Stocking order and capacity, reef   03/10/2008
Dear Crew,
<<G'Morning. Andrew today>>
Thanks very much for this site. I suspect it has saved thousands of fish from an early demise. I've been reading about marine fishkeeping (including your Conscientious book) for at least 5 years but finally got a tank when I had time and cash for it. My setup is a FOWLR with the following specifications: 72 gallon bowfront, about 10 gal sump with bioballs, skimmer, about 80 lbs of "pre-cured" LR, 90 lbs sugar quality aragonite sand, 700 gph Mag Drive pump, GFI, and compact fluorescents with LEDs for "moonlight." It's been curing for almost 3 weeks. "Vitals" have been stable at 78F, 1.022, pH 8.4, and nitrate 20-40ppm. No ammonia or nitrites have been detected.
<<Do I take this as your curing this in the display tank....AKA cycling?? If you are, are you using an ammonia source besides the die-off from the live rock? As you say you have not had any readings for ammonia and nitrite, I would say you need to provide an ammonia source.>>
I've got a trashcan full of heated saline in the basement, and my wife is already calling me a fish geek. The live rock seems healthy with lots of amphipods scurrying around, some small feather dusters, and some other small tube shaped worms that come out at night. I have no fish yet by my 2 year old and wife are READY . So am I. Finally to my questions.
1. Is this an ok stocking order:
Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) (4'')
Firefish/Fire Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica) (3.5")
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) (4-5")
Coral Beauty Angel (Centropyge bispinosa) (4-5") OR Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) (4-5")
Maybe Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) (8") OR Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum) (4-9")
1-2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
<<I would say, if anything regarding the tangs, I would only add a yellow tang, and even at this, I would add this with a view that an upgrade "may" be needed in the future. No problems with the clowns, Firefish, Gramma or CB / FA>>
Sorry about the truncated email. I accidentally sent it. (Damn laptops). To continue:
possibly Orange Marble Starfish (Fromia monilis)
<<Ensure the star is well fed. Read more here and linked articles and FAQ's http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seastars.htm >>
2. Is this too much life for my current tank? I understand that the Angels and/or Tangs wouldn't be appropriate for at least 6 months. I'd actually like to keep more than one clownfish or Firefish but understand this is probably too much unless I cut out and Angel and/or Tang. The LR is supposed to be from Fiji.
<<See above comments above about stocking, take note of the tang comments. If it was me, I would leave the tangs completely...Make the clowns into a pair and have the rest....>>
Thanks in advance and keep up the great work, Dr. Rich
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Fish stocking suggestions, reading   3/9/08
Hi Crew,
<Jason>
I am considering changing my fish stocking profile for my 90 gallon reef and wanted your expert feedback on some suggestions I recently received. I'm looking for colorful fish that swim around and will be compatible with my current inhabitants. Most of my current fish are real hiders, and the clowns are breeding so they are very territorial.
Here's what I have now:
Pair b/w ocellaris (spend all day in their xenia host)
5 blue Chromis (stopped schooling, now hide)
Purple Pseudochromis (loves to hide!)
Bodianus bimaculatus (fairly active)
Flame angel (comes in and out)
Lawnmower blenny
First off, the Chromis have been somewhat of a disappointment. They mainly hang out at the back of the tank in two groups (the cool kids and the rejects), though they used to swim around a lot more. I am thinking of removing them (or all but one).
<Not solitary animals>
The suggestions I've had so far are:
Zebrasoma tangs
<One>
Fairy wrasse
<More than one...>
Flasher wrasse
<Ditto...>
Genicanthus angel
Rabbitfish
Any thoughts on one or more of these, or specific species recommendations?
Thanks!
Jason
<Posted... learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Question - fish selection..
Stocking Tradeoffs, reef  – 03/08/08
Hi there!
<Hiya! Scott F. in today!>
I love your site, and have been reading long and hard in trying to decide the fish I would like to stock. However, there is an absolutely amazing collection of fish out there, and a huge variety of ways to do things, so I would like to get inputs from others to see if this fish combination would work. From what I can tell, it should - but of course my LFS is always much more enthusiastic than I necessarily am.
<Well, it's nice to have an enthusiastic LFS! However, you need to use your judgment and gut instincts to make these decisions, so I commend you for doing additional research.>
I now have a 92 gallon corner bow-front tank (moved from a 29 in mid- November) containing the following:
Fish - 1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum), 1 Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), and as of today, 1 Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor), who is scheduled to be in quarantine for the next month.
<Yaaayy! I'm thrilled to hear that you embrace the WWM "mantra" of quarantine. It's an easy, yet valuable procedure that will save you tons of heartache- and valuable animals!>
I know the Tang and Wrasse would usually be the last 2 in, but here they are the only 2 that moved from the 29...hence some of my questions.
Tank - About 60 pounds of LR, a DSB, a Tunze 9010 skimmer (I am aiming for moving it to a sump/refugium at Christmas), 1 each Hydor Koralia 2 and 3 powerheads, and a MaxiJet 1200 powerhead. and a variety of other critters - 4 Skunk Cleaner shrimp, 2 Blood Red shrimp, 1 or 2 Peppermint shrimp (they disappeared during the move, have recently reappeared), 3-4 hermit crabs (all that remains), a variety of snails (Astrea, an Olive, a Tiger Cowry, Nassarius, Ceriths, a small Conch, and several Margarita), a small blue Tuxedo Urchin, a simple gray- brown Brittle star, and 2 anemones (Eric identified them as Bunodosoma cavernata…the Warty Sea Anemone).
<That Eric guy knows his stuff, I tell ya!>
Corals - I have 2 Acroporas, 1 Stylophora, a Caulastrea, a Micromussa, 2 Fungia (1 orange, 1 green), a green Favia, an Acanthastrea, a very happy moon coral (Favites), some orange and black Tubastrea, and a small Lobophyllia (was a rescue, seems to be happy).
<A neat collection of more-or-less compatible corals...I like it. Do keep plenty of space between them, as some are a bit aggressive at night and can nettle each other.>
What I am curious about - some I have read about, some I have not...
1. Will the Blenny do well with a 3 week quarantine? Also, from everything I have read, it should get along fine with the other two fish - not the same zone, so they should mostly ignore each other, right?
<Wow- putting me on the spot, here! In theory, these fishes occupy slightly different niches and "strata" in the water column, and will not interact too much with each other. Of course, in the confines of the aquarium, the dynamic is vastly different and fishes do not always follow our behavioral expectations. If there are enough hiding places, I do not believe that you will have too many problems. However, the wrasse is known for being a bit of a tough customer at times, despite its diminutive size, so be sure to keep an eye on things. I have personally kept this wrasse with various Blennies without incident over the years.>
2. Would a Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) and a group of 3 Canary Wrasses (Halichoeres chrysus) work with these 3 fish? I understand the Centropyge should be scrappy enough to contend with the Tang and Sixline Wrasse.
<It can work, but that would be it for stocking, as far as this aquarium is concerned. At some point, the Tang might need larger quarters, or could become a behavioral problem. I'd also be aware of the potential for the Angelfish to pick at your corals. If you're willing to accept this risk (as a Centropyge fanatic, I am!), it's a nice addition.>
But I haven't been able to find anything about how the Canary Wrasse would get along with the Sixline - are they dissimilar enough to get along? I do understand that, since I had my shrimp first, the Canary Wrasse should get along fine with them as long as I feed my tank well.
<Good thinking. I maintain several Halichoeres species wrasses (including the Canary) and a Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia without any problems, although my aquarium is larger and contains lots of hiding spaces for everyone. The shrimp are a potential meal, so it's a dice role regardless, IMO.>
Other fish I had looked at and discarded for one reason or another were the Hippo Tang (tank too small, wrong shape), the Bannerfish (Heniochus family - nips at corals, gets too big), Hawkfish (like shrimp - but so do I), Chromis (just can't get excited about them), and Anthias (haven't seen smaller ones that appeal)...so you can see I have been searching. But boy, the choices can be overwhelming!
<Yes they can, but you've done a nice job!>
Next, I am curious - I recently rearranged some of my rocks so I can do several things.
1. I am going to add a modified AquaClear 110 as a HOT refugium soon...I figure that should help with copepod production.
2. I want to add some sea grass in a corner of my tank. I have found very little information about this - is this possible (my tank is 24" deep), or would the seagrass overrun my tank? I am open to reading more about it - I haven't seen much so far that says I cannot do it, but don't know who has tried it either.
<Awesome! Seagrasses are great! They will generally not overrun your aquarium, as they are rather slow growing compared to many macroalgae. Check out www.theseanursery.com for good information from seagrass expert and hobbyist Sarah Lardizabal. An established, well fertilized substrate is a good idea before attempting grasses.>
3. Once I get my copepod production up some and get the DSB more mature, can I still add a Hector's Goby (Amblygobius hectori) without overloading my bioload?
<I would avoid this fish in this situation. You will be maxed out, and the food supply will be a challenge in all but the most established aquarium for this fish, IMO.>
I would greatly appreciate your input - you are always tremendously helpful with your information, and it's useful to get input other than just what my LFS recommends. I really enjoy reading the FAQs daily...and I love the variety of opinions expressed here, since I am definitely getting the impression that there are as many ways to do this as there are people who have tanks.
<Amen!>
Thanks tremendously for your help, Writing to you from snowy and cold Kentucky, and looking forward to learning more at MACNA in Atlanta,
Kerstin:-)
<Well, Kerstin, I'll see you there! I'm doing a presentation on marine biotope aquaria, and I will touch on some of the things that we've looked at here! Hope to chat with you then! Regards, Scott F.>

