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FAQs on Anemone Environmental Disease 1

FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone Disease 1, Anemone Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3, Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis Disease, Sebae Disease, LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip AnemonesLTAs, Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Selection, Anemone Placement, Anemone FeedingAnemone SystemsAnemone Lighting

Per species, anemones need "reef system conditions" of adequate lighting <actinic, blue don't count... 100 plus PAR/PUR>, circulation (screened intakes and overflows!)
Near seawater strength water (spg of 1.025-6)
SOME measurable NO3 and HPO4 (NOT zero).

Does the species you have/want live on rock; in/on sand, muck?

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

question regarding bubble tip anemone         7/28/16
I am writing in order to see if I could get some guidance/help regarding mi bubble tip anemone.
I currently have a Boyu TL550, 130 lt, saltwater aquarium.
I placed my E. quadricolor 3.5 months ago, and for the first 2 months she did great (I am attaching a picture from when she looked healthy).
Since 3-4 weeks ago, the anemone has progressively lost her ''bubbliness'', and the tentacles have ''shriveled'' and look flaccid and ''thin''. The colour has also changed; from a bright orange, to a darker orange-brown and some sectors even look greenish. 1-2 weeks ago the anemone decided to close (similar as when lights are off), and has decided to stay like this for days. Today, she opened, but after 2 days of being closed. I have two
Ocellaris clownfish, the female resided in the anemone, the male resided in an Euphyllia.
<Aye ya... here's some trouble>

Now they have both moved to the Euphyllia, however the female goes back to the anemone any time she exposes her tentacles.
I have never fed the anemone, except for 2 weeks ago (she was already looking shady) with a mix of brine shrimp and saltwater and squirted it; there was no change.
<Needs to be fed two, three times a week>

I have checked my parameters, temp is 24-25 C, pH 7.9-8.1, density 1.021-1.023
<S/b 1.025-6>

(they are pretty steady). I recently got more parameters, and the only parameter that was not right was nitrate (20 ppm). Nitrite, ammonia, phosphate, calcium, dKH were ok.
<? Meaningless w/o actual data, numbers>
The rest of the aquarium looks fine (other residents are Rhodactis, Kenya tree, Parazoanthus gracilis, 2 Ocellaris, Sixline wrasse yellow watchman  goby, Salarias fasciatus, 3 hermit crabs, 3 snails, 1 Lysmata amboinensis).
If you could guide me in this issue I would be most appreciative.
<Well; as stated above; the Euphyllia is winning here, the Entacmaea losing (allopathically); this animal is starved, and the environment? Did you review BTA Health on WWM? All this is gone over and over... As are suggestions for improving the situation... moving the Caryophylliid or Actinarian (they need to be in sep. systems); foods/feeding... and
improving the animal's world. Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much!

Help with Anemone and Algae. Moved sm. sys., cascade event      7/1/16
<Eight megs... is there a full moon? Why are folks sending such huge files?>
Hi there. I need help...About 1.5 months ago I moved to from San Francisco to Monterey for a job, and moved my 24 gallon reef tank for the second time in 2 years. My tank has been established since Oct. 2013, and has been thriving up until this move.
During move I followed the same protocols I used when moving two years ago (which was successful), which were the following: Placed biggest piece of live rock in bucket with airstone and heater along with all non-coral animals. Placed all other live rock and corals in a Styrofoam cooler in water. Emptied tank nearly all of the way, leaving 1/4" of water above the live-sand. I was able to plug heater and airstone into electricity with adapter in my truck. Drive 2 hrs, set up tank, all seemed fine until 2 weeks later...
Fast forward two weeks and I started to get brown slimy/hairy algae on sand, rocks, back walls etc.
<I see this... likely a release of nutrient/s... loss of RedOx/ORP... alkaline reserve in your substrate
I would siphon out as much as I could during water changes, revealing nice white sand under the brown scum, but it
comes back after a few days. At the time of my move I also switched to Reef Crystals from Instant Ocean for salt mix, and also purchased an under-sink RO system. Where it got weird is when my normally super-happy bubble tip anemone spawned, probably 1 month into the move. A big blob of eggs were released from her (I guess it is a she) mouth. I netted as many of them as I could. Ever since that spawn-night, the anemone has been small, deflated and wandering. It slides from one spot to another night after night, and never inflates to its previous 8-10" size. I realize that I might have
stirred up gunk in my 2-3 year old live sand during move,
but wouldn't I see a noticeable uptick in nitrates? The tap water here smells very chlorine-y also, but shouldn't my RO system be filtering bad stuff out?
<It should... and you likely have a carbon contactor pre-filter. You could test for free chlorine...>
My underlying question is; what could be simultaneously causing this algae outbreak and also stressing the anemone?
<The gunk stirred up in your old substrate; subsequent allelopathy with your other Cnidarians...>
Are there additional tests I can run to find out?
<Sure; HPO4, NO3, K....>

