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FAQs on Anemone Social Disease 1

FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone Disease 1, Anemone Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3, Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis Disease, Sebae Disease, LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip AnemonesLTAs, Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Selection, Anemone Placement, Anemone FeedingAnemone SystemsAnemone Lighting

Allelopathy (incompatibility with other Cnidarians mostly) is likely the second most common source of captive Anemone mortality

Hosting Clownfishes can be a source of real trouble... Beating up their would-be host anemone; killing it. Best to quarantine all incoming... Introduce slowly, by covering the anemone with some sort of rigid, transparent cover (like an inverted strawberry basket)

Angels, triggers, large puffers and more eat anemones. Sharks, rays, eels... cruise into them.

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Rock flower nems     3/18/17
Hey guys how has it been.
<Fine Tom; thanks>
Have a quick one about some rock flower nems that we have been getting and shipping in. We are having a large number melting the second or third day in. Cal 440, Mag 1350, alk 8 no3 5. They seem to be expelling a large
amount of why looks like green brown stringy material almost like a small hay.
<Mmm; trouble>

They are still solid feeling when introduced to the system.
<Alive up till then likely>
Could they have an issue with the substrate ?
<Doubtful... something/s else. Are they shipped one to the bag? Are their pedicles intact; i.e., not torn?>
We acclimate them with :30 float and :30 drip.
<I'd be dosing (over; like three plus times) with iodide-ate and lowering the spg of the acclim. water a thousandth or two>

Have kicked around putting them in a bare bottom and doing water changes ever hour till they quit expelling that material.
What chemicals can be used to help with these issues
<As above... plus poss. a simple/hexose sugar... as detailed by Hans Hass decades back and myself in recent ones>
Thanks again
Tom smith
Aquascape Chicago
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rock flower nems     3/18/17

<Can't read this>
Re: Rock flower nems     3/18/17

Sorry about that
The nems all looked in tack in the bags and were shipped 5 per med sized bag.
<Mmm; I'd only ship one per... ALWAYS>

Just found the writing on the simple sugar treatment
What type is sugar works
Corn syrup
Simple cheap white ?
<Glucose is best... look for this at the supermarket for folks that do canning. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
This is that material I was trying to explain
<Bizarre Tom... looks like some sort of polypoid life, but what? Do you have other images; showing tentacles, mouths? Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
Semi gaping
<These Phymanthus crucifer are looking MUCH better. I would keep running chemical filtrants (PolyFilter and ChemiPure) at double, and checking ORP as THE indicator of water quality. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
sorry but have no ChemiPure but have gfo
<Remove the Ferrous. Chemoautotrophs NEED HPO4>

and carbon. also have a good size skimmer running currently and have been doing a 25% water change daily just to keep it clean and the " stuff" cleared off any that are still ejecting it. should i still keep up with the simple sugar and iodide treatment?
<Yes. B>

question regarding bubble tip anemone         7/28/16
I am writing in order to see if I could get some guidance/help regarding mi bubble tip anemone.
I currently have a Boyu TL550, 130 lt, saltwater aquarium.
I placed my E. quadricolor 3.5 months ago, and for the first 2 months she did great (I am attaching a picture from when she looked healthy).
Since 3-4 weeks ago, the anemone has progressively lost her ''bubbliness'', and the tentacles have ''shriveled'' and look flaccid and ''thin''. The colour has also changed; from a bright orange, to a darker orange-brown and some sectors even look greenish. 1-2 weeks ago the anemone decided to close (similar as when lights are off), and has decided to stay like this for days. Today, she opened, but after 2 days of being closed. I have two
Ocellaris clownfish, the female resided in the anemone, the male resided in an Euphyllia.
<Aye ya... here's some trouble>

Now they have both moved to the Euphyllia, however the female goes back to the anemone any time she exposes her tentacles.
I have never fed the anemone, except for 2 weeks ago (she was already looking shady) with a mix of brine shrimp and saltwater and squirted it; there was no change.
<Needs to be fed two, three times a week>

