|
|
FAQs about Light and Lighting for Marine Systems, Installation
Related Articles: Marine
Light, & Lighting,
Marine Aquarium Light Fixtures and Canopies,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates, Anemone
Lighting, Coral System Lighting, Moving
Light Systems, Related FAQs:
Marine System Lighting,
Marine System Lighting 2,
FAQs 3, FAQs 4,
FAQs 5, FAQs 6,
FAQs 7, FAQs 8,
FAQs 9, FAQs 10,
FAQs 11,
FAQs 12, FAQs 13,
FAQs 14, FAQs 15,
FAQs 16,
FAQs 17, FAQs 18, & FAQs on Marine
Lighting: Fixture Selection 1,
Fixture Selection 2, Fixture Selection
3, (incandescent, fluorescent, MH/HQI, LED, natural...),
Lamp/Bulb Selection 1, Lamp/Bulb
Selection 2, (See Fluorescent, LED, MH... below),
Waste Heat Production/Elimination, UV
Shielding, Measure,
Troubles/Repairs, By Manufacturer
Make/Model: &
Actinic Lighting,
Metal Halide Lighting,
Fluorescent Lighting,
Compact Fluorescent Lighting, Small
System Lighting,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting, |
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
http://www.icecapinc.com/ |
Light Hanging Question 11/18/07
Thanks for all the help on
the issue of overheating. Leaving the top off and raising the light
has helped and I've got a desk fan on the way to lower it even more.
<Awesome, am glad to help.>
I am probably going to have to build
an automatic top off device to go with the sump though, as I'm
having to top up about every 2 days or so (any advice on how to do
that would also be appreciated).
<There are many do it yourself
plans on the internet, one can be found at
http://ozreef.org/diy_plans/electronic_projects/water_level_switch.html
. Just keep in mind that you will be dealing with 110, not 240. I
personally use and am a huge advocate of the Tunze water top off
system. It is kind of pricey, but well worth it. It has an optical
sensor that keeps your water level super consistent, an overflow
sensor that shuts the unit off if activated, and it shuts the unit
down if it is on for more than ten minutes at a time. Also, it comes
with a 12V pump that will pump from a reservoir to the sump to top
off. This limits your top off capacity to the reservoir, limiting
flooding capacity. All this adds up to an extremely reliable top off
system. I have personally replaced the pump in the kit with a 12V
liquid solenoid hooked directly to my RO unit, I don’t like hauling
water if I don’t have to.>
My primary question, though, is a
rather simple one and I feel a bit ridiculous that I'm even asking
given that there's probably a very easy explanation. I have the
Current-USA Outer Orbit T5HO lamp hanging from my ceiling by the kit
that it came with. In my zealousness to lower the temperature, I
hoisted the thing up and it's now about 11 inches above the tank. It
looks like there's a UFO hovering in my living room. So I'd like to
lower it back down a little bit towards the 7-8 in. range and
monitor to prevent overheating, but I can't seem to figure out how
to do that. I know product questions aren't your usual schtick, but
I thought one of you guys might have this setup and know what I'm
talking about. As it is, I'm contemplating heading back to my LFS
and getting another hanging kit for 10-20 bucks just so the family
doesn't flip when they come over for Thanksgiving at the big THING
floating in the air over the living room.
<That can certainly be
unappealing, not to mention the value of being able to adjust the
height of your light. The bracket that mounts to the ceiling has a
little wire outlet in it. By pressing the wire outlet into the mount
you should be able to slide the cable in and out to adjust the
length. A PDF with instructions for the mount can be found at
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/metal_SunPod.htm
I hope this
helps, have a nice Thanksgiving, Scott V.>
Re: Light Hanging Question 11/18/07
Miracle workers, all of
you ;)
<Have just battled the same woes.>
Can't believe I
hadn't figured out the lights before, but it worked and they look
fantastic.
<Excellent, good to hear! >
Sent an e-mail off to
Aqua-C about this last question since I know that's what you
recommend, but in the meantime, just wondering if you have any
advice. I set up a new Aqua-C EV120 in the same tank. I have a
problem though. I've set it up and have it operating for bout 2 days
now and after the first day, it started producing MASSIVE amounts of
wet foam. So much so that I had to do what they initially suggested
and put the outlet hose back into the sump. I figured this might be
part of the break in process, but opened the gate valve all the way
and it's still producing this volcano of wet foam a day later. Any
advice? Is this normal?
