Triggerfish in a reef. Bobs go  3/28/07
I know this topic has been discussed a little in the past (especially regarding invertebrates, SPS corals and clams), but one thing I would like to know is are there ANY corals that can be kept with a triggerfish (specifically Rhinecanthus)?
<Sure... all sorts... the species of Balistids in this genus are all called "Reef Triggerfishes" at places, languages around the world... They are found in close association with cnidarians... More an issue of size of the system, other food items available mostly...>
I am very interested in a Humu Humu for a species tank, but would like some Vibrance and color to the tank without resorting to fake decoration.
Specifically I was contemplating zoanthid species and some soft corals.
Supposedly these corals have a noxious taste and thus deter most predators. They are also hearty so if a trigger does get curious the colony will likely survive.
<Likely will be fine with these>
Also, if the trigger decides to re-arrange rockwork it wont decimate the zoanthids as I have polyps that have been behind rockwork for years maintain growth and spread their way back to daylight.
I ask not only for the color and diversity aspect, but I would also like to use MH lighting to give the aesthetic appeal of shimmer lines...and I figure since I  will be using the best lighting, why not take advantage of that.
<Why not?>
I do realize that my prized Acanthastrea will have to remain in one of my other tanks!
<This too would not likely be disturbed>
Any thoughts on this issue?
<Mmm, nope>
Thank you very much Long time reader and big fan
Joshua Paul Hazelton
<Bob Fenner, who hopes to be out diving with the two local Rhinecanthus (in HI) later today>

'Blue' Reef Denizens - 3/27/07
Hi Guru’s of the Wet and Wonderful Underwater World!
<Hehe, I like that! JustinN with you today.>
  I have an 80 gallon reef tank with a Copperband Butterfly, a Coral Beauty and a Fridmani (and a couple of snails and hermits).  
<Sounds lovely, my friend.>
I would like to add some “blue” to the scenery so I was thinking of adding an Atlantic Blue Tang, but I was told that they get too large to share the tank with my BF.  
<Whomever told you this is wise, as most around here would agree with this assertion whole-heartedly.>
By the way,  how long does it take a species such as a tang to grow up?
<A couple to a few years, in good care. You would be in need of a larger tank within 2, is my guess here.>
  Anyway, I thought about adding a couple of Blue Reef Chromis.  A gentleman at Blue Zoo Aquatics said that they were difficult to keep and that I should go with the Blue-Green Chromis (which I don’t like as much).  Are the Blue Reef Chromis that difficult to keep? 
<Mmm, I would think its all in the hardiness of the individual... I would think even if they are a bit more difficult than the blue-green chromis, likely you would be fine here.>
I would be picking up the fish as I thought maybe they just don’t ship well.  
<A worthwhile effort.>
Are there any other blue fish you could suggest?  I thought about some of the damsels, but I am concerned they will get too aggressive as they get older.
<I would agree here.>
  Thanks for your help!
<You might take a look at some of the gorgeous wrasse species -- you may find what you're looking for! -JustinN>

Bubble tip anemone question. Set-Up/Stocking Questions 3/23/07
Hello crew,
<Hi Joe>
I recently got my first large fish tank. It's a 75 gallon.
<Nice size.>
I built a 29 gallon sump under the tank. I have an Icecap 660 ballast with 4 110w VHO bulbs in it. Two are actinic blue, and two are white. Each bulb has the reflector on the top half of the bulb. I am taking things very slowly but I have a few questions.
I have no water in the tank yet, because I don't have a pump. I have drilled two holes in the tank and have plumbed each with 1.5" pvc. I was thinking of getting an Eheim 1262 pump to use as a return to the main display. The water from the sump will have to travel about 3 and a half feet vertically, and a foot horizontally. Will this pump be too powerful?
<No, you will lose some head pressure due to the length <and ehight> of the return.>
I plan on getting about 100 pounds of live rock soon.
My second question has to do with my lighting. I don't think I will be able to keep SPS corals with my current lighting. Is this true?
<Although your wattage level is up there, 5.8 watts per gallon, some corals such as monti's and Acro's seem to do better under MH/HQI lighting, but can
survive under this type lighting.  I'd start with LPS corals and see how they do.>
What types of corals am I actually limited to?
<Above, try LPS, learn more before moving up to SPS.>
I've always wanted to get an anemone and clownfish pair. I was thinking of getting one large, and one small Amphiprion ocellaris. I wanted to get a Bubble tip anemone. Will my lighting be enough for this anemone?
<Not a good idea mixing corals with anemones, anemones can/will move and eventually zap some corals in the process.  Do read here and
linked files above.  Do read/learn more before selecting your corals/fish, etc.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm>
I won't get an anemone until my tank is ready (4-6 months), but I would like to plan ahead.
I'm also interested in a flame angel. I've heard that you have to watch them around corals, but a lot of the time they don't nip them, especially if they are fed well. Any thoughts on this?
<Would not take the chance.  If you end up with a Flame that likes to nibble on corals, it will be very tough to net
him out once the live rock is in place.>
The flame angel question brings me to my final question. It is about fish stocking. Here is what I was thinking, and in this order.
2 Amphiprion ocellaris
1 firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
<Do much better in groups, avoid just one or skip the selection.>
1 Diamond watchman goby (Valenciennea puellaris)
<Does require a live sand bottom, otherwise hardy.>
1 Powder brown tang (Acanthurus japonicus)
<Careful here, do read/learn more about this fish before attempting to keep.>
1 Flame angel (Centropyge loriculus)
1 Green Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus) (after 6 - 8 months)
<Most refuse to eat prepared foods.  Do ensure live food, in the form of copepods/amphipods are present or are available to put into the tank.  I'd start the "seeding" process at least a month or so before introducing the mandarin. This should ensure the live rock will be teeming with pods.  Do search/read on this fish also.>
Does this sound like a reasonable stocking list?
<Somewhat, do read/learn about all fish and inverts you plan on adding.  Knowing their requirements and if you can provide these, are very important to the successful keeping of the animal.>
Your website is an awesome research tool. It's already helped me out a lot.
<Great, keep reading/learning.>
Thanks in advance, keep up the good work,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Joe

