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FAQs on
Betta Diseases: Environmental (the most common cause)
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Betta Disease 2, Betta Disease 3, Betta Disease 4,
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Betta Disease 9,
Betta Disease 10, Betta Disease 11,
Betta Disease 12,
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Betta Disease 14,
Betta Disease 15,
Betta Disease 16,
Betta Disease
17, Betta Disease 18 ,Betta
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Betta Disease 20, Betta Disease 21
Betta
Health 22, Betta Health 23,
Betta Health 24, Betta Disease Causes/Etiologies:
Determining/Diagnosing,
Nutritional,
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(Bacterial, Fungal) ,
Parasitic: Ich/White
Spot, Velvet; Senescence/Old
Age, Cures/Curatives/Treatments,
&
Bettas in General,
Betta ID/Varieties,
Betta System,
Ammonia,
Nitrite,
Nitrate,
Nitrogen Cycling, Betta Behavior,
Betta Compatibility FAQs,
Betta Selection,
Betta Feeding, Betta Reproduction, |
Bettas are tropical fish... need consistently warm water
(a heater) that isn't too dirty (filtered) in a sufficiently stable (few
gallons) system, with suitable water (medium hardness, pH.. not usually
"bottled"). Without these yours won't live very long or well.
|
Help: Betta dying 9/27/09
Hi, I am desperately trying to save our poor fish.
<Oh dear.>
I noticed only a few days ago that he was darting around the tank
sometimes.
<Nervousness in fish is very often a first sign that environmental
conditions have declined sharply. Let's review. For a Betta, you want 0
ammonia and 0 nitrite. These are non-negotiable. You want a steady pH.
Any value between 6 and 8 is fine, but it shouldn't vary much from week
to week. Don't use water from a domestic water softener, but plain,
unsoftened tap water, with conditioner. Check your water conditioner has
something to remove ammonia, copper and chloramine if you suspect these
are possible issues in your area (best assume they are, and choose a
water conditioner accordingly). The temperature should be somewhat high
by fish standards, ideally 27 C/81 F or a degree or two higher.>
Then two days ago, he started darting and missing his food completely.
<Does sound environmental. Do a 50% water change, and see if the fish
settles down. If it does, that's a good sign water quality was the
issue, and you need to focus on aquarium size, filtration, and possible
overfeeding.>
He currently lives in a 5 gallon tank with filter and heater.
<Do you maintain the filter properly? Remember, it takes up to 6 weeks
for a filter to mature, and once that happens, you need to treat the
live media like a newborn baby! Seriously! Wash the sponge (or whatever)
in a bucket of aquarium water, and don't ever let it dry out. Change no
more than half the media in a filter in any one month.>
I feed him Betta pellets, but he hasn't eaten in two days.
<Pellets aren't acceptable every single day. While I don't think this is
the issue here, do mix his diet to include squished cooked peas (tinned
peas are good) and something with fibre, such as live (or wet frozen,
not
freeze dried) brine shrimp and/or daphnia. Dried foods, including
freeze-dried foods, commonly cause constipation.>
When he seemed to be acting strange, I took a good look a his tank. I
noticed black "hair like" algae or fungus (not sure) on some plants. So,
I removed the plants and did a 50% water change and added conditioner.
But,
he quickly went downhill yesterday. He is struggling to breathe. I did
not see anything on his skin to indicate disease. But, then as his
breathing grew heavier and more rapid, I noticed he was turning white
under his gills.
<Likely mucous, a sign of water quality issues, or perhaps poisoning.
Paint fumes, bug sprays, even heavy tobacco fumes can poison fish,
especially air-breathing species like Bettas.>
It grew worse quickly and he was laying on the bottom of the tank. He
would lay still for a while and than dart to the top of the water
frantically trying to get air. I have a plant with some roots at the top
of the tank.
He is laying in the roots, close to the surface. But, he is hardly
moving.
I feel so bad bc this happened so quickly and I didn't see anything
noticeable. Then today, it looked as if he may have fin rot. I noticed
his fins were looking ragged and a noticed a pinhole. So, I ran to
PetSmart and bought tetracycline. I added it to the tank. I have no idea
what to do.
<Strongly suspect environmental and/or poisoning.>
I did try and transfer him to freshwater, but he looked worse than when
he was in his tank. So, I put him back in his tank. It probably stressed
him out, but some advice I got was to put him in clean water in case
there is something in the tank. I am really upset bc I just don't know
if there is something we did or missed. He is really suffering right now
and is barely moving. It is breaking my heart. I feel so bad that he has
been in this state for two days. At this point, his body is losing some
color, but the only noticeable thing is the white near his gills and
white under his chin.
It doesn't look like he was salted as some have suggested. It looks like
his scales turned white. I purchased him about a year and a half ago. He
has done so well up until now. Oh, and there is a snail in the tank that
is doing well. I am at a loss. Any suggestions? Your quick response is
greatly appreciated! Danielle
<Do review conditions in the tank.>
PS. I also forgot to add that I had PetSmart test the water this
afternoon and they said that everything appeared normal.
<I don't believe this to be the case given the symptoms. "Normal" is a
vague term, and what I mean specifically here is that Bettas need 0
ammonia, 0 nitrite, a pH between 6 and 8, and a hardness level between 5
and 20 degrees dH.>
PPS. I just checked on him and he is laying in the roots, close to the
surface just struggling to breathe. But, his body is still very blue, It
is the area under his gills and chin that are white. He honestly doesn't
look that sick, in regards to color. Do you think he could have food
caught or a blockage? I do not see any swelling.
<Look at the environment. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Help: Betta dying 9/27/09
Thank you for your response. I really appreciate it.
<Happy to help.>
I just checked on him this morning and after a day laying in the same
position on his side at the top of the tank on some roots, he is on the
bottom of the tank- living. I can't believe he has made it 3 days like
this. I added tetracycline yesterday and wonder if that has helped him
at all.
<May do. Unlikely to see a sudden turnaround using an antibiotic,
though.>
I am not sure what you mean about the filter. So, let me say this... I
noticed last week there was a black gooey substance on the edge of the
filter. I took i off (probably from the carbon pack) and changed the
filter.
<Carbon largely useless in a tank like this. First understand what
carbon does: it removes dissolved organic chemicals (including
medications, which is why you MUST remove carbon before using any
medication). Carbon has no role in the "nitrogen cycle", i.e., the
conversion of the ammonia into harmless nitrate. This is why a filter
has [a] biological media, [b] mechanical media, and [c] chemical media.
For a Betta, biological media is the most important, which is why a
plain air-powered sponge filter is fine.
Small internal canister or box filters may be fine, if the water current
isn't too strong, but again, the media used should be things like
sponges and ceramic noodles. Carbon is largely redundant because the
stocking level is so low and you'll be doing 25-50% water changes every
week. No real value to carbon.>
I have not ever washed the filter. I thought I just change the filter
and put in a new carbon pack.
<No.>
What do you mean by "media"? You said I need to treat the live media
like a newborn baby and wash the sponge??? If you have a picture or can
explain this in greater detail, it would be MUCH appreciated.
<Hope have done so above.>
I do notice a lot of debris right now on the bottom of the tank bc the
medicine package said to remove the filter, so as to allow for the fish
to get all the antibiotics. I am so confused.
<No, the instructions said to remove the CARBON from the filter. The
mechanical media (i.e., the media that catches silt) and the biological
media (typically sponges and/or ceramic noodles) must, repeat MUST, be
left in the filter. There's no point medicating the fish if you're
removing the biological media, because the ammonia will go up and poison
your fish!>
I obviously thought the filter was just like a filter we use in our air
conditioner unit, where you change it when it gets dirty.
<No. It's more like Mother Nature. Waste comes out the animal's
backside, it hits the ground, bacteria process it, and it's rendered
harmless.>
Am I wrong?
<Yes.>
I didn't think they lasted that long.
<...>
I was going to do a 50% water change today and add in more tetracycline.
But, should I keep him in his own tank or should he be isolated. I only
have a snail in the tank with him. I felt that i made him worse when I
removed him yesterday for a bit.
How do I know about he nitrite levels, etc in the water? Petsmart only
had a dipstick and he colors showed normal. How on earth do I test to
find out the exact levels in his water???
<First answer this question: is the water you use plain, non-softened
water from the tap, treated with water conditioner? If the answer is
yes, then good. If the answer is no, then [a] don't use water from a
domestic water softener and [b] use a good all-around water conditioner.
Next up, you should have two test kits, one is a pH test kit and the
other is a nitrite test kit. You want the pH to be stable from week to
week, and the nitrite should be zero. Now, you can use the dip strips,
and I use them myself.
