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Please help! (refugium), des. 1/8/09 Hey, <Hello Mike, Minh at your service.> I don't mean to bother you guys with petty questions, but I'm in need of some help. <No problem, mate. That is why we're here.> I recently got a 30 gal tank (salt water). Dimensions: w 24", h 24", d 12"... I would like to set up a refugium under the cabinet I built (a 10 gal tank). I have a Fluval 205 filter/pump. My question is how would I plumb this system? I feel there should be some simple answer and the more I research the more confused I am becoming. I really appreciate this site guys! Its become my home page (ha ha) as I am new to marine setups. <There are two options for you to ponder. First, if you'd like to keep your current configuration and have your 10 gallon refugium under your cabinet, then it will essentially act as your sump. You will need a way to get water from the display tank above to it, such as a built in or hang on overflow (such as this unit: http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=FI-TT1318). Then you will need a return pump to get water from the refugium back into the display tank. Obviously, this option would require much more effort. Second, this option is much more elegant and one that I would recommend. Essentially, you will use your 10 gallon as a "behind-tank-refugium" (such as this unit: http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=FI-CVOCT-REF14) and it will gravity drain back into the display tank. You will need to find a way to elevate the 10 gallon tank above and behind your display tank. Then use the output of your Fluval filter to pump water into one side of the refugium, similar to the right side of the commercial model in the link. Then drill near the top and opposite side of the refugium and install a drain valve, similar to the left side of the commercial model in the link. This method has several advantages over the other. For example, you will not need any additional equipment such as overflow or return pump so it's cheaper and more efficient. Also, using a gravity drain to get water from the refugium back into the display tank will allow a safe path for micro fauna to enter the display tank as oppose to getting chewed up by a return pump. Here are two additional links for more information on refugium/sump designs: Refugium/Sump Primer: http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html Excellent Refugium Bulb: http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html.> Thank you so much! -Mike <You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.> Refugium Design 1/3/09 Hello crew, <Hello Jesse, Minh at your service.> I currently have a 220g FOWLR that has been set up for over 2 yrs. While I have not lost a fish in over a year and a half, I have had a constant battle with nitrates. I have a heavy bio load and occasional algae blooms. My wet dry has been successful, but I am thinking about creating a refugium that the sump would actually sit in. Eventually I will remove the bio balls overtime. <Removing the bio-balls overtime would go a long way in addressing your elevated nitrate issue. Likewise, adding a refugium will also add to the cause in the long run. For more information, here is an excellent read on Nitrate and the marine aquarium: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm.> I have attached my thought of how to do this and would like any advice you may have. I plan to drill two holes into the sump where my skimmer would be located and to raise it in a Rubbermaid tub to enable more water to flow/accumulate for a deeper bed. <After reviewing your design, it appears to be a feasible plan. However, I do have some thoughts that you may want to implement in the final design. First, I have some concerns about the integrity of the new sump/Rubbermaid container itself. I'm not quite sure which one you have picked out but do be wary of the softer walled utility tubs that are available at department stores. I've seen many of these units warp under pressure over time. Space permitting, I highly recommend the Rubbermaid agricultural tub made in a flat design using rigid plastic (pictured here: http://media.mydoitbest.com/imagerequest.aspx?sku=741004&size=2&warehouse=C& newsize=200). This type of agricultural tub has been tested in aquarium application and its flat shape allows for maximum surface area which is ideal for macro/algal growth. Second, to maximize Chaetomorpha growth, you will need to have optimal flow and light for this macro algae. Chaetomorpha grows best when it receives sufficient flow and the drain from your sump/skimmer may not be enough to optimize its growth rate. You may need to implement a "spray-bar" to achieve this. The second part of the equation is light and the TCP P38 5100k lamp is ideal. You can find more information about this bulb here: http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html. Lastly, as your new refugium matures and you continue to remove the bio-balls from your wet/dry filter, you may want to consider using that area for another refugium or algal/turf scrubber. There are many plans for such a conversion available online.