Stocking Question, reef   3/16/2007
It’s another one of those, “is my tank overstocked” questions.  I have read archived inquiries, but would feel better with your assurance that we are not overdoing it with the fish numbers and types.  Tank specs:  240 gallon with 55 gallon sump/fuge,  ammonia/nitrate/nitrite:  0, calcium:  450, SG: 1.025, alkalinity:  3.5, temp.:  79-80, pH: 8.2.   Coral inhabitants are primarily LPS with a few SPS, zooanthids, and mushrooms.  All corals are kept at least 8 inches from any other coral.
<Good>
Other invertebrates include 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, assorted crabs and snails (probably too many),
<They'll thin themselves out if so>
2 conches, and 1 seastar (Asteroid).  All fish except the mandarin "hang out" together quite peacefully and include 1-6" Naso tang, 1-3" yellow tang, 1-3" two-barred Rabbitfish, 1-2" clarkii clown, 1-1" clarkii clown, and 1-2" mandarin (fat and eating).  So, question 1:  are we overstocked?  
<No, not IMO>
Question 2: if not overstocked, can we safely add, with QT of course, a hippo tang?  2 or 3 engineer gobies? lawnmower blenny? 2 clown triggers
<Not these>
and 5 puffers and 2 volitans lions?
<Nor these two...>
Ok, that part was a joke.... are you laughing or screaming in horror?
<Too sleepy thus far for either reaction... and you will not likely be surprised that folks have proposed such aggregations in earnest...!>
  =)  Seriously though, are we pushing it with aggression and bioload with another tang and/or the gobies and blenny?  
Thanks for the advice and great site as always!
Lea
<I think you'll be fine here. The Paracanthurus won't likely re recognized as a niche competitor, and there is nothing really utilizing the gobies habitat. Bob Fenner>

Tank Stocking Questions. Pushing The Limits...?   3/15/07
Hello there,
<Hi there! Scott F. here tonight!>
I'm a HUGE fan of your site - and despite reading so much on the site for the past 3 months, I'm still very new to the hobby and feel like I don't have a good grasp of the hobby.  
<I'll bet you understand more than you think that you do!>
My questions:
1) Is there any rule on how many fish is too many fish?
<Well- if you ask 10 different people, you'll get ten different answers! Her is my take- Really, it depends upon many factors: The size of your aquarium, the filtration system, ultimate size of the fishes, their feeding habits, needs for physical space, etc. The old rules of " 'X' number of fishes per gallon is sort of outdated, IMO. 10 2" Damselfishes will have a dramatically different effect on your systems bioload and social order than one 10" Angelfish, for example...Many variables here.>
I'm building a reef tank and this is what I have so far: Yellow Tang, Powder Blue tang, Foo Man Chu Lion, 2 Maroon Clowns, 2 Percula Clowns, 2 Bicolor Anthias, 1 Copperband Butterfly in a 90 gallon tank with a 40 gallon sump.
<OK...in my opinion, you are done stocking this tank...in fact, you're kind of overcrowded! The Tangs can and will become fairly large, are active fishes, and require large volumes of water and physical space to keep up with their growth and production of metabolites. The Clownfishes may have squabbles as they mature, but we'll have to see. The Lionfish, although relatively small, needs a lot of food, is kind of shy, and will need attention to assure that it's feeding well. The Butterfly is also a pretty active fish that needs high water quality and food for long term success. It's not that you can't succeed with this mix; it's just that you have to really keep an eye on things...>
I have 120 pounds of
live rock and 1.5 inches of sand.  I have a couple of shrimp and a 15 very small hermits, 15 various snails.  I also have a small star fish and a Trumpet coral.  So, do I have too many fish?
<As above- I think that you're maxed out...Think about a larger tank in the future!>
I'd like to add a blue tang and a couple of small fish but fear that this is too many.  Your thoughts are
much appreciated.
<Hey, man- you're right on target...no more fish..>
2)My 2 maroon clowns ONLY stay in a corner of the tank despite being there for a month now.  They're healthy, but never leave this corner -should I be worried?  Is there a way to coax them out?  They have found a rock that they love and just won't leave - it's just that they haven't even
seen the other end of the tank ;)
<Not uncommon behavior, IME. I would not worry too much, unless they are showing signs of distress or illness..>
3) My 2 Percula Clowns always peck at each other and then convulse
afterward - they have been doing this since I've had them (1.5 months) -they're not really hurting each other, but always pecking at each other. Should I be concerned?
<As above...Not unusual behavior; possibly even a courtship behaviour.>
I've considered getting an anemone for the clowns,
but am afraid that the 2 species would fight each other for it.
<Please don't...Anemones require a high degree of care, environmental stability, and are entirely unnecessary for success with Clownfish. In fact, many Clowns are captive-bred and have never even seen one! And you are correct that there could be a battle for "ownership" of the anemone. Anemones are really for dedicated systems only, IMO, that are designed with their specific needs in mind. You have an active, varied group of fishes (that will keep you busy for a while, BTW), so I'd enjoy what you have!>
Thank you so much for your help. I look forward to hearing from you.
Best regards,
Keith
<My pleasure, Keith! You are on the right track...Keep learning and sharing with others! Regards, Scott F.>

