Overflow... Not reef ready 4/29/08
I have a reef ready 90 with the built in overflow in the back. (older style?) I have a mag 9.5 return pump. The return goes from the sump to the bottom of the standpipe, maybe 24" then up into the overflow box another 24".
<OK>
The problem is I am getting a lot of noise from the overflow, I hear most of it from the top of the tank. The tank is equipped with the stock standpipes. After Googling I found that the overflow is rated for 600gph,
<And in reality only flow 300 without issues.>
and the mag 9 is 800gph @ 48" head, so why would I still be getting the air noise? Is there an adjustment I can make to make it more quiet?
<The fact of the matter is the 1” drain provided in these overflows cannot handle nearly what the Mag 9.5 can pump back up to the tank. At the very least this will be evident with the noise you are experiencing, at the worst you will end up with water on the floor. By forcing the drain to handle more than it can you will be forcing it to siphon somewhat, creating the gurgling and flushing noises you are hearing. You will need to put a ball valve on the output of the Mag and restrict the flow until the noise subsides.>
Thanks in advance
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Algae in Overflow Box 3/15/08
Greetings Crew.
<Hello Andy.>
I have a question regarding solutions to algal growth in my overflow box. My tank is not pre-drilled, so I have the old style hang-on-the-back overflow box. In December, I converted from a T5 HO lighting fixture to a larger metal halide fixture.
<OK>
Since I made this change, I've noticed that the first internal cavity of my overflow box tends to develop a large, thick mat of green hair algae that restricts water flow into my sump.
<This happens, it is a pain!>
A portion of the actinic PC bulbs in my new fixture hangs over my overflow box, whereas my old fixture was narrower and no part of it sat over the overflow box. I purchased a small flexible, spring-like filter cleaning brush and, after MUCH manipulation, was able to get it up and into the cavity. I was able to remove much of the algae, but this was a very difficult task because of resistance created by the algae and structure of the cavity and the flexibility of the brush. At first, I had luck only in scrubbing the sides of the cavity, as the brush would orient only outwards within the cavity. So, I decided to feed the brush handle through a short piece of PVC pipe once I got the brush inside the cavity, and this allowed for a little more stability of the brush and let me access more of the internal cavity. However, even using this method I was not able to completely clean the cavity. This was a lot of work--took me a good 2 hours of manipulation, moving my fixture off the tank, etc. Does anyone know of a better way, or a better tool, other than taking the overflow box off and soaking it in bleach for a few hours?
<Manually loosening a rinsing out is generally the best way, still a pain as you describe.>
I was thinking of covering my overflow box in aluminum foil to keep light out of the box, but I worry about the unintentional addition of aluminum/corrosion byproducts into my display caused by runoff if any water splashes, etc. on the foil.
Thanks for any insight.
Andy
<In your situation I would take the overflow box off, lightly sand the outside and paint it. This will keep the light out of it, preventing such a proliferation of the algae inside. Krylon Fusion spray paint will work well for this, it dries fast and adheres well to plastics. Welcome, I hope this helps you out, Scott V.> 

AWFUL bulkhead gurgling. Overflow Gurgling 2/11/08
Greetings gang!
<Wuf.>
I am having an awful issue with gurgling. After a fun-filled weekend of trying to get my 65 gallon tank drilled (read sarcasm in this), I FINALLY got it done.
<It is what counts!>
I have 2-1" bulkheads installed, with a Mag 7 in sump. The return line is "T'ed" off into 2 loc-line outputs. The new setup looks a TON better than the previous clunky clear overflow box I was using, BUT I am having one last issue with it (go figure).
<Growing pains.>
My drain lines gurgle. And gurgle. And gurgle. No stopping it. And it's driving me NUTS. To be honest, I can't even leave it running for the fear of angering my neighbor. Yes, it's THAT loud.
<Is it gurgling or flushing?>
I know the air getting sucked into the vortex going into the tube is causing it, but I cannot get it to stop to save my life. I've shoved a piece of airline tubing in it to try and 'break up' the vortex, but obviously it didn't work (otherwise, I wouldn't be writing this!).
Any suggestions would be great. I would like to be able to sleep without having to use ear muffs. :-(
-wuf
<Two things can cause gurgling/flushing noises. First is if the intake of the drain is exposed to the atmosphere. This will cause the noise of the water traveling through the line itself to be heard. This is why you see the PVC elbows pointing down on most overflows. The other is a siphon or partial siphon in the drain line. This will cause all sorts of noises, some sporadically. You will need to drill the PVC drain intake at the point that it starts going down to your sump for the airline tubing (I would actually get a bit larger tubing for this). Be sure to drill it to fit fairly snug. From this point you will want to slide the tubing up and down until you find a point at which it will eliminate this siphon effect. Good Luck, Scott V.>