Here are some details about my tank: As mentioned 24 gallons, all-in-one setup with Tunze 9002 protein skimmer, heater, power head, and bag of MarineLand activated carbon dropped in back chamber every couple months.
Livestock: percula clown, royal gramma, Longnose Hawkfish, Banggai cardinal. A couple hermits, a couple turban snails, 1 fighting conch, 1 tuxedo urchin, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp. Soft corals (Christmas tree, various mushrooms, Zoas, leather), a few LPS (plate coral, hammer, torch, war coral).
Levels: Nitrates, ammonia, nitrites all "0"
<Really? NO NO3? I'd check with another kit
, pH 8.1, temp 78. I can measure for calcium and dKH but generally don't. I used to dose iron but don't anymore.
<I would, and iodide-ate... I might skip ahead and dump the entire existing substrate and replace first>
I have attached pictures of the algae (I think it is either dinoflagellates or cyanobacteria),
<Likely... need a 'scope look and see>
and am desperate for a concrete way to put a stop to it.
I have also attached a picture of the anemone spawn, and anem pics before and after move. Let me know if you need additional info to assess the problem.
Thanks in advance for your attention on this.
<Try searching, reading on WWM re these algae groups control. Bob Fenner>


Re: Help with Anemone and Algae      7/1/16
Apologies. I thought the pics were small enough, thanks for responding anyway. I will replace my sandbed...are you able to make a recommendation on live sand?
the linked files at top>

And yes, I have tested "0" Nitrate for the past year and a half...I just figured my bioload was low enough or that I had a super effective bio filter. I will get a new kit.
Thanks again.

Sad Anemone :(     8/29/12
Hey Crew,
I have a concern about my anemone.
<You should... dyed and dying>
 I attached a picture to give you a better idea. I got my water levels checked
<... need to have your own test kits... See WWM re rationale>
and everything was fine in that department. I read on your site about feeding the anemone and I decided to buy some frozen krill.
<... okay>
This is the only change that's happened this past week. I feed him every other day, stopped two days ago though because it was looking a bit sick (closed up, shrivel looking tentacles) I'm not sure was the problem is, for the 5-6 months I've had him, he's been great. Have you come across this problem with my type of anemone?
<All types of large Pacific Actinarians used in our interest, yes>
Im continuing to look through out you site if I find an answer, but I thought I would ask up front too.
<I'd keep reading... and soon. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for the help,

Dyed and dying
Re: Sad Anemone :(     8/29/12
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the advice. The only reason why I haven't started testing the water myself is because the fish store I go to is literally 5 minutes away.
 By next month I will probably test myself, just need to wait for the next pay day! so I just came back from the fish store, showed them the picture, they said they do that every now and then and not to worry. my water levels were: salinity: 1.023,
<Too low...>
 Ph:8.1, Calcium: 360 (a bit low they said), and nitrate nitrite and ammonia are all 0  :)
<... stop writing please... and read on WWM. The anemone, all photosynthates need measurable NO3, HPO4...>
  so Im doing a small water change today, will keep reading WWM, (maybe if I give it smaller pieces of krill???) and if anything changes I will seek out WWM for some helpful advice!
Its a really beautiful anemone, I would hate to loose <lose> it!
<Keep reading. B>

re: Sad Anemone :(     8/30/12
<No need... DO read ASAP... this animal needs your intelligent help. B>

