Lighting Question 3/27/04
Hello Again Crew,
<howdy>
Once again thank you for all of your priceless insight!  I have a little bit of a lighting situation on my hand.  I have a 45G system with LR, LS, one Lime Green Leather, some green polyps, and one small mounted Acropora Frag.
<a very odd and unnatural mix. These will be challenging to all keep healthy if/when they mature (the leather is highly noxious... the Starpolyp is extremely aggressive... and the Acropora may require lighting very different from the others). Please do endeavor to keep animals with more similar needs/tolerances if not a natural biotope>
During my original setup, none of these were planned, and my original lighting proved that...96W VHO 50/50 Coralife Aqualite.  I just finished building a wood canopy, and installed twice the wattage of lighting (96W 10,000K VHO, and 96W
Actinic VHO) in the canopy.  
<this is on par with the 4-5 watts per gallon minimum for most/many reef cnidarians... although this scheme has more blue than most corals need (the actinics on 10k K being somewhat of a waste (aesthetics aside). Your corals would be much better served by a heavier daylight colored scheme>
Due to space concerns I will not be using the original lighting, just using this upgraded canopy, and the 192 watts installed in
it.  Before I even install and begin to use the new canopy and lighting, I am trying to figure out how to ease my system into the new (DOUBLE) wattage.
<please do keyword searches online (wetwebmedia.com archives, reefcentral.com, etc) for my suggestions with the "screen method": gist of it being the employ of a dozen or more sheets of fiberglass fly screen between the lights and the canopy/aquarium surface and used in a stack to shade light... pulling a sheet away every day or other>
Currently the 96 total watts I am using now comes on around 2:30PM and goes off at around midnight (9 1/2 total hours).  With the new lighting I can control both the Actinic and the 10,000K separately.  I would like to have the Actinic come on before the 10,000K and go off after the 10,000K to simulate the dawn/dusk.  I also use one of Marc Weiss' single unit moonshine lights which come on about an hour after all the lights have gone out, and goes off around 9AM.  I know it may sound like I am rambling on here, but I want to go about it the right way so my corals, and my coralline are NOT burned out.  I am not planning on any more corals in this system, but I have been thinking about a small
clam.  Would it be smart with the wattage I am using?  Any thoughts, concerns or ideas on how to ease the new lighting into the system. Thanks ~ Steve
<no worries... and like so many topics, we have good coverage IMO of this subject in articles and FAQs in our archives. Please do take the time to read and research at greater length:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
many links to follow from this link. Kindly, Anthony>

Lighting Configurations 
Awesome site. Great info. 
<Glad that you enjoy it! Scott F. here today!> 
I’m in process of setting up a 84x24x24 reef tank and am trying to use “stuff” from other excursions over the years. I have two six foot Hamilton fixtures that I’ve taken out of the cabinets (in order to use as retrofits). One is 3 x 175 MH with two regular fluoros 48w, the other is 2 x 175 MH with two regular fluoros. 
My question is what can I house (backwards I understand) with this intensity of lighting? Is it adequate for most corals or will I have limitations? I plan on fixtures being 12 inches from top of tank…maybe 13 to 14 inches from water. Have five Coralvue 12k bulbs for MH now but can change. 
<Well, with the wattage of lighting that you mention, and the distance from the water that you site, I suppose that you'd be able to maintain many of the less demanding-to-moderately-demanding SPS corals, and virtually any LPS or soft coral, and all but the more light-demanding clams, if mounted high enough. Keep in mind that any captive lighting system has limitations, of course. Of course, you certainly don't want to mix all of these animals in the same tank! Well- you might WANT to- but it's not a good idea, for reasons outlined numerous times on this site!> 
Second question is do I gain or lose anything based on my current magnetic ballast or will I gain anything going to electronic ballasts? I don’t mind changing ballast if it’ll get my anything long term. 
<Personally, I think that electronic ballasts are more efficient, less expensive to operate in the long run, and tend to drive bulbs more towards their "designed" spectral output. There are many points of view on this one, but that's my personal opinion.> 
I plan on have a ½ HP chiller, and am doing a pretty extensive venting to outside duct to attic. 
<Cool! Literally! Do make sure that you contact a qualified contractor to make sure that your venting is safe and complies with local building codes. You certainly don' want to burn the house down while trying to cool your tank!> 
So I’ll have two magnetic ballast, nice size Sequence pump, chiller exhaust under cabinet. 
<Sounds neat to me!> 
Any help would be appreciated…..most retailers give me answer according to what is in inventory. 
<Yep- that happens a lot!> 
Thanks, Jimmy 
<Well, Jimmy- sounds like you're on the right path- just experiment with the bulbs to make sure that they are of correct spectrum for the animals that you intend to keep...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

How do we determine proper lighting? - 4/9/04 
Have one quick question that I forgot to ask you the other day. <OK> On a argument with people that I know that argue for wattage or spectrum your opinion would you say that on lighting that it's more important to have high wattage or a light with low wattage, but has high spectrum output. <Well, I believe that it is more complex then high or low wattage etc. It is about the amount of PAR/spectrum available for the process of photosynthesis to occur in coral. In my experience, to get the PAR needed for sufficient photosynthesis it just happens to be in the high end bulb technology and fixtures that run them. The wattage of the light is really irrelevant in reality. New technology seems to drive the There are so many articles written on this subject that it almost isn't an argument anymore. Please do give a look through a few of these links on our site: 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm  
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm  
http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/s/b/sbj4/aquarium/article-list.htm  (these articles listed here are fairly high end and scientific but are proven research papers in my opinion> 
Thanks a lot, I don't know what I would do without you guys (and ladies). <Hopefully do more research on your own> Thanks to you I am the only 8th grader who has 4 tanks: 46gal saltwater reef, 30gal fresh, 10gal fresh, parrot fish tank, 5gal female Betta tank ,and soon to be a 90gal saltwater reef tank. Great job! ~Paul>