Bulkhead leak 2/2/08   2/3/08
My 4 year old tank has a small drip coming from one of the bulkheads.
<Uh-oh.>
All-Glass tank with built-in overflows, using their own brand of overflow parts (stock stuff, nothing customized). How do I fix this?
<If it has gone four years and all of a sudden started leaking you likely need a new bulkhead (could be cracked) or at least gasket.>
Do I need to drain the entire 125 gallons to repair?
<No, you should be able to drain it below the top of the overflow box, drain the overflow and then replace the bulkhead/gasket. Good luck, Scott V.>

Overflow Issues…Sluggish Drain Lines – 09/30/07
I just recently moved and set up my 125 Gal. tank with a 29 Gal. refugium.
<<Neat>>
About a week after having it all run smoothly, the tank has started overflowing.
<<Uh-oh>>
I have two Durso Standpipes on opposite corners of the tank using 1" piping. The two overflows were joined at a T-fitting, which led to a ball valve, then a 45 degree coupling at the end, which is about 3-4 inches below the top of the water line of the overflow section of the refugium/sump.
<<Mmm, I see…having the two drain outlets conjoin at the “ T “ reduces the overall drain capacity of the pair as you have reduced all to a “single” one-inch drain from that point on>>
I have a Pentair Quiet One 3000 (780 GPH) running the return line on 3/4" piping. After it started overflowing the tank yesterday, I re-plumbed the overflow to allow both lines to run independently into the sump at about the same depth in the sump.
<<Ah, good>>
This didn't seem to have much effect.
<<Hmm…something else must be amiss. After subsequent head-loss, I would expect the flow rate of your stated pump to be fine for the two 1” drains (figure a maximum of 300gph per drain)>>
So, I tried to silicone the vent holes on the top of the end caps, which kept the overflow from draining at all.
<<Yes, an escape route for the entrained air is a necessity. You might even try some experimentation with inserting differing lengths of rigid tubing in to these vent holes to see if you can find where the air is trapped/building and thus most efficiently expelled/released, allowing more water down the drain>>
So, I gradually enlarged the vent holes. I noticed that one end (the end that is closest to the overflow section of the sump and flows nearly straight downward into it.) has a smaller vent hole, and drains at a much slower rate than the other end.
<<Hmm, sounds like maybe the designer of the system was trying to “balance” the flow rates between the two drains…which would only be possible by limiting the flow in one, thus reducing the overall rate even further (less than the 600gph max stated earlier)>>
Could I have a snail impeding the flow that severely on that one end?
<<Is a possibility, yes>>
And if so, how do I convince it to get out?
<<It will likely require disassembly of the standpipe or “poking” it out with some type of flexible instrument (semi-rigid plastic tubing)>>
Or is it more likely that my plumbing skills really suck?
<<Hard to say without more information on your plumbing configuration. But try removing the standpipes and see how the tank drains…if you’re lucky, any re-engineering may just be limited to these>>
Any suggestions you have are greatly appreciated.
<<It may well be that your plumbing design/configuration limits the drain capacity of these outlets more than realized. Once you determine there are no blockages (snails) in the lines, install a gate-valve on the output side of the pump and adjust the to where the drains can handle the flow and see if this is suitable…a flow of only a few hundred gallons per hour through the refugium should still be fine>>
Thank you,
Jules (Portland, Oregon)
<<Happy to share. EricR (Columbia, SC)>> <Bigger drain lines... RMF>

