Hello.
<Hi...this is Jorie>
I just discovered your website today and wish I had known about it a lot
earlier.
<'Tis a great website...I'm very grateful to have found it a few years back
myself!>
I have one male Betta in a (probably) ½ gallon "Betta keeper." It doesn't
have a filtration system or anything like that. Luigi was really healthy and
active till recently, but all of a sudden he's just lying at the bottom of the
tank. He's breathing pretty heavily and has a decent-size white spot behind his
gill (I don't think it's fuzzy or anything - almost looks more like a gouge, but
he's by himself). I'm feeling like this is probably all my fault because I
haven't been watching him that closely. I've had him for about 3 months. He
was a really good eater (Wardley Circle of Care), but now he's not even
interested. He does come up to the top to breathe every once in a while.
<How often do you do water changes on this little tank? This is very important,
especially since there isn't a filtration system. With a tank that size, I'd do
maybe 2 75% changes per week. Also, be very careful not to overfeed your
Betta...they only need about 4-5 pellets per feeding (whatever they can consume
in about 2-3 minutes). If there is excess food lying around the tank, that will
just contribute to poor water quality. When you are doing water changes, be sure
to match the temperature and pH as closely as possible of the old to new water.
Additionally, I assume you are using tap water - be sure to use a dechlorinator
to remove chlorine from the water...there are many brands available at most pet
stores. Follow the directions on the bottle for dosage. Also, might I suggest
you "upgrade" his food to the Hikari brand pellets...Wardley is pretty much on
the low-end of the scale. A small container of Hikari pellets won't cost you
too much more, and it will be greatly appreciated by your friend. I think that
with proper maintenance (i.e., more frequent water changes) your Betta will be
just fine...sounds like a completely fixable situation!>
I've learned a lot from reading over your site today, but I'm wondering if
there's any chance to save Luigi now.
<Water changes, water changes, water changes. Is he still swimming and eating?
If so, it's definitely not a lost cause.>
I keep him at work with me - the pet store said he would be really
low-maintenance.
<Sadly, my friend, you've learned the hard way that some fish stores can be less
than reliable. Not that the Betta is "high maintenance", per se, but it does
have specific requirements. The one additional thing I'd suggest is to get a
small floating thermometer to keep an eye on the tank's temperature...ideally,
it should be at between 80 and 82 degrees for the Betta, but more importantly,
be sure to keep the temp. as constant as possible. You won't find a heater for
a tank that small that won't fry the fish, so I certainly wouldn't suggest that,
but I would suggest avoiding putting the tank in direct sunlight, etc.>
I can't afford an expensive set-up, but is there anything I can do to help
him? I haven't been working much this morning because I'm feeling so bad for
him.
<Since Xmas is just around the corner, perhaps you could put a 3 gal. Eclipse
tank on your list for your friend. I've got two Bettas each in their own 3 gal
tanks, and it's a Betta heaven, I tell you! The reason I suggest the Eclipse is
that it comes with a 3 stage filtration unit. I don't remember the exact cost,
but I do not believe I spent more than $35 for the entire set up (and maybe even
less than that). You would then be able to fit a 5 watt heater in the tank to
ensure constant temperature, and you'd be able to do less water changes (the
more water in a tank, the more stable the environment). As for your Betta's
present situation, just keep doing water changes religiously, as I'm guessing
poor water condition is the culprit here.
Hope I helped you and your fishy friend...good luck, and let me know if you have
more questions! Jorie>
Meghan
My Betta had an accident
Hey, I know it'll take you a few days before you can answer, but I thought I
should ask.
<Hello...Jorie here...I try to answer as quickly as I can, but as we all are,
I'm super-busy these days! Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...>
See, I was cleaning my Betta's tank and I had him in a little
glass like I always do when I clean. Well, this time he jumped out.
<Uh-oh...sorry you had to learn the hard way to keep the container covered. I
usually just wrap a towel around the bowl whenever I'm doing this sort of
complete water change in the Betta's main tank, both to protect from jumping,
but also to (hopefully) give the fish a sense of security. I imagine being
transplanted like that can be stressful.>
I wasn't ready for this because he never tries to jump out of his container.
<Yep, they do do this sometimes...>
I had to catch him before he went down the drain. I barely caught him.
<Yikes! So glad you did!>
Well, now his tail is all raggedy and it has little brown spots on it. He's
usually a really bright purple. His tail is in strips. I didn't mean to hurt
him. Also his gills are swollen looking. Not on the outside, but on the inside.
Like the meat part is
poofing out. I can't remember if his gills always looked like that. Anyway, if
he lives (I'd be surprised because he looks so awful) will his tail grow back
together? He's swimming around and eating. He's just a little skittish. I figure
that's understandable. Will he be OK?
<Of course you didn't mean to hurt him. Just remember that all fish have the
capacity to jump and it's always a good idea to keep containers covered. Bettas
can be surprisingly resilient little creatures...just be sure to keep his water
conditions pristine, and you may want to even add a bit of MelaFix to the water
to stimulate tail re-growth. It may take some time, but with good water quality
and lots of rest, he should be OK. Just so long as he's eating and swimming, it
doesn't seem to me as though he's in pain. Just keep your eye on him and let us
know if he takes a turn for the worse. Hopefully, he'll be just fine! Good
luck, Jorie>
Pin Holes in Betta Tail
Just curious as to whether you can explain the recent occurrence of what
appears to be pin holes in the fin and tail of my Beta. I've never noticed them
before and I've had him for 2 years now. It doesn't appear that he is unhealthy,
he's fairly energetic. Thank you very much for your time!