Bioload Question, reef  3/7/08
Been reading the site now for about 6 months, and learned a lot from this large data base of information.
I'm currently adding livestock to a 125 reef ready tank with a 55 sump under it, got a CPR refugium (25.5" L x 4.5" W x 12" T) and also have the sump set up as a refugium also.
<Sounds good.>
Have 3 skimmers operating all the time, Red Sea Berlin venturi (I know not the greatest but was cheap), AquaC HOT (old skimmer from old tank), and a DIY skimmer from your website.
Display has a 7" DSB, sump has a 5" DSB, approximately 260 pounds of live rock. Lighting is two Icecap 400Watt Metal halide 12k Coralview lights suspended 15" above water, Icecap 660 VHO with two 10k daylight bulbs, and two blue actinics. Running the lighting 12 hours a day, with the sump having two 75 watt bulbs running the opposite 12 hours. Main question is: I plan on adding a Sailfin Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Orangefin Tang, (aware of possible fighting with tangs, will separate if becomes issue) mated pair of Maroon Clowns,
<These guys will not fit in with the rest of your choices, too aggressive.>
Flame Angel, Coral Beauty (aware of possible aggression with angels also), Yellow Head Jawfish, Black Cap Jawfish, Flame Hawk (aware is possible threat to shrimp), Royal Gramma, Green Mandarin. Plan on having several SPS, and LPSs corals, with some softies (running activated carbon on intake of sump). Do not plan on having an anemone due to not a fan of them roaming around and having a heyday with corals. Hoping to keep some clams,
<The angels may pick at the clams, reconsider.>
Long Spine Urchin, two Fire Shrimp, two cleaner shrimp, few Peppermint Shrimp. Any input on my system would be appreciated.
<Sounds OK to me seeing that you are aware of potential problems.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Daniel

55 gallon reef stocking 03/06/2008
Hi all!
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
First off, I would like to thank you for the wonderful site - i have found many answers to many questions here.
<<Thanks for the kind words>>
I currently have a 55 gallon LPS reef, with about 60 lbs of live rock, 50 lbs live sand, newly acquired ASM g1-x. My current fish stock include 2 Perculas, 5 small chromis, 2 Firefish, and various cleanup artists...My question is do i have room to ad possibly a small wrasse and some kind of
sand sifting goby?
<<Size of your tank and stocking, i would suggest not>>
Which kind of goby would be best?
I have read that certain gobies such as the orange diamond goby can wreak havoc on a DSB - what are your thoughts? By the way, nitrates stay at about 5 - 10.
I appreciate the insight,
<<I think your stocking levels are at the maximum as you currently are and would not suggest adding anymore fish>>
Scott
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>

Chlorodesmis/ DSB/ Jumping Prevention/ Echinaster starfish... reef stkg. f'   3/2/08
Hello again WWM Crew,
<RA>
Today I'm back with yet more questions that are dying to be answered. At the moment my tank is cycling, so I have been avidly researching species and thinking of different stocking plans. Anyways, here's a list of species I plan on stocking at the moment:
Fish
Paracheilinus filamentosus(5)
Nemateleotris magnifica (pair)
Stonogobiops nematodes (pair)
Cirrhitichthys falco(1)
Inverts
Nassarius distortus(8)
Cerithium sp.(10)
Trochus sp.(5)
Alpheus randalli(1)
Algae
Chlorodesmis fastigiata
Possible Additions
Cirripectes stigmaticus(1)
Stenopus hispidus (pair)
<Not with the Hawk>
Echinaster sp.(2)
Halymenia sp.
The tank is an 86.4g (48"L x 16"W x 26"T) with an approx. 2" sandbed and 125 lbs of liverock. I plan on having the Chlorodesmis grow on all of the liverock and having that instead of coral. My questions are:
1. I'm interested in herbivorous blennies. Would any edible algae grow if I have Chlorodesmis (lack of nutrients + allelopaths)? This is also a concern for my snails.
<Likely to be consumed>
I'm interested in having a remote DSB.
2. Would a DSB slow the growth rate of the Chlorodesmis (competition for nutrients)?
<Yes>
3. What is the purpose of having worms, mini stars, etc. besides to aerate the substrate?
<For your enjoyment, to complete closed processing of foods...>
4. If I don't get any of the "Possible Additions", will this setup really produce enough waste/nutrients to support both Chlorodesmis and a DSB?
<Maybe>
5. I know that wrasse and Firefish are prone to jumping. Are they too thin to be stopped by eggcrate? If so, what should I use?
<The eggcrate should work>
6. Could you please identify or at least give me some general guidelines for this Echinaster species on http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=581? I'm really interested in it.
<"Page no longer available"... likely care is identical per the genus, Order... covered on WWM>
Well, that's all I can think of right now. Thanks for reading.
TIA,
Random Aquarist
<And you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Moving Up…to a Larger Tank  2/28/08
WWM Crew,
Your website is very well done, and extremely informative.
<Thank you.>
I've been reading your site for a couple of months now trying to figure out what I want out of my reef system, or better yet what I want to go into my system. Here is what I have currently, a 20 gallon tank with a wet dry filter, 2 power heads with an under gravel filter, 20 lbs of live rock, Corallife 50/50 65watt bulb & fixture. Inhabitants include, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 sgt. major damsel 1 pink tip Haitian anemone 1med/large grape Caulerpa plant, a mix of snails and hermit crabs, 1 cleaner shrimp, and 3 peppermint shrimp. I know it sound like a lot but all of this livestock is pretty small. Which brings me to my next point. All of this livestock is small now, but will quickly out grow my tank.
<Quickly being the operative word.>
In about a month or so I am going to start up a 72 gallon bow front tank and slowly transfer everybody over. What I have been searching for is maybe a list or something of the sort of what kind of livestock, specifically, can I put in my new tank. I know that this is a broad question, and nothing in life is a sure bet.
However, I need a shove in the right direction.
First of all, I noticed that a lot of people have a different opinion of just exactly "reef safe" is. What exactly does "reef safe" mean? Does it mean: everybody gets along in the tank from fish to corals to all invertebrates, or does it mean most everybody gets along, with the exceptions of a few critters who like to take samples of their tank mates or just as long as nobody samples the corals, mushrooms, etc. everything else is fair game.
<Both definitions fit. What some consider reef safe may pick at inverts depending on the individual fish. Others are considered reef safe so long as you don’t have certain inverts in your tank (such as the shrimp). To be truly reef safe in my opinion, all should get along.>
I think you know what I'm trying to say. What kind of fish can I put into my tank that will not harm my shrimp, any future corals, my anemone, or chow down on my snails or hermit crabs.
<I hear you.>
The new tank will have plenty of light for new corals and my anemone.
<Be aware it is not a good idea to mix these.>
I have taken a whack at a few fish that I am considering; please tell me if they would make good neighbors for what I already have.
2 Hippo Tangs
<This tank is really still too small for these. Tangs require a good amount of swimming space.>
1 Magnificent Rabbit fish
<These get fairly large and fall into that hit and miss reef safe category.>
2 False percula clown fish
<Not a problem.>
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Steve Harris
<Keep reading, research each addition thoroughly as you stock this new tank. A few links are included below to get you started, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rabbitfi.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/paracant.htm