I have checked my parameters, temp is 24-25 C, pH 7.9-8.1, density 1.021-1.023
<S/b 1.025-6>

(they are pretty steady). I recently got more parameters, and the only parameter that was not right was nitrate (20 ppm). Nitrite, ammonia, phosphate, calcium, dKH were ok.
<? Meaningless w/o actual data, numbers>
The rest of the aquarium looks fine (other residents are Rhodactis, Kenya tree, Parazoanthus gracilis, 2 Ocellaris, Sixline wrasse yellow watchman  goby, Salarias fasciatus, 3 hermit crabs, 3 snails, 1 Lysmata amboinensis).
If you could guide me in this issue I would be most appreciative.
<Well; as stated above; the Euphyllia is winning here, the Entacmaea losing (allopathically); this animal is starved, and the environment? Did you review BTA Health on WWM? All this is gone over and over... As are suggestions for improving the situation... moving the Caryophylliid or Actinarian (they need to be in sep. systems); foods/feeding... and
improving the animal's world. Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much!

Bubble tip & clone.... anemone incomp.     2/22/16
220 Reef tank. Kessil 360 W lights .1025 sal.
<Move the decimal place over one>
Good parameters light bio load on fish. I had a Sebae anemone in the tank with 1 rose bubble tip. All things fine. Doing 30 gallon water changes every 3-4 weeks. The bubble tip spit about a month after I brought it home.
The clone located just a few inches away. About a month ago the Sebae started to look less than it should have so it was moved to a separate system.
Seems to be recovering. The bubble tips were doing fine till a few days ago when the clone appeared to be irritated by the tentacles of its sister
<Shouldn't be>
and after a couple of days moved away into a crevice and is shriveled up.
This should not have happened but it had the appearance of such . The other bubble tip is looking like business as usual.
I think my problems may have started when about 3-4 weeks ago I introduced 2 small mini carpet anemones.
<Aye ya... poor mixers. SEE, as in read on WWM re mixing Actinarians... NOT a good idea>

I have removed one that was easily taken but the remaining one about 2.5 inches across is too well attached so for now it will remain and I am going to run some carbon.
<Good; worthwhile>
There is a fairly sizeable Toadstool coral in the tank also but about 2.5 feet from the bubble tips however I'm running a Tunze Wave box so the circulation may be getting an issue with chemical war fare going which is what I suspect.
<Yes; likely>

Yeah I know corals and anemones do not mix but I thought the size of the system would help to dilute such issues.
<Does help; but need to acclimate/introduce the parties via isolation/quarantine... As I've written and given presentations re over and over>
I did have a devils hand leather coral in the system early on and had to move it but that was long before the bubble tips
Comments from the crew for anything I may have missed other than not doing my due diligence on compatibility.
Mike Murphy
<Not much more I can/will state than is archived, search-able on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Anemone quarantine -- 10/31/09
Dr. Fenner,
<Heeeee! Maybe for Halloween!? Just Bob, please Terry. I have no doctorate>
I have a question about quarantining an anemone. My quarantine tank is not setup (lighting wise) for an anemone, because I have a FOWLR setup. I've never needed strong lighting. I only wish to keep anemone's in the system long term, therefore the display tank has been setup for anemones. I have a 150 gallon high tank with 0 nitrite and ammonia, and .05 nitrate. I have 500 watts of MH (14K), 1 96 watt t5 (20K), and 1 96 watt (10K). The sand bed is 6-7 inches, the system has been established for one year. I have a 50 gallon refugium with Chaetomorpha, and live rock in it. There is approximately 130 lbs. Of live rock in the system. All the inhabitants are reef safe with the possible exception of a 5 in. Blue angel which hasn't been tested yet.
<Sometimes these will go after/eat anemones>

I also have 2 other tanks if something goes after the anemone, I can the fish. I am mainly concerned about quarantining the water the anemone is in than the anemone itself due to ich and other possible bacterium/viruses which may inhabit the water. Any suggestions?
Terry Baldwin
<Yes... to move some of the water back/forth from the QT and main/display systems on a daily basis... to allow all to "get used" to each other over time... A week or two should prove the health of the new animal, and the mixing of waters will ease transition. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone quarantine
Does the anemone not need light on a daily basis while in quarantine?
<Yes... if the process is going to go on for many days. BobF>

