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FAQs on Anemone Health 3

FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone Disease 1, Anemone Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3, Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis Disease, Sebae Disease, LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip AnemonesLTAs, Cnidarians, Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Selection, Anemone Placement, Anemone FeedingAnemone SystemsAnemone Lighting

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Anemone Health and Longevity Survey 9/1/03 Due to the poor survival rate in aquaria of anemone, and the lack of complete knowledge of exactly what is required to keep an anemone alive for the long haul, I am conducting a survey to attempt to identify in a statistical manner, factors associated with good survival rates. Could WWM please post this email to inform potential respondents? The results of this survey will be sent to WWM for your information. This survey is only in regard to clownfish hosting species, and I am interested to hear from anybody who has kept one alive for more than two years, but especially interested from anybody who has kept one alive for more than ten years. Replies can be sent to anemonesurvey@yahoo.com.au Please cut and paste this address. This address will be kept active thru September, after which results will be analyzed and published. To help me deal with many emails in an efficient manner, I would ask that the following format be used:- Email subject line to be Species, plus years lived, i.e. - Heteractis Magnifica 3 years. The years to be full years, so 3 1/2 years would be 3 years, and if species is unknown, put Unknown for the species. If more than one anemone, please enter each one in the subject line. In the message section of the email, please start with:- 1. water chemistry, giving PH and all other levels. ( Don't say "good", give the numbers ). 2. temperature parameters 3. lighting in as much detail as possible including height from water surface, and depth of anemone. 4. feeding of anemone 5. all equipment to run the aquarium ( filters, water flow, skimmer, etc.) 6. management. This will include water change regimen, additive schedule, etc. 7 clownfish living in anemone 8 if there are other organisms in the aquaria you believe may be affecting the anemone 9 Has anemone since died, and if so is the cause known? 10 comments. This is anything else you consider important or of interest. Also, as some of the above parameters may have changed over time, an explanation can be given here. Please be brief and to the point, but give full explanation of any particular observations, or tips, you believe have contributed to the health of your anemone. If your email bounces, please do try again, I will be emptying the mailbox as often as I can. Emails will in general not be replied to, however the results will be sent to WWM around mid October, It is my hope that with a large enough response, some patterns emerge of factors that are consistent with keeping anemones healthy. It may be that some very useful information will emerge. To help with this, the more information the better. If you can respond to this survey, please do! Remember that in the wild, anemones live hundreds of years. My hope is that eventually we will know enough to duplicate this in the aquarium. This will also benefit conservation of stocks in the wild. Thanks, Alastair Little <Thank you. Will gladly post. Have you considered issuing this note to other sites, like Breeder's Registry, Reefs.org, ReefCentral? I would. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone Health and Longevity Survey
Thanks Bob for the suggestion, I will post to these other sites also Cheers <Real good. Looking forward to seeing your analysis, compilation. Bob Fenner>

Is my anemone dying? >To who it may concern, >>Well, my name isn't "who", it's Marina but I'm the one concerned today.   >Yesterday I received two green bulb anemones in the mail. I added them into my tank at two different locations. One of the anemones find a spot on the live rock and is looking great. The second one had a white fleshy substance coming out of its mouth when I was putting it into the tank. >>I'm assuming that you wanted to receive these animals, and assuming such, I would recommend that you would contact the shipper immediately when an animal arrives in poor condition. >Well that one has released a lot of this substance and is now releasing a pinkish substance out of its mouth. >>If this seems to be attached to the animal, then I believe that it is eviscerating (spitting out its guts), and if this is the case, it is severely stressed and yes, it's probably dying. >It has considerably shrink in size. It released a lot of cloudy looking water also. Is my anemone dying or is this some reaction to the shipping? >>One reaction to shipping is dying. >The anemone is still holding onto the rock. >>The best you can do is ensure pristine water conditions and hope for the best.  But, if it begins to come apart do save yourself the troubles and remove it from your display ASAP. >My water specs (taken at 8:30pm last night) are pH 8.2, KH 9, NH3 .08, Calcium level 500 ppm. >>Whoa!  You have VERY high Ca. levels.  If you're dosing, I suggest stopping/adjusting your schedule.  Also, while your nitrate readings are very low, I'm not sure that they're conducive to good anemone health.  However, they are so low (assuming you're using a good quality, reliable test kit) that I would not look to them to be the cause of the trouble you may be observing.  I *would*, however, take a close look at your acclimation procedures.  For sensitive animals such as anemones, I, personally, much prefer a VERY slow drip acclimation into a quarantine system for observation.  I prefer this acclimation to take 3-5 hours, unless the water the animal was shipped in was of such poor quality that it required immediate correction. >Please help as it is a beautiful green/purple bulb anemone and would love to save it.   Sincerely, Wayne Sprouse >>I'm not sure you can save it, but don't try to move it if it's attached to any surface.  Perform a water change (minimum 30%), as I'm not sure that such a high Ca. reading is a good thing, though your other readings appear to be decent (excepting that tinge of nitrate, which the water change would help a wee bit).  I would also contact the shipper immediately, ESPECIALLY if they offer a live ship guarantee.  Sorry I can't be of more help or more definitive, but beyond this if it were my specimen I would do what I've outlined and wait and watch.  Also, do a Google search on our homepage for "Bubble Tip Anemone" (or BTA) for more information.  Best of luck, Wayne.  Marina

BTA Help 8/4/03 Hello, I have read most that I could find on your site about the Bubble Tips.  Thanks for such an informative site.  I still have a questions though,  