FOWLR moving slooooowly toward Reef; Stocking Evaluation   3/15/07
I'm planning/researching toward reefkeeping in my 180 gallon tank (75g. refugium/sump and ASM G-2 Protein skimmer). I'm still working to identify the inhabitants that will give me a balanced ecosystem. I have read a lot, but still feel I know very little.
<It's so good that you read...much to learn in this hobby, and lots of reading is a great start!>
Please recommend a 'starter' mix that will better help me focus my research.  This should be a design/plan that will expands over time.
<Wow...that's a really tall order to fill. So many possible combinations. It all really depends upon what you like: Some people like Damselfish, others specialize in Gobies, Anthias, or Wrasses. You can have a nice community tank based upon fishes that inhabit different levels of the aquarium (i.e.; substrate, rocks, midwater, etc.). You really need to give some thought to the fishes that you like and plan your tank based on that.>
The current inhabitants of the tank are as follows although this may change over time: Gold Spotted Rabbitfish, Green or Blue Mandarin Goby , Spotted Yellow Eye Tang, Majestic Angel, Lemon Peel Angel, one Akindynos clown , and one Australian Black & White Clown.
<Wow- a lot of fishes in the 180! I'd say that you're basically done stocking this tank! Some of the fishes in your aquarium get quite large and will need lots of room to live a long, healthy life span.>
Also, I read 'Marine Lighting: Quality, Quantity and Duration', 'Lighting Fixtures for Marine Systems' and your response in the FAQ - About one of your articles on lighting and marine inverts   2/20/07.  I liked the full spectrum fluorescent lighting approach.  Why are you recommending more intensity?
<Intensity is important if you plan on keeping photosynthetic animals, or plants, which require higher light levels.>
Would a 5,000-6,000 CCT, 96CRI, VHO 160W and electronic ballast be your updated recommendation? BTW, I searched for the Dura/Vita-lite Supremes and found them.
<Sorry to be "evasive", but so much depends on the animals that you will keep. Full-spectrum lighting is useful for most of the animals that we keep, but you'll need to research the needs of your specific group to be sure that you've chose the correct lighting. Regards, Scott F.>

90 gallon reef ... livestock sel.   3/14/07
Hello Bob,
I had a few questions for you regarding corals in my 90 Gallon reef.
Tank Dimensions: 48" x 18" x 24"
Water Parameters:
Calcium- 420
dKH- 12.5
PH- 8.3
Specific Gravity- 1.025
Temperature- 78 degrees F
Nitrates- not detectable
Nitrites- 0
Ammonia- 0
The lighting system on this aquarium consists of two 250 watt 14 K metal halides, two 96 watt actinic power compacts, and 4 1 watt white LED Lunar  
Lights.
The lighting system has two 4" cooling fans in the canopy, and the tank has a JBJ 1/10 hp Titanium chiller.
For heating I am using a Finnex 300 watt titanium heater, located in the sump. The filter is a 30 gallon sump I designed for the system with a 24" x 5" skimmer that has an extra tall skimmer cup so I don't have to empty it so often. The skimmer is pushing 630 GPH.
<Wow!>
The return line to the tank are powered by a blue line HD 40 X pump  1,270 gph, with about 3 feet of head and splits in the tank 1 pointing to each  side of the tank. The return line runs up through a center overflow on the  back of the aquarium. It seems to give off great flow everywhere in  the tank. The tank still gets at least 10x turnover an hour.
In the sump I have 2 bags of Chemi pure carbon, and filter floss in the first chamber and a poly filter pad and a Kent nitrate sponge in the second chamber.
In the tank there is about 120 Lbs give or take a few Lbs of a combination of Marshall Island live rock, Tonga branch, and Tonga Kaelini Live rock. I cured  the rocks in 2 44 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans for 4 1/2 weeks with heavy skimming and 630 gph pumps on the bottom and 240 gph pumps at the  surface until the readings came out clean.
I have a graded sand bed in the tank just under 1" in the front to 1 1/2"  in the back.
Now for tank inhabitants.
Fish:
1 Zebrasoma Flavescens
1 Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
1 Cirrhilabrus solorensis
1 Synchiropus splendidus
1 Amphiprion percula
8 Chromis viridis
1 Pterapogon kauderni
1 Centropyge bispinosus
3 Stonogobiops yashia
1 Pseudanthias ventralis
<Happier, healthier in groups>
Inverts:
3 Lysmata amboinensis
3 Sabellastarte sp.
11 Sabella species
2 Sabellastarte magnifica
3 Tridacna Crocea
7 Clibanarius sp. (red tip hermits)
7 Nassarius sp.
5 Astraea tecta
11 Trochus sp.
18 Nerita sp.
Coral:
2 Caulastrea furcata
1 Caulastrea curvata
1 Euphyllia glabrescens
1 Briareum sp.
1 Xenia sp.
1 Cespitularia sp.
1 Cladiella sp.
2 Sinularia sp
2 Acropora (bushy Acropora)
My questions for you are:
#1 does this stocking list work well, or is there something I should be concerned about there?
<Mmm, investing in a larger volume... you need it... like twice>
#2 Any foreseeable problems in the near future for me with my mix of  corals?
<Keep your eye on the Briareum... keep it harvested, isolated to a given patch of rock>
#3 Are my water parameters accurate to ensure the health and stability of  what I have in my tank?
I do plan on lowering the temp to 77-78.
Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated as always.
Thank you!
<... Keep reading, sharing, living... la vida loca in the pet-fish interest! BobF>

