Reef Lighting Question 5/8/08
I currently have a FOWLR setup and I am in the process of changing over to a reef setup.
<A natural, eventual move!>
I currently am running three 250 watt metal halides with Reeflux 12k bulbs and four 4 foot 110 watt VHO (2 actinic white and 2 actinic blue) on a 300 gallon aquarium (96L X 24W X 30H). I am planning on either going with 3-250 watt MH with 8-110 VHO, which will give me 1630 watts total, or approximately 5.433 watts per gallon.
<Watts per gallon is a poor measure. Depth and livestock planned are far more important.>
My second choice would be going with 4-250 watt MH with 8-110 VHO, which is 1880 watts total or approximately 6.267 watts per gallon. I am "planning" on keeping LPS, Mushrooms, Leather, Brain, and maybe a few anemones or clams.
<Anemones will not mix well with the rest.>
Which setup would you recommend and also regarding the 8 VHO's which combination of Actinic Blue and Actinic White, what would you recommend with the 12K Reeflux MH's?
<The MH configuration totally depends on what you want. With three on an eight foot tank you may have darker areas between the lights. Since this is what you have been running you can make this call fairly easy. Either lighting configuration will work fine, with the more lighting intensive livestock placed more directly under the lights rather than between. If you want to be able to place all wherever (in regards to side to side of the tank) the four MH will be the way to go. As for the VHO’s, four pure actinics will be all you need. They add little but aesthetics, if you like a very blue tank you could run eight or a higher Kelvin MH bulb, but four will suit most all just fine. I honestly see little advantage to upgrading your current lighting unless you have major shadows now with just the three, this will depend on the spread provided from the reflector. I hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>

It's me again! Using WWM, light cycles... 04/22/08
I just Emailed you a couple hours ago and I have a another question.
<I don't see a prev. question... there are a couple dozen of us "here"... need to send prev. corr. if it's pertinent>
I came into the room to turn off my lamp because I learned that fish need daylight and darkness too and that reminded me. If I have my lamp on in the mornings, and turn it off later, would that be any danger to my fish?
Not to be a bother,
Brogan
<See WWM re... regular light cycles are a good idea, but having lights on/off at a particular time not a big deal... Bob Fenner>

Lighting a Reef in the Canopy 4/11/08
I just bought an 180g AGA.
<Congratulations.>
I'm trying to decide which lighting setup would work with such a limited amount of room. I like the Maristar unit but also like the SE MHs with VHOs
With about a 9 inch clearance, what road should I go down?
This, by the way, will be a reef tank
Thank you
<This is really a personal call for you. If you plan on keeping SPS or clams, the MH is the way to go, although the T5 unit can work fine too. If heat may be an issue for you then the T5 looks better. Your clearance in the canopy is kind of tight for MH, but can be done. You will have to decide what fits you and your needs best. Welcome, Scott V.

Aquarium Lighting and Nuisance Algae – 04/09/07
All,
<<Thomas>>
Thanks again for everything, and it's nice to write in for an opinion verses a solution.
<<Ah well…hopefully one leads to the other>>
My question is about lighting. I've read lots of the FAQ, spoke with several stores, etc, seem to get a lot of different answers.
<<And you think coming here will be different? {grin} >>
Perhaps they're just overly complex answers.
<<Ahh…>>
I've seen in stores and read about Halide, HQI, PC, T5, T6, T8, etc. I've decided I don't want Halide lights.
<<My personal fave>>
I don't think I need them.
<<Okay>>
My tank is 72" long, is a FOWLR setup, and of course there are little hermits (red & blue leg), some small clams and oysters (compliments of live rock), tiny fan worms, and copepods. I really like the coralline algae, the purple stuff, and I want it to thrive and grow.
<I see>>
What light setup is going to provide this what it needs?
<<Lighting does play a part, but is only a portion of the equation. It won’t matter what type lighting you have if water quality is low and bio-mineral content is deficient/out of balance. That said…some of the most impressive Coralline growths I have witnessed were under either high-Kelvin (20,000K) Metal Halide lighting that was well up off the water…or under Fluorescent lighting with lots of Actinic>>
I'm leaning towards putting two 36" PC strips on the tank, both having 192 watts (dual bulbs, one of the actinic variety). That would be a total of 384 watts of light. Think this would be sufficient?
<<Would be fine here…though be aware the life present on the live rock may change as only those organisms able to make adjustment/utilize the available lighting will flourish>>
I'm already wiping down the tank glass once a week to remove algae.
<<Not necessarily a function of the lighting>>
I don't think it's a bad variety, just the common green algae that snails like to eat.
<<And likely won’t just “go away” with a change in lighting>>
I think I would need 1273 snails to keep up with it though, especially with the new lighting. It's a different topic, but I've read that nitrates increases the algae, but they consistently test at less than 20 ppm, and usually it's 10 ppm or less.
<<And even at that is PLENTY to fuel nuisance algae…though what you describe on your glass is quite common and easily just “wiped away.” Nothing of concern in my opinion>>
Is there another factor that causes it that can be controlled, or is it just something you live with due to the intense lighting?
<<Water quality and the presence (or lack) of herbivores has much more to do with nuisance algae problems than lighting…if this is your focus then you need to spend some more time reading. Start here and follow the associated links at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm. But as already stated the light film of green algae you clean off once a week is not problematic in my opinion, nor something you will likely ever eliminate no matter what you do. Many a hobbyist would be happy to have this as their only algae issue>>
I've been reading about it, but it doesn't seem to be any of the bad algae (brown, hair, etc), just the green stuff.
<<Agreed…of no concern>>
Well, thanks again and take care!
Thomas Roach
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Lighting Debate 4/4/08
WWM Crew,
Hello, thanks for taking my question. You should get your own Sirius radio station!
<Hello, that would be great…but this media serves us well. We are able to answer questions when time permits!>
Anyways, here’s my story; I currently have a 220gal with VHO's and I just bought an Oceanic 90 gallon bowfront with the ABS (plastic) canopy and stand.
<Congratulations.>
Well I bought my first Metal Halide setup, it's a retro kit. Well come to find out that the canopy is only 8" high and I’m worried that the MH bulbs will get too hot that close to the water and/or with a plastic canopy.
<Yes, likely so.>
So I wanted to return my light setup. I won’t lose a restocking fee if I take store credit $600, from Hellolights.com, but I don't know what to do. I was thinking about just getting a all-in-one and mounting it on top of the tank.... Any help would be great. TIA
<An all-in-one fixture either suspended as a pendant or mounted on legs will definitely workout fine. Also consider a T5 retrofit. It will give you the lighting you want without the concentrated heat in one spot. This lighting with a fan in the canopy will work great with this setup. Welcome, I hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>