Joanna
<Hi Joanna, Don here. Most fin problems start with poor water quality. You might
want to increase the number of water changes you are doing. Adding a little
salt, 1 tbls per 2 or 3 gallons, will help prevent fungus from attacking the
damaged tissue while he heals>
Re: Underneath Betta's Gills are inflamed
Hey WWM (thanks for Jorie's advice last time)...it's me again. My Betta is still
experiencing fin rot (getting worse) *pouts*
<I think it may be time to try antibiotics as a treatment. Fin rot is caused by
a gram negative rod bacteria, so something like tetracycline would work. Any
broad spectrum antibiotic suitable for gram negative bacteria will be fine, but
my preference is tetracycline. Again, only treat your fish while he's in QT
alone - do a big water change before beginning treatment, to eliminate any
ammonia or other toxic buildup, then treat according to the instructions. You
will want to remove the filter media while treating as well. Do once full
course of treatment, do a water change, then re-assess the situation to see if
he's improved. You can do a second course of treatment with almost all
antibiotics, including tetracycline, if necessary.>
He seems to be pretty active and alert still, but I noticed underneath his gills
when he flares (which he has been doing a lot today) is pretty red. is that ok?
What should I do?
<Perhaps this is a sign of the fin rot advancing to the body...treat with
antibiotics as specified above ASAP.>
I fed him ONE Hikari pellet because I haven't fed him for days to cure his
constipation and keeping water clean. I'm still using 'BettaFix' or 'BettaMax'
as treatments with a touch of Aquarium salt. No improvement on the fin and tail
rot though (on the crown Betta at least) - the 2nd Betta (bi-color) is
improving.
<Leave the 2nd Betta in the tank with the BettaFix and BettaMax if he's
improving, but isolate the other and do the antibiotic treatment. The BettaFix
and BettaMax are mainly extract of tea tree oil, so they won't help an advanced
case of fin rot. Your other fish does need other medications and soon, but do
be sure he's separated from the other fish before doing so.>
JNW - Joanne
<Jorie>
Re: Underneath Betta's Gills are inflamed
Thanks for the tips (Jorie) I was wondering if there's any method in finding out
how old my Betta is?
<None that I am aware of. The best estimate I know of is solely based on
how long you've had your pet, then add maybe 6-8 mos. on to account for the
time prior to and at the pet store. Rough guestimate at best, but unless you've
raised your Betta since fryhood, I don't know how else to tell.>
My crown Betta has been jerking back and forth,
opening his mouth real wide...is he having trouble breathing? What kind of
behavior is that?
<Could just be his way of expressing himself...each Betta is really unique and
has his own personality. It could also be a symptom of swim bladder disorder,
but if you are following the instructions I previously gave you, that should
resolve this potential problem as well. Keep the water quality clean, don't
overfeed, and all should be well.>
I bought another crown Betta (fuchsia color- real pretty)
and he definitely behaves quite differently! I watched him for a bit while he
swims back and forth in his new tank, then all of a sudden he floats at the top
on his side. for a few minutes he wasn't moving and I thought he was dead. But
when I walked over to him and moved my finger to catch his attention, he like
woke up and swam around again. Is that normal? What is he doing?
<Bettas are really intelligent fish, believe it or not. I have one Betta who
acts similarly to what you describe here...even to this day, I walk by the tank
sometimes and think "Oh my God, he's a goner", but he's just
resting/sleeping/playing dead/who-knows-for-sure! I'm not sure that anyone can
tell you exactly what is going on in the Betta's mind, but this is far from
abnormal Betta behavior, so don't worry. Just keep exercising him with your
finger or a mirror every couple of days or so, just to keep him from getting
bored, and all should be well!>
JNW - Joanne
<Good luck, Joanne! How's the fish responding to the antibiotics, by the way?>
Icky Betta
I have a female Betta (Miss Fish) and we just placed her in a larger tank
with 3 other communal fish about 2 weeks ago.
When I came home from work yesterday our yellow-tailed guppy was dead. I did
take her out immediately. Later that night we noticed Miss Fish was starting to
get small white spots on her fins. This morning she had a spot on her nose and
still some on the fins. She was hiding out in her cave and not very active. We
took her out of the aquarium and placed her in her older smaller goldfish tank
with fresh water. Could this be "Ick"? It sounds like it is from what I read,
but not sure if the dead fish could have effected her. Anything we can do to
treat her? Should we thoroughly scrub the other tank also? Thanks for any help.
<Hi, Don here. It does sound like Ick. If there is any way to remove the other
two fish and allow the main to run fishless for a month the parasite will starve
out. If you do this, keep everything running and raise the temp to 86. The fish
should go into a small, bare bottom tank. Add one tbls of salt for every 2
gallons of water. Do a 50% water change daily, siphoning from the bottom. If you
notice a large number of spots disappear after a water change, wait an hour and
do another, again from the bottom. Have the same concentration of salt already
dissolved in the replacement water. Because of the life cycle of Ick, treatment
must continue for at least two weeks after the last spot drops off. Because of
this, salt is my preferred treatment. It's not as harsh as some meds and costs a
lot less. And it's 100% effective>
Hi WWM Crew! I've got 2 Bettas (One is a Tri-colored CROWNTAIL and the other is
just a Bi-colored male Betta) 2 days ago I noticed the CROWN Betta is not eating
and less active. I had this Betta for a year now and I shamefully admit that I
don't have much Betta care knowledge. Just today I noticed that his gill cover
has a bit of white patches, which I suspect is spread from his pelvic fin.