Anemone Fading Quickly, More Information Needed - 11/20/07 <Hello Amber, Brenda here> We are new to this fish tank thing and are getting by very well so far. We have had the tank for maybe 5 or 6 months. The salt and nitrates are at a good level. <I need actual numbers here.> We have a 40gal tank, with live and dead rock. My boyfriend does water changes every couple weeks with a vacuum thing. There are about 8 blue leg hermits, 2 larger hermits (don't know the name), <This is too many for a 40 gallon tank. I am not a big fan of hermit crabs, but if you must, no more than one per 10 gallons. Keep an eye on them, they are known to kill small fish, snails, polyps, and pester anemones.> 2 Nassarius snails, a scooter blenny, the pink tip anemone, <Your tank is a bit small for an anemone, and borderline in age. It is best to have an established aquarium, 6 months to one year old. One year is best. Do you have a sump? If so, how big? What species is the anemone?> a sponge, and we just traded our 1 yellow tail damsel and 2 sapphire damsels in for yellow fox face. <A 40 gallon is much too small for a fox face.> But any way back to the question. The anemone keeps shriveling up and going inside of itself. Is that normal? <No, it is stressed! It likely won't last long unless you find and fix the problem immediately. Anemones are difficult to keep. I don't recommend keeping them until you have a full understanding of their care.> For a couple of days the sponge and the anemone were stuck to one another is that ok? <No, a sponge can be quite toxic.> And it can't seem to find a place that it likes to be... It keeps hiding in the rock sometimes where there really isn't too much light, is that bad for it? Any solutions? <I need more information. In addition to the above questions, I need your exact water parameter, including salinity, temperature, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, calcium and alkalinity. I also need to know what lighting and skimmer you are using. How much flow in the tank? I need to know the species of the anemone. Was this anemone shipped? What lighting was it kept under previously? How long have you had the anemone? What are you feeding it?> Thanks, Amber <You're welcome! Brenda>

E. quadricolor (anemone) meltdown!...  7/19/06 I have had a small (initially 1.5" diameter oral disk) E. quadricolor for the last 5 months. It has doubled in size since I acquired it and has been very enjoyable. It has not changed locations in the last 4 months. Three days ago it started to "wilt" as my wife called it. However, the next day it seemed to be recovering and it was doing much better until this afternoon when I got home from work and it looks like so much melting spaghetti ice-cream. <Bad sign> I have kept it in a 55gal w/ 250w 10000K MH and 130w CFL actinics. Salinity has been maintained at 1.025 and temps at 76-78 F. Feeding has been weekly/every other week w/ shrimp in vitamin supplement ('Vitamix Plus'). No powerheads in tank and flow is 400+gph from sump via Surge 3500 through SQUID and 300+gph return from sump via Cap 220 (3.5 ft. head, 1.25" PVC and only 1 90deg and 2 45deg/return line (X3). Conspecifics include Stolonifera, var. mushrooms, 1 sm. Ricordea, 1 sm. strawberry anemone, <Do you know the species name of this actinarian?> xenia, anthelia, zoanthids 'yellow polyps' (sorry about the vagueness), 1 adult ocellaris clown, 1 coral beauty angel, 1 med. skunk cleaner, 3 peppermint shrimp, 1 med. coral banded shrimp, 1 sm sea hare, and several small hermits and snails. I also have a small problem w/ hair algae because of the phosphates in our source water. I haven't checked any other parameters yet, but everyone else appears to be doing well. I run carbon occasionally and use Prime to dechlorinate my water. The only other filtration is 70 lbs LR, 4" DSB on a plenum, and a small (3"X20") generic counter current venturi PS. I dose 1 capful Kent Iodine, 1 capful Kent Essential Elements and 1 tsp Kent Superbuffer weekly. Here are changes that occurred in the last few days:   T-4 days: removed 8 lbs LR in morning and replaced w/ 8 lbs LR w/ yellow polyps, xenia, and GSP in the afternoon (GSP and yellow polyps are located 6" away and also moved 'hairy mushroom' to w/in 4" to stop allelopathy w/ other mushroom on other side of tank)... <This is likely a/the problem here... don't have to be close... chemical> dripped the new rock/corals w/ 1 gal of tank water and replaced w/ fresh. Added iodine, essential elements, and SuperBuffer. <All should be introduced, pre-mixed with new seawater, not directly added to the system> Salinity dropped to 1.024. Mixed 1 gal salt (IO) per instructions and allowed to sit. PUR (tm) filter failed in last 1/2 gal. and used treated tap water for the remainder.   T-3 days: added saltwater top off in AM. E. quadricolor looked poorly in AM and showed marked improvement in PM. salinity - 1.025   T-2 days: normal top off regimen except with treated tapwater and not prefiltered. E. q. continues to improve. salinity - 1.025   T-1 days: same as above. salinity - 1.026   today: E. q. fine in AM and now...yuck!... salinity - 1.026, temp - 77.6 F.      Questions:   1. Can you tell what's the problem? <Likely is allelopathy in general, some ancillary related influences>   2. What do I do to fix it? <More systems to separate livestock, no new livestock, pre-mix water...>   3. Is there any hope for the anemone?    <Yes, move it to other quarters, pronto>   Branon <Bob Fenner>

