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FAQs about Elegance Coral Health/Disease & Pests 4

FAQs on Elegance Coral Disease: Elegance Coral Disease/Pests 1, Elegance Coral Health 2, Elegance Coral Health 3,
FAQs on Elegance Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 

Articles on: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Catalaphyllia Coral, Caryophylliids, Large Polyp Stony Corals

FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 

Elegance Corals, Elegance Corals 2, Elegance Coral Identification, Elegance Coral Behavior, Elegance Coral Selection, Elegance Coral Compatibility, Elegance Coral Selection, Elegance Coral Systems, Elegance Coral Feeding, Elegance Coral Reproduction, Caryophyllid ID, Caryophyllid Compatibility, Caryophyllid Systems, Caryophyllid Selection, Caryophyllid Behavior, Caryophyllid Feeding, Caryophyllid Disease, Caryophyllid Propagation/Reproduction,

Elegance coral, dying in/comp.     11/18/18
My Elegance Coral died so I removed it and did a water change. Same night I lost 80% of snails then 5 days later 2 clowns and a blenny started to act funny then passed. Do you think the Elegance dying could have created that or a chemical. (all crabs and shrimps not affected)
<Almost certainly it was caused by toxins released by your Elegance coral dying; do a large water change,40-50% and use a Polyfilter pad combined with a high grade activate carbon or ChemiPure, a couple of days later try adding some "test" fishes like bluetail Damsels (Chrysiptera sp). Please keep us posted on how it goes. Wil>

Troubled Elegance; rdg.      1/22/16
<Is there a full moon? Why don't you/folks read, follow our directions for file size?>
Dear Crew,
Before I took the risk of buying an Elegance Coral, I read countless articles. I came to the conclusion that if I didn't put powerheads on it with SPS lighting intensity I would be the success story!
Ha! I've had my coral about a week, and it has stubby tentacles and looks bloated. I don't know if it is doomed at this point.
<Just read my bit on WWM re Catalaphyllia. Bob Fenner>
I was hoping to get an opinion on my lighting. It is a 7' long, 24" deep, 24" wide tank. I have a 48" Orbit led by Current and two 48" 54watt t5s (I have the t5s only on 6 hours). These are centered leaving the sides of the tank to be left dimmer. I placed the Elegance in the brighter part of the dim section of the tank (I hope this makes sense). Is it possibly getting
too much light? I have attached a picture. Thanks for your time.
Sincerely, Alyssa
Sent from my Sprint Phone.

Worried about or Elegance Coral; no data, rdg.       9/28/15
Thank you for all your valuable information on your website but I fear that we are still concerned and want to tap your knowledge and expertise to see if we can reverse any negative effects that our elegance coral is suffering right now.
Over night we have what appears the disintegration of the center section of our elegance coral see picture attached). Is it the positioning, an infection or something else altogether.
<Can't tell w/ the lack of data....>
Is there something we can do, please help!
<Move the specimen to a "dirtier" setting.... like a refugium w/ mud.... is there measurable N, P, K present?>
We love this beauty and would be so sad to see it go. Should we be concerned about our other corals if it is indeed an infection, we obviously don't want our other corals to suffer a similar fate.
Thank you so much in advance!
<.... have you read on WWM re Catalaphyllia? Bob Fenner>

Elegance coral and worms in skeleton     8/13/13
It's been ages since I've had to ask you guys for some help, usually reading through is all I need to do as you guys have so much knowledge on so many topics already. It's fantastic and super helpful in this hobby.
About 6 weeks ago a bought a small elegance, it was bagged and a acclimated it to the tank through drip, placed it on the sand in my tank, 30 inches below a 40 watt LED DIY light.
<Should be fine... at this "great" depth and lowish light... See my art. re Catalaphyllia captive husbandry on WWM. There are "stands" of this species from shallower (tens of feet) depths, but most in the last several years have been collected from several tens of feet... low light>
 It's been happy, getting fed Mysis, brine, and it's also been taking spectrum pellets which happen to fall into it every second day or so.
Tonight it closed up and I noticed three circular dents in the skeleton, which indented into the fleshy part of the coral. I noticed one of this dents when I placed it in the tank, but I thought they were empty and harmless misshapes in the rock. However tonight it appears to be that the little holes/dents actually contain flat headed cream coloured worms approx 6mm in diameter.
<Mmm, more likely these are (mesenterial) parts of the Elegance itself; showing themselves... >
They emerge from these hollow dents and are sensitive to light, when a torch is shined on them, they retract into the tubes which are embedded in the skeleton. The elegance seems to have grown around them, despite the animal being an entire cone itself, not fragmented off a reef.
<Yes; this is how this species "grows", lives... as a sort of "V" stuck in muck, bottom sand plus>
I'm not sure if they pose a problem, and am curious is some kind of dip may be best to get rid of them? What are you thoughts?
<Leave all as is, and do read the materials on WWM if you haven't already>
Thanks very much,
<As many welcomes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Elegance coral and worms in skeleton      8/19/13