Corner Overflow Modification 9/12/07
I have a 90 gal and in the process of starting it over since I had a problem with algae.
The corner overflow acts like a tomb for crabs when they crawl up the overflow and fall down and in between. They die or something, trapped with no escape....
<Mmm, how can they crawl up the overflow, are they from the Batman family?:)>
I want to cut these baffle slits out with a Dremel and if I ever do add fish I can stuff rolled up fine mesh to prevent the fish from up drafting.
The sump is equipped with a bag filter so any critters are easily removed on bag replacement and placed back. Would it hurt to cut these slits out? Flow may even improve.
<Shouldn't hurt any. I cut a few of mine out to improve flow. James (Salty Dog)>
The aquarium is well out of its warranty so that's moot.

Rescue fish trapped in corner overflow  8/21/07
Hello. I have three small fish (blue Chromis, percula clown, and small blue hippo tang) trapped in the right?
<???>
overflow? of my 180g dual overflow tank. The intake and return pipes in the overflow ?make it very difficult to net them. I would like to rescue them and? keep them alive. They swim to the top every once in a while, but I've failed in my attempts to get them. Any suggestions? Can I flood the overflow to force the water over the top?
Thank you,
Sol W.
<Turn off, drain the part of the system and net back into the main tank? Screen? the intake? Bob Fenner?>

Re: rescue fish trapped in corner overflow – 08/21/07
Thank you for your quick response. My other question is that when I drain part of the system, and refill the main tank, should my return pump be off or on, since i am trying to force water over the top of the overflow back into the tank, and hopefully the three fish along with it??
<Mmm, my friend... you need to turn all off, drain this line, and remove these fishes... possibly with just your wet hand. RMF>

Mis-Balanced Overflows/Closed-Loop – 07/02/07
Hello!
<<Howdy>>
I have a RIO 2100 that was in my Miracle wet-dry that I replaced with a Mag 7.
<<Okay>>
I went to put the RIO back in the wet dry/sump, (no bio balls) and the water overflowed in my tank.
<<This was in a addition to the Mag-Drive pump?…overwhelmed the overflow drain>>
Ok I shut it off went out bought an intake hose and box cause I figured there wasn't enough water to the sump.
<<Siphon overflows, eh? Always a good idea to have more than one>>
So I set up the extra intake for the sump and now the sump over flows.
<<Something doesn’t make sense here. It doesn’t matter how many overflow drains you have on the tank, the total volume “drained” to the sump won’t exceed the volume of water being pushed to the tank by the return pumps. With the pumps off, the sump should hold the transient water volume without overflowing (if not, the working water height in the sump is too high, the overflow boxes in the tank are positioned too low, or likely a combination of the two). This is the “static” water level within the sump. When you turn the pumps on, the water level in the sump should fall until enough water is pumped to the tank overflows to drain back down to the sump at the same rate it is being pumped. At this point the water level in the sump is at its “working” height. If this is too low (i.e. – the pumps are sucking air/causing bubbles), merely adding more water to the sump will cause the sump to overflow when the pumps are off. You will need to experiment with the height of the skimmer boxes in the display tank to allow you to add more water to the sump to keep the pumps adequately submerged, but not overflow same when the pumps are off. You don’t mention the dimensions of your sump, but another possibility here is that this vessel is merely too “shallow” for its intended purpose>>
All I want is to get rid of the dumb power head in the tank and use my RIO 2100 to pump from a closed-loop to circulate.
<<Mmm, do you understand what a closed-loop really is? Please read here and among the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbretfaq3.htm>>
Please help.
<<Am trying…>>
It's a 54 corner so I have limited room underneath but I even tried to use a bucket for the loop with pump to no avail.
<<Understood, but what you are trying to achieve (closed-loop) will likely not be possible utilizing a siphon overflow>>
Thanks
<<Welcome. EricR>>