Natural sunlight 5/4/04
Hi guys-  I am a new marine tank enthusiast just starting up a reef tank and your website has been invaluable in helping me.  So, a big thank you to you all!!!  I have also just recently purchased Anthony's book on coral propagation and it's amazing as well.
<Glad you have benefited from the site and from Anthony's book.  Both are indeed excellent resources!>
My question actually comes from his chapter on lighting and more specifically, Natural Lighting.  Given the opinion of Anthony that "there is no comparison..." [between natural sunlight and artificial in terms of benefit], I have am seriously leaning towards going that route (not only for the benefits of the reef,
but also for the pocket book).  Our house has a conservatory (almost every house in New Zealand has one) and I think it would be a great place to take advantage of the sunlight as well as overall enjoyment.
<I agree totally with the superiority of natural sunlight and I am quite jealous that you have the opportunity to use it for your reef tank!>
I brought this topic up with my LFS and they not only brought up the "common myth that sunlight causes algae",
<An absurd myth to be sure!  In the presence of nutrients, any light source will grow algae.>
but also proposed four additional concerns/problems, (1) something about the number of glass panes the sun will have to penetrate significantly reduces the useful light spectrum,
<Passing through several panes of glass will reduce the intensity and will alter the spectrum, but not beyond usefulness.  You may have to supplement with some blue fluorescents to produce a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. A light meter will be very useful in assessing light intensity under different conditions (cloudy days, winter, etc.)>
(2) being so low in latitude, we don't get intense enough beneficial sunlight,
<High latitude, actually (equator is 0).  This is ridiculous.  Temperate greenhouse coral farmers have to use shade cloths in the summer and some have even painted the roofs of their greenhouses to protect against OVER illumination.  Do realize light attenuation through water is huge, and your corals will be in inches of water compared to feet or meters on the reef.>
(3) the fluctuations in temperature will be hard to control given the close proximity to the elements, and
<This may be a concern.>
(4) with the depletion of the ozone layer in the southern hemisphere, the UV is so intense that it would be damaging, if not deadly, with continuous exposure.
<I doubt this will be a concern.  Ordinary glass attenuates UV quite well, so after passing through multiple panes, the UV levels should be well decreased.>
In your opinion, how valid are these concerns?  Are there other issues that I should be worried about?
<If cloudy days are numerous, and in the winter, you may have to consider some supplemental light.  A light meter should probably be considered mandatory equipment to make appropriate decisions here.>
If in your opinion the conservatory is still a good option, another concern is that the optimal placement of the tank (decided by the decoration constraints put down by my wife) does not allow for afternoon direct sunlight.  Will I need to supplement with artificial lighting for these hours?    
<Ahhh... the ultimate consideration!  This decision really requires a light meter.  Compare the readings on a variety of days, times of day and conditions (take notes!) to a friends artificially lit tank.>
Thanks for all your help, Steve
<Glad to!  In case you didn't pick up on this...  get a light meter!<g>.  The human eye doesn't cut it.  Good luck with this outstanding plan!  Best regards, Adam>

Lighting and electricity cost
Hi there Crew!!
<Joe>
Just want to make a statement about the pitfalls of halide lighting. I talked my wife into letting me get an AquaSpacelight dual 250 10000k and 150 20000 k system. a really nice light. well, we got our first electric bill since hanging this bad boy and holy cr-p!!!. Almost twice as month as this time last year!! I assume it is the light that is costing the extra $60.00 per month in juice. How do you calculate the energy used with these fixtures??
<Multiply the volts (likely 110 if you're in the U.S.) times the amps consumed (either can be read off of spec.s, or from the ballast/s, or measured with a meter...) and the number of hours used per day... times thirty or so days in a month... divide by one thousand (to give you kilowatt hours)... and multiply this times the charge your utility company is billing you per kilowatt-hour. Voila! Yes, energy use outdistances all other costs combined in the reef hobby eventually. Bob Fenner>

Looking for T5 lighting technology 5/3/04
Thanks for the response.
<always welcome>
I know what you mean about the anemone.  It is a just a thought right now. :-)
<please resist or do dedicate proper space (species specific tank and guards from other cnidarians, overflows, intakes, etc). Anemones do require special care>
How much power do MHs consume on a monthly basis?  
<watts is watts, my friend... at least as far as power consumption is concerned. What your hardware does with those kilowatts is another story and the reason why halides are a better value for aquarists with deeper tanks. 200 watts of fluorescent over a 30" tank does not deliver the same amount of light (they are much weaker) to corals kept at depth. But halides can punch through the water deeper... hence the "bang for your buck" argument for halides>
Got a chart on that or a formula?  
<ahhh... no. <G>. But you can fin such data in the works of others. Look up Sanjay Joshi on the WetWeb>
My fear with MHs is they'll suck up my wallet on electricity alone.  That's why I was wondering about T5s.  
<T5s will work to your advantage if you tank is shallow (24" or less) and you simply do not need the big guns of a MH then>
But I seriously won't be doing any coral raising in this tank.
<MH has the added advantage of producing glitter lines/god beams... a very nice aesthetic>
Depending on how high I can get a rock formation, I might consider a low light coral/shroom, but no more than that.  I can't remember where I saw a chart for light recommendations showing how deep certain light types penetrate.  
<very few fluorescents are much good (coral growth) beyond 10" or so... 16" max>
That may help me figure out what I need when I get this thing set up.
<best of luck, Anthony>

Lighting Upgrade -want your advice 5/3/04
Hi, this question is for Anthony Calfo if possible:  Anthony, I love your book on coral propagation.  Any chance for a part-2?
<thanks kindly... yes, indeed. Next year right after we finish NMA v. 2 currently>
Anthony, I want your advice on a lighting change I am considering.  I currently have 2 175Watt Ushio 10ks and 2 URI VHO actinics over my 75 reef with mostly SPS corals.  
<excellent outfit>
The colors of the corals in the top 1/3 of the tank have great color and ok to slow growth (outstanding purples and blues and good greens).  
<the growth has much more to do with (not enough or right kind of) water flow and not lighting>
Some of my SPS in the lower 2/3s of the tank do not seem to be as colorful (Greens are a little faded).  I replaced my bulbs after only 6 months and I was shocked at how much more powerful the new bulbs were over the old.  My colors of my SPS also improved from the new bulbs.
<very nice>
My question is I am considering going to 2, 250 Watt Double ended AB 20k run in two of the new ocean pendants.  This would give me only 2 bulbs to replace.  I would be losing some overall wattage but would I get more light to the corals (and better color).
Please advise as you have been so helpful in the past. Thanks
Andrew
<double ended HQI lamps are quite excellent (quality of light overall) and you do not need fluorescent actinic with them... of course, you do not need it with the Ushios or any modern lamp 6500k  or higher. Actinics are just for aesthetics. My concern is that 20K is too blue for many corals. If you favor SPS, then you will not likely be served as well by blue lamps... go for 6500 - 10k K. But if you favor deep water LPS and soft corals/polyps... then the 20k K will be very good. Anthony>

T-5's or VHO?
I think this guy should either talk his wife into halides or get T5's.  I can't believe you think VHO's are better than T-5's, but anyway it seems almost impossible to get VHO or Power Compact technology outside the US so I don't think they're an option for him (or me).<< Yeah that is a tough one.  I still think VHO out perform T-5's if you are comparing like 5 bulbs to 5 bulbs.  What is great about T-5's is that the small size allows you to put like 7 T-5's where only 5 VHO would fit.  In that case, I'd have to consider T-5's.  But I don't really have a strong preference either way. >>  Almost the biggest PC you can get in Europe is an 11 Watt!  I've seen the bigger ones for sale only very rarely, and getting bulbs is very difficult.
I don't know what the deal is with the US and T5, but the units I've seen had some very poor reflector designs, which is totally key to this
technology. << Ah, that might be the case.  Good point, I'm glad you brought this up.  And I too agree, that it is worth the investment to halides. >>
cheers
Wayne
<<  Thanks, Blundell  >>

