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FAQs on Betta Diseases/Health 18

Related Articles: Anabantoids/Gouramis & Relatives, Betta splendens/Siamese Fighting FishBetta Systems, Betta Diseases, Improved (Better?) Products for Bettas!,

Related FAQs: Betta Disease 1, Betta Disease 2, Betta Disease 3, Betta Disease 4, Betta Disease 5, Betta Disease 6, Betta Disease 7, Betta Disease 8, Betta Disease 9, Betta Disease 10, Betta Disease 11, Betta Disease 12, Betta Disease 13, Betta Disease 14, Betta Disease 15, Betta Disease 16, Betta Disease 17, Betta Disease 19 & Bettas in General, Betta ID/Varieties, Betta System, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Nitrogen Cycling, Betta Behavior, Betta Compatibility, Betta Selection, Betta Feeding, Betta Reproduction

pictures of my betta 05/09/08
I just took some photos of him and attached them so you can maybe see how severe the illness is. I would really appreciate any advice you guys have.
<Yikes, that's one sick betta. It definitely looks like it's starving. If you're feeding it well, then this would be a symptom of something else. Here are some resources:
http://www.bubblenest.com/
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm>
-Erika
<Best,
Sara M.>
Re: pictures of my Betta... in an unheated, unfiltered bowl... hypochondria sans knowledge 05/14/08
Thank you for the links! From your website, I've discovered that he has fin and tail rot which I'm treating him with Bettafix for. He seems to be getting some of his color back and he's spreading his fins out occasionally again. However, I'm worried about the lump under his chin. What do you think it is and what can I do for it?
<Can't tell...>
The fish specialist at Petsmart said it could be an internal infection or ulcer so she recommended "Anti-bacteria food by Jungle."
<I would just wait...>
I've been feeding him this for about 4 days now and I don't see any significant changes except that he is blowing bubbles whenever I'm near him or I try to feed him. He only eats a tiny piece of the crushed up pellet and sometimes none at all. It's almost like he's too preoccupied with blowing his bubbles to eat and I'm worried that he's dying because he's always eaten like a pig, until about a week ago when I noticed he was really sick. I would give him Maracyn because that is supposed to treat finrot and lots of other infections, but he is in about a 2-quart, little fish bowl with no heating or filtration.
<... this is the root of the trouble... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm
the third set down... Betta Systems... you're killing this fish>
The fish specialist at Petsmart said it would be too strong for him. Would you recommend that I get a small tank with a heater and filter for him so I can give him the Maracyn, or can he be healed in the bowl with just the medicated food, a pinch of aquarium salt and Bettafix alone?
<The fish will die prematurely in the present circumstances. It does not need "medicines">
I would worry about transferring him to a new tank with a new temperature in his condition. I guess what I need to know is what can I do that would be the best for him? -Erika
<Keep reading, save your medicine money... Bob Fenner>

bettafix not helping fin and tail rot  05/09/08
Hi! This question is for Bob. I have a smaller male betta fish with quite a serious case fin and tail rot, I'm pretty sure based on what I've read on here. I have had him since last August and he has about a 2 quart bowl with no filter or heating system. I used tap water with Prime by Seachem brand conditioning drops that remove chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia, and detoxifies nitrate, and nitrite, and provides a slime coat. The room temperature was always sort of on the colder side about 65-70 degrees because I was living in a college dorm with a roommate who liked the room cold. I didn't know that colder temperatures could be harmful to bettas. I would change the water about every 2-3 weeks because it would develop a slimy-cloudy film on top. I always fed him one food pellet a day and sometimes an extra one because he always ate like a pig. Around the middle of this past April, I noticed parts of his fins starting to disappear like they were being torn off and he was not spreading them out like he used to. I immediately changed his water and didn't think that it was anything serious because he was still acting normally. Then a few days later, I brought him home with me from college for the summer. My house temperature is much warmer (about 77-79 degrees.) A few days after I was home, I noticed that he didn't seem to be feeling well and a little more of his tail and fins were missing. I went to Petco