Thanks for such a prompt reply, ill take a photo of the 'worms' next time I see them. It's more a tube worm facing up out of the skeleton rather than the small worm like filaments that are actually mesenterial... But I could easily be wrong haha. What I'm seeing are similar to worms which emerge out of large circular tubes on live rock sometimes
<A possibility; and quite common is some Poritids, Pocilloporids... Have rarely seen/encountered in Catalaphyllia... are perhaps "too stinging", fleshy...>
You don't think the lighting level may be too low?
<I'd use a PAR or PUR meter, measure at the place/site of the specimen... a score of  100 is fine here. BobF> 

Elegance Coral... rdg.    1/31/13
Hi Crew, I have a question about a elegance coral. I think I might made a boo boo. I went to my local fish store and bought this coral. It is green with purple tips, and is gorgeous. Well I don't think it is the version from Australia, I think it the other. So think I made a mistake. Should I take it back?
<See WWM re Catalaphyllia>
 It has been in my tank for about six hours now. I tried to feed it Mysis with a turkey baster and did not want food, and it did not stick to the tentacles. Is this a bad sign or is it still acclaiming and I am freaking out over nothing? Should I use tweezers to feed it next time? Here is a picture of it. I am just getting back into the reef tank world again. I bought a 29gallon biocube from a friend to start out before I went bigger.
Thanks for your time.
<... read, heed. BobF>


Re: Elegance Coral   2/2/13
Bob, How do you get them to take food? I have feed mine twice now. Mysis
<Need meatier, larger fare>
 yesterday when lights were on and tonight when lights are off. I used a Turkey baster both times and read a lot of articles about them being swelled up, short tentacles, but still lost on feeding. I got him in the sand horizontal , with very little flow going his way. I do not want to pollute my tank with wasted food. There are only two inquires under Elegance feeding on WWM.
<Really? Just checked and you're right... Not to worry, this species is a voracious feeder when it's ready, healthy. Have patience. Bob Fenner>
 I read lots of articles, but not what i am looking for. Please help
Re: Elegance Coral   2/3/13

Bob, thank you I feel much better. Have a good day. 
<Thank you Jim. Did you see/read my olde article on keeping the species:
Harder to keep specimens from Indo. nowayears. Bob Fenner>

Re: Elegance Coral    2/3/13
Bob, Yes I did. I did not try to feed him yesterday, but will try again today. I will let you know what happens. Thanks, Jim P.S. Go Ravens!
<Heeee! I take it this Corvus reference has to do w/ spectator sports.
Cheers, B>
Re: Elegance Coral   2/3/13

My lights just came on and the coral is swollen with white snot on it. I read a post back in 2006 somebody wrote in and you said it could affect other corals. Should I remove and take it back to my lfs and throw it at them? This is why I only by <buy> from live aquaria and not my lfs. Jim
<Likely too late to be moving... I'd leave in place. B>

Re: Elegance Coral    2/4/13
Ok thank Bob. Fish are so much easier. This is why I have a 180 Fowlr and not a 180 reef. 29Gall biocube is fun for getting back into reef. I should of read more about the elegance before I bought it. Happy diving!!
<Cheers, BobF>