General Question about lighting, Soft Corals  – 03/10/08
Hello and congrats on a great source of info!
<Thank you>
First of all, this is an absolutely great site with an unbelievable amount of information!
I have a general question about lighting. My wife and I have a 56 gallon display aquarium that is 30" wide x 24" deep and 30" high (I know, this was her pick that offset my $$ spend on equipment). My primary question is deals with lighting. The tank came with a single 20 fluorescent lighting fixture and we have a Corallife 2x65 watt 30" fixture (New 1 actinic 65 watt and 1 10,00k 65 watt w/2 moonlights) is this enough light for soft corals or leathers?
<Mmm, no... not nearly intense enough... There are some relatively low light groups, species of Alcyonaceans... and you might "get away" with positioning a few more light-needing species higher up, on your rock... And I would definitely switch out the one actinic lamp for another "white"... Much of this is gone over (and over) on WWM... I would either settle on the three 65 watt "white" lamps and the arrangement of life as stated, or look into adding, switching out this fixture for about twice this wattage... The "better" response might well be to encourage you to ask around at your local fish stores, marine clubs to see if they have a PAR meter for loan... and actually measure the useful photonic energy of all here... at various depths... and/or to encourage your regular use of GAC, ozone... to enhance useful photonic energy transmission... or...>
Your insight, as always, would be appreciated...
Tank set-up now,
56 Gallon w/actual 48 gallons water (DO w/IO SW mix), 7 months old,
62 Lbs live rock,
Remora skimmer w/1200 MaxiJet,
3 MaxiJet 1200 powerheads for circulation,
1 TopFin powerhead for circulation,
Fluval canister w/polyfoam, PhosBan and ChemiPure
3/4" CaribSea live sand
1- 2" Flame Angel
2- Ocellaris clowns 1" & 3/4"
1- Bicolor Blenny 2"
1-Royal Gramma 1 1/2 "
1- 1 1/2" six line wrasse
2- Peppermint Shrimp
20- Assorted hermit crabs and snails.
0-ammonia & nitrite
5-10 nitrate (reading before weekly water change)
PH 8.3
Salinity 1.024
I'm waiting for my Salifert test kit for Ca, Alk. (I'm in Hill Country Texas ...mail order only!)
Weekly 8 gallon water changes w/DO and IO SW mix (aged one week)
Canister cleaning each week.
<Sound/reads very nice indeed>
40 years experience with fresh water aquariums and I had a prior 400 gallon saltwater aquarium when the only source of saltwater was at Scripps Institute in San Diego.
<Ahh, I do remember... still live in SD... in East La Jolla, okay... Mira Mesa>
Thanks,
Jim Ferguson
<!? Any relation to friend Mark Ferguson? Bob Fenner>

Internal vs. External Ballast 2/23/08
Hi. I find your site extremely helpful.
<Great!>
I am purchasing an HQI/t-5 /led lighting system or a HQI/compact fluorescent/lunar lighting system for my saltwater tank. My question is what is better and external ballast or an internal ballast lighting system. Thanks. Joann.
<Each have advantages/disadvantages. With an external ballast you can mount it remotely, keeping the heat produced away from your tank. It is also easier to replace should the ballast go out. The downside is you do have to find a place to put it. With the internal ballast you have the ease of an all in one unit. The downside here is more heat from/in your lighting fixture. One is not inherently better than the other, each just has its advantages. You will have to choose which suits your situation better. Welcome, Scott V.>

Lighting and reading 2/4/08
Hi all,
<Hello.>
I am confused once again on lighting, I hope you can help.
About a year ago I got some advice from one of the guys on how to get adequate reef lighting on a budget for my 55 gallon. So I invested in the T5 HO linkable 48 inch retro fit kits from Current. I bought fixtures here and there and I like them a lot, and so do my fish and corals. (except for the excessive algae, Grrr).
<Feeding and nutrient control my friend.>
I like the way I can link 2 together and time then to come on gradually, instead of them all at once. I currently have 2 – 460, 54 watt actinics , and 60,000K of daylight (two 28 watt, four 54 watt). My first question is… is this too much light?
<Depends on what you are keeping, likely not. The Kelvin ratings on bulbs are not cumulative.>
Can it ever be too much?
<Yes.>
A friend  told me I should add a couple more daylights (that’d be 80,000K), is that too much? I can already grow just about anything. Right?
<Not anything.>
I’ve been looking at metal halide systems, since it’s been almost a year I’m due for new bulbs anyway. I can better afford a metal halide system now. All of the HQI (24 hour, 48 inch) fixtures and hoods I‘ve looked at have 2 – 10,000K daylight bulbs, I know with metal halide I’d have a heck of a lot less algae and that would mean less maintenance!
<The opposite is true here.>
But would it be beneficial for my critters to change the lighting? From 60,000K of fluorescent down to 20,000K of metal halide?
<?>
I don’t wish to spend the extra money if it isn’t beneficial or no sense to it, Any perks for switching?
<Depends.>
If not I’ll just save myself the few hundred bucks and only replace my current bulbs. All the research on pros and cons has only confused me further.
<Keep reading, it will become clear with time.>
Love that all of your guys are here for people like me. J
Thanks so very much in advance,
Rochelle
<Rochelle, I suggest you read more on this site and perhaps others regarding lighting, what is what, why, and the needs of your specific livestock. Good luck, Scott V.>

Lighting Bowfront 12/20/07
I have just purchased a 72 gal. bow front and need to light it for a reef aquarium. I want to use Metal Halide perhaps in combination with other lighting, but because of the bow there is only 12" of width at each end of the aquarium. I know I can use pendants or attached, but I had thought there is a light I could set on top of the aquarium with legs. Do you know of such a light or what my other options are for combination lighting?
Thanks.
<Several manufacturers make fixtures that will fit here. Aquamedic and Current just to name two that can use the mounting legs. Another option would be to get a pendant and mount it inside a canopy, but canopies for Bowfronts are usually flimsy and too shallow for this. Don’t discount the pendant idea, it can have an appealing look once installed and can be far cheaper. Keep in mind that actinics are not a must. Welcome, hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>