and asked the fish expert what it could be and what I should do. She gave me Bettafix medication. I changed the water to my home tap water and added the prime and bettafix medicine as directed. I continued to add the Bettafix for 7 days without changing the water as directed. On the 8th day, I noticed he looked like he was getting worse. So I changed the water and some tiny pieces of his fin came off in the net. He also looked very pale, he's an aqua blue color, but he looked like a pale-translucent-blue-grey I went online and looked up betta diseases and fin and tail rot seemed to match my fish's condition. I freaked out and rushed to petco to get a better medication. I told them the bettafix they gave me before wasn't working and what was happening to his fins. The fish "expert" told me that he probably wouldn't make it and gave me a different type of bettafix and aquarium salt. I changed the water, added the prime conditioner, a pinch of the salt, and the new bettafix. This was yesterday (5-6-08.) Then I fed him and he ate like a pig as usual. This morning he looked like he was feeling better, he was vibrant aqua and his fins and tail were spread out. Then, this afternoon he started to look sick again with his fins and tail clumped together. I tried feeding him but when he tried eating the pellet, it was like he couldn't get it in his mouth. He kept missing it or he wasn't opening his mouth wide enough, or it was too big. So I cut the tiny pellet in half and he finally was able to eat 2 halves. Eating has never been a problem for him before so I'm really worried. So, I went to petsmart and I learned that the old bettafix I used and the new bettafix I was using was the same thing in a different bottle. I checked both of them and they both have .2% of melaleuca in them. I read on the internet that bettafix is good to treat fish who have mild cases of fin and tailrot or who are recovering from it, and in secondary cases, they need something stronger. The girl at petsmart told me that any other medication would be too strong for him because he is in such a small bowl. But if he has a serious case of fin and tail rot, then will the bettafix be enough to stop it? I read that online that I should try Maracyn-TC by mardel, is that a good choice? Please tell me what I can
do to save him.
-Erika
<Erika, "bettafix" and other tea tree oil-based products are indeed very unreliable and (in my opinion) not worth using. Maracyn would be a much better bet for fixing Finrot on a Betta. So yes, use that. Salt is neither here nor there when treating Finrot, but do remember that lowland Betta species like Betta splendens like quite warm water so certainly maintain the tank at around 25-28 degrees C. Frequent water changes and good filtration are also critical, because ultimately Finrot is caused by poor water conditions. Don't force food into the poor little chap, and if he doesn't want to eat right now, don't worry about it. When he gets better, his appetite will return. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: bettafix not helping fin and tail rot  05/14/08
Thank you so much for your quick response! I bought a 1 gallon tank with a pump and filter,
<Read again... tropical fish... needs a thermostatic heater>
and some new stones to go at the bottom. I also bought Maracyn two
<Stop!>
because the diagnosis guide said it was for sick fish who won't eat and it treats internal infections as well as the fin and tail rot. I transferred him to the new tank with the Maracyn two (I had added 1/5 of the powder in the packet because it is 1 packet per 5 gallons.) The water temperature is about 76-77 degrees F. I gave him some freeze dried mixture food that includes bloodworms, mysis shrimp, and daphnia. He ate a small piece of it. Then he just laid in the bottom of the tank, completely listless for a couple of hours. Then he went to the top and he was just floating at the top of the tank, letting the water move him. He looked like he was in a trance or on drugs or something. When I would go up to him and talk to him he would swim a little and he ate a couple more tiny pieces of food. Is this trance-like state something I should be worried about? Is he healing or is he having a bad reaction to the Maracyn? What signs can I look for that will tell me if he is recovering?
Thanks for all your help!
-Erika
<Read, stop pouring money into medicines... the real problem here is environmental, not pathogenic. BobF>

Re: bettafix not helping fin and tail rot -05/15/08
Hi Bob!
<It's Neale today.>
Thanks for your advice! In regards to the heater, I bought a thermometer that sticks on the outside of the tank and it has been reading 78-80 degrees F. Do I still need a heater?