What Do I Put In Next? (Reef Stocking Questions) – 02/27/08
Hi all, and thanks.
<<Hello…and welcome>>
Without this site I doubt I'd know as much as I do now…
<<I know I wouldn’t!>>
After saying that I'm going to tell you what corals I have. Don't yell at me...
<<Um…okay>>
A friend of mine gave me a couple.
<<And twisted your arm to make you take them? [grin]>>
The tank's a 92 gal corner bow with a 30 gal sump, a 30 gal refugium, 6" deep sand bed and algae.
<<Sounds good>>
The tank is doing great - lots of macroalgae and little bugs on the glass. Here's what I have.
1) Pulsating xenia
2) Leather tree
3) Star polyp
4) Green mushrooms
O.k. so far so good… All soft yes?
<<yes>>
Now the bad.
5) A small frag of Blastomussa? (I know LPS)
6) Frogspawn (small) LPS
OK how bad is it?
<<Not “too” bad at all…and quite common within the hobby yet to create/keep this “reef garden” type of mix. Do be sure to employ some chemical filtration and a good quality skimmer>>
Do you think they'll be alright, or will I have problems?
<<With proper spacing/separation to prevent physical contact, along with the awareness and good husbandry/maintenance to deal with the inherent problems of such a mix, it is possible to keep these animals together>>
What will I have the biggest problem with and why?
<<My opinion…the softies…and due to their noxious nature/ability to malaffect the entire system very quickly>>
What would you do?
<<Add some purposeful chemical filtration…perhaps carbon and/or Poly-Filter in a canister filter>>
My friend also gave me (again don't yell) ;) A beautiful rose bubble tip anemone with a built-in Clarkii. It’s awesome!
<<Mmm, no doubt…and entirely unsuited to this mixed bag>>
And 2 clams a maxima and a Crocea.
<<Can/will be very susceptible to poisoning from the “softies”>>
7) Feather duster
8) 2 peppermint shrimp.
9) Assorted snails, emerald crab, 5 small red legged hermits.
I also need to know what order to put my fish in. Here's the list of what I would like. Please let me know your opinion as to what are good/bad and your reason.
<<Sure>>
1) Powder blue tang
<<Not a good choice. Needs a bit larger system…these fish seem very susceptible to environmental stressors which usually manifest as protozoan infections. The Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) or Scopas Tang (Zebrasoma Scopas), or a smaller Ctenochaetus species like the Kole Tang (C. strigosus) would make for better/much hardier additions, in my opinion>>
2) Angel coral beauty
<<Beautiful little fish…and the Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) would make a good alternate selection>>
3) Fridmani Pseudochromis
4) 3 small blue Chromis
5) A goby- which would you recommend- a diamond, tiger watchman or yellow watchman (or would a red spotted blenny be better) I just want something to help clean the sand.
<<Mmm, is up to you…though this can be a two-edged sword as these animals are quite prone to large disturbances of the sand bed that “can be” detrimental to the function/performance of your DSB>>
6) And if there’s room, maybe a couple of Banggai cardinals.
Again, what order should they go in?
<<I would add the Tang last, with the Pseudochromis and Angel just before…and the rest before these, though in no particular order>>
Thanks again for all your wisdom and expertise.
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Stocking a New Reef System 2/21/08
Hi,
<Hey there! Scott F. at your service!>
I wonder if you could please give me some advice. I have an Oceanic 92 gallon bowfront corner tank. This is stocked with approx 90 lbs of live rock and very little else at this point. The tank is ready to start to be stocked and I am considering my options. I want to keep it as a reef tank with corals and so my fish options are what I am concerned with at this point. My coral options will be, initially, corals on the more hardy end of the spectrum to gain experience. I am researching these now. I'll be looking at soft and leathers, mushrooms etc. no hard corals.
<Nothing at all wrong with that approach, IMO! Soft corals are interesting and beautiful.>
On the fish stocking I would like. A Kole Tang, A Scarlet Hawkfish, a Chalk Basslet and a couple or three Engineer Gobies. I would also like a
Lemon Peel Angel but am I overstocking?
<You'd be pushing it, IMO. I would omit the Angel. More importantly, the Lemon Peel, although one of my favorite fishes, is a potential coral eater/nipper, so you need to be aware of this. Other than that, I have little to criticize in your stocking plan!> I think this seems OK but would
value your advice.
<And we value your visits to WWM!>
In addition to the basics I have a 300 gph pump ( 4 foot rise - 1 inch tube for in and out feeds) - a Fluval Turboflotor 1000 protein skimmer,
an FB600 fluidized bed filter and a 3 powerhead wave system (Wavemaster pro).
Ian
<Sounds like a plan, Ian! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Stocking a New Reef System for Long-Term Success  -02/20/08
Hello
<Hi there! Scott F. in today.>
Thanks for all your help in the past. I am still in the planning stages of my setup. I have a 150g dual overflow oceanic AGA. This will be a full reef setup.
<Sounds nice!>
Next to it slightly lower will be a 150 refugium with a DSB LR and Chaeto.
One of the overflows from the display will feed the refugium.
<A good plan.>
And the other will feed the sump which will be under the tank. The sump will have a large protein skimmer still looking at brands. I have all of that set up and I think im ready to go.
<Exciting!>
Now my stocking questions.
I will be transferring the fish from my current 30g reef into this tank and using the 30 as a quarantine.
The current stock:
Cherub pygmy angel (Centropyge argi)
False Percula clown (Amphiprion ocellaris)
2-green chromis (Chromis viridis) possibly add 3 more
skunk cleaner shrimp (add 2 or 3)
Blood shrimp ( add 1 or 2)
Peppermint shrimp (add 3 to 5)
Small Blue Leg hermits
1 Turbo snail
I want to add to that
McCosker's Flasher wrasse (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)
Diadem Dottyback (Pseudochromis diadema)
<Can be a nasty one, make sure that you add him later in the stocking plan, and provide plenty of hiding places.>
Either a psychedelic or green Mandarin ( Synchiropus picturatus,
Synchiropus splendidus) mated pair if possible Is there much difference
between the two other than looks?
<There is not much difference between the two from a behavioral or husbandry standpoint, in my experience. Both require steady supplies of living foodstuffs, such as copepods and amphipods, to live healthy, happy lives. In a new system, I'd be a bit hesitant to add one. Give it several months to establish significant populations of beneficial food organisms.>
5-7 purple queen Anthias (Pseudanthias sp.)
Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora)
Possible another pygmy angel but I do not know if I want to take the risk
<It is a risk. However, if you are bringing the current Angel into the new aquarium at the same time as the new one, and if there are sufficient areas for the fishes to establish territories, AND if you choose a specimen comparable in size, AND if you are lucky...it could work. It's a real dice roll.>
Suggestions on type?
<I suppose that I'd go with another Cherub.>
Nassarius snails
a few more Turbos
That is my fish list I have not finished my coral list but do you see any problems with this?
<Other than the caveats mentioned above, I don't see any major flaws in this stocking plan.>
Also do you think my refugium will be enough to feed most of the tank I don't fully understand with the 1 to 1 ratio if the tank would be almost self sustaining?
Keith Fontes
<I think that once you get the system and refugium established, they will work well together, supplying supplemental food sources for the inhabitants of the aquarium. It will take a number of months for this to happen, however. Patience is required. In the mean time, you'll have to feed your system regularly. If you really want to create a "rich" population of living food sources in the system, consider seeding the system with populations of desired animals, and wait a month or two (or more!) before stocking with fishes! Most hobbyists would be hesitant to do this, but it is a great way to get a "head start" on the production of living food sources for your system. I've done it, and it works well! Best of luck with the new system! Regards, Scott F.>

75 Stocking, reef   2/8/08
Hello Crew:
I wanted to get your opinion on some stocking. I have discovered via trial and error that small fish are the way to go in my 75 gallon reef. I currently have Leathers and Zoa's along with some Green star polyps. I have tried all sorts of fish and am happy to report that I have found excellent homes for all of them using my local reef forum. I now have 2 Percula Clowns, an Orchid Dotty Back, a Banggai Cardinal, a Yellow Watchman Goby, an Algae Blenny, and 2 Blue Green Chromis, the third was the odd man out and didn't make it. I think I have room for a couple more Chromis and would like to bring the school up to 5 or 7, I also would like to add a couple Firefish. Based on my reading on the site I think 4 would work but I am not sure if I have the room.
<You do>
I would like to keep my tank on the "under stocked" side and am not sure if I am pushing it. The other option I have thought of is additional Cardinals but my boy is 2 years old and I am afraid that he will not take well to
the new comers. Any advice would be really appreciated regarding a good final stocking level with additions of Chromis, Firefish, and potentially Cardinals. Thank you so much for all that you do and for the advise you give.
Regards,
Craig
<What you propose should be fine... I would leave off with other Banggais as well. Bob Fenner>

