggestions would you have for algae control fish that would be appropriate with my other possible fish.
Thanks alot
<No such word>
The current list of possible fish I am looking at for my 120g are as follows:
Pinkbar Goby 4" (not sure about this guy)
Cryptocentrus aurora
Six Line Wrasse 3"
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
Bicolor Pseudochromis 3"
Pseudochromis paccagnellae
Spotted Mandarin 4" (way way in the future)
Synchiropus picturatus
Blue/Green Reef Chromis 3"
Chromis viridis
Firefish, Helfrichi 2.5"
Nemateleotris helfrichi
Tail Spot Blenny 2.5"
Ecsenius STIGMATURA
Spotted Cardinalfish 3"
Sphaeramia nematoptera
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Reef System/Fish Compatibility/Introduction Order – 09/08/07
Crew,
<<Eric here>>
System is 110g (60" long) mature mixed-reef with a number of soft and stony corals, 200lbs live rock, 8 x 54w T5 lights, AquaC 240 skimmer, two Mag12 return pumps in a 55g sump.
<<Sounds very nice>>
No refugium yet but one in planning stages designed for NNR, nutrient export, plankton generation.
<<Indeed…a VERY worthwhile addition!>>
Includes two serpent stars, coral banded shrimp, half dozen crabs...those blue-legged fellas, crocea clam. No fish, yet.
<<Mmm…keeping the system fishless for 6-12 months will help to allow “sustainable” populations of small crustaceans/micro-biota to build/establish…something not usually considered/accomplished by the average hobbyist (get that refugium installed!)>>
Stocking plan and introduction order is Royal Gramma, Longnose Yellow Butterfly, Scooter Blenny, Banggai Cardinalfish, Yellow-Stripe Maroon Clown,
<<Mmm…are you sure? The clownfish will surely become a “bully” here>>
Regal Tang,
<<Too many fishes in too small a system for this active, high-strung, and very robust tang species>>
Flame Angel. Would also like to add Linckia or Fromia sea star,
<<Go with the latter…the former have dismal survival rates>>
Feather Duster Worm. My goal is to have a reasonably peaceful fish community with a lot of color.
<<Ah yes…thus the need for careful research/addition of appropriate species for the environment>>
Acknowledging the risk of the butterfly and even tang in a reef system, does this group of fish seem compatible with each other, reef safe and appropriate for size and makeup of the system?
<<Not all…as already stated>>
Introduction order seem ok?
<<Yes>>
All my study suggests this is ok but helpful to have experienced insight as I am new to the hobby having just bought someone else's complete set-up (but trading in his fish to LFS for credit since I didn't like them)
<<This “experienced” hobbyist thinks you will have trouble (sooner or later) with your current stocking plan. Regards, EricR>>

Re: Reef System/Fish Compatibility/Introduction Order - 09/10/07
Would you replace the Maroon Clown with a Percula or Percula pair?
<<A better choice re temperament, size, inclination/ability to wreak havoc in a “community” environment...yes>>
You have doubts about the Regal Tang...
<<For but the largest of home systems...indeed I do>>
would a Powder Blue be better...
<<Better, yes...best, no... These are lovely fish of moderate size, but are very demanding re their handling/care/feeding/environmental conditions>>
or do you have a suggestion?
<<A few... Acanthurus pyroferus (Mimic Tang), while not as colorful as the Powder Blue, is still very striking as an adult...Ctenochaetus tominiensis (Flame Fin Tang), hardy once acclimated, in my experience... Zebrasoma xanthurum (Purple Tang), this fish does have a disposition for developing HLLE but it can often be avoided by feeding a premium quality food such as New Life Spectrum pellets soaked in an enrichment product like Vita-Chem or Selcon...and of course, there’s the ubiquitous Zebrasoma flavescens (Yellow Tang). Any one of these would be quite suitable for your 5ft 110g display...in my opinion>>
Really like tangs so hoping to find an appropriate one for this system.
<<I understand...and is doable with care to species selection. Good luck in your quest. Regards, EricR>>

Re: Fish Identification... South Seas Devil Damselfish (Chrysiptera taupou)... Purchased and Returned... Book Recommendations – 09/08/07
Mich~
The tank is already cycled.
<Ahh, glad to hear.>
I was simply wanting a few small fish that I might be able to obtain more easily near me.
<I understand.>
The LFS near me is basically clueless.