Need help with a tank stand--can't tighten bottom bulkheads due to wood center brace  6/20/07
Hi there,
I'm hoping you can help me. I have a Perfecto 150-gallon glass aquarium whose dimensions are: 48" long, 24" wide and 30" tall. The tank has plastic center braces on the top and bottom. The stand for the tank is wood and supports it fully around all edges; the top is fully open but with a wood center brace running vertically through the center.
Recently I had the tank sent out to an aquarium company to have the glass bottom drilled for two bulkheads along with an internal overflow box installed. I just got the tank back today, and they did a beautiful job. However, when the tank was set back on its stand, the wood center brace on the stand was too wide to allow me to fully tighten the bulkheads underneath.
<Doh!>
I asked the company who did the work what I could do to rectify this--they said I could notch a cutout in either side of the wood center brace to accommodate the bulkhead fittings.
<Mmmm>
However, I'm worried that this will compromise the integrity of the stand--
<Yes>
I don't want it collapsing and spilling 150 gallons of water on the floor. Could you guys help me out as to what I should do--should I consult with an engineer first or is it okay to do this modification?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
<Well... likely a "thinner" nut can be found... or the through-hull/bulkhead fitting reversed (with the throat up, perhaps shaved, cut down...) and an extra gasket found for both sides... and a smear of Silastic on both sides... that will do here... Perhaps with some shaving of the wood twixt the tank and stand to accommodate... If push comes to proverbial shove, you might need to consider adhering the (likely PVC) fitting directly onto the tanks glass... and dedicating yourself to never jarring it... Otherwise, the worst... giving up on the present holes, sealing over them (with glass panel/s and Silastic) and having the tank re-drilled. I agree with your NOT cutting through the manufactured stand support... UNLESS you feel comfortable (YOU!) with replacing this support (and losing the manufacturer's warrantee) with two new ones, placed on either side... Which is really what I'd do... Cheers, BobF>

Re: Need help with a tank stand--can't tighten bottom bulkheads due to wood center brace   6/21/07
Wow! Thanks so much, Bob, for your kind reply!! I really loved your book, by the way; it really helped me get started with my tank! Plus I've learned so much by reading through all the articles and FAQ's from WetWeb Media; you guys are great! I think I've come up with a plan for my stand. I'd really rather not mess around with the bulkheads; I only really need to notch the wood 1/4" on either side, but leave the center brace in place, and I think I'll place two new boards on either side, like you advised. I really don't want to have the tank re-drilled: it took the company forever to get the work done; I'd consider getting a new stand before doing that. Anyway, thank you so much, Bob, you've really helped me out!
<Ah, good! Cheers, BobF>

Hang-On Overflow Noise (Water Volume vs. Pipe Diameter) – 05/14/07
I just upgraded my 29 gal reef to a CPR100 overflow and draining into a 10 gal sump.  I decided to hard pipe the overflow in with 3/4pvc and two elbows.  No matter how I position the straight down tube into the sump sock I get the constant sucking and releasing sound in the box.
<<You are likely trying to push too much water through the overflow.  The 1” bulkhead that comes with the overflow will only handle about 300gph (yeah, I know they are rated for more flow...just not practical), by reducing the output diameter to ¾” as you have done with the PVC pipe you have reduced the flow capacity even more to about 150gph or so...which is more than enough, by the way, for this tank/sump combination in my opinion>>
Will the Durso pipe solve this problem of noise?
<<I have seen what looks like a modified/compact version of the “Stockman” standpipe for hang-on overflow boxes (see here:  http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-overflow/74.asp), but whether or not it will help is probably a matter of trial and error.  It may help smooth flow a bit but if you are getting a surge effect as you describe you will probably have to back off on the pump output from the sump (easily accomplished with a gate-valve plumbed in-line after the pump)>>
Even if I put the sump pipe under water it still makes and ton of noise and I am really trying to understand this problem.  I want the tank to run with the least amount of noise as possible and the splashing in the sump will be easy to fix if I can get the overflow to stop sucking and making gurgling noises.  Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
Will
<<Definitely sounds like a case of too much water volume coupled with a too small throughput diameter to me.  Regards, EricR>>