What Fish Next? Reef stkg.     2/8/08
Hello WWM Crew!
<Ashley>
We have recently moved up to a 40 gallon breeder tank from a 16 gallon tank and added a Crocea clam.
<I assume you upgraded lighting also.>
Currently, we have a Percula (not a true), 2 Chromis and a Mandarin Goby (I promise he is well-fed with copepods I add on a regular basis).
<This will get expensive and not be a viable long term solution; this fish does need a larger tank.>
Over the next year, we were hoping to add one, possibly two more fish. I dearly love the clam, named him Mick Jagger, and don't want to add anything that would harm it.
<You have to love that name for a clam!>
I have read through much of your archives and would love to hear any recommendations you have. Here are the questions... Are there any Tangs you would recommend that would stay small enough for our tank?
<No>
We originally, before the clam, had planned on a Flame Angel fish since it is from the Marshall Islands where I lived as kid, but I see it gets mixed reviews especially since we want to add corals eventually.
<Yes, sometimes they work out fine in a reef, sometimes not so.>
The LFS recommended a Six-Line Wrasse, are there any other Wrasses that you might recommend?
<Maybe a Fourline wrasse, Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia But, I would skip the addition of either, they will quickly outcompete the Mandarin for food.>
My husband thinks he wants a Foxface, but I think it might be a bit big and a coral nipper?
<Yes, too large for this tank and can be a nipper.>
Thank you so much! The information you provide is enormously helpful and appreciated. I was saved several times from purchasing some less than adequate equipment for the new tank setup thanks to all of you sharing your expertise!
Ashley Nocks
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/linedwrascompfaq.htm

Reef Stocking Levels/Compatibility 2/6/08
The happy place
A question for the fish gurus, but first what I have in the tank. I have a 75G Reef tank with many corals soft to hard, 2 anemones (one Maroon Clown houses both), and 4 types of mushrooms that are practically growing out my ears. As for fish I have a Blue Tang 5", <Why cap the "Blue Tang" and not the rest of the fish names??> Lawnmower Blenny 3", 4 cardinals 2", Potters Angel 3", Maroon Clown 4", corus <Coris> Gaimard Wrasse 5", Serpentine Starfish 1'+ tip to tip, 2 urchins, some hermmies, some snails, and last but not least a 24" Snowflake Eel.
<Yikes, at the size these fish are, you are very overstocked, problems coming.>
I bought the Corus <Coris> wrasse about 10 ago, along with a second maroon that just went back in trade for the Potters Angel. The maroons did not get along at all even though they were put in together. I figured this would happen but it got too bad.
<Geez, why do it if you knew what the results would be.>
Back to the question. The wrasse did laps out front for about 4 hours, then dove in for bed. Came back out the next day and was out all day and part of the night. Came out again the next day for about 6 hours and I have not seen him since. He did get some Mysid shrimp before he vanished but it has been about a week since I have seen him.
<Did you look behind the tank. on the floor and/or elsewhere. They are notorious for jumping...if your tank is not covered.>
The second maroon I had was a real troublemaker and went after every fish in the tank. He only really attacked my other clown though.
<Yes, are semi aggressive.>
I don't think the eel or starfish would have got him.
<I wouldn't rule this out (starfish), especially a one foot specimen.>
I have had the tank up like this for 8 months and no loss of any fish, big or small. The eel gets plenty to eat as does the star. The only thing I ever lost was a seahare to the star (expensive meal). What are your thoughts on this corus <Coris> wrasse? He has got to be about ready to start his color change as others his size I have seen are just starting. Would this have anything to do with it?
<Nope.>
Everything else in the tank is happy and out front swimming all day long. What do you think???
<I think your tank is too small to house that many fish at the size they are, just increases aggression.
High organic waste levels can also be expected. The Coris Wrasse needs to be in something like a 100 gallon tank and not kept with invertebrates. Hermit Crabs, snails, etc, will soon disappear.
You may want to read here on this fish. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/coris/gaimard.htm
James (Salty Dog)>

Moving to a Bigger Tank, reef... stkg., set-up  2-1-08
Hi Bob,
<Do I look that old? ;) Mike here today, Bob is having a beer (if he's lucky...)>
Fantastic site with a TON of great information.
<Yes it is, thanks>
I Currently have a 56 gal
with LR/LS, NO coral, a few inverts (snails, arrow crab, choc chip star, and emerald crab) and of course fish. We just bought some more fish for the aquarium last week knowing we will be buying a 125 gal this coming week. The fish we have are 1 Banggai cardinal, 1 PJ cardinal, 1 maroon/gold clown, 1 blue hippo tang, and the new additions are 1 latticed butterfly, 1 coral beauty angel, 1 Twinspot goby, and 1 red knobbed starfish.
<Banggai's are schooling fish, might want to get a few more of these guys>
A lot for a 56 gal tank,
<Too small for the tang, that's for sure>
I really should have waited to get the new guys. Everyone is doing fine, but I want to keep the ball rolling on getting them into their bigger home.
<Good idea>
My question involves setting up/cycling the new 125g tank. First of all, let me mention that we are not currently happy with our current substrate (Florida crushed coral) from a purely aesthetic point of view, and want to add sand to the new tank, which I'm sure the new Twinspot will love more than the coral. My LFS suggested that with adding the new LS, my existing as well as some new LR, and also adding a live bacteria product, that I could move the fish over after 24 hours, and if I wanted to wait 1 week and monitor the water that would be better, but after 1 week it was fine. I have read the articles here on establishing the bio filter and cycling, and that time period seems a little short to me. I really don't have the space to maintain both tanks for long, but when it comes to the health of my "babies" I can manage for a couple weeks. Do you think adding what I have mentioned above, and waiting about 2 weeks and monitoring the water quality will be long enough?
<Yes, as long as all the params read appropriately...should anything go awry, Amquel+ is a lifesaver. Make sure your skimmer can handle the larger water volume, and if you don't have a skimmer, get one>
Also, they advised that by adding all three items, LR, LS, and live bacteria, that I really wont see a fluctuation in test numbers in terms of ammonia and nitrites. What SHOULD I be looking for to know that the tank is truly ready, an increase in Nitrates?
<If your ammonia and nitrites are zero, you can safely add your livestock. Monitor your water once daily for any ammonia or nitrite spikes (possible but not likely) and dose with Amquel+ or Seachem Prime to neutralize (assuming your animals are present)>
My last question is, will moving the decor and LR to the new tank, and basically leaving my livestock in a bare tank with substrate be detrimental to them? Should I leave a couple decorations and a big piece or two of LR in there until the move?
<I wouldn't even split the two - you should be fine adding the LR and fish at the same time. The LR is what's performing your biological filtration in your current aquarium anyway (unless you have another biological filter you didn't mention) and it will continue to do so in your new aquarium. Add your sand to you new aquarium, fill with saltwater of the same temp/salinity/pH, and add your rock and animals - just see above re params>
Sorry for so many questions, but I want to do this the right way and not over stress them.
<No problem>
Thank you again for such a great site and great information.
<Anytime>
Mike Parker
<M. Maddox>