Anemone problems, actually human 8/6/05 Growing up I helped my Mom switch from a freshwater system to a very nice saltwater system (only after my brother and I popped a hole in her freshwater   aquarium).  She has eventually over the last five years or so grown in to a   400g tank.  I have always taken care of her tanks, and other family members  as well and I have NEVER had as many problems with theirs as I am having with   mine.  I have three anemones in my tank, one is an Atlantic Condy, it was  my first and it is doing wonderfully, besides for the fact that about twice a  week it goes from 4-6 inches to the size of an egg yoke and pulls all of its   tentacles in.  The second was brown, I am not sure the type, but it is  fairly common in all of the different saltwater shops here in Sacto, CA.  I  left ten days ago and my husband has been taking care of the tank.  Since I  bought it on 6/26 <Whoa... time warp...> it has only taken hold once and it let go and floated in to  the corner of the tank and pretty much stayed there basically on top of my flame   scallop.  When I came home, my problem anemone was COMPLETELY white.   The leg or base is showing a pinkish color towards the end but besides that it  is white.   <Unnatural, bleached...> Can you please tell me why this has happened? <Mmm, could be a few things... best for you to educate yourself. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down to the tray with links to all the Anemone articles and FAQs files... Mixing anemone species is not recommended, even in very large systems... there is likely insufficient light...> I apparently  have many different choice places in my tank because the Condy has moved three  times and has always taken hold.  It has NEVER floated around for more than  thirty minutes.   The third anemone is a carpet anemone, if it is on the  bottom it sits upside down- I don't know why. <Stress, inadequate environment> I have tested all of the  levels in my tank and there have been no changes.  I don't know what it's  problem is but I moved it on my own last night in to a spot in my live rocks- it  was doing great- it went back to its usual size of about 8 inches but this  morning when I woke up the stupid thing was on the bottom upside down and only  about 4 inches again.   Please help!! <Please read. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Shock Hi, <Hello! Ryan with you> i have recently acquired a new carpet anemone despite the fact that i already have a Bubbletip. i noticed that my Bubbletip has lost its ability to feed.. it is still able to hold food in its tentacles but unable to ingest it. could it be the chemical warfare going on? <Almost certainly a stress response.  You can try increasing skimming and water changes to counteract> if i remove the carpet, how am i supposed to "revive" the Bubbletip? <Water change, fresh foods, perhaps some Cyclop-eeze?  Be sure to conduct a water test so that you know where the stresses are coming from.> regards, Alvin  <<Allelopathy. B>>