Anemones/Health ... the horses have left the gate...   8/16/06 I bought an Anenome when I bought my clown fish and the two got on famously and were inseparable for months.  Then the clown fish very suddenly abandoned the Anenome.  I had made no changes to the tank environment in this time and followed my usual maintenance.  The last water test I did looked real good, no areas for concern.  I fed the Anenome by hand for a while and he did move a couple of times so I knew he was alive.  Now I'm not so sure he is alive...  I have attached the best pic I could get with my rather average camera.  He appears 'swollen' on the inside and last time I gave him food, it fell right out rather than him accepting it and closing up.  Can you give me some advice here?  I can't work out if he is still alive or not! <Looks to me like he is on his way out.  I'd remove.> I have a 100 litre tank, kept around 74 F with a 15W bulb that is on about 8 hours a day. <Nowhere near enough light to keep an anemone alive.  Read here and above links.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm> I have only 5 fish: a fairy wrasse, 2 clowns (ocellaris and maroon) and a pair of purple queen Anthias. <Too small a tank for all these fish.> The rest of the tank has rocks and fake plants. I admit I do tend to but whatever fish are in stock and I'm not stocking my tank with any logic.  Any suggestions for a good number/mix of fish in this size tank?  My fish interests stem only from last year being left a cow fish by a friend who moved overseas and having to learn what I was doing quite quickly! <Four smaller fish would be the max for this tank.  Best to search/read on a particular fish before purchasing.  Know it's requirements, compatibility issues, etc.  Same to be said of invertebrates, such as your anemone.> Thanks <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Helen Bigland

New H. crispa - some questions... Mis-ID'ed, kept actinarian, mis-mixed, crowded small marine system  - 05/19/2006 Hi Crew from beautiful North Carolina! <Howdy back from some of us out in HI> I have a 30 gal. cube which is several months old and is to be primarily dedicated to anemone/clownfish. <Dangerously small... unstable>   The lone exception fishwise, is a lawnmower blenny. <Borderline small for a Salarias, Atrosalarias as well...> I also have a sandsifting star, a tiger tail cuke, <Way too small for this species....> a serpent star, and various snails.  The clowns are a mated pair of Pink Skunks.  They are totally in love with the anemone and wallow around in it constantly. I have 150W 14K HQI with 2X24w T5 actinics.  I realize this may be a little too blue for a Sebae and I plan on replacing the HQI bulb with a 10K in the near future.  I have a 10 gal. sump which is putting way too many microbubbles in the tank (have to build a better bubble trap), a Tunze Nano skimmer, and an Eheim 1260 as a return pump.  Based on RC's head loss calculator I am moving about 450 gph - just about 15X. <Watch that intake, those intakes!> pH is 8.3, temp is 79-81, ammonia=0, nitrite = 0.1,  nitrate = (yikes, how did that happen?), <What?> calcium =500, alk = 6 meq/L. Now for my question - my anemone hasn't attached to anything yet. <Bad...>   Its body is tannish with an orangey bottom on its foot. <...? This is a crispa/Sebae?> The tentacles are light green (no purple tips that I can see). <It's not... see WWM re the more commonly employed...> I haven't seen the mouth since I first put it in the tank and at that time it was tightly closed.  It was not attached in the shipping bag <Don't> and has been nicely expanded but unattached since going into the tank.  Its laying on its side and is expanded out over the sand.  It hasn't moved very much from where I originally put it.  It is sticky - in fact, my fingers are a little itchy from touching the tentacles to make sure it is still sticky. <Make sure and wash your hands thoroughly before and after...> Should I just wait patiently or should I try to make some changes other than a WC to fix the nitrite issue?  He really is a beauty and I want to make sure he gets the best possible care. Thanks - Laurie <Much to speculate re here. Please read re all these animals care... Systems, Compatibility... especially the Anemone... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll down... Bob Fenner...>

