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FAQs about Light and Lighting for Marine Systems,
Fixture Selection 1
Related Articles:
Marine Light, &
Lighting, Marine
Aquarium Light Fixtures and Canopies,
Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, Anemone
Lighting, Coral System Lighting, Moving
Light Systems,
Related FAQs: Marine System Lighting,
Marine System Lighting 2,
FAQs
3, FAQs 4,
FAQs
5, FAQs 6,
FAQs
7, FAQs 8, FAQs
9, FAQs 10, FAQs
11, FAQs 12,
FAQs
13, FAQs 14, FAQs
15,
FAQs 16,
FAQs 17, FAQs 18,
& FAQs on Marine Lighting: Fixture Selection 2,
Fixture Selection 3, (incandescent,
fluorescent, MH/HQI, LED, natural...), Lamp/Bulb Selection
1, Lamp/Bulb Selection 2, (See
Fluorescent, LED, MH... below),
Installing, Waste Heat Production/Elimination,
UV
Shielding, Measure,
Troubles/Repairs,
By Manufacturer Make/Model: &
Actinic
Lighting, Metal Halide Lighting,
Fluorescent
Lighting, Compact Fluorescent Lighting, Small
System Lighting,
Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting,
|
As with most all "gear" questions, I'd look/ask about on the
various specialized BB's re actual user experiences in a broad stroke... Reef
Frontiers, ReefCentral, Reefs.org... Compare notes re customer service, useful
life, energy consumption per function, alternatives, applications. Bob Fenner |
|
I've been told that you can use VHO fluorescents on tanks up to about
24" deep, but more than that you need metal halides. Does it go the other
way, too? I mean, if you have a tank that is only 12" tall, can you use
regular full-spectrum fluorescents and still have a successful reef? To a large degree yes; though an answer to this sort of query must delve into
a few statements of fact, definitions and qualifiers to be of real use. First,
let’s agree that the intensity of light (number or quanta of photons)
is the principal difference between full-spectrum fluorescents (FSF) and metal
halide (MH) lighting sources. That is, both types produce adequate amounts of
light in necessary and desirable (function and aesthetic) wavelengths to support
and showcase captive reef life. MH is more intense, and thus able to penetrate
to greater depths and provides more light to shallow ones.
Whether this is critical or something you want though depends on two further
major considerations: the type of life you intend to keep, and how much you
want to "push" it. In aquariums as in the wild, there is a broad
range of benefit and tolerance to more light. For example, Corallimorpharians
(coral anemones), most of the photosynthetic gorgonians and soft corals (Order
Alcyonacea) available to hobbyists get along quite well on FSF and compact
fluorescents (CF) in the deepest of hobby aquariums. On the other hand, several
of the popular true or stony corals (Order Scleractinia), do poorly unless
provided either a roost in a shallower setting (with FSF, CF), or MH in greater
depths.
The "pushing" issue is a consideration of how much you want to
enhance your organisms metabolic rates. Lighting, along with nutrient
availability, conscientious filtration, and current are principal inputs to this
physiological "driving". Do you want your Acropora for instance
to grow about as fast as possible? Maybe it will become more spindly, less
colorful, more short-lived as a consequence... Perhaps the cost of water
testing, dosing and amelioration is only "worth it" up to a point.
Each aquarist must ask themselves this question; "Per the species/specimen
and environmental settings, what do I want my livestock to do?"
Obviously all light-affected life needs to be accommodated within its
environmental tolerance; hence you must study and provide at least the minimum
or at most the maximum amounts of light per that species/specimen in your
setting. Such information is invaluable, and often more than just a matter of
reading and chatting with other reef hobbyists and dealers. A tried and true
approach for new introductions is initially placing them further down or away
from the most intense light area, and moving them "toward the light"
as they display a propensity for it.
One last element of this "how much light will do/is too much"
question I’d feel remiss to leave out is the effects of dissolved (mainly
colored) material in the systems water. The cleanest of seawater absorbs,
reflects and diffracts light; more and more with depth. The presence of
suspended solids and various chemicals has an additional, often pronounced
effect on diminishing photo strength. In practical terms, and for more than
light penetration reasons, you want to keep concentrations of this matter to a
minimum; principally through skimming, water changes and possibly the use of
chemical filtrants. This is an area of discussion that merits much more emphasis
and investigation. |
Reef lighting, Hagen Lamps
Bob,
<Hi Frank, Craig here today.>
Good Day ! Is Hagen Powerglo Fluor. Aquarium Lamp:
- Service Life - 9000 hours
- Promotes coral, invertebrate and plant growth
- High intensity
- Photosynthetic deep marine spectrum
- Total illumination for living corals, marine algae and freshwater plants; and
Hagen Marine~Glo Fluor. Aquarium Lamp
- Service Life - 7500 hours
- Promotes marine reef life
- Standard intensity
- Visible actinic blue spectrum
- Simulates deep marine light
- Stimulates marine growth
Are the above two Hagen brand bulbs suitable for a coral reef tank as I noticed
"plant growth" on the product. Thank you for your advice.
Regards, Frank
<Your lighting demands are determined by the type of reef inhabitants you
wish to keep and the depth of your tank. There are many aquarium lights that are
labeled for use in reef aquariums, but there are some caveats to such use, i.e:
lighting requirements of inhabitants and depth. The shallowest of tanks (just a
few inches) can use normal output florescent lamps, any deeper than a few inches
requires high output, then Very High Output, PowerCompact florescent, and the
deepest tanks, metal halides of increasing wattage. Your question needs to be
framed with the required information to come to such a conclusion, i.e: what
inhabitants and how deep? The best all around lighting in my estimation for
shallow to medium depth tanks with a general population is VHO florescent. For
much more information on lighting surf over to WetWebMedia.com, scroll to the
Google search, and type in "lighting". Please write back if you have
any further questions! Craig>
Better than metal halide?
Someone selling hydroponic lights claims they are better than Metal halide
<that is a dubious and inappropriate/inaccurate claim. Lights are
"better" or "worse" simply based upon your invertebrates
needs, not the salesman's needs <wink>. Case in point... if your tank is
24" or deeper, MH lamps may be necessary just to keep moderate light
animals and more so for sps corals and clams. In this regard MH are
"better" as they penetrate whatever deeper with better PAR. In terms
of useful PAR per wattage of power consumption ("efficiency" or
"bang for the buck") ... MH also performs much better than PC or VHO.
However, if you have a shallow tank (under 18") and want to keep soft
corals and mushrooms... MH will be harmful and PC would be very fine! It all
depends on matching your selected inverts needs at depths to the abilities of
the lamps to penetrate with useful light>
and these are the specs he gave me:
Kelvin rating of 6500
over 8,000 Lumens
500 watts of the Bluefish/White Full Spectrum Light
draws 65 watts
PC fluorescent bulb
Would these lights work on a reef tank?
<they would work but will have a decidedly daylight/yellow hue. Most
aquarists don't find this attractive at all... many pretty colors lost in warm
daylight>
I have a 135 gallon I am setting up and was considering 2 or 3 of these instead
of MH.
I would like to keep SPS but
<for sps, these lights will only allow you to keep such corals and clams in
the top 10-12 inches of water approximately... very limiting. MH are MUCH better
for hardcore lighting needs>
I'm concerned about the short and long term expense for MH lights
<MH are far more economical than any other popular light... I could give you
more published data on this than you have time or interest to read <G>.
The bulbs last longer, the light penetrates deeper, the lamps stay truer and all
put out more useful PAR than any other lamps. 10K Ushio or Aqualine for color
and growth>
and a chiller.
<the chiller with a halide is an unfounded legend... the heat they put out is
no worse than VHO fluorescents (both are VERY hot) and all are such a small
contribution if designed properly. Poorly designed stands and canopies and pumps
(submersible powerheads and sump pumps instead of a proper external sump and a
manifold) contribute much more heat>
If I keep mostly soft corals and fish, how many watts per gallon should I have
or is there a better way to determine how much light I should have? Thank you
for advice. Gerardo
<no watts per gallon rule is effective my friend. The needs of the huge
family of soft corals are so varied anyway... you really need to sit down and
make a fairly specific list of the animals you will keep before addressing their
needs. A mixed species garden tank is a nightmare in the long run... beyond
that, decide on Zoantharians... sps... leathers... gorgonians...etc. Anthony>
Re: Better than metal halide?
O.k., I will do a little reading and determine what kinds of corals I will
keep. As far as factors other than lights contributing to heat you mentioned
manifolds. Any advice on what to avoid when designing one? I actually in the
middle of plumbing my tank and had to take a break from those fumes!!
<please use the Google search feature on WWM my friends to peruse the
archives... use words you are interested in of course like
"manifolds". It has been covered many times here and abroad on the
'Net. My apologies for not explaining it over again but we just have such a
useful tool in the WWM archives (a ~300 meg site!!!) and so little time as
volunteers with the extraordinary volume of mail received daily. Best
regards>
Reef Lighting
Hi
I have a 75g glass tank. 48" long 25" deep 18" wide. My lighting
is only 3 40 watts fluorescent lamps which gives me a very low 1.6 watts/gallon,
2 6500K daylight and 1 Blue,
<Very moderate lighting, inadequate for most photosynthetic animals to
generate enough energy for long-term captive care. I am not even militantly
against normal output fluorescents. I actually like them a lot. I use them on my
55 and have seen several 75's setup with them, but my 55 uses four 40 watt lamps
and the 75's I have seen use six 40 watt lamps. The corals are also carefully
selected as coming from low light areas, with low light requirements.>
just the F40B type and planning to achieve at least a 5 watts/gallon. Right now
I have a full blown reef setup. My corals are almost all LPS. I have 2 hammer, 1
frogspawn, 1 torch corals , 2 green elegance
coral, 2 Goniopora , pink long tentacle plate, moon coral, lobed open brain, red
and pink lobed open brain, green open brain, bubble coral and a green star
polyps. My mushrooms colonies are blue spotted, green
fuzzy, pink and green Ricordea and super red mushroom. And 2 blue clams, don’t
know what kind.
<You have some low light animals, except for the notable exceptions of the
clams and long tentacle plate coral, but even none of the low light ones will
survive for two years under your present lighting. And the Goniopora are just
plain awful.>
I have 7 fishes, 1 A. ocellaris, tomato clown, 2 clarkii clown,
<All of these different clownfish is a bad idea. You can sometimes get away
with it with a really large tank (over 125 gallons and 6' long) and by using all
captive raised individuals, but it is still a recipe to problems.>
Scopas tang, yellowtail damsel and domino damsel,
<The domino is another lurking disaster waiting.>
all are getting along well but a bit of aggression between A. ocellaris and
Clarkii but not hurting each other,
<Yet>
just a showing their sides a clicking dance like thing. And a Heteractis Crispa
anemone
<Oh boy! This anemone has no chance under you current lighting. It will be
dead in six months to a year.>
and Coral banded and Cleaner shrimp. All of them are doing well for 4 months but
the clams are only a month in the tank.
<This is way too short of a period to determine if anything is doing well.
You have made some poor choices and/or been advised badly. Give it a year and
you will have a different picture of how well things are going.>
I’m planning on adding new lights to my setup because I know that they are
insufficient. Will a Compact fluorescent lamp be able to maintain the colors of
the clams and SPS type corals since I’m planning to put some Acropora.
<Your clams and most SPS will need to be placed in the top 6-12" of
water and you will need to add an additional 4-55 watt PC's, IMO.>
Or should I go for VHO?
<VHO and PC and about the same intensity. If anything, I would say PC are
slightly more powerful.>
And also will it change the colors of my corals.
<Yes, corals adapt to their lighting (to a point).>
Right now my green open brain is greener with orange stripes than before, my 2
elegance corals which I bought bleached is now dark brown with green and the
other is a beautiful golden brown with green stripes, my anemone is browner and
its tips are greener in fact it is bright green, when I bought it had yellow
tips. My other corals are now looking well and no signs of bleaching and tissue
recession. But I don't know if the clams will maintain its colors but is under
5" of water (very close to the lights). I don't have any tests kits because
except for Strontium and Iodine I don't dose anything.