Need Help - Plan for how and when to stock my first tank  3-13-07
Hello.
<Hello, Brenda here tonight>
Setting up my first tank after a couple of months of researching like crazy. SO excited!!  So far, I have the tank (53g Elos System 80), stand, Skimmer, Sump, Pumps, Auto Top-Off controller, Powerheads, heaters, Test Kits (PH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and Ammonia and Refractometer. Even bought an extra power head and heater for the container I'll be using to make water for topping off the tank.  
<Why are you planning on heating and mixing top off water?  Top off water is not salt water.  Salt does not evaporate.  If you top off with salt water your salinity will sky rocket.  Use the heater and power head for your water change water.>
Everything is set up and in place.  No water in tank at this point.  Working on selecting the lights (looking at Aquatinics 24" T5x5 that's coming out soon) and a good RO/DI (looking at SpectraPure MaxCap, The Filters Guys Ocean Reef 1, and the Typhoon III).
<Fine Choices!>  
Hope to have the lights and RO/DI by the end of April.  If you have any input on a better choice for lighting, please let me know.  I'll be keeping soft corals, fish and live rock in the tank.
<Sounds like an excellent choice to me!>
Here's my questions...(Phew...thought she'd never get to the point! )  I'm going away diving for a week at the end of April....so I won't even be adding water or anything until I return at the beginning of May.  I am doing a 115 mile hike that will take 10 days at the beginning of August.  My plan was....to get the tank up and running and cycling with pre-cured live rock, by the beginning of May, but not adding much fish to it until I return from the big hike in Mid August.  Don't want the stress of worrying about a newly set up system while away for 10 days.  
I thought though...that I could add maybe just 2 fish and a shrimp and a couple of snails over the first month or two (after it's done cycling) and leave it alone until after my vacation in August.  Figured this way, my tank would have a good 3 months to mature some, before my trip in mid-August, and then I could get serious about adding fish and corals after vacation (at an agonizingly slow patient pace though).  While away, I'll use an automated feeder, and the auto top off water, and a power backup of some sort, and have someone check on the tank once or twice in the middle of the week.   
<Have someone check in more often if you can.  Also test that automated feeder before you go.  They have been known to clog up from moisture.>
I am not going to stock any fish that can only eat live or frozen food.
Is this a good plan or should I only add water and live rock until I return from my vacation in August?
<It would be better to wait, unless you feel comfortable that the person checking in will know what to do if there are problems.>
Could I add any soft corals between now and August or should I wait on that?
<I would wait, too soon to rush into corals.>
I'm looking at the following fish.  I'm assuming I'd want to add the clowns last.    If I added just two, between now and my vacation in August, which two would you recommend?
Pair of True Perculas or Ocellaris Clowns
Wrasse (haven't decided which wrasse yet)
Blenny
Goby
Shrimp (coral banded or blood red)
<If you add anything, I would add the clownfish first, either species, both very similar.  They are from the damsel family, and are the hardiest from your list in my opinion.>
Thanks so much!
Pam
<You’re welcome.  Brenda>

Re:  New Tank Set up Questions – 3/13/07
Thank you for your input Brenda.  Appreciate it.
<You’re welcome!>
I do know that the top off water has to be fresh water, but I still have to heat that fresh RO/DI water before adding it to the top off reservoir correct?
<No, the top off water will be going into your system so slow that between room temperature and the heater in your tank, there is no need for it.>
Would it be better to put a very low wattage heater in my top off reservoir or heat it in the Rubbermaid before adding it to the top off reservoir?  (It is only a 3 gallon reservoir, built into the sump.)
<Three gallons at room temperature going into a tank over the course of one or two days will not make a difference in your tank, set the heater in your main tank to take care of this.>
I'll use a larger Rubbermaid container if I'm going away for longer than a weekend.
<Still should not make a difference.  I keep a 55 in my basement and don’t heat the top off water, it gets pretty cold in the basement when it’s below zero outside.>
Thanks!  Pam
<You’re welcome!   Brenda>

Stocking Help 3/13/07
Hello.
<Hi>
I just purchased my first Salt Water Tank. Have everything but the lights, and RO/DI. Can't wait till I can actually add some water and live rock!
<Exciting.>
I'm working on my wish list for fish. I picked two fish that are on my "Must have" list....and am wondering out of the other fish on "Would Like" list...what would be best to put with the "Must Have" fish. I'm planning on sticking with "Peaceful" fish and will stick with Soft Corals.
<Ok>
My Tank.... 53 Gallon Elos System 80.   30.5" x 19.5" x 19.5"
My "Must Have" Fish:
- Pair of Clowns, either Ocellaris or True Percula. I like the brighter color of the True Percula, but I know that the Ocellaris is better for beginners...so I'll probably go with the Ocellaris. (Also like the Maroons...but they're semi-aggressive so I should keep away from them with the fish I've chosen correct?)
<Go with the Ocellaris, easier than the Percs and much more timid than the Maroons, which are not semi-aggressive but hyper-aggressive.>
AND
- Banded Possum Wrasse.
<HeeHee, my favorite fish.  Be aware that they often don't take to pellet or flake food, but will eat frozen food.>
My "Would Like" Fish:
I'd really like to add one other species of Wrasse with the Banded Possum Wrasse. Are any of the following a better choice, and which species of Wrasse should be added to the tank first, or should they be added at the same time....or should I absolutely not add another Wrasse with the Banded Possum Wrasse?
- Six Line Wrasse
- Scott's Fairy Wrasse
- Mystery Wrasse
- Lineatus Wrasse
- Laboute's Wrasse
- Longfin Fairy Wrasse
- Fine Spotted Fairy Wrasse
<The possum is pretty timid, I would not add another wrasse, it will get bullied.>
The following are also on my "Would Like" List. Are any better choices?
One of the following Blenny's
- Tail Spot Blenny
- Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny
- Midas Blenny
<All of these will need their diet supplemented with Nori or other algaes, but otherwise should be fine.  Choose 1 only.>
Would like a small school of 3 or 4 of one of these species.
-Blue Reef Chromis
-Blue/Green Reef Chromis
-Spotted Cardinal Fish - I read in one place that they are reef  safe, and another that they are not
<I think people are often disappointed in how their Chromis look, and the cardinals would make a nice unique choice, but 3 of any of these would be ok.>
One of the following Goby's
- Clown Goby, Green
- Clown Goby, Citrinus
- Yellow Watchman Goby
- Tangaroa Goby
<I would stay away from the Clown gobies, they can be difficult to feed and easily bullied.>
Thanks!!
Pam
<Lets see, by my count you are looking around 7 fish, which is starting to get fairly heavily stocked, but should be workable is done over a long enough time, just make sure to add the clowns last since they can get pretty aggressive.  Remember to QT your new fish and good luck on the new tank.>
<Chris>