They aren't frightfully accurate, but all you're interested in is that
nitrite and ammonia are zero. If they're not zero, by however much,
that's bad. Liquid tests are perhaps more accurate, but they're a bit
more fiddly.>
Also, we live in a largely organic/green home. So, the poisoning seems a
stretch. I don't use anything with harsh fumes. I can only look to maybe
overfeeding or water quality. I use distilled water bc we live on well
water
<No! Do not use distilled water in an aquarium! Distilled water, by
definition, contains no minerals whatsoever. Among other things, this
means pH will drop rapidly over the days. You absolutely must use at
least some tap water, with water conditioner, to ensure adequate
dissolved minerals in the water. Even well water will be fine. A mix of
50% tap (well) water and 50% distilled water would also be ideal.>
and I didn't know what type of water conditioner they use in our well. I
know there is some type of water conditioner added to our well. So, I
have been using bottled, distilled water and adding top fin water
conditioner. I was told a once weekly water change.
<25% weekly is fine. Remove 25% of the water from your aquarium, and
then replace with a 50% mix of tap water and distilled water. Add water
conditioner. Should work fine.>
The rocks at the bottom of the tank look like they have some algae from
those plants I removed. But, I am afraid to clean them bc I don't want
to stress him out. Can you please advise as to what I should today with
him, now that he has made it through yet another night? Leave him in his
tank?
50% water change? add tetracycline? Put the filter back in?? That was my
plan... If you help me save his fish, I will be so grateful.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Help: Betta dying 9/27/09
One more question...
if he makes it and actually starts eating again, I have a question
regarding the cooked peas. Do I remove the skin of the peas and just
give him the soft center?
<Yes. Remove the skins, squish, and feed. Make take a while for him to
catch on, but they usually do. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Help: Betta dying 9/27/09
Thanks so much!
<You're welcome.>
I can't believe it, he is on the bottom of the tank, but moving today. I
tell you, he laid lifeless yesterday and I thought there is no way he
will make it through the night. But, I did notice that he now appears to
be rubbing his face against the rocks on the bottom of the tank.
<As I said before, a water change will often improve the health of
seemingly sick fish. If that happens, it's a very good sign the problem
is with water quality and/or water chemistry.>
Will the tetracycline help bc I think this is a sign of bacteria?
<"Sign of bacteria" covers a lot of ground! Most bacteria do nothing
much either way for fish help, while others are helpful, turning
poisonous chemicals like ammonia into something safe. Only a few cause
harm.
Identifying when such pathogenic (disease-causing) bacteria are at fault
isn't easy or obvious, though Finrot and Mouth Fungus (which despite
it's name is a bacterial infection) are usually easy to spot.>
I have a couple more questions...
I just did a 50% water change. The rocks are still noticeably dirty
(probably since having the filter out and after taking out the plants.
<Dirty rocks may simply be covered with algae, which looks like brown
scum, or blue-black fur, or blue, red or green slime. In itself, this
isn't a problem. However, certain types of algae do best under certain
types of conditions. Diatoms (brown scum) often do well where water
quality is variable. Blue-green algae (which can be other colours, but
has a distinct musty smell) often appears when tanks have too little
water movement and too many nutrients in the water (i.e., nitrate and
phosphate, and this in turn signifies overstocking or not enough water
changes).>
I am seeing debris floating around.
<May mean inadequate filtration, overfeeding, or not enough water
changes.>
I put the filter back in, but not the carbon pack.
<Good.>
I will try to go to Petsmart today to find an air powered sponge filter.
<This is ideal for Bettas. But do bear in mind, if you replace the
existing filter with another filter, the tank will begin cycling. This
is bad. Offer very little food, maybe one small meal every 2 or 3 days,
and do 25% water changes, without fail, every 1-2 days for at least the
first 3 weeks. If you can add the new filter without removing the old
one, that would help.
Leave them together for 2-3 weeks, and then remove the old filter. The
new filter will quickly get its own colony of bacteria that way. Or
else, an air-powered box filter could be used. I like these. Stuff some
old media from the present filter in there, and top up the box with some
plain filter wool and/or ceramic noodles. This will be instantly cycled
if done that way, and you should be good to go.>
In the meantime, without stressing him more, what would you suggest as
the best way to clean the rocks of
debris?
<Remove and clean ornaments and big rocks every few weeks if needed.
Leave gravel in place though, and merely stir with a stick (a pencil is
fine) and siphon out the silt.>
Thanks so much!
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Help: Betta dying 9/27/09
OOps... so sorry, I forgot to add my last question:
How do I know how to measure out the correct dosage for a 5 gallon tank
of the tetracycline? It comes in a package for a 10 gallon tank.
<Use half the package.>
I put about half yesterday, but I am worried about the inaccuracy.
<Good enough for government work. Wouldn't lose sleep.>
Thanks
Danielle
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Help: Betta dying 9/29/2009
I am in awe! My little fish is now swimming again.
<Cool!>
It is unbelievable! Thanks for all of your help!
<Happy to help.>
We are not out of the woods yet because he still has not eaten.
<Will, in time. Don't bother feeding for a day or two: For one thing,
keeps the water cleaner, but it also helps stimulate his appetite. Wild
fish certainly don't eat as much food as we give our pet fish, so we can
afford to "starve" them a little now and again.>
I tried pellets and peas tonight. He did not eat either.
<Depends on how hungry they are. Do offer very small, bite-size morsels,
perhaps using forceps. Daphnia and brine shrimp have the same laxative
effect and are more readily taken by some Bettas. Spirulina-based flake
is another good food for them, if they'll eat it.>
It has been about 6 days without him eating. I am worried, but today was
the first day I finally noticed improvement. Any suggestions for getting
him to eat?
<Try getting a bag of live brine shrimp or daphnia. Pour into a jar, and
keep on the window sill. Use a net to take out small portions and try
and see if your Betta will take them. Live foods often stimulate
appetite when
others do not.>
Also, how long can he go without food?
<Two or three weeks, easily. Cheers, Neale.>
New tank syndrome and fin rot in Betta... No reading,
mis-using WWM 9/11/09
Hi , I bought my Betta about 4 weeks ago. He is in a 2.5 gal tank. The
tank came with a filter but was too strong for my Betta. I changed to a
sponge filter and had the filter for about 2 weeks.
<Good move>
I started to notice a strong ammonia smell coming from the tank and
noticed that my betas tailfin
was starting to look shredded and transparent near the tips.
<You could smell ammonia?! Any present is toxic, damaging>
I was having my water tested weekly at Petsmart where I purchased my
fish.
The ammonia was borderline
<See above... read on WWM...>
but I knew that the tank was still cycling.
<Needs to be done w/o aquatic life present>
One week later, my betas fins were getting worse. I decided to take out
my sponge filter from advice from a petstore and replace it with a
whisper filter. they told me that would improve my water conditions,
along with doing partial water changes. Now I fear that I made a big
mistake by removing my sponge filter. I know that it was probably
cycling but I didn't want to lose my fish to poor water quality. I have
done small water changes over the past two days and added some aquarium
salt. Just yesterday I took out my carbon from my filter and started
treating my fish with Bettafix (more advice from the petstore.)
<This material's as useful as Pinesol... Not suggested... Had you
followed directions, searched WWM before writing...>>
My Betta still is acting fine but I fear that the fin rot with
eventually kill him. I have gotten so many mixed reviews that I don't
know which way to go.
<... Read what we have here... WWM is a growing reservoir of QUALIFIED
factual input>
I have also bought a heater to keep my temp. from fluctuating. I have
not installed it yet. The heater that I
bought keeps the tank at a constant 78 degrees. My tank is currently at
72 degrees.
<Too low>
Will this stress him more when his temp suddenly climbs to 78 degrees?
<No; less>
Should I continue treating him with the Bettafix or will doing a partial
water changes with aquarium salt cure the Finrot?
<Likely the latter>
I'm afraid that not using a carbon filter for a week while treating him
with Bettafix will make the water quality even worse.
<I agree>
I have read mixed reviews about this product. Also, will I have to cycle
the tank again after treating with
the Bettafix?
<Is possible>
I understand the cycling process, but I don't know how to avoid losing
fish to disease and ammonia poisoning until the tank cycles.
<A matter of having system/s cycled ahead of livestocking mostly>
Will daily partial water changes keep the fish healthy while the tank
cycles?
<Not likely>
If so how often and how much water do I replace.
<... this is all covered over and over...>
I condition the water and add aquarium salt to each water change. I also
just bought a five gallon tank
with a BioWheel and carbon filter.
<Ahh! Much better>
It has been set up for a week and I just added a Betta to that tank
today.
<... w/o it having cycled? No!>
I don't want to make the same mistake with him.
<You already have>
Can you tell me how to get through the cycling process with this fish
without running into the same problem.
<Read on WWM re...>
I am hoping that I can fix the Finrot with my other fish before it gets
too far advanced. Please help!!
<Help yourself... tens of thousands of folks use our site daily>
I am very attached to my little buddy and do not want to lose him. I
also do not want to put my other Betta that I bought today through the
same misery.
Thanks, Stacy
<Bob Fenner>
Blue Beta Male 9/7/09
Hi.