Lighting 101 - 2/3/04
Dear WWM Crew,
I find your site to be an excellent source of information. <Thank you for being part of it all> Unfortunately, I've searched through pages of FAQ's and the internet, but cannot find the definitive answer I'm seeking. <Hmmmmm...OK> I'm confused about lighting for aquariums. <Well, this is a well documented area in reef literature and reef forums alike but not easily understood.>
Currently, I have a 75G FOWLR aquarium. <OK> As soon as I get the nitrates under control, I would like to add a few corals or mushrooms. <Well, how you light your aquarium will depend on what light requiring animals you plan to keep> However, if I understand the lighting requirements, I probably don't have enough light. <Again, all depends on the animals you are planning to keep> Currently I have 2 18000K, 2 50/50 and 1 actinic 36" fluorescent lights in my canopy. In addition I have a two cheap blue cold cathode tubes to light the tank at night. I doubt they simulate moon light.) All of the lights are on timers to turn them off and on, which hopefully simulates a normal day. <Timers make a huge difference and an excellent investment>
Anyway, if I understand everything I've read, the rule of watts per gallon, is based of NO fluorescent lights, not incandescent lights. <No, the rule of watts per gallon (not a good rule either, I might add) is based on total watt output regardless of bulb type. It is not based on spectrum, intensity or PAR saturation for that matter Regular incandescent lighting is really of no use to growing photosynthetic reef invertebrates due to the spectrum of light waves (of little PAR value)> In which case my current scheme is only 150 watts of light for a total of 2 watts/gallon. Did I understand this correctly? <from the math stand point, yes> Or is it based off incandescent lighting? In which case, 1 35w fluorescent light puts out the equivalent of 1 60w incandescent light. <Nope. Not based on the theoretic value of incandescent lighting> My total would then be 300w for a total of 4w / gallon. <The math would be correct if your conversion value is correct. Again, incandescent light is not of the proper spectrum for use with photosynthetic processes. Your math is correct but you are proving why the "watt per gallon" method is not a good rule of thumb when discussing alternate lighting>
If the watts/gallon is based on NO fluorescent lights, <No, it is based on the total watts used over the tank>  then I don't understand how MH lighting is supposed to be any better. <The spectrum and intensity is what is truly being measured not watts per gallon. Are you sure you read through our lighting articles and FAQS? This information is in there and at much greater detail. I am most certainly grossly over simplifying this subject> I've seen these lights in the LFS and they don't appear to be anymore intense than what I have.  With all 5 lights on in my tank, my whole living room is lit up. <Sounds like a lot of light regardless of spectrum.> I can see it from outside the house with the  blinds closed. Anymore, and I would think I'd nuke my fish. <Well, if your plan is to only keep mushrooms then more than likely you won't have any issues, but feel free to experiment with various corals and let us know you findings>
I'm sure ya'll have the answers, although I'm afraid I may not like it. MH lights aren't cheap. Not to mention they get hot. <Exactly... and so are incandescent lights as their spectrum is mostly orange red and yellow which are exchanged for heat in the first foot of water. Knowledge is power: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm start with the articles and then move to the FAQs when you have time. This is a large subject matter. Do search "Google" for "lighting a reef aquarium" and read some of the findings there as well. Hope I helped some ~Paul>
Thanks, Glenn

Aquarium Lighting, the upcoming LED technology... an insider view
Hi Bob,
<Hey Jeff! Had a daydream re you and Mel just yesterday while we were walking the dogs in the canyon... that you folks came out and stayed at the Hawai'i house.>
Hope you and Diane are doing well.
<Yes my friend, thank you>
We have been working for the last year with a high-power LED company in San Jose. They are making LEDs for many lighting applications, including home lighting and multi-color industrial lighting. Our work for them has involved producing special driver electronics and control software for their LEDs, to facilitate long-term reliability testing. We are delivering a test system to them next week that will deliver over 100KW of test power.
<Neat... the last couple years I've heard of folks using LEDs, well, developing them for pet-fish use.>
While working with them we have gained exposure to their products, both current and future. Some of these look promising to revolutionize aquarium lighting:
<Oh!>
They have LEDs in various colors, including warm white
They are highly efficient - close to fluorescent efficiency
They last for 50K to 100K hours
They are low voltage (safer around salt water)
Cost is coming down
<Great!>
Given all this, the technology is now available to produce practical LED aquarium lights. These lights could feature much better spectrums for plants and other photo whatever organisms. They would be higher intensity and longer lasting. We could also tune these spectrums if desired with a simple control circuit. Tuning could have a number of applications:
<Am looking forward to their advent in our interest>
Simulate color shift at various depths
Stimulate plant growth (or retard it)
Simulate evening and sunset
Highlight certain colors in fish
Randomize the viewing experience (not always the same hue)
What do you think Bob? Is there a market for this kind of thing?
<Oh yes my friend... HUGE>
Jeff Hulett, Hawkeye
P.S. My loaches are approaching 8 inches.
<Ahh, what monsters! Hope to see you soon... perhaps in a HHH near here? Or in HI! Bob/Dogfish>

Lighting question 1/8/03
Your website is fantastic. Over the years it has given me excellent, commercially unbiased, info that has contributed to the success of my reef
<Very good to here!  Thanks for the kind words.>
I have a 75 gal reef with LPS and soft corals. My 4x96watt PC hood just had a ballast go on the fritz. I am not sure what hood to replace it with.
<Have you considered replacing just the ballast?  Your local electrical/lighting supply should be able to find you a suitable replacement, and if you aren't handy, will probably install it for you as well.>
Should I get the same type or go with a 6x54watt T5 unit. I hear praises for the T5 technology. How long do their bulbs last? Would they put out enough light for SPS corals or clams? I am hesitant to buy a MH hood because of over-heating issues...I don't have the space or money for a chiller
<I think the verdict is still out on T5.  The performance advantages they offer come mostly from the physical size of the lamp and the reflectors, not from improved efficiency.  If they don't catch on in the hobby, replacement lamps will remain expensive and hard to find.  It is a poor generalization to say that SPS require high light.  Most do fine under VHO or equivalent (PC, T5) as long as you have enough lamps (you do).  Clams can also be kept under that lighting, but they would have to be in the upper 10 or so inches of the tank.>
Your help is greatly appreciated.
<Glad to!  Adam>