> This is my first attempt at this and I am trying to do it on the cheap if possible. I have been reading like crazy and decided I would take a run at this thing myself. Any advice would be much appreciated. <I suspect your plans will work well. The refugium will be a powerful addition to your tank if given plenty of time to mature.> Thank you for what you do the help us long time learners. Jesse <You're welcome and good luck with your new project. Cheers, Minh Huynh.> Refugium Setup 11/24/08 Hey crew, First and foremost, thanks for the wonderful and informative site. <Thank you.> I have two small questions regarding a new fuge on an existing system. First a brief overview of existing tank. 3 year old 75 gallon mixed garden reef with mostly SPS and LPS, and quite a bit of them, roughly 100lbs. mixed rock and a 3''-6'' deep Fiji pink sand (depending on my *%$#* wafting Tomato). At the moment I only have a 2" Tomato (who I plan on taking out after I catch him that is), a Lavender Tang, and a Sixline Wrasse. I have the BakPak system Rapids Pro PS3 (which in my opinion is junk). There are three compartments that house media, 1 for filter floss pad, 1 for bio-balls, 1 for glass cylinders and carbon. Hope that is sufficient info for my question. I am using a 55G I have laying around for the fuge. I read recently about cycling the new fuge before hook up. <Wow, awesome.> I was going to do a rather large water change to fill the fuge, cycle it long enough to clean all the sand dust out ( hopefully a few days), then all in the same day put the bio-balls and cylinders in the fuge (slowly removing throughout a couple weeks as I replace it with rock) and plumb it in. Every thing beyond that would be done slowly. Is that too much stress to put on my tank considering it's age and amount of rock and sand? <No, your rock is already doing the bulk of the work anyhow.> Also I plan on a much bigger skimmer being employed at the time of hook-up. I am using the return pump from the old in the new, so I can't run them both at the same time. The main point of this is to upgrade skimmer and nutrient export. I plan on a DSB and Macro in the fuge. In the future I am planning on putting a cool fish in there so I want to build a pod population. Because of these things is it OK to put the skimmer in the third compartment that houses the return pump so the fuge gets raw water from DT? <I would not, you want any pods to have a free and clear path to the return pump/display.> One more thing, like I said I am using the return pump from the old "sump" in the fuge. It is rated at 1000GPH (what a joke) but I will have about 8' at least of head. Do you think that will still be too high of a turnover rate for the fuge and skimmer to work their magic, considering I will have the water level in the fuge about 2''-4'' from the top? (since the tanks are so close in size I believe I can keep the water level in the fuge pretty high and just the fuge area alone should hold at least 30 gallons.) <The flow sounds like it will be fine at head height. Scott V.> Re: Refugium Setup 11/29/08 Thank you for the speedy reply, Scott V.. <My pleasure to assist.> After some consideration I am making three compartments in the Fuge. The middle will hold the return pump and the water will be split from DT (half to Fuge and half to filter sock, skimmer, etc.) That way my fuge gets raw water and also pods will have a free and clear path to return pump. <Sounds good.> Through more sitting, observing, and thinking, I have another question on media choice in the fuge. I have seen reverse flow undergravel filters put course media on bottom and sand on top of that. I was thinking I would do the opposite. Roughly 2''-3'' of sand (not sugar fine but one step larger) on the bottom for my denitrification, and a course aragonite sand (sand not crushed coral) on top for the pods. Each bag is 20lbs. and is going in a 11.75''x28'' fuge portion of the 55gallon, so I should end up with 4''-6'' total depth of media. Does this sound like it will work or is there some reason I have never heard of this being done? <It is done, works fine.> Will the course sand on top make it deep enough to purge the bottom layer of oxygen considering the bottom layer will only be 3'' deep? (mind you there will not be a heavy flow going through fuge, approx. 200-300GPH on approx. 30 gallons of fuge) <I would go ahead and go 4" on the finer layer.