Unable to keep anemones alive 8/3/05 Hello, I have been very unsuccessful in keeping any kind of anemones alive to date. <This is the case for most aquarists.  Anemones are often injured and/or stressed in collection/shipping and are doomed.  Those that do survive often succumb to inadequate water quality, inadequate light, inadequate food and very often, for no apparent reason at all.> My latest was a Bubble Tipped which didn't last for three weeks before it started to rot from the inside. Clown fishes were fighting each other over the anemone and were feeding it but to no avail. <This sounds like the anemone was injured, which is almost always fatal, especially if the anemone is not well established in captivity (months of good health).  Acquiring a healthy specimen is difficult but imperative, and it isn't always possible to tell by visual inspection.> To make things worse I bought another smaller Bubble Tipped anemone for my nephew and his is still alive and didn't require any special/MH lighting. It's just your regular fluorescent tube!! <Hmmm...  Enough fluorescent tubes could produce enough light to maintain a BTA, but one or two certainly can't.  An otherwise healthy anemone my survive weeks or months under these conditions (especially if well fed), but eventually it will perish.> What kind of conditions are required for anemone? I have Cleaner shrimps, Bullseye Pistol Shrimp, Blue Hermit crabs, snails, mushrooms, Star and Yellow/Sun polyps, Scarlet Hermit crab, three different species of damsels, Yellow tang, Dottyback and three different species of clownfish.  <Generally, anemones require at least strong VHO lighting with MH being better.  Water chemistry should be optimized (S.G. 1.025-1.026, pH 8.1-8.5, Alkalinity 3-4 mEq/l, Calcium 380-450) and general water quality maintained with good skimming and frequent partial water changes (10%/month minimum) and at least about 10x the tank volume in water movement.> I have tried feeding Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp etc. Monthly water changes, controlled water chemistry, proper lighting. Please advise. Thank you. Paul <Without knowing more about your system, it is hard to guess what the problem might be.  Even if you acquire a healthy specimen, it takes optimal reef tank conditions to maintain anemones and even under such conditions, many still die.  Unfortunately, we can only test for a small fraction of all of the things that contribute to water quality, and of those that are possible, most of us only measure a few.  Because of this, we may never know what the "secret" is to maintaining anemones.  If you do choose to try again, I strongly urge you to seek out captive raised Bubble tip anemones.  They are already well acclimated to captive conditions and while their death is still tragic, at least it didn't come from the reef.  It would also be advisable to compare your system, water chemistry and maintenance practices to other aquarists who have been successful at keeping anemones to try and reveal any crucial differences.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Anemone Troubles 7/28/05 Hi guys <Hey, Mike G with you this evening.> I have taken command of my little brothers Jewel Rio 180 marine set up whilst he travels for a year and although he gave me step by step instructions I need your help please <And I'm glad to give it.> I have a white carpet anemone <"White" and "Anemone" really don't belong in the same sentence. Bleaching comes immediately to mind.> which he has had from day one (3 ? years) I have been looking after this tank for nearly three weeks now and she is gorgeous and I hand feed her mussels which she enjoys. <If it is, indeed, bleached, the mussels may very well be the only thing allowing her to continue living.> Yesterday I carried out my first water change of approximately 20% after finding that my readings were as follows PH - 7.8 <A bit low. Aim for 8.2, 8.4> ammonia - 0.25ppm <A bit high. Aim for no more than 0> NO2 - 0.25ppm <See above. Should be 0> but the big one was NO3 - 160ppm which was off the scale. <Very high, though you've got that figured out.> I got told 20% 2 weekly is the norm is this correct (question 1)? <Depends on the aquarist. Everyone does things differently, though 20% every two weeks sounds good to me.> Although all fish and anemones appeared fine in the tank before the water change. <Alright.> So I got my self some pre salted RO water from my local shop <Same brand of salt as your brother used in his tank? Same salinity?> set it up to an air stone for 24 hours and heated it up to the tank temperature I then begin the change of 20% of the water which appeared to go well for my first time. <Good to hear.> After it was done I then took the readings again and to my shock nothing had really changed the PH was still low 7.8 and my NO3 was still way over 160ppm <If it was off the charts before, there's no telling how high it was. It could have been at 500, and you reduced it to 161, in which case you'd still get the same reading.> How can I get these down (question 2)? <Do what you've been doing. Water changes, lighter feedings...> Secondly I bought some proper ph 8.2 and added just 2 scoops directly to my 180 litre tank to try and get the ph level up to what all sites tell me it should be. <"Proper pH" and other such pH buffers are, in my experience, nothing but problematic. When they "wear off," your water will go back to 7.8, and the jump up then back down will stress your inhabitants unnecessarily. Using Kalkwasser or other such additives commonly administered to reef aquaria can prove invaluable in situations such as these.> After I had done this my carpet shriveled up into a tiny ball as if to say no I was fine as I was, albeit now 2 hours after my heart stopped beating thinking that I may have killed my cutest little new found friend she appears again to be opening up very slightly. <Anemones tend to do a water change within their column from time to time, and will deflate completely periodically or when under stress. Unless it stays like this for a prolonged period of time, I'd not worry myself if I were you.> Is this normal during a water change that she will get the hump with me (question 3)? <See above.> As if I loose her it's the hose pipe and car exhaust fumes for me as I love feeding her? <I don't quite understand what you're saying here, though if it is white, I'd say feeding would be a good thing.> My final question is I also bought another anemone <With brother's consent?> the other weekend which is a brown anemone with brown tentacles with green ends that appear to have holes in them <Hard to guess the species.> as I could not resist her for my 2 clowns and on the say so of my local aquatic shop. On getting her home we set her up and put her in the corner of the tank, the next morning my dad screamed she is next to the carpet <When newly introduced, uncomfortable, or stressed, anemones will roam around the tank looking for a more suitable location.> so I dived in and moved her and since then she will not really take to anywhere and looks like she does not want to take refuge on the glass, sand or rock and will not really show her mouth for feeding and looks like her feet are damaged. <They are quite strong. Perhaps you tore the foot when you moved it?> So do you think she is in big trouble <A tear in the foot is usually a problem.> and how can I encourage her to settle (question 4)? <Provide it with a place it likes, and it'll take to it.> I thank you for your time and look forward to your answers at this difficult time <Not a problem. Good luck with your new anemone!> Gary from London <Mike G>