Thanks!
Frank
PS Using a Mag 5 with
it, for reference.
<Is it normal? Sometimes. Many times you will
see the opposite during break in. You may want to try restricting
the air intake on the skimmer and check the water level the skimmer
sits in to see if it is within the recommended range. If you add
supplements to your water or vitamins to your food it will very
often make the skimmer go nuts like this. If all of the above is in
order then just give it some time to settle in. Happy reefing, Scott
V.> |
Lighting placement, angle reflection question 01/14/2008
Greetings Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello Brian, Andrew here>>
First,
I'd like to thank the membership of the WWM crew for the enriching
leadership you collectively provide. I have kept freshwater
(Cichlids) for four years now and have often visited this site for
reference. During these freshwater years I have immensely enjoyed
pouring over the great variety of detailed topics relating to marine
systems as well. Long story short...(and after reading Bob's
excellent text (CMA) cover to cover) I'm now venturing into the
saltwater realm. Today, I have a lighting and
light-fixture-position/hood-design question that neither my reading
the FAQS nor searching the archives has answered. I'd be most
appreciative of your assistance.
<<Lets see what we can do then>>
I recently purchased a used, 200gal (84 x 24 x 24) Oceanic RR (Dual
"Megaflow"...which by no means actually IS "RR") and am gradually
acquiring components, doing research, etc, that will enable me to
reach my FOWLR and, ultimately, Reef tank goal. The tank came with
an exceptional stand but no hood/canopy. As a somewhat advanced
hobbyist woodworker (furniture), I intend to craft my own. As I
collect all the necessary aquarium equipment, I am trying to "buy
once" and obtain components that will provide prolonged service
across the spectrum (no pun intended with my question) of my
development as an aquarist. To this end, for lighting, few solutions
seem to adequately fit the 84-inch long dimension of this tank.
Thinking that an assemblage of separate lighting fixtures would best
suffice, I have acquired 4, 20-inch, Current SunPod 150W/14K (HQI)
MH lights which I intend to integrate into the canopy design.
<<As a note, a single MH bulb is good enough for lighting 2 feet of
tank length>>
My question (at long last) is this: My plan is to
design the canopy mount such that the Sunpods are positioned
end-to-end along the 84-inch length of the tank. However, in order
to maintain some nominal distance between the ends of the fixtures
(specifically, to keep the integrated cooling fans located on the
ends of the fixtures free from obstruction), some fixture offset is,
I believe, required. For clarity, the concept is that the fixtures
on either end would be centered (front to back) and the two fixtures
in the center of the tank would be positioned forward (approx. the
8-inch fixture width). When offsetting the SunPod fixtures in the
center, a nominal space would be left between the end-fans of these
as well. In shifting the center fixtures forward, they would be
closer to the front of the tank and so I was considering angling
those fixtures slightly inward (perhaps 15-20 degrees)...to direct
more light output into the tank and less through the front glass
(such as will occur by being closer to the front and per
reflector-coverage design). I am concerned about the resultant
amount of light reflection that might occur by angling these
fixtures, if the reflection would be significant (considering that
the water surface is constantly irregular anyway when good
circulation is achieved). So, I am wondering if the angling of light
fixtures has been successfully done in the past and if a deleterious
effect (light loss to reflection) will result by doing so? I've
attached a rudimentary diagram to help explain the concept.
Any
advice would be most appreciated.
<<I would be tempted to only
use three of the four fixtures that you have bought. Your tank is 7
feet long, 3 of the lighting units will be fine, spaced evenly with
4.5 inches from the outer edge of the lamp unit to the end of the
hood. If you use the method you have mentioned above, the light will
not be adequately dispersed in the aquarium, basically giving you
low lighting at the front as well as an irregular lighting pattern
inside the tank, and I think this will greatly reduce the viewing
pleasure of the aquarium>>
Thank you very much for your time.
Best Regards, Brian.