Compatibility/Acclimation 1/23/08
Hello crew,
<Hello>
I know that you hear it a thousand times a day, but it's still worth saying. You are the go to site on the web for information. Any time I am ever tempted to get a fish/coral/ invert, I always check out what you have to say about it first. As you have mentioned not every published person is even remotely correct on certain issues; (granted there is always some range within what is true). Anyway onto the questions:
One of my tanks is a 30g mixed fish/reef. It has been up and running for 9 months now and doing well since I added the Remora pro skimmer- lots of hair algae before that now zero. Currently residing in the tank are:
False Percula Clowns
Coral beauty- not a nipper :)
Blue damsel
CBS <Coral Banded Shrimp?>
Hawaiian Shrimp (Saron marmoratus)
And various sps, LPSs, soft corals
I feed the tank a varied diet at least twice a day and all my parameters are within acceptable ranges.
My question is this, who bit the Coral Beauty?
<I'm betting on the Blue Damsel.>
If not as soon <?> as the bite out of the tail fin healed, another two circular bites appeared in the same location. I would assume that it was the damsel because of their notorious reputation but... Lately the clowns have been hosting a Goniopora. (I know, hard by itself, even harder with the pestering of clowns- I have noticed a bit of recession after two months) Anyway, the female has become quite protective of it's host. Is it likely that the clown could be the culprit?
<Both, as you say, this coral is difficult to keep without the Clownfish agitating it. You do not mention your lighting and this coral requires very high light levels to survive, and even at that, most will not survive long.>
Or should I go ahead and remove the damsel and see where it goes from there? The reason I ask is because I have never seen any aggression between any of the tankmates. Even when I first added the Coral Beauty two months ago, I saw no signs of discontent. Why all of a sudden?
<With you being in front of the tank, it could change the mindset of the damsel, more concerned with you than the Coral Beauty. I'd remove the damsel.>
Second question: after reading the explanation of the two ways to acclimate fish and inverts- normal and "guerrilla" I guess- I am still left with one question. What is the purpose of acclimating a specimen to your exact pH, salinity, etc. if you're just going to put them in a freshwater/ methylene blue dip for five minutes? Are you suggesting to just jump to the dip after temperature acclimation?
<I do not strive to match the pH and other parameters exactly. A pH within .1 is fine along with an SG within .001 is fine. Temperatures can be within a degree. As far as the freshwater dip, I'm really not a fan of dipping a perfectly healthy fish. Why put it through unnecessary stress, much better to quarantine a new specimen and treat only if needed. As far as acclimation, I prefer the drip method. This type of acclimation will slowly adjust all the water parameters within a safe time frame with no need to manually adjust the shipping water. There are inexpensive kits on the market now for drip acclimation.>
Thanks for your time
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Compatibility/Acclimation 1/23/08
Thanks for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
Will remove the damsel... not that it'll be anything but impossible- I'm thinking a fish trap. Not that it really matters but I'll tell you anyway.
<Yes, never easy, one reason why I research everything before I buy, because once the fish is in...you know the rest of the story.>
You mentioned lighting requirements for my Goniopora. I have a 30g high with a 4"dsb so the substrate level is essentially 20" deep. I am keeping the Goniopora right on the substrate. Lighting the tank I have a 150w HQI MH and 64w actinics x2. So this tank has 278w/ 30g= 9.2w/g. Granted this is a lot of light, but it has to go quite the distance to reach the Goniopora.
<Should be fine here with lighting. James (Salty Dog)>

Marine Stocking Questions 1-22-08
<Hi there Danny, Yunachin here.>
Basically I'm new to having a saltwater aquarium and I'd like some help with my fish selection.
<Welcome to the saltwater hobby!>
Here's my set up: 65 Gallon tank, with a Filstar-2 Canister filter, Protein skimmer, 2 power heads for circulation, a heater, 2 150w 20,000K metal halide light and a T5 Actinic.
<Nice.>
Inside I have about 70 lbs of live rock, some Tonga some Fiji and Vanuatu mixed and I am planning to go with a glass bottom.
<If you plan on having any type of corals in your tank may I recommend some aragonite versus a glass bottom. Aragonite helps buffer to an extent and can also help in the long run with denitrifying your tank and helping improve your water quality.>
I'm about a month in and am cycling with 2 Damsels (a Princess and a Yellow tail) 8 hermit crabs, 8 Trochus snails, and an emerald crab. As well, I plan to have a reef set up with some LPS and either SPS or Softies in the future.
<Here are some links for some great beginner corals: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm ; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm ;>
In addition to the 2 Damsels, the stocking list I would like to build up to over the next 6 months or so is a 4 or 6 line Wrasse, 2 Percula Clowns, and for my feature fish, a Kole Tang, Flame Angel or Copper Band Butterfly
Which of the 3 would you recommend, or do you have any better suggestions for something in the range of 5" - 8" that would fare well in my tank.
<First I do not recommend a Copperband butterfly due to the fact that getting them to eat is a very difficult task. Flame Angels are gorgeous but can be nippers of coral so you would have to watch when introducing him into your tank. Also watch for aggression and combat it by having caves and such for him to retreat to if need be. A Kole Tang would be okay to add to the tank if you choose and here is a link to check out some more information : http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ctenocha.htm ;>
I have also been told that the Damsels are not the best fish, would you recommend change if I were to find them a new home?
<Damsel fish can be extremely aggressive and because they are in the same family as clowns I would recommend removing them before adding clowns to avoid any aggression and possible deaths. It is amazing such tiny beautiful fish can have such little attitudes. Good Luck on the new set-up! –Yunachin>
Danny
 