Advice on fish selection 3/13/07
G'day Bob and friends,
<Hi>
I'm in the process of establishing a reef tank, this being my first
aquarium, it seems to be a steep learning curve. <Can be.> I've been reading lots on your website as well of from a couple of books (mainly The Conscientious Marine Aquarist). <Good, but remember to get other's opinions too, ours are not the be all end all.>
I have a good idea of the fish I would like to add, but would like your advice before I put their lives in my hands.  <Ok>
My set up so far is:
4 foot 45 gallon tank, 40lbs live rock (which came with some stony corals on them), 1.1/2" of fine sand (I hope you appreciate my not using the superior metric system), <Thanks>  a few soft corals, Aqua C Remora protein skimmer, 1 x 150w 10000k metal halide, 2 power compacts, Fluval canister filter and a couple of powerheads. Will possibly add a refugium after doing some more research
(when does it end?). <Never, and a good idea on the refugium.> I currently have a couple of damsels in there for something to look at while the tank was cycling, the tank finished cycling about 2 months ago. <Ok>
The fish I would like to add would be:
A Flame Angel, <the tank is at the minimum size for this fish in my opinion, may be trouble.> Percula Clown <ok>, Yellow Tang <Way to big for this sized tank.> and once the tank is more established a leopard wrasse. <Ok> I will also put some invertebrates in, Cleaner Shrimp and some others, more research still required. I've read that the Flame Angel may pick at the corals, but I'm willing to take that risk.
Would you say these fish will be compatible? <Not in this sized tank.> Would a different clown or wrasse be more suitable? <Actually I think these are your best two choices.> Is there a best order that I should add these fish. <Least to most aggressive.>
I realize I will probably have to swap the damsels out at some point. <Good luck, may need to remove all the rock to get them out.> I understand the leopard wrasse will constantly look for micro crustaceans on the live rock, I am a bit worried that on day 3 of curing my live rock in a garbage bin (sorry, trash can), it seemed all the worms had died (I was doing partial water changes and monitoring ammonia, but skipped a day). Will the life forms in the live rock recover, or should I add some more live rock/sand to help them regenerate? <Should recover with time.> Your information on this website and Bob's book have been invaluable, and your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Ben
<Good luck with the new tank.>
<Chris>

Tang compatibility, Zebrasomas    3/11/07
Dear Crew
<Hello Daniel.  Brandon tonight.>
I have been doing some reading on your website regarding tang compatibility, but wanted your opinion on my specific situation.
<Ok.>
I have a 100 gal 6ft reef aquarium with a lot of live rock, set up as two separate islands. I have 4 Chromis, 1 Pinstripe Wrasse, 2 Saddleback Clowns, 1 Bicolor Blenny, a Valentini Puffer,
<This fish has no place in this tank.  It will eventually eat the Chromis, and it will also start nipping corals.  Only keep with fish equal in size or bigger.>
a variety of leather and LPS corals and as of this morning, a new Indian Sailfin Tang that I released from quarantine. He/She is approximately 4" long and is settling in nicely.  
<Good to hear.>
I was wondering how a yellow tang would go with this guy.  
<Your tank is too small for more than one Tang.  Your Zebrasoma desjardinii, can get up to 40cm, or about 15”.  As you can imagine this is quite large.  8” sounds more reasonable in a home aquarium however.  This is still to big for more than one Tang.>
Is it likely they would fight or is my tank large enough to provide sufficient space for them both?
<Please see above.>
My LFS has gone so far as to suggest I could put three tangs in there, but I get the feeling that would be pushing the envelope.
<The people at your LFS are just trying to make a sale.  They need further training.  Stick with the one Tang and you will have it for quite awhile.>
As always your advice is greatly appreciated and usually followed ;)
<Thank you for the kind words.  I hope that you avoid my mistakes, and go with the one Tang.  Brandon in Georgia.>
Dan in Sydney

Re: Tang compatibility, Zebrasomas    3/11/07
Brandon, thanks for the reply.
<No problem.  I live for this stuff.  Seriously.>
I will stay with the one tang as you suggest :( although, I have to say the wife is disappointed!
<Well better to be disappointed then facing a serious problem later.>
A quick question. You said that a Valentini puffer has no place in my tank as it will eat my Chromis and start nipping the corals! I was aware they can nip corals but so far mine has been a little angle, not even bothering the turbo snails I have in there. However I was not aware they like to snack on other fish.
<All puffers are considered predatory.  The largest concern with these particular puffers (Canthigaster valentini) is that they are fin nippers, but it is not uncommon for them to make “cookie cutter” holes on their tank mates.  This sampling can eventually lead to the deaths of other inhabitants.  If the puffer is behaving up to this point, then watch closely, and be prepared to move if it’s attitude shifts as it matures.>
I was under the impression they can only grow to 3-4 inches and feed on invertebrates.
<Size is correct, but they have been known to become terrors.  I.E. biting the legs/eyes/other exposed appendages off of crabs, and taking pieces off of fish.  Please see here,  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tobycompfaqs.htm.>
And one other thing I'd like to ask: I'm going to put a flame angel into the tank for sure, they are just gorgeous fish.  
<Indeed.  I have a special place in my heart for the Centropyge group.>
However, are there any larger angels that are less likely to eat corals?  
<Actually with the larger angels, your are more likely to get coral damage.>
I know that there are no "reef safe" angels period, but was just wondering which of the non-dwarf species are most likely to be ok should I decide to take the risk.  Oh and please keep in mind I live in Australia, Caribbean species like the queen are VERY expensive here.
<I would stay away from any Pomacanthus in a reef unless it was quite large, say 200+ gallons.  They get really big, and they will nip corals.  Keep in mind that they can go into smaller systems, and I am not giving you published guidelines, I am merely pointing out what I would do.  As far as Centropyge selection,  I personally like to have a more docile member of the group.  Look into the C. bispinosa.   These tend to be a little more laid back and less territorial.  If you have your heart set on a C. loriculus though, rest assured you are headed in the right direction.  The Pygmy Angels tend to be more compatible in reefs than their larger Pomacanthid cousins.  Purchase small, and introduce when the tank is dark.  Do keep in mind that this should perhaps be your last addition.  You are getting quite close to the limit on fish here, and beyond that, any new additions will have to clear customs with your C. loriculus. (:^D)  Brandon.>
Dan in Sydney