> One more question. I have horrible city water where I live. (city water is taken from IL River) Will I be OK rinsing the sand with city water first to remove the bulk of the dust, then a final rinse with RO water, or do you think the sand will hold some of the phosphate and other undesirables through the RO rinse and make it in to the tank? <Rinsing in tap water first will be fine unless your water there is practically pea soup!> Thank you so much in advance. <Welcome, Scott V.> Again props to Bob on all the wonderful literature and a PHENOMENAL website. <He will read through this!><<Ahh, yes. Welcome. BobF>> Sump/Refugium chamber order 11/15/08 Hi Guys, unbelievably in-depth and expansive resource you've put together. Thank you all for your time! <A collaborative effort; thank you!> I'm working on a sump design for my 90g reef tank. I'd like to use Ogo (Gracilaria?) <yes> in the refugium section since I'm a sashimi fan, which I realize will require some design finesse to keep it "tumbling". To help facilitate that I'm thinking of incorporating adjustable control of the flow through the refugium into my design. How I accomplish this will depend on the order of my sump's sections, which leads me to my questions that I haven't found answered after lots of reading. It seems that the recommended sump section order is skimmer and refugium on either end, with the return in the middle. Overflows draining into skimmer and refugium. <It is one way, generally allows for a larger refugium since the water level in the refugium can be higher, not dependant on skimmer chamber flow through.> -Wouldn't the skimmer catch more junk if all the tank's overflow was passing through it, instead of some passing only through the refugium at each pass? <It does to a point. Running too much water through the skimmer will decrease dwell time. This will also decrease skimmer output, to nothing if too much water is run through. > -Would the refugium (and therefore the tank) be happier with skimmed or unskimmed water? <I would go ahead and plumb one of your overflows over to the refugium, feed it raw aquarium water.> My gut tells me that ideally all overflow would pass through the skimmer, then refugium, then return. This would seem easiest to do by arranging the sump sections in the same order. If my gut isn't lying this time, do you know of any design ideas/plans/pics on allowing some skimmed water to bypass the refugium to facilitate the adjustability I feel I might need? <Do check out http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html. Marc has a number of designs posted here.> Thanks a ton! <Welcome, Scott V.> Chaetomorpha refugium 10/27/08 Hey Crew! Who's at the wheel today? <Scott V. with you.> I've gone through the RefugDSB FAQ's, and found the answers I was looking for with the exception of a couple of questions. <Good, a wealth of knowledge there.> First, I have a 20g sump/refugium underneath my 65g tank, and I've been using Chaetomorpha in it for about 5 months now (alternate lighting cycle with 18w 6700k compact fluorescent). I bought less than a handful, and its now breaching the water surface! <Great!> Other postings have said to harvest it, but I haven't found anything that says what the best size to cut it back to would be (refugium is 18" long by 6" wide by 24" deep). Some say tumbling, some say not for chaeto. <You can tumble chaeto., but it is not a necessity. I like to harvest weekly, about that which grows in the week.> Am I just aiming for good water flow through the refugium? <Yes, the same principle as the display, to keep detritus from building up in any one spot.> Second, how do I know when my refugium is starting to produce zooplankton? <You will be able to see them, more so at night, to some extent.> I have some soft corals (green star polyps, Ricordia, green spotted mushrooms), and aside from weekly iodine and trace elements dosing, I've been lightly adding Marine Snow a couple times a week. <Not a product I would use nor recommend. See WWM re.> Thanks for all you do. I roughly estimate that you have saved me no less than thousands of dollars and one divorce in avoided stupid mistakes! Sean <Heee, quite a chain of events! Welcome.> Refugium Setup 10/27/08 Hi Guys! <Hello Dean.> Thanks for a great web site. It's has helped me make improvements to my tank, many I would never have thought of. <Great!> The latest one is to add a refugium. First, my tank is a 55 gallon system, 36x18x18, with just a few fish and corals (two false clowns and a lawnmower blenny, a finger leather, and some star polyp). I plan to stick to soft corals - I know SPS and LPS are popular, but my first sight of reef while snorkeling was soft corals, and I am really hooked on them. But I digress. <We all have our taste.> I have read much of your information on refugiums, but I am not sure I have assimilated it all yet. So I would like to lay out my plan, and if you could tell me what you think I would really appreciate it. <Okay.