(since one side of his pelvic fin has dissolved/eaten away by bacterial) I am
very sad to see that he's suffering! Though he seems pretty alert and active
now. (after I've treated him with BETTAFIX - yesterday & BETTAMAX - today) I've
also changed his water and treated it with *super strength* tap water
conditioner - as usual and sanitized Betta BOWL & HEX TANK with AQUARIUM SALT.
Unfortunately I keep them in my room and the space is minimal so I can't place
them in a tank. What can I do? =_= Another thing is that I don't have anything
to keep track of his water temperature or the Nitrate/Nitrite levels (I'm not
even familiar with what they are, still reading your Q&A's in learning - thanks
a bunch to your website!) Last but not least, I notice the fins are a bit
shorter and signs of splits too. I would hate to see them die, especially due to
my carelessness. Now I know to keep temperature to 80. and I'll try to keep it
constant and the same when I change water. I love both my Betta cause they've
brought me a lot of happiness with their unique personalities! I miss them
building their bubble nest...I really need some help please.
J.N.W.
<<Hello, do not panic :) All you can do at this point is keep their water clean
by doing regular water changes, and continue treating them with
antibiotic/antibacterial meds. Good job so far on trying to catch up on your
knowledge of fishkeeping. Next thing you need to do is buy yourself an ammonia
test kit, and use it regularly. Ideally, the ammonia
level should be kept at .25 or lower, in order to keep the animal as stress-free
as possible. Of course, the more water, the better. But at least testing your
bowls will give you an idea of how often you need to change their water.
Fish produce ammonia as a waste product. In a tank with a filter, for example,
the ammonia is oxidized into nitrite, and then to nitrate. When we cycle a new
tank, the ammonia stays in the water until enough bacteria grow to use it up,
changing it to nitrite...then the nitrite stays in the water until the bacteria
grow to use it, changing that to nitrate. This process takes about a month. In a
bowl, however, there is no filter, hence the ammonia stays in the water and just
gets higher and higher, to the point where it can burn the fish's gills, even.
You must test the water to know the levels, and change the water when those
levels get too high. Chances are, you can even have some level of nitrite in a
bowl, but it is just as toxic as ammonia, you do not want either to get higher
than .25ppm. If you control the ammonia, you control the rest :) By the way,
fish cannot recuperate in water with high levels of any of those things, no
matter how many meds you add, the stress is still there in the form of high
ammonia.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions if you need to. :)
-Gwen>>
Swollen Betta 2
Thanks a bunch WWM (Gwen) U guys are da best!
<Hi there...you've got Jorie here this time...>
I appreciate your reply...I've now changed the waters more frequently and will
the Nitrite test kit as advised.
<Excellent. Be sure that ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings are all at
zero.>
Since my Crowntail Betta is swollen, should I not feed him for a few days like I
have to see if is just constipation?
<I would suggest you start there, yes. Also, check to see if there are visible
traces of fish poop - that's a good indication as well.>
I've read on some of the replies that for constipation I should give them some
'Epsom' salt, does that help? How does it work?
<One or two teaspoons of Epsom salt in a 5 gal. tank would be an appropriate
dosage, and yes indeed it can help constipation, since it will act as a
laxative. Or, you can try feeding your Betta a frozen, thawed shelled pea...some
will eat them, some won't. That's another route used to treat fish
constipation.>
My bi-color Betta seems to be developing 'grey' patches around his gills, what
is that?
<Sounds like it's a fungus of some sort - when was the last time you changed his
water? If he in his own tank? If so, I'd suggest you begin treating with
something like Maracyn (erythromycin). Be sure to pull out the filter media
before beginning treatment according to the instructions on the packaging.>
Joanne N.W.
<Hope I helped, Joanne. Good luck. Jorie>
Follow up Betta questions
Hey crew! (Jorie) *smiles* I recently named my Bettas, but I don't recall
telling you guys the names yet.. hehe and they are: Bubbles, Wiggles and Ruffles
<Awww, very cute!>
My Betta(s) are now getting better, (Bubbles - tri color crown tail) is now
experiencing tail and fin rot, but I'm keeping the water in tip top condition!
<Excellent. Water quality is paramount, so do keep on top of that.>
I'm feeding all three of them 1 Hikari pellet a day. But the
antibiotic is working quite well cus (Wiggles - bi color veil tail) has healed
so I removed him back into his bigger tank.
<Good to hear. Should the problem re-surface, you could do another round of the
same antibiotic, but hopefully that won't be necessary.>
Oh, I got bigger tanks for them by the way because I remember how u said a
bigger environment can result in better quality of water right?
<Right! Sure your fishies are happy in their new digs!>
As for (Ruffles - new fuchsia crown tail) is behaving normally, but I notice
yesterday after he had his flaring contest with Wiggles, one of his gill (left
side) wouldn't close. He doesn't
seem to be bothered by it, so I left it alone. But do u think he'll be ok?