Anemone problems Dear Crew, <hello> I have a 65 gallon fish only tank with about 20 pounds of live rock, a double BioWheel filter  and a detestable Seaclone skimmer.  Its inhabitants are 2 false percula clowns and a wrasse with pink and blue pinstripes who's name escapes me at the moment. My local fish store employee told me I should have an anemone for the clown fish, <they do not need an anemone to survive or thrive.> and sold me a pink tip variety.  It died within 24 hours.  I returned to the store and a more senior employee apologized, explained that no fish inhabit this type, but suggested I try again because it's a good anemone to start with if I'm interested in invertebrates. <this is all true>   Of course I'm interested, I love my tank...but the goal is to do it right and keep everything alive.  Anemone #2 looked fine for 24 hours, and now, after 48 is shriveling and looking generally unwell.  On your website I found some info on keeping bright lights for them, and mine are only fluorescent. < you will need VHO or power compacts>   The water temp is approx 80degrees F.  Ammonia-0, Nitrite and Nitrate- 0, and PH 8.2.  What can I possibly do to keep the little critter alive? < I can make some suggestions on things you need for anemone care, you can also search this site and will give you much more info. anemones need light, water movement, food, and clean water. For the light you are going to want around 4-6 watts per gallon. water movement you will want to turn the tank over around 5 times per hour. you also need clean water and if your skimmer is not working right I would get a new one there are a couple of good hang-ons out now. CPR BAKPAK or Aqua c 's Remora. Good luck Mike H> Please Help, Angela C.

Not Clowning Around! Dear WWM crew, <Scott F. with you this evening> I got 2 false perculas and a long tentacle anemone from LFS five days ago. One died. He never stopped stressing in my tank and wouldn't eat and died : (. <Sorry to hear that!> Nitrites were a bit high. These are my first fish after cycling with LR for 4? weeks. Nitrites were not high when I got the fish, as the LFS tested the water and confirmed, then sold them to me. <I wish that they wouldn't have sold you the anemone for a brand new tank. Not that you aren't doing a good job-it's just that anemones require excellent, stable conditions and lots of light. Things that are sometimes lacking in new systems. > The anemone is doing great. Eating, was settled for four days and last night went on a trek around the tank... now in the opposite corner. <This is common with anemones. They will often move into a location that suits their needs. The LTA likes a deep sand bed to bury its foot or column in, so keep this in mind.> The clownfish that is still alive seems to be swimming around just fine, but has left the anemone since the other clownfish died. (When I originally put both of them in the tank with the anemone, this clown dove into the anemone and would not leave it, seeming to chase the other clown away. Seems like female clown behavior I have read about, but since her intended "mate" perished, she hasn't been with the anemone at all. She is the only fish in the tank. <Could be a lot of reasons for this> Should I worry about her not eating? I feed brine shrimp (am) and frozen shrimp (pm) and the anemones and crabs seem to enjoy, but clown ignores. She seems to be swimming fine and has ventured throughout the 29 gal tank, but prefers to stay in the area where the anemone was. <I would always be concerned when a fish isn't eating. You may want to try something other than frozen brine shrimp. It actually has little in the way of nutritional value for marine fish (even though they usually love 'em). try frozen Mysis, or finely chopped clam, squid, or other ocean "meats".> Is there a special food I should try? Just wait? Am I worrying for nothing? <No- you are not worrying for nothing. You are doing the right thing by trying to analyze what could be wrong! It's never good when a fish does not eat for extended periods of time. There could be a lot of reasons for this. I'd recommend that you test the water for ammonia and nitrite regularly for a while. There should be no detectable levels of either of these in your tank. Are you performing regular water changes? Is the temperature stable? Does the fish show any obvious signs of disease or discomfort? Take a good hard look at your tank and make sure that everything is in order. In addition to being a lot of fun, observing the tank carefully will allow you to get a feel for what is "normal" for your system, and to take corrective actions, when necessary, in a timely manner. Learn all that you can, get a copy of Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist", which has tons of great information, and use the wetwebmedia.com resources. Make sure that everything is stable before adding any more animals, quarantine all new fish, and feel free to contact us any time. If you follow these simple rules, you'll be fine! Enjoy and Good Luck!> THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND ASSISTANCE! Diane Bedard <And thank YOU for stopping by!>