> For my refugium I plan to hook up 2 systems - a 10 gallon tank, and a small Ecosystem refugium I picked up at a yard sale, holds about 5 gallons. The tank I plan to use for my plant refuge, with a sand bed and PC lighting, and growing Chaetomorpha. The 5 gallon system I plan for fauna. I have some filter pad material I plan to cut up, and place in it, with no lighting. If this works out, I will expand it, but that's the plan. Any thoughts? <Sounds fine. I myself would opt for live rock or even dry rock over the filter pad, but it can and will work.> Thanks for the help Dean <Welcome, Scott V.> Re: Refugium Setup 10/27/08 Thanks Scott. Will add the live rock, and feed with shrimp pellets per Calfo/Fenner's book. Dean <Sounds good, have fun, Scott V.> Small Refugium Impact (can't hurt) -- 10/25/08 Hi all, <<Greetings Marc>> I was looking into making a refugium out of an Emperor 400. I was reading the article by Steven Pro about the Hagen filter being able to be converted. I was looking at filling it with just macro algae. My question is, do you think it will make an impact on a 75 gallon tank? <<Probably not a significant impact with a container this size, but it also can't hurt>> Or should I just wait off and get the CPR hang-on refugium that has a 4 gallon capacity? <<No reason not to go ahead with the Emperor conversion (although likely not significant as stated, it will provide 'some' benefit) now, and upgrade when you can>> These are the only two options I can think of, since my tank doesn't have an overflow, and I don't trust the siphon overflows. <<I see'¦and share your concern, but'¦have you considered 'two' siphon overflows. Utilizing a pair of these devices, with the return flow rate from the sump/refugium adjusted such as if you only had one installed, creates a redundant condition that can make the use of these devices much safer/reliable Any other suggestions? <<Just made one>> And if I was to convert it to refugium, would be alright to just have a few pieces of live rock in there with macro algae, or should I put some sort of substrate in there? <<Many ways to go about this'¦and what you propose is just fine'¦but I would probably choose the method that allows maximizing space for the macroalgae as I think this material is going to give the most bang for the buck in this small volume re nutrient reduction and as a matrix for 'critters'>> Thanks again, Marc <<Cheers, EricR>> Re: Small Refugium Impact (can't hurt) -- 10/27/08 Thanks for the help, <<You're welcome>> seeing if you can answer another question for me. <<Okay>> I think the only solution for the immediate future, due to budget, would be to convert the power filter. <<Okay>> Do you think a regular florescent bulb (not a t5 or power compact) would be sufficient for the macro algae? <<It is possible, yes'¦be sure to position the bulb low towards the water's surface>> Or would I not need a light? <<A higher light intensity may increase growth'¦but like with the filter conversion, it won't hurt to try the NO fixture first>> And, I'm sorry, another question'¦ <<No worries>> Do you think using the filter would be more beneficial than using it with filter pads? <<A refugium provides filtration/benefits in a different way and is a useful adjunct to any system'¦but considering the small size of the vessel, the power filter'¦used as the manufacturer intended and cleaned/serviced regularly'¦is likely more 'efficient' in this instance>> Right now, for filtration, I have 80 lbs. of live rock, and a Remora Pro Protein skimmer. I'm just trying to make the best of what I have, or just make some minor adjustments. Thanks again, Marc <<Happy to share. EricR>> D.A.S. Filtration Replacement Question -- 09/10/08 Hi, <<Hello!>> I currently have a 120g reef tank with all of the wonderful refugium benefits. <<Refugiums are good!>> I acquired a 75g D.A.S. that is FOWLR. <<Ah yes'¦the 'self-contained' units from Dutch Aquarium Systems>> My questions is: Can I remove the filter spool in the first chamber of the system and replace with LR and Macro Algae and place a light over it like a mini-fuge? <<Sure'¦ And though this 'spool' is also likely a large component of the built-in biological filter, this can be 'replaced' with adequate live rock in the display and maybe the addition of a small fluidized-bed filter to assist with the highly fluctuation bio-load of FOWLR systems (depending on species kept/stocking densities/feeding requirements)>> I would leave a small spool in the return chamber to catch miscellaneous crud. <<Should be fine>> Thanks for your advice. Rhonda <<Happy to share. EricR>> Refugium/Sump Design 7/27/08 Hi folks, <Hello D.