<Many are, not sure how that is possible in this information age, but it is and I have experienced this first hand.>
I was already aware of that but it became even more apparent today. I am waiting until I can make a trip to a decent LFS before buying the clown.
<You may want to check your “local” (I use the term loosely) marine aquarium clubs to see if anyone might be breeding them.>
Essentially I have a location problem since I am in the mountains of E. KY.
<Oh, I understand this all too well I'm afraid. I live in the rather rural Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, so I can relate.>
I currently only have a Chocolate Chip Starfish,
<Not reef friendly, and typically don't do well in captivity usually dying from malnutrition.>
A camelback shrimp,
<Also not reef safe.>
and 5 turbo snails. I am hearing the dreaded when are we going to have fish lament from the family. Which is why I
thought I would add a few Chromis for now.
<Ahhh, the natives are restless.>
When I returned the devils the told me "we don't accept returns because they are live" I about died.
<Heehee! Yes is not uncommon, though most don't except dead either! ;) >
They did finally agree to exchange them.
<You were lucky.>
Now I have the blue green Chromis I originally went for.
<Good is a more suitable choice for your stated goals of a peaceful community tank.>
So here we go again.
<Yep.>
I will definitely get the books you mentioned. I am an Amazon.com employee so will check there first.
<You should find both. And they are worth the money. If you decide to do a reef set-up, I would also recommend "Aquarium Corals" by Eric Borneman. You may want to consider some other books mentioned here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/yourlibfaq2.htm >
Also is there anywhere on the WWM site that has listings for LFS?
<No I'm afraid not.>
I am having a hard time finding any that really are reputable and not just throwing some fish in the tanks for a quick sale.
<Local reef clubs can be an invaluable resource for this type of information. I do hope you might be able to find one that isn't terribly far from you. I have found participating in them quite worthwhile.>
Thanks Again,
<Welcome! Mich>
Melissa

75-Gallon Marine Wish List – 09/07/07
Hi fish crew,
<<Howdy Rick>>
Believe me, I've done hours of reading and research to come up with my "wish list" for the 75 gallon (30 gallon sump - DSB & Gracilaria) I'm presently setting up (AquaC EV120 skimmer c/w 100mg/h ozone "potential").
<<Very good to know>>
Every time I think I have my list figured out, I read an "experience" from someone with a very similar situation that didn't quite work out (of course knowing there are never guarantees).
<<Indeed>>
Therefore, I'll throw the list to you hoping for some feedback.
<<Will be my pleasure...>>
Purple Tang,
<<I consider this size tank very marginal for this fish>>
Cherub Pygmy Angel,
<<A good/hardy choice>>
(2) Ocellaris Clowns (hoping to host with a rose or maroon quadricolor),
<<Mmm...if planning to keep an anemone, this system should be modeled around this animal...i.e.- no sessile inverts, compatible/suitable fishes, exceptional water quality, etc.>>
and a Royal Gramma.
<<Another very good choice for this system/this size tank. Hmm...omit the Tang and the Clowns/Anemone (okay...about half your choices thus far [grin]) and you have the beginnings of a very nice “Atlantic” biotope system...though will take a bit more research to find/select a particular “niche” to replicate. Have you seen Richard Harker’s excellent article on replicating natural marine/reef habitats in the latest edition of Aquarium Fish International? (such articles should be required reading for all...in my opinion) If I may indulge for a moment... I believe the success of marine hobbyists would increase at a geometric rate if we would pay more attention to attempting to replicate actual/natural environments with the appropriate associated livestock, as opposed to stuffing everything that piques our interest in to a transparent box “chock-full” of rock>>
Couple Blue-Legged Hermits and maybe a small Fromia and a couple Cleaner Shrimp. Honestly, I'd prefer not to have the anemone, if I could get the clowns to host with an LPS...
<<Does happen, but is risky for the coral. The Clownfish’s attentions often cause damage to the fleshy tissue of the LPS from being abraded against sharp skeletal structures. If you decide upon a FO/FOWLR system, the Clownfish can be kept without any type of “host” organism quite well>>
I'd feel better with a few LPS in the tank as opposed to an anemone and another Cnidarian battling in only 75 gallons of space.
<<Am much in agreement>>
As always, your expertise is greatly appreciated,
<<Always happy to share my opinions...>>
Rick from Edmonton.
<<Regards, EricR from Columbia>>

Stocking, LR Diversity 9/5/07
Good evening dear Crew Member! Who draws the late shift this night?