Lighting Choices 1/5/2004
Hello, <Hi. Steve Allen tonight.>
I have been reading your site tonight and it looks like you are doing a great job answering questions. <Thanks, a lot of people have put a lot more work into this wonderful tool than I have.> I know I appreciate the wealth of information. <I've learned much here myself.> I am very new to the reef aquarium hobby.  I am setting up a new aquarium (72 Gallon bow front).  I am trying to decide on lighting.  I am looking at either a 48" Custom Sealife power compact/moon-Lite or a 48" Coralife Aqualight dual linear strip.  Which is better and why.
<OK. I'll assume you have studied up a little on the various choices: MH, PC, VHO, T5 and such. If not, do check the lighting articles on WWM. PCs, which both of your choices are, should be adequate for corals with low to moderate light requirements. If you want FOWLR, you can choose a less expensive set-up. If you want high-light corals, you need something better.>
<Now to the question at hand. I am not aware of an objective comparison of the two. I can tell you that the Custom SeaLife bulbs enjoy a better reputation for consistency of light output and lifespan. I have the Moonlight product and  am very satisfied. I'd suggest you search the FAQs for these products and perhaps post a thread on WetWebFotos to seek the experiences of others. Hope this helps.>

Lighting question 1/8/03
Your website is fantastic. Over the years it has given me excellent, commercially unbiased, info that has contributed to the success of my reef
<Very good to here!  Thanks for the kind words.>
I have a 75 gal reef with LPS and soft corals. My 4x96watt PC hood just had a ballast go on the fritz. I am not sure what hood to replace it with.
<Have you considered replacing just the ballast?  Your local electrical/lighting supply should be able to find you a suitable replacement, and if you aren't handy, will probably install it for you as well.>
Should I get the same type or go with a 6x54watt T5 unit. I hear praises for the T5 technology. How long do their bulbs last? Would they put out enough light for SPS corals or clams? I am hesitant to buy a MH hood because of over-heating issues...I don't have the space or money for a chiller
<I think the verdict is still out on T5.  The performance advantages they offer come mostly from the physical size of the lamp and the reflectors, not from improved efficiency.  If they don't catch on in the hobby, replacement lamps will remain expensive and hard to find.  It is a poor generalization to say that SPS require high light.  Most do fine under VHO or equivalent (PC, T5) as long as you have enough lamps (you do).  Clams can also be kept under that lighting, but they would have to be in the upper 10 or so inches of the tank.>
Your help is greatly appreciated.
<Glad to!  Adam>

Lighting Choices 1/5/2004
Hello, <Hi. Steve Allen tonight.>
I have been reading your site tonight and it looks like you are doing a great job answering questions. <Thanks, a lot of people have put a lot more work into this wonderful tool than I have.> I know I appreciate the wealth of information. <I've learned much here myself.> I am very new to the reef aquarium hobby.  I am setting up a new aquarium (72 Gallon bow front).  I am trying to decide on lighting.  I am looking at either a 48" Custom Sealife power compact/moon-Lite or a 48" Coralife Aqualight dual linear strip.  Which is better and why.
<OK. I'll assume you have studied up a little on the various choices: MH, PC, VHO, T5 and such. If not, do check the lighting articles on WWM. PCs, which both of your choices are, should be adequate for corals with low to moderate light requirements. If you want FOWLR, you can choose a less expensive set-up. If you want high-light corals, you need something better.>
<Now to the question at hand. I am not aware of an objective comparison of the two. I can tell you that the Custom SeaLife bulbs enjoy a better reputation for consistency of light output and lifespan. I have the Moonlight product and  am very satisfied. I'd suggest you search the FAQs for these products and perhaps post a thread on WetWebFotos to seek the experiences of others. Hope this helps.>

Blinded By Lighting Choices?
Folks,
<Scott F. at your service tonight!>
I've read your lighting FAQs over and over, and very good they are. But my simple!! question is still confusing me.
<I am the master of simple confusion!>
5' x 2' x 2' reef. No lighting yet (no water actually), so all options open. I can have a pendant unit with 2 halides (250W as standard, but could be 175 or 150) and 2 4' T5s (or T8s) which can be actinic or 'white'. Alternatively I can have a hood fitted with 4 double 5' T5s and a double 3' T5.
<Hmm...lots of possibilities!>
My current collection is mainly soft corals and mushrooms, but I would like to try clams and maybe some LPs / SPS (at the top, softs at the bottom?).
<Uhh-Ohh>
However I suspect the correct answer is don't try and do both in one tank!
<You're psychic!>
Any views ..the more I read the more confused I get. There is a vogue in the U.K. currently for very powerful halides e.g. 2 x 400 W on tanks 18" deep.
<And in the States! Many SPS/Clam enthusiasts swear that more is better these days...They may be right, but it seems a bit excessive in such a shallow tank, IMO. However, some of the newer pendants (particularly the HQI pendants) are very efficient, even at lower wattages in more shallow tanks (under 24 inches high). In my 72x24x20 tank, in which I keep mainly soft corals, I employ 3 150 watt Reef Optix III HQI pendants, and I have been absolutely thrilled with the results. I have experimented with this setup for SPS as well, and the results have been great! On the other hand, if I were dedicating my tank to SPS or clams, I'd probably go with 250 halides. The T5's are amazingly bright, and come in some nice spectral selections. If you were going to go SPS, I'd consider 2 250watt HQIs (Aqualine 10000k's) , supplemented with 4 T5 actinics. That should do the trick!
Surely this isn't necessary for anything?
<Really depends on the animals you intend to keep. I've used 20000ks for my softies, and have been quite pleased with the results...You need to research the specific requirements (ie; wattage, spectrum requirements, etc.>
Thanks yet again Brian
<A pleasure! Regards, Scott F>

T-5 Lighting
I have been reluctant to upgrade the lighting on my 60 gallon salt water aquarium because of concerns about heat build up.  I live in the central valley of Calif. and although the house is relatively new and of course air conditioned, the summers are hot.  Can you tell me if the T-5 technology addresses that issue any better than power compacts of the same intensity?
<Yes. The lamps are virtually the same temperature as the air around them>
Would the power compacts be any better in a hood with the built in fans than the T-5's?
<Mmm, no. T-5's are superior in lumens per watt of electricity, PAR per dollar spent on installation and operation... to all other types of current lighting technology... and the "coolest" running in temperature>
  I saw T-5's at a dealer in the Bay area and was very impressed with the quality of light.  With just a little encouragement I am ready to upgrade now.  Thanks for your time.
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>