Over flow box: air bubbles break siphon  4/5/07
<Hi Brian, Mich with you today.>
Please help!
<Will try!>
I can't find any specific solution to the tiny bubbles which break my siphon.
<I think I may know what the problem is, but I have a couple of questions first.  Are you using a U tubes or do you have a continuous siphon overflow box?  Do you know where the air bubbles are coming from?  Do you know why you are getting air bubbles?  The attachment is not coming through.  Could you resend the photo?  It may be helpful in trouble shooting your problems.>
I've looked at the provided links for hours and have also done many of my own searches, and still nothing.  Thanks for your time,     
<Welcome!  -Mich>

Over flow box: air bubbles break syphon   4/2/07
Hey guys thanks for getting back so quickly with the questions!  I have an overflow box hooked up to my 45 gallon aquarium. It feeds to my 10 gallon refugium, and a mag-drive 5 pumps the water back to my aquarium.  To start off, yes,  I know I should have had my tank drilled.   My problem is that air bubles get sucked into the overflow box and gather at the top which eventually breaks the syphon (see picture attached).
<Didn't come through>
  I am required to keep sucking the air bubbles out using the air line tube attached to the top of the overflow box.  I have to do this every other day in order to keep it syphoning.
<Dangerous... or at least annoying>
The problem is that I work out of town on the weekends, and the syphon breaks every single time I leave.  I was wondering what I can do.  It would be cool if there was something that could let the gathered air bubbles out of the air line tube while not letting air get back in which would break the syphon.  I have tried inserting mesh into the overflow box's entrance (where the water comes into it form the tank).  When I do this I loose a lot of water flow speed and although the  bubbles stop, this is not the solution I am looking for.  I am also concerned with the lack of growth of the spaghetti Caulerpa  in my refugium.  I have 36 watt 50/50 compact fluorescent in my refugium which is on the opposite 12 hours as my main tank. I am ready to throw my refugium out my apartment window! Any help would be much appreciated.   Thanks you guys/girls are the best every time,  Brian-
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/bubtroubfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: over flow box: air bubbles break siphon  - 04/05/07
Sorry I don't know how to resize the attachment.
<Still not getting the photo.  It is very strange.  The email is showing there is an attachment but there is no way to open the attachment.>
To answer your questions so you can answer mine.  
<A question for a question if you will...>
I am using a continuous overflow box.  
<I have used this also and I too experienced this problem>
The bubbles are created when the water first enters the overflow box from the aquarium only when the water level of the water reservoir of the overflow box is lower than the level 1 which I marked on my attachment.  While the water level of the reservoir box is kept higher than the level 1 mark, the bubbles are not created.  The problem is keeping the water level of the reservoir of the overflow box higher than the level 1 mark using my ball valve and without overflowing my aquarium.  I can usually get the water level of the reservoir to stay at the level 1 mark for about a day, and then it slowly decreases.  I'm not sure why it doesn't seem that many people have the same problem as me because when I l search for  "bubbles and overflow box" the problems others have are different.  Maybe I am doing something wrong. Well obviously not right!
<I think so. I'm not totally clear on how you have things set up, but I think I understand enough to offer some suggestions.  A couple of options.  You can get an "Air Lifter" pump and attach it via airline tubing to the knob.  This will continuously remove any air which gets stuck in the top of the overflow.  The pump sits on the top of the overflow and does not get submerged.  Or you can use a power head which has a venturi feature. Again connect it to the knob via airline tubing but the powerhead will need to be submerged in you tank.  Either of these will continuously remove any air build up and you should allow you to complete open you ball valve.  Does this make sense?  I have used the air lifter and have found them to last about a year.  I always kept a back up on hand.  When you start having a problem with circulation that you can't figure out, check the air lifter.  It might need to be replaced.  It may acts as if it is working, but I have found over time it looses suctioning ability.>
Thanks again for all the help,     
<Welcome! Hope this helps!  -Mich>