R3: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A Biotope…Bummer) – 01/19/08 I'm following along so far! <<Excellent!>> **Ah! A convert…** No conversion from me... I merely briefly strayed from my initial purpose. :) <<Ah yes, of course>> **Hee-hee! You/your livestock will be better for it in the long term** That's #1 in my mission statement. **Listed here, along with a good article on Macrodactyla doreensis… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm** Thank you... Bookmarked for later perusal. <<Quite welcome>> **It is my opinion that a suitably-sized Halichoeres species would be a better selection for your tank than “any” of the Pseudocheilinus species. A couple of my faves are H. ornatissimus and H. chrysus… Have a look here… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeresbestart.htm** Very interesting looking fish! Bookmarked as well. <<Beautiful and comparatively peaceful wrasses...and not unknown to help with pest organisms (flat worms, Pyramidellid snails, etc.)>> **Of concern…re the inclusion/addition of the anemone** Understood. I would really like to try keep one. <<Am getting the feeling [grin]>> However, I know this may not be possible, and at any rate the decision is in the future a bit. <<Fair enough>> I like symbiotic relationships. <<Many do…quite interesting to observe>> I know that Clowns will host in other things, like some softies or LPS? <<Yes…but often to the detriment of those organisms>> Have any helpful links to other symbiont relationships that would be suitable for this sort of niche…some that may be easier on the tank in general, and the species involved? <<Hmm…perhaps a Pistol Shrimp and Shrimp Goby (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shrimpgobies.htm). Don’t misunderstand me, I think an anemone with symbiotic Clownfish make for a beautiful and immensely interesting display…I’m just stating that in the best interest for all, the tank and its other inhabitants should be geared toward/designed for the anemone>> **Ah, putty in my hands [grin]. But seriously, as much as I like my own opinions, do seek out information from other sources as well, and use your own good judgment to make your decisions** LOL…noted. Don't worry; I won't listen to you too much. <VBG> don't go getting a big head or anything. :-P <<Ha! Too late…!>> I will ultimately decide for myself after consideration of various viewpoints. <<Ah good…>> **And more simple to research** Infinitely more simple, which is a relief. **If you do this (add an anemone), I recommend allowing the Cnidarian to become acclimated/hardened before introducing the clowns as they can be pretty rough on a newly acquired, and therefore stressed, anemone** This seems to be the ‘majority’ opinion I've come upon, although I do read of the opposite, too. <<No doubt>> It seems sensible to add the more sensitive creature first so that she can adapt before being beaten up. <<Indeed>> **Indeed… Do read-up on our site re “cleanup crews”…but when utilizing a DSB I am partial to the small burrowing and detritus feeding snails such as Cerith and Nassarius species. The smaller Brittle and Serpent stars are very good detritivores, but can become hazardous to smaller fishes if/when they become large…and do avoid the Green Brittle Star altogether (genus Ophiarachna). Many folks also employ supposedly reef-safe crabs (“hermit” or otherwise), but I don’t, as I feel they are “too” opportunistic in their feeding habits** Another member of the Crabs are Evil Society… <<Mmm…yes, I suppose so…but not without reason>> I've sure noticed that not many people want to keep them in their tanks. <<Actually, my experience is just the opposite…most any reef hobbyist I know keeps crabs of some form>> They are fascinating critters, though, aren't they? <<Oh yes!>> Thanks for the suggestions. <<Welcome>> **Excellent my friend** I'm just not feeling the Allelopathy today, so it's on tomorrow’s menu. Lack of sleep caused by my kitty not feeling well during the night. Oh well. <<Can sympathize…mine thinks he needs to get me up at 3am every morning because “he” is hungry>> **Ah, I see now…still marginal for halides I think** Agreed. **Okay…do fit “as many” bulbs as you can. And keep the addition of bulbs in the short-wave (Actinic) spectrum to the very minimum** I'm starting with a 6x39 Tek Retrofit, with this bulb sequence: 2 - ATI Blue Plus, 1 - ATI True Actinic, 1 - ATI Aquablue, 1 -UV Lighting AquaSun, 1 - GE 6500K Daylight. After measuring I'm concerned that eight won't fit. If there is room remaining I will order up two more. <<Okay>> How's the bulb choice? <<Too much “blue” in my opinion Utilizing more bulbs with a lower Kelvin rating will give more output/provide more useful light spectrum…something I think you will find important to your SPS and most definitely to any anemone you try to place under this lighting>> I had a lengthy conversation with the lighting guy (reefgeek) and this is what he suggested I try for what I would like to keep. <<Apparently we disagree [grin]>> Thanks, again, Eric... We are currently getting about a foot of snow. Fun! Barb M. <<Always welcome, Barb. We to are supposed to see some “white stuff” (about an inch), but temps are in the 40s so I have my doubts. Too bad…our cats have never seen/experienced snow! Regards, EricR>> Re: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A Biotope… Bummer) – 01/18/08 <<Hi Barb…FYI- I’ve taken the excerpts of my responses you included from our previous exchange and placed them between double asterisks (**)>> **Ahh…I love it when aquarists use the “B” word! Can/will make “life” so much easier in the long term** This is what I thought! <<Yes, but you’ve strayed to the dark side [grin]. Not that reef-garden tanks can’t be kept…the majority of hobbyists do…but putting some thought toward choosing a particular “niche” on the reef to replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay big dividends in the long-term>> ** Very good…and I suggest sugar-fine aragonite for this** Yep! Planned for. <Excellent> ** No doubt, and you’re about to get another** That's why I wrote! :) <<Hope you found it useful>> **Mmm, well…so much for the biotope…** I'll say the dreaded phrase; "from what I've read". I read about this style of tank in John Tullock's Natural Reef Aquariums; Simplified Approaches to Creating Living Microcosms. <<Hmm, my reference/hobby books are currently packed-up (in the middle of renovations)>> But, as I've just opened the book I see I've mis-stated myself! Oh, geez. <<Oh?>> Well, here goes: It appears I have mixed up my purposes (but you knew that! lol)... this approach is called in the book "An Inshore Aquarium for Clown-fish". <<I still gotta say, I just don’t think mixing corals/clams with an anemone is good practice unless the tank is very large (hundreds of gallons) and the other invertebrate life well established (hardened), and the anemone is suitably isolated/separated from the sessile animals…and even then, best left to experienced hobbyists. If you really want to have that “symbiotic” experience…I recommend you study up on the species of anemone you want to keep (some are easier/better suited to captive life than others) and set up a tank just for this…along with a pair of the proper species of Clownfish>> I think with all the studying I'm doing my brain has become very confused. <<Perhaps a quiet moment with a glass of wine is in order…>> Here's what he suggests. Let's see if you agree with the approach: "for a smaller system" he suggests a pairing of tank-raised Amphiprion clarkii clownfish and a Macrodactyla doreensis. <<Good choices…though there are other suitable; and in my opinion more attractive, Clownfishes that can be kept with this anemone>> Other fish he recommends: Mandarin fish- Synchiropus splendidus or Synchiropus picturatus (added after the tank is very mature), <<I think your tank is too small for these very specialized feeders, ever…and they are also likely to become “anemone food”>> Six or Four Line Wrasse, <<Do be cautious here, these can become quite the little terror… Definitely the “last” to be added in the stocking order>> Anthias, Cardinals, Damsels, grazing Tangs (obviously I would not have all these fish, but choose from the list). <<Indeed… But this tank is too small for a Tang as well>> Sabellid worms, Giant clams such as Tridacna squamosa, T. gigas, T. crocea, Hippopus hippopus. SPS corals, with careful placement to avoid interaction with the anemone. <<Mmmm…>> No softies to mess with the anemone, <<Wise>> of which there would be one. What do you think? <<Have stated my opinions [grin]. And I still think the SPS and a clam or two would make for a great display…>> **Well Barb, I think you and I have different ideas of what “not many fish” constitutes for this tank. While this stock list is not excessive (depending on final numbers of Cardinals and Anthiines), it certainly isn’t a “light” load for this tank** I'm still learning! And, I'm teachable! << Very good, Grasshopper (imagine my best Chinese accent here). Do keep reading/researching your choices re environmental requirements, compatibility, et al… And if/when necessary…you know where to find me>> **Ah good…let’s do bandy back and forth before anything becomes “permanent” ** Yes, definitely, lets! <<Cool>> **All “pluses” here. You will also need a good quality skimmer, and some way to provide chemical filtration (canister filter or media reactor of some kind). And while we’re talking chemical filtration…while “researching/reading-up on” the other aspects of reef keeping, do a keyword search on our site and read-up on “Allelopathy” ** I have an ASM G2 skimmer with a Sedra 5000 pump. How’s that? <<Should do nicely>> I will read up on Allelopathy, which I believe has to do with chemical warfare between corals in tanks? <<Indeed, but more than just corals… Algae, sponges, many types of organisms can/will employ chemical means of defense>> The chemical filtration will help with allelopathy, I presume? <<And more…>> **Hmm, I’m a fan of metal halide for most all marine systems…but this canopy sounds too limiting/would position the lights too close to the water I think. I think overheating will be an issue…and water splashes could easily “do in” the bulbs or if present, constantly coat/obscure the shields (aside from outright failure, broken bulbs can also pose shock or fire hazards…and a broken bulb that is still burning can seriously damage livestock from excessive UV) ** The rests for the canopy could be lowered about 1-1/2in, would that make a difference? <<...? Wouldn’t this just place the bulbs even closer to the surface of the water? Or perhaps I have misunderstood>> Or, I could call the LFS and see if they will let me return it for a store credit. <<This would be my first choice>> **Even so…I think you’re best going with T5 lighting if you stick with this canopy** Okay. I think I may be inclined to return it or sell it so I can get the most effective lighting for the tank. **Ah yes, luckily winters are shorter and more temperate here in South Carolina** My son lives in NC on Topsail Island. His winters are nice, too! <<Likely a bit cooler this weekend!>> **The T5s are a viable option, though since you wish to keep clams and SPS (Acroporids I assume), I would go with 8 of the 39w lamps…six 10,000K and two Actinic** Okay, gotcha! **Too much wattage on the halides** That's what I figured when this was suggested! 'X'ed off the list. **This would be my first choice of any listed thus far…though I would be inclined to search out a different brand** Can you recommend any brands? <<Hmm, I generally “build my own” from DIY components. I suggest you visit the reef forums (ReefCentral.com/Reefs.org) and query folks there re a quality fixture>> This configuration would be good, though, for the "new" biotope I outlined above? <<Yes>> ** Mmm, will still be measured in “years” ** This is what I figured, and I am NOT considering it. **Agreed…and can cause more than heat issues, as explained** Yes, I understand. <<Ah good>> **Are we still talking about the LED fixture? ** No, the Current USA 2x150 fixture I mentioned above has 24 hour lighting... it was attractive to me for that reason. <<I see>> **Should be plenty… The T5s can be mounted individually with individual reflectors…thus allowing you to use the full measure of the canopy lid** Okay, I will look into measurement information this evening. **Have done so [grin]** Yes, you have, Thank you! <<A pleasure>> **Feel free to write back for further clarification/discussion on any of these issues. Regards, Eric Russell** And, this is my reply... Thank you very much, Eric! Barb M. <<Be chatting! EricR>> R2: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A Biotope…Bummer) – 01/19/08 <<Hi Barb!…just like the last…excerpts of my responses you included from our previous exchange placed between double asterisks (**) for clarity (I hope)>> **Yes, but you’ve strayed to the dark side [grin]. Not that reef-garden tanks can’t be kept…the majority of hobbyists do…but putting some thought toward choosing a particular “niche” on the reef to replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay big dividends in the long-term** I feel I’ve been pulled back to The Light. <<Ah! A convert…>> I do want to do the safest thing for the living beings under my care (insert Grasshopper voice here) :) <<Hee-hee! You/your livestock will be better for it in the long term>> **Perhaps a quiet moment with a glass of wine is in order…** A nice Merlot? <<A fine choice…though I’ve become partial to the fuller-bodied, woody flavor of a good Shiraz>> **Good choices…though there are other suitable; and in my opinion more attractive, Clownfishes that can be kept with this anemone** Please do tell what these other Clownfishes are. <<Listed here, along with a good article on Macrodactyla doreensis… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm >> **Do be cautious here, these can become quite the little terror… Definitely the “last” to be added in the stocking order** I understand that Wrasses can be troublesome. <<Some species more than others, yes>> I did read they can be helpful in keeping nasties from bothering clams. Is this accurate? <<It is>> Is there another suitable fish that could take the place of said Wrasse? <<It is my opinion that a suitably-sized Halichoeres species would be a better selection for your tank than “any” of the Pseudocheilinus species. A couple of my faves are H. ornatissimus and H. chrysus… Have a look here… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeresbestart.htm >> **Indeed… But this tank is too small for a Tang as well** Yep, I know that about Tangs; they need way more swimming room than this tank can provide. Wasn’t considering. <<Encouraging to know>> **Mmmm…** A murmur of agreement, or disagreement? <<Of concern…re the inclusion/addition of the anemone>> **Wise** Told you I was teachable! <<Ah, putty in my hands [grin]. But seriously, as much as I like my own opinions, do seek out information from other sources as well, and use your own good judgment to make your decisions>> **Have stated my opinions [grin]. And I still think the SPS and a clam or two would make for a great display…** I agree, and it sure makes it more simple to know what my goal is. <<And more simple to research>> I know I will need to wait probably a year (if the tank matures correctly) to actually bring an anemone home. I've read differing opinions; whether to add the clowns to the tank ahead of the anemone, or vice-versa. What would you recommend, and why? <<If you do this (add an anemone), I recommend allowing the Cnidarian to become acclimated/hardened before introducing the clowns as they can be pretty rough on a newly acquired, and therefore stressed, anemone>> Once I have cured my LR and I am ready for a CUC, what makeup of crew would you recommend for my little niche of clownfish land? Are there things you can recommend, or suggest things to stay away from? <<Indeed… Do read-up on our site re “cleanup crews”…but when utilizing a DSB I am partial to the small burrowing and detritus feeding snails such as Cerith and Nassarius species. The smaller Brittle and Serpent stars are very good detritivores, but can become hazardous to smaller fishes if/when they become large…and do avoid the Green Brittle Star altogether (genus Ophiarachna). Many folks also employ supposedly reef-safe crabs (“hermit” or otherwise), but I don’t, as I feel they are “too” opportunistic in their feeding habits>> **Very good, Grasshopper (imagine my best Chinese accent here). Do keep reading/researching your choices re environmental requirements, compatibility, et al… And if/when necessary…you know where to find me** Allelopathy is on the study menu for the weekend. <<Excellent my friend>> **And more…** Which I'll learn about this weekend... probably be back with some questions. <<Looking forward to it>> **...? Wouldn’t this just place the bulbs even closer to the surface of the water? Or perhaps I have misunderstood** If I lower the ledges in the canopy, it will ride higher on the tank…giving about 7-1/2" for the lights instead of 6". <<Ah, I see now…still marginal for halides I think>> **This would be my first choice** They <<LFS>> will take the canopy back for store credit. However, I've decided to go with T5 lighting retrofits as you suggested to use with the canopy. <<Okay…do fit “as many” bulbs as you can. And keep the addition of bulbs in the short-wave (Actinic) spectrum to the very minimum>> Thanks once again, Eric, for your guidance (said in my best Grasshopper voice) :) Barb M. <<LOL! Quite welcome, Barb! Cheers, Eric Russell>> R3: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A Biotope…Bummer) – 01/19/08 I'm following along so far! <<Excellent!>> **Ah! A convert…** No conversion from me... I merely briefly strayed from my initial purpose. :) <<Ah yes, of course>> **Hee-hee! You/your livestock will be better for it in the long term** That's #1 in my mission statement. **Listed here, along with a good article on Macrodactyla doreensis… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm** Thank you... Bookmarked for later perusal. <<Quite welcome>> **It is my opinion that a suitably-sized Halichoeres species would be a better selection for your tank than “any” of the Pseudocheilinus species. A couple of my faves are H. ornatissimus and H. chrysus… Have a look here… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeresbestart.htm** Very interesting looking fish! Bookmarked as well. <<Beautiful and comparatively peaceful wrasses...and not unknown to help with pest organisms (flat worms, Pyramidellid snails, etc.)>> **Of concern…re the inclusion/addition of the anemone** Understood. I would really like to try keep one. <<Am getting the feeling [grin]>> However, I know this may not be possible, and at any rate the decision is in the future a bit. <<Fair enough>> I like symbiotic relationships. <<Many do…quite interesting to observe>> I know that Clowns will host in other things, like some softies or LPS? <<Yes…but often to the detriment of those organisms>> Have any helpful links to other symbiont relationships that would be suitable for this sort of niche…some that may be easier on the tank in general, and the species involved? <<Hmm…perhaps a Pistol Shrimp and Shrimp Goby (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shrimpgobies.htm). Don’t misunderstand me, I think an anemone with symbiotic Clownfish make for a beautiful and immensely interesting display…I’m just stating that in the best interest for all, the tank and its other inhabitants should be geared toward/designed for the anemone>> **Ah, putty in my hands [grin]. But seriously, as much as I like my own opinions, do seek out information from other sources as well, and use your own good judgment to make your decisions** LOL…noted. Don't worry; I won't listen to you too much. <VBG> don't go getting a big head or anything. :-P <<Ha! Too late…!>> I will ultimately decide for myself after consideration of various viewpoints. <<Ah good…>> **And more simple to research** Infinitely more simple, which is a relief. **If you do this (add an anemone), I recommend allowing the Cnidarian to become acclimated/hardened before introducing the clowns as they can be pretty rough on a newly acquired, and therefore stressed, anemone** This seems to be the ‘majority’ opinion I've come upon, although I do read of the opposite, too. <<No doubt>> It seems sensible to add the more sensitive creature first so that she can adapt before being beaten up. <<Indeed>> **Indeed… Do read-up on our site re “cleanup crews”…but when utilizing a DSB I am partial to the small burrowing and detritus feeding snails such as Cerith and Nassarius species. The smaller Brittle and Serpent stars are very good detritivores, but can become hazardous to smaller fishes if/when they become large…and do avoid the Green Brittle Star altogether (genus Ophiarachna). Many folks also employ supposedly reef-safe crabs (“hermit” or otherwise), but I don’t, as I feel they are “too” opportunistic in their feeding habits** Another member of the Crabs are Evil Society… <<Mmm…yes, I suppose so…but not without reason>> I've sure noticed that not many people want to keep them in their tanks. <<Actually, my experience is just the opposite…most any reef hobbyist I know keeps crabs of some form>> They are fascinating critters, though, aren't they? <<Oh yes!>> Thanks for the suggestions. <<Welcome>> **Excellent my friend** I'm just not feeling the Allelopathy today, so it's on tomorrow’s menu. Lack of sleep caused by my kitty not feeling well during the night. Oh well. <<Can sympathize…mine thinks he needs to get me up at 3am every morning because “he” is hungry>> **Ah, I see now…still marginal for halides I think** Agreed. **Okay…do fit “as many” bulbs as you can. And keep the addition of bulbs in the short-wave (Actinic) spectrum to the very minimum** I'm starting with a 6x39 Tek Retrofit, with this bulb sequence: 2 - ATI Blue Plus, 1 - ATI True Actinic, 1 - ATI Aquablue, 1 -UV Lighting AquaSun, 1 - GE 6500K Daylight. After measuring I'm concerned that eight won't fit. If there is room remaining I will order up two more. <<Okay>> How's the bulb choice? <<Too much “blue” in my opinion Utilizing more bulbs with a lower Kelvin rating will give more output/provide more useful light spectrum…something I think you will find important to your SPS and most definitely to any anemone you try to place under this lighting>> I had a lengthy conversation with the lighting guy (reefgeek) and this is what he suggested I try for what I would like to keep. <<Apparently we disagree [grin]>> Thanks, again, Eric... We are currently getting about a foot of snow. Fun! Barb M. <<Always welcome, Barb. We to are supposed to see some “white stuff” (about an inch), but temps are in the 40s so I have my doubts. Too bad…our cats have never seen/experienced snow! Regards, EricR>>