<I've seen this before, could just be part of his anatomy. Keep an eye on him,
though, and if it appears to be getting bigger/worse, re-assess. Sounds totally
normal right now.>
JNW - Joanne
Betta Problems
Hi, it's Jeremy again, as I was feeding my Betta the last few days I've
noticed he wasn't looking healthy at all. He would stay near the top of his
tank with just his mouth out of the water so he can breath. Just today I
started to clean his tank and when I looked at him more closely and noticed
some pretty bad problems. First I noticed his eyes had large white dots in
them and when he looked around his eyes appeared to be protruding pretty
far. I'm pretty sure this is Popeye or cloudy eye. Then I saw just behind his
eye some white blotches, I took a closer look with a flashlight and saw that
there was a good size gash in his head! It looks like a v-shaped cut with
the v folded, protruding straight out. As I looked him over with the flash
light, I noticed the top of his head is brown, and he has brown blotches
everywhere! Now I'm really starting to worry. I looked at his fins, because
he's been recovering from fin and tail rot, and his pectoral fins are clear!
They look like they have lost all webbing between! They just look like brown
strings barely holding shape, and his fins still looked torn. I inspected
his tank next and then saw it. I didn't believe I've never noticed it before but
the fake plant in his tank is really sharp! What was I thinking?! I'm
guessing that his fins were torn on that and that's most likely where that
cut came from. But it still doesn't explain the brown blotches, or the
Popeye. I change his tank water every two weeks, and feed him 3-4 Hikari Bio
Gold pellets twice a day. I was treating him with Melafix for his tail rot,
should I put him back on it? I also check his water frequently. As soon as I
see the nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia levels rise I change his water. What
should I do??? Am I doing anything wrong? And how can I prevent this in the
future? Thank you!
<<Hey Jeremy, sorry to hear you are having such troubles. The best way to
prevent these problems is to keep testing your water and doing regular,
partial water changes. I realize you have been testing your water, good job!
Please keep doing water changes, and make sure, when you do them, that the
water is dechlorinated, and that it's the Same Temperature as the bowl!
Use a thermometer if you need to, for better precision. Also, it's
stressful for the fish to be too cold, you may need to add a heater
for the winter months temperature between 75 and 80F will be best,
remember, keep it stable!
As for the blotches and pop-eye, you may need a stronger medication than
Melafix at this point. Go to your LFS and ask them for some Maracyn II.
Here is a link to help you:
http://www.aquariumguys.com/maracynii.html
Ask your LFS guys/gals how to dose it for a small bowl.
Good luck!
Remember, water quality is the key to keeping fish healthy :)
-Gwen>>
Intense body fungus on Betta?!
Hello and how are you?
I hope you can offer some much-needed insight on my
male betta.
I bought him in early spring, and somewhere around
June he developed a weird white lump on his side. We
were advised by the pet store to change the water and
treat him with Betta Fix, which we did for the
recommended time frame. He seemed to get a little
better, then...the weird lump came back, along with
white patches on the skin. Since June we've treated
him with Erythromycin tablets, which didn't seem to
work. Now we've been treating him with aquarium salt,
Pimafix, and Melafix, along with a partial water change
every week.
We suspect that it's a combination of body fungus and
fin/tail rot, but it's getting even worse now. The
white patches are spreading and his bottom fin is
being eaten away.
All along, the little guy has hung in there. He eats
(beta flakes every other day) and is very active; he
flares at me when I come into the room. He likes the
temp to be warm, town 80-85 degrees. I'm not sure what
else to do for him!
Thanks for your thoughts.
< Try treating with Metronidazole for the internal infection and Nitrofuranace
for the body slime and tail rot. Unfortunately these medications are usually in
tablets that treat 10 gallons at a time. Clean the tank before
medicating.-Chuck>
~Jamie
Betta recovering? Looks terrible!
Hi Everyone,
I hope you're all doing well, and let me say thank you
for all your great advice and information on this
website.
I had written to you all about a month ago about my
male Betta, Hawk, who has been battling some sort of
weird disease since June. It started off as a white
lump, then turned into a white patch, then massive fin
and tail rot (all at his back end and bottom
fin--also, he's in about a 5 gallon tank with a
charcoal filter). I went through BettaFix, Melafix,
PimaFix, tetracycline tablets, and when he took a turn
for the worse, I contacted you all. A very nice
gentleman suggested I try treating him with
Metronidazole for any internal infection and
Nitrofuranace for his slime coat. Unfortunately, none
of the pet stores in my area carried these
medications, and the situation was desperate, so I
bought Maracyn Plus.
Then I did a complete water change and tossed all his
old gravel, little castle, and nasty plastic plant and
since replaced it with fresh gravel, a silk plant, and
a little hidey-hole cave. Thankfully, Hawk seemed to
improve. He's a lot livelier and swimming around,
always eager to eat (switched his food, too, from
flakes to Hikari Betta Bio Gold pellets--he loves em!)
The thing that worries me now is, his flesh seems to
be regenerating, but it's still all white and it looks
as if he's been chewed on. Is this normal?
< Strange as it looks, this is the flesh regenerating. A white fuzzy look is
fungus and needs to be treated. What you are seeing is a very good sign that
your fish is recovering from the bacterial infection.>
Does it
take a very long time for flesh and fins to heal after
something this bad?
< Depends on the water temp, water quality and type of food. Be patient.>
Lo and behold I found the previous recommended
medications on the Drs. Foster & Smith website (plain
Metronidazole crystals and a product called Furan-2,
which contains the Nitrofuranace, Furazolidone, and
Methylene blue Trihydrate). So my real question to you
is, should I change the medications again?