<Evidently no one, but Chris here this morning.>
I have a couple of questions and thanks for your patience in working through these:
The first - actually concerning my favorite part of saltwater keeping - has to do with stocking, and I would like your advice. Soon, I will be moving my Rabbitfish, a Siganus unimaculatus, to larger quarters and I will replace him with 1 or 2 smaller fishes, if possible. His current environment is a 46 gallon bowfront with LR/LS. His current mates are (1) Tomato Clown, (1) 6-Line Wrasse, (1) Azure Damsel, (1) Royal Gramma, and (1) Falco's Hawkfish. This semi-aggressive group gets along amazingly well together in a very healthy system. Since I would then like to also slowly begin adding Zooanthids, mushrooms, and a few LPS corals, I would like to replace the Rabbit with 1 other "reef safe" fish, 2 at the very most. My thoughts lean towards one of my favorites, a Twinspot Hog; or perhaps one of the small Centropyge spp. that is less reef destructive, i.e. a Fisher's, Flameback, Cherub, or Resplendent Angel; or a substrate bound fish (one that can fend for himself among these residents); perhaps another moderate sized Wrasse of some sort, maybe the somewhat smaller Cortez Rainbow Wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum); and I also thought about the possibility of adding a Saddled Valentini Puffer (Canthigaster valentini) or its mimic, the Saddled Filefish (Paraluteres prionurus). There are many fishes that could have gone in first with these current inhabitants but the selection(s) is/are limited since this would be the last introduction and it must be reasonably tough. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions...perhaps something new and different that I have not thought of? Feel free to shoot holes in my proposals.
<Honestly I think you are pretty well stocked, I would stay away from the angels, while small they like fairly large territories for their size, and if you are determined to add another fish I would stick with a bottom dweller, some sort of blenny or goby perhaps.>
On a second note, this same system houses about 50 - 60 lbs. of live rock which is about 6 years old now (well...actually eons, but who's counting?). Once the 6-Line was introduced it especially drew my attention as he doesn't seem to find as much forage on the rock as I think he should; same for the Hawk, etc. I am concerned now that the LR which used to accommodate a plethora of organisms is becoming void of life. I certainly don't see the "pods" that once thrived. My nitrate level (~30 - 40 ppm) also seems to support the theory that there are not enough micro-organisms to mitigate these deleterious levels. I plan to switch out a few pieces of the older rock for some newly cured pieces to hopefully boost the biodiversity. Other steps that I am taking are to add a refugium which should be in place/running within a couple of months as well as increasing the sand bed depth from 3". I have also had some discussions with some "reefers" who suggested dosing with a liquid phytoplankton product to increase the reproduction of nitrate consuming organisms. Does this sound like a feasible solution to help restore/regenerate some life?
<Replacing some of the rock is definitely a good idea, the diversity of the rock does diminish over time for sure. A refugium will help too. As far as the adding products to help build bacterial levels, it won't help, and only make it worse. De-nitrating bacteria lives deep in rocks and sandbeds, where there is little O2, and a limited amount of suitable areas in most tanks are what limit this, not a lack of nutrients.>
As always, Thanks for your help and hard work!
David A. Bell
<Chris>

Stocking Question: 75 Gallon Reef Tank. Tang and Wrasse? Stocking Question For A 75G Reef…A Little Paranoia Can Be A Good Thing – 09/01/07
Hello Crew Member,
<<Hello Skot>>
Awesome site.
<<Thank you>>
You've turned what was potentially an expensive and frustrating hobby into a rewarding and very expensive hobby ;)
<<Ha, indeed!>>
Seriously though, your site has kept me from "giving up" through a series of unfortunate events including a leaky tank, leaky protein skimmer and suspect stand… All problems I've solved with the help of your site. Thanks.
<<We are pleased to know this>>
Now for my Question. I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank. Around 80lbs of live rock. 3 inches of sand. Euro-Reef RS 80 skimmer.
<<Good skimmer>>
30 gallon sump with refugium (incidentally I'm completely fascinated by the refugium. When my main display lights go out and the refuge lights come on I sit and stare at all the life in there. Really cool.)