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>
Re: Lighting placement, angle reflection question 01/16/2008
Good Morning Andrew,
Reference 01/14/2008 Lighting angle question
<<Good morning again Brian>>
Thank you so much for the fast
reply. <<No problem>> The simplicity of your advised solution is
like that "should have had a V8, bonk me on the head" commercial. No
need to overcomplicate, duh! In defense of the apparent fog that
surrounds my decision making, :), I'd actually considered several
options including going with a single, 72-inch, 3-bulb SunPod
fixture or, as you suggest, just using 3 of the separate fixtures.
However, the more I looked at the dimensions of the SunPod product
line, the widths of the fixtures and locations of the actual bulbs
(bulb effective centerline within the housing and "centerline" of
overhead/hood placement), the more confused I became. I have seen
the common reference to a single MH bulb's "effective" ability to
cover 2ft of tank bottom. Presumably, this reference takes bulb
height (distance from water surface), substrate depth (i.e. DSB of
4-5 inches), and water column diffusion factors into account. In my
case, if I have a 4-inch DSB, place my bulbs 8 inches from water
surface and have a tank with 24-inch height dimension, then I am
looking at a 28-inch distance from bulb to substrate surface.
<<A
single 250w metal halide bulb can penetrate down to 24 inches when
mounted 8 inches above water level>>
Per the common reference to
a single MH bulb's ability to "effectively" shed light on 2ft of
tank bottom, my thought would be that the centerline(s) of MH bulb
placement needs to occur at 12-inches from either end of the tank
and at 24-inch increments between bulbs for multiple bulb fixtures.
I'm thinking that it is particularly important that the bulbs at
either end of the tank are placed 12-inches from the tank end so
that aquascaping, such as taller live rock structures stacked to
conceal overflows, are fully illuminated on the ends (outer sides).
<<I agree, we need the lighting as evenly spaced / spread as
possible>>
Many of the products I see available, such as the
36-inch dual bulb SunPod
for example, place two bulbs (bulb
centers) approximately 12-inches apart...meaning (presumably) much
greater (concentrated) illumination in some areas of the tank and
considerably less illumination in others.
<<That happens a lot
with multiple bulb fixtures>>
Part of my reasoning in selecting
the 20-inch SunPod was that bulb centerline is 10-inches from the
end of the fixture which would allow hood placement to achieve an
effective 12-inches of bulb centerline from tank end (i.e. the live
rock illumination concern noted above).
<<Valid point>>
Considering all of this "over thinking" I wonder if, in my case with
the 7ft tank, center brace location, etc, a return of the 4, 20-inch
SunPod fixtures and purchase of 2, 36-inch (dual 150w MH bulb)
fixtures would be worth considering in order to achieve the most
evenly concentrated distribution of light (bang for the buck)? What
say you?
<<I would agree that would be far better in the
situation you have with the hood and brace setup. I would go for the
250w bulbs as this will provide you with more punch of light down
towards the bottom of the tank>>
Again, many thanks for your
time. Your advice is most appreciated. Warm Regards, Brian.
<<My
time is your time Brian, many thanks for the questions. A Nixon>> | 
|
Finding the Sweet Spot
Hello to everyone , hope things are going
well. Sorry for the question but I need your opinion. I just purchased a
new light system the AquaSpacelight, with 3 250wDE MH and 4 24pc actinic
lights. The directions state that it should be hung 12 inches above the
water, I have a 180g tank 24" deep. That means the bottom is 36" below
the lights? Does that seem OK if I want to keep SPS and clams. Thanks
<Mike, Ryan with you today. Although I certainly would stick to the 12
inches above while the bulbs are "burning in," I think that playing with
that gap a little bit in time may help your photosynthetic animals in
the bottom third of your ecosystem. In addition, much of the usable
light is filtered at that point, so you may want to try and elevate your
clams and SPS to a higher point in the tank. Good luck, Ryan>
Mike
Winston Height of Bulbs off Water - 8/18/03
Hey gang,
<cheers>
Yes its me again. The more I read the more I understand,
but inevitably this leads to more questions. I'm planning on a DIY hood
for my 90G eventual reef tank. Made of oak and stained or Pine and
painted. Going to be approx 15" tall. Have decided to leave off the
tank cover. The 2 175W 10K MH lights will be mounted approx 12" from
the water surface.
<yikes... too high likely. Really needs to be
closer to 9" for optimal intensity vs. spread (see Sanjay Yoshi's
research on this subject)>
I also plan on having 2 VHO actinic blue
110W each. Would their effect at 12" off the water surface be
ineffective?