> I'm a bit confused and need some of your guidance if possible ( cue the angelic music ). I have inherited a 90g fishtank from my brother. Yay Bro! I have about 50lbs of liverock and an ETSS Reef devil skimmer (used good condition, new pump). I'm attempting to construct an under the tank refugium/sump with a 30g tank, my biggest problem currently is baffle placement/compartment size. I understand the concept but I'm having trouble with the skimmer and recommended water height and how to keep the level as stable as possible while retaining an adequate level for refugium area. <I understand, the typical skimmer/refugium/return setup does lose quite a lot of water volume in the refugium compartment due to the need for a lower water level in the skimmer compartment. Splitting your overflow lines up, running one to the skimmer compartment on one end of the sump, while running the second to the refugium on the opposite end, putting the return area in the middle with the other two overflowing into it will give you much more refugium volume independent of the water height in the other sections.> Perhaps 30g is too small? <Larger would not hurt, but 30 is fine.> My second concern is I don't have the means ( or money..dang spouse watches my spending whenever I say fishtank now :P ) to get an automatic top off system, and have concerns about running the system too low if I am away for a day or two. <Realize all your evaporation will show in the pump return section. The larger you make this, the better. Run the water level as high as you can in this section. Which ever return pump you use, put an elbow pointing down to draw water from the lowest point possible. Other than that, evaporation is going to happen. If you will be gone for too long, you will simply have to find someone you trust to top off for you.> Any suggestions you can provide will be greatly appreciated, right now my brain is ready to explode with all the different info I have gathered online, a clear and concise set of answers would help a ton!! <I know the feeling. Keep reading and keep learning!> Thank you, D. Jandron <Welcome, have fun, Scott V.> Sump/refugium question... more reading, contemplation -- 07/21/08 Hi guys, <Sean> And thank you for the wonderful service you provide to get the knowledge out to the masses. <Welcome> My question is regarding a sump/refugium. I have read through your articles and FAQ's, and I would like to know if the set-up I have is OK, if I should add to it, or modify it. I am doing a 75 gallon reef tank, drilled for overflow, <Hopefully overflows, plural> upgrading from a 40 gallon due to algae problems and inadequate filtration, ie: canister filter. The tank was nice for about a year or two and then I slowly lost almost everything. <Ahhh> I now have a CPR Cyclone Bio-Filter with built in protein skimmer, around 20 -30 gallons of volume in the filter. I believe the filter is rated for 150 gal tank. I have modified the filter to hold miracle mud, mixed with peat <Like peat moss? I would not do this... too likely to get loose, be a mess> and topped off with culpeara. I have removed the original protein skimmer, I did not like the design, and added a Aquarium Systems, Seaclone 100 skimmer to the filter. <You'll learn. I'd replace this> I was getting too many stray bubbles with the old skimmer; although, it was much larger in diameter than the Seaclone. For the biological compartment, I have removed the Bio-Bale and returned to the ceramic rings. I have also added carbon for a few days to help remove some of the water discoloration from the peat. The way the set-up is now the ceramic rings are always submerged, it is no longer a trickle or wet/dry. My return pump it probably outputting 400 to 500 gph, but this is just an estimate. Could be lower, but I can't imagine by much. If you would like, I can include a picture of the filter at a later date. <Okay> Do you think this is a good set-up that will afford my fishies longer life and myself less maintenance to the system? I am new to the sump/refugium scene, so any information is greatly appreciated. <Mmm, I'd get rid of the peat... change-out the skimmer... look to some way to section off (to slow flow down) the area with the mud and algae, switch the Caulerpa out for a more appropriate species... rig up some appropriate lighting, RDP arranged> Also, what do you recommend the lighting cycle should be for the sump? <Posted as well...> At my LFS the guy recommended 8 hours of light, but in reading some of the FAQ's on your site, some people are saying 24 hrs. <Only for Caulerpacean culture under certain circumstances> It is currently set to turn on when my main Metal Halides turn off <Ah, good> so that something always has a light cycle. My MH are on for about 9 hrs and the sump lights for about 15. <Please do switch out the Caulerpa...> Again, thank you for the wonderful service, and any information to help this beginner is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards, Sean <I'd keep reading for now: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm The second tray down... Bob Fenner>