<Hello,>
I got a blue male beta yesterday. He is about 2 inches long. I put him
in his aquarium (2 litres) that has some small pebbles and a the rounded
bigger decorative pebbles.
<Sorry, is this a joke? Two litres? TWO LITRES? I have a teapot that
holds more than this! Seriously, 2-litres isn't viable, and whatever the
guy at the pet store said, you can't keep a Betta in this. How is it
heated? How is it filtered?>
I have added the water cleanser in and feed it twice a day with the
TOPFISH Betta pellettes.
<No such thing as "water cleanser", except ones that use air and/or
electricity, i.e., filters. Any "potion" added to the water is simply
taking advantage of your ignorance. It won't work. Yes, you add water
conditioner to each new batch of water to get rid of chlorine,
chloramine, ammonia and copper in the tap water supply. But such
products do not keep the water clean once in the fish tank.>
My Betta, bluebolt, is eating fine and pooping a lot.
<So far.>
But I cannot figure out why he usually goes to the corner (sometime the
top and other times the bottom) of the fish bowl and hangs out there. He
doesn't move much and had his fins (near the gills) stuck to his body.
<Stress.>
when he swims it moves fine though. His tail and fins don't seem as open
as I have read online it should be.
<Stress.>
I don't see his gills moving when he swims or rests except for when he
comes to the surface to breath. That time his gills open fully. Is that
normal?
<No.>
He usually only moves around when i tap his bowl or come and sit by it.
<Don't tap the bowl. It stresses the fish. Would be like coming up to
you and hitting you with a plank of wood, just to get a reaction. Sure,
works, but it isn't nice.>
I am really worried because he is my first fish and I want to keep him
healthy and give him a long life (3 yrs at least).
<You have much work to do. A Betta needs a 5 gallon (19 litre) or bigger
tank, a heater that keeps the temperature around 82 F (28 C), and an
air-powered filter such as a sponge or box filter filled with ceramic
noodles. Don't have those things? Don't want to buy them? Your Betta
will be dead in a month, tops.>
Is it possible that he is a slightly lazy Betta?
<Not the issue here.>
Thanks
Priyanka
<Happy to help, Neale.>
Blue Beta Male... reading 9/7/09
Hi.
<Priyanka>
I got a blue male beta
<Is this a test fish? A Betta...>
yesterday. He is about 2 inches long. I put him in his aquarium(2
litres)
<... too small... heater, filter?>
that has some small pebbles and a the rounded bigger decorative pebbles.
I have added the water cleanser in and feed it twice a day with the
TOPFISH Betta pellettes. My Betta, bluebolt, is eating fine and
pooping a lot. But I cannot figure out why he usually goes to the corner
(sometime the top and other times the bottom) of the fish bowl and hangs
out there.
<Improper env.>
He doesn't move much and had his fins(near the gills) stuck to his body.
when he swims it moves fine though. His tail and fins don't seem as open
as I have read online it should be. I don't see his gills moving when he
swims or rests except for when he comes to the surface to breath. That
time his gills open fully. Is that normal?
<...>
He usually only moves around when i tap his bowl or come and sit by it.
I am really worried because he
is my first fish and I want to keep him healthy and give him a long
life(3 yrs at least). Is it possible that he is a slightly lazy Betta?
Thanks
Priyanka
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Blue Beta Male 9/7/09
Hi
<Hello again, Priyanka,>
I am going to the pet shop today and getting a bigger aquarium, heater
and filter.
<Very good.>
Thanks for telling me. I was not sure about what all to get as I this is
my first Betta.
<We all start somewhere! Get a 5 gallon (19 litre) or bigger tank, a
heater (25-50 watt should be fine if your house is heated), and a small
filter, ideally something called a "sponge filter" with an air pump that
you can connect to it. A small electric internal filter could be used
instead, but get a small one, with a flow rate you can adjust: strong
electric pumps can suck up Bettas, damaging their fins!>
You really helped...
<Glad to hear it.>
Thank you :)
Priyanka
<You are most welcome. Enjoy you pet Betta, and I hope you have many
happy years together! Cheers, Neale.>
Siamese Fighting Fish - Fin Problem 08/02/09
Hi Guys
<Hello,>
Can you please help me with this - I'm not sure if it's a problem or
not??
<Well, let's see...>
Our Fighting Fish, 'Tosh' appears fine and happy, he's eating and
swimming around ok, but has developed a small patch on the top edge of
his tail fin, that appears cloudy/not quite furry but like sheeny and
almost like its sticking his fin together.?
<Could be Finrot, could be Fungus, though I'd veer towards the first.
Typically occurs when Bettas are kept in inadequate conditions: small,
unheated tanks for example. Do review aquarium size, filtration,
heating.>
I don't know if that makes any sense but the only other way I can
describe it is like when you get glue on your finger??!?
<When fish are irritated by something in the water -- such as ammonia or
opportunistic bacteria -- they increase mucous production. This can
appear like off-white patches on the skin though it's less commonly the
case on fins since they don't produce much mucous. On infected fins, the
trailing edges often become white because the membrane is dying, and
eventually you get the classic "frayed" appearance of Finrot, with the
membrane dying back but leaving the bones (the fin rays) for a while.>
It appears to be spreading but not affecting him in any other way.
<This is often the case with early stage Finrot; but once the blood
stream becomes infected, you're dealing with septicaemia, and that kills
fish very quickly. So, you do need to treat, e.g., with Maracyn,
Paraguard, eSHa 2000, etc. But at the same time you need to figure out
what caused the problem. With Bettas, a small tank -- something under 5
gallons -- is probably the commonest reason for bad water quality, and
of course the filter needs to be adequate to the task and properly
maintained. Bettas don't like strong water currents, but the filter
should still have a decent flow and a goodly quantity of biological
media. Carbon, zeolite, etc., are largely irrelevant. Media should be
cleaned in buckets of aquarium water around once a month.>
The reason I'm worried is that we had another Fighting Fish before, who
we noticed got the same thing, but he was hiding behind the heater at
the back of the tank, not eating and was generally poorly. Sadly he
died.
<I see.>
Our tank is a community tank, with live and plastic plants, undergravel
filtration, plenty of hiding places, with Tetra, Guppy's, some Panda
Cory's, George our Plec and Tosh, it's clean, at 75 degrees F and I've
checked all the ammonia, pH, nitrite and nitrate levels - all are ok!!
<Curious, but what are the tetras? Bettas mix badly with tetras, and the
other common reason for Finrot is physical damage. The obviously nippy
tetras are Black Widows (also called Black Skirt and Petticoat Tetras,
Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) and the various tetras sold as Serpae Tetras.
But other tetras that have been reported as nipping Bettas include
Neons, Colombian Tetras, Red-eye Tetras, and Bleeding Heart Tetras.>
Do you have any suggestions or are we doing anything wrong?? We are
still fairly new to the fish keeping thing!
Looking forward to hearing from you
Caz & Chris x
<Cheers, Neale.>
Possibly Sick Betta and Algae
Issues... just poor env. 11/4/07
Hello!
<Hi there>
What follows is an unusual story. I have tried searching the web and have not
been able to find another case such as mine...
<That is unusual!>
For the past 10 months I have had a male Crowntail Betta. About three months
ago, I noticed that there was a little bit of algae growing on the top of my
tank. At this point, I should mention that I have a one gallon tank with an
airstone, and a 5W bulb as a heater.
<Uhh, no good... what happens when the light is off?>
Seeing the algae, I started leaving the tank light on for less time every day,
and for a little while the algae cleared up. But, at the beginning of September,
the algae came back full force. It coats the gravel, the sides of the tank, and
the airstone tube.
I started performing 25% water changes every three days and draining and
cleaning the whole tank about once every ten days, as the algae accumulates so
quickly and obscures the sides of the tank so I can't see my fish. The light
stays on only for about 2 hours each day now, and it still does not curb the
algae growth.
<Mmm, other ways to counter algae... depriving it of nutrients (from the get-go
and from filtration) adding competing photosynthetic life (plant
material...)...>
This is making the temperature of the water cooler (about 70 F)
<Too low...>
which I know is not the best condition for Bettas. Also, when I do water changes
for about the last three weeks, my Betta has started freaking out - swimming
rapidly around the tank at odd angles, then lying listlessly at the bottom for
about two days afterward. He does this whenever I add or remove any water - it
can be as little as 1/4 cup of water that makes him do this.
<Yes>
I should also say that I use tap water, first boiled to remove chlorine and
contaminants then treated with Betta plus bowl conditioner, and left to sit for
about 5 days to condition. This is a never-ending process, and I am scared to do
any more complete water changes and cleaning, as this all seems to be affecting
him in a negative way, so right now the algae is very thickly coating the tank.
I am sick of the algae, and want my Betta to be happy - is this the time to
resort to using a chemical algae fixer? If so, could you possibly recommend some
brands that would be available in Canada?