<completely... they would most only be aesthetic at that
point>
Should I move them closer?
<anything beyond 3" off the
surface with fluorescents is a waste of electricity IMO. Seek the PAR
meter when in doubt <G>>
Thoughts suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks again for everything. Don't know how I'd start
this hobby without ya.
Jeremy - Pineville, LA
<best regards,
Anthony> Which reflector?
Hey there-
I have a
125 with 3-175 watt AquaLine 10k metal halides and 4-96 watt pc
actinics. I am looking to replace my flat reflectors with more
efficient reflectors, either the PFO optimal reflectors (mounted
perpendicular to the tank- similar to the spider reflector) or the PFO
parallel reflector. I will also be adding 2- 6 foot VHO actinics. My
question is whether I should go with the parallel reflector, which would
place the VHOs closer to the water (about 4-5 inches from the surface)
or go with the perpendicular reflector?
If I decide on the
perpendicular, I will mount one set of VHOs underneath the reflectors
underneath the mogul sockets at the back of my tank and the other set on
the canopy top in the front. Which setup would you recommend? The
parallel reflector with both VHOs closer to the surface or the
perpendicular reflectors with one set of actinics closer to the
surface? Thank you very much for your help!
Josh
<Depends on the
width of your 125 and how easy it is to move hood/lights out of the way
to gain access. I use one of the parallel set-ups and it works quite
nicely, although the focus of the light is more downward then some
spider reflectors. The VHO's are down next to the water where you want
them. Then the optimal reflectors spread the light more sideways with
the reflectors set as they are...but no real good way to handle the
actinics.... All depends on how much space you want to cover in that
125! I would favor the parallel reflector for this reason. Craig>
Halide Bulb orientation and reflector choice
Hey there-
<whassup>
I have a 125 with 3-175 watt AquaLine 10k metal halides and
4-96 watt pc actinics. I am looking to replace my flat reflectors with
more efficient reflectors, either the PFO optimal reflectors (mounted
perpendicular to the tank- similar to the spider reflector) or the PFO
parallel reflector.
<sounds good>
I will also be adding 2- 6
foot VHO actinics.
<nice for aesthetics... but not needed by your
corals>
My question is whether i should go with the parallel
reflector, which would place the VHOs closer to the water (about 4-5
inches from the surface) or go with the perpendicular reflector?
<fluorescents higher than 3" off the water are almost a waste of
use/electricity... they need to be scary close to the water to be any
good>
If I decide on the perpendicular, I will mount one set of
VHOs underneath the reflectors underneath the mogul sockets at the back
of my tank and the other set on he canopy top in the front. Which setup
would u recommend?
<since it is for aesthetic effect only at 4" or
higher... do what is most convenient for mounting... or for working in
the tank>
The parallel reflector with both VHOs closer to the surface
or the perpendicular
The reflectors with one set of actinics closer
to the surface? Thank you very much for your help! Josh
<use the
parabolic reflectors for the halides at 6-9" off water surface... then
buy the VHOs (URI brand) that have the built-in internal reflectors and
mount them (you can buy acrylic legs/stand-offs) to mount bulb right on
top of the tank top or canopy (no external reflector needed). That's my
vote :) Kind regards, Anthony> Need wiring diagrams for IceCap
660 - 2/19/03
hello: friends ,<Hello> I Need the wiring diagrams
for my old ballast 660. <Well, we do not carry such things here, but if
needed I believe they can be found here
http://www.icecapinc.com/660.htm if you continue to have problems,
check with www.championlighting.com. Good guys that may be able to help.
Good luck> I know that i can power up to 2, 3, or 4 lamps but I don't
have no idea how to make it work. <Check the links above. They have all
specs about your product> thanks V.K. <Thank you, Paul - out>
New Lighting Question
www.wetwebmedia.com/aclimcoralslight.htm
Thanks for the reply! The page wouldn't work though.......
Ray
<Please try this one:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
Bob Fenner>
Glass reducing light
How much of a problem will the extra glass
cause in light penetration? Will it reduce light effectiveness by 10%
25% 50%? Thanks - Mark
<depends on the nature and thickness of the
glass of course. "White" glass [trade names like Diamante and Starfire]
will admit more/most light. Regular plate glass is somewhat restrictive.