Re: Lighting Bowfront 12/21/07
I couldn't find any with legs on the Aquamedic site.
<Sexy series, mucho dinero.>
Just hang from the ceiling types. (My wife has said NO to that) And I can't find 'Current' at all doing a Google search. Is that the name of the company?
<Current USA http://www.current-usa.com/ >
(I did find a SunPod HQI that will work, but if you do know about another one I should check out, let me know.)
<Yes, they are made by Current USA. These are probably your best bet per your requirements. Just a thought, any of the hanging fixtures could work if you fabricate your own mounting legs. Have fun, Scott V.>

Switching lights 12/18/07
Good day crew,
<Hello.>
I short but quick question. I have a 75 gallon system that contains a pagoda, three clams, candy cane coral, BTA, Galaxea, Fiji spaghetti leather, various polyps, Zoanthids and various fish. Two of which are my favorite, mystery wrasse and a chevron tang.
<OK>
I currently use two 150 watt metal halide bulbs with two 96 watt actinic, and I wish to change to a light fixture whose information is below. Can you please give me a recommendation if this is ok, or stick with what I have. This claims to replace 400 watt metal halide 1-for-1. Thanks. A have a great holiday!
SPECS: 280 WATT 5900K, 96 C.R.I., Fixture lumen - Photopic 8,500, Fixture Lumens - Scotopic 65,500 and
http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/pupil_lumens.htm Visual Acuity Lumens Per Watt 230
Mark Formica
<Mark, I could not find the specific product you reference from the link. From what you describe it sound like it could work. Although this color spectrum may work, do realize that it will appear very yellow compared to most the reef lighting that is out there today. Dual 150 halides sounds perfect for your set up. I would stick with what you have and invest your money elsewhere. Happy reefing, Scott V.>

Re: Switching lights 12/19/07
Scott, I appreciate your help.
<Any time.>
This link has the light fixture that I had in mind. www.fullspectrumsolutions.com. The light fixture is called Ultralux HD.
<Ahh, found model no ULHBT5-646, this could work.>
Just looking to shave cost and the T5/T6 lighting is where I thought I could start. Do you have any other recommendations in lighting that I could switch too?
<The T5 could work here, do realize that these will probably not be water resistant end caps. Also, you will likely end up replacing some of the bulbs, most people would not be satisfied with the look of strictly 5900K lighting. You will just have to weigh power cost, bulb replacement cost and personal preference on the overall look of the tank to decide here.>
Thanks. A (passionate) hobbyist forever,
Mark Formica
<Welcome, great to hear! Scott V.>

Is wattage per gallon the best method? 11/30/07
Happy Holidays to you at WWM!
<And to you Dan>
I've been thinking about all of the advice given to reefkeepers regarding lighting needs of stony corals. The answer always seems to involve watts per gallon or watts per square foot of tank surface, regardless of lighting source (i.e., MH, NO, HO, VHO, PC). Something tells me that while this may be adequate, wattage alone not necessarily the best solution for optimum coral growth and health.< the wattage rules are for base guidelines only.>
Wouldn't it be better to recommend a solution that is stated in lumens per area or volume?
<This is why PAR readings listed on the by the manufacturers of the bulbs are so important. PAR is the most important for the photosynthesis.>
Would it also be a good idea to base the recommendation on the spectral needs of stony corals?< This is where the color spectrum of the bulb comes into play. The Kelvin rating indicates the color "temperature" of the bulb , but will also relay where in the color spectrum the bulb is. LED lighting by Solaris has the most stable, and correct spectrums for corals.>
I'm sure there are other variables, such as tank depth, color temperature, bulb type, differences between manufacturers' bulbs, etc. may come into play, but it seems some sort of charts or calculators can be developed to recommend poor/good/better/best/overkill lighting solutions based on whatever tank parameters are used as the basis for the calculations.<Dr. Sanjay Joshi has made many of these very charts. The problem is one bulb from one manufacturer will have different PAR readings from different ballasts. So it is very hard to say what spectrum and PAR you will actually be at from just the "Bulbs" perspective. My personal experience over the last 25 years has me to believe that 6500K bulbs offer the best growth rate, then 10,000k bulbs which also look whiter, then the 12-14,000K bulbs which are much bluer to the eye, and then finally the 20,000k bulbs which are the bluest. The 20,000K bulbs also do not last as long as the lower Kelvin bulbs and have lower PAR readings. Again, this is why the LED technology is so promising.>
I'm not sure whether this may be too complicated to resolve. Ideas?
<As technology continues to improve, there should be more progress in the LED market that will make the color spectrum and lamp choices much easier. Thanks-Rich.. aka.. Mr. Firemouth>
Dan

Light Hanging Question 11/18/07
Thanks for all the help on the issue of overheating. Leaving the top off and raising the light has helped and I've got a desk fan on the way to lower it even more.
<Awesome, am glad to help.>
I am probably going to have to build an automatic top off device to go with the sump though, as I'm having to top up about every 2 days or so (any advice on how to do that would also be appreciated).
<There are many do it yourself plans on the internet, one can be found at http://ozreef.org/diy_plans/electronic_projects/water_level_switch.html . Just keep in mind that you will be dealing with 110, not 240. I personally use and am a huge advocate of the Tunze water top off system. It is kind of pricey, but well worth it. It has an optical sensor that keeps your water level super consistent, an overflow sensor that shuts the unit off if activated, and it shuts the unit down if it is on for more than ten minutes at a time. Also, it comes with a 12V pump that will pump from a reservoir to the sump to top off. This limits your top off capacity to the reservoir, limiting flooding capacity. All this adds up to an extremely reliable top off system. I have personally replaced the pump in the kit with a 12V liquid solenoid hooked directly to my RO unit, I don’t like hauling water if I don’t have to.>
My primary question, though, is a rather simple one and I feel a bit ridiculous that I'm even asking given that there's probably a very easy explanation. I have the Current-USA Outer Orbit T5HO lamp hanging from my ceiling by the kit that it came with. In my zealousness to lower the temperature, I hoisted the thing up and it's now about 11 inches above the tank. It looks like there's a UFO hovering in my living room. So I'd like to lower it back down a little bit towards the 7-8 in. range and monitor to prevent overheating, but I can't seem to figure out how to do that. I know product questions aren't your usual schtick, but I thought one of you guys might have this setup and know what I'm talking about. As it is, I'm contemplating heading back to my LFS and getting another hanging kit for 10-20 bucks just so the family doesn't flip when they come over for Thanksgiving at the big THING floating in the air over the living room.
<That can certainly be unappealing, not to mention the value of being able to adjust the height of your light. The bracket that mounts to the ceiling has a little wire outlet in it. By pressing the wire outlet into the mount you should be able to slide the cable in and out to adjust the length. A PDF with instructions for the mount can be found at http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/metal_SunPod.htm
I hope this helps, have a nice Thanksgiving, Scott V.>