<You should have pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, and alkalinity test
kits.>
I change 10% of water every 5 days with Tropic Marin to replenish the lost trace
elements and reduce nitrates.
<Excellent schedule>
I don’t have a sump, refugium, or calcium reactor but I do have a quarantine
tank.
<The sump is not a necessity, just a nice place to hide stuff. The calcium
reactor and refugium are very useful tools, but you can do other things to make
them unnecessary.>
My reef tank is just a simple tank with lights over it. I do have lots of
current inside with powerheads and a skimmer of course with my live rocks and
sand bed being the primary filtration.
<My only complaints are with you current lighting, coral selection, and lack
of test kits/information on how you tank is doing.>
The only hard thing to do is putting ice over the tank every 2 to 3 days to
prevent the temperature to rise above 28 C. I maintain the temp at about 25-27
C.
<The use of fans, fewer powerheads (but you need a sump, overflow, and
external return pump instead of PH's), and properly vented canopies and stands
are easier and more reliable than ice.>
Also my coralline algae growth is slow, but I have lots of reddish or I think
its maroon coralline algae and some purple ones. And some Diatoms which the
Astrea snails keep under control.
Can I use purified drinking water for mixing my sea salt?
<I strongly urge all reef tank keepers to use purified water; reverse osmosis
or deionization.>
So which will it be the PC’s or VHO?
<Additional PC's>
And also do I have to acclimate them to the new lighting since I
noticed that they have adapted to my current lighting?
<Yes, please search www.WetWebMedia.com using the Google feature for a very
good piece written by Anthony Calfo on coral acclimation to lighting.>
I always visit your website because it has a lot of information about reef
keeping. Great site.
Thanks and "MABUHAY" (its means long live and success)
<And you do the same. -Steven Pro>
Lighting
Hi Guys,
I need some help on lighting. I would like to know if I can mix VHO & CF.
<Yes>
I currently have A 75g flat back hex tank. Due to configuration, I cannot fit
(4) 4ft. bulbs. I already have a 3 ft CF fixture with (2) 96w bulbs. I would
like to add (2) 4ft VHO fixtures which would up my total wattage to 412w. Is
this an o.k. set up?
<Sure. I would use full spectrum power compact lamps with actinic VHO's. I
like the actinic VHO's better than the PC/CF ones.>
Are there any coral I could not keep?
<There will always be corals you cannot keep. Any given tank will be better
at satisfying one particular group/type of photosynthetic animals.>
Are clams still out of the question?
<May not be a great choice as the hardiest clams grow rather large, over a
foot in length. This tank is rather small for them to fit and there is always a
concern for them closing abruptly and shooting water out of the tank.>
Thanks in advance. Rocco
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>Lighting II
Hi Steven,
Thanks for the quick response. I more thing. You suggested (2) full spectrum CF
with (2) VHO actinic. I can only position these so that 2 full sp CFL are toward
the front or the back of the tank. Same with the VHO. Is this ok? If so which
toward front and which toward back?
Thanks again. Rocco
<I tend to place my actinics at the front of the tank. -Steven Pro>
Lighting III
Anthony, You have been very kind to me, answering these lighting questions
must be redundant and frustrating.
<really not at all...glad anyone cares to know my opinion>
What I neglected to tell you is that I have had this tank up and running for
about 15 months now. I have PC lights currently (CSL 2x96 white, 2x96 actinics)
and am keeping softies (mushrooms, xenia, leathers.)
<very nice...appropriate lighting to for many of the softies>
I thought that if I could upgrade to MH I could give the softies to a friend and
take a stab and the LPS and clams.
<hmmm... The most LPS and clams (especially derasa and Hippopus) can live
under your current lighting just fine (bulbs have been changed recently, or do
so please)>
I really do enjoy the SPS (cats paw, certain colors of Acropora [sp?] cup &
scroll corals) but I can do without now that I know the trouble I am asking for
by mixing the three.
<yes...very much agreed. For starters, many LPS are just too staggeringly
aggressive and many so the SPS are finicky about consistent water quality>
So here it is. I will order 2x175 watt MH with the PFO ballast, use Ushio's 10K
bulbs.
<is this one of the electronic ballasts? If so, you might save your money
unless the lightweight is a big appeal. Recent studies have shown that the
marketing claims of the electronic ballast folks are borderline fraudulent (more
light, less electricity, etc). At best, it will take five or more years to
recoup the investment. I wouldn't bother... a $50 standard ballast will work as
well. Watts is Watts, as they
Then I will order 2x55 watt VHO actinics using Ice Cap 430 ballast.
<very nice... I like Ice Cap and respect their customer service. But do you
mean 110 watt 4' VHO's?>
Can you help me understand all that is needed for this setup? I'm sure I could
call the e-tailors and ask what is needed, but I have a feeling they will only
hear dollar signs in my voice and bleed me dry.
Ok, for the MH I would need the ballast + wiring, I am assuming a Mongol socket?
I like the look of the spider reflector (that or I will paint the hood white.
not all that sure what is best) and went on Sanjays (sp?) web site and read
about this reflector. Do you know of it? It comes with a mogul socket, is it
universal and will fit the Ushio bulb and my wiring?
<yes... overall I really like Sanjay's report and agree>
On to the VHO, the bulb 48", the length of my tank. I would need the bulbs,
the ballast + wiring, and end caps. What I don't understand is how it is hooked
up to the inside of my hood. I read about acrylic racks or stand offs, do you
know which on would be best using a reflector such as the spider? Or what is
best for a canopy?
<yes... you'll need the VHO end caps for certain, and the acrylic standoffs
are convenient and worth the price. If a ready made hardness is available, do
buy it unless you are comfortable reading the wiring diagram for DIY (easy and
color coded, but not my preference). And as far as the canopy, I'd be inclined
to use a reflector that lines the entire canopy to encompass the VHO's and
halides. I haven't used the spider reflector to know if that is convenient but I
suspect it can be made to do so. Perhaps Sanjay would be kind enough to
enlighten us both on it. Do advise me if you discover it is so>
Dang, I didn't mean for this to be such a long letter :( Sorry about that. Thank
you so very much for you patients and all of the help you have offered me. I
hope I can find some way to pay you back! Robert
<one word: beer... OK, more than one word: no thanks necessary...really my
pleasure. Kind regards, Anthony>
<Sanjay... Anthony Calfo here mentoring on Bob Fenner's WWM. I'm forward
this fellow's message along for your input if you can share a moment. The
question posed to you is about a good commercial or DIY reflector for 2 halides
and a pair of VHO in the same canopy? The lamp recommendation is stated below
influenced by your study in part. Reply back to this address if you can. Thanks
kindly, my friend. Anthony Calfo>
Lighting IV
Hey Anthony, this is the last email! I swear! :-)
<no worries... happy to be of service. Just sitting here eating some tasty
special brownies that Bob sent me before leaving and I feel very relaxed. I feel
as though I could just sit here for hours answering e-mail... or at least
staring at the monitor... hey, what are these cool herbs sprinkled throughout my
brownie? Boy do I have the munchies... sure glad I have these brownies here.
Man... I love Pink Floyd tunes>
I am changing the PFO idea to Blueline I think they have the e-ballast. Sounds
better!
<hold on there Tonto!... have you looked at the comparative studies of ALL of
the MH lamps including the above mentioned? You REALLY need to take a closer
look. And as far as the ballast goes... prelims suggest that the claims of
electronic ballast manufacturers are difficult to support. Some say not even
close to being worth the money. My advice stands as before and was quite
deliberate in brand recommendation: for 10K, Ushio or AB and for 6500K the
Iwasaki. A regular ballast will be fine. This combination will serve you for 2-3
years before you even have to change a bulb!>
>I haven't used the spider reflector to know if that is convenient but I suspect it can be made to do so. Perhaps Sanjay would be kind >enough to enlighten us both on it. Do advise me if you discover it is so>
I'm sorry to say but Sanjay does not have an e-mail address on his web site. I
have yet to see if the spider reflector can be used with VHO actinics and MH. I
hope so! My canopy is 10" tall and the spider comes down 4.5" I think
as long as the VHO is lower then that I will be fine. Just keep my eye on salt
creep. If you know if Sanjay has a web address posted somewhere could you let me
know?
<I do have his address, my friend... but allow me to pass this message along
for his reply>
I would like to be able to ask him this question. If it does not work, what are
your thoughts on painting the canopy top white? Or would I be better off going
to HD and getting flashing cut to fit?
Thank you again!! Robert
<I'm not at all thrilled with the painting idea... but perhaps a polished
aluminum reflector. Lets hear what Sanjay has to say. He has a great engineering
mind and time spent on this subject in research. Kindly, Anthony Calfo>
Best/Better Reflectors for reef light canopies
Sorry, I was out of town for last few days.
<Sanjay... no worries. Thank you my friend for taking the time to share your
opinion>
Of the premade reflectors, the 2 most popular are the spider light and the PFO
reflectors. If you have problems with getting them into a hood, the next best
option is to make your own by buying sheets of the reflective material and
installing them in your hood. Champion (Lighting and Supply Company) sells
different sizes and there may be others on the web who do as well.
White paint is not a good solution, neither is the flashing from Home
Depot. The reflective material should be anodized to prevent
corrosion. Using these reflective materials (most of them are the
Everbrite by Alcoa) you can easily get 20-40% more light into your tank.
Sanjay.
<wonderful... I'll be sure to pass this along. Thanks again very kindly,
Anthony Calfo>
Lighting and Reflectors
Anthony-
Thank you so much for the email from Sanjay! I feel quite honored to have both
of your input into my lighting system. :)
<it is my honour that anyone should care to know my opinion>
I just ordered my 2x175 watt MH PFO dual, & 110 watt VHO actinic IcaCap430.
The MH are Ushio 10K and the Actinic lights are 03 URI (or IUR, RUI, IRU.. damn
my dyslexic mind!)
<correct...URI, outstanding quality fluorescents>
I ordered the spider reflectors. My original question was not if the Spider
reflector was my best choice, but if I can use the Spider Reflector with the VHO
bulbs below it.
<I do recall... my apologies... I did not have enough experience to comment
and Sanjay may have overlooked it>
No worries, in 5-7 working days I will find out if it can work. In any event I
know now what will be my best second choice if it does fail to work.
<please do let us learn from your experience>
Thanks for your time and effort! It has made difference for the positive for my
future coral. Robert
<you made the difference for caring... continue to do so. Anthony>
|
Lighting SPS and Maxima Clams
All and extra info is appreciated. I have found out from numerous sources that
440watt VHO is not enough to support sps and maxima clams for my 75gal
21"deep tank. Is this true?
<borderline leaning toward true depending on the species of sps kept and the
depth in the tank at which you keep them>
If so I will invest in metal halides. Do you
suggest 2 250watt bulbs or something different?
<way too much light unless you are keeping the most delicate/difficult and
demanding shallow water species. If instead you are happy with hardier Montipora
species and common Acroporas (brown, green, tan with some colored tips) then you
will be safer and happier with 2-3 175 watt lamps (10K Ushio or AB recommended
if not 3-150 watt 6500 k lamps). Your tank isn't deep enough to warrant 250 watt
lamps for fear of bleaching any LPS and soft coral you may want to keep as
well>
Do I need to supplement with fluorescents or is the metal halides more than
enough?
<more than enough blue in the MH lamps... add only for your aesthetics>
Do I need to hang it from the ceiling or rest it on a canopy?
<better light from a horizontal mount in a canopy... pendants focus/waster
light>
All and extra info is appreciated.
<best regards, my friend... Anthony Calfo>
Lighting Questions
I have asked around about lighting for my 75gal soon to be reef with very
few sps, a clam, an anemone, and a few soft corals with small fishes like clowns
and cardinals and so forth. When I do decide to go reef I must upgrade to MH,
pc, or VHO. People say MH is too much heat and pc does not have actinic bulbs so
go with icecap VHO's which is what I plan to do? Do you agree?