Low-E glass is common and can be very restrictive. All are more
restrictive as thickness increases. You need to know the thickness and
nature of the glass you have to answer this question, my friend. No one
answer here. Best regards, Anthony> Lighting Distribution
Hello! I do not remember why (maybe I read it somewhere), but I thought
it was important for the light bulbs to go across the whole tank. I am
looking at 48" CF's and with double bulbs each reaches about 3/4 of the
way across from opposite sides, totaling 110W. Does it matter?
<Somewhat, in that you will only have indirect lighting in some areas,
but not a major concern.>
If not, can I get 2 separate 24" hoods (55
watts each) and run them on two separate timers?
<I don't think that
will make much of a difference.>
Thanks, Rich
<You are welcome.
-Steven Pro> Marine Lighting
Greetings WWM Crew!
I'll
try to keep it short and sweet!
I am currently in the construction
phase of a planned 75G Reef and am basically DIY on everything besides
skimmer and the tank itself. I am now working on the plans for the
lighting and am very confused as to which direction to go after reading
all the FAQ's, consumer info, etc. (sometimes too much is as bad as too
little).
I have really been leaning towards going with an IceCap 660
and wiring 4 3ft. 96Watt Compact Fluorescent lights to it but seem to be
unable to find a good supply of these 4 pin bulbs, including
waterproofing caps, etc. I know AHSupply.com has the PC kits including
the ballast (inferior to Icecap?) and reflector but no waterproofing is
apparent in that kit for where the bulb connects.
I seem to be having
a hard time finding the connectors, bulbs, etc if I want to DIY.
I
have spent a lot of time on Philips and Panasonic but those Compact
Fluorescents are not listed on their sites. Could you guys give me a
heads up where I might be able to find those parts and if you think for
the 75gal that that would be the "ideal" solution?
Thanks again to
the crew for all the wonderful info and help! I know I will be a long
time visitor and sending many others as well! Thank you! Thank you!
Thank you!
<I am currently building a canopy for one of my
tanks. For the bulbs and fixtures I had to support my LFS. That is not
to say that there are not better places to find this stuff, check out
some of our sponsors. I would try to find a reef club in my area and
ask them, or just post a question on a chat forum, lots of people with
lots of opinions.
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/
http://reefcentral.com/
Sounds like a good setup depending on
what you plan to keep in the tank.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
Good luck, Gage>
Lighting
I am setting up a 70 gallon salt water aquarium. The
glass lid broke while in storage and the hood only holds two lamps that
meet in the center. For the lighting to be correct (live rock, coral,
etc.) I am assuming I need a hood that would hold 2 or 3, 48 inch bulbs.
My tank is older and does not have a support bar in the middle. Can you
recommend a solution for a new hood and lid? Also, what type of bulbs do
I need to produce the proper lighting?
Thanks, Kristy
< Yes, you
have a couple of major options: to build or buy an adequate housing/hood
to accommodate sufficient fixturing and release heat (if necessary). If
you want the fastest, though not cheapest route, take your old, broken
glass (or good INSIDE edge measurements) to a glass shop (you can find
them in your "Yellow Pages") or even a large "department store" retailer
like Home Depot/Lowe's (they have glass for sale and will cut, bevel it
for you), and maybe even check your retailer (with the dimensions
(outside this time) and pertinent notes so they can figure out the Brand
name of the manufacturer... and have a new glass made or replaced. The
real livestock store will have new, cuttable back-edge material that
will attach to the glass so you can cut out where your inputs/outputs
enter/leave the tank top. You can make a "hinge" with a bead of silicone
rubber (the store will show you how) by running and pinching a bead of
aquarium-use silicone between the front and back glass top panels.
Fixtures and lamps and a hood can be bought as units. I personally
prefer compact fluorescents for this size, shape aquarium for looks and
function...