<Unless you home is heated to a constant 25 C/ 77 F, then yes, your aquarium needs a heater.>
If so, I'll go out and get a 5 gallon tank because the smallest volume that the heaters at the pet store will take, but I don't want to over heat him.
<Indeed not. Look at the cost difference between 5 and 8 or 10 gallon tanks; the difference in price is usually trivial, but the difference is hobby value is dramatic. With an 8 or 10 gallon tank you could add plants, snails, shrimps... generally make a nice little "underwater world" instead of a bowl.>
I would have bought the 5 gallon tank to begin with, but he's just one tiny fish. Should I look into getting a tank-mate for him?
<Usually not a good idea to mix fancy Bettas with other fish, and certainly never add any other kind of fish to a tank a mere 5 gallons in size.>
I'm not sure how he would respond to that in is ill condition and I'm afraid even another tank change could be too stressful for him.
<Moving him to a bigger, healthier tank can *only* benefit him. Remember, he's a fish, not a person. He doesn't care much about "familiar surroundings", but what does matter is clean water, the right temperature, etc.>
From what I've learned from reading, I need to get a gravel vacuum and sponge filter right?
<Gravel vacuum cleaners are a gimmick, and total overkill in a 5-10 gallon tank. But sponge filters are ideal for Bettas.>
Also, are you sure that he doesn't need medicine to get well because if it's an infection, than doesn't he need an anti-biotic to kill it?
<Antibiotics are for treating bacterial infections. If he has Finrot, then yes, antibiotics are important. But otherwise there's no need to use them.>
Or do you think he has no infection?
<Not obvious from these photos. Finrot is very distinctive: frayed fins, white/pink decaying tissue, often streaks of blood vessels obvious along the fins.>
I'm afraid if I don't give him the medicine, he'll die. He's hanging in like a champion for all he's been through the past 4 weeks. I know he had fin and tail rot, but his fins have stopped shrinking and are strengthening.
<Then he's improving. Finrot is a "symptom" of poor water quality; it's a sign the fish's immune system was overwhelmed by the normal bacteria in the water. In poor water, the immune system is stressed, so these bacteria that normally don't cause problems end up damaging the fish.>
The other symptoms he had a few days ago led me to believe he had another type of disease (listlessness, not eating, black/swollen gills, loss of color, clamped fins, lump under throat.) So, the Maracyn two seemed necessary. Today is day 3 of Maracyn treatment and he appears to be doing much better. The Maracyn two seems to be helping. He is eating small, crushed pieces of food now instead of just blowing bubbles when I put the food in. I crush one pellet and sprinkle a pinch of the freeze dried melody in there once in the morning and once at night.
<All sounds pretty normal. Take care not to overfeed.>
I think I should lighten up a little though because he doesn't appear to be having bowl movements. He also looks a little bloated near the end of his body, he might be constipated. I was so concerned that he wasn't eating that I may have been feeding him a little too much the past 2 or 3 days. What do you think? He's also out of the trance like state he was in those 1st few hours of the Maracyn two treatment. He's constantly at the top of the tank, swimming around (he likes the bubbles from the pump.)
<Fish actually *don't* like bubbles much, and fish farmers use bubbles as "walls" to block fish into particular areas. You've perhaps also seen those whales that make bubbles to corral small fish into dense schools that can be eaten easily. So when you see fish attracted to the bubbles, it's much more likely the fish isn't getting clean, well oxygenated water. The aerated water with the bubbles is the healthiest patch in the tank, so that's where the fish goes.>
He also looked like he was getting some of his shiny aqua color back this morning. I think he is healing, but I could be wrong. What should I do? Should I stop giving him Maracyn two?
<Always a good idea to *finish* a course of medication.>
Should I get him a 5 gallon tank with a heater?
<Yes, or even a bigger tank with some Cherry Shrimps or something else that will be harmless but fun to watch.>
Should I keep him in the 1 gallon tank?