Using a BioCube 8 as a Refugium for a BioCube 29 6/10/08 Good Morning Crew Member! <Hi there Jim!> Thank you for your time. <A pleasure to help.> I ran a successful BioCube 8 gallon reef tank for six months and gradually upgraded to a BioCube 29 gallon. The larger tank is coming along splendidly, and I'd like to ensure its continued growth. For filtration I am currently using LR, LRR, a Tunze skimmer, a bag of Chemipure, and a bit of filter floss to polish the water. The tank inhabitants consist of mostly SPS corals -xenias, frogspawn, various mushrooms, star polyps, etc; and, a couple of clowns and a Scarlet Hawkfish (love that guy!). Also a CUC consisting primarily of snails and hermits. <Sounds like a lovely tank.> My inquiry regards whether the use of a refugium is indicated. Would the BC-8 make a good refugium with Chaeto, live sand, etc? <Oh yes, a fine sized refugium in relation to the main display, very beneficial.> I am unable to use the second chamber in the BC29 as a fuge because the Tunze is in there. <A worthwhile use of the space, a good skimmer.> My primary concern is to provide a healthier environ for my corals. I guess I'm a little confused in that the BC8 fuge would have its own independent filtration system going. <For the ease of things you may want to consider removing all filter media and just use the filtration for circulation within the refugium.> Perhaps the water into the 8 gallon would come from the 29 gallon and the water out from the fuge would be pumped into the 29 gallon? <Exactly the procedure.> I feel as if I've asked a couple of really dumb questions, although I really do understand the concept of refugiums. <It is something a bit abstract if you are new to the idea, it becomes clear quickly when you go to actually plumb it up.> WWM has such a huge plethora of information on refugiums; is there a specific area that talks about marrying up two, different-sized, all-in-one tanks? <Not on two all in one tanks in particular, but this will work as any other tank/sump configuration for plumbing. A hang on the back overflow in the display, or a drain hole drilled will drain water to the refugium. In the refugium you will just need a pump matched to the overflow (GPH) pumping back to the display. More information in the link below and related FAQ's.> Thank you so much. Jim <Very welcome, have fun, Scott V.> http://wetwebmedia.com/ovrflowboxfaq4.htm Refugium Question 5/24/08 I have refugium set up with live mud and Caulerpa. The tank is about 9 months old but recently we have been having elevated nitrate problems. We do pretty regular water changes and just recently did total of 60% water change and the nitrates are still at 20. <After a 60% change, yikes!> I have been told that refugiums with mud can eventually crash and or create high nitrates. <No more so than any other refugium if detritus is allowed to accumulate within.> Should I get rid of the mud and just leave it with the Caulerpa. What are your thoughts on refugiums with live mud? ( I'm not trying to feed my main tank). <I personally choose a fine aragonite sand, primarily because of cost. The only real issue I have with the mud is the false belief some have that it eliminates the need for a skimmer. Although a skimmer is never required, it does go a very long way towards maintaining a good water quality. It simply makes things easier/less work.> Thank you Greg <Do look into other contributors here: flow, feeding, filtration, detritus accumulation (substrate, mechanical filtration), etc. The following link and related FAQ's will help you sort out which of these factors may apply to your situation. Welcome, Scott V.> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm Refugium Setup 4/27/08 I've been reading through your site and cannot find an answer to my question. First let me explain what I have and what I'm trying to do. I have a 12 gallon Aquapod HQI. I changed the return pump out with a Maxi-jet 900 and added the Hydor Flo to the output to create a current and also added a Nano Koralia pump in display to add more current. <OK, sounds good.> I have a 50 watt titanium heater that I have set at 80. I want to add a refugium. I bought a 2.5 gallon AGA and had it drilled to put a ½' bulkhead fitting for the return. I was going to place it above the Aquapod and have a Mindjet 404 pumping the water up to it with ½ ' supply line. I was going to play around with the flow to get it right. <The draining capacity will be very low and easy to plug. Do check the drain line often for algae buildup or anything else that may be restricting it.> I think a Nano Remora will fit on the end of it and was going to build a rectangular chamber for the Nano Remora pump so it does not suck up any macro algae and have the Nano Remora return supply the current for the algae. <You will be better off with the skimmer on the main tank if you have the room.