Info on Elegance Coral    11/17/12
I hope you can help me out a little bit here. I just have a two question for my Elegance Coral. 3 weeks back I bought a new Elegance coral, It did well for first week then half of the coral went retracted for day or two then inflated fully very nicely swaying tentacles stretched and inflated.
<Typical behavior>
week two went fine like that then couple of days back coral went retracted for two days again but it was inflating about 25% to its full size every now and then . Now for past two days it is inflating but 50%~70% of its maximum, is this its normal behaviour.
<Better for it to eventually re-inflate to full size, but not abnormal>
Second Question: Today evening I noticed the Coral sprayed out some white slimy / mucus particles from space between its skeleton and Flesh (disc of Tentacles) , and I noticed My Yellow Tang ate that slimy mucus thing, My Fairy Wrasse, and Yellow Tang slightly nipped on the coral as well.....  
Is my coral sick and what was that slime thing?
<Tissue... not good>
 if Toxic why would Yellow Tang feast upon it?
<Not toxic; perceived as food>
, I have also added some Seachem Phytoplankton twice in this span of time.
<For what purpose/s? Not a food...>
I have other corals that seem fine (Magnificent Anemone, Zoanthids, Mushrooms, Trumpet, Finger Leather Coral, Toadstool Mushroom, Xenia, Flowerpot, Frogspawn, Orange Sea Sponge)
<Mmm, well, these aren't all corals, and many are dangerously allelopathogenic... Not compatible.
Could be an/the issue w/ your Catalaphyllia. Umm, read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above, till you grasp the gist...>
Fish: Pair of Clown Fish Normally Spawning every 3rd Week, 1-Yellow Tang(small 2"), 1-Fairy Wrasse.
SG: 1.024  PH:8.2  KH:9  Ammonia:0, NO2: 0, NO3: 10, PO4: 0.025, Calc: 400, Mag:1200, Temp:81F   lighting: MH 1x150w 1400K+ 2x20w T5 + 2x20w Actinic  (Tank Size:40G +15G sump)
<Uhh, and read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm
and all the Related FAQs files linked above re this species. Bob Fenner> 

Elegance frag separated from shell...rdg.      9/23/12
I successfully fragged my elegance about 6 months ago (I know, stupid idea but my beginners luck paid off). Today I found the smallest of the frags had separated from it's shell.
<Mmm, skeleton... not shell>

It looks perfectly healthy otherwise. The larger frags look fine as well.
Right now, it's drifting around when I turn the filters on. Any tips on reestablishing the shell?
<I'd wrap (loosely) some monofilament or stout thread about the tissue and the detached skeleton>
(calcium? Or is it too late?) I don't want to glue the underside.
Water temperature is around 82, other tank conditions are normal. Tank is a 34 gallon RSM.
<... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Elegance frag separated from shell 9/23/12

Thanks for your tip. I read online that elegance corals drop buds occasionally. Do you think the elegance bud will grow a new skeleton if it finds a safe place to recover?
<No... highly unlikely... it will probably die... I'd be... reading. B>

Catalaphyllia Chilled 11/1/11
Good morning all.
<Good morrow Beth!>
I have a question regarding the recovery of Catalaphyllia after exposure to cold water. We had a lovely October snow storm and the power went out in my house while I was at my mothers wedding. The set up is a 125 mixed reef that has been running for 6 or 7 years. The water temperature was down to 69 degrees Fahrenheit when I got home and started the generator. It took 24 hours to get the tank back up to 74 which is where I usually keep it (I realize it is a rather abrupt change but so was the drop in temp).
All corals appear to have recovered except the 2.5 year old elegance. The poor thing has shriveled up and although the tentacles and feeding mouths are visible and the color is good, it is neither expanding nor feeding.
Shall I just leave it be and pray?
<Yes I would>
If there is no sign of recovery, should I remove it?
<Patience here>
I know some of the more toxic species have a tendency to decline then rapidly melt down, poisoning the tank in the process.
Average Temp 74 f
Spec Gravity 1.024
Nitrate 20ppm (ranges from 10-40 tank is heavily fed)
Calcium 400
Lighting LED's (Elegance is not directly under lighting but rather in front. Placement has always been buried in the sand bed as is natural)
Water changes 30 gallons every 2 to 3 weeks
Feeding 2X a day making sure LPS get their own small bits (rather than a large feeding every 2 or 3 days the LPS get whatever the fish get in smaller, more frequent intervals. I always thought it would be closer to their natural habits)
I will not include stock unless requested (too much). Suffice to say that the Catalaphyllia has thrived for over 2 years and shown growth to the skeleton.
Fingers crossed for a positive response.
<Good. My experience has been that this genus/species is often slow/er to recover from such environmental insults... As long as it is not outright decomposing, I'd leave it be... where it is... and offer some food every few days. Cheers! Bob Fenner>
Re: Catalaphyllia Chilled 11/4/11

Thank you Bob for your council of patience. The coral is expanded to about 75% of its previous size and finally accepting food again.
I am sure that by the end of the weekend it will show no signs of last week's stress. And to think I considered disposal.
<Well, I am an eternal "never say never" type re livestock... HAVE witnessed so MANY times when what was apparently gone... resurrected itself ala the Phoenix. Cheers, BobF>
Beth B