<No. 1-gallon tanks are death traps. They're a con, and shouldn't be on the market.>
I know I've spent quite a bit of money, but I'll do anything to keep him alive.
<Unfortunately, ALL animals are expensive to maintain. If your retailer told you this was a "cheap" pet they were misleading you.>
I appreciate all of the links, articles, and FAQ readings, I've learned a lot from them and I understand you and the crew spend tons of time telling people the same things over and over again, It must get tedious.
<Only tedious to know that lots of people don't read, and treat their pets as disposable ornaments. Those who ask questions, however often, aren't tedious at all, and are welcome at WWM anytime.>
However, my fish is in a very specific situation, and if you could, please tell me what I should do for him. I've attached some pictures I took just now. Thank you for helping me rescue my baby!
-Erika
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: bettafix not helping fin and tail rot 5/12/08
Thank you for your advice. It's been a few days and he seems to be getting better with just using the Bettafix and an Anti-bacteria food by Jungle the pet store fish specialist recommended.
<Bettafix is almost completely useless, but food with antibiotics may help, provided the fish is eating a sufficient quantity.>
They advised me to stay away from the Maracyn because it is meant for larger tanks and would be way to strong for him in his little fish bowl.
<Think about this for a moment, and judge for yourself. A concentration of 1 mg/l is one milligram per litre whether it's a swimming pool or a thimbleful of water. Logically, provided you dose the correct amount of medication relative to the volume of water, there's no risk of any kind whatsoever. If you overdose -- that may well be a bad thing. But that's a risk in any tank, whether a bowl or a jumbo aquarium.>
Now I'm concerned about a lump under his chin or on his throat that I just noticed could be related to his eating problem.
<Simply looks like a very underweight, sick Betta to me.>
I brought him to Petsmart and the fish specialist said it looks like it could be an ulcer, or some type of internal infection and that's when they recommended the special food.
<Hmm...>
I've been crushing one anti-bacteria food pellet and sprinkling it in his water about twice a day. Sometimes he eats a tiny piece, but he doesn't seem too happy with it.
<I bet.>
The food bottle says "Do not use other foods during this period and use exclusively for 5-10 days. After 5 days, should I let him take a break and feed him a treat like bloodworms? (I've never fed him anything but pellets before.)
<By all means let him eat something else once you've finished the treatment.>
Also, what could this lump be?
<No idea.>
Do you think he has a more serious infection along with the finrot?
<There's *nothing* more serious than Finrot. Let's be clear about this: Finrot is a secondary infection caused (almost always) by poor water quality. It means that Aeromonas and Pseudomonas bacteria in the water, where they normally do no harm, have overwhelmed the fish's immune system. They start by damaging the fins and skin, which is Finrot, but those same bacteria work their way inwards, ultimately leading to a blood infection (septicaemia) that kills fish. You MUST treat Finrot aggressively. I'd use Maracyn in this instance REGARDLESS of any (imaginary) risk because the fish WILL die otherwise.>
And can special food heal him alone?
<Unlikely if he's eating so small an amount.>
Are the pet store people right in saying that maracyn is too strong (because if his fins keep healing like they are and his color keeps coming back like it is then will bettafix be all I need?
<Bettafix is Tea Tree oil. If you had a septic wound, would you ask your doctor for antibiotics or some kind of herbal remedy that hadn't been tested by doctors and hadn't been validated scientifically?>
Also, one more little thing I've noticed. Whenever I'm with him or talking to him or feeding him, he goes up to the surface, takes big gulps of air and blows bubbles.
<Normal behaviour; these are air-breathing fish, and every minute or so will have to gulp air.>
I read online that blowing bubbles means bettas are happy and would like to mate, but if he's sick, it doesn't make any sense.
<You're thinking of bubble nest building, which is quite different.>
Can you help me solve this mystery illness?-Erika
<Well, I hope this helped! Cheers, Neale.>
Betta with very persistent tail rot - your help is greatly appreciated.   5/4/08
To whom it may concern,
Hi, I was given great advice in February 08 by Merritt and so I'm back with another Betta question.