Lighting Quandary...
Hello,
I love this site, especially since I can't seem to get help from my LFS.  A few years ago Steven Pro gave me some wonderful info on metal halide lighting and recommended some great links.  I really need to upgrade my lighting situation, and am torn between VHO and MH due to a major hair algae prob-all other variables are dealt with except lighting.  
<Okay...>
My aquarium is freestanding and is viewable from all sides.  The dimensions are 36"L X 18"W X18"H with a 2-3" sand bed.  The live rock is set up in two high islands on either side with a chasm-like feature running from front to back.  Coral hangs over and off the walls of the chasm.  I have Shrooms, gorgonians, some leathers and LPS's-would like to put in more LPS.  
<Quite a mix!>
My lighting dilemma is which source should I use?  A 1-175 MH seems the best choice for LPS, but heat is a big factor in my house.  The summers are hot here and I have no air conditioning.  If I go that route I was going to suspend the bulb 10-12" from the water surface with a fan in the suspended hood.  Will this keep my tank from overheating?
<It can help. Fans can definitely do a good job helping to keep tanks cool...>
My second dilemma is which light brand would be better:  opinions please=10K Aqualine-Buschke or 10K Ushio.
<I like Aqualines, myself...The are visual bright, hold their useful spectrum a long time, and have a high PAR value. Not to mention the fact that they really bring out the color in your corals! Personally, I like HQI double ended bulbs in the 150 or 250 watt sizes. There are some great pendant systems available these days...>
If I go halide I want best color/coral growth with no other lighting.  The third dilemma is which ballast, I read an article about the e-ballasts here way back when, but opinions clouded the facts.  Given that room temp is the limiting factor, I am confused about which to use:  less light output but less temp of e-ballast or a PFO or Custom Sealife ballast.  
<I like the electronic ballasts...Look into PFO, Ice Cap, ARO, and Blue Wave (Sunlight Supply...). All are quite good>
If I decide to go with VHO, I was thinking three 36" bulbs on the Ice Cap 430.  One 50/50, one actinic, one sun with the actinic placed in the middle.  But here is my dilemma of VHO, with the LR set up in the middle of the tank and the bulbs only 3-5'' from the water surface, won't the light path from the outside lamps be blocked from the opposite side of the LR?
<Quite possible. VHO is a great light source, but I think that halides give you more "bang for the buck", in terms of penetration and spectral energy>
It seems that one side would get sun and actinic while the other side would get 50/50 and actinic.  The last thought, is the heat output from Ice Cap VHO something to take into consideration as well?   
<Sure- but nothing close to halide, IMO>  
I greatly appreciate all the help you can give me, these dilemmas are really weighing heavy on me and preventing me from ordering the lights, meanwhile the hair algae keeps growing, and growing, and growing...   
<If you have a means to deal with the heat, I personally feel that metal halide offers the greatest flexibility for the long run. Get a great fixture, quality ballast, and one of the two brands of bulbs that you are considering, and you'll be thrilled with the results. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New T5 fluorescent Lighting
My LFS told me about a new kind of fluorescent lighting that he called High Output T5 Fluorescents. Do you have any experience with these? He said they were comparable to Metal Halides but they didn't use as much energy.
Thanks,
Eric
<Have seen this technology... and do think it's about to "hit" the U.S. aquarium interest. A new facility being built out (over the last six months...) by Rob Miller (ERI in L.A.) is fitted out with 54 watt T-5's... Fabulous... more useful photonic energy per watt consumed (yes) than MH... Bob Fenner>

Re: Lighting
Those T5's look fantastic indeed, Bob.
I honestly am not a spokesperson for MH contrary to popular belief <G>.
<Could've fooled me... and a bunch of other folks (VBGee)>
The reef aquarist's (mine too) slant to MH in many/most cases is simply due to fluorescent lighting's inability to penetrate water at depth (PAR readings below 12-18" especially).
<I understand>
No question that fluorescents are more efficient in shallow water... but with the popularity of DSB and the state of the hobby today, yada yada yada... few folks are running tanks 20" or less.
<Actually... the vast majority of marine aquariums have less than 18" of water/depth... check around>
We have trouble keeping even some hardy coral in the bottom third of a 24-36" tank under fluorescents.
<Not me>
So... 150 watt metal halide over a 30" tank versus 150 watts of pc/T5/VHO are very different schemes when measured low... my only point on favoring the MH.
<Agreed on the technical, disagree on depth of most systems in use, practical comparison of driving photosynthesis w/o matching technology/practices. Bob>

Let There Be Light! (But What Kind?)
Hi Bob & Crew;
<Scott F. your Crew member today>
I have a 110g 60"long 24" deep lighting with 2-250W 10,000K German made (HitLite) double ended metal halide bulbs and 2-24W PC actinics set 1' above the water surface. I am considering that this may be too much light(?) and thinking about going down to double ended 150W bulbs.
<Well, it really depends upon the types of corals and photosynthetic animals that you will be keeping in the tank. For most SPS corals, it sounds about right, actually. It's really a situation where you should research the specific animals that you are keeping, and what their specific needs/tolerances are>
Contemplating between 10K and 20K in the 150W's,   I plan on keeping LPS corals and would naturally like to promote Coralline Algae and discourage Hair Algae. Does 10k vs. 20k
come into play with Hair Algae?  
<I don't believe that the spectrum and intensity are as important as the nutrient levels in the water. With good husbandry techniques, I think that you should just use the lighting that suits your animals' needs. Light alone will not cause algae problems. The 10000k is a true "full spectrum" bulb, gives a clean, crisp, whitish-blue light. The 20000k tends to have a very blue cast to it, but its spectrum is useful to many animals. I have been experimenting with 3 150watt HQIs (20000k) over my 72x24x20 LPS tank, and it has worked quite well so far. They have proven to be energy-efficient, attractive visually, and beneficial to these animals. With efficient HQI ballasts, a well-designed pendant (I use the Sunlight Supply Reef Optix), these bulbs are quite good. I have read a couple of studies (Sanjay Yoshi) that indicate that certain bulb/ballast/pendant combos in the 150 watt range actually yield a higher PAR value than some higher wattages in different situations...Definitely worth checking out!>  
I have also been under the suspicion that the 250W's have been too much for the Coralline(?).
<I think that the jury is still out on intensity and coralline growth in captive systems. There seem to be many species of coralline algae that adapt to varying lighting conditions, both in the wild, and in captive systems. I have seen many, many reef systems that have beautiful coralline growth, even with literally thousands of watts of halides overhead. There are quite a few factors that contribute to coralline growth; light is only one of them...Do a little research on coralline (see the WWM site), and you'll see a lot of conflicting ideas! Experimentation is best here!>
Any recommendations on this matter of color temperature and power would be appreciated. Also if you have a preferred brand in what I think is relatively new type of bulb to the hobby(?). Thanks, Rich
<Well Rich, I can only speak from my experience, but I have found that, in the 150 watt HQI segment, I like the 10000k Aqualines, and in the 20000k spectrum, I favor the newer Ushio. If you are contemplating 20000k bulbs in the 150 watt configuration, keep in mind that not all ballasts will work with the 20000k's. For example, 150 watt Ice Cap HQI ballasts will drive just about every HQI bulb made in that wattage, with the exception, I believe, of the Radium 20000k...Do the research, reap the benefits! Lighting is the most controversial segment of reef keeping, IMO. If you ask 10 reef nerds about what the "best" lighting system is, you'll no doubt get 10 different answers. Talk with some fellow reefers, do the research, and make your selections based on your animal's needs...You can't go wrong! Have fun! Good luck! Scott F>