<Not really. I like VHO's for some applications, but for clams and SPS I
would recommend MH's.>
Will VHO's give me enough for them?
<You will need at least four, but may not be enough light for all and not
cost effective, replacing four lamps every 6-9 months versus a MH's every
year.>
Do you suggest a canopy with VHO's?
<Sure>
What is the difference between a retrofit and a hood?
<A retrofit is something to insert into an existing canopy. A hood is a
complete lighting system already mounted.>
I already have a 48" long full hood made by all-glass. Can it fit?
<Possibly, measure inside to be sure. You need to factor in length of lamps
plus end caps.>
Lastly, which model do you suggest for me?
<Icecap 660 for VHO's>
Any and all additional info on the topic is greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot
<I would seriously consider MH's. Two 175 watt Aqualine-Buschke lamps would
be very good for your 75 housing SPS and clams. -Steven Pro>
VHO & MH <Anthony>
Hey Anthony!
I just thought I would let you know that I got my dual 175watt MH and 110watt
VHO up today. It look amazing!!
<outstanding!>
I have the spider reflectors with the MH bulbs (so easy to install, full of
quick connects and little power tool use) and the VHO bulbs below.
<good to hear... many folks are reassured by this>
The only problem is that my VHO is rather low. Like about 4" above the
water.
<not a problem at all!!! On the contrary, some folks would argue that 4"
is actually still too far off of the water for fluorescents. I personally would
not go any farther away. A luxmeter would put this all in perspective for you...
fluorescent light intensity is not focused and is significantly reduced as you
move even slightly higher up>
The spider reflector comes down about 5" and my canopy is 10".
How often would you advice my wiping down the VHO bulbs? I am thinking salt
creep can be a problem with them being close to the water.
<really only a problem if you have snapping bubbles and hopefully you won't
have too much if that (bubbles irritate some corals)>
Would once or twice a month do?
<sounds reasonable...we'll just have to see what it takes after setup to keep
them always clean>
I do my water change twice a month, and often times I get lazy so it is more
often just once a month so I thought that it might be good to do as part of my
monthly to-do's.
<exactly!>
Just want to let you know how it turned out and to thank you once again. I will
be using a refractor meter this weekend to see if the VHO bulbs disturb the MH,
but I think it won't be anything to worry about.
Sincerely, Robert
<we appreciate the update my friend and will pass it along to others for
consideration/reassurance. Thanks kindly, Anthony>
Lighting
Yet another lighting question. I have a 120 gallon tank. The water is
24" deep and it is currently a FOWLR. After much research I think have
decided to go with compact fluorescent. I must say it is not easy to make a
decision in this area. Money seems to be a limiting factor. I would someday like
to have sps and clams. I know that these are light loving creatures. For now am
I better off going with 4-55W compacts and adding more later or should I start
out with 2-96W compacts and add on to that. Or should I go with some other type
of lighting all together. Thank you.
<For SPS and clams in a 120 wide, you will need four 96 watt PC lamps.
Complete hoods that hold these cost about $500. Or you could use two 175 watt MH
pendant fixtures with Aqualine-Buschke lamp upgrades for about $520. With the
initial costs being fairly similar, the cost of replacement lamps also similar
(two at $90 each versus four at $45 each, prices from Champion Lighting &
Supply), I would prefer the MH's. I think you would get better results (growth,
color, etc.) and a slight saving in electricity. -Steven Pro><<... the new
math? Add 'em up again Steve. RMF... 192 vs. 350 watts...>>
Lighting
Mr. Fenner,
<Steven pro this afternoon.>
Currently, I have a 40-gallon reef with an assortment of corals
including torch, frogspawn, Goniopora, colt, galaxy, with a few different polyps
as well. I am going to be moving the system from the 40-gallon to my new
75-gallon (which is empty right now). My corals are absolutely flourishing, and
I would like to keep it this way (obviously). My lighting at this time includes
a 36" blue actinic and a 120w power compact. But, as you are well aware,
the 75-gallon is 4" taller.
My question: what type of lighting do you recommend for my 75-gallon in order to
emulate the current lighting in my 40-gallon? If I use 3"+ of substrate,
can I use a power compact (300w)? This would be 4 watts per gallon. Or, do you
think it is still too deep, and would require metal halides (possibly two 175w,
10,000K)? As is always the case, I'm trying to keep costs down. I'm at a
fork-in-the-road, and I'm not sure what to do. -Sam
<For your corals, MH's are not necessary. PC lighting will work just fine. I
think you wish to use 6 55 watt PC lamps for a total of 330 watts or maybe 3 96
watt lamps? Either should be just fine. You may also wish to consider VHO's.
Three 110 watt lamps would be good, too. -Steven Pro>
Question of Marine Lights
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro this morning.>
I am planning to set up a marine tank. I have been reading around and
am currently deliberating on whether to include a MH in my lighting
arrangement. My tank will be a 72" x 30" x 30". Bottom substrate
will be about 6" deep (so effective water depth is only 24") and I am
planning (or maybe "dreaming" will be a better word) on putting some
green star polyps right on the substrate. I read that green star polyp need good
light and current.
My question is do I need a MH lamp for this setup? I am worried about
the amount of light penetrating down to the substrate. The LFS is
pushing me for MH, which I suspect is heavily motivated by their price
tags. Locally I can easily get 30" ballast for 2 PC tubes, each PC
tubes is rated 36W, and available in 72000K and 11000K spectrums. Since each PC
ballast cost less than 10% of the MH, I would rather go for a few PC ballasts
*IF* MH is not needed. What do you think?
<I think your best solution is the MH's because of your tank depth and width.
Three 175 watt or three 250 watt 10,000k Aqualine-Buschke lamps would work well
depending on your other desired photosynthetic creatures.>
Thanks in advance & BTW I must tell you that your contributions at WWM
forums is a godsend. -Edwin
<Thank you, Steven Pro.>
This is driving me mad! Marine Lighting Choices
Hello Mr. Fenner,
How I wish you could have a reef aquarium book out!
<Am hopeful to have this work out someday soon as well>
I have learned so much about my initial setup and which fish to choose from TCMA.
How to properly care for them, and the tank it's self. I am just going crazy
when it comes to coral and there needs.
I have been to many web site, have many books that I have read and am currently
reading. Nothing is helping me when it comes to lighting my tank. 48x18x22 and a
10" hood. I have been on many message boards (just discovered yours) asking
people what sort of light I would need to keep SPS & clams but that would
not fry my bubble corals and open brains. And what other few LPS I want to get.
I asked EricB., Dr. Ron, and many people on reef central, reefs.org, my LFS,
my reefing friends and looking through books. Everyone (9-10) is advising me to
get (EricB. and most of the people on the message boards) 2x250 watt MH with
2x110 watt VHO. There are people who have kept LPS under these lights (same
height) for years and have good growth and color. Would it be a good amount of
light or to much?
<Too much for me... If you were doing an experiment in "the absolute
most" growth you could get from photosynthesizing marine life... and
coupled a calcium reactor, likely controllers, careful feeding... then I might
go with this much light intensity... But... if it were me I'd drop to 175 Watt
MH's and half the actinics in VHOs or better PCs...>
They said (and I see the logic) that as long as my LPS are near to the DSB and
that my lights are raised so far above the waters surface I will be ok. This is
killing me. I would love to know your opinion.
I read through your Q&A and in one post you said that for a tank that is
23" tall the 2x250 would work best.
<Yes... but with your raised sand bed, your water level will be
17-18">
Then in another post for someone who had a 23" tall tank you said it would
be best to use 175 watt MH with VHO actinics.
I could really use you knowledge. Thank you kindly!
Robert
<I'll go for what's behind door/choice number 2! Be chatting. Bob F>This is driving me mad! Marine Lighting (Anthony's turn)
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
How I wish you could have a reef aquarium book out!
<I wondered that for years until I learned that he did indeed write a
"Conscientious Reef Aquarist" book that got bought but never printed
by the publisher... no worries though... Bob has been furiously generating and
cataloguing a lot of such information on this WWM site... typing on two and
three computers at the same time... well, almost <wink>>
I have learned so much about my initial setup and which fish to choose from TCMA.
How to properly care for them, and the tank it's self. I am just going crazy
when it comes to coral and there needs.
I have been to many web site, have many books that I have read and am currently
reading.
<OK... shameless plug for my new reef book... see Bob's review on this
site http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bkcorlproprev.htm
or my site for samples/endorsements (www.readingtrees.com). Really, have I no
shame ?! But seriously, I put a lot of heart into it and it is written in a very
straight-forward conversational tone. A good bit of info if I may say so too at
450 pages>
Nothing is helping me when it comes to lighting my tank. 48x18x22 and a 10"
hood. I have been on many message boards (just discovered yours) asking people
what sort of light I would need to keep SPS & clams but that would not fry
my bubble corals and open brains.
<that is indeed a tough and unnatural mix...never to be found on a reef and
long term may prove to be difficult for you without some very creative (and
attractive) rockscaping to create ledges and overhangs for diffusing light for
the deepwater LPS corals and Zoantharians for example>
And what other few LPS I want to get.
I asked Erick B., Dr. Ron, and many people on reef central, reefs.org, my LFS,
my reefing friends and looking through books. Everyone (9-10)is advising me to
get (Erick B. and most of the people on the message boards) 2x250 watt MH with
2x110 watt VHO. There are people who have kept LPS under these lights (same
height) for years and have good growth and color. Would it be a good amount of
light or to much?
<I'm inclined to say too much. Truthfully, my advice would be to pick one
thing and do it well... spare the unnatural allelopathy and aggression of this
unusual mix. Just because it works for some folks for even a couple of years
doesn't make it right, convenient or even replicable by you. The natural
lifespan of many coral is to be measured in decades... and that will be a moot
point in a crowded or inappropriate reef tank>
They said (and I see the logic) that as long as my LPS are near to the DSB and
that my lights are raised so far above the waters surface I will be ok. This is
killing me. I would love to know your opinion.
<you definitely have a different perspective from me. Keep in mind that my
opinion and experience is influenced by my vocation as a commercial coral farmer
with regard for absolute parameters of health and especially growth (without
concern for aesthetic presentation). You may be willing to compromise growth and
lifespan to enjoy a mixed garden reef aquarium. It was my business to avoid
that. Both positions are valid but at some point we must concede that some
compromises do not serve the greater good>
I read through your Q&A and in one post you said that for a tank that is
23" tall the 2x250 would work best. Then in another post for someone who
had a 23" tall tank you said it would be best to use 175 watt MH with VHO
actinics.
I could really use you knowledge. Thank you kindly!
<ultimately... my advice would be to only use 2-250 watt halides if you
intend to have your tank decidedly dominated by shallow water SPS corals and
clams with very few mid to low light animals. Else, you will find yourself
spending too much on electricity for animals suffering under it. The VHO
supplements are an entirely different matter. Although love the color of VHO's,
spectral analysis of most every halide on the market has demonstrated that the
lamps already have excessive blue peaks in the spectrum. More blue light is
pointless for coral health and simply makes a very nice aesthetic affect when
the halides are off. Do look into the published works of Sanjay Yoshi and Dana
Riddle on halide lighting. Short story though... Aqualine and Ushio 10K bulbs
are highly recommended among lamp choices. And if you can use the 150 watt
fixtures... Iwasaki 6500 k bulbs are the absolute best all things considered
(lamp life, spectral sway, color rendition, etc). And remember...easy on the
blue lights if you intend to keep shallow water sps corals. Kind regards,
Anthony Calfo>
Robert
Re: This is driving me mad! <Anthony> Marine Lighting Choices
Hello again Anthony
<greetings, my friend>
I went to your web site and checked out your book. I will place an order in for
it tomorrow.
<thank you kindly... but the advice is free, do ask away!>
I am now more confused then ever and am in need for some more guidance.
I had no idea that mixing coral like LPS & SPS (as I have seen in so many
tanks) is such a major mistake for the health of the coral.