<Not recommended... toxic and not really a fix>
Some days my Betta seems really happy, and is active, and then on others he is
listless and pale. He always seems to eat well, even if before and after he just
lays on the bottom of the tank.
So, I know this email is long, and I hope you can help me out. If you need any
more information, just let me know.
Thanks,
Liah
<Thank you for writing... so well and thoroughly. What your Betta really needs
is a heated, filtered environment. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
You killed your Bettas. 4/3/07
i
<I - next time, please use proper capitalization, not "net speak"> had a male
and female Betta. We put them in a big bowl together...
<A single Betta doesn't belong in a non-filtered, non-heated bowl, let alone
two. A single Betta should be kept in a minimum 3 gal. filtered tank, with a
submersible heater to keep the temperature steady at around 80-82 degrees
F. Your setup is simply a recipe for disaster. And, of course, keep in mind
temperaments: males can be very aggressive towards females and can literally
stalk her to death. Professional Betta breeders recommend keeping the sexes
separate, and introducing the female when it's time to breed, then immediately
removing her. You, my friend, need to read up on proper Betta care; check here
for starters:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm >
...when we change the water.
<Now I'm confused. Do they live together or separately? In any case, bowls are a
no-no. Best idea is to setup 2 minimum 3-gal. filtered, heated tanks, one for
each fish...>
They don't attack each other at all...we did that for like 3 weeks.
<Ideally, you should be changing no more than about 50% of the water in your 3
gal. Betta tank per week; changing 100% of the water at a time can shock and
kill your fish. I imagine you're doing complete water changes because the water
is quite filthy...yet another reason not to house any live fish in non-filtered
bowls. Also, keep in mind that it's best to feed your fish sparingly - only 2-3
Betta pellets once per day, alternative with bloodworms or mysis shrimp on
occasion...>
Well, the other night after we put them each in their own bowls they both
spazzed out and were rushing up to the top then slamming themselves down into
the rocks.
<Sounds like environmental shock - did you test the water for ammonia, nitrites,
nitrates, pH? What was the temperature of that water? It sounds as though the
100% water changes caught up with your fish and caused their demise...>
About 20 min.s later they both died. I was just curious as to why they would do
that or what would cause that...
<Pollutants in the water, too drastic a change in pH, temperature, etc. Read
here on how to properly treat tapwater for aquarium use:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/taptrtmnt.htm , and how to "cycle"
a tank:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm >
Tiffany
<Forgive my somewhat terse reply, but I must say I get a bit irritated with
telling folks that they need to do their homework, research BEFORE attempting to
care for any live animals. In a nutshell, you killed your pets. Have you read up
on proper Betta aquarium conditions? Now that you are "fishless" is the time to
do so - here's some of my favorite Betta sites:
http://www.bcbetta.com/Acclimatizing.html
http://www.siamsbestbettas.com/
http://www.healthybetta.com/
Please take the time to do the necessary reading and if you choose to try again,
please be sure that you have an appropriate-sized cycled tank prior to
purchasing a new Betta. Regards, Jorie>
Betta, Curling Fins, Disease? No - 07/04/2006
Greetings WWM Crew!
<Hello, again!>
The more time I spend on your site, the more I'm impressed.
<And probably less impressed with this response time.... please accept
my apology.... I fear that your email came to us in a format that few
(read: me) in the Crew can respond to, and I've been a bit tardy these last
few days....>
Thank you for this incredible service to the fish fanatic community! :-)
<Thank you very, very much for these kind words.... this means a great
deal to me, and all on the Crew. Thank you.>
My 5-year-old daughter chose a male Betta for her birthday last October.
His name is Marigold. He is housed in a Betta bowl (which I now understand
is not best and will consider moving him)
<Please do, thank you. If you'd like a recommendation, I like using
Marineland's Eclipse 3 systems for Bettas. If the filter is too strong for
them (never had that problem with mine), you can put a filter sponge over
the intake.>
for which she does partial water changes every 7-10 days (although it
never appears that it needs it).
<Be testing - small bowls like this never truly cycle; should be changed
in its entirety every couple of days unless the space is a gallon or
more. If it is in fact less than a gallon, should be upgraded quite soon.>
She uses dechlorinated water (tap water set to air out 24 hours in
advance) and adds a pinch of aquarium salt.
<If your local water treatment includes chloramine, this is inadequate -
you will need something to neutralize chloramine. Most places in the US now
add this to our tapwater, sadly.>
She faithfully feeds him pellets every day. (Another change we'll make
now that I know they prefer a varied diet.)
<And rather than feeding on a daily basis, consider feeding every other
day or so - it's easier to kill a Betta by overfeeding him than underfeeding
him.>
I've noticed that recently his fins are curling on the ends. I searched
your site reading all of the Betta articles and couldn't find any occurrence
of this.
<Is very common, and not a problem. Many Bettas get interesting fin
formations, either curling or extensions to the rays of the fins, or other
neat things.>
It doesn't sound like one of the common Betta diseases you explain in
detail on the site. Is it something about which to be concerned?
<Nope. Sounds good to me.>
Thank you for your time.
<Glad to be of service.>
Sophie's Mom
<I do hope Sophie and Marigold have a wonderful time together! Ask
Sophie to say hi to him for me. -Sabrina>
My Male Betta (Jovi) 7/3/06
Hi, I have had my Betta for about 4 or 5 months. I have had no trouble with
him until now. He's always been a lively fish, very aggressive and
definitely seems to have his own little personality.
<Oh yes>
Well over this past week he's been swimming with his body leaning more to
the right side. More recently he hasn't been swimming around as much - and
seems to have more trouble doing it (puts more effort into it).
<Good observations>
He usually swims around watching me and is excited about his food. Now he
barely eats. Now today, I noticed that his right eye is extremely swollen
and seems to have a red outline underneath. I'm very worried about him. I
hope you have some insight for me. Thanks, Meghan
<Mmm, hard to discern actual cause/s here... But I would be focusing on your
Betta's environment, measuring water quality, perhaps adding to its diet...
Please do peruse WWM on Betta Systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and Health:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm
and the linked FAQs files above these articles in the hope of this activity
stirring your awareness. Bob Fenner>
New Betta With Ammonia Problems 1/18/06
Dear Sirs: I did search for this, and found something quite close, but it
didn't address my exact concern, so please bear with me. My Concerns: the tail
"threads"
the water getting cloudy so quickly. Here are the facts: New Male Betta, just
purchased 50 hours ago.
First 24 hours were spent in smaller bowl, with tap water & drops of tap water
conditioner. Now in a round 1 gallon plastic tank, tap water conditioner drops,
fake plant (I would describe the feel of the fake plant as perhaps feeling soft
pine needles), plastic beads, little divers helmet. All came with tank)
Just put him in this last night. Mid-day today. water seems to be slightly
cloudy. (not heavily, but perhaps as if I'd put a teaspoon of skim milk
into the bowl) I am in Australia, very hot, so air-conditioner has been on quite
a bit during day, off at night.
I have taken a cooked small prawn, held it a bit above or just on the water a
couple times today and he'd do a little jump and take a very small bite
out of it. I did notice when my husband was getting the new bowl ready, he had
both his (cleaned) hands in the water trying to adjust the beads and such.
Water did set for about 2-3 hours after being treated before putting fish in. He
is acting just fine, but for a lack of a better way to say it. looks like
he's starting to lose "threads" of his tail. Just today. Not getting quite as
excited about seeing himself in the mirror as he used
to. I tried to keep this as concise for you as possible. Thank you in advance.
Juli
< As your new little Betta excretes waste it and uneaten food quickly turns to
ammonia which is toxic to fish. This is the cloudy water you are
experiencing. It "burns" the fish's gills and fins. This may explain the
threads you are seeing. Do a 50% water change to dilute the ammonia. Feed only
once a day and only enough food so that all of it is gone in two minutes once
each day. Remove any uneaten food after two minutes. This will reduce the
ammonia but not eliminate it. You can continue to dilute it with daily water
changes. You can add Bio-Spira from Marineland that will put the bacteria in the
tank and begin to start to break the ammonia down. The will transform the
ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates. The nitrates are less toxic but still
need to be removed with water changes. There are many chemical resins that will
remove ammonia. You might want to look into these and make a little "tea bag"
filled with these resins top control the ammonia until you can get around to
doing a water change. An ammonia test kit will let you know when the resin needs
to be replaced and when a water change is needed. Over time you may get the
bacteria to developed naturally. Go to Marineland.com and check out Dr Tim's
Library. Go to the article titled "The First Thirty Days" for a better
understanding about what is happening in your bowl.-Chuck>
Not the full Monty... Betta env. dis. - 02/25/06
Hello,
<Howdy>
I am desperate for some help. I bought my Betta (Monty) from an aquarium about a
year ago. He has always been very happy and healthy. I love him to death, I
always say he seems to wag his tail when he sees me, it is so precious. I am
terrified that he is not going to make it. About 3 weeks ago, I first noticed
that he was changing colors. He was (for a year) a deep burgundy and bright
turquoise w/ a couple of clear spots on his fins. Well, I read the color change
was normal, and the clear spots on his fins were from past damage. The color
change started at the base of his dorsal fin, then moved throughout his body,
covering almost everything but his head, and has covered half of his belly fin.