A Good Friend To His Anemone! Hi, You were correct in your comments about real sunlight. I thought the  anemone was responding positively to attention from the clownfish, but actually it is the sunlight that makes it happy. I know this because the clownfish are now in this anemone full time, but it is when the sun shines on the anemone that it expands and looks it's best. <Yep- light is extremely important in anemone husbandry! That Bob Fenner is one smart guy, huh?> On days when there is no sun, it does not look as good.  My question is this, I know that most home aquariums are not the ideal environment for a Heteractis anemone, so I am doing the best I can for my one including feeding supplements, I just want to check if I am doing the right thing. Every few feedings I soak its food in Reef Plus to give it some extra nutrients. Is this a good idea? <Not a bad idea to enrich foods for most captive animals> Also, are there any other supplements that could benefit it? <Just the "supplementation" that you will get by engaging in regular water changes...> Also, as it responds to sunlight, I am assuming that my normal lighting may not be enough. If this is the case, are there any supplements that could help make up for this? <Just good feeding and clean water conditions> Having asked  all this, I should just say that the anemone is currently looking good and has a good rich color, and has actually improved since I bought it, but I just want to do the best I can.  Cheers <Sounds like you already are! Keep up the good work! Regards, Scott F>

Need help w/ my sebae anemone Robert, I have a sebae anemone in my 12gallon eclipse tank, but I've been noticing that it detaches from my liverock at night, and begins to float around. why is this happening?  <Some "thing/s" are not to this Heteractis crispa's liking where it is... lighting, circulation, other animal/s nearby, in the system itself, poor water quality...> my sebae anemone almost died one night, because it got sucked into my filtration system?  <Happens> in the day time, the anemone finds a place to grab on too...and seems fine tentacles fully extended, open, etc..). what am I doing wrong? I do not want my anemone floating around at night!!! please help me!! <Please read through the Anemone sections on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) and those on the Breeder's Registry (link on WWM)...> here is my tank setup: 12gallon tank w/live rock, live sand 32watt CSL PowerCompact (dual actinic/daylight) (1) true percula clownfish 78F(temp varies +2,-2 ) ph 8.2 ammonia-0ppm nitrite-0ppm nitrate-5ppm <Not an easily kept species... a too-small system... Bob Fenner> thanks, Eric

Lighting AND current Bob, I've got a two-fer question for you -- I have a standard 37 gal. tank with a Fluval 204, CPR BakPak2 protein skimmer/filter, 2 Coralife MiniMight lights (each with 1 actinic blue and 1 actinic daylight bulb) and a 24 inch fluorescent normal output (18W) Reefsun 50/50 bulb. The tank itself has maybe 40 lbs of live rock, a feather duster, some snails & hermit crabs, an ocellaris clown, a springeri, a mandarin and some mushrooms. Everything seems fine (water quality, temp, salinity, etc...) however, I just lost an anemone in record time (about 2 weeks).  <Not really a record... actually, unfortunately, more or less the standard> It was a pretty nice looking sebae anemone that just refused to eat, wouldn't stick to anything, etc.... I successfully kept a bubble tip anemone once before for about 2 years (it eventually got inhaled in the filter, beginners mistake unfortunately) using the same setup of lighting but the tank was a 20 gal at the time. I think it may be the lighting and was thinking of upgrading from the current setup (2 minimights w/ 4 bulbs total = 36W and 1 24" fluorescent is another 18W) to maybe a JBJ compact fluorescent setup....any ideas on what type of setup or wattage (I know I shouldn't be looking at wattage but it's so much easier to relate back an forth)... <3,4, 5 watts per gallon... have you read over the Marine Lighting FAQs posted on the WetWebMedia.com site?> I would eventually like to take a stab at another anemone and eventually some corals but don't want to rush in and lose something else. Now the second part of my two-fer question, could it be the current?  <Doubtful> It seemed adequate in the 20 gal but seems like the water hardly moves in the 37 gal with the existing filters. Any recommendations there?  <A couple of powerheads... perhaps an added refugium with lighting... Bob Fenner> Thanks for any help. Chris