Is my setup OK? WOW, a lot of Fish... 2/23/07
Hi Crew,
<Hi>
I have with the help of my local Fish store. ( I Live in Cairns Australia so my local fish store sends fish all over the world)  What I want to know is if with the set up I have will there be issues in the future?
<Lets take a look.>
I have:
A 55G tank
1 submerged ‘canister type’ filter rated at 350 GPH
<Needs to be cleaned often, ideally weekly.>
1 hang on filter rated at 200GPH
<Also needs to be cleaned often.>
1 venture type protein skimmer that (suited for a 55G tank) with a 370GPH power head.  <Is it producing well?  If not upgrade.>
Live stock/live rock
20 pounds live rock
<A little light for my tastes but should be workable.>
10-15 pounds base rock
½ - 1 inch of fine sand substrate
1 Long nose butterfly
1 small coral beauty (1.5 inch)
2 small clown fish ½ inch and 1 inch
1 small sail fin tang (3 inch) <Needs a larger tank.>
1 mixed tang <Also needs a larger tank, minimum for any tang is 90G in my opinion.>
2 valentine puffer
1 small 6 bar wrasse
1 other wrasse <Some get quite big and can be problematic.>
2 small goat fish <Many of these can also easily and quickly outgrown this tank.>
1 small Picasso trigger (1 inch) <Way too small of a tank, this guy will get VERY aggressive as it matures and probably wreak havoc.>
1 small rock hopper <Not familiar with this common name.>
1 sleeper goby (long story but a shark ate his mate – he seems happy but should I get him another partner?)
<Would not add any more life with current stocking.>
1 nudibranch (so ugly that its cool)
<Most starve to death in aquariums.>
2 blue starfish (Linckia laevigata) <Also have a terrible survival record, most dead within a year.>
My local fish store says its all good and everything in the tank is happy there are no blues or chasing each other or anything.
<Yet.>
Water conditions seem good: PH 8.0, Ammonia 0, nitrate 0, nitrite is normally < 0.1 but sometimes gets up to 0.5ppm
<An indication of overwhelming the biological filtration, more LR or larger filters needed here.  Nitrite is quite toxic even at low levels.>
I change 13G of water every two weeks (with filtered barrier reef water).  <Good.>
I would like to get some coral once I have the water temp settled to 80F.  <Too much life in the tank currently, if you "thin out" the bioload some and have adequate lighting many possibilities.>
Am I sitting on a time bomb here or is this an ok setup?
The tank has been running about 3 months.
P.S I think my numbers are all pretty close but we work in Liters and kilos here so I did my best J
<No problem.>
Thanks for your time.
<Sure, although I'm afraid you may not like my comments.>
Regards,
Tim Innes-Brown
<I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but in my opinion with the current stocking level and compatibility issues I think the clock is ticking. If you removed the tangs, trigger, goat fish, butterfly, and stuck with 6-7 smaller fish in the 3-4 inch length I would feel much better about your chances for success.>
<Chris>

Re: Is my setup OK? WOW, a lot of Fish... Part II 2/24/07
Thanks for your response,
<Sure>
The trigger is about 1 inch, the goat fish are about 1 inch, I read they will get to about 6?
<Trigger will reach about 10 inches, the goatfish, depending on the species will get at least as big, maybe bigger.>
The Tangs also a fairly small. I read that they need about 14 times their length to be happy? <Basically need a 6 foot tank to properly develop.> - If this is the case for the time they have ample room.  <Not much time and not enough room, their growth bill start to become stunted soon.>
The plan is to get a 200G odd tank in about a year and have it built as a false wall in my house.  <Unfortunately I often hear about these plans are rarely hear about them coming to fruition, best to stock for what you have now.>
The fish people around here are pretty good and will in most cases swap fish if they don’t work out.
<Best to start removing now before you start losing fish.>
My question given your response is should I return some of them or will they be alright for a year or so? <I would return now.>
I imagine that it would be time to give them up when they start to look cramped or stressed and not happy?  <Too late at that point, physical and psychological damage will already have been done.>
Thanks for your advice I would much rather happy a happy peaceful community than a load of dead fish and trouble.
<Good attitude, I really think it would be best to stock for what you have now and if the new tank comes along then you can add to it at that time.>
Regards,
Tim Innes-Brown
<Chris>

FOWLR? tank issue. Aquarium Version 2.0   2/23/07
Hi There,
<Hi! Scott F. back with you.>
Thanks for the prompt reply last time, wasn't able to follow up, as my tank burst up!! the front glass simply went to pieces....Lost most of the stock!
<Horrible to hear that...I can relate. Just had a similar issue, myself. Not fun.>
Am resetting the tank, this time would like to put in some corals in too...currently the tank has :
1-Maroon Clown 3 inch
1-Cleaner Wrasse 3 inch
1-Regal Tang 2.5 inch
1-Majestic Angel 3.5 inch
1- Dottyback 3 inch
1- Carpet Anemone
Live rock- 100 lbs
Would like to know if Acropora, Leather finger coral, Sun coral and Zoanthids would be ok in this mix.
<I would choose either the Acropora or the Leather and Zoanthid combination. For ideal long term success, it's best not to mix soft corals with stony corals, IMO.>
Also would be adding a Fox face, and Banggai cardinals later on. Also will a Coral beauty which is in another tank right now be fine in this mix?
<I'd add the Coral Beauty and call it a day. You don't want to overload this tank. There could be some issues with the Majestic and the Coral Beauty, both with each other (sometimes even Angels of different genera don't always get along) and with the corals that you intend to keep. They might nip at some of the Zooanthids and Acropora. No guarantees. Hope this helps...Good luck with your re-start! Regards, Scott F.>