Anemone In Peril? Hi! <Hi there! Scott F. here today> I have included a picture which came out at least clear enough for you guys to see our problem. We've had out BTA for about 5 weeks now and just a few days ago we've noticed that half of it's tentacles are gone! On one side, it has normal green bulb tipped tentacles and the other side for some reason just started shriveling up and now are gone! We can't seem to find anyone who has had this problem. The entire 5 weeks we've had the BTA, we also had a Maroon Clownfish that has "occupied" it for lack of a better word. Here are all the things we have in the tank: (first of all it's a 55 gallon tank with a pro wet/dry filer) 3 Bumble Bee snails, 2 tiny blue algae hermit crabs, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 Peppermint Shrimp, 1 grazer snail, one Kenyan Tree, one Frogspawn, one mushroom, one Yellow Tang, one Powder Blue Tang, one Diamond Watchman, one 4 Striped Damsel, one Yellow/Purple Chromis, 1 Maroon Clown Fish, 1 Coral Beauty and 1 starfish. <Wow! That's quite a load in a 55 gallon! Do consider larger quarters for all in the very near future!> Our lights are one 65 watt daylight bulb and one 65 watt blue light bulb that stand approx. 3 inches from the top of the tank. The BTA has stayed in the same place for the past 3 weeks. Any idea what would cause the BTA to just lose tentacles? Vince Urban <Well, Vince, I wonder if the anemone "lost" the tentacles, or if they are merely retracted? Regardless, I'd start by running some tests for basic water quality parameters, such as ammonia, nitrite, pH, alkalinity, etc. Detectible ammonia or nitrite can, of course, be problematic, as can high levels of nitrate. The other possibility is lighting. I don't think that your lighting is intense enough for long-term success with the anemone. Much brighter light is required for success (Such as metal halide). The other thought is that you need to observe carefully to see of someone is harassing the anemone. Finally, the other thought is that you may need to provide more food the animal, as they do like to eat. Do check out all of these possibilities, and take appropriate action. Regards, Scott F.>

BTA losing tentacles 4/5/04  Hi , I have a BTA which has lost a few tentacles. The tentacles start twisting until they resemble balloon animals with their separate sections. It's at this point ( the twisted part )the tentacles break off. Other than that the Anemone looks good and eats well. The set-up is a 20 Gal. with 130 watt pc and two powerheads for circulation and Remora skimmer. All water parameters are good. Tank receives twice weekly water changes of 10 percent. Could it be receiving to much linear water flow ? How much flow should it receive. Has anyone seen this happen before Thank You , Tony  <I have seen this in corals, usually when they are interacting with another coral. Is your BTA nearby any other corals or anemones? Water movement around the anemone should be just enough to gently toss the tentacles around. If they look as if they are being blowing in one direction, it is probably too much. Best Regards. Adam>