Re: Light Hanging Question 11/18/07
Miracle workers, all of you ;)
<Have just battled the same woes.>
Can't believe I hadn't figured out the lights before, but it worked and they look fantastic.
<Excellent, good to hear! >
Sent an e-mail off to Aqua-C about this last question since I know that's what you recommend, but in the meantime, just wondering if you have any advice. I set up a new Aqua-C EV120 in the same tank. I have a problem though. I've set it up and have it operating for bout 2 days now and after the first day, it started producing MASSIVE amounts of wet foam. So much so that I had to do what they initially suggested and put the outlet hose back into the sump. I figured this might be part of the break in process, but opened the gate valve all the way and it's still producing this volcano of wet foam a day later. Any advice? Is this normal?
Thanks!
Frank
PS Using a Mag 5 with it, for reference.
<Is it normal? Sometimes. Many times you will see the opposite during break in. You may want to try restricting the air intake on the skimmer and check the water level the skimmer sits in to see if it is within the recommended range. If you add supplements to your water or vitamins to your food it will very often make the skimmer go nuts like this. If all of the above is in order then just give it some time to settle in. Happy reefing, Scott V.>

Re: Marine Compatibility, and Cichlid Feeding Questions... Now either/or purch. of lambda or LR    11/14/07
Hello Bob,
<Eric>
Thank you for the help on both the Hawk and the Cichlid questions. It's always much appreciated. I have decided not to purchase the Flame hawk.
There are many reasons for this, and after reading I think there will be aggression issues with the Blenny and possibly others. ...and I really think I'm close to the 'stocking limit' for my FOWLR tank anyway. I do have another question, somewhat of a "this or that" situation. Here's a bit of background: In my 55 gallon FOWLR, I have about 40 lbs of live rock, a Whisper 60 filter, a Turboflotor Multi HOT skimmer, two powerheads (one with filter attachment) (both of which are pointed toward each other to ... at least somewhat.. randomize flow) and approximately one inch of sugar fine, live sand.
Here's the question: I have the opportunity to buy about 45-50 additional lbs of live rock from a fellow aquarist who is getting rid of his tank. It's in good shape, and he's asking $100 for it. I figure this is a great deal... considering most LFS sell theirs for +/- $8/lb. I have read a ton, and figure that I should have, as a rule, about 1-1.5 lbs of live rock per gallon.. Generally speaking of course. Adding this much live rock would push that a bit. I do want my fish to have ample swimming room, but also want them to have adequate biological filtration.
<Yes... and/but this is a 55... 13 inches wide... likely tall enough to stack this rock up... if it is dense...>
Should I use that money toward purchasing this rock, or spend the money on another good deal: a brand new 130 Watt PC light fixture for $110 from a reputable online retailer. I currently have the standard Fluorescent lighting that came with the tank, but I'd like my fish to have better illumination, as well as help the coralline algae grow on my live rock. (I'm also aware of testing for calcium, iodine, etc. levels in the tank, and keeping pristine water quality for this)
<Ah, good...>
Which, in your opinion, is the better usage of the $100 +/-? Unfortunately I don't have enough money to justify both. To be honest, I am leaning toward the lighting option, unless the 130 watts won't be sufficient to be aesthetically pleasing...at least a significant, really noticeable improvement over the lighting I currently have... which is somewhere near 35 watts, I believe?
<Mmm, a single four foot lamp of normal output would be 40 watts... two, 80 watts... but luminal output/appreciation is akin to comparing proverbial fruit types here... the new lighting will appear MUCH brighter>
(The two fish in particular I want to illuminate are my Blue Spot Toby and my Starry Blenny.. as well as the others.. if that makes a difference).
Again, thank you for your help! Eric
<Myself... unless you intend to trade up to a larger system soon (in which case I'd get the rock), I'd go for the new lighting. BobF>

Re: Do It Yourself Lighting Question...LOA Fixtures From HD? – 10/20/07
Eric,
<<Jim>>
Thanks for the quick reply. I appreciate it.
<<Quite welcome>>
And I checked--according to both the box and the website, the 85W and 100W versions are both 6500K.
<<Oh, excellent! I’ll have to look in to getting a couple of these higher wattage fixtures>>
Maybe that's new.
<<Maybe so>>
I was just about ready to begin setting this all up, when I came across an eBay listing for a MH/PC combo fixture for $330 (plus $70 S&H). It has 2x250W HQI and 2x96W PC Actinic.
<<This configuration would be quite suitable for your 150g tank…in my opinion>>
Now I am back to wondering what to do.
<<Up to you…but I vote for metal halide over PC fluorescent (the first choice in your original query) any day>>
I just want to make the best choice for my animals and for my wallet, but it seems like I am always trying to come up with the "alternative" instead of going with contemporary wisdom. Can you explain to me why MH is preferred above all else by most hobbyists?
<<Many hobbyists choose/use the different methodologies to good end…”this” hobbyist prefers metal halide for its greater punch/exceptional lumens-per-watt output, its aesthetics (single-point light source = glitter lines), and its versatility (differing combinations of wattage, Kelvin temperature, and bulb distance from the water make it suitable for “almost” any marine system>>
Is it just that MH was the first lighting solution with the intensity to grow corals in larger tanks, and people are still committed to it (the way I still use VHO's instead of PC/T5)?
<<I don’t think so, at least not these days. The viability of VHO/T5 systems is a fact>>
I have been told that MH has more "punch", that they penetrate deeper than the same wattage of VHO/PC.
<<Indeed>>
I don't know about wattage, but as someone who studied physics, it seems to me that 100 lumens/sq inch is 100 lumens/sq inch.
<<Yes…and a watt is a watt... but, how many watts of a specific lighting type does is take to create that 100 lumens/sq inch?>>
I don't see how the source of the light changes the quality or character of the light itself (other than temperature/spectrum).
<<Mmm, is more a question of the “strength” here…its ability to “penetrate” the water column. But do have a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/lightingags.htm>>
Or is the main reason MH seem to "penetrate" better is that they are generally higher temperature than fluorescents?
<<No…though color temperature does affect PAR in most cases>>
Is it just personal preference, or is MH really better?
<<A bit of both…it is “my” preference for the reasons stated…but as also stated, many hobbyists use other methodologies with very good success>>
And lastly, how can a person reasonably compare the intensity/quality of different lighting options to make an informed decision (and not one motivated purely by hype or vague impressions)?
<<Research the different options…chat with folks using re>>
Wattage seems to be a lousy criterion--150W of MH is definitely brighter than 150W of VHO.
<<But again, differing methodologies. They have their advantages for different reasons, and the side-by-side comparison only highlights their differences. Is up to you to decide which best suits you/your system. Likely either will work when applied correctly>>
It doesn't seem like 110W of VHO is the same as 110W of PC is the same as 110W T5, either.
<<Differences in style/quality of reflectors will also have a large impact>>
Is there some way (other than buy all four) to make an objective comparison?
<<As stated…by consulting with others using the differing lighting methods>>
I am sorry to bug you guys again, but I just want to understand.
<<Understood…but like many things in this hobby, this too is not a simple matter of “black and white.” Differences in tank size/depth, livestock selection (most important), even how clean or clear the water is can dictate the “best” lighting. I can only offer you “my” opinions and experience…as well as encourage you to seek info from differing sources to allow you to apply your own good judgment to make a decision>>
Thanks again for all your help,
Jim
<<Always welcome. EricR>>