Lighting
I was at a local Home Depot store today and saw some great deals on sodium, mercury and halogen lights.
I wonder how do they compare with metal halides? Do they have the right spectrum?
<No.>
More or less lumens per watt (than metal halides)?
<Sodium Vapor puts out more lumens, but not in a useable spectrum for aquaria. Mercury Vapor and Halogen less intense, but equally un-useable. Also, lumens are not the measure we are concerned with. We are interested in PAR, Photosynthetically Active Radiation, not lumens, which is a the measure of what your eye sees, not what corals use.
Do they emit UV, how long do they last and do they produce less heat?  Thank you, Luke
<Look to on-line vendors to save on proper lighting. Forget lighting available at hardware stores, they aren't designed for aquarium lighting. Craig>

Reef Lighting... MH necessary? 6/26/03
This question is for Anthony if possible as he has been helping me with my 75 reef tank.
<cheers, mate>
Anthony, how is it going.   
<very well, with hope for you in kind>
You helped me a bunch getting my 75 reef back to a base line.  I have had trouble keeping my Alk/Calcium stable as it was dropping fast no matter what I did (I had a problem of some kind of build up from using two part liquids over time and then having to use a lot of Kalk).  You had me do 2 50% water changes and now my levels are staying good with Kalk alone. Thank you!!!  
<excellent to hear my friend!>
I am feeding the tank more also daily additions of Mysis shrimp, clam, mosquito larva and flake.  The fish like it also!!!
<indeed <G>... we often underfeed our aquaria>
I do have another question concerning my lighting.   My corals have started to get their color back although not as fast as I would have liked.  Most did bleach (get light) during my low Alk episode.  Some are still light but getting better.
<no worries... most will return in short order just from the extra food/nitrogen now available from your extra feedings>
I have a mixed reef with SPS, LPS and Softies.  I have 440watts of VHO lighting (new bulbs) 2, URI 50/50 and 2 URI actinic.  My tank is acrylic so I try to keep the top clean to let more light in.
<yes... very important>
My SPS buddies are telling me this is not enough light to keep my SPS in good color/growth.
<heehee... you'd think those fascists had stock in the power company>
What do you think?
<without many SPS (remitting them to the surface), your lighting is quite fine my friend>
I visited a coral breeder a few months back that had unreal coloration using VHO for SPS.  
<agreed. Some folks are a bit too enthusiastic if not mistaken regarding the use of MH for everybody>
Let me know your thoughts and thank you so much for your help.
Andrew
<no worries... best regards, Anthony>

Lighting
As a rookie I am overwhelmed by all the information on lighting.  <<You are lucky, I am confused as soon as I get out of bed<G>>> I currently have  normal output 2x15 lamps, one 10K and one 50/50.  I have learned quickly I want more, especially since I want to establish a reef tank with some fish.  But I don't know what type animals I want yet.  Am I going backwards?  My tank is a 45 hex approximately 24" deep.  I want the tank to be very aesthetically pleasing as well as functional.  I am considering imitating the dawn/dusk cycle which got me looking at PC actinics.  Does it matter one way or the other to imitate a dawn/dusk cycle?
<<Can be positive>> Is it more or less healthy on the occupants?  Or is that more a preference of the owner?  <<more the former>> The deep tank has got me looking at MH.  I was offered by a store a combo that includes a 2x36 actinic PC fixture with electric ballast and a 175w 10K MH with a magnetic ballast.  What is the difference in ballast?  Is this enough light?  Too much?  Right Equipment?  What type "look" will the two lights together create?  Just the MH?  Would this amount of light generally suffice for low light through high light requirements in my tank?  I realize it would make your life easier if I could class the type species of animals I want but I don't know and don't know enough about what they look like to decide right now.  I'm trying to merge a good mix of light to be sufficient to house just about whatever I see at the pet store at the same time making it very nice looking.  <<Yikes, be careful using this 'criteria' when selecting livestock. Please research first and buy after you decide you can provide proper husbandry/environment>>
Is that the million dollar question?
I have become so confused so if you can keep it simple for this guy I would appreciate it.  You experience and suggestions will be invaluable to an overwhelmed but fascinated new hobbyist.
<<Russ, maybe time to look at some of the info here. Start at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corllgtg.htm and beyond. In a nutshell, electronic ballast, cooler/more costly/ magnetic, more heat/less costly (generally) Most (all?) fluorescent use electronic Metal Halide you have a choice. Metal Halide is generally more costly up front, but bulbs have a much longer lifetime that offsets over time. Many like the halide for the 'shimmer' effect it gives. If you decide MH I would think the 175 you described earlier would be a good choice. See if there is a marine society or other stores in your area so YOU can SEE what each looks like. Very subjective to the individual. As I said before, PLEASE go slow and research before you buy. and keep asking questions. Happy reefing, Don>>
Russ Carothers

Lighting on a 55G tank
<Hi Herbert, Don with  you tonight>
This is a fabulous site and for someone like myself who has been out of the hobby since the late 1980's has brought me up to date on the latest technologies.  
<Thank you, I will pass the kind words along to the rest of the crew. I am amazed on a regular basis myself with the info that is here>
I am planning on resurrecting my old 55 gal glass tank(48"x12"x21") and setting up a reef system.  I plan on utilizing my old homemade wet/dry filter, but instead of using bioballs I will fill the tower with live rock.  I plan to replace my homemade cc air driven skimmer with a new Berlin Turbo in the sump.  2 - 3" of live sand  and 50 - 70 lbs. of live rock will be used in the tank.
<Pardon for me butting in here, but less than 1" or more that 4" in the main tank/sump is the current wisdom>
My main question concerns lighting.  At this time I am planning on keeping a few fish and mostly populating with inverts and soft corals. (maybe some LPSs).  I really do not want to restrict my selection of inhabitants due to insufficient lighting, however I do not want to over kill on the lighting.  My philosophy is whether you keep fish or corals, if they inhabit the same environment then I should provide the same lighting.  I want to provide the best lighting for the inhabitants successful well-being, and not to accelerate growth beyond natural limits.  I have found these options and would really appreciate your comments:
1)  Purchase new hood with (4) x 55 watt power compacts and use with my existing (2) x 40w NO flour. light hood. (The Jalli hood is narrow enough to allow use of both lights)
2)  Purchase new hood with (4) x 110 watt VHO flour. (Hamilton)
3)  Purchase new hood with (2) x 175watt MH with (2) x 40watt NO flour. (tank is 12"wide, light may over shoot tank a illuminate to much surrounding area?).
4)  Purchase new hood with (4) x 96watt power compacts.
<Well, the biggest bang for the buck over time is Metal Halide (even though initial cost may be higher). But 2 175s over 15-16" of water is overkill. Maybe you could find some 70 or 100watt? You can compensate by raising the lights higher off the water if you decide to go this route.  If you do decide to use the fluorescent lighting I would use option 1 and be prepared to change the bulb ever 6-9 months. >
Any skimmer suggestions would also be appreciated.
<Search for 'skimmer' on the WetWebMedia.com home page and you will find the FAQs you are looking for. You will find that EuroReef and Aqua C on high on the list for sump application and Aqua C Remora (and Remora Pro) for hang on>
Last one - would waiting and purchasing a 90 gal. tank be an easier system to maintain?  More concerned with stability rather than maintenance costs, or with prudent and consistent attention, not be a tremendous difference?
<Oh yes, more volume=more stability. Better yet, get the 90, have it drilled, and use the 55 as a sump.>
Thank you for your patience and time. <My pleasure, hope this helps. Don>
Herbert