<Merritt seems busy, perhaps with school. I'll give this a go>
I recently got a new Betta fish which I've named Opie.
<Am whistling the theme from Mayberry R.F.D. now... imagining losing even more of my hair, and directing blockbuster movies>
Opie had some tail damage when I bought him but I thought it was just from being in those horrible little cups the pet stores sell Bettas in.
<Does occur>
After having him for a while, it became obvious that his tail was getting worse . . . tail rot.
First, I treated him for 5 days with Maracyn 2 resulting in no change. I switched to Maracyn and began to see slow results. After ten days of treatment (the maximum the directions allow) I stopped and it seemed like his tail was growing back, then overnight, his neighbor Erroll seemed to catch the bacteria and had significant tail loss very very quickly.
Additionally the progress Opie's tail had made disappeared. At that point I figured that I cross contaminated the tanks with the cleaning pad and net I use. (Since then I've been careful to clean the net and pad with copious amounts of salt and MelaFix between use on the different fish that I own.)
I started another round of treatment on both fish. This time with Maracyn and Maracyn 2. I also put a divider between the bowls because it seemed that their displaying was causing their fragile fins to tear.
<Yes... too stressful to be in constant view>
They completed 5 days of meds. By this time Opie's tail was totally grown back but still clear and fragile and Erroll's was slowly starting to return so I halted treatment with both medications. Today (about three or four days later) Opie's tail has totally digressed again! I'm so bummed out, I hoped I had finally got him healthy. Erroll seems to still be healing but I did keep him on the Maracyn two additional days because I had two additional doses open already.
Is there a stronger, better gram positive antibiotic out there for Bettas?
<Mmm, yes... posted on WWM...>
Should I continue to treat for both + and - bacteria as a precaution?
<Gram negative almost always is at play... all that needs to be treated for>
The Maracyn directions say not to treat for more than two 5 day cycles. Can I treat longer?
<Neither a good idea, nor efficacious>
Unlike the Maracyn 2 directions the Maracyn directions don't indicate that water changes are required after treatment but I've done complete changes anyway. Could this be contributing to the relapses?
<Yes...>
I don't think it's related to the water quality. I really think Opie brought it home from the pet store. I'm good about cleaning their bowls regularly.
<... this is part of the problem as well... Need tropical, filtered settings... NEED. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm>
I've never before had any fin rot with my fish so I'm really motivated to finally solve this problem but it seems to be a very very persistent case.
My fish and I would appreciate any advice. Please help if you can.
Thank you in advance for your time and your thoughts. I'm very grateful for any help you can offer.
Kind Regards,
Andy
<There really is no "sense" of trying "other medications" w/o providing adequate environment... Fix their world... and they will heal. Bob Fenner>

Kinda worried...... (Betta, first aid)    4/27/08
I just got done cleaning my fish's fish aquarium, and I was going to put the fish back into the aquarium when my red beta fish freaked out, and flipped onto my desk. I got him back into the aquarium, but when I got him back in the aquarium, part of his back fin was ripped. I hear that their back fins can grow back, but now it seems like he can't control the way he swims anymore. He kind of starts swimming, but then he kind of floats on his side and "plays dead". When he floated to the top the first couple times, I thought because of the fall, he got a scratch somewhere, and it killed him. So I go to get my net, so I can get him out of the tank, and he swims away. I don't know if he is in pain, so it made him kind of depressed. Will he die if part of his fin ripped off? Will he die of depression?
freaked out and a worried fish owner. PLEASE HELP, Brogan
<Brogan: jumping out of a tank is unlikely to kill the fish, but secondary infections caused by superficial damage can. So your main job here is to [a] keep the water quality perfect (i.e., zero ammonia/nitrite) and [b] use an appropriate Finrot/Fungus medication such as Maracyn or eSHa 2000. Don't waste your time with salt or Melafix. Assuming the fish doesn't become infected with a secondary infection, yes, the fin will heal and yes, the fish will recover. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Kinda worried... (Betta, first aid)  4/29/08
thank you. He's swimming better now, but he stills plays tricks on me still. I'll try to get medication for Beauller (my red fish's name) ASAP.