Re: Aquarium lip 10/3/07
Thanks for the reply. I thought I'd let you know how I ended up handling this situation. What I did was buy a few 1/4" acrylic squares. Using aquarium safe silicon I attached them to the inside of the aquarium 1/8" down (level with the center bar) - I put on each side in the corners. In essence they function much like the little pegs that hold up adjustable shelves on the bookcases we are all familiar with (of course you can't adjust these so easily). I like the solution because it is invisible, smaller than a normal lip that runs all the way around and still lets me put my glass versa top cover on the aquarium (so I sit my lights on it, etc.)...
Terry
<Sounds good. Hope this works well. Not wild above cover glasses though. They cut out A LOT of light, especially by the time lime or salt builds up on them, as it will. Much better to do without. In which case, make sure you use water-proof light fittings though. If something goes wrong, it helps to know that the lights won't explode if they fall into the water! Cheers, Neale>

A Flicker Of Light...Is This The End of The Tunnel? – 09/23/07
I had a hard time finding the information I am looking for.
<<Okay>>
I apologize if this question is similar in content to others you have answered.
<<No worries>>
I have a 55-gallon reef tank that has been up and running successfully for two years.
<<Excellent>>
All parameters are normal; fish and corals thriving. I have a Current Satellite fixture that has been an excellent choice. However within the past six months the lamps (bulbs) on one of the ballast began to flicker.
<<Do swap bulbs around to determine this is not the problem>>
At first the flickering was temporary, then it became constant. I bought new lamps and this did not solve the problem. Then my boyfriend (an electrician) disassembled and reassembled the unit. It did not flicker again for about two weeks. Now it flickers randomly once or twice a week, maybe more, and I am not there to notice. Several opinions have me confused.
<<Oh?>>
One source told me that it was probably a loose wire, not to worry.
<<Mmm, possibly…but “is” a worry and should be found/fixed if so>>
Another told me that a new ballast was needed.
<<Another possibility, yes>>
Before I spend the money on a new ballast, is the now, temporary flickering, harmful and or indicative of a larger issue?
<<If this is a loose wire, the flickering may well prematurely wear the bulb or ballast…might even constitute a fire hazard>>
If it is, or was, a loose wire would a new ballast be of any benefit?
<<Only if replacing the ballast addresses the loose wire…otherwise you are no better off. You state your boyfriend is an electrician…I would think it a simple matter for him to determine the problem here>>
I tend to be a hypochondriac but it seems that my anemone may be "reaching" for light more than is usual.
<<The lamps are likely in need of replacement>>
Could the lamps be producing less light, without giving any visual indication?
<<Oh yes!>>
Is there any way to measure the light that the tank is receiving?
<<Indeed there is… To get a true reading of the Photosynthectically Available Radiation (PAR), or effectiveness, of your chosen bulbs you would need to invest in a PAR meter…and then one that has a waterproof sensor that can be submersed (not cheap/easily found…though an enterprising DIYer might rig one themselves). There is a waterproof LUX meter available in the trade for about a C-note. This meter will measure foot-candles (brightness/luminance) at a specific distance and if readings are taken on new bulbs, they can be used as a “benchmark” to measure diminished luminance with age…
Any input would be most appreciated.
Thank-you.
<<Quite welcome. EricR>>