< No the Maracyn seems to be working so stay with it as per the directions on
the package.-Chuck>
Or should
I continue with the Maracyn Plus and maybe find a
compatible product that will also treat his slime
coat?
This little fish is amazing, he deserves all the help
I can give him! I'll try anything. And again thanks
for your time!
~Sincerely,
Jamie
A Bettas Time
Thank you for your suggestions on how to save my Betta. Unfortunately
nothing worked and he seems intent on dying. And maybe he is a very old fish and
its just his time. He just sort of hangs in the tank almost vertical and every
so often he has a spasm and releases a big bubble. If I can't save him I just
want him to die comfortably. Do you think I should
just leave him be? Or shut the lights off him? Should I still try and give him
food? Please don't tell me to flush him because I could not do that. Thank you
again for your help. Thankfully my new Betta is living happily and wants to eat
constantly. I really appreciate your help.
Jaime
<Hi Jaime, Don here. Sorry that your Betta is not improving. If you see him
trying to get active, you can try feeding a tiny pinch. But do remove any
uneaten while doing water changes. If he does not show any energy, it may be
time to put him down. Don't worry, no one here would ever suggest you flush a
living fish. The best way is to use clove oil. You can get it at some health
food or natural remedy stores. Just a few drops stirred into a cup of his water,
then add the Betta. Leave him in there for at least an hour. A very peaceful
death. Another way is cold shock. Put a cup of water in the freezer until you
get skim ice on top. Break away the ice and add the fish to the cold water. Very
quick.>
A Thank You
Hi Don, I cannot thank you enough for all your help. <You just did, it is my
pleasure> The Betta has passed on now and I am trying to accept that maybe he
was just very old. <Sorry to hear> At least my other one is doing well and I
will turn all my attention to him now. It's amazing how attached one can get to
a fish, isn't it? Again, I thank you for your kindness and your good advice.
Jaime
<Good luck with him. Hope to see you join us in the forum. I'm "Fish Soup"
there>
Betta Fins
Two days ago, I woke up to find my Siamese Fighting fish has lost part of
his tail. He is in a smallish tank by himself, with no other fish around. I feed
him dried blood worms once a day and clean out his tank about every 10 days.
What is the problem and what do I do about it?
Your help would be appreciated.
Regards
Zoë
<Hi Zoë, Don here. The fin decay you see usually starts with poor water
conditions. It would be much better to do small partial water changes more
often. Say 25% every 3 days. For right now I would do a few 50% water changes
over the next day or two and add a little salt to help him heal and prevent
fungus. I usually suggest 2 to 3 tbls per 10 gallons. Not sure of the size of
your tank. A few other points. If you do not have a small heater, I suggest you
get one. Bettas need a steady temp in the high 70's. An air powered sponge
filter would be an ideal addition. And vary his diet. Bloodworms are a good
food, but not complete. There are a lot of good Betta foods out there>
Tumor-like growth on Betta
Hello,
<HI...Jorie here>
First I'd like to say your web page is very helpful and informative. Thank you
for making this resource available.
<You're welcome. I can honestly say that I learned almost everything I know
about aquariums and fishkeeping from this site, so I, too, am grateful for it!>
I've a Betta that has a problem. He eats fine, but his demeanor is somewhat
erratic. He startles easily at times, makes darting grabs for his food and
circles the bowl at speed.
<Hmmm...I'm not sure that this behavior by itself is odd for a Betta, unless
you've recently noticed a change. Bettas all seem to have their own little
personalities, and this doesn't sound unlike some of the ones I've kept in the
past.>
He's developed a swollen tumor-like growth on his side, discolored black and his
tail is diminished, also with black along its outer edge. Is there anything I
can do to treat him?
<OK, this is obviously the sign of a problem. First of all, have you tested the
water you keep your Betta in for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates? Also, a bit more
info. would be great...how big is the tank you keep him in, how long has it been
set up, what's the temperature of the water and also the pH, and does he have
any tankmates?
With regards specifically to the growth, is it symmetrical or not? Are his
scales protruding? If so, that could be a sign of dropsy, which is in fact a
symptom of myriad diseases. Or, more simply, the fish could be
constipated...have you noticed if he's pooping? If it is constipation, adding
one or two tsp. of Epsom salt per 5 gal. of water should help, along with trying
to feed your Betta a frozen, then thawed, pea (some go for it, some don't). You
would want to fast him for a few days prior to the pea, as well, which may make
it more enticing and should also help with the constipation. If this is an
asymmetrical lump, or tumor, as you said earlier, it could also be a tumor. How
long have you had this fish (how old is he, if you know)? Many older Bettas
(normal lifespan is between 2-3 years) do seem to develop tumors as they age,
and I have yet to find anything that will cure it. As long as the affected fish
is swimming normally, eating normally, and generally looks OK, I think he's
fine...it's when the fish starts losing his appetite, laying on the bottom,
etc., that I would start to recommend euthanasia.>
Regards,
Lee Cutler
<Hope this information helps. If you can get back to me with a little bit more
info., I can better help you diagnose the problem, but right now, it seems as
though it could be one of several things. Good luck! Jorie>
Re: Tumor-like growth on Betta
Hi Lee,
I'm trying to envision what this growth looks like, and I'm having trouble,
based on your description. I don't think I've personally ever seen anything
like that. What I meant by "protruding scales" can also be described as a
"pinecone effect"...if you look at your fish from the top, does he look like a
pinecone? Doesn't sound like it, from your explanations, but just wanted to
clarify.