> The light will be a Coralife Mini 6700K and be sitting on stands that I built for it and will run on the reverse cycle of the main tank. I will be using Chaeto for my algae. <Sounds good.> If the Nano Remora does not fit on the end then I will hang it on the back of the main tank. <The better choice.> Here is my question: With such a small refugium will I need a heater in it to heat it or will the water being pumped into it be just fine for keeping the temperature at an acceptable level? <Your main system's heater will keep the temperature up in the refugium too, no problem.> Will you email me back or do I need to go and read your site to find my answer? <All emails are responded to, but reading the site will only increase your knowledge. I personally find myself constantly learning something new from WWM.> Thanks for any help that you can provide. Shawn <Welcome, have fun, Scott V.> Refugiums, des./filter media 4/9/08 Hello again, <Hi Shawn> My question for today is, in my refugium after the water goes through the area with the live rock rubble, sand and algae it overflows into the chamber where the return pump is located. Where the water overflows is a piece of foam to catch debris coming out of that section. Does the foam prevent any critters that the refugium produces from entering the next area, hence not making it into the main tank. Should this foam be removed or will the plankton pass through the foam. <I would remove the foam or at least replace with a coarse sponge to trap larger particles of waste. The plankton will then find their way (much more easily) into your tank and continue multiplying and providing food there.> Thanks in advance, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Shawn Re: mystery growth, was Red Alg. Id, now refugium des. , 3/22/08 Bob, <... Mike> Thanks for your prompt and helpful response. I have another question. This one is about refugia. I have a 72 bowfront reef/75# of LR with a few fish. Specifically, three tank bred orchid Dottybacks and two tank bred clarkii clowns. Other livestock includes Gorgonia, soft corals and a variety of mushrooms and Ricordea. My tank has been up for about a year and all of my parameters have been stable. SG=1.025; T=76F; NH3/NO2/NO3=undetectable; CA++= ;alkalinity=8dkh. I also have an Eheim canister which runs carbon continuously (for allelopathy). After my refugium is well established I would like to keep a mandarin. I have not done a refugium yet and instead have lurked about WetWeb and read a variety of books (CA included). My intent is to have a refugium that will be worth looking at... I have purchased a 40 acrylic and plan to situate it in front of (and below-no way to place it above) my main tank. The plan is to begin with a DSB of 6-8", some live rock, a few pounds of GARF grunge <I'd save my money here> and the red algae from my display. The overflow from the display will drain into the refugium and be returned via a pump that came with the display tank. <Okay> Now to the questions (finally!) I would like to use Xenia for nutrient export. I would like to have other interesting species in the refugium. I'm thinking about Tridacna and a variety of tube worms. I know Xenia don't need as much light as the clams. Will bright lighting be a problem for the Xenia? <Mmm, no, not likely... but one might "aim" the more intense light at the Tridacnid> Will this combination of critters adversely impact my plankton production since they are mostly filter feeders? <Not much... the type/kind of plankton you're hoping to produce... for the Mandarin won't be consumed much by the listed life> If I want to try Hippocampus will they be a problem for food production for the display? <This might be so... depending on species, size, number...> My red alga is presently in a corner of my display which is not extremely well lit. <Rhodophytes don't need/want much light intensity> If I move it into the refugium do I need to worry about the sudden increase in light intensity? <Perhaps so> mil gracias Mike <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Refugium/Sump design 3/12/08 Hello, <Kevin.> I am almost finished setting up a 210 with the following equipment: -Two 1200 MagDrive return pumps -Two Koralia 4 powerheads -150g RODI Reefkeeper Unit with ATO -Three 400w MH lights -100 lbs live sand in the main tank -200 lbs of live rock -Refugium -Protein Skimmer My goal is to have fish, live rock, crustaceans, and coral. I expect that initially I will have more fish than coral. <OK> I have ½ inch glass available and somebody that can assemble it into a tank 48 long, 16 high, and 17 wide. The plan so far is to have the pumps be internal. 1) Will this be of adequate size? <If your skimmer fits, yes.> 2) How wide should each chamber be? <Large enough to fit the skimmer in one chamber, large enough to house the two Mag Drives in the return and make the balance the refugium.