<this is news to most of us as aquarists. Only in the last decade have we
begun to see enough aquariums set up for extended periods of time (5-10+ yrs) to
have a glimpse of what the long term effects of coral aggression might be.
Reefkeeping really only began to draw attention in popular literature in the mid
1980's and arguably did not begin to really catch fire until the early 1990's.
So even by 1995, let's say, there were still very few tanks set up for more than
five years. Now enough time has begun to pass here in the USA that we have more
than a few aquarium displays to look to that are documented for more than a
decade.>
I don't want a pretty tank and then a year or two later have everything die on
me.
<yes... a reality for many aquarists as a couple of years go by in a crowded
or inappropriate tank and the flaws catch up (mysterious deaths from slowly
underfed coral and those poisoned by competitors). But let me assure you that
although I do indeed have somewhat of a purist/hardliner approach to reef
aquariology, I readily admit that you can indeed enjoy a mixture of so-called
"unnatural" tank mates like LPS and SPS in very good health. Its just
that we cannot be lulled into thinking its a free for all. All in moderation, of
course.>
I am not a cruel man, just ignorant and trying to learn.
<as we all are everyday>
I didn't mean to come of as if I am willing to risk the health of my charges.
<not at all... as aquarists we are indeed empathetic and passionate folk. And
your quest for knowledge reflects your good intent as it should be>
Now having reconsidered much I will ask if it would be acceptable to mix LPS
with calms. I am quite enamored with the electric blue Max's.
<there will be a compatible combination for almost anything that you like...
Tridacnids occur in very shallow water to depths below 45 feet (well below that
for some, as I understand it). If you elect to have a shallow reef theme, then
enjoy the blue T. crocea and T. maxima. If you opt for a deeper themed tank (LPS
like bubbles, fox, purple tip elegance, brown hammers/octopus, red open brains,
Cynarina buttons, etc) then the hardy T. derasa or better yet Hippopus species
of clams would do nicely>
Could I keep them (on the sand bed) under 2x175 watt with say..2x100w VHO
actinics?
<most clams indeed yes>
Or would the blue light do nothing for the clams.
<right...the intense halides are the ticket>
I would like a good amount of blue so that my LPS can fluoresce more. is that
wrong as well? :)
<not wrong at all my friend... just an aesthetic preference. But there is
more than enough blue in modern halide lamps to satisfy your coral. Keep
yourself happy by having a strong VHO blue actinic or two on a separate ballast
for the lovely fluorescent effect (even leaving them on an hour before and after
the daylights to give a cool dusk dawn effect)... but don't expect them to
contribute much to coral growth without daylight. They are to be enjoyed for
aesthetics. Although 250 watt halides may be appropriate for the colorful sps
corals that you think you might like to have...such species are really are a
great challenge for a new aquarist until you get the hang of the
calcium/alkalinity dynamic and how to control it with consistency (other issues
to). As a "newbie"... you'll have a much better start with hardy and
colorful soft corals. They are much more forgiving in general. I'd suggest that
you pick two 175 watt Ushio 10K lamps or two 150 watt Iwasaki 6500K lamps to
serve as your primary lighting. Trust me my friend... for reasons that will be
revealed to you in due time, resist all stony coral (SPS and LPS) for at least
the first six months if not one year. Plenty of great soft corals that will
serve you well through your growing pains>
Thank you kindly Anthony. I hope you can forgive this silly newbie!
Robert
<nothing to forgive at all, good sir. I'm grateful that you are considerate
of your future charges enough to ask questions and that you care to know my
opinion at all. Also, do look into a local aquarium society too... its a great
place to get honest advice from experienced folk who have nothing to sell you
<wink>. Kindly, Anthony>
Re: This is driving me mad! Marine Lighting Choices
Hello again Mr. Fenner
Thank you so much for the quick reply, not only by yourself but from Anthony as
well. I can't wait for your reef book to come out! It is a good thing that you
have such a informative web site to go to for those like me who are waiting for
your book.
<A great outlet, device, tool>
I learned much from your response. I am rethinking my plan and will downgrade
from my original idea (2x250wMH) and maybe go with 2x175..the actinics and their
wattage are still up in the air. I thought 2x110VHO but I am guessing that will
be an overkill.
<Yes, more than necessary, useful>
I just want my LPS to fluoresce really well and have enough light for all kinds
of clams.
I will do more research. :)
Thank you kindly.
Robert
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
|
Lunar lighting <Anthony?>
Hey WWM Crew! I am hoping to speak with Anthony about
a point that was made in his book about lunar
lighting.
<I have never tried illuminating the moon but I'm willing to try>
I am in a quandary about how to simulate moonlight or
the sun/moon cycle in my tank. I do believe that it
makes a difference for the positive to do this in a
reef tank.
<yes... I agree. Some researchers down in Texas believe they can influence
spawning cycles in part by this. It may nit be a huge influence... but is very
cool aesthetically if nothing else>
I have found many products online. The Aquacontroller
II sounds sweet yes I have the money.. heehee I have my
reef emergency fund and general mad-money stash) and
something called the moon strip http://www.petsolutions.com/cgi-bin/cgiitmls?m=ThisP&p=1048.140000&l=1
Here is a link to that.
I also have found this device
http://www.fishtankshop.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=2_13_19
Called moon beams.
I wonder what matters more, the cycle of the moon
across the tank? The monthly/yearly cycle? Or the
style of lighting penetrating the tank? I hope that
makes sense.
<yes... I think. I think the most important factor is the rhythmic
attenuation (quarter, then half, then 3/4, the full moon and then waning
again)>
I know you recommend a blue bulb moved across the tank
as a cheep alternative,
<not moved necessarily, just waxing and waning>
but I wonder would you could recommend if it were carte blanch. :)
<the moon strip does not say that it is automated... it sounds like it is
literally a $179.00 actinic light bulb that can be dimmed (?!?). Yes, it states
that the spectrum does not sway with dimming, but big deal. Who said that the
moon only imparts a light wavelength of 484nm? It may be a fine product, but I
don't think it is necessary. Now the moon beams for $79.00... I saw them at the
MMC conference in Michigan a couple of weeks ago. Looked interesting, but
again... still needs attenuation. Still an overpriced light bulb. Until someone
proves that fish/coral respond to a specific type of simulated moonlight (484nm,
blue LED, whatever) I'm content with the understanding that reef animals respond
predominantly to the waxing and waning of a weak nocturnal lamp and that means
that a $2 blue party bulb in a book lamp plugged into an $8 dimmer switch is
good enough for me. As cool as I think the idea is... moonlight may not be a
tremendous stimulus. There are much better ways to get fish/coral to breed (like
HUFA rich foods coincident with an appropriate photoperiod from their natural
habitat (like springtime on the GBR)>
Thanks!!
<always welcome, Anthony>
MH vs. PC
Hi Bob:
I recently purchased a house :) and am finding out that I have larger bills
to pay,
<Maybe only in the (annual) short term. Do see your tax accountant re your
withholding, other possible sources of "not-paying"... i.e. taxes>
including utility :( In contemplating options to reduce energy
consumption, the focus naturally comes to the reef tank lighting system.
<Yes. Often largest electrical consuming item>
I
currently use two 175w 12000K Sunburst MHs over my 60g tank (which would be
upgraded to either a 91g or a 120g, pending the recovery of the economy),
and all sorts of water/air cooling accessories. I understand that PC would
lower all costs considerably, but switching from MH to PC does require extra
investment (bulbs, ballasts, sockets, bulb holders, etc.)
<Yes to all. Well-stated>
, I would like to
know how long before I can recover this investment.
<Hmm, pretty simple mathematical equation... Watts consumed are charged by
kwh (kilowatt-hour)... for instance you have 2 X 175 Watt MH's now... Versus the
same multiplication for the proposed CFs plus their upfront cost, and a factor
for the relative replacement of lamps, fixtures going forward...>
Do you know where I can find updated, and preferably detailed, information
about operating cost differences between MH and PC of the same wattage, for
example, 2x175w MHs vs. 4x96w PCs?
<If "wattage" (actually consumed) is about the same, then cost of
electrical operation is about the same... minus costs of running cooling gear,
and factoring in (once again) the relative costs of replacement, purchase...>
All the articles that I have found are either outdated (2+ years old), dealing
with the same lighting type (MH vs.
MH, etc.), or merely stating the advantages of PC over MH on the very high
level, for example, lower operating cost, temperature, etc. While this
easily help a new hobbyist determine the type of lighting he/she needs, it
does not assist me in making the right decision.
Thanks.
Chia
<For many, probably most applications, the "cost/benefit" in making
these switches is made up in a few years (2-3)... But, you can "do the
math" here as well. Bob Fenner>
Lighting Question
Hello Bob, and thanks in advance for your help! You are providing an awesome
service that is very much appreciated!!
<Very glad to hear, understand this>
My question is fairly basic. I am in the process of setting up a new 100 gal
(60"Lx18"Wx20"H) saltwater tank FOWLR (and invertebrates such as
1-2
anemones, stars, urchins, shrimps) NOT planning on keeping any hard or soft
corals or clams. I have been reading information on this and other sites as
well as talking to my LFS personnel however still feel a little confused on
one or two points.
<Easily done...>
Specifically, my question is around lighting. I am trying to decide between
VHO lighting and Power Compacts. I have read that PC's offer more Lux per
watt when compared to other technologies including VHO.
<Yes, this is so>
The example used was
that a 55 watt Compact bulb is roughly as bright as a 95 watt VHO tube. If
this is true, does the 3-5 watts per gallon "rule of thumb" still
apply, or
does it become some lesser number if PC's are used.
<Less for the "same, equivalent" use...>
Considering what I am
interested in keeping, which would yield the best results, a 420 watt VHO
system (3-140 w bulbs) or a 220 watt PC system (w/ 4-55 w bulbs). Based on
my price-related research, either of these two systems could be had for
roughly $300 each which fits my budget.
<Ah, sounds like you've been doing your research, shopping. These two
choices/alternatives are close in terms of initial cost, and function... so
close that the esthetic part of the equation (what looks better to you) becomes
a deciding factor between the two. I am actually more inclined to the compact
fluorescents here due to the depth of the tank... but would easily go with the
VHOs if this were a planted aquarium (freshwater) or one that no high-light
intensity life was intended for (e.g. the anemones)>
My other question is with regard to the length of the lighting. Very simply,
is it necessary to cover the full 60 inches (i.e., VHO) or would a 48 inch
bulbs/fixtures (i.e., Power Compact) be sufficient?
<The four footers are fine... in my opinion/experience better to have the
"brightness" dropping off at the edge/s of systems. Bob Fenner>
Calvin
Re: Marine lighting
Sorry to bother you so much, but for a 180 would you recommend 3 175 or 250
MH with supplemental VHO over 6x96 pc's?
<Hmm, is this your "first time out" with a reef system? If you're
tending to high-light intensity users like many SPS corals, tridacnid clams, the
three 175 watt metal halides with actinic VHO's would be my choice... but if
not, and/or if this is going to be a "starter system" for you, the
power compacts will more than do...>
This has been the hardest and most
confusing part of planning this setup. Is the electricity bill really that
much more?
<Not "that much" in the stated case... you can easily calculate the
proposed wattage consumed, lamp replacement, initial costs comparison>
FWIW the light will be going over an acrylic tank with a 29 gal
sump so would I need a chiller also? Buying a chiller is what I am trying to
avoid.
<You might well find you need a chiller going with the 175 W MH's...
definitely 250 watt units... Do please read over the many FAQs stored on our
site re marine lighting... starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/morefaqsmarsyslgtg.htm
Bob Fenner>
Greg
Upgrading reef lighting.
Hi Bob.
Thank God for your website! I live out in the woods of Michigan and there
are no good LFS anywhere. I went to Grand Cayman about 3 weeks ago for a
week of dives in hopes to solve my reef lighting dilemma.