<Ok. B>

Protruding Scales, Betta, using WWM   4/26/08
Dear WWM,
Hello; I have a Betta for 2 1/2 years now. Is Dropsy the only fish illness that can cause a slight case of protruding scales? Thanks for your help in advance - Jean
<... Dropsical conditions/Ascites... can be borne of a few factors... Use the search tool: http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
read the cached views. Bob Fenner>

Beta Fish Problem - Very Docile, Swimming Problems, Not Eating - No reading   4/25/08
Hi,
<Hello>
My girlfriend was given a beta for her birthday last December so have had him for just over 5 months. I have had a bit of a look/search through your website and others looking for some relevant info but have had no luck and am sufficiently worried that I have decided to email you hoping that you can get back to me quickly before it is to
<too>
late.
He came with a kit - smallish tank (approx 3+ litres) some rocks, plastic plant and some food (is a dried food in small pellets that floats on the surface for a while - ingredients being: white fish meal, shrimp meal, soybean meal, wheat flour, rice bran, wheat germ, yeast, vitamin etc) and 2 additives for his tank used when changing water (BettaRelax and Tension gon)
The water has been changed fairly regularly and he has been eating the food quite happily up until about 4 - 5 days ago, we were hoping this would pass and he would get back to normal but we are quite worried about him now.
The symptoms are as follows: He is very subdued, has been resting nearly permanently on the bottom of the tank, swimming around (with trouble) very rarely.
He does not seem to be able to make it to the surface to eat and we have not seen him eat for a couple of days.
His top fin (dorsal I think) is not standing straight as per normal but flopping down (hanging to the left).
He does not seem to be able to swim very well, is swimming on a bit of an angle and looks like he is really trying hard to swim but not succeeding (when he does try to swim - which is not to often).
He does not have any unusual colours or growths or anything that indicates to me some sort of disease, through his colour does seem slightly paler than usual though I am not 100% sure that it actually is.
His tank is not filtered or heated
<... this is the real problem...>
is rather small and does not contain any lighting. The temperature here in Australia has been dropping the last couple of weeks as well (coming into winter). I was originally worried about the lack of filter but as it was a kit I assumed that it was not required. I have read that temperature can be important but alas I do not have a thermometer available to me at the moment.
If you can help in anyway we would be greatly appreciative as things do not currently look to good for this poor beta.
Kind Regards,
Luke B
Perth, Western Australia
<Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

New owner of beta (as usual), got a couple questions   4/20/08
Hey! I'm a very young owner of beta, 12 years old (me, not the fish!),
<And a character!>
and I've got a couple questions. I have a tank that has a divider for my 2 beta.
<Bettas>
There were 2 dividers. There was a clear and a purple solid color. I haven't put the solid one in yet, so I put the clear one in. I understand that they are both males, and I shouldn't put them in the same space, but they can still see each other through the clear divider.
<I would not have them view each other continuously... a few days, a week, then use the more solid divider. Too exhausting...>
I had them for about a week. As I told you earlier in the message, I put the clear divider in, and they weren't fighting. Today I come in to feed them, and they were flaring their gills, and trying to fight each other through the divider. Do you have any
<... is natural... part of the reason for their common name: "Siamese Fighting Fish"...>
suggestions of why they started this out of no where?
I also would like to know if it would hurt to put a few extra pellets in their tank. I went to spend the night at my friend's house. I forgot to tell my dad to feed my fish before I left, so I was kind of worried. When I got back, my dad said he fed
them about 5 pellets.