Elegance Coral health problem 8/5/11
Greetings WWM crew. And apologies in advance for sending out a redundant question; I see many people have had a similar issue to the one I'm going to describe, but I have yet to find an answer that matches my quandary or offers recommendations that I've not already tried.
Over the last few days, my 2 month old
<I assume then that the other Cnidarians shown in your tank/system image pre-date this introduction; including the anemone in the left corner>
(since I purchased it) Aussie Elegance Coral won't open fully. It's tentacles are partially inflated, but it's oral disk remains closed and I haven't seen it take food. My tank is a quite crowded but very healthy 55 with an assortment of LPS, a few leathers, and a couple of SPS. Specifications: 0 ammonia, nitrate and nitrite, 8.2 ph, 11 alkalinity, 480 calcium, 1250 magnesium,
<Low in ratio to the CA, but not the issue here principally>
a very slight trace of phosphates, and 1.026SG; 30 gallon sump/refugium running 2 reactors (1 carbon, 1 Phosban);
<Perhaps this is a factor; nutrient deprivation... Catalaphyllia live in nutrient rich mud... all chemoautotrophs need measurable NO3, HPO4>>
T5 fixture with 3 actinic and 3 white; mediocre protein skimmer
(Coralife, but I forget the specific type) . The specimen in question is positioned in the lower right corner of the tank, somewhat shaded from my lights by a Kenyan tree leather about 12" above. Also, low flow (gentle movement of EC's tentacles), and no direct contact with any other corals.
The EC was opening beautifully daily (filling up the entire corner), until about a week ago when I found a yellow knobby sea cucumber affixed to its skeleton/base. This Cuke seemed to be bothering the EC (as that it was only partially open), so after 48 hours of not moving away from the EC, I physically removed it. The EC's position in the tank has not changed, but since the encounter it has failed to fully open again. It starts the day quite contracted, but usually, around the time the lights go out, it's about 1/3 - 1/2 its former size; however, it never opens to its previous, impressive self.
I ran into a similar problem with my previous attempt to house an EC.
I chalked the last death up to a negligent tank-sitter who no-showed for the week I was vacationing, along with the fact that it was a frag from a questionable LFS and so had encountered earlier stress. This recent EC was not fragged,
<Not good candidates>

and came from a more reputable LFS. Also, I feed a variety of frozen and liquid foods, target feeding the EC with oyster feast.
Iodine supplement of 2 drops 2-3x per week. Using Salinity salt mix, along with RO/DI water. Not sure what else I can tell you, but if there's any information I left out please let me know and I'll quickly respond.
The only other odd thing going on in this tank is a pipe organ coral that has not opened in roughly 2 weeks. And yes, that is one huge LTA in the left corner that I have tried to box in to keep it from fighting the pagoda cup above. The new, massive tank is coming, but not until next July when I've completed my relocation 2000 miles from my current address.
Thanks in advance for any advice you may share.
<This is a classic case of allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/elegcorcompfaqs.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
And write back if you have further questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>

Catalaphyllia at lower right

Re: Elegance Coral health problem 8/5/11
Bob, thanks much for the reply. To clarify, both of the pictures were taken
at the same time. Most of the other tank inhabitants/Cnidarians were established well before (several months to one year) the Elegance was introduced. As for fragged EC's: are you saying that it's best to buy ones
that have been fragged, and that unfragged EC's are 'not good candidates'?
<Sorry for the confusion. Mean/t that this species is not a good candidate for dividing period. Doesn't take well to breaking, cutting>
Finally, do you think the reason the pipe organ is remaining closed is also due to allelopathy?
<More likely from a lack of (chemical) nutrition>
I run generous amounts of carbon to help with the fighting, but keep the EC in a low flow, solitary corner where detritus tends to accumulate. Plus my red Goniopora is thriving, and I thought they liked nutrient rich water as well.
<Mmm, well, the best course of action would have been and is now to remove the Catalaphyllia, slowly acclimate it per the link you were referred to; daily mixing of some water twixt systems>
I sure love the hobby, but every day brings another lesson to be learned.
And I never thought these animals would grow as fast as they have! A larger tank can't come soon enough.
Best to you and your team,
<Welcome. BobF>