Pump & Stocking Advice; skimmer op., reef stkg., circ., spray-on foam inside backgrd.s    - 02/21/07
Dear Crew,
<Scott>
I sent the basics of this email on Saturday and didn't receive a reply, so I thought I'd send it again.  If you received it previously, I apologize.
   <I don't recall seeing this. Thanks for re-sending>
  Thanks again for this forum.  I can’t tell you how invaluable your advice has been.  You offer great advice that saves hobbyists a lot of grief and heartache, not to mention $.  Unfortunately I got overly excited when I saw what I thought was a great sump/refugium.  I ordered it prior to measuring it and prior to receiving my Euro Reef RS-180, which I can’t wait to set up.  The front compartment is too small for the skimmer.  I am going to attempt to modify it, however, if I can’t I may be forced to house the skimmer in the final compartment which is where I housed it when my 150 gallon reef was set up 8 years ago but times have certainly changed since then.
<Not that big of a deal...>
How much of an added benefit due you feel there is to housing the skimmer in the 1st compartment versus with the return?
<A few (single digit) percent>
  I sincerely appreciate your passion and responsiveness.  I’m establishing a 180 gallon reef which will house Acropora, Galaxea (I need to provide room for growth and to account for their
“stingers”),
<Oh yes>
a torch, a yellow Sarco, zoos, and another group of soft corals such as polyps or Ricordea.  I’ll also have Tridacna clams.
  My fish choices are:
Pr of BT Triggerfish (or Sargassum Triggers)
(1) Sohal Tang (my preference, but also considering Powder Blue, Palette, or Purple)
<The Sohal will be "king" here if placed>
(1) 6-Line Wrasse
Small school of Chrysiptera (Flavipinnis, Hemicyanea, Caeruleolineata, Cymatilis, or Chromis (Scotti or Viridis)...as these seem to be among the least aggressive
(1)Yellow Assessor
(1) Pseudochromis Fridmani
(1) Oblique-lined Dottyback (Cypho Purpurascens)
Pr of Clowns (Undecided on type)
(1) Flame Angel (Unsure if this is a good choice due to the clams)
<Likely okay in a setting of this size, type>
(2) Shrimp Gobies (preferably Amblyeleotris Yanoi or Stonogobiops Yasha, but welcome recommendations based on the other inhabitants) with commensurate shrimp
<Mmm, your triggers may consume the shrimp...  best to place these ahead of the Balistids>
  (1) Mandarin (last fish WELL after the tank is established)
<Mmm, may likely starve... hopefully can be moved to the refugium...>
I will be including a school of either Scott's Fairy Wrasses (1 male – 3/4 females) or school of Anthias (preferably Pseudanthias Bimaculatus, Fasciatus, Rubrizonatus, or Squamipinnis,
….recommendations?  
<Any of these, or even two species would work... one male...>
What are your thoughts/concerns about including both the Anthias and the harem of the Scott’s?
<Can be done in a six foot long system...>
If I were to go that route, what fish, if any, would you eliminate?  
<Mmm, none stick out from what is listed>
The last thing I want to do is overcrowd the tank.  If I go with the Anthias, I will still be adding a male Scott's.  I would appreciate your recommendations.
The tank details are:
180 gallon acrylic w/ 60 gallon sump w/refugium
Euro Reef RS-180 Skimmer
I am contemplating adding a Calcium Reactor at a later date.
<A worthwhile piece of gear>
  3 MH (I don’t remember the wattage… still have the ballasts from a 150 reef I ran 8 years ago) and 2 Actinics (aesthetics)
<I see>  
  I haven't decided on the pump yet.  I’m leaning towards an Iwaki 70RLT (1500 gph @ 4' head) or 100RLT 2000 gph @ 4' head), although I am reconsidering the Dolphin line as well.  I need to determine what the drainage (gph) of my overflows is in order to choose the correct pump (the calculator on reefcentral.com (I believe) can help me determine the drainage flow rate.
<Roughly, yes>
I have one additional question concerning the Iwakis.  Although the Japanese motors are preferred, it appears that the better choice in wet/dry return pumps is the RLXT which is only available up to the 40RLXT.  Is there a significant difference in the RLXT versus RLT models?  
<Not IMO>
I believe that I’m better off running a larger RLT than (2) smaller RLXTs.
<Agreed>
My preference would be a single larger pump (with a 2nd as an emergency back-up).  I am also planning on installing a Turbelle Stream Pump on both sides of the tank pointed towards the center front.
<Nice units>
I also have the option of running a single unit on the center
overflow (5” x 16”).  If I did this, what would be the best direction to direct the flow?
<The two... at either end... perhaps with Tunze's timer...>
I guess the more turnover, the better, so I expect that the better option would be (2) streams, one on each end of the tank.
<Yes>
  My LFS has been spraying black expanding foam on their tanks.  It looks great in their 180 display.  The overflows are hidden by this foam and it creates a nice “wall”.
<Mmm... am concerned about this material in the long haul...>
They’ve also attached frags to it.  Although it looks great, I have long-term concerns about the product’s safety.
<Me too>
  Apparently Foster & Smith were the first to offer it for aquatic use, but they didn’t recommend it for saltwater use when I called them.  They stated it was created for pond use.  I know that Julian Sprung has mentioned the use of similar products in Europe for years, but he was unsure of the long term effects of its use as well.  Are you aware of these products?    
<Am... and I expect to see Jule's "Completely revisited and revised" opinion/spiel here as well... I wouldn't use it>   
  Thanks once again for your expert advice.  Having this wealth of experience a mouse click away is invaluable.  
Scott
<Glad to share, proffer my input. Bob Fenner>