Anemones As Weapons Of Mass Destruction? I have a 150 gallon tank setup, and have recently gotten it populated again after moving and having it down for a year. I never had a problem keeping anemones before, and had a wonderful carpet for many years. <Cool! Sounds like you've got some good experience! Scott F. with you today!> Now I have two bulb tip anemones, and a striped green carpet anemone. The bulb tips are doing fine, and are both host to a yellow-bar maroon clown who moves between them. The trouble is with the carpet. He was happy near the bottom of the tank where I first had him for two days, and then started showing classic signs of being unhappy. I thought perhaps it was water flow, so I moved him up onto the live rock in an area with more flow. Now he's in a cycle of being happy at night and showing signs of dying during the day. I want to save him! <Right off the bat, I have an initial thought, based both on personal experience, and the experiences of others: Mixing multiple specimens or different species of anemones in the same closed system (unless it's huge- like hundreds of gallons or more, is often a recipe for trouble...Anemones, like corals, tend to engage in a form of "chemical warfare", which can make life miserable for the less aggressive specimen> My tank specs are as follows: 150 gallons with 200-300 pounds of live rock. All reef-safe fish (yellow tangs, blue tangs, goby, clowns, etc), Peppermint and Cleaner shrimp, small crabs and snails, various corals (hard and soft), and mushrooms. Curiously enough some of the mushrooms are not surviving well either, while others are doing great. <Again- I'm gonna hazard a guess about allelopathy (the "chemical warfare" situation)...I'll bet that's a good part of the problem> I have a skimmer in the sump, as well as a canister filter, and the water return flows through a filter pad and then over wet/dry balls. I have a CO2 setup with a controller to keep the PH between 8.6 and 8.1. It is normally at 8.4. When it goes above 8.6 the CO2 is released into the skimmer until the rate drops to 8.1 and then it shuts off, and the rate will naturally return to 8.4 or so. I have 4 20 watt 10k bulbs and 4 175watt metal halide 20k bulbs over the tank with timers to cycle dawn/day/dusk. The halides are on for 7 hours. Total lighting is on for 12 hours or so. I have a wave maker with 4 power heads around the tank. <Sounds good...However, I'm curious about the consistency of your water conditions...Anemones generally favor pristine water conditions- undetectable nitrate, stable temperature, and good alkalinity. If these are all okay, I think my theory might be close to the truth. Since I suspect chemical interactions as a possible cause of the problems, I'd engage in  an aggressive water change regimen (my infamous 5% of tank volume twice weekly), and employ liberal use of chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon and Poly Filter...This may give you the edge you need to be successful with the mixed species...I said "may", but it's worth a shot at this point.> This morning the carpet was again not looking happy...almost melting and the open mouth. I move him some, and he was not attached to the rock, but he did stick to my finger. I then used a syringe without the needle to feed him some phytoplankton directly into his mouth area, in the hopes that maybe THAT might help him some. He recovered within 20 minutes, closed mouth and happier, but still not as large and happy as when I bought him. <Well, I'm glad that it engaged in feeding behavior> Prior to this carpet I had a long tentacle and a carpet both die, while all the other animals are thriving (except the mushrooms, which I know are related to the anemones). I have spoken to experts at the place I bought him, and they are still at a loss as to what could cause selective anemone sickness/unhappiness. I seem to have good water flow and good lighting. Calcium is about 480 ppm, alkalinity is fine, nitrates and nitrates are perfect, zero ammonia. The only thing that has been elevated was the Phosphates, they were very high. I have since applied a Chemi-mat twice, and installed the canister filter 2 days ago (with phosphate removing media inside) to try and bring that level down. I apologize for not having measures it since then. <No problem...Phosphate is not directly implicated in causing trouble for animals, but it has been implicated in nuisance algae blooms, and is a good "yardstick" for measuring overall water quality...Keep working on removing it...> Can you suggest actions I can take, and possible causes for the anemones to be degrading? James Spillane <Well, I'm gonna stick by my theory here. If dilution of possible allelopathic chemical compounds through the techniques I've outlined above does not do the trick, I'd have to say that you may need to relocate one or more of the animals...Do let me know how this turns out.  If nothing else, it's food for thought! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> james Spillane

Long-Tentacled Anemone (induced) Troubles I recently purchased 4 long tentacle anemones. I added them to my system and they looked great for about 2 days. Then 3 of them started to shrink and eventually turned into mush which I rapidly cleaned up. I have checked and have had checked by my local fish store my water parameters and they are all fine. I have a 55 gallon with a Fluval canister filter, dual power heads on an undergravel filter, 60 lbs of live rock, a protein skimmer which is generating greenish material that I empty on a daily basis, and 160 watts of mixed lighting (50/50, 10k, actinic). I am concerned because this is the second time this has happened to me. I have some damsels and some turbo snails in the tank. Everything else is doing fine but I am at a loss, as is the fish store, as to what may be causing this. <Very likely one of two things or both... the specimens were "beat" otherwise doomed from the beginning from the rigors of collection, holding, shipping... and/or there was chemical, physical "incompatibility" between them... they don't "just get along" in proximity. Please see the "Anemone" sections posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com and the links from there on these issues. Bob Fenner>

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