Another sebae anemone................. my mom recently purchased a sebae for my aquarium. currently I have one tomato clown, one true percula, one false percula, 2 blue damsels, and one domino damsel. I have about 10 hermits (red legged) 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, and 2 peppermint shrimp. I also have a few mushrooms, 1 bubble coral, and bout 30 lbs of various live rock that is turning some pieces of bland colored rock a real pretty garnet red with a few globs of pink stuff. <A vivid description!> the tank is a 37 gallon eclipse system. OH! by the way, I have a small harvest of Aiptasia too, lol. nothing major anymore, the peppermints took over that. I am running a protein skimmer, not sure how well it works, but the cup does fill up with nice green juices and some foam, so its doing something. everything seems to be doing good, except for the anemone. my lighting is one 20 watt actinic blue, and one 20 watt sun Glo. I'm working on building a rig for the second lid of may tank for 2 more 50/50 20 watt bulbs, but until then.... I cant add any metal halides because they'll probably melt the plastic.  <Yes, I understand... do finish the new hood retrofit> anyways, when she came home with the anemone, I set him in the tank. he has barely moved an inch. at night when the lights are off, he closes up a little, and rolls over on his side, not flipped, just on his side, and when the lights come on he rolls back on his bottom, and opens up. his mouth and bottom seems to be intact. but I have been feeding him a LOT. fresh raw shrimp every about 3 times a week. I have only had him about 2 weeks now, so maybe he's acting like this because he's getting rid of his waste?? <Or, perhaps because of the newness total... you can imagine what it must be like... to be in the ocean, removed, transported in all sorts of odd conditions... smooth sided containers... in the dark for days... And this animal does need intense light...> the thing that seems bad from other Sebaes I have seen online is that his tentacles or kinda short and stubby, and bright white with bright green tips. he is about as big around as a softball. his tentacles may be very very slightly transparent, but not much at all.  <This IS still likely a "sebae" (actually a Heteractis crispa)... see the images, explanations on this, other anemones on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com  and the numerous FAQs posted there about them> one morning my false percula stumbled his way into it and played around for about 20 minutes, then I had to go to work, and he hasn't been in since. he does react big time if he is touched. he then closes up, looks kinda like a star. I am having trouble feeding him now though. my peppermint shrimp like to run all over him, and ill put a piece of raw shrimp on his tentacles, he proceeds to fold it inwards, and here come the thieves. how ironic huh? <Asi es la vida. Such is life> the shrimp steal the shrimp and eat it. I have to combat them the whole time he eats. the try to eat my fingers. anyways, is there any hope???? <Always my friend> if this isn't too confusing for you, id greatly appreciate some help. thanx a bunch, Daniel Ralls p.s. by the way, I am having quite a few of the slug looking things, that have a very small bit of shell on them. looks kinda like they are growing a shell over time. sound familiar??? and what would lay eggs on my glass?? looks like air bubble sort of, and has small white eggs inside, and mainly concentrated by the heater. <Likely as you say... some mollusks... of no negative consequence. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Please help Bob, First I would like to say thank you for worldly renowned knowledge on saltwater fish.  <Don't know about world-renowned... and it is fishes! As they say in those multimillion dollar making snore-job movies for teens, "Whassup"?> Your FAQs has saved me a lot of money and grief, <Outstanding! Great to hear/read> and I was hoping if you could help me once again. Here's the problem: I have a long tentacle anemone in my eclipse 12 gallon tank with 32 watt (half daylight, half actinic) with 2 false perculas (which is another story), a damsel, a cleaner shrimp, and a small hermit crab. The first problem is with the anemone. I turn on the light in the morning (around 10am) and leave it on until around 9pm. It seems that every time I turn it on, the anemone tentacles (and itself) start to shrink, and it turns a fluorescent green color. It does this on a frequent basis, so I am not sure whether it is sick or not. My nitrite and ammonia levels are a little bit high, but that is because I just performed a big water change.  <What? No... the root cause is somethings else... this tank is likely under-filtered, under-circulated... would like to see, modify... put on a canister filter, small skimmer (like a Prizm, Skilter...)actually a hang-on refugium like the new spiffy ones being offered by CPR on this system... you need these... your tank has too much life in it for the type of stock Eclipse light, filtration, circulation...> But it has also happened to a bubble tip that I had in there before.  <Ah... your world has not changed... have you?> Please give me any suggestions to keep my anemone healthier. <Look inward my friend> My second question is regarding my false perculas. They won't host with any anemone!  <offered> I first tried the bubble tip, but they would even touch it, and now I have the long tentacle in, the closest I got was that one of them barely brushed one of the tentacles with it's tail. Is it the fish or the anemone, or both? <... a few possibilities... these tank raised Australians are a bit shy to develop anemone relations... the long-tentacle... is this a Heteractis crispa? Though this species (Amphiprion percula) will associate with other actinarians in captivity... Take a look through the anemone sections on the www.WetWebMedia.com site puhleeze> I have been trying for a long while to get my perculas to host with something, and the fish store person said that they would definitely host with the long tentacle. Any suggestions/methods to get them to host with the anemone?  <Take the animal back to this fish store> Once again, thank you so much for your wisdom and guidance. Dave <A pleasant time. Bob Fenner>