<Oh ho!>
If anything, I
confused myself even more. The light at 30-40ft depth seemed awful dim on a
bright sunny day with about 90-100 ft. visibility.
<It is... relatively>
So I thought to myself I
didn't need anymore light.
<Mmm, an artifact of our subjective reality... our eyes are amazing
tools/devices for "auto-dimming"...>
But I know it's not enough. A bit about my
setup: 90 gal.(48Lx18Wx24H) display, 200lbs. LR. 72 gal sump and 75 gal
refugium. I have had great success (believe it or not) with my single 10k
250W MH Light for the past 5 years.
<I believe it>
About a year ago I started to collect
SPS and clams, but I had to put them at the very top of the water column for
them to do well. Now I want to spread them out over my whole tank, so Santa
Clause (my girlfriend) is going to bring me some reef lighting! I was
looking at two different units.
<You lucky pug>
CSL PC 4-96W 2-6700k Daylight bulbs and 2-7100k Blue
Or
CSL PC 4-65W with the same bulbs as above.
My livestock is: SPS, Max Clams, a couple of Anemones, LPS, and a bunch of
mushrooms.
Here is/are my question(s) is the 4-96W with my 250W MH too much light?
<No... this would be my choice>
Is
it better to go with the 4-65W and a 250W MH?
<Oh! Even better... for looks, function>
or Possibly two MH and 4-65W?
<You'd likely have to fit a chiller into your budget... I would likely
"center" the one MH... or if it looked better, move it over to the
left or right...>
With my 10k 250MH witch bulbs would you choose? I only want to buy new
lights once. So any advice you have would be worth gold.
<Mmm, a tough one... the Iwasaki likely>
Hope to run into you in Fiji in June '02
<Sounds great. Stay tuned and perhaps our itineraries can be organized to do
this! Bob Fenner>
Warmest Regards,
Brad StefankoRe: Upgrading reef lighting.
Thanks for your help with my reef lighting problem. I took your advice and
I will go with the CSL 4-65W unit with my current 250W MH.
<Think this will be best>
Now is the CSL set up better for Clams and SPS than say 4-24in. VHO IceCap
set up with my 250W MH?
<Both are worthy units... quite similar... the Custom SeaLife units
incrementally better. Bob Fenner>
Thank again! :)
Brad
|
Lighting for a Marine Fish Set Up - normal output fluorescent T8 bulb lig...
A little about lighting options. I have narrowed my lighting options for
the main tank to normal output (NO) fluorescent bulbs and power compact (PC)
bulbs. I know that you really like the PC bulbs, but I am wondering if can
get away with the less expensive NO bulbs given the fact that the main tank
will focus on fish.
<Absolutely. Whatever intensity and looks will suit you will be fine with
your fishes... Do get/use timers for the lighting as regularity of light/dark
cycles is important.>
NO lighting. The T8 bulbs by Sylvania and ZooMed look interesting to me,
for their greater energy efficiency than T12 bulbs and low cost. I was
thinking that I could illuminate the 125 to 150 gallon tank with two 48"
5500K or 6000K bulbs, two 10,000K bulbs, and two 48" Actinic bulbs. At 36
watts per bulb, this arrangement would provide a total of 216 watts for an
affordable initial outlay and low replacement costs. This arrangement might
also provide a wide spectral variation for the overall tank look.
<I'd leave out the actinics... the "blue" is not of use, nor
attractive for your setting, IMO... and do look into the Sylvania Chroma lamps
at Home Depot, Lowe's...>
Power compact lighting. In a previous email message, you suggested looking
into CustomSeaLife PC set-ups. After looking at some pricing information
for PC bulbs, I thought that I would light the tank with two 96 watt 8800K
bulbs and two 55 watt actinic bulbs, which would provide a total of 302
watts of light. This set-up would provide more wattage than the T8 bulb
set-up discussed above, but I don't know if the quality of light would be
better (in terms of spectrum) and the replacement cost is much higher per
year (about $170 for the PC compared to $72 for the T8 bulbs).
<If it were me, and I were choosing between these two, and would not be using
much live rock... and no plans for other purposeful photosynthetic life, I'd go
with the T8s>
Now a few questions.
1. Would the fish be healthier with more light in the main tank (e.g., for
pineal gland stimulation) than provided by the T8 bulbs?
<Not really... and the added algae problems from the increased intensity
contraindicate more light>
2. What do you think of the Sylvania and ZooMed T8 bulbs? Do either of
them put out good quality light? Is the quality of light put out by these
T8 bulbs comparable to the quality of light put out by PC bulbs?
<Quality? Yes, quite similar... the mechanism of production is just
different... less expensive per unit PAR (photosynthetically active radiation)
with CF...>
3. Would you recommend any other bulb arrangement over the ones I discussed
above for a short and squat 125 to 150 gallon main tank that focuses on
fish?
<Yes. Just something in the 5,500 K temp, 92+CRI... and lowest otherwise cost
of acquisition, install and operation... better to spend more on ballasting
(electronic) than get too involved with lamp types...
Bob Fenner>
Thank you again.
Bruce Grant
Marine lighting
You may have answered some of these question before but I just ran across
your web site and I have a question I would like your opinion on. I have
read so much about all the different lightings and I guess there are many
ways to go but I am going to set up a 36X18 Tank for a reef tank. Approx
50 gallons. My choices are the following:
which is best?
1-MH 175 W , 2- 30W actinic
1-MH 175W, 2 PC actinic
All PC lighting.
I am still confused on which would be the best lighting. I am just not
convinced all Power compact is best. I was planning on having 2 fans in the
hood about 8 inches from the top. I would very much like to hear what you
think. Thanks very much. Dennis
>>
The "best" functionally (IMO of course), are the all-PC.... the most
light of useful wavelengths for the lowest per unit cost (fixtures, lamps,
replacement, electricity...), but in terms of looks... as in "beauty is in
the eye"... you might prefer some, all metal halide...
To the organisms you intend to keep, and what you hope to do with them (boosting
growth let's say), more intensity, wattage of either lighting format is
warranted...
I'm sure you start to understand the distinction between form and function,
economics, and esthetics.
Bob Fenner
Reef Lighting
I am preparing to set up a 220 gallon reef aquarium. The tank is
84"x24"x24". I wish to avoid halide lights. I was looking at VHOs,
but all I read says CFs are better.
<Yes. They are>
Then I read about the SmartLamp from Custom Sea Life.
<Hmm, these are types of CFs, Compact Fluorescents.>
Would you recommend a CF with 6-96 watt bulbs (72x12x4) or 2 (or 3) SmartLamps
(72x6x4 each) with 2-96 watt bulbs each? I wish to leave open the types of coral
I can keep. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Alvin
<The latter choice is superior... and you can add another fixture or two
depending on the look you want to achieve or should you move up to more high
light intensity livestock going forward. Bob Fenner>
Re: lighting
Thanks Bob!
The 125 is 6' long, and the 4X96 combo has 4 36" bulbs. So over the tank
would be 2 lights per half of the tank. If I swapped out only one of the
bulbs and had 3 white and 1 actinic, one half of the tank would have 1 white
and 1 actinic, and the other half would have 2 white lamps. How would this
effect the tank as far as looks, growth, effectiveness, etc?
<I would opt for the six lamp set-up... as previously stated... with two
actinics side by side to the back... otherwise... if you had to use four three
foot fixtures/lamps I would put two whites side by side to the front... one and
the actinic centered in the middle behind them... Would be brighter in the
middle... and would center more of the photosynthetic organisms toward the
middle...>
I think there
are only 2 cords for this set-up (one per 2 lamps), so I wouldn't be able to
turn the actinic on before, and off after, the white lamps. It looks like
the 6X96 will be the best bet.
<Ah, yes!>
I appreciate the help!
Jason
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
55 Gal - MH or PC lighting?
Dear Bob,
I loved reading TCMA! Your book has encouraged me to rise to the challenges
of marine/reef keeping; an endeavor I think I'll find be even more rewarding
than the freshwater system I currently maintain. I'm a big DIY-er, and I
would like to tackle marine system lighting issues with your expert
guidance.
<Am sure you can do this... that is, DIY gear... The state of development of
the hobby is not that far ahead of what we all can do given investigation,
patience and application>
Presently, I'm looking to light two new marine tanks: 20 High
[24"x12"x16"]
& 55 Gal [48"x12"x21"]. The tanks will share a common water
supply: 20
High + 55 Gal + 15 Gal Sump = 90 Gallons total, so as to help stabilize
water characteristics and take advantage of common in-sump skimming. I'm
looking to keep SPS and clams in both tanks, and I've read a lot on the
Internet about the pro's and con's of MH vs. PC lighting. Which of these
options (presented below) would you recommend for the 55 Gallon? This
particular tank size seems to be "right on the edge" with regard to
depth-of-tank, in choosing between Combo-MH/PC lighting vs. All-PC lighting.
** Options for the 55 Gallon **
#1) 250W 6,500K Iwasaki MH (8 to 12" above water surface) & two 55W PC
Actinic blues, OR
#2) 3 x 96W 10,000K PC & one 96W PC Actinic blue.
I'm concerned I might "burn" some species with option #1. However, if
safe
in your opinion, #1 would provide me with the MH "shimmering light"
effect
I'd like to enjoy.
<#1 will indeed "do this", though #2 would be/is my choice>
I am aware of the MH water-overheating issues, and as a
DIY-er have no problem w/installing the required cooling fans. Installing a
cooler, however, is something I'd like to avoid. I guess I'd offset the MH
to the left, so as not to melt the top-center support brace of the 55 Gallon
tank (Have you hear of this type of melting happening before?)
<Yes>
Would
off-setting like this cause a big light distribution problem across the
tank?
<No... perhaps to the "calloused eye" who has seen evenly
illuminated systems only...>
Uneven light distribution could be of some benefit to mobile aquatic
life, so they can move to their preferred light intensity (Yes/No?).
<The mobile invertebrates, fishes, yes>
If I
offset the MH to the left, should I shift the two actinic blues all the way
to the right, or stagger as usual (one front right & one back left)?
<Space these evenly>
** For the 20 High **
2 x 55W 10,000K PC & one 55W PC Actinic blue
Is this combination for the 20 High adequate for SPS and clams?
<Yes>
Much thanks and gratitude in advance for your help! :)
-Russ
<And for your participation, input. Bob Fenner>
Lighting dilemma 11-19-05
Hello and many thanks to you pros sharing your time to help out us struggling aquarists.
<<We what...?>>
<Welcome>
Wanting to get into SPS and better growth out of my Zoas, I thought about switching to metal halide. It seems I've
acquired a lot of lighting equipment from friends, raffles and mis- educated purchases.
<That sounds familiar...>
I currently have a 55 gallon reef setup 48 long-24 deep-12-wide light up with a 265watt pc( 2-65watt-10k and 2-65watt-aquatinic). In my possession I have 1-175 watt electronic ballast with a 12k
Sunburst bulb , a dual PFO 400 watt ballast with 10k bulbs and a 250 watt electronic ballast no bulb atm.
<Hmm, interesting mix.>
Well I was wondering if I switch to a MH set up what would be the best configuration?
<With SPS I usually suggest you buy as much light as you can afford. In this case, you will be limited by your tank size and the heat from metal halides.> |
|
 |
Would mounting a single 400 watt 10k in the center of the tank maybe a little higher than usual,
say 20in, do the trick or? would the lighting be too much for my mainly soft coral setup?
<It will be too much for your tank. 55 gallon tanks have a plastic center brace that will melt under a halide. You will
definitely need a 2 bulb set-up.>
Attached are some pics of my setup and corals if it might help finding the
answer to my dilemma.