Science or Hobby? Marine Lighting - 8/14/03
Great website, lots of great information.  I've read the Marine Lighting primer, other articles and threads, but I can't seem to find any comments on a situation similar to mine).  I know others are looking for this info so I will gladly pass it along!
<a great attitude my friend>
I have a 18 gallon tall with an eclipse 1 hood.  I've retrofitted it with A SmartLite (32W) from Custom Sea Life.
I have a deep sand bed (about 4 inches) and 30 lbs of live rock.
Is there a way to quantitatively describe the lighting at various depths? e.g.) SmartLite 32W - X PAR, Lumens, or Watts at depth Y
<as a useful measure to aquarists, yes... PAR.>
Or better yet an expression for intensity as a function of depth (e.g. I(d) = Io * e^-kd  when d=depth ?
<regular readers of the daily FAQs will know that I have little interest, if not outright disdain, for overtly anal exercises in mental masturbation that far surpass a sound academic or scientific curiosity. I will tell you, Jeff, with a mixture of humor and sincerity that any such discussion regarding the measure of usable light at depth for corals is staggeringly moot in an 18 gallon aquarium. Arguably, it is just as moot in our 24 and 36" deep aquariums when the subjects/objects of our study and admiration (symbiotic reef organisms at large) found over a much wider range in the sea (many species commonly occurring in niches separated by 40 or more feet.>
Can we then relate this to species requirements (compensation and saturation points)?
<it can be done, but cannot be fairly extrapolated by species for the above reason. We do not know where on a reef a given specimen was collected: Acropora formosa in 3 feet of water... or A. formosa from 60 feet of water? Doh! The best we can do with such data is on a specimen by specimen basis IMO... or, with further study to know the range of tolerance and adaptability for a given species. Now that would be useful!>
Is there any published data?
<field data yes... do pillage the academic archives. In aquaristic terms, however... little is available. I do recall Eric B chatting about it. Dana Riddle and Sanjay Yoshi are also very interested in such issues>
In the final analysis, given those parameters, what corals can I realistically expect to grow?  
<ahhh... in an 18 gallon aquarium? Well... there are many many adaptable cnidarians that will grow well in such shallow water. Finessing light is not your problem, Jeff... controlling growth will be your reality! Dude... do consider installing a beer meister next to your reef tank. Either that, or convert a Kalkwasser doser into a heroin drip. Just a suggestion. Best of luck! Anthony>

Choices in lighting
I just read your intro of lighting requirements where you seemed convinced that fluorescent lamps are the best lighting source given the cost of operation, lamp cost, heat generation, and quality of light.  I am trying to decide what system to build for myself.  I was going to go with 2X150 watt 10000k HQI MH lamps powered  by a PFO ballast, coupled with a 96 watt power quad 50/50 balanced actinic/daylight for a 75 gallon tank built into the same canopy.  I want to place stony corals, soft corals, maybe clams, along with fish.  I like the shimmering look that is achieved with the MH but the decreased cost of the VHO set up is also appealing.  Would I be completely displeased by not going with the metal halide after the fact???
<I'll make an analogy with transportation-car purchases: A Ford Taurus will "get you there" as assuredly as a Mercedes 450 SL... but you'd look different to others and one would likely arrive sooner than the latter... Is the difference in cost "worth it" to you? Will you be willing to pay the greater cost for operation, maintenance?>
I have heard a lot, "spend the money now because you will be displeased and will eventually upgrade..." Comparing apples to apples (light quality, intensity, and usefulness by the organisms that are exposed to it) which would be most ideal?
<If time, looks are paramount in importance, the MH's are better here>
  The store that I frequent in my home town really push Power Compact and Metal Halide.  Because I am building the system myself (once I have chosen it) the costs are not too staggering than if I were to go with a completed or even retrofit kit.  If I decide on the VHO I will probably go with the Ice Cap 660 dimmable ballast and set it up with either VHO or PC.
The Ice Cap Inc. web site shows wiring diagrams for both PC and URI bulbs.
Thanks for the help and my apologies for the loss of cohesion in my message
Scott from Colorado
<Clarity is pleasurable. Think on your choice/s here and be sure. Bob Fenner>