Re: Elegance Coral health problem 8/15/11
Greetings Bob
<Salutations Eric>
I wanted to provide an update on my elegance coral in hopes that it might help others with a similar problem. As the picture I've attached indicates, the EC has drastically improved since I first contacted you.
<Ah good>
In order to help it out, I've done 2 ten gallon water changes (using salinity salt mix) on my 55 system (with 30 gallon sump/refugium), added fresh black diamond carbon, and most importantly (I think) started target feeding the tank and EC specifically with reef nutrition Phyto-feast and oyster-feast.
To clarify: for some reason, when I ran out of the phyto-feast several weeks ago, I didn't bother to replace it since I had a similar frozen food on hand. Some corals in my tank started looking a little rough, but I had decided it was because of allelopathy rather than diet (as that my tank is crowded and I had a declining sea fan). I eventually remembered the change in diet, and when I started back up with the liquid phyto feast things began to turn around. The elegance coral, which had stopped opening fully and was in quick decline (I often hear people worrying about similar problems, which seems to elude remedy), perked up shortly thereafter and is now eating silversides. Its oral disc opens fully during the day, its polyps are completely extended, and it only closes partially once lights go out.
I don't know if it was one of these changes or all if them in tandem that helped my EC to recover, but I thought that sharing my positive experience might be helpful. However, I should note that since regular water changes and carbon use are standard for my set up, I'm inclined to credit the return to phyto-feast as the most important change.
Hoping the positive turn lasts,
<Thank you for this follow-up. BobF>

Catalaphyllia jardinei Receding. Why?? :o( /Catalaphyllia Health 11/11/10
Hey guys,
Really devastated to right this msg :( My Catalaphyllia jardinei was ok when I put it in a week ago but not any more. Here are some pics I posted on UR for you to see:
Any ideas?
I really love to save this beautiful coral but I honestly don't know why..
<Start by reading/learning here and related articles/FAQs found in the header.
Many thanks for your prompt reply guys..
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Awaiting yours.

A bit too close to the Zoanthid on its left. RMF

Re Catalaphyllia jardinei Receding. Why?? :o( /Catalaphyllia Health 11/11/10 - 11/12/10
That's an old photo. Have moved the Catalaphyllia almost 20cm's fm the zoa's. Still not opening:(
<I've read where I referred you and there isn't too much I can add to that other than the fact that they are sensitive to many species of soft corals. Your substrate does not appear to be to their liking as
they are found in soft sandy/muddy bottoms. Their tissue is easily torn/punctured due to abrasion which can result from being placed on coarse bottoms and/or among live rock. I suggest you read again, especially the FAQs on Catalaphyllia health, compatibility, and systems.
James (Salty Dog)><<Well-done/stated James, B>>

Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10
Hello Crew,
<Hi Drew>
I've been reading the FAQ about Elegance corals now I'm more confused than I was before. To start I would like to cut and paste a question that I posted on another board which is the reason I started reading here in the first place.
"I added an Aussie elegance from Dr F&S on May 21st. It was doing very well in my system until about two weeks ago. Around the time the coral started going down hill the changes to the tank were: 1. Added one rock Mag and two rock Mag Jr. http://aqua-mags.com/index.html 2. Added some Zoa frags (dipped in revive prior to adding to tank) 3. The sediment and carbon block filters clogged on RO/DI unit (I'm not sure how much water was produced using the rest of the system) 4. Attached frags with a combo of super glue gel and underwater epoxy putty. 5. Minor reaquascaping 6. Repaired return plumbing leak. I noticed a drip from the threaded return bulkhead. Tried to tighten and it cracked. All I had handy was a slip/slip bulkhead so; I used PVC primmer/glue to replace the bulkhead and a few fittings. I let it dry about six hours prior to restarting the return pump. The hose between the pump and PVC pipe popped off dumping 6 gallons of top off water into the system. I didn't have enough mixed salt water on hand to replace what was lost. While mixing a new batch of SW there was another six hours with the return pump off. The only flow in the tank while this was going on was two MP10's The coral looks a little better than it did last week. It ate on Tuesday but not on Thursday. I feed PE Mysis to my corals on Tu/Th/Su. Other things I have done to try and bring it around are: 1. Replaced sediment and carbon filters on RO/DI unit 2. Water change (only one though I didn't want to make more water until I could change the filters on RO/DI) 3. Changed carbon in reactor I also removed the GFO so I could max out the flow through the carbon. I plan on doing water and carbon change tomorrow. Should I dip the coral in revive?
<Isn't going to help your problem.>
What else can I do to save this coral?" My tank is a standard reef ready 75 Gal with 30 Gal sump. For filtration there is 80lbs live rock, SWC Extreme160 protein skimmer, dual media reactor that I use GFO and carbon in, I also have a refugium with live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha algae. For in tank flow there are two MP10's on random lagoon mode dialed back to about 60%. The lighting is a six bulb T5 fixture.
<The biggest problem I see here is too much water flow. Those MP10's without a controller put out around 1500gph each, way too much flow for Elegance Corals. Secondly, it sounds like your system water is too pure. Elegance Corals do better with some nitrates/nutrients present in the water.>
Tank parameters are: SG: 1.026 PH: 8.0 Ca: 450 Mg: 1500+ Alk: 7.4 DKH trying to raise to 8 Ammonia: 0 No2: 0 No3: 0 I have attached three pictures the first a full tank shot was taken on July 25 while the coral was healthy the second was taken Aug 5th now that its not doing so well. the final picture is of my fuge in reference to question 5 Here are some of the questions I developed while reading the FAQ 1. Is my substrate too course? Mud or fine sand is mentioned
<Yes, the membrane on these corals cut very easily. Fine sand is best.>
2. Would two MP 10's on a 48" tank produce too much flow for the elegance?
<Oh yes.>