<Won't starve. I would not overfeed if just a day or two...>
I told him he should of only fed him 3 because they are easy to be overfed, but I couldn't yell at him because he didn't know. I was just happy he fed him, but kind of scared to know if anything bad will happen for feeding them more than what he should have (by the way, I'm feeding them the Hikari Bio-gold pellets). Is that dangerous to the beta in anyway besides them being bloated? The last question I'm gonna ask is, if I was to put them in a bigger tank, would they still fight even if I put more fish in the tank with them?
Hope this is enough information
-Brogan Sheets
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm
and the linked files above; and the Net more widely, perhaps some library reading on Betta splendens... employ and enjoy your time wisely and enjoyably... through applied knowledge and understanding. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta sick - follow up   4/20/08
Hello,
Thank you again for your help. I have been out of town for the past week so I was not able to send you a thank you response earlier. I will take our Betta off the pellets and try the foods you recommended today. Thank you again.
<You're welcome. Good luck, Neale.>

Fish parasite or fungus? Betta   4/16/08
Dear WWM Crew:
<Heidi>
I have a male Betta in a 5.5 gallon filtered, heated tank. The tank has been set up for about a month. I use a sponge filter for up to 10 gallons. Temp is 80. It's still in its first cycle. Yesterday morning I noticed that on one part of his body,
<... this system is still cycling and you have the fish present?>
it looks like a scale is raised and a small white something is attached to the area. Or maybe his scale isn't raised and something else is attached to it.
Upon closer inspection with a magnifying glass, it looks like there is something white that is under his scale, causing the scale to protrude. OR something whitish a bit translucent is covering a scale.
When I look from the side, whatever it is is protruding very slightly. I saw no signs of distress yesterday or today and he is eating well, good appetite, color is good, no rubbing against anything, no darting or flashing, normal activity level and interaction, red streaks or signs of injury. Whatever is on him looks completely unchanged today. If you look from the side, it still looks like his scale is pushed out a bit, or something is still attached. I did a 50% water change this morning, ammonia and nitrites are at 0.
<Good... and nitrate?>
I've researched different parasite and fungus possibilities, but the white stuff doesn't look cottony and he hasn't been injured that I know of.
<Though this is the most likely scenario>
I guess it could be a parasite, but if so, it's doesn't seem to be bothering him at all. The white spot is not moving, nor does it seem to look like an anchor worm, fish lice, or ich. Could it be early stages of cauliflower disease?
Sincerely,
Heidi
<I suspect this is a mechanical injury... But you'd do well to have aquatic systems fully cycled, THEN introduce livestock. I would do nothing medicine-wise here. Bob Fenner>

Re: fish parasite or fungus? Betta   4/17/08
Bob,
<Heidi>
Thank you for your reply.
<Welcome>
Yes, clearly I have learned my lesson to never, ever trust what the local fish shop says, ever again. Clearly I should have cycled my tank first and done more research before buying my fish.
<Ah, yes>
However, I am doing the best that I can with the situation now. I suspect you were right about the mechanical injury and secondary fungus.
Yesterday I discovered that my Betta was also showing signs of fin rot; black/red at the edges, a fin split beginning, and fin degeneration at the edges. I've done another pwc to keep his water as clean as possible as he recovers. Although you suggested no meds at this time, it seems that with the additional fin rot, I should treat him with an anti-bacterial/anti-biotic.
Sincerely,
Heidi
<Some folks would suggest such. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/FWFinRot.htm
and the linked files above. I am more conservative (generally) in my approach here.
Bob Fenner>

my fish died... Betta reading  4/15/08
Hi,
I am hoping you can help me to understand why my fish died.
I got him as a wedding token about 5 months ago.
He is a Betta splendens and I read all the information about keeping him.
<lo dudo>
I change his water regularly,
<... in a filtered, heated system?>
I feed him small meals (tropical fish pellets from the pet shop) 3 times a day.
<... need more than this>
He was fine. One minute he was swimming like crazy in the tank and the next minute he was unmoving on the bottom.
What happened?
I attached his picture. Please help me.
Sarita
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Need info. Bob Fenner>