Lighting Corals- Or Making Lava?
First of all thanks for the awesome resource on the web.  My buds and I always check your advice before we venture further into our hobby.
<Glad that we have been of use to you! We all learn something new every day! Scott F. with you!>
I have a question in regards to reef tank lighting.  My set-up includes a 75gallon reef run Berlin with an ETSS 600 skimmer, 2 110w actinic VHO, 2 175w 10K MH, with 90 lbs "premium" live rock, 2 GenEx pumps, and I use RO/DI water.  Livestock is basically groves of 3 types of pulsing xenia, sps, clams, LPSs, 8 types of macro, and various hard corals.  I have a question in regards to lighting and if there can be too much.  At present I have 7.6 watts per gallon and am taking 2 96 watt PCs off of my Peacock bass tank and am tempted to put them on the reef.  My thoughts are this tank was set-up for my newborn daughter and it will sit untouched for many years and I want it to be perfect.  Am I off base for wanting to do this?  If not what type of bulbs would you guys suggest?
<Well- that's the 40 million dollar question! There is no right or wrong answer- and no one "perfect" scheme. It really depends on the specific needs of the animals that you are keeping. I have seen lighting taken to extremes- 400 watt halides on 18 inch deep aquariums! As Anthony would say- That's like making lava! The "watts per gallon" rule is really not valid anymore, given today's high intensity lighting systems. There are some general rules of thumb, such as 1 175 watt halide for every two feet of tank length in aquariums that are up to 24 inches deep, and 250watt (or greater) halides for tanks deeper than 24 inches...These are just rules of thumb, once again- and are highly generalized. Also- remember, a tank full of lower-light requiring animals will be negatively impacted by high intensity lighting...Also, spectrum plays almost as important a role as intensity. The 10000k and 20000k bulbs are popular because the provide a useful (and aesthetically pleasing) light. On the other hand, some of the most useful lighting for many corals is not particularly pleasing to look at (for example- the 6500ks). What this all boils down to, is that you need to research very carefully the needs of the specific animals that you are keeping, and what types of lighting suits them best...Then you have to find a "happy medium" and adjust your lighting to please both the corals and your aesthetic sensibilities!>
>Also is it good practice to run UV and ozone in a reef.  I have received a 36 watt double helix and electronic ozonizer from my wife for Christmas. Thanks In Advance, Lee
<UV most definitely has it's place in reef systems. Yes- there is some disagreement over this issue, too! However, in the grand scheme of things- I think that UV is very useful...Its use has been demonstrated to eliminate many free-floating unicellular algae, as well as many aquatic pathogens. The important things to consider when using UV is that the flow rate through the sterilizer must be slow enough to assure a good "kill rate", and that you must keep the sleeve in the sterilizer clean, in order for it to be effective. All in all- UV can be a very useful (although not mandatory) tool in your effort to maintain a healthy system! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New with corals
Hi Bob thanks for the link just one more question.
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have a 100gallon tank with 2 x 150w MH and 2 Actinic Fluorescents. What would be the best coral to keep?
<my advice would be to focus on one specific group of corals and not to mix from an array of groups. Mixing causes too many long term problems from silent chemical warfare in the aquarium. SO, decide if you like the Octocorals best... or the Euphylliids, etc. And stay with the family members in that group. That lets you specialize with a more compatible group of organisms while still having a tremendous number of species to pick from>
I mean I read about guys with 3x400w MH etc and my light seems to be nowhere as good ... or is it?
<those aquarists are often running commonly excessive lighting and most corals in such shallow aquaria (less than 75 cm) will suffer for it in time. Your lighting is fine my friend. Even if you want to specialize in high light SPS corals and clams, I would still not suggest more than 250 watt halides for this particular tank.>
Werner Schoeman
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Lighting The Way
Greetings!
<Hi there! Scott F. with you this afternoon.>
I am a new enthusiast who is planning on setting up a custom 75 Gal as time permits. I currently have most of the stand done and am looking forward to getting the hood built. As this is a completely custom rig I had some questions regarding lighting as I have read over the FAQ's and done a forum search but still need some advice please.
<I'll do my best!>
I wanted to achieve around 4-5 watts/gallon and at this point kind of favor the Compact fluorescents due to bulb life and heat generated. If you were going to do a custom hood and had your choice would you go with the Compacts? Or would you do 2 MH w/1 or 2 NO/VHO Actinics or see if the T5's are going to be worth the wait or would you go with a completely different setup?
<Well, I use and like power compacts a lot, but if I were doing a custom setup, I'd probably go the halide route, supplemented with PC's. Why, you ask? Even though you are going the FOWLR route now, there is always the chance that you'll be seduced by the reef concept, and halides will give you much greater flexibility to keep many more types of corals and inverts, clams, etc. They are more expensive now, but you'll thank yourself later if you go the reef route 2 years down the line!>
>I do plan on using an intake and exhaust fan built into the hood to handle any heat generated and since this is a custom hood I can pretty much fit any lighting solution that would be best for my animals.
<Great thought process!>
>My current thinking called for 3 96 Watt Compacts (2 6700, 1 10K with a regular NO 40Watt Actinic). My problem with the Compacts revolves around the 96 Watt CF bulbs. I cannot seem to find a good source of these bulbs, waterproof end caps and finding the base fixture (gy10Q)... GE, Sylvania and Panasonic do not list these 96Watt bulbs in their catalogs online although I sure that Panasonic makes some of these as AHsupply's offers some. Is there a good dependable source to order these bulbs and parts online?
<try hellolights.com, a good source for DIY lighting stuff>
>Does the above rig sound or would you go another direction 
<As above>
I know a lot depends on the animals I plan to keep and at this point (subject to change) I plan on a FOWLR and find myself drawn to clowns although my wife is absolutely in love with the chocolate chip starfish. I don't know enough yet to know if this would be a good mix (as I know some starfish are pretty predatory) but plan on continued self education as I want to avoid hurting or killing any of these beautiful animals through my own stupidity. Any help would be really appreciated! Thank you guys so much!
<So much depends on the combinations of animals that we keep, and their relative suitability for captivity. Do look into the wetwebmedia.com resources to study up on your prospective purchases. Feel free to ask us if you have any questions on your choices. I commend you heartily for your forethought and research that you've done already! You'll definitely be successful if you keep doing things like this! Thanks for stopping by!>

Lighting? for 36Lx18Wx18H tank
Hi Bob, I have a questions about lighting. My tank is 36Lx18Wx18H.This is my first time keeping reef tank and I haven set up my tank yet!
<welcome aboard! and kudos to you for being thoughtful enough to research before you buy your animals... we talk to too many impulsive people killing creatures for doing that the other way around>
...I plan to have live rock, corals as well as fish in the tank. I want to know if the (JLB DESKTOP FORMOSA) that is  36"long with 4x 36watts is the proper lights for my tank.
<Can't say... you have to pick your corals before you can say if the lights are good enough. Coral all have different lighting needs. Read these articles first... they will reveal all to start:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fdreefinverts.htm
and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm
and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm
and there you have your crash course. If you are interested in more... look up Eric Borneman Aquarium Corals book or my Book or Coral Propagation (http://www.readingtrees.com/bocpV1.htm). We also have a new Reef Invertebrates book coming out in a few months. See here: http://wetwebfotos.com/store/nma-ri.html >
It is good for my fishes and corals?.
<the fishes will likely be indifferent>
this is the website of the JBJ light  http//www.jbjlighting.com.can u help me bob
THANKS BOB.....Azman from Singapore.
<Excellent to hear from you in Singapore my friend! Our whole crew will be visiting Singapore this spring for the Aquarama conference. Will you be going? Information here: http://www.aquarama.com.sg/index.html
I will be touring Singapore for a few days before flying on to give a couple seminars on Reef Coral keeping in Hong Kong. Can you recommend any good aquarium shops in Singapore for us to see? How far is good diving from Singapore too? Can you recommend a dive charter company? Ha! I bet you did not expect to be asked questions in return :) With kind regards, Anthony Calfo>