He is all white now w/ the exception of his head and about 80% of his fins. Very
shortly after that, I noticed his fins were vanishing. I couldn't see any
fraying or holes, the just seemed to disappear. Right before that started, I had
moved him to a gallon tank. I added a mini filter and it made him unable to
swim. It was a very light filter, made for 1 gallon tanks, but the pressure was
too much, so I took it out right away. I use a Betta water conditioner and
change his water weekly. After the fin problem started, the happy "wagging"
stopped. He hung out in the corner at the top of the tank and didn't do much. I
checked with a Betta expert, who told me he was a marble and the color change
was normal. I also started using AquariSol and aquarium salt. By, that time, his
fins had gotten worse. They began splitting and clumping, to the point where
they looked almost non-existent. I also noticed the black edge around the fin
that they say happens when a Betta has fin rot. I figured he definitely had it
and started treating him with fungus eliminator and tetracycline every 3 days w/
a full tank change. He is on his third dose and his personality is back to
normal, the fins aren't clumped as much, but they are not growing back. They are
still splitting and I noticed today that a long piece of his fin fell out, that
he ate before I could get it out of there. His temperature stays between 78 and
82 degrees. He eats pellets, and once a week I give him freeze dried bloodworms.
He eats all of his food, so I know there is no waste collecting in his tank. I
seem to be doing everything right, I am just not sure. There are no other
symptoms, and no other behavioral changes. So, I guess I need to know, if I am
doing everything right and if his personality getting back to normal but not his
fins, means he is getting better. Is he normal?
<Maybe>
Is there another problem?
<Perhaps>
Does he have to have filtration?
<Yes>
Are the meds right?
<... possibly, but I would not have done this>
Is all I have been told true? Will his split fins ever grow back together?
<Could, yes>
I have read everything and searched everywhere, but nothing covers EVERYTHING
that is happening to him and changing with him. He seems to be good one day and
bad the next. his fins look more clumped as I sit here typing this. Because his
personality seems to be good again, would I be foolish in thinking he is getting
better?
<? Not likely>
I ordered a ph test kit, which I will use when it gets here, but even with the
use of water conditioner, could it be the water?
<... is resultant from environmental insult... an intractable infection? No>
Our city does not have the best water. I also read it is not good to use bottled
water. If our water is bad, can I slowly acclimate him to bottled water?
<I would not>
I don't know, I am so confused. I am leaving on vacation for 9 days and really
don't want to leave him. It will break my heart if anything happens to him while
I am away. Can someone please help us? I really don't want to lose my baby yet.
He still seems to have a lot of life left in him. I am lost, ANYTHING you could
tell me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Pam Kisling
<Bob Fenner>
Monty II - 02/25/06
Hello,
I sent an e-mail earlier asking for advice on my sick Betta Monty. I need to add
something that I just noticed. On the top of his body, right after where his
head meets his body, at the beginning of the rise of his dorsal fin, there is a
tiny patch that looks meaty. It looks like he has lost some of his scales. I
wanted to include this with my previous e-mail, as it may be pertinent. Thank
you again.
Pam Kisling
<Is just more evidence of env. originated problem/s... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Change Water Problem and the Effect of
Aerosols on Fish (6/5/05)
Happy weekend everyone! <Thanks, same to you. Steve Allen answering today.)
I just have a simple yet strange question that I cannot find an answer
to. I make my change water a week ahead of time in a 20 gallon plastic
garbage can which I purchased just for that use brand new. I add the
salt then water then water conditioner. Then I put in a heater and a
large bubble stone and let it sit with a loose fitting cover. The last
two times I decided to check the change water for no particular reason
and there was a significant amount of ammonia in the water. <yikes!> I
rinse the can out with hot water before and after every use. <I'd use
room temp water rather than hot> I'd be a little concerned that the hot
might cause the release of some chemicals form the plastic. I've noticed
plastic odors when I use hot water in plastic containers.> Any
suggestions as to why this is happening, because it really is
frustrating to dump the water out and start over again... and costly
too. Maybe a week is too long to let the water sit? Thank you, Heather.
<Two possibilities come to mind. The first is that there is ammonia in
your tap water. Test it. The second is ammonia in the salt. This
happened to me once. Another possibility is that there's something wrong
with your test kit. You may want to verify the results with your LFS. If
there is no ammonia in you tap water (you should aerate for 24 hours
before adding the salt), and there is after you add the salt, then the
salt is the culprit.>
P.S. A reader (Christene) asked a question regarding the deaths of
multiple Bettas in her mothers bathroom. I had the same problem and
found that when I quit spraying my hair and stopped using spray
deodorant the fish lived. The spray particles where contaminating the
water. Just a suggestion worth trying. ...And also for the lady in Loves
Park Illinois with the ich problem.... I live in Brookfield Illinois if
you want me to try to help. I've gotten through ich successfully before.
<Thanks. Excellent observation on the aerosols. Using any aerosol
chemical product in the same room (especially a small one like a
bathroom) can be dangerous to fish in the room. If you'd like to be
helpful to others in this hobby, you should consider joining our chat
forum--lots of folks seeking input there.>
Betta with Pinched Tail
I've had my male Betta Mortimer for about 4 months. In the last 2 weeks I've
noticed that his tail looks as though someone pinched it together. Even when he
swims around, the tail seems to be stuck together into a point. Any ideas on how
I can restore Morty's tail to it's original flowing glory?
<Clamped fins/tail are definitely a sign that something is wrong. Have you
tested his water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? I'd suggest increasing the
number of water changes. Also, not to jump ahead, but it seems as though you
don't have a heater (nor could you, in a 1.5 gal. bowl.) I might suggest
upgrading his digs to a 3 gal. tank (minimum), with a 25watt heater. That way,
you could keep his water temp. constant at around 80 degrees - the optimum Betta
water temp.>
Morty is less active (he used to be very peppy and busy all the time) and eats
sporadically.
<Bettas do sometimes get bored...perhaps re-arrange his tank, if at all
possible??
He's in a 1.5 gal container with one small plastic plant and some gravel. I do
partial water changes once each week and total water changes once every 3 weeks
with distilled bottled water and a few drops of Aqua Safe thrown in for good
measure (I pour the
gravel into a small plastic tub and rinse it with distilled water
several times since I don't have a filter system). I transfer Morty to a
separate bowl of distilled water while I do this (I scoop him out gently with a
cup so that he stays in water the whole time). I often feed him 3 Betta Gold
pellets twice each day, but decrease the number as needed if I notice he's not
eating a lot.
<Everything sounds great with the exception of using bottled water. There are
essential elements missing from bottled water that fish need...I'd suggest
gradually replacing the bottled water with tap water (using a dechlorinator
first, of course)...maybe he's suffering from a lack some mineral trace
element?>
After pouring over the FAQs, I'll try getting a heater and giving him bloodworm
treats.
<You could actually just replace on of his daily "dry food" meals with frozen,
thawed bloodworms...Bettas love these, and they are very good
nutritionally. Hikari makes a great frozen bloodworm product. Also, if it's
possible, see about getting him a little bit larger tank with a filtration
system and heater...the Eclipse 3 is a perfect choice, in my opinion. Good
luck, Jorie>
Sara Molyneux
Re: Betta with Pinched Tail
Hi,
I just wanted to thank the WetWebMedia crew for their help. It turns out that
the root of Morty's ailment was indeed water temperature that was too cold! I
was able to get Morty into a warmer environment over the weekend and have seen
100% improvement. His tail is back to normal, he's eating well, and back to his
zippy self again. Also he really seems to like the Hikari bloodworm treats as
recommended. What a relief!
Best regards
Sara L. Molyneux
<Hi Sara, I'm so glad to hear Morty's doing well again! Just be sure to keep the
temperature as constant as possible, as drastic fluctuations are even worse for
the Betta than cooler, steady temperatures. Best of luck, and glad to hear the
good news! Jorie>
Sick Betta (chilled)
Hi Crew,
<Julia>
I found your site today and I'm really impressed! Hope you'll help me
with my problem.
<Will try>
I currently have two Bettas living in 2 separate tanks. Couple of months
ago one of my Bettas got some symptoms that reminded fish tuberculosis.
So that sick Betta died in the beginning of December. I bleached the
tank and got another Betta late December. Recently my new Betta started
getting the same symptoms as the one that died. He almost doesn't swim,
sits always in the corner of the tank, at the bottom or at the top with
his fins clamped. He stopped eating. He doesn't pay any attention to the
food. At times he'd go to the bottom and swim there for a bit, looking
for food there or a place to hide. His belly looks a bit big as if he's
constipated. One more thing, there is a thin membrane on top of his
water, it usually appears on the third day after I change his water.