Alternatively you can have made or make a canopy type
arrangement with or without a glass barrier. This needs to be tall
(quite tall if you're going to use Metal Halides), and have provisions
for ventilation. Possibly one or more "muffin" fans wired with your
timers to come on when the lights do... Manufacturers of pre-made
hoods/lighting can be found best in FAMA magazine (Freshwater and Marine
Aquarium), and contacted via the Net... once again, investigate your
possibilities before deciding. Much more on these issues can be found
under the subjects, light, lighting at the wetwebmedia.com site. Bob
Fenner> DIY lighting reflectors
I've been researching
lighting reflectors for a 60'' VHO system. I have ruled out aluminum
flashing but I would prefer to not spend the outrageous $8 + per foot
material that many online companies are selling. Any suggestions for a
DIY lighting reflector to go in a canopy for a reef tank?
<My fave is
the Mylar material coated/embedded in thin acrylic sheet. Light weight,
waterproof, easy to cut, adhere to most any surface, easy to keep clean,
high index of reflectivity...Look for this through large hardware
stores, acrylic outlets (check the local availability through the
phone/directory). Also, do read through the premiere DIY website of Oz'
Reef on other possibilities, for other input: http://www.ozreef.org/
Bob Fenner> Icecap ballast
Hey Bob. . . I got the Icecap
660 ballast today but I was surprised to find there was no power cord
nor was there a place to connect a power cord. What gives? How do you
connect this thing to the juice?
<Hmm, let's send this message off to
Perry Tishgart and gang at Champion Lighting (and Maurice) and ask them.
Some folks don't "include" a pigtail, power cord with their electrical
products, considering that "one size does not fit all" and instead
intend that the customer purchase or request this separately. Let's see.
Bob Fenner>
As always, thanks and keep up the good work!!!
David
Dowless Re: Icecap ballast
bob,
the ballast does not
come with a plug. the user can use an ice cap timer which is hard wired,
wire it to a switch, or simply splice a 3 prong plug to the white, black
and green power line.
Perry
<Ah, as I surmised. Thank you Perry.
Will post this to the appropriate FAQs files on our principal site
(WetWebMedia.com). Hope to run into you on the show circuit. Going to
Interzoo in May?
Bob Fenner> A few quick questions
(lighting electrical concerns)
hi,
<Hello there>
I was
wondering if you could answer a few questions. I have a 55 G saltwater
reef tank with a 30 g sump, and have to move in the next 2 weeks to an
older apartment that unfortunately doesn't have much electricity. I have
a LN electronic ballast that runs 4 x 110 W VHO bulbs (the LN is from
Premium Aquatics, it's the equivalent of the IceCap 660). I was
wondering if you knew how many Amps this system uses?
<Hmm, sure
don't... would probably "just" test here, but you might contact Premium,
or even Perry Tishgart at Champion re his competitors draws>
The
follow up question is how many amps would it use if I ran 4 x 40 W
bulbs? (the bulbs are 46.5").
<Again, the only satisfying "answer"
for me would be to actually do my own test here... The calculated and
stated amperage will not be the same... do you have a friend/accomplice
electrician or physics lab cohort who has wrap around induction type
test gear? Very simple to use.>
The last question is what do can you
feed bubble-tipped anemones? it's a lot of work to reach into the tank
and give each one bits of fish, so I was curious if there are
supplements to add to the water that work as well.
<Lots of light...
and occasional (once, twice weekly) meaty feedings (get, use plastic
tongs... they're made for this and other aquatic purposes by Eheim,
Tetra, AZoo...>
thank you very much for your help,
Ben
<Be
chatting, Bob Fenner> Regarding your response to the
lighting question yesterday, I too have a 55 gallon tank that is 48"
long. You indicated that you like a single MH 175 w with 2 regular
actinic bulbs. When I look in your catalog I see the light is 24" long.
Is this adequate for a 48" tank? Also there is a fan cooling option. Is
this something I should get or does it not really matter? I am not
familiar with these lights. Do they hang above the tank? I assume
they are too hot to sit on top of a tank with a glass cover / shield.
Thank you for all of your information.
>>
Hmm, the twenty four
inch lamps would be okay... if one is positioned all the way to the
front right, the other all the way to the left back... and no to a fan
if you're going to mount the metal halide high enough, leaving the top
mostly open to allow light through... I would not enclose a/the metal
halide... and would leave off with as much of a glass or other cover...
instead fashioning a canopy type of arrangement with some front and back
panels to affix the actinics/fixtures to.
Bob Fenner who wishes he
could draw an image of this...
|
|