I would suggest you step up the water changes in that 1 gal. bowl...personally,
I'd suggest doing a 50% change 2 times per week, optimally. If you can't do
that, at the very minimum do a weekly change. Keep his water clean and
hopefully his "sore" won't get infected.
As I said earlier, if he's eating, swimming, pooping, etc. normally, I think
everything is OK. Perhaps this is yet another manifestation of the
tumor-phenomenon I've seen in older Bettas...sadly, there isn't much you can do
when that happens. I'd like to do some research to figure out exactly what is
causing this in captive-bred and raised Bettas - maybe some genetic deficiency
resulting from overbreeding? Who knows...when I get some spare time, I plan to
investigate!
Good luck to you and your fish,
Jorie
Bloated Crowntail
My Crown Tail is 'Bluebell'. He's a very happy little guy but appears to be
bloated. What causes bloating?
<<Hello. A few things can cause bloating. Generally it's caused by constipation,
followed by intestinal blockage and infection. Sometimes in conjunction with bad
water quality. It can also be caused by internal worms or other parasites.>>
He has no signs of disease, his appetite is good (TetraMin Tropical Granules -
The Rich Mix as recommended). I use Stress Coat (10 drops per gallon) and
bottled 'drinking water' as recommended by the pet store. The bloating bothers
me though even though he seems fine. He is not as active as I would like to see
him and but tends to rest more on his plants. Is he sick? *crying* :-(
<<You need to switch his food for a while, try frozen daphnia. It acts as a
laxative and may help clear his blockage. You also need to make sure you are
doing regular partial water changes, and clean water will help him heal faster.
If the daphnia doesn't help, you may need to go to your local fish store and buy
some medicated flakes for internal infections. Ask them to help you.>>
Also, what is the best depth of a tank for a Betta? He lives in a nice sized
bowl right now but would like to get him a filtered 10gln hex tank if that would
be ok for him.
Thanks, worried 'mom'.
<<A 10g is a nice size, just be sure to put some plants in it for him. Real or
fake, floating or not, doesn't matter. That will give him places to hide when he
wants to. Bettas are more content in areas where they feel secure, large open
spaces will be avoided. If I were you, I would add a good quality heater to help
keep the tank temp stable. Keep the temp around 75 or 78F. You can go as high as
80F, as long as the temp is always the same in the tank and when you do
water changes. Yes, Bettas can live at room temp, but they do prefer it warmer,
especially in the winter when room temperatures can drop to 68F. Brrr.
-Gwen>>
Able and Cain, Romulus and Remus, now Sirius and Severus
To whom it may concern, <Concerns us all, but Don here today>
My Betta, Sirius, lost his brother, Severus, yesterday. I have no idea what
killed Severus. <If they were in the same tank then Sirius killed Severus> Today
when I came home from school Sirius was floating on the bottom of the tank on
his side. <"The tank", so there is only one tank here?> I thought he was dead
since that was the exact position Severus was in when I found him. It took me a
while to finally get him moving. However he is not acting normal. Usually he is
very hyper and swims a lot. However now he barely moves. He tries to get the
surface but can't. He can't seem to lift the bottom part of his body (float) and
he is using his fins a lot more then usual. What's wrong? Is there anything I
can do? Please help me save my fish!!
Brianna W.
<It sounds like you had two male Bettas in the same tank. There is no way to do
this. Even in a thousand gallon tank two male Bettas will hunt each other down
and one will die. They are not being mean, it's just the nature of Bettas. To
help save Sirius I would need more info. What size tank? Is it filtered and
heated? How long has it been running? Do you change water? How often and what
percent? If you have not done a water change in a while, do about 20 to 30% and
see if that helps. Repeat daily for a week or so. Make sure you match the temp
and use dechlorinator. Good luck>
Sirius and Severus
Thank you for your reply. Sadly Sirius pasted away. Sirius and Severus were
in the same tank but there was a divider. The tank wasn't huge. I don't know the
gallon size but about two hands across. It wasn't filtered or heated but I
changed the water about once a week. Thank you for you concern! <Sorry to hear.
Please don't give up. All you need is a small heater and air pump plus a sponge
filter. Around $20 and you're golden. Set it all up and put a small, raw shrimp
in the tank. Let it go for a 5 or 6 weeks and the filter is all dirty. Then just
add a single Betta. If the divider was clear, they may have stressed out trying
to kill one another. Or it may have been water conditions. Temp was a factor.
Bettas are tropical fish and a steady temp in the high 70's. Don>
Brianna
Betta with Mouth Fungus
Hi,
My female Betta w/ the horrible mouth fungus seems to have taken a turn for the
worse. I would like your opinion about what I should do.
I moved her into a 10 med tank. I treated it with Melafix and PimaFix. She is in
a fry enclosure, so she is close to the top of the tank. Her breathing is very
labored. <I hear this a lot where Melafix is used. some fish seem to react
poorly to it. You may want to do a partial water change> She lies at the bottom
of the fry enclosure, and occasionally comes up for air. My opinion question to
you is: Is she suffering? <Sure> Should I put the poor thing out of her misery,
or should I keep trying for a few more days? <Is she eating? IMO as long as
she's trying to eat, I'd give her every chance to live> Her mouth seems to look
a little bit better than before I treated her. Will she get better, or is she
suffering needlessly? <Impossible question for me to answer. I would try one of
the meds I suggested before putting her down. If she lives then her suffering
was not needless. But if it gets to where she can not eat, then it's time to
make the hard call>
Thanks,
Marilyn <Don>
White patch on Betta
I have had Harold for about 6 mo.s, he is a happy, very active crown tail Betta.