So confused on lighting my 210gallon tank. Lighting/Heating/Energy Issues...Which Lighting System Is Best? – 07/23/07
Hi all!
<<Howdy Nick!>>
Love your site and have read countless Q&A's from it, but it all seems to just confuse me when it comes to the right lighting.
<<Oh?>>
I am new to saltwater aquariums and have a 210-gallon acrylic tank (72" long x 24" wide x 30" high) with a 50-gallon sump (40"x18"x16").
<<Neat!>>
The canopy only has 5.5" of vertical space in it when the hinged top is closed.
<<Mmm...not enough clearance for halides in my opinion...looks like VHO or T5s might be your best option if you plan to use this hood>>
Currently there is nothing in the tank except water and sand. I need to finish lighting (and most likely chilling) the tank before I want to add livestock.
<<Okay...but “what” livestock? You should decide this before choosing/purchasing your lighting>>
I plan on keeping fish, live-rock, and eventually easy invertebrates (those that don't require super water movement and light output).
<<Light output will be variable, indeed...but virtually ALL require good water movement>>
I read that I would need 3-5watts per gallon for that setup, so around 600-1000watts of light.
<<Again...you need to be specific about what you want to keep>>
Now to my questions. I am SO confused about what I should do to light my tank. I don't want to spend $1000's on a system, and I certainly do not want a high electric bill from my lighting each month (nor does my mother).
<<Then research the animals you think you want and design/setup a system that does not require lots of high-intensity lighting>>
I have read some things saying MH's are the most cost-efficient in the long run, but then I hear that they are costly each month in terms of electric bills.
<<No more costly than any other lighting which consumes the same wattage. And I agree they provide the best look/bang for the buck>>
As far as fluorescent PCs, T5's, etc... I don't know if they will be strong enough for a tank of my height.
<<Goes back to “what you plan to keep”>>
Heat is also a concern. My tank right now is at 88 degrees F, with no lights at all!
<<Some hot running pumps/equipment, eh?>>
Ambient room temp is kept at 75-80degrees? All I have is an Iwaki 70RLT pump circulating the water from my sump to the tank. (I was told Iwaki's are great, but didn't think they would boil my water like that!)
<<And it shouldn’t be...sounds like something else may be at play here>>
So, even without lighting, I am going to need a chiller.
<<As it is now...yes>>
Unless there is a better pump on the market I should get?? One that won't cause so much heat.
<<Iwaki is one of the best...is this pump new? You might consider an exchange if possible. This pump should not be heating your tank like this. Do also investigate that something else isn’t amiss somewhere>>
Other things specific to MH that confuse me:
Magnetic vs. Electronic ballasts- A WWM crewmember said this- "<the benefits of electronic ballasts are a figment of marketing imagination>" and in an answer to a comment by a reader: "So far, the electronic ballast is much more efficient in terms of energy, heat, and bulb life." he answered: <not even close to being true by one expert I am aware of (unbiased, unpaid and very convincing> (this comes from http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mhmedsysfaqs.htm)
<<Opinions vary...I prefer the E-ballasts because they are weigh less, draw less power, and generate less heat than the magnetic ballasts...in my opinion/experience>>
But then I have seen other WWM crewmembers say that electronic are much better than magnetic...
<<In some aspects maybe...but the magnetic ballasts are generally less expensive to purchase...and many believe the “get more” out of the bulbs they power>>
It is just a huge mind bending area!
<<Just keep reading my friend>>
I've been looking at possibly getting 2-3 250-watt pendants to suspend over my tank, then I had read that pendants aren't good because they don't spread the light out.
<<Was/is largely true with the “vertical” pendants of past years, but today’s “horizontal” pendants don’t have the same limitations>>
I was looking at IceCap 250 HQI Pendant and Ballast (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12780&prodid=25174&catid=115) or something like OceanLight HQI 250 (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12112&prodid=23526&catid=115).
<<Either would be fine...my choice would be the IceCap gear>>
Or for fluorescents I was considering 2 Orbit Compact 36" 384watts, though a bit on the pricey side (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=15690&N=2004+113345).
<<Indeed...and again, would likely serve>>
Also, in terms of heat given and electricity used... Wouldn't a 750w fluorescent system equal a 750w MH system? They are both using 750watts of energy aren't they?
<<Yes and yes>>
Or, for example, do 750watt fluorescents just use 50% of the watts as actual electricity, etc?
<<No>>
Then I was considering just doing an IceCap retrofit, but I don't have enough space in my canopy to install them and still keep them 6"+ above the water. (I heard you need lights to be more that 6-8" above the water, and my canopy only has a total of 5.5" of space in it.)
<<A bit cramped, agreed>>
While with a pre-made fixture, I can just take off my canopy's hinged top and use docking mounts or pendant mounts for the lights. I also was thinking it would be better to get 2 or more smaller fixtures than 1 big 72" light. (So I won't have to move one huge light out of the way every time I need access to the water, etc. Easier to move 2x 36" units than one heavy 72" all the time)
<<Agreed>>
Once I get my lighting I can see how hot my tank gets so I can size a chiller as my next step.
<<I still think something is very wrong re your tank temperature...are you certain the measuring device is accurate?>>
Thanks for any help you can give!
Nick
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Metal halides and T5 brands   6/13/07
Hello Crew,
<Michele>
I tried to send this to the chat forum, but could not log on. I apologize if I missed the answer in the archives. I am trying to purchase new lights for my husband for Father's day....yep, last minute, probably going to have to wrap up a picture instead of the actual lights!
<Heee! Good idea>
Anyway, I want to avoid the cheaper non-brand name lights, but I am having trouble knowing what the best brand is! We are in process of upgrading from a 90 to a 220 gallon reef with primarily SPS and fish (2 tangs, 1 Rabbitfish, 2 clowns, 1 mandarin). My husband has requested 3-250 watt 10,000 K retro metal halides and 4-36 watt retro T5s. Any suggestions for a good brand name? Ice cap? Hamilton? Coralife?
<These are actually all re-packaged, re-labeled products... Not made by these folks... But of these three, the first two are better investments... Such gear buys are better researched ala "Consumer Reports", i.e., by querying on a BB re many users experiences concerning function, longevity, cost per performance and issues such as customer service... Our archived input on these can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
at the bottom trays...>
Thanks for any assistance.
Michele
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Another Aquarium Lighting Question – 6/8/07
Dear Sirs <and Madams>,
I have recently purchased a 46 gallon acrylic bowfront tank. I have just begun in this hobby and have been poring over articles and FAQs, besides taking advice from our local shop. <It is a hobby of life-long learning indeed!> Unfortunately, every bit of information seems different, and occasionally even contrary. <A very frustrating phenomenon. The more you learn and experience, you will start to sort the junk from the gems more easily.> I have made effort to contact you because I find your website helpful and apparently knowledgeable. <We try. Thank you.>
Here is where I am. I have a 46 gallon bowfront with an overflow box and sump (AMiracle Advanced SL Trickle Filter), a SeaClone 100 protein skimmer <Not very effective. Some find them acceptable with major DIY modifications. I gave up on mine. Does it produce skimmate for you?>, and a Coralife 36" 2x96 PC light (one actinic and one 10000k) - Deluxe Lunar Fixture. <A nice fixture, I have the 48” version.>
My question is regarding lighting, corals, and additional equipment.
Currently I am planning a mini-reef. Will this amount of lighting accomplish the job? <This will be fine for many soft corals and LPS.> And if I decide on SPS corals will I need more light? <It is borderline. Some would say to replace the actinic with another daylight bulb to give more useable light. I like the color with the actinic. Maybe try a small frag of your desired coral and see how it does. This is a reasonable amount of wattage, and I think metal halide fans underestimate the PC’s sometimes. You may need to put some specimens higher up on the rocks.> Finally, what sorts of additional equipment should I plan on eventually installing/purchasing if I wanted to keep plenty of healthy SPS corals. <Number one is a real protein skimmer. Lots of live rock and a deep sand bed for denitrification. If a DSB is not for you, I also had great success with a small plenum and lots of live rock with a moderate depth sand bed. Refugiums are also great additions to reef tanks. Oh, and a supply of clean water - so if you don't have exceptional water quality, a RO/DI water purification system or some other means of having plenty of clean water.>
And while I'm at it, the aquarist I frequent instructed me to put down about a half inch of substrate at the bottom of the tank, which I did, do I need more? <This is fine for appearance and buffering, but won’t help with denitrification. If you aren’t having a nitrate problem, then it is fine.>
Sincerely,
Carl VerPlanck
<Cheers, Alex Miller>