> 3) What protein skimmer would you suggest? <An appropriately sized (see manufacturers recommendations) EuroReef, ASM or AquaC would be my three choices.> 4) What substrate would you suggest and how deep? <A fine aragonite sand 1' deep or less for aesthetics or 4'+ if you want to run a deep sand bed for NNR.> 5) Can you point me to a link or picture with a specific design for the refugium and any components associated with the refugium that I have not considered? < http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html has many sump/refugium configurations to choose from.> 6) Along with the design what would plumbing include between the tank and refugium and within the refugium. <First is your overflow drain lines, this is a whole discussion within itself. Do research the subject to be sure you have sufficient draining capacity for your pumps. Next, you can run plumb your return pumps directly to the tank. No plumbing within the refugium should be necessary, depending on the design you pick.> 7) Do you have any other suggestions that would help automate the system and provide me with an ideal setup given my plan. <My suggestion is to continue researching each aspect of your design. There is much useful information on WWM and other sites regarding the pros and cons of each.> Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Once I visited your website I changed from wanting to purchase a wet/dry system to knowing that I need a refugium. <This is a much better choice/way to go.> At this point I would rather make any suggested changes and do things right the first time. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with all of us who want to pursue this hobby. Thank You, Kevin Herman <You are welcome. You do have the basic concepts, just continue reading regarding applying different designs to your particular system. Each system is different, so you will have to decide! Have fun, Scott V.> Adding Baffles to Sump/Refugium 2/23/08 Hello to all. <Hello, Scott V. with you.> Mike here I want to modify a DIY sump/refugium out of a 40 long glass aquarium. I had the sump/refug running for about 6 months now and have been fighting micro bubbles the whole time. <Frustrating, isn't it?> So I finally decided to modify it a touch, adding in some baffles. My Question is this how much would the number of baffles affect the flow rate? <It shouldn't have a bearing on your flow rate at all.> I have tried different things with my down lines I have tried filter sponges you name it I have tried it. The return pump is hard plumbed and I even went around and put some silicon around all fittings. I thought maybe the fittings were water tight but not air tight I know it sounds dumb but I like I said I tried everything. <This doesn't sound dumb, all are valid issues.> I have three chambers now down lines, skimmer, and refug. I was going to add three 1 inch chambers at the end where my return pump is. My pump is external and does about 1200 gph. I have read and read on your site but didn't truly find the answer I was looking for. Any info. would be helpful. Hopefully this is enough info. for you guys to help me. Thank you and hope to hear back from you soon. <Your plan will work out fine, it will not be a problem with your flow. Check out the included link below, this is a nice way of installing bubble trap baffles. It will allow you to do so without tearing down your sump and you can easily adjust it to suit your needs. Welcome, have fun, Scott V.> http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm Refugium Questions... des. 2/11/08 I'm
setting up a 40 gallon refugium on my 180 gallon tank. My sandbed is
about 4-5 inches. (Thoughts on this would be appreciated, but not the
focus of my questions) <Sounds like a good plan.> What kind of
flow should I have? My flow right now is pretty low. ~100 gallons per
hour and this is just because it was the easiest way to set it up.
<I would up this to perhaps as high as 400-500 gph in this size
system and refugium.> I also thought it might be better to start
slow to prevent my tank from cycling with the addition of all that
sand. (Not sure if that would actually happen though). <Not unless
it was true live sand that needed to be cured.> And do I need
circulation in addition to the flow coming in from the sump? <You
can, in this case I would opt to increase the rate of flow through the
refugium a few hundred gph.> My other question has to do with
lighting. Is a 65w PC enough? <Yes, preferably in the 6500K
spectrum.> More than needed? <No, just keep the light as close to
the macroalgae as possible.> Just right? Would I be OK with a 44W
T5? I might be wrong on the exact wattage of the T5, but somewhere
around there. <I would go for the PC in this case, more wattage
while still using one bulb.> Thanks! |
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