He started out in a 1/2 G tank where I did 100% water changes and he recently
moved into a 5G; there he gets 20% water changes. He gets a variety of food:
flakes, freeze dried blood worms, Betta bites, and sometimes, freshly hatched
brine shrimp. Since I moved him into the 5 I have been monitoring his behavior
more closely, and the transition, about a month ago, seems to have gone fine.
He, unfortunately, is developing some white areas near his gills. I read about
all of the diseases at
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfshparasites.htm but none of them
seem to really fit and a few kinda fit (Lymphocystis, Saprolegnia, Achyla,
Ichthyophthirius multifilius, or Oodinium ocellatum). I don't think its Ich
because the spots seem too big. (He has 2 spots; one is white, one is a little
more grey). He's acting well; I don't notice his breathing to be labored, and
he's still active and has a healthy appetite. He's not pale, and I couldn't find
anything in the FAQ's that sounded similar. I'm worried! I'm going to the pet
store tomorrow to get his water tested. Is there anything else I can do? I'm
afraid, after reading some of the FAQ's, to purchase any medicine because I
don't want to do any damage by mistreating his ailments. I might be
overreacting, because he seems perfectly healthy in all other respects, but if
its a dangerous parasite I want to catch it right away. Any suggestions? <Lets
see what info the water test gives us. Since the tank has been up for only a
month you may have a little ammonia or nitrite in the water. Even high nitrates
can cause this. Please get the actual numbers from the LPS. Do not except
"Everything is fine". Better yet would be to pick up a master kit so you could
test yourself. I could also be a fungus. Treatment is the same in either case.
Water changes and a little salt in case it is a fungus. About 2 tbls in a 5
gallon. BTW, does he have a heater? Bettas do much better when kept at a steady
temp in the high 70's. Don>
Betta Infection
Hi! I have a 26 gallon community tank w/ 10 or so female Bettas. Several
weeks ago, I noticed one of my females lower lips to look kind of white and
fuzzy. I took her out and treated her w/ both Maracyn and Maracin2. It seemed to
get a little better, so after the 5 day treatment, I put her back into the
community tank. <always wait at least two weeks after the fish is clear before
placing it back in the main> I was looking at all of the fish tonight, and saw
that the girl w/ the lip now had virtually no bottom lip, and it looked as if
the disintegration has moved down to her "chin area" almost down to her gill.
She keeps moving, so I can't see if it's an open hole or not. I treated the tank
w/ Melafix. What else can I do? Do you have any idea what it can be? Should I
take her out of the tank and put her by herself? She sometimes lies on the
bottom, but comes up to feed with the whole gang in the morning. I feel soo
sorry for her! I really hope you can help! I've had fish for over 10 years, but
haven't seen anything like this! <The white growth was a fungus. Usually
pristine water and a little salt will clear it. If the white growth is gone now,
but the jaw is still decaying, it may have gone bacterial. If all the other fish
seem OK, then I would remove her and treat alone. Try Nitrofurazone (Furan 2) or
Oxytetracycline. Don>
Thank you!
Marilyn
Puffer wins the battle, loses the war... Betta loses overall
I need some help. <Will try> I just got my 2nd Betta fish. I also got a 10
gallon tank and some small fish. I was told I could put a Betta in the tank and
they should be fine. Well I didn't know that I had a little puffer fish that was
a semi aggressive fish in there. I think he (not sure who did it) destroyed my
Betta's tail. <Almost 100% sure> The puffer died and not sure if that is why but
a little glad he did if it was him cause that was not nice. <It wasn't nice or
mean, just the nature of a puffer> Now the Betta is all sad and hides all day
and I have not seen him much. Don't know if I should take him out cause the mean
fish is dead. I don't believe it will grow back right? <Sure, he can regrow his
fins> I don't know what to do or if he is going to die or what. <No promises,
but if the only thing damaged is the fins he has a good chance of living. Add
about 2 tablespoons of aquarium salt to the 10 gallon to stop any infection from
getting a foot hold. Keep his water clean by changing about 2 or 3 gallons of
water a week> When the lights are on it doesn't seem like anyone is bothering
him. <Good> But at night when the light is out I am not sure. <Unless you have a
catfish, they all sleep at night> I really do think it was the puffer because no
one bothered with him. What should I do. Will he die? Is he depressed. <Maybe a
little hurt, not depressed> Can I help him. I feel so bad. He can swim but try's
to dig his head in the rocks to hide. Please tell me what to do.
Thanks
Kerry
<Hi Kerry, Don here. If you keep your Betta's water very clean and fresh and add
the salt he has a good chance of living. BTW, your pufferfish was not being
mean. He was being a pufferfish. I don't want to make you feel bad, but the
meanest thing that happened was putting the Betta in with him. Please research
any animal you may want before you buy it. When we take any animal into our care
we become responsible for their health and well being. Nothing we can do now
except learn from this. Pufferfish are very smart, and aggressive, fish with a
really great personality. They make great pets. But it is their nature to nip at
long fins on slow swimming fish like your Betta.>
Betta Scale Loss - 10/26/2004
Hi.
Yesterday I noticed that it looks like my Betta lost some scales above his
fin. It's pink. I'm really worried about my Betta.