Re: Dancing with the Devil - New Tank and curing LR, and now, Reef stkg.  1/15/08
Hi Scott,
Thanks for the advice.
<Very welcome Ranjith.>
Since there is a DSB, will it not digest the nitrates by the time the rock cures?
<Theoretically it could over time with no other nitrate being produced. The reality is that it will not consume nitrates at the rate they will likely be produce curing rock. You will need some water changes, and should anyhow.>
That is the main point of the DSB right? To control nitrates.
<Yes.>
I agree there will be a lot of nitrates but left alone, the DSB should digest all of it right?
<Over time.>
Also, what made you conclude that anaerobic activity was going on?
<Hmm.. mentioned as a possibility. Actually unlikely at the depth we were talking about.>
Any idea how I can keep the beach sand from flying around?
<Only by controlling where and how your tank’s flow is dispersed.>
Will it help if I add slightly larger particle substrate around half inch above the sand?
<This can help, but in an active reef tank the smaller particles will eventually resurface. Larger particles may also act as a detritus trap.>
I plan to make this by using the mixer to grind some crushed coral.
That should help in culturing larger pods as well right?
<Somewhat, a refugium is better for this purpose.>
Regarding the surge
You think I should reduce the volume?
<No, it sounds like a good plan.>
I was thinking of an interval of 15-30 odd seconds between surges.
Faster in the day and slower at night.
<OK, will be fine.>
I plan to keep the following critters.
1. Zooanthids and sea mats (around 10 varieties fragged to create the multi colour mix)
<You may want to place these on rocks separated from the main aquascaping. Although they are quite nice, they can multiply very fast and become quite a nuisance.>
2. Mushrooms - (around 5-6 varieties fragged to create the multi colour mix)
3. Leather coral (mushroom leather, finger leather)- 2-3 pieces grown from frags.
4. elegance coral and hammer coral - one each
<I urge you to skip the elegance, read the link below.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm
5. sea pen (maybe) – one
<Difficult to keep.>
6. xenia
7. star polyps
8. Feather dusters (as many as possible :D)
9. Fromia Indica starfish - 2
10. Shrimps (4-6)
<What kind?>
11. black serpent stars - 2
12. 1 giant clam
<Careful with placement. Many species will need to be placed directly under your light.>
13. blue branching sponge
<Again, any specific sponge? Some are much more suitable than others for aquaria.>
Fishes:
1. Group of fairy wrasse (3-5)
2. Trio of multispined dwarf angel
< Centropyge multispinus? Nice fish, but stick with only one. Too many territoriality issues here.>
3. Regal tang - 1
4. Long nose Hawkfish – 1
<This fish may put some of your inverts in danger.>
5. Pair of Sebae clowns or skunk clowns
<Go for tank bred Sebaes if possible.>
6. Bi-color blenny - 1
Can you suggest any butterfly that would leave the above mentioned
corals alone along with the feather dusters?
<One of the longnose butterflies should work, but will be pushing the tank’s long term capacity in my opinion.>
An anemone for the clowns would surely be out of the question right?
<With all the mix above, I wouldn’t.>
Cheers again
Ranjith
< I hope this helps, Scott V.>