<<Oh yes…much interesting life to be observed in these “protected” environments that is overlooked/not seen/even missing, in the main display tank>>
This setup is about 3 months old and I plan to make it a reef tank. A majority of the water, sand and rock are from a 1 year old 55gallon system I was running. I've got 20 misc snails and another 20 misc hermits. I purchased the Indio-Pacific Sea Farms Refugium Starter Kit about 6 weeks ago for my refugium which also contains some Miracle Mud, sand, and live rock. I’ve 2 Percula Clowns, 2 Banggai Cardinals and 1 Orange Sleeper Goby (all from my previous tank). I also have a small patch of mushrooms and a small patch of zoos. Levels are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5ppm,
<<Do strive to keep this from climbing any higher>>
79 degrees, pH 8.2, sg 1.22.
<<This last should be at NSW levels (1.025/1.026)>>
I'm paranoid about overstocking.
<<Mmm, yes…this will prove to be to your (and your livestock’s) benefit>>
There are two additional fish I have my eye on for down the line. First I'm interested in the six line wrasse.
<<Can be nasty little buggers>>
My research suggests I have room for this fish as it stays relatively small and appears compatible with my current livestock. Is my assessment correct?
<<In this instance, yes, I believe so…but addition of this wrasse will likely mean you won’t be able to add any other similarly sized/shaped fishes after it becomes established>>
Next I'm interested in a Yellow Tang.
<<Mmm…I knew there was going to be a “tang in the mix”>>
I realize my tank is the minimum recommended size for this fish.
<<Yes>>
Would it be wiser for me to steer clear of this guy?
<<Hmm…considering the size/number of tankmates, the fact you don’t have a “tank full” of rock which will allow this fish room to move around, and considering the refugium…yes, I think adding a Yellow Tang will be fine here>>
Is my tank already reaching capacity?
<<Not “right now”…but will be close once you add the tang>>
Will my additional (sump/fuge) 30gallons of water flow help provide a good home for this tang?
<<That…and the other considerations I mentioned>>
If the tang is a "no" do I have room for another smaller fish or am I at capacity?
<<Adding the tang will be fine>>
Sorry to bombard you with questions.
<<No worries>>
I've been at the hobby for a little over a year now and I consider myself a fairly disciplined person. I have no desire to irresponsibly overstock my tank or make a foolish misstep that can be avoided. Having said that, there's a whole lot I don't know.
<<Ah well then…there’s much reading/research ahead of you my friend>>
Thanks for the help,
Skot
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Re: Stocking Question For A 75G Reef…A Little Paranoia Can Be A Good Thing – 9/5/07
09/05/07
Thanks for the speedy reply Eric.
<<Quite welcome>>
I thought more on the Yellow Tang and I decided against it (I'd rather wait until I have a larger setup).
<<Okay>>
This decision led me to my LFS today to have a look at a sixline wrasse to determine if it is truly a fish I want for my tank. While I was there I saw a green wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus).
<<Ah yes...>>
Very cool fish.
<<Indeed...as are most all the Halichoeres species>>
I did some research and it appears to be compatible with my system, although it gets larger than the sixline.
<<Mmm, yes...twice as large or so...but with a better temperament/tolerance for its tankmates. And if you want something in “yellow,” do check out Halichoeres chrysus...is about half the size at maturity of H. chloropterus, vibrantly colored, and a very aquarium hardy species once acclimated in my experience (the Halichoeres wrasses can be quite sensitive to shipping stress)>>
If I was to omit the tang and the sixline could I safely get this green wrasse with a neon goby and possibly 3 to 5 blue green Chromis down the line?
<<I think so, yes...though in a 75g tank you may find the Chromis aren’t quite as peaceful among themselves as purported>>
I apologize for asking one stocking question then completely changing my plan, but my decision regarding the tang left a big hole in my agenda.
<<No worries mate. EricR>>

R2: Stocking Question For A 75G Reef…A Little Paranoia Can Be A Good Thing – 09/05/07
Thanks Eric.
<<Welcome Skot>>
I'll do some more research into possible alternatives for the Chromis.
<<Probably best>>
Any recommendations are appreciated, otherwise thanks for your time.
<<If it’s a “schooling” species you’re after, take a look at some of the more peaceable small Cardinalfishes. Sphaeramia nematoptera (Pajama Cardinalfish) and Apogon leptacanthus (Threadfin Cardinalfish) come to mind as suitable choices. And though not as “lively” both are more attractive and interesting than the Chromis, in my opinion>>
You've been a big help.
-Skot
<<Has been a pleasure. Eric Russell>>