Haley
<Hi, Haley; we really need more information to be able to help you out with your
Betta. How long have you had him? Do you know how he lost the scales (like,
was it an injury, or did it just mysteriously happen, or what)? Do you notice
anything else abnormal about him, including strange behaviour or
appearance? What kind of a tank is he in, is it a bowl or an actual
aquarium? Any other fish? Do you test the water for ammonia, nitrite, and
nitrate? If so, what are the readings? If not, you might consider doing a
large water change (be sure to match the temperature of the new water to the
temperature of the water the Betta's currently in) and get your water tested at
a local fish store. Hope to hear back from you soon, -Sabrina>
Betta Fins
Hi, I am the keeper of my daughter's beta fish. She left him when she went
back to college. I have been away for 3 weeks and my pet sitter has been looking
after him. I have two problems with him.
We feed him once a day - 3 to 4 beta fish food pellets and wait for him to eat
each one before we feed him the next (in order to minimize food sitting around
in his tank.)<Very good>
He is alone in a 10 gallon tank and we put in plastic plants and gravel. <Very
roomy>
Normally I do a 25% water change every two weeks, clean the plants, the filters,
change the charcoal filter, etc. I did that as soon as we returned. I use
filtered water, ensure its at room temperature before I introduce it, etc. <Do
you have a heater? Bettas are tropical fish and will not thrive at normal room
temperatures. Keep them in the high 70's.>
He was doing fine before we left, although his fins were starting to split.
When we came back I have found that he has not eaten for two days - he did on a
couple of occasions take food but then spit it out. His fins look as though they
have been ravaged. He's very lethargic and seems to want to hide behind one of
the plants.
Please could you tell me if you think this is ammonia poisoning that is causing
the issues <May have started as a water quality issue. You would need to test
the water. Most pet stores can do this for you, but a test kit if preferred. If
you have the store do the test, get numbers. Do not accept "Everything's fine"
as an answer. Post numbers here> and if so, what the heck I can do about it.
<Water changes until tank is cycled> I feel really sorry for him as we have
become quite attached to the little fellow. <Understood>
I'd really appreciate any insight or help that you can provide.
Thanks
Janice
<Hi Janice, Don here. Usually I recommend water changes and salt for most fin
problems. Most of the time lightly salted pristine water is all the fish needs
to recover. In your case the fish has been in decline for a few weeks and sounds
pretty bad. He may need some help to recover. First, we need to get the temp
right and test that water. I suggest a trip to the local fish/pet shop. Pick up
a heater and a master test kit. You need to test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
and pH. Some kits do not include the nitrate test. Purchase separately. Pick up
a med for fin/tail rot. Kanacyn is good if the have it in stock. Get the temp up
to 76 to 78, not over 80. Test the water. If you see any ammonia or nitrite or
if nitrate is over 20ppm, do a large water change (50%) before adding meds. Test
daily as some meds will destroy the bacteria needed to keep your water from
fouling. Do water changes if you see any spikes, replacing the med in the new
water. Adding some aquarium salt will help prevent fungus from attacking the
fins before they have time to heal. Two or three tbls spoons will do if you do
not see any cottony growth. If you do, increase slowly to eight to ten. If he
shows signs of stress, do a small water change without salt to lower it. Don't
forget to dechlorinate your water first. Good luck. Don>
Betta Fins
Hi Don. Thanks for your very fast response. We went out and bought a heater,
test kit and aquarium salt. The only thing we couldn't get was Kanacyn. Should
we try something else? <Many good meds for tail rot. Furan will work.>
The test results are as follows: PH 7.2. Ammonia 0 -0.25 (it was difficult to
determine which. Nitrite 0. Nitrate 10ppm. High Water Range 7.8. <Two tests
for pH. High and low range. One should be off the chart, the other a "readable"
reading. The second is the correct pH>
I treated with 1 Tbs aquarium salt (by reading the instructions on the box - we
have a 6 gallon tank.)<Thought it was a 10?> Rereading your note, it looks as
though I should up the aquarium salt to a higher level. Should I? <Yes, for
treatments you can go as high as one tbls per gallon. Add it slowly, over a day
or so. As the fish heals reduce the salt by doing water changes.>
The thing we did find was that the temp was around 64! Poor thing, I'm surprised
he wasn't covered in icicles! The heater is warming up the tank and it is
currently at around 72. Before I got your reply, I put about 80% of water from
his big tank and added new water, treatment and used filtered water to his old
small bowl. Within about an hour he was a little more chirpy and was defending
his territory when I came too close (much more like his old self). I tested the
water temp in his small bowl and its at 72. <I would put him back in the larger
tank if the temps are still the same. If not, put him and his current water in a
plastic bag and float it in the tank. Twenty minutes or so should do it. Do not
clean your filter. Watch for ammonia or nitrite spikes. Do a water change if you
see either, or when nitrates climb to 20ppm or so. Replace salt in new water. If
he continues to regain his strength with fresh water and salt alone, hold off on
meds. Watch the fins. If they start to regrow, your golden.>
My last question. I had plastic plants in his tank - which I have since removed
as it seems that this could be causing the initial tears on his tail and fins?
<Unlikely> We bought some real plants, should we add them? <Sure. You will need
a light in the hood>
I really want to tell you how much I appreciate your help and guidance. I know
cats but I don't know fish and having you help me out may be the saving grace
for Smooch. <Made me look twice. I have a parrot named Skooch> OK I didn't give
him that name, my daughter did! <I'm the guilty party here. Don>
Thanks
Janice