<Likely a film, scum from food... perhaps from aerosol... like cooking
oil, in the house... Bettas are aerial respirators (notice them coming
to the surface periodically?), but I would keep this film "wicked"
away... with a clean paper towel...>
There are no other symptoms that I noticed, but they awfully remind me
of my other Betta that died. I asked for some advice in the pet store
and the girl told me that he is just mad because his water is too clean
so he tries to make it dirty. Do you think she is right?
<Mmm, no>
If she is why then my other fish doesn't do that. What do you think it
might be? Is it fish tuberculosis?
<Doubtful this is Mycobacterial... but very likely environmental... you
don't mention, oh I see this below... you have no heater... and this is
a tropical fish. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm
and the Related FAQs (see above)>
And what would you advise to use in order to help him, I don't want to
lose him. He lives in 2 litres Betta bowl, there is no heating and I
change his water once a week or once in two weeks. The other fish feels
fine. Thanks in advance, Julia
<Translate your caring into action and all will be fine. Bob Fenner>
Re: sick Betta
Hi Bob,
<Julia>
Thank you for your advice. I raised the temperature and now he started opening
his fins and swimming from time to time, but still spends most of his time just
sitting in the corner.
<"These things take time">
One more question: I mentioned that he stopped eating, but today when I tried to
give him a flake he paid attention to it, came close to it, and tried to eat it,
but it looked like his mouth was too small for it.
<Bettas by and large don't eat flake foods... and if do, these will not sustain
them.>
(I chose a really tiny one, because I noticed that is a problem when he eats,
looks like he just can't open his mouth wide enough). Finally he swallowed it
but was chewing it for so long and then he started opening his mouth, it looked
like he was yawning. What can it be and what should I do in order to help him
get the food to his mouth? I even got smaller bites for him, but still too
big apparently.
Thank you, Julia
<Read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>
Betta in Recovery
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005
Hello,
<Hi there>
I dip fish at a retail store.
<I'll bet you do much more than this>
Last week I sold a Betta that was, by all appearances, healthy. Three days ago
the customer brought the Betta back to me screaming that I sold her a sick fish.
The Betta was still alive but looking very very ill. Later I found out the
customer told my co-worker she had been using distilled water in his tank.
<Arggghh, too clean... bereft of needed mineral content>
I brought the poor sick boy home to take proper care of him. He is eating,
though not much. For the most part he is just lying on the gravel, periodically
coming up for air. Right now I'm trying to keep him comfortable. He's warm and
not near other fish. His fins seem to be growing back. I put a bit of Melafix in
his tank along with a touch of aquarium salt. My question is...Is there anything
else I can do to help him recover?
Thank You, KAYE
<Not much Kaye... Keep the fish fed, warm as you're doing and there is very good
chance of full recovery. Bob Fenner>
Dory the striped Betta... (1/23/03)
Hi there,
<Hi! Ananda here today>
I've owned my Betta fish for about 3 months now. I just recently changed her
from a small bowl into a bigger aquarium so I could keep the temperature
consistent and make her happier.
<Good idea.>
I also just bought test strips to test her nitrite, nitrate, ph, and all that
stuff. The only thing I've noticed is the PH is higher than some people
recommend, but also people say that it's OK as long as its consistent...so I
don't know what to think!
<We had Betta in water with a pH of 7.6 for 3 years... as long as you don't
change the pH by more than 0.2 in one day, and keep it as steady as possible,
your Betta can get used to higher pHs. Just keep the pH below 7.8 -- much higher
than that, and they do start to suffer.>
Anyway, my main problem is that my fish has a white stripe from head to tail on
both sides of her body, and I don't know what it's from. I thought maybe she was
just adjusting, but it's been about 3 days now in her new tank, and the stripe
hasn't gone away.
<Sounds like a stress stripe. You might need to do a water change -- check your
tank pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc and see what they are. Did you cycle
the larger tank first? If not, you may want to move her back into her bowl and
continue water changes etc. in there while the new tank cycles.>
Is she constipated? I've noticed some poop in her tank, so I think she's OK, but
I'm not sure.
<Doesn't sound like constipation.>
What should I do? I don't want her to be hurting....Thanks
<Keep her water quality good and the pH constant and under 7.8. If the pH of
your tap water is higher than that, you'll need to do something to decrease it
(slowly!). Please do post on the WWM discussion boards at
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk
, too -- we have several Betta fans on the boards. --Ananda>
Dory the Betta addendum
Hi there,
I asked a question about 2 days ago about my Betta, Dory, and haven't received
any response yet? I see on the website that you've updated till the 23rd, and
I've been checking daily~ did I miss it, or did you guys not receive the email?
Worried Betta owner!!!!
<Sorry about that. The person who initially had your question has had computer
problems. --Ananda>
Dory the Betta II: getting the pH down (1/24/04)
Hi there Ananda,
<Hi!>
It's Dory's owner again! Firstly, what does cycle the tank mean?!
<When you start a tank, fish wastes are and become ammonia...bacteria grow and
turn the ammonia into nitrites...more bacteria grow and turn the nitrites into
nitrates...which you remove via water changes. All new tanks go through the
cycle of ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are very harmful to
fish, and nitrates can be harmful in high concentrations.>
I'm guessing I didn't do that since I don't know what it means!
<Well, it's not something you do, but rather something the tank does -- though
you can start the tank cycling without using fish. Do a search on the WWM main
site and chat forums about "fishless cycling" for more info.>
Secondly, I think my PH is higher than 7.8, I'll double check again, but how do
I begin
to decrease that PH? Does water filtration help? I do own a Brita filter and I
could add filtered water to her bowl slowly if that'd help~
<The Brita filter won't help much, and is unlikely to change the pH.>
I don't know. Please let me know how to bring the PH down.
<You could use peat in a filter bag, or an "acid buffer" or "discus buffer" --
which depends on the size of your tank and what kind of filtration setup you
have.>
Thanks for the responses, I appreciate it.
<You're quite welcome. --Ananda>
Betta swollen on one side
Good Morning
I was pleased to find your web site as I have a problem with my Betta I purchased Thai last summer. "Thai" lives alone in a 2 gal tank (actually it
only takes about 1 1/2 gal of water). He has two artificial plants. I turn the
light on about 1 1/2 hours in the am and the PM. I feed him some BettaMin
Tropical flakes and Hikari multi vitamin enriched blood worms in the am and
blood worms only at night. I change the water about every month - using bottled
spring water.
Recently he seems to be spending more time at the bottom of the tank and has
developed a lump on his right side. It extends from the back of his fin to the
"end of his torso (?) before the long part of the tail. It is quite large,
considering his small size. It looks sort of white behind his scales but I
think that is just the separation of his skin due to the swelling. The other
side seems normal, but might be just a wee bit large. Hard for me to be
sure.. I changed the water when I noticed his spending less time swimming but
that that did not change his behavior - I have no idea what this is or what to
do. He is still eating and continues to be very happy when I talk to him - but
clearly something is wrong.
I have read some of the other questions and answers but all are slightly
different. Never the less, it sounds less likely to be constipation - than a
tumor. But I am willing to try anything. Does he maybe need a heated or
filtered tank? His tank is in the kitchen. I keep the heat around 69=70 during
the day, but turn it down at night. I really don't see how that would cause
this sort of problem, but going forward want to do whatever I can for him. We
would appreciate any assistance you can send our way.
Thank you very much.
Dear Joan, Allow me to confuse you even further :) The reason you read different
responses is because it could be anything. Plus, there is more than one way to
skin a cat. So, first, let's address the water changes....once a month is NOT
nearly often enough. Try once a week, even twice is not too much! Your Betta is
swimming in his own liquid waste. Not good! Once a month is asking for problems.
And tap water is fine, as long as you dechlorinate it. Also, make sure, when
doing water changes, that your water change water is the SAME temp as the tank!
I can honestly tell you that 90% of fish disease could be avoided simply by
doing proper water changes. Now, temperature. I know that Bettas can live at
Room Temp. However, they will fare MUCH better in winter if you use a heater. It
would cost you very little to set up a 2.5 or a 5 gallon tank with a small
heater in it. Set the temperature for 78F. You can add a small filter, if you
like, but it's not necessary. A filter means you can go longer periods between
water changes. If you really want to know how often to change the water, buy
yourself some ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits, and use them regularly :D
On the down side, I am not sure if your Betta is going to survive. Clean up his
water, and maybe he will pull through. You may add a bit of Melafix, if you can
find it at your Local Fish Store. And add some Epsom salts, to help with any
"constipation". One last thing...keep in mind Bettas are pretty short-lived,
usually only lasting two to three years. -Gwen
Swollen Betta
Dear Gwen,
Oh Thank You so much for responding!