Re: over flow box: air bubbles break siphon  - 04/05/07
<Hello again Brian, Mich here.>
Awesome! You have cured my headache thank you.  
<You are most welcome!>
I did have a venturi powerhead so I tried to mess with it and couldn't figure out how to incorporate it with the overflow box, so I did a search online.  I came across a forum that said instead of using a venturi powerhead or an "air lifter" you can just attach airline tube to the top of the overflow box and start directly siphoning this to your sump/my refugium.  I did this and it works.  The air bubbles are forced to siphon down to my refugium.  I think this is great, but I'm wondering if this is safe (over fill proof).  As long as my tank is safe from loss of power, reverse siphoning from return pump line, and loss of siphoning from overflow box  It should be safe right?   Is there any concerns that you might have about this vs. the "air lifter" or venturi powerhead.  
<My biggest concern was the airline coming out of the sump and siphoning several gallons of water onto the floor.  Also complicating the matter for me, was airline tubing looks way too much like a kitty toy.  In my house this was way too tempting.  You may be OK if there are no four-legged critters or little two-legged ones!>   
Thanks again,   
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Brian

AGA Megaflow Overflow Boxes   2/20/07
Dear Crew,
<Hey Phil, JustinN with you today.>
I've looked everywhere and even called AGA and got stonewalled. I need to make some modifications to my overflow boxes and need to know what specific
plastic they are made of. AGA tells me it's proprietary information. They look and feel like ABS though. Does anybody know for sure?
Thanks for all your help!
Phil Mitchell
<While I don't work for AGA, nor have prior knowledge other than what I've seen in a consumer realm (as in, I've never been to their factory floor), I can say with about 95% certainty this is simply black ABS plastic, as you state. I'm a little surprised AGA is calling it a trade secret, actually. Perhaps this is simply to discourage modification of the original product and voiding of warranty? Hope this helps you! -JustinN>