<<No photos found - where be the photos, Travis? MH Ah,
found them in the 'deleted' folder...>>
<I believe a dual 175 watt set-up would be more than enough light and will have lower heat for you, but you could also get by with dual 250's (with an extra fan) and maybe pick up some extra
SPS coloration. The higher intensity lighting will keep some softies and zoos from expanding as large as they used to. That is due to the fact that they do not need as much surface area to catch light rays for the photosynthetic algae. As a side note, those 65 watt pc's would make great actinic additions to any metal halide combo you decide on.>
Thanks for your time, Ken Logsdon
<You're welcome. Travis> |
PC vs. VHO vs. MH & PC 9/1/05
Love the site! I read different articles all the time, but I could not find
my
question. I have a 37 gal reef tank that is about 3 weeks old. I have about
40 pounds of LR with no coral just a few damsels. I have everything setup and
running great but the lights. I have researched many different options but
just don’t know which one to go with. I want to keep my options open as far
as corals and anemones maybe even a clam not likely though. I am looking into
3 different light setups:
1) 2 - 65W PC = 130W cost about $120
2) 4 - 75W VHO = 300W cost about $240
3) 150W metal halide, 2 - 65W PC = 280W cost about $360
So what is the best setup for the cost and widest range of possibilities, and
what is the best bulb selection (light temp and actinic) for that setup? And
if there is a better setup out there that you know of please let me know.
<... depends on the type of life you intend to keep... and what you want to do
with it/them... If you end up with SPS and Tridacnids for instance, the MH would
be best... for just sustaining most LPS... PC's... Bob Fenner>
Just how "not important" is lighting not important to saltwater fish only
setup? 7/7/05
Hi WWM crew,
First of all i would like to THANK YOU all WWM crew members for being such a
great help for all my aquarium problems. I can't think of another better place
that helps me so much!
THANKS!!
<Welcome>
Sorry for the long story i tried my best to make it short already.
People had always told me that lighting is not important at all in a saltwater
fish only with live rock tank. Some of them even say that the fishes actually
don't need any light at all, and the light is just for my own viewing pleasure.
<Mostly so>
I used to have a 136W compact fluorescent lighting system for my 45G tank. It
broke down after about 2 months. I didn't have much money with me at that time
for me to purchase another compact fluorescent and since people said lighting is
not an issue so i used a incandescent hood from my previous 10G tank which only
has two 30W mini fluorescent bulbs I'm not even sure if those bulbs are truly
fluorescent).
<If not... then what?>
Those two bulbs barely light up the tank. However, ever since my compact system
was gone, my tank has been going down hill. First my Regal tang got ich and
died,
then my yellow tang and two ocellaris clown died mysteriously, then my totally
healthy well eating Moorish Idol died with white patches on his body,
<Rarely live... and a 45 is too small...>
and then most fish i added after that disaster just keep dying without obvious
reasons.
<Not likely related>
It just seems so strange to me, the first two months my tank was running
perfectly, and then the lighting broke down, and from that moment on my tank has
been a constant nightmare. Fish dies easily, with no problem in water chemistry)
all the fish keeps hiding, all the fishes are always scared. Could there be even
a slight chance that the lighting has anything to do with it??
<Mmm, perhaps indirectly... some lighting helps promote algae growth... algae
help to absorb nutrients, make overall environment more stable, provide some
food...>
Could it be that the fishes always think it is night time so they always hide?
<No... get "clues" re day from outside light>
I have this theory because i once notice my Moorish Idol had different color
pattern in day time and night time. And after the compact system broke down, it
never fully change back into day time pattern even in the day. However, i think
i should mention that even with so little lighting, i can still see clearly into
the tank in daytime since the room the tank is in is quite bright in the day.
<Bingo>
That is why I can't convince myself that the fish is thinking it is night time.
But they somehow act like it is night time, especially that Moorish Idol
incident i mentioned above.
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/idolfaqs.htm
Thanks any opinion would be much appreciated!
<I would get a better lighting set-up, study re your livestock choices ahead of
purchasing. Bob Fenner>
Protein skimmer & Lighting
Hi,
<Hi, Natalie... Anthony Calfo here. I must say that you have a beautiful
name. My niece and Godchild share it with you>
I just started a 55 gal salt water tank. It now has 3 damsels, a brittle
starfish, and an Atlantic Anemone.
<do resist anemones if you want coral... a tough mix as motile anemones bring
their stinging tentacles on the road to wreak havoc in the tank>
I have about 15lbs or live rock, working on buying more.
<the best investment for a marine aquarium>
I just added the starfish and the anemone. It will eventually become a reef
tank. I need a protein skimmer. Could you give me a few suggestions that are
good but also are at a reasonable price? I am short on money right now, but I
need one now, right?
<as soon as possible, but not at the expense of buying an inferior model.
Compensate by low stocking/feeding and extra water changes in the meantime. Do
look at CPR Bak Paks, Turboflotors, EuroReef Skimmers, Aqua C. Some mail order
places on the net like Custom Aquatic have quite competitive prices>
I am going to add fish, algae eaters, and invertebrates slowly.
<slower the better, yes>
I would also like to know a couple of things about lights. I have a two lids
making the top of my aquarium. The original lights are what I am using now (15w
each). First, what type and number of wattage do you suggest? I want to get some
corals but not the ones that require high intense lighting.
<you really need to pick your coral species before you can pick any
lighting...they have such different needs. And try to avoid mixing drastically
different families from LPS, SPS, Octocoral and Corallimorph families... just a
recipe for problems in the long run. Have a dominant theme and stick to it. Low
to med light for Zoantharians and LPS species, medium to high light for
Octocorals, and high light for clams and SPS species to make a gross
generalization>
Again my budget is limited. I am not worried about going cheap now and spending
even more when I upgrade. When I say cheap I don't mean the cheapest out the
best for the money. I would also like to know if I need to buy a different lid
or what?
<two retrofit 6500K Iwasaki metal halides (150 watt) would work nicely. Very
little DIY save for screwing the reflector and socket foot into the canopy lid,
A great savings indeed and a lighting scheme that would be great for the long
run too. Halides offer the most bang for the buck hands down>
Some people have told me that I could just lay it across the lid I have now with
no covering. This did not sound to cozier. Please let me know.
<depends on the light... but indeed not safe for most>
Thanks, Natalie
<kindly, Anthony>
Lighting Question
Greetings!
<Buona sera, Anthony>
I am looking for some advice on lighting a 125 (72") reef. I have two
options I am considering based on my budget. Option 1 is to purchase two CSL
SmartLite hoods each containing 2x96w for a total of 4x96w PC's. This will
obviously total 384w. Second option is to buy a retro kit for my modern series
canopy from all glass using the Icecap ballast and 4x160 VHO (two actinic white
and two actinic blue bulbs). This setup will again obviously total 640w. The
price between the two is less than $100. It seems somewhat obvious that the VHO
option would be more bang for the buck at just under 260w more light. My
intention is to keep mostly soft corals and a few LPS. Which setup would you
recommend and why? Thanks! Adam
<definitely the VHOs... better intensity that will be needed and appreciated
for the deeper six foot tank, still not too much light for the lower light LPS,
many of which belong on the bottom of aquaria anyhow (Fungiids, Catalaphylliids,
etc), indeed a better value, cheaper and easier bulb replacements because of
common industrial applications/production, time tested (although PCs are good
lights as well). I like simple blue actinics and daylight in balance. I can even
tolerate the cheap industrial daylight tubes under $15 each... they grow coral
just as well! URI brand is my choice. Anthony Calfo>
Hi Bob. From my research I've noticed that a majority of corals (at least
those I've looked at) prefer medium to strong lighting. I've come to terms
that my 125 gallon tank has a low amount of light (180 total watts) for these
corals but I've also discovered (well, found them in a book =) several corals
that do not need require, or even like, a high amount of light. Could you
recommend some of the less obvious (like Tubastrea) that I may have missed
that should do well with my light arrangement?
>>
Yikes, just the type of query I like (involved and thoughtful), but can't hope
to answer in a short response... Well, first off I commend your personal
search/research re your potential livestock's' living requirements... and the
look/investigate before you buy approach. And I do concur with your observation.
Of course, relative to what we are accustomed to farther away from the equator,
it's very bright in the tropics, even under shallow water. And yes, there are
many non-photosynthetic stinging-celled animals (even in the true coral Order,
Scleractinia), some are even reef builders though being ahermatypic... Now,
about simply listing the families, genera, species that have no, lower, least
light intensity requirements... I'd rather refer you to Veron's or Nilsen and
Fossa's books... not simply to save me time (there are MANY, though not that
many that are currently commonly found in the resale trade), but to not
"paint" a too-simple picture (you can imagine the damage you and I
could do with such a posting being read by new reef keepers... "let's see,
this is probably an easy species to keep, because that knuckle-head Bob Fenner
said it doesn't need much light..."). To repeat, there are many true/stony
corals (and many other stinging-celled animals that are lazily labeled as
"corals") that don't need much in the way of light. There are
references that detail this, among other essential husbandry notes... I'd study
these.
Bob Fenner
MH nec. for Scler.?
I would like to first thank you for the past information you have passed on
to me. I am going back and forth with the lighting issue. The two retailers
that I do business with both use MH for light on their livestock. They both
have told me that if you plan to keep stony corals (Acropora sp.) I should
us the MH. At the present time I have no interest in keeping this type of
coral, but if my tastes change will VHO or power compact be enough light?
In your opinion which is better VHO or Power compact in relation to
performance, and operating cost? How many watts should I use on a 36 X 24
X18 tank or 58 gal? And what name brand would you recommend.
I know that you don't recommend MH for reef keepers, but if there is one plus
that would pull me towards MH what would it be and is it worth it in cost and
performance.
Thank you, AJB
>>
I appreciate your support and your query. Hmmm, let's see. It wasn't till too
long ago (a year or two) that MH was not only the best, but close to the only
practical way to get intensity and quality of light for all eventualities.
Additionally, as you might surmise, for the retail, the appearance of livestock
is extremely important: MH lighting (often with actinic fluorescents) show off
the organisms on offer like nothing else.
To answer your second paragraph, Power Compacts beat VHOs in
set-up, operation and replacement costs (per PAR, lumens, even appearance). Ah,
Brand Names... I rarely "do" endorsements for a few reasons. I'm good
friends with many people in the business side of our aquaristic interests... the
players and their products change much more frequently than posted, printed
information... and in this case, there are many makes/models that are so close,
that there really is little difference. I would take a stroll through the hobby
magazine, Freshwater and Marine Aquarium (I'm sure you're familiar with this
publication, but for browsers I'll mention they do have a website).
And I do suggest MH lighting for deeper, larger systems.
Here, these fixtures reign supreme. Not only is MH illumination gorgeous, it
"punches" to depths with strength ahead of all other types of
lighting. In my opinion if you either have a tank that is two feet deep (or
more) or can make sense of the added electrical cost, waste heat, potential burn
and even explosion potential versus the beauty and photosynthesis driving
ability of MH's, go for them. For larger systems, I'd actually incorporate both
MH and CF's...
Bob Fenner
Mr. Fenner,
I've been reading tons of articles on the proper lighting for a reef tank
and have found that there seems to be no clear "best" choice. Metal
Halides
work, but they're very expensive, have widely (and difficult to determine)
levels of quality / suitability, etc. Normal fluorescents can work, but
you'll probably need a lot of them to provide enough intensity. VHO lights
can work as well, but certain regions of their spectra fade quickly with
time. Compact fluorescents have been called by some "the best possible
solution," since they're efficient, are small (many can be used), can
provide the correct spectrum, and don't lose their spectrum quickly with
time (I don't know how much these cost).
The general principles seem to be:
1) You must have sufficient wattage
2) You must provide this sufficient wattage in the photosynthetic region
(about 400 to 700 nm wavelength)
My additional requirements are:
3) the cost of the lighting can not break the bank (no more than about 200
bucks)
4) I don't have to run out and buy bulbs every 4 or 5 months
5) the lights don't get so hot (7" from water) that they cook my tank
inhabitants
Now, I currently have a 55gal fish only tank, which happens to contain a
maroon clown. I would like to add a bubble anemone for the clown and maybe
a few hardy corals.....
I'm planning to buy the necessary equipment to install four 48", 40watt
50/50 (actinic white) bulbs. Will this be enough for a bubble anemone and a
few hardy corals??