>>You are welcome :)<<
I got my Betta at Wal-Mart (felt so
sorry for them in these horrible little containers) 'Anyway, then I
"consulted" with a Pet Store - they are the ones that said clean the water
once a month - even once told me not to feed him more than once a day OR
LESS - so the tank didn't get so dirty. I thought that was pretty absurd.
>>Actually, I agree with this info. Most people tend to way overfeed their fish,
resulting in deterioration of water quality and dietary problems like fatty
liver disease. Feed your Betta once a day, or every other day.<<
I will begin by changing the water today and then 1-2 times a week. I did
know about the water being room temperature and I have been very careful
about that. Also, I will look into getting a heated tank -
>>Excellent.<<
because even if Thai does not make it, I will "rescue" another Betta. I sure
wish I had
found your site when I bought him. I actually did surf the web for some
basic info - but what I really needed to know - came from you.
So thank you once again for all your information - I do have two questions
1 - How do you dechlorinate water (I actually have a big water filtration
system which I am told removes most of the chlorine - but I don't know how
to check it.
>>You can buy dechlorinator at your local fish store. It is not expensive.<<
And finally, one you may not be able to answer - but could the fact that
the water was not cleaned often enough produce a tumor?
>>Correct. Water that is not changed often enough becomes more and more toxic
over time. This can have detrimental effects on fish health, everything from fin
rot to internal infections, to outright death. Regular partial water changes,
done at the right temperature, can minimize health problems, and give your fish
a much better chance at living a nice long life. -Gwen<<
> Good Morning
> I was pleased to find your web site as I have a problem with my Betta I purchased Thai last summer. "Thai" lives alone in a 2 gal tank
(actually it only takes about 1 1/2 gal of water). He has two artificial
plants. I turn the light on about 1 1/2 hours in the am and the PM. I
feed him some BettaMin Tropical flakes and Hikari multi vitamin enriched
blood worms in the am and blood worms only at night. I change the water
about every month - using bottled spring water.
> Recently he seems to be spending more time at the bottom of the tank and
has developed a lump on his right side. It extends from the back of his
fin to the "end of his torso (?) before the long part of the tail. It is
quite large, considering his small size. It looks sort of white behind his
scales but I think that is just the separation of his skin due to the
swelling. The other side seems normal, but might be just a wee bit large.
Hard for me to be sure.. I changed the water when I noticed his spending
less time swimming but that that did not change his behavior - I have no
idea what this is or what to do. He is still eating and continues to be
very happy when I talk to him - but clearly something is wrong.
> I have read some of the other questions and answers but all are slightly
different. Never the less, it sounds less likely to be constipation - than
a tumor. But I am willing to try anything. Does he maybe need a heated
or filtered tank? His tank is in the kitchen. I keep the heat around
69=70 during the day, but turn it down at night. I really don't see how
that would cause this sort of problem, but going forward want to do
whatever I can for him. We would appreciate any assistance you can send
our way.
> Thank you very much.
>> Dear Joan, Allow me to confuse you even further :) The reason you read
different responses is because it could be anything. Plus, there is more
than one way to skin a cat. So, first, let's address the water
changes....once a month is NOT nearly often enough. Try once a week, even
twice is not too much! Your Betta is swimming in his own liquid waste. Not
good! Once a month is asking for problems. And tap water is fine, as long
as you dechlorinate it. Also, make sure, when doing water changes, that your
water change water is the SAME temp as the tank! I can honestly tell you
that 90% of fish disease could be avoided simply by doing proper water
changes. Now, temperature. I know that Bettas can live at Room Temp.
However, they will fare MUCH better in winter if you use a heater. It would
cost you very little to set up a 2.5 or a 5 gallon tank with a small heater
in it. Set the temperature for 78F. You can add a small filter, if you
like, but it's not necessary. A filter means you can go longer periods
between water changes. If you really want to know how often to change the
water, buy yourself some ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits, and use
them regularly :D On the down side, I am not sure if your Betta is going to
survive. Clean up his water, and maybe he will pull through. You may add a
bit of Melafix, if you can find it at your Local Fish Store. And add some
Epsom salts, to help with any "constipation". One last thing...keep in mind
Bettas are pretty short-lived, usually only lasting two to three years.
-Gwen<<
Betta Problems? - 02/10/2004
Hi, my name is Megan.
<Hi, Megan - Sabrina here, tonight!>
Last night I bought a Betta fish from a pet store. I have had another Betta
fish for about 1 year and 4 months now and have had no problems with it.
<These are excellent fish.>
However, this new one seems to be sick. I bought it a 1/2 gallon tank. I used
Betta Plus Bowl Conditioner in the water and have feed him Wardley Bette Food
(pellets). When I bought him he was a deep blue and black color. Today, he is
turning pink and on his stomach underneath his front fins/gills it is silver.
<Sounds like he's stressed - do please check your water parameters (ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, pH); this new tank is probably cycling now, and ammonia and
nitrite may be rising dangerously. It would be a good idea to do a water change
of 50% or greater; be sure to match the temperature of the new water to the
water that he's in now.>
There is a black type thing coming out of his gills and underneath his mouth (I
don't know what this is called, it looks like a sharks mouth) when he breaths.
<This is part of his gill structure.... nothing to worry about.>
I have tried to get a picture of this, but it is difficult. I am sending the
picture that best shows him.
<I'm afraid the picture did not make it through....>
Also, it seems as if it is difficult for him to eat the pellets. He puts them
in his mouth and just spits them back out. Should I switch his food?
<Heh, it sounds like he's being a picky eater.... give him a few days with this
food, if he persists in not eating it, you might try freeze-dried bloodworms, or
even frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp, just to get something in his tummy. If
he is hungry enough, he should eat the pellets.>
One more thing, when I fed him tonight, he ate one pellet and then a few minutes
later he seemed to throw some of the food back up. Please help me. Thank you
very much!!
<So far, the only step I can recommend is to test his water, and do a water
change or two to keep ammonia and nitrite down.... please do continue keeping
touch on the forums, as well, and we'll be sure to help you figure out your new
Betta pal. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Betta sitting
Hi,
I have been Betta sitting for a friend of mine. I have had fish and been a
hobbyist for close to 30 years (not claiming to know everything here, that's why
I love your site so much!). I am, however, more of a saltwater fanatic, but
will be setting up a tropical tank, since sitting the Bettas. Gotta say, I have
fallen in love with them.
<All to easy to do so! A neat, simple fish, fun and easy to care for.>
I am very worried about one of them though. It is sulking, has not eaten in the
3 days since being here, while the other one is doing fantastic! Now when they
were dropped off they were in tiny little plastic containers and the water was
so disgusting I could not even see the poor little guys.
<Ugh!!>
After hollering at my friend about this,
<Holler for me, too!>
I changed their water and have moved them into their own larger Betta display
tanks. I used Novaqua for the water change and for the move to the new tank set
up and I did acclimate them to their new homes, slowly.
<Good job.>
Have I done something wrong with the one? Why is he sulking?
<Likely not anything you did/didn't do. Bettas are virtually indestructible;
he'd probably been sitting in a cup of fish waste for just too long to live
through.>
I have them nowhere near each other so they won't stress out seeing each other
(I think that is cruel) Why is the one doing better than the other?
<The other may simply be weaker, older, or for whatever reason, more sensitive
to his previous horrible water conditions.>
I cleaned the tanks both the same, the rocks both the same, I did everything
the same. Any info would be of great help.
<My best info for you (well, your friend) would involve a baseball bat, so I'll
just keep that to myself. But as for all you've done, excellent job - and in
light of your second email, you've done all you could do, I think. -Sabrina>
Thanks so much! Magic
Betta sitting - part two.
Hi,
<Hello, again.>
Sad news. The Betta I was worried about died. I just don't get it. I know I did
everything right. Correct acclimation, correct water temp, dechlorinator, whole
nine yards, plants extra, all cleaned properly. Did both the lil guys the exact
same.
<Sounds good.>
Upon closer look after he passed I noticed a whitish coating on him, but did not
see it a few hours ago. I am thinking a bacterial infection perhaps?
<Could be.... maybe fungus, velvet, excess skin slime from the uncountable
irritation of his foul conditions before....>
Weakened immune system from the disgusting water conditions he had been kept in
prior to me getting him?
<Undoubtedly at least a serious contributing factor>
Stress?
<Another contributor, I'm sure>
But then there is the coating, and I have seen that before and it really looked
bacterial to me. Ugh!
<Ugh, indeed. Well, perhaps he at least was a little more comfy than before.>
Thank y'all for listening and Thank you for THE best website there could
possibly be on the net. Magic
<And thank you for the kind words. -Sabrina>
Betta sitting 3
Hi again, Sabrina, Thank you so much for your input.