Livestock Question, Adding Very Large Fish To A 210 Gallon  - 02/11/2007
Hello Crew!
<Hello Wayne!>
Thanks for offering a great service!  
<You're welcome!>
You guys/gals are awesome.
<Thank you for your most kind (and inclusive) words.  They are appreciated!>
I currently have a 210 gal FOWLR and a few softies, AquaC EV240, 55 gal Refugium/Sump, 200lbs LR, 384 watt PC lighting (getting upgrade in a few months to 1000 watt MH).
<Very nice!>
Current livestock:
9" Volitans Lion
2" Yellow tail Damsel
6" Harlequin Tusk
Zoanthids
Condi Anemone
Finger leather
<OK.>
I want to add the following with the understanding that I will not be going to a larger system.  210 is it!
<Heheee!>
Next fish to add...
Queen or Imperator Angel
<Beautiful!>
..and then
Sohal Tang
<Sweet!>
I know the angels and tangs can get quite large, but I've seen/read accounts of tanks smaller than mine with many more fish.  
Do you think I'd be ok with this list?
<I do think so.  I'm guessing you realize the Sohal can be highly territorial and a big bully, but what a fish!>
Thanks again!  
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Wayne

Livestock Question, 210 gallon - II - 02/11/2007
Thanks Mich
<You're welcome Wayne! >
I do realize the Sohal can be aggressive.  
<I figured.>
My plan was to buy him small, and add him last.  
<A good plan.>
Hopefully he will remember everyone one being much larger than him.  
<Hopefully!>
Maybe that will prevent him from bullying.
<Possibly.  I did see a beautiful (and big!) Sohal yesterday at the Riverbanks Zoo...in a 5500 gallon tank!  A very striking fish indeed!>
Thanks again.
<Welcome again!  -Mich>

Mixing, Matching and Modifying a Stocking Plan - 02/09/2007
Dear WetWebMedia Crew Member,
  I'm back again with more questions! Yay! If you can recall I sent you a message before. I modified my plan that I once had and NOW I have the perfect plan, hopefully. I have a 55 gallon aquarium that I'm going to light with 390 watts of light (VHO) (6x65watts) that comes with led lights and three switches to control the lights. Three model 228 Power Sweeps (with pre-filter sponges), 270gph each will circulate the water (one at each end and one in the middle). Both the powerheads and the light have timers. The filter is up to a 75 gallon aquarium (capacity) wet/dry filter sump/refugium, dimensions are 20''(length) X 8''(width) X 12''(height), refugiums capacity is 15 gallons and 635 gallons per hour, lighting for the refugium is 2 X 13 watt power compact light included with grow lights 1- 10k sun bright, and 1- actinic 420nm (blue bulbs are included), please visit this site for more information:
Link
  I don't know very much about this kind of filter/skimmer brand. Here are the brands:
  turbo queen ts 2000 skimmer
Catalina Aquarium - 1800 pump + CA 2300 pump
CA - 2 X 13 watt power compact hood
Catalina aquarium - overflow single drain. Please tell me if this is a good investment.
<I'd be asking about on some of the BB's re this brand... I prefer others... the skimmer and pump in particular...>
There will be a 200 watt Theo heater also, but in main aquarium (not in sump). Also I will have a 5" DSB with 50lbs of fully cured Fiji live rock in main aquarium and 10lbs in refug. All the same water qualities will remain the same and some (except the temp which I said was going to be 85 degrees Fahrenheit but that was just a typo, it's going to be around 75-77 degrees Fahrenheit). For the 30 gallon QT there will be a Oxygen Plus Bio-Filter 2 and Whisper Air Pump 40 (with airline tubing) to filter it. There will also be one model 228 Power Sweep (with pre-filter sponge), 270gph powerhead to circulate everything. I have decided to QT everything (including corals) for the appreciate amount of time with just the regular lights I already have. The water quality will closely match that of the 55 gallon.
  The fish that I plan to get include
  one small maroon clown (tank-bred or not),
  a small six line wrasse,
  a medium sized flame angelfish,
  and finally a prized purple tang (medium).
  I will add these fish in order of which I named them. I'm not going to change this list no matter what you say. I have already asked my marine biology teacher (who has a degree and has had plenty of experience in marine biology) and he told me it would be a good idea.
<... "It"... means? The Maroon may become insufferably territorial, and the Zebrasoma may have psychological issues in this small volume in time>
The inverts include
  super Tongan Nassarius snails (x10) (Nassarius distortus) and
  a scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp,
  I've also been thinking about getting some kind of brittle/serpent star but I'll have to look at those later (do a little research).
  The corals I wish to have are
  Fox Coral (could do without) placement near bottom,
  Evergreen Starburst polyp (aquacultured) Briareum sp. placement top,
  Super Colored Colony Polyp Zoanthus sp. placement mid-region,
  Silver Branch Pumping Xenia (aquacultured) placement mid-region,
  Van Gogh Acropora Coral and Cranberry Tip Acropora Coral (both aquacultured) both placement top,
  a Spotted Mushroom Actinodiscus sp. placement bottom,
  and a Red Wellsophyllia Open Brain Coral Trachyphyllia radiata placement bottom which will be the last to enter the aquarium because I still need to learn more about this specimen. I will also have a Halimeda plant (macroalgae). I'm just worried about my coral selection. They'll probably have "chemical warfare" like you say. And does it really matter what order I introduce them in? Just please tell me what order should I introduce things in and what I should "delete".
  THANKS!
  P.S.- sorry for any spelling errors if any
<I would place these cnidarians in "bio-systematic" order and as small colonies... Bob Fenner>