3. Does the center support on the tank shade the Elegance enough? I can raise or lower the fixture as required.
<I do one thing at a time, and I would start with flow reduction. Secondly, get the coral off the course substrate. As a temporary means, place some fine sand in a small Rubbermaid container and place the coral on the sand.>
4. Should I feed the coral PE Mysis or 1/4" sections of frozen shrimp? 5. Is my fuge suitable to house my coral? (As a last resort I like looking at it )
6. Should I not use GFO any more to help raise NO3 in my tank?
<?? Ferric Oxide isn't going raise NO3.>
7. do you need any more information to help save my favorite coral?
<Nope, you do. Read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm>
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10
<Hello Drew>
I would like to do a follow up on the heath of my coral. It has been about a week since I requested help as you can see by the attached picture the coral is doing a little better.
<It seems to be doing a little better.>
I did notice some tissue necrosis earlier in the week but that has stopped.
The corrective actions I have attempted are reducing the flow on the left MP10 to 40% and the right one to 25%. I also moved the coral to the right side of the tank placing it on a Tupperware lid and surrounding it with a finer substrate. I have been trying to stabilize alkalinity at 9.0 dKH with Seachem Reef Builder. I'll be testing daily for another week until I can get a feel for how much of a daily dose I will need to develop a routine. I have also stopped target feeding the coral with PE Mysis as I noticed one of my wrasses stealing food from it. The final thing I have done is stop rinsing the food in an attempt to raise the nutrients in the tank. I notice the greatest improvement with the raise in alkalinity.
The current parameters are:
PH 8.1
SG 1.024
NO3 0
Alk 8.6 dKH
Ca 440
Mg 1500 <Too high, 1200-1300ppm>
Now on to the questions:
1. How long should I wait to try something else?
2. The current substrate is CaribSea Super Reef if I need to change substrate in the whole tank what average grain size should I get?
<I would go with sugar size grain such as CaribSea's Aragamax Sugar Size Sand.>
3. How long should I keep that plastic lid under the coral?
<I see in this pic that the coral is attached to a piece of live rock and not resting directly on the sand bed so you can remove the plastic lid. You also mentioned a wrasse, if it is one of the burrowing species, they much prefer a finer sand also. Coarse sands tend to scratch their skin.>
4. What else can I do to improve the heath of the coral?
<Time and patience, and do read the link I referred you to earlier.>
Thank-you for your time and support,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 6/27/10
One more follow-up on my Elegance please. I've attached a current picture of the elegance I've been writing about. As you can see it is doing much better except the coloration has not returned. It has been about two weeks since the last time I wrote. How long should it take to color back up?
<Tough to answer, too many variables.>
The one thing we have not discussed is the lighting. I'm using an AquaticLife six bulb T5 fixture eight inches over the water. The bulbs are All the ATI brand, they are configured front to back as follows:
Blue plus
Aqua blue special
Aqua blue special
Blue plus
The blue pluses/actinic are on ten hours a day and the aqua blue specials are on for eight. The coral is located just to the left of the cross brace on the sand bed 22 inches under the lights. Should I make adjustment to the lighting?
<I would, you have way too much blue. I would replace the blue plus and aqua blue special lamps with 10-12K lamps. These corals need more of the "white" light to better promote photosynthesis. The actinics will still give you that color "pop" most folks desire.>
Thanks again,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 8/27/10
Oops, forgot to mention that indeed, your Elegance appears to be doing better.
James (Salty Dog)>
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