<Hello again, and you're quite welcome, as always.>
I tried my best to talk my friend in to letting me keep the surviving Betta, but
he said for me to go and get my own. I told him that if I see that lil guy in
even the slightest dirty water or any shape he should not be in (in other words,
not being paid attention to, any kind of disease, poor coloring, poor nutrition,
etc..) that I was taking him back and that is it! My friend agreed to that. He
knows I will do it too. He did not like your comment about the baseball bat, LOL
and a BIG RIGHT ON TO YOU!, but knows I will take one to him. :) :)
<LOL! Well, I did mean it jokingly, so let him know I meant him no harm ;) And
I'm glad he's going to have you looming over him to keep an eye on his fish.>
I will teach him how to take care of his lil guy (MY lil guy)
<Hopefully, that's all he needs - is to learn how properly to care for a
fish. Once he knows, maybe he'll do better for 'em.>
Even if it takes beating him silly and getting on his nerves and taking his fish
away from him.
<Disclaimer: I do not condone the use of baseball bats for teaching lessons,
etc.>
I don't believe people should own any kind of animal if they don't look for the
info to take care of them prior to owning them or right directly after getting
them. (And I prefer the first over the latter)
<Indeed.... But researching after a purchase is researching too late - but hey,
better late than never.>
As soon as I got the lil guys to sit, after getting them correctly set up so
they could see what day light looked like and I could see them, I was on your
site reading away for hours. Grabbing every little piece of info so I could care
for them properly. I will be printing up the info for him and I will sit there
while he reads it IN FRONT of me and make sure he understands it.
<Wonderful. Uh.... but don't scare him away from caring for his fish,
okay? Just help him learn wherever necessary.>
Just so I am sure here (lots of info floating through my head and it gets
jumbled) how often on the water change and what percent?
<I'd do 50% every week in something of a gallon-ish size, perhaps twice a week
if it's a lot smaller. Or if it's one of those little bitty Betta bowls (UGH!),
daily.>
Do you recommend Novaqua over Stress coat?
<I use/recommend both.>
Can you use too much of either?
<Yes. Try to use them as directed.>
He just has the display tank right now, but might buy a 1 gallon bowl(?) with a
filter on it. I have not seen it so I have no clue what he is talking about.
They are sold at Wal-Mart, specifically made for Bettas.
<Do beware of this if it's an undergravel filter - if your friend slacks on
water changing, nitrates can get dangerously high in the little bowl very
fast. UGFs require a bit more maintenance than I usually like to recommend for
a beginner's use. However - there's a small 2-gallon tank (and other larger
ones, as well) that is available at chain-type stores (and Wal-Mart) made by
Regent (Marineland) that has a small wet-dry filter. These are also available
from Eclipse (still Marineland). This would be a super simple tank for your
friend to use.>
I am patiently waiting for one of the LFS out in my area to get in some Split
tails and some Crown tails, now that I am hooked. I have quite a few tanks just
itching to be set up. :) I knew there was a fish out there calling my name!
<Sounds exciting!!>
I hope you won't mind me writing again, most likely with more news or questions,
especially once I get my tanks set up, and snitch MY lil guy back from my
friend. *grin*
<Of course we don't mind. Please do feel free to.>
Thanks so very much! Magic
<Any time. -Sabrina>
Betta Losing Color
Hi Mr. Fenner,
<Ananda here tonight...>
My husband and I are worried about our Betta fish, Max. Max is about a year old
(at least when we bought him from Wal-Mart a year ago, the person there said
that he was a baby at the time) and he has not been acting like his "normal"
self. He is hanging around the top of his vase listlessly. He doesn't swim
around like he once did, and the color on his once deep maroon body has faded to
a silvery white.
<All the time?>
We thought perhaps it was bacterial and gave him a quarter Maracyn tablet for
five days, but this didn't seem to help.
<Maracyn does not work against all bacteria that can affect fish....>
We noticed the problem began when we moved him from his large glass vase into a
1.5 gallon aquarium with filter. He seemed happy at first but a couple months
down the road this odd behavior and color change began. We don't know if it's
associated with the move to the new tank but expect it's probably not since he's
back in his vase and still listless and colorless.
<I would keep him in the bigger quarters. How often are you doing water changes?
What are your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH? What temperature is the tank
kept at? Hard to know what's wrong without a bit more info.>
Also, I read an FAQ area on your site that suggested treating the water when
someone complained of a listless Betta and color change, but we do treat Max's
water with Aqua Safe (3-4 drops in the vase) and he does eat Betta food.
<You might also try a change of diet. I've noticed our Betta gets bored of the
same old, same old food after a while.>
I would be grateful for any help you can give us.
<Some water quality info and a photo would help us help you....>
Thank you in advance,
Laura Bullock
<Wish I could help more -- if you can get a photo, that would be great.
--Ananda>
Pale Betta (11/01/03)
Hi Ananda,
Thank you so much for your reply. I'll answer your questions as best as I know
how.
<Okay.>
Yes, Max floats around near the top of the vase all the time unless we turn the
vase a bit; then, sometimes he swims but only for a few seconds.
We have moved him to the big vase again (This was over a month ago.) but he is
acting the same. We change his water about once a week. I do not
know the ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH, but I will buy a test kit and find
out. The tank does not have a heater so the water is lukewarm from the tap when
we change it and then is room temperature water for the rest of the duration
until we clean the vase.
<Do try to keep the water you use for water changes the same temperature as the
water he's in. That will be less stressful for him.>
We will try new food as well. Any recommendations?
<Hikari makes good stuff ("Betta Bio-gold"), plus a treat of bloodworms now and
then (frozen bloodworms, thawed, give just a couple at a time). Marineland has a
new one out called "BIO-blend"; I haven't used that one, but most of the rest of
the stuff in that line is good.>
I must say we were ignorant of the need to keep the water at a certain
temperature. Our house maintains a temperature of between 68-78 degrees and we
thought Max was fine in his vase.
<That's an awfully big temperature swing for a fish. They're from tropical areas
where their water temperature doesn't vary more than a degree or two over a
day.>
Is there an optimum water temperature for Bettas and also, do we need a heater
for his vase?
<Bettas do prefer warmer water -- we keep our Betta tank at 80 degrees. Hmmm.
I'm beginning to wonder if Max is saying he doesn't like the cold....>
One hears that all Bettas need is a clean vase, some pretty stones on the
bottom, and food. The store personnel as well as some literature we have read
about Bettas are very misleading, especially to the general public like us who
don't know a lot about fish.
<Yup. Generally, they want to sell you more Bettas.>
I've attached a couple photos of Max. I must say it is difficult to take a photo
of a fish! I hope these help.
<Hmmm...they help rule out some possibilities, at least.>
Thank you again for the information, and I look forward to hearing from you
further.
<I chatted with Sabrina, and we really can't make a definite diagnosis on Max.
It could be a number of things, not all of which are treatable. On the other
hand, it may be that a change of food, a heater, and better water quality may
help. Do get those test kits. You might also want to check and make sure the
AquaSafe neutralizes chloramine as well as chlorine.>
Laura
P.S. I've copied this email to my husband at work so he can see what you've
suggested and what I've written. He may have a little more insight.
<I haven't seen anything further, so I'll fire this off now. Let me know what
those water parameters are when you get those test kits! --Ananda>
Max is Just Getting Maxed Out..
Thank you so much! I will email you with the test kit results.
<Cool! Got some more info from a Betta breeder I know... she says that some
Bettas are born pale-colored, develop color later, and then lose the color when
they get older. If you're doing 100% water changes every week, she suggested you
switch to 50% water changes twice a week. If you can't find the Hikari pellets,
or if he won't eat them, she suggested Aqua-culture Betta Micro Pellet food. She
suggested feeding him 50% frozen bloodworms and 50% Betta pellets. She says "If
he is taking his food in, then spitting it out, taking it in, spitting it out,
etc, then that's a sign that he's saying 'I can't eat hard foods easily any
more'." She also suggested Hikari frozen brine shrimp (it's enriched with
vitamins & stuff) as something Max might go nuts over. --Ananda>
Pale Betta (11/02/03)
Dear Ananda,
Sad news to report here- Max went on to his next life this afternoon.
<Bummer. I was afraid his color change might be a sign of old age....>
This morning, I bought a 2 gallon aquarium with filter and a small heater that
heated the water temperature gradually to 75 degrees and would've heated it to
approximately 80 had Max lived.
<And now you have a great tank when you're ready to get a new fish.>
Before putting Max in, I treated the water with Aqua Safe as I've done in the
past and made sure the water temperature was just about the same as his vase
water temperature. I bought the Hikari pellets and we also had the bloodworms,
which we tried to feed Max, but he just wouldn't eat.
He seemed paler and paler as I checked on him and monitored the aquarium's
temperature every half hour or so. Last check I found him on the bottom of the
tank floating vertically. Hopefully he'll have better luck in his next
incarnation. We will miss him.
<Understandable.>
Thank you anyway for your suggestions and attentiveness. I truly appreciate your
effort.
Laura
<You're quite welcome -- thank you for taking the time and energy to do the best
you could for your fish. --Ananda>
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