Overflow Crack ?  12/20/06
Greetings WWM. Am very excited to be mailing the gods of aquaria.
<"Always thought I'd be an apostle/disciple"... in my best Superstar voice...>
Lots of info here - please let me know your feelings ...
<It's very pleasant, warm down here visiting in FLA... and I'd really like a cool beer... oh, that's not what you were hoping for>
thanks. Got a reef ready for fresh water Glasscages 55x23x28 inside-water = 150 net gal with a modified, (w/lotsa work), 45 gal "pre-made" Glasscages acrylic sump to a wet-dry. Did my homework, it's been three months of work, used sched 80, silicone and glue in all the right places. It is on the main floor, 3/4 in. Brazilian mahogany, over a weight bearing wall, finished basement below - usa homeowners insurance no coverage (unless vandals/fire/nature).? Any recommend?
<Mmm, call your agent here re coverage itself>
Used double felt on floor under oversized 5/8 in. plywood foot under modified, (w/lotsa work), wood cabinet carefully leveled/flat with linoleum, (felt allows easy sliding everything without water-nice).
<Good tip>
Used 3/4 in. pink foam (as per Glasscages 90 day warr) and linoleum between stand and tank, to make flat/level. The tank, (very euro braced), is very flat/level all four sides, with or without water, as measured on the top plastic trim and/or glass. Top of water to inside bottom of euro glass is 1 1/8 in. all four corners. Have two center-end, three-side 7x10x29 in. overflows with two 1 1/2 + 1 in. bulkheads ea.
<Mmm, wish these were larger inside diameter... even if fewer in number>
Tank glass is 1/2 in, overflows and euro brace surrounding the bottoms of overflows, etc is 3/8 in. Used 1 1/2 in deep half in. Mex Beach grey-black pea gravel - beautiful.? Is it ok?
<For?>
Have had water in it for two months. Ultimately did the fish free cycle thing with 2-5 ppm ammonia (Ace Janitor Ammonia - comes @ 10% strength) 1 tbs at a time until nitrate spike.
<Mmm, such exogenous ammonia can be made to be of use...>
Took three weeks and worked great. Three ppm ammonia vanishes in two days now. Am planning to get all the fish together from the distributor in one visit, via the best LFS, (fish will never be in the LFS tanks, they recommended this - sounded good), and put them all in at one time, (after major water change).? Think this will work?
<Mmm, possibly... hopefully no, little nitrogenous, other cycling issues... You're doing this to lessen the chances of agonistic behavior? To save time, money on freight? What re quarantine procedures?>
... so ... After six weeks of water, the side of an overflow cracked from the bottom outside corner, where the tank bottom meets the side, up 10 inches at a 45 degree angle, towards the center of the tank, across the whole width of the side of the overflow. The overflow trickle leaks into the overflow only, at the crack, when empty. There is no outside leak. This means if there is a power failure, the 29 in high homemade 1 1/2 in. Durso standpipe will drain the tank down about five inches from top, (to the bottom of the inverted trap/street L), overflowing the wet dry sump by maybe 20 gals. The Glasscages recommends drain, cut out the caulking ... silicone a glass patch to the inside or outside of the cracked pane, and re-caulk.
<Yes... this is what I would do as well>
They say this normally happens because of homeowner leveling/flattening problems. Wish I could find an angle off on this stuff so I could correct it and have more confidence.?
<Mmm, floors under load are often different then when tanks are empty... a good idea to fashion something... at least a piece of plywood under all to even all out a bit... better to make a more standard support (two plus by...) and set the tank/stand on this... But, it may well be that an investment in a structural engineer is in your future here.... See your "Yellow Pages"...>
Am hopeful it was just a glitch, like a pre-existing crack/chip, or glass measurements/tolerances off, or forgot/didn't put enough silicone under that piece - oops. Is this a coin flipper, or what do you guys think?
<Glass Cages make good products in my estimation... Impossible to tell re all the work from here>
Will wait for your wisdom before I do anything ... and ... I have a fish dream.
<"Brothers and sisters">
Am starting them together as juvenile's. 5 veil angels, 8 boesemanni rainbows, 8 Congo's, 5 clown loaches, 3 Bala's(-or-3 tinfoil barbs), 1 gold Severum, 1 stripe headstander, 1 red hook silver dollar, and 3 Siamese algae eaters.? Is this a good load for my 175 net gals? How would you modify?
<Mmm... well... I'd settle on either a more calm (centering on the Angels) or brisk (Tinfoils and Red hook) mix/theme here...>
... aanndd ... Am planning a battery back-up to run an air stone. Could you recommend a comparable/ better air pump than the super Luft 38 - 22w (also, to put in the cabinet to keep the moisture down, and run a stone with a one way check valve)?
<There is no better choice IMO>
... Is there a comp/better heater than a won bro titanium pro? ... Is there a recommended battery air pump? ... Mucho Thanks for your help, Andy
<I do like this heater... Bob Fenner>

Air Bubbles in MegaFlow Return - 12/08/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
You have a great website!
<<Thank you>>
Q:  I bought a 95-Wave Aquarium from All-Glass Aquarium.  The system came with the All-Glass Aquariums MegaFlow Overflow Accessory Kit.  After I start the system everything is working fine but I noticed that the system was pumping small air bubbles into the tank.  After a while I realize that the "3/4" elbow" has a little hole that is placed on purpose.
<<To stop back-siphoning when the pump/power is off, yes>>
This small hole is an anti-siphon feature in the event of a power outage.
<<Ah...I should read ahead *grin*>>
When I close (using my finger) the little hole the bubbles will stop.
<<Try positioning the outlet pipe such that the "hole" is "just below" the surface of the water.  This should stop it from entraining air with the water stream>>
I have seen these systems working in other aquariums and it seems to work fine, (no air bubbles).
<<Likely the outflow pipe was positioned as I described>>
Can you help me realize what is wrong with the ¾ elbow?
<<Give my suggestion a try.  If it is not possible to position the "hole" below the water line, then block the hole and position the pipe outlet shallow enough that the sump can handle the transient water in the event of a power outage>>
Best regards,
Luis Miguel Ferrero
<<Cheers mate, Eric Russell>>