If not, what's the minimum setup I need. If my setup is sufficient, is
there anything better, but only slightly more expensive?
Thank you. Cordially, ENS William James Yavelak
>>
What a joy to receive such a well-thought out and well-researched query. Do
agree with much of your assessment and observations. For function's sake (versus
simply looks) there are a few ways "to go" in lighting a marine
system... and a range of incidental costs. Metal halides are great, given the
depth of system, some way of disposing of the waste heat they produce, and their
initial high, operating and maintenance costs...
The number of watts is not as useful a measure of supply per gallon as is PAR
(photosynthetically available radiation), and there are (I don't want to hear
anyone groaning) actual PAR meters...
The four lamp scheme you mention should be fine for your 55, but I would still
consider the compact fluorescents for the non-actinic light... Bob Fenner
Lighting, fixt.
I currently have a Coralife SHO 48 inch strip and two 55 watt 6700 k
I would like to keep clams, corals and invertebrates i.e. anemones. Is this
sufficient.
Do I need to add a blue actinic, the SHO light strips are expensive can
I get away with adding a single or double fluorescent fixture for the
actinic.
I was looking at a RedSea Phazer IV, with two AquaStar 10k's and two
Coralstar Actinic Blues what are your thoughts.
Confused
Regards, Lou
>>
I take it these are on a four foot or so long tank? Depending on depth (as long
as it's not over 22", like a show model 55 gal...) the present lighting
should be fine, and better with adding the actinics... even if they're normal
output fluorescents.
The newer lighting system proposed is nicer, but not necessary... for most
collections of livestock I would have... unless you intend to push their
metabolisms... and have the money, expertise to contend with the induced mal
side-effects of doing so.
Bob Fenner... who would just add the actinics.
I have some data in http://www.aquabotanic.com/lightcompare.htm. The tablelists just one CF, the Osram Dulux L 55w/850. Its PAR/watt efficiencyfactor is about 20% higher than equivalent (CRI ~ 80) but normal-output fluorescents. I have additional, non-published results for the Philips PL-L 55w/950, a higher CRI CF. Its PAR/watt factor is about 10% larger
than other high CRI but normal output fluorescents (typically a C50 full spectrum
tube). I also have non-published results for the Philips TLD/950, a very high CRI full-spectrum T8 tube, that indicate its PAR/watt efficiency to be about 20% higher than normal full-spectrum fluorescents. Based on these very few but hard data points, I would say
CFs and T8s are somewhat more efficient than normal output fluorescents.
<Oh yes! RMF>
Lighting
Bob-
I was wondering if you could explain the difference between fluorescent, power
compact, VHO and metal halide lighting. I understand that, in general, hard
corals need stronger lighting than soft corals but how much lighting is too much
(so corals don't burn) and what is the minimal lighting needed to support a
basic live rock and soft coral reef tank.
<Well, some basics: the first three are all types of fluorescents... and
Metal Halides produce photons by way of a different physical principle... But I
don't think this is the information you want... Your understanding re soft and
hard corals is the same as mine. Most soft corals can get by on half as much PAR
(photosynthetically active radiation, a measure of the strength of useful EMR
wavelengths)... But let me stop, or slow here and say that what you are asking
is very important, germinal to successful husbandry of light-needing life... but
not easy to answer in a short period of space and time... Instead, I have more
detailed articles to refer you to at www.wetwebmedia.com on the Net. Read these
over (re light, fixtures... for marine aquariums). There are just too many
factors to elaborate on here: Dissolved color in the water, depth of the tank,
light extinction coefficients for different light sources... to give a fast
formula of oh so many watts or lumens per this or that measure... I'll answer
more satisfyingly with your specific circumstances listed below>
Also, how does each type of lighting affect algae growth (both good algae and
bad algae)?
<What do you mean? How does photosynthesis work... the same mechanism for
each type of light... but more for more of the photonic energy produced by any
given type of lighting type... More to the point, in general are issues of
whether a given light source will produce how much useful wavelengths for
purposeful (desired) photosynthesis... for the most part, the same wavelengths
that boost hermatypic corals et al. also boost thallophyte (algal) metabolism...
The control of noisome algae is more a matter of maintenance, nutrient
competition and predatory control than producing the "right" amount or
types of visible light>
Lastly, what is the difference between the four types of lighting in regards to
how strong they are and what type of spectrum they have.
<The MH is "strongest" per rated watt, but most are "less
efficient" than most CFs... i.e. they CFs produce more useful illumination
per money overall... due to the MH consuming more power than their rated
equivalent outputs, fixture and lamp investment, replacement... with the VHO, HO
and regular output fluorescents ranking very down... but being highly variable
depending on lamp, ballast types employed...
The spectral mix has much more to do with the type of lamp than the mechanism of
light production... Do you understand concepts like Color Rendering Index, Color
Temperature, Intensity and Spectral Shift...? You will soon>
I currently use two 36" 30W blue and two 36" 30W white. I would like
to support both hard and soft corals and will upgrade my lighting to what you
suggest. FFExpress seems to have a great selection.
Thanks for your help once again.
Rob
>>
On how big, deep a tank? Bob Fenner
Fiber optic lighting
bob
have you heard of anybody using fiber optic lighting on reef a tank ?
lightolier corp. has fiber optic lighting coming out on the market
Feb./march.
the light generator is available in 175w,250w and 400w metal halide. it
will be able to handle up to 10 fiber optic cables. the tips on the cable will
be available in various degrees of spots and floods. I am thinking of trying
this out on my tank. you can sit the light generator on the floor or inside the stand, place a 12k or 14k bulb in it and run the cables up into the hood.
no heat buildup! what do you think?
>>
Interesting to actually get a unit, hook it up and see how much useful light (as
in with a lumen meter, PAR meter) it produces... Something's like this have
actually been tried "on the market"... but don't know the particulars
of the mechanism of light production (don't think any have been MH)... and these
were mainly decor items... not functional light producers per se. As my Mom
would say if we asked if we could get ice-cream if we were good, "We'll
see".
Bob "pistachio" Fenner
Need a light for my 45 gallon saltwater fish tank.
I have had saltwater fish for many years and I am looking into keeping
corals.
I need to know if you carry the correct lighting I need for the tank.
Please advise.
Thank you, Luis Perez
>>
For 45's of stock sizes, look into two compact fluorescents... one of about a
10k rating the other an actinic... and get a couple of timers... These will be
your best investment for getting you the looks and spectrum/intensity for a good
mix of all that's available in reef livestock. Bob Fenner
Lighting Question
Hello Bob
I was planning on setting up a Fish only tank until I read your very interesting book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" now I'm hooked
and would like to try to set up a tank with fish and Invertebrate system, with live rock. My question is
what type of lighting should I provide for my live
rock so that I can grow coralline algae and what ever may be present on the
live rock. After I become more skilled I would like to move toward keeping a
reef aquarium. I will be setting up a 90gal. tank and was planning on using 4
VHO lamps when I move toward a reef aquarium. I would like to know if I should start with the 4 VHO lamps or wait until I start keeping specimens that
need intense lighting. I would rather put my money toward the VHO lamps now instead of buying a strip light now with twin 40 watt bulbs and having no
use for them when I upgrade. Also will this be enough lighting for some of the photosynthetic corals I might try to keep in the future. I know these
lights will be over kill in the beginning but I thought it would be good for the live rock.
Thanks, Ralph
>>
Ah, the clincher is that you will be moving into more "reef" life
sooner than later... and the size/shape of your intended tank (a ninety)... You
could get by on just two VHO's in the meanwhile (of full-spectrum fluorescent
lighting)... but I encourage you to look into a "double" compact
fluorescent for now (the fish and invert. and live rock... with coralline algae)
set up... with about a 10k temperature... and add two actinic VHOs when you are
stepping up to more light dependent life forms. Otherwise, the four VHOs you
have in mind will work... and you can switch one or more of the
"white" lamps out for actinic types (and save them for replacing the
others when they're old). Bob Fenner
Dear Bob,
I am starting up a new tank, but it is one weird shaped tank.
Specs:
40 gallons
39 inches deep
<!>
diamond shaped
equipment (so far):
150 watt heater
aquarium systems quicksand filter
Aquaclear 150 filter (only size to fit on tank)
I need some help on lighting needs and species preferences...
Lighting - Because the tank is only 16 inches across the top my aquarist friend suggested a MH system for the depth also. I found a good 10000k system w/dimmer (name brand+small price). But I wanted to know if it was a good choice for the species I would like: 5 (A. akindynos,
Sebae, or allardi which do you suggest for best candidate?) clownfish, 1 hippo tang, some cleaner shrimp, live rock (pounds?), live sand, and an anemone (E. quadricolor).
Your book was GREAT!
Please help soon,
Chris Anderson
>>
What do you was? Oh, let's see. Yes, I'd definitely go with the metal halide...
Bear in mind you will want to be able to adjust its height to manipulate
temperature effect...
And all three Clowns you list are great.... but the akindynos is my fave... and
both it and the allardi are natural symbionts with Entacmaea, but the Sebae (the
real species) is not... though it/they will generally "learn" to live
together.
Live rock poundage is a function of density (variable feature), and desired
look/effect... somewhere... about forty to seventy pounds is probably what
you're looking at/for... Check out the "old Acroporid" types sold out
of Tonga, Fiji, Marshalls...
Bob Fenner
Lighting? Lamps and fixtures
Hello Bob,
I have a 30 gallon tall setup w/ eclipse II and I was wondering what
lighting would be best for propagating the growth of
my live rock and inverts? I do not have the ability to use VHO, metal
halide or power compacts. What do you think would be
better? 10,000k and 03 Actinic, 20,000k and 03 Actinic or 10,000 k and
20,000 k fluorescent?
thanks a bunch, Ben
>>
In my opinion... and you know many other folks will state otherwise, the first
choice, the 10k and O3 are best.... for looks and function overall... Now that
bold statement being made, there are "live rock and inverts" mixes
that would quickly change my mind. If/when you find yourself more interested in
small polyped stony corals, tridacnid clams... or perhaps boosting the
growth/metabolism of other less-light demanding species... But for now, and
overall... the 10k and 03.
Bob Fenner
Will you please give me a name and wattage on types of light I can retrofit
and where I can get it for the RR Oceanic 135g fish only Thank you for your help
.New aquarist
>>
For what sort of livestock? For what function? To keep them alive, just see
non-photosynthetic organisms, like fishes, when you want to? To maximize growth
of giant clams, stony corals...? Do a little more digging... take a look at the
marine aquarium lighting and light articles stored at www.wetwebmedia.com
There are many options... for me, I'd fit in some compact fluorescents in the
135... but the number of lamps/watts, and their types (actinic, different
temperatures of the "white" lamps) would vary depending on the types
of life and function YOU have in mind...
Bob Fenner
Lighting
I have a question I'm starting up a reef tank and I was wondering what
would be better on a 30g 192watts or 284watts
thanks, David
>>
If you're just starting, I would go for the lower wattage for sure...
"Boosting" a system photically is a dangerous and involved
enterprise... Everything happens faster: waste heat production, algae problems,
injurious interactions between photosynthetic antagonistic species (there's a
bunch)... Go with the lower wattage... this is enough light to keep any type of
marine livestock...
Bob Fenner
Lighting
With the high cost of Metal Halide is it possible to light a reef tank with a
Mercury Vapor light. I have an old book published by Tetra press that suggest
that Mercury Vapor can be used it just needs to be supplemented with Actinic
blue lights. Before I switch to a new lighting system instead of fluorescent and
it's expense of changing tubes every 6 months I'm trying to explore different
options.
>>
I would not go the mercury vapor route... though these lighting types are in use
in some places in Europe... I don't care for them... for the incomplete
wavelength issue you mention as well as their appearance... Save up for MH,
and/or investigate the next generation of functional/aesthetic winning lighting
technology: Compact Fluorescents... all the looks and intense full spectrum...
at lower initial and operational cost... with negligible waste heat...