Chaetodontoplus septentrionalis in a captive reef?
Gambling With Corals (Risking A Large Angelfish With Invertebrates)?  1/16/08
Hey guys and gals:
<Scott F. your guy tonight!>
Simple question. Is Chaetodontoplus septentrionalis an angel that can be placed in a captive reef aquarium (90G) without being too destructive?
< I guess it's all relative..."Destructive" to some reef people is the loss of one polyp of coral. Yes- fishes in this genus will nip at all sorts of sessile invertebrates. It's rather uncommon in the U.S. trade, seeing how it has a rather limited distribution (mainly Southeast Asia and Japan). If you have a source and are up to keeping this beautiful fish, the risk may be worth it! My main concern is the size of the fish. This species can and will hit around 10 inches, and a 90 gallon aquarium is simply not large enough to house this species for anything close to a normal life span, IMO. You really will need an aquarium that is six feet or greater in length (preferably 8 feet), as they roam over large areas of reef in nature, and they do like caves and crevices to hide in.>
I have a few LPS corals and a few softies (no SPS) and I'm willing to tempt fate on one of my favorite fish of all time if it could possibly be kept without tearing everything up.
<A total dice roll, my friend!>
If the fish is well-fed enough (3 times daily with New Life Spectrum pellets along with frozen foods -- all soaked in Selcon), could it be somewhat trusted not to be a holy terror to corals? I was thinking about keeping a clam, but I wouldn't trust a large angel with a clam since I've seen first hand one getting nibbled to death in the past and I'd much rather have a huge want of mine in the septentrionalis if at all
possible.
<Again- there is no guarantee. Even fishes with a "reputation" for NOT munching on corals can turn on them. Like people, fish are individuals, and we cannot expect them to conform to our behavioral expectations.>
It's either that, or I was thinking of going with a Pomacanthus annularis which is my distant 2nd choice (but another gorgeous fish to say the least) which I've read in the FAQ's is one of the 3 large marine angels Bob would tempt fate with in a reef environment.- Jon
<Well, Jon, I have seen the P. annularis in reef systems. Again, it's a gamble, but it's up to the hobbyist to decide his/her threshold. A more pressing concern is the HUGE size that this fish can attain (like 15 to 18 inches), and its need for correspondingly huge quarters! Keeping one of these fish in anything less than an aquarium of hundreds of gallons is cruel and unusual, in my opinion. My advice to you, my risk-taking friend: Try fishes better suited to the quarters that you can provide, such as a rare Centropyge species (try pricing a C. hotumatua or C. joculator if you want sexy and expensive!), which are just as challenging (and potentially destructive to reef invertebrates), but generally max out at 4 inches or less. Regardless of what route you take, there are tradeoffs that you must make, so be prepared and go for it based on what is best for you and your animals. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Jonathan Philpot

Is it the right combination, Reef, FO, no  – 1/04/08
**Hi Crew,
<Ash>
First would like to thank the site a ton for all the information it contains, even a novice like me doesn't feel out of place.
Have a 135 gal tank with 3.5-4 inch thick sand bed and about 200 lbs of live rock. SG is at 1.024, PH at 8.2-8.4, Calcium is kept at approx near 400.
Bi-monthly addition of strontium, calcium and magnesium and Iron( all Kent marine) and once a month addition of Sera Marinvit plus. Am in the process of changing the fishes in the tank, which used to be orange lined trigger,
<An Undulated I take it>
one snapper (unknown) Clown surgeon, Maroon clown, Picasso Trigger, Fox face, Mata Tang , Sailfin tang (Indian).
The new combination would be :
Emperor Angel 4 inch
Blue ring angel 4 inch
<Mmm, these will likely NOT get along... and either one will grow too large for this setting>
Picasso trigger 2.5 inch
Lunar Wrasse 5 inch
Powder Blue Surgeon 5 inch
Foxface 3 inch
Starfish (unknown )
<Do be careful here...>
Two Carrot anemones
<What species?>
One tube anemone
<A cerianthid? Not a good idea>
Would like to know if the above combination is fine and if a maroon clown can be added?
<I'd be reading re each species Compatibility, Systems... taking good notes. This mix won't work>
Tank is over skimmed using two protein skimmers( Venturi and Saw Tooth) and the filtration is with bio balls and activated carbon and ammo rock mixed with zeolite.
Have a nano reef also with one mandarin and three Pyjama Cardinals.
Thanks in advance.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

"The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" Comments and Questions. Reef stkg.  – 1/04/08
Hello Mr. Fenner,
I recently bought your book and thought you did a fantastic job giving out the information in an orderly fashion and also to go along with that, you did a fantastic job of explaining many subjects throughout the book in various details, which in turn for me made it much easier to understand.
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Do know that a new, 2d ed. of this work (CMA I take it) is due out in a few months. Are you familiar with our website?>
I enjoyed reading your book and because you have established credibility I would like to ask you some questions about my tank at home and see what you feel can be done. Well here we go: Its a 65 gallon tank that is reef ready and has a 20 gallon sump underneath it with Live Rock and a protein skimmer. In the tank itself there is approximately 60-80 lbs of live rock along with about an inch and a half of fine substrate.
<Mmm, you may want to increase, possibly decrease this level... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/dsbdepth.htm>
Metal Halide lighting. The tank has been running for about a year and a half now and I have a few questions on a last selection of fish to add. Inhabitants: 1 Bicolor Angel (4")2 Black Percula Clownfish (One is significantly dominant and has made itself the female, they also host an Long Tentacle Anemone.)1 Maroon Clownish (Hosts a Rose Bubble Tip Anemone which currently just split, so she lives in both)
<This mix, Premnas could turn "ugly"... esp. with the other Clown species>
1 Green Mandarin (2")1 Sea Cucumber1 Cleaner Shrimp 2 Peppermint Shrimp1 Chocolate Chip Starfish Green Star Polyps Mushrooms Goniopora My question is... I'm looking for a last introduction of fish to my tank and what I want is a mated pair of fish that can fit in a 65 gallon tank and live happily with the residents that are currently in it. I want to get two of the same fish and have them pair over time or possibly buy a mated pair of a certain kind of fish. What fish for this tank would you recommend to me? Thank you for your time and cooperation, it is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Aaron
<Mmm, perhaps a pair of Cardinals (Apogonids)... Please see WetWebMedia.com re this family, many other choices... Bob Fenner>

Stocking question, SW Reef  – 1/2/08
I have a 3 month old 75 gallon tank with 100lbs LV. I have a 24" hang on refugium with macro algae and a Remora Pro ski