Lighting Question, wherefore art thou measures?    5/24/07
Hi all...
On many sites that sell corals and in books lighting is usually stated in terms of "low", "moderate", and "high".  But exactly how are those defined?
<Various ways by different writers... the best measures are PAR related, measured at the point of intercept by the colonies... See the works (many on the Net) of Sanjay Joshi and Dana Riddle here>
I have two saltwater tanks one 20 gallon and one 10 gallon but both are identical in height/water depth.  The 10 gallon has been upgraded from 40 watts PC 50/50 to 80 watts PC 50/50 and the 20 gallon has a 65 watt PC 50/50 (which I don't want to spend additional money changing lighting).  I consider both to be between moderate to low lighting for the depth of the tanks.
<I agree with the low end>
Both lights on those tanks are on legs which raises the lighting about 4 inches from the water.  Although I've read about "watts per gallon" I find this difficult to understand when tanks are identical in depth.  With that calculation it would appear my 10 gallon tank is getting 8 watts per gallon and the 20 gallon is getting only 3 watts per gallon.
<Mmm, yes... but/and the actual useful photonic energy available at/near the organism in question is really the only valid measure... Many factors involved... other than rating, consumption values for fixtures/lamps... angles of dispersion, color in the water, reflector use... among others. See the Net re PAR meters, measures...>
Just a note: the upgrade in the 10 gallon from 40w to 80w was because the two very small xenia that came on Nerite snail shells purchased the first week of March have now split into 8 not so small xenia and all are headed to the top of the tank. So I sort of hoped higher lighting might keep the ones lower in the tank happy where they are.... just a thought.
<What do folks say re Billy.G/Microsoft?: "Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated". Applies to many Xeniid systems>
  Anyway, a greater understanding of those lighting terms for corals will help me make the right decisions for the 20 gallon.  My sun corals have been moved to the 20 gallon since the xenia now leave me little room for handling them in the 10 gallon.  Again, thank you so much for this site and everyone's assistance.  Regards, Debbie
<Mmm, much that can/could be discoursed here. Deb, do you participate in a local marine/reef club? I do think you'd be very happy to be face to face, mind to mind (in semi-real time) in such an association. BobF>

VHO - vs. MH; Lighting Choices, Types and Temperature 4/26/07
Hello crew,
<Hi.>
I hope all is well.
<Thank you.>
Thanks again for this great site and all the help.
<Welcome.>
I have a question about lighting.
<Okay.>
I have a 120gal acrylic (48"x24"x24") that has been setup and running for about a year now. (also a 55 upstairs that has been up and running for about 7 years) I have been running VHOs (2ea, 4' AquaSun, 4' Actinic/White (URI) and 3' Actinic). My green zoas have turned a reddish brown and my metallic pink zoas have also turned a bit dim. I was wondering if it is the light or if it's the micro-vert that I put in the tank? (assuming more the light than anything)
<Could be a combination of both, what are your phosphate and nitrate levels? How old are the light bulbs?>
I recently bought a 6' Odyssea (I know, not the best brand) MH/PC setup, tore it all apart, and shortened it to 4'. I now am running all 3 MH over my tank.
<Yes, this could be a reaction by the animals to cope with the new abundance of intense light.>
Each bulb is a 250w 20K bulb. The bulbs are 11-12" above the water.
<How did you acclimate the animals to the new lighting?>
I tossed the PC lights they were not working anyway and being in the same fixture, at 12" over the water, I figured they wouldn't do much good.  Will the 3 20K MH bulbs be Ok, or should I swap out one or more of the bulbs for 10K or 15K bulbs? (or drop to 2 MH and add a couple VHO back in?)
<I would prefer to see the MH's remain in a 6500k to 10,000k range and if you want a "bluer" look then supplement with a fluorescent bulb of your choice...anything but PowerCompacts.>
I do want the nice vibrant colors bit also want my corals healthy. I have some Hammer coral, a Frogspawn, some Kenya tree, Toadstool Leathers, Mushrooms, Zoas, Colt coral, green and pink star polyps and a bubble coral.
<One more question from me; Why did you switch to the MH? Do you plan on keeping more light demanding creatures in the future?>
Take care, Mike
<You as well, Adam J.>

Kelvin/Incandescence ratings...   4/21/07
Can you explain to me what the different colors and K's do?
What would they be best used for?
White 7100k is for?
blue 12000k is for?
pink 800k is for?
thank you
<The practical value of such ratings is covered on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
In essence, there are "temperatures" that are of utility for engendering photosynthesis... starting at about 5,500K... "Warmer" lights for looks, bluer for depth... Bob Fenner>

Upgrading Lighting and Coral Compatibility... part msg./reply   4/15/07
Sorry my name is Joe.
<Mmm, why sorry Joe?>
It looks like you got cut up when replying something, starting as "wife are not a problem...". I couldn't make out exactly what you  
were saying, other than mentioning a lighting fixture.
<Strange...>
Also, the only problem with adding a fixture is that my tank is 30 inches  in length, and wasn't sure to get a 24" with strong light or a 36".
<The two-footer>
I wouldn't be sure if it wouldn't fit or would be too big. How many watts was that one fixture you suggested?  
Thanks again,
Joe
<Need to see the previous correspondence... there are twenty or so of us here... Don't know if this is for fresh, marine... a reef, for aquaculture, what type of life, purpose/s... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the bottom/last tray... on Marine Aquarium Lighting. Bob Fenner>