Bob Fenner
Lgt. fixt.
Hi Bob I just read your book which was fantastic for a beginner as myself.
I have a 67 gallon fish only which I am slowly converting to reef. I plan to keep soft corals but I do not know what the future holds. I need to buy a metal halide hood. I want to buy the hood once so I don't want to spend
the extra cash to upgrade in future.
48 long, 16 wide, 20 deep. 2.5 inch sand bed. either 1) 2 175 5500k with 2 NO
actinics
extra fan plan to upgrade to a 10000k bulb for the look later on.
2) 2 250 6500k Iwasaki with 2 NO actinicsextra fan also can get the 10000k in future.
For the moment I don't know my goal but I love clams and soft corals. My worry is that I might not need 250 watters? its 20 deep can 175 watts be good enough, I am worried about overheating the tank with the 250 etc...or spending money that does not have to be spent. might get a 24 deep in future. 48 long, 18 wide 24 high= 90 gallons, will 175 be ok? or should I get the 250 from start.
Also all I want is a bright white look to the tank, not to yellow, green
or blue. Which combination will do this white color look?
Thank you Bob , loved your book.
>>
Thank you for writing... and if you don't mind, after you've obviously done
quite a bit of research already... I'd suggest you reconsider your options...
and take a look at the possibility of compact fluorescents for the 20"
tank... something in the way of two lamps in the 10k temp. range... which brings
up the MH idea... the higher Kelvin rating the brighter white appearing... and
if you do go with the 250's you're definitely going to have to get a chiller....
so I would:
1) Get CFs... or secondarily:
2) The two 175w MHs or lastly... with a chiller and the big electric bill and
sunglasses for all:
3) the 250w MHs
Your friend in fish, Bob Fenner
Lighting and setup
I work at a pet store and I try to provide as much information about
saltwater setups and fishes. I read your section at FFExpress everyday
just absorbing the information.
Here is my question. At work we are competing with another pet store
almost across the street with saltwater fishes and reefs and etc.. We
are setting up a 125 gal reef tank. The owner of the store wants it to
be the main attraction of the saltwater fish section. He put me in
charge of it because I am the only one with any experience in saltwater
fish. Anyway, I have basic knowledge for corals , just like polyps and
anemones, but not any hard or soft corals especially pretty show ones.
What sort of lighting do I need to get for the tank, he wants to use a
wet/dry system, so maybe other people will look at it and buy one. What
are some easier corals, most likely to live, that are pretty or unusual
to look at and what are some good fish to put in there. I want to put
some Banggai cardinals, I love those little guys but when I would feed
them, a lot of the food would be gone before they got a chance to eat,
so what are some other fish I can keep with them that are reef safe.
When people come into my store, if I cant help them or don't have a clue,
I send them to your webpage to ask you, I have had some nice comments
about your response.
thanks for the help, Mike
>>
Thanks so much for writing... And get ready with the big pot of coffee for some
"late night" study... Do your store, the hobby, and yourself a giant
favor and get/read (they can/should become "store reference copies"
Volumes 1 and 2 of Sven Fossa, Alf Nilsen "Modern Coral Reefs", and
Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung's same number of tomes "Reef
Aquariums"... and read them carefully....
You are soon to represent not only your store, but the industry's best and
brightest information/presentation on what the marine hobby has to offer.... And
from these questions.... You're not ready!
If it were my shop (spent 14 years "on the floor" retail, started,
helped run a corporation that had stores...) I'd set-up the 125 with both Metal
halide pendants AND some compact fluorescent actinics...
Easier corals? Start with some of the Euphyllias (Anchor, Frogspawn...)... Avoid
buying, displaying tough-to-keep species like Gonioporas ("flower
pot"), Elegance (Catalaphyllia) Corals....Fishes? Where to start? For when
you're on the Net, take a look through the selection articles and
family/genera/species accounts I have archived at www.wetwebmedia.com for a
quick introduction to what is available, best... and what to avoid... Pay
especial attention to the sections: "The Best Livestock... for Your
Reef/Marine Aquarium" (unpublished book sections).
Thank you for your kind comments, and involvement in "our" interest!
Bob Fenner
I have been told that I need special lights for live rock, as of now I have
4 - 48in. from the hardware store, 3 normal warm lights and one blue
sunlight light. will these work for now, or do I need to get coral life
lights, I plan on getting some new ones later when I go to a reef tank.
thanks
>>
You can use most any bright light source, but full-spectrum fluorescents of a
warmer temperature range (measured in degrees Kelvin) of 5,000, and a CRI (color
rendering index) of 90 or more are needed for really healthy growth (useable
wavelengths of light are at question here)... You don't mention how big, deep a
tank, or how much, what type of live rock... Maybe take a look at the Marine
Lighting materials stored on my site: Home Page for much more detail, input.
Bob Fenner
Hello:
I've heard you talk about reverse photoperiod in regards to lighting .
Could you please explain this briefly ?
Thanks, Jill
>>
Reverse photoperiod refers to lighting regimens alternating between a main and
sub-system like a sump/refugium... One being on while the other is off... the
benefits of such an arrangement include a stabilization of water quality,
dissolved oxygen, algae reduction...
Bob Fenner, who must always remind himself of the enormous amount of cryptic and
arcane terminology and verbiage in our interest, and thanks you.
New line of questioning....I know I need to upgrade the lighting on my tank
again...I should have learned by now that there is no easy way to cut corners in
salt water...right?
<A few, but not many>
Well, On my 92 gal corner aquarium we have about 110w in Power Compacts and 60w
in a regular Fluorescent. (in each 1 actinic bulb, one day). That totals
170w....well, through FFE. I see that they carry a 36" power compact in
hood, 384w for $529 and a Metal halide/ power compact prism with 306w for about
$439. Could you please advise me on which to go with?
<I'll try>
I really don't have the money to spend, but you know all of the trouble that we
are having with the mantis, and the Cyanobacteria etc....I don't want to
"mess up" again and have to spend even more to fix the new problems.
<Agreed... and the amount of lighting is directly tied in...>
I have described the top of my tank to you before with its odd shape there is no
hood. I have merely a cover glass with the lights in their own hoods (the one
has its own fan) on top. When I switch to the new lighting it will no doubt not
cover the entire top of the tank. Do I need to be worried about the light
escaping around the sides of the ABS hood through the cover glass?
<Not really, unless it annoys you.... there are advantages (functional) of
reflecting the light down, into your system though... hoods, contact material
you can buy, install... even (for non-MH... they get too hot), Mylar-reflectorized
acrylic that is easy to cut/have cut into panels that can be fashioned into
light hoods/niches...>
Please be honest. Should I hire someone to build some kind of reflecting hood
that will cover the whole cover glass?
<If you don't have the time, tools, materials, expertise... sure (I don't do
much work on my old (Hey, they're paid for) cars)... No worries... Or you can
fashion one out of wood... and maybe rig up a trellis-like arrangement for
lifting it up, out of the way when you want to get inside the tank...>
Not too much light "escapes" right now due to the fact that I have the
two ABS hoods up there...but switching to only one may be a different story.
Also, one more small question...how do I make the switch less dramatic for the
fish and algae problem?
<Phase in the number of new lamps, hours on... over a few weeks time.>
Maybe by only turning on half of the lights for a week or so, and then three
lights, and then all four? Is that even possible?
<Sure. There are timers, dimmers... or the manual route>
Are there four switches on those things? Gee I wish we had some intelligent
marine tank specialists out here!!!! Thanks again. I look forward to your
response as usual! RT :)
>>
<Sure, and thank you for the swimming Tang download. Either the CF's or CF
and MH combo will do well on your size, shape tank... I am inclined to suggest
just using the CF's as these will do the job and present fewer technical and
problematic possibilities (the MH's are HOT, and need to be situated higher
above the tank... produce waste heat that needs to be dealt with... And do
produce copious amounts/intensity of light... but maybe for types of organisms
you never intend to house... like SPS corals, Giant Clams.... If it were me, or
you were my customer, I'd stick with the CF's...
Bob Fenner>
180 salt fish tank setup, fixt.
I have just purchased a used 180 SeaClear tank and am working to set it up. My
question is about lighting. The tank will have fish and live rock but no
inverts. I have gone to many fish stores over the last week trying to narrow my
lighting choices down but have become more confused. Some say that 2 4'
fluorescence will do, others say that I should go with the compacts. Then they
talk about the blue and white lights and also weather on the compact lights to
go with 2 36" with 2 bulbs each or 4 bulbs each. I am totally confused. I
am
going to have a canopy so the lights can be mounted. And I want the tank to be
bright but not blinding. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
>>
Good to hear of your going with building/buying a canopy... the hoods that come
with SeaClear's tanks are inadequate...
Do understand the many different opinions you're getting... Who knows how long
you might keep this 180 just "Fish Only"? Also, depending on the
setting... two Regular Output (RO) or four might be too dim for your
enjoyment... For me, I would look into at least four RO to boosted (High, Very
High) output fluorescents... or step up to the plate for the Compact
Fluorescents (CFs)... and not worry too much about the "blue" (aka
actinic) lamps for now... you can buy them later... or just get one or two lamps
in this spectral/temp. range if you intend to start with, or soon add live
rock... or any photosynthetic life...
In either case fluorescents come in different, specified temperatures... and I
would go with lamps that are at least 5k in temp... and likely some in the 5 and
10k ranges... take a look around at retrofitting this gear yourself, btw.
FFExpress.com sells the parts for the DIYer.
Sorry if I'm adding to, instead of erasing the bloat of information here...
Maybe take a look at the Marine Light, Lighting sections stored at the URL:
www.wetwebmedia.com
Bob Fenner
Lighting, fixt.
Hi
We have just purchased a 110 gallon aquarium, with wet dry filter, protein
skimmer and an additional power head. We have also just purchased live rock
uncured and cured from FFE. My question is two part (we are novice)
1st I eventually want to add lighting for soft coral, etc. what would you
recommend for this size tank.
<If only live soft corals, VHO fluorescents, possibly VHO and Compact
Fluorescents (some of actinic, some whites of 5k, 10k temperature)... to Just
CF's... If you might go the SPS coral and tridacnid clam route, possibly the
addition of two, or even three Metal Halides in addition to some CF
actinics...>
#2-The live rock will be coming today, since the tank has been running for over
a week, can I cured the live rock in this tank? Please give me your opinion.
<Yes, do cure the live rock in place... see the articles on this and related
topics stored at www.wetwebmedia.com>
Its great to know that their are professionals who are there to help
Thank you, Connie
>>
<You're welcome! Bob Fenner>
Lighting, fixt.
My Tank is 72x18x18, and I currently have 2 36" twin tube NO lights for
the tank. It is a fish only with about 45 lbs. of live rock ,11 fish( 3
tangs, 2 clowns, nigger trigger, damsels), 2 Condylactis anemones,
Feather duster and 2 shrimp (banded coral & cleaner). I would like to
try soft corals, but I know that the lighting must be upgraded. I want
to go metal halide but I am worried about the heat, (no chiller in
budget). I have been told to use 175w 10,000K. Are pendants ok?
What about fluorescent lighting? I need help? Also, is it cheaper to
build myself? Thanks.
>>
Hmm, if it were me, I'd leave off with the metal halides ideas altogether, and
either add more regular to boosted output fluorescents, or if little room,
and/or desirous of more intensity, look into compact fluorescents instead, in
addition. Take a look at FFExpress retrofit products for these: yes, you can
DIY.
Am a bit worried about the Niger Trigger in this mix... it will eventually go
after your shrimps, feather duster, and probably your clowns... Bob Fenner
Hi Bob,
First of all, I would like to tell you that your column is the best I've
ever read. It's too bad that people like my husband, that only speak
Spanish, cannot benefit themselves with it, like they would like to. I hope
that one day we can be able to find information in our language. I would
like for you to take in consideration my constructive critic which will give
you the success in being the first in writing a column about this hobby,
offering your readers the option on choosing the language they prefer to
read it in.
<Please do look i |