Long Tentacle Anemone Hi Robert and the crew, <Cheers!> I was the one with LTA and no clue. Well, thanks to you, we are still surviving. (Sept-Oct 2001). But.... I have another question about coloration. My LTA was originally brown with orange base. The brown color slowly became transparent and the foot lightened in color. After I added more light, within a few weeks the brown color returned (iridescent green tips), but the base is still very light in color. My idea of VHO lighting did not work out, so for now we have 55g: 3 X 40W, 10K, 50/50 and Actinic. I have to say that LTA looks quite well, actually I think it looks nicer than when I purchased her, but that may be due to illumination. I did read about coloration changes, but did not find anything about the base. In case you are wondering, I pull her out every day and compare the base color to NA test cards... I'm very bright, you now.  <heehee...> Actually, she was moving a few days ago and I caught her in the act. If you have any thoughts on this issue, please let me know. (do I really have very little light?  <yep! You guessed it... that is the big problem IMO. Standard output fluorescents are very pale at even shallow depth (PAR not just appearance of daylight). If your anemone is below 10" of surface, we should be grateful to have gotten where we have. Still... the bright orange color may not be related to the zooxanthellae (most likely it isn't) and may not ever come back but be replaced by different pigmentation. Keep feeding it well and varied and increase the light brighter but slowly when you can> My life rock free-riding green (brown with iridescent green border) button polyps are multiplying... <very cool!> Thank you, Oksana <with kind regards, Anthony>

Anemone Is it normal for an Anemone to contract when the tank lights are off?  I fed it a couple of days ago and since then I haven't seen it open as much especially when the lights are off? Is this normal for a couple of days after feeding? <Yes in both cases... many species are photosynthetic to a varying (some receive something like 90% of their nutrition this way) extent... and it "pays" to "close down" (there are predators of anemones) when fed sufficiently, or there's not much to feed on...> I have VHO lighting and it stays on 10.5 hours a day. I've checked the water parameters and they are perfect. The tank temperature is a steady 81 degrees (fluctuating MAYBE only 1/2 a degree a day). Is this temperature too high for an Anemone?  <What species? For tropical ones, see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  this should be fine> If so, how do I change the temperature slowly without creating a problem for everyone in the tank? <Depends on who "everyone" is... Read over your message here... you don't list the species involved> The only other change I've made is slowly increasing the salinity to 1.25. It is currently at 1.23 and I have been trying to raise it no more than a thousandth each day to make the change slow. Could the Anemone be reacting to low salinity? Although it seemed fine before I fed it. <Yes, certainly> Hopefully this is somewhat normal behavior for an Anemone -- before feeding him he was fully extended and looking great. He has stayed in one spot in the tank -- I guess that's a good sign that he's not moving around a lot? <One sign, yes> Thanks for any suggestions/help you can provide. <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner> Elizabeth K. Birdwell

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