Crew, I have a general lighting question   - 4/7/07
I have a large clam, a hammer coral, a candy cane, numerous polyps and mushrooms, with over 100lbs. of live rock..  All have been in my 135 tank for over 3 years now.  All doing well.  I currently have VHO bulbs over my tanks, as follows:
10K
50/50
03 actinic
Everything is thriving.  I have been told by my LFS, that by adding more actinic, that this will encourage coralline algae to grow.  Is this true?
<Mmm, sort of... actually just cutting down on the "white" lighting will favor this group of Red algae over other photosynthetic/competing life>
For the first 2 years, I only had the 10K and 03 actinic, and it was everywhere.  In my third year, I added the 50/50 bulb.  and have very little coralline in my tank now.  Should I remove the 50/50 and replace with another type of bulb?
<Mmm, maybe... but could be other things at play here... >
What would you recommend.
<To read re Corallines: http://wetwebmedia.com/corallinealg.htm
and the related FAQs linked above... and mostly consider replacing, adding to your calcareous material (Rock and Substrate)... and measure for alkalinity, Magnesium balance>
I also have a 55-gallon tank I'm thinking about setting up again, and was considering using power compacts.
<Mmm, do look into VHO's, T-5's and...>
  I've read a lot of the FAQ's on your site, but I can't get an honest answer.
<Mmm, not to accuse you of being disingenuous... but all of our responses/inputs are honest>
Which are better for the over all health of the tank?  VHO or power compacts?
<The former IMO>
One LFS says one thing, Another says the opposite.  Or is there any combination that you would recommend.   If I stay with the VHO, what would be the best combination of bulbs to use?
Thanks,
Chris
<Let's skip ahead here... the best thing for you to do period would be to read what is posted on WWM, elsewhere, and make up your own mind re the facts presented. Bob Fenner>

Re: Crew, I have a general lighting question   4/9/07
Thank you Mr. Fenner.  Let me apologize.  What I meant by not being able to get an honest answer, I meant, as to which is better.  VHO or PC.  At your recommendation, I'll stick with the VHO set up's I have.
<Ah, real good. Thank you for this clarification. BobF>

Need help with lighting choice for my first Salt Water Tank   3/21/07
Hello
<Hi there.>
I'm setting up my first salt water tank.  
<Good for you.>
Have everything except for the lights.  
<As far as I am concerned this is one of the most critical choices that you have.>
I have a 53gallon Elos tank (30.5" x 19.5" x19.5") and I will have soft corals and fish.  Haven't decided if I'd like a clam or two, but clams aren't a priority, and I could do without them if it makes a big difference on lighting choices.  NO SPS or Anemones.  
<The clams will need Metal Halides.>
I know I want a 24" T5 light.  But....do I need 4, 5 or 6 bulbs?
<I would say 6 24" bulbs, two 10,000K, two 50/50, and two Actinic 03 blue.>
Would 4  24w bulbs be enough for my set up?  Who makes a good light with individual reflectors?  I'd prefer a built in fan too.
<I have never been a fan of T5, PC, or VHO.  I like MH, and that is what I will stay with.>
I've been looking at the Aquactinics, Sunlight Tek-Light, and Helio Lights.
<I will say that I have heard good things about Helio.>
Any others that I should be looking at?  It's not always clear if they have individual reflectors or not.  And lastly...what would you recommend for bulbs?   I don't want the tank too blue.  
<Please see above.>
I want it to look pretty natural without the light looking too white or too blue.  Maybe white with a hint of blue.
<This will be the most eye pleasing.  Please see here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/T5fluorFAQs.htm, as well as here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm.  I hope that this helps.>  
Thanks so much!
<You are welcome.  Brandon.>
Pam
Thanks Brandon!!
<You are most welcome.  Please feel free to share the outcome with us.  Brandon.>
Pam

Aquarium lighting question, SW, vague  - 3/12/07
I am in the process of setting up an aquarium, I want to make sure my lighting is sufficient to accommodate most corals and anemones.  I was going to use a 3 light system inside my canopy.  2 - White Actinic (50% 7100k & 50% 6000k) VHO 48" 110 Watt Bulbs & 1- 100% actinic 03 solid Blue, VHO 48" 110 Watt Bulb.  
Would this be sufficient lighting for a 48"long X 24" deep, 70 gal tank?
<This really depends on what types of corals you want to keep.  For most soft corals yes this would work.  I would not recommend anemones in this system.  You will most likely need more light than this for anemones.  Depending on the ballast, I would say three 48" 110 watt, Full spectrum 10k, and one 110 watt, actinic 03.  Or conversely, you could go with metal halide, and not have to worry about actinic, and be able to keep everything.  Please see here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm.  Brandon>

Coralife HOB 150 watt HQI Fixture   3/2/07
Bob,
<James>
I received above fixture yesterday.  Decided to upgrade my lighting as my LFS always has beautiful Monti fragments available that I could not keep with my previous fixture (twin 65  PCs).
I must say that this fixture has to be the bargain of the century.  It attaches to the back wall of the aquarium by plastic/nylon screws.  It has a cooling fan built into the fixture which is dead quiet, and also comes with a 14K lamp.
I'm not a fan of canopies as they are a pain every time you want to get into the tank for maintenance or any other reason, along with heat issues, and this sure fills the bill.  Have a gander here if you wish. 
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=13922&prodid=27192&catid=115
Am going to set up a 29 in the basement with the PC lighting, and propagate yellow polyps which are getting way out of hand in my display tank.  My dealer agreed to take all I can supply him with. 
 James
<I sense an article coming on... With pix! BobF>

About one of your articles on lighting and marine inverts   2/20/07
Mr. Fenner,
I must say, in a hobby where its hard to get direct answers, its nice to know someone/people are willing to give out the answers, and I thank you.  Anyhow, recently I read an article on your website  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
Title: Marine Lighting: Quantity Quality and Duration.  In it you gave the recommendation for "reef-building organisms"  is 50-100 lumens per gallon.  The 18" vita-lite T8 Fluorescent light bulb is 610 lumens.  This bulb is only 15Ws.  However according to your article for a 10gallon tank this light fixture should be good enough for reef building organisms.  e.g. 10x50= 500 lumens. (the 10G tank is used as a sump, but I am interested in growing macroalgae so I'm looking into fixtures.)  I am sure I missed a fact somewhere, because from everyone I talk to, I need a stronger light fixture and more watts.  Any help in this matter would be appreciated.
-Joe Coov
<You are correct... this is an ancient piece... Dura/Vita-lite has been out of business for years... I would go with similar high CRI, color temp. lamps of a few (2,3 times) more intensity nowadays for this application. Bob Fenner>

Company information, Need to contact Odyssea. - 02/11/2007
Hey crew,
<Hi Brandon, Mich here.>
Since you know all... and I mean ALL!
<Mmm, not all my friend.>
I have been searching everywhere for company information of Odyssea lights. I have a problem with my ballast that is only 6 months old but can not find company information anywhere. Every search I try just takes me to e-bay! Do you have a website, address, phone number in your rolodex anywhere?
<Mmm, you might try contacting someone who distributes this company's products.  You might try here:  http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?txtSearch=odyssea&PageAction=PRODSEARCH&btnSearch2.x=7&btnSearch2.y=10  >
Any help would be awesome!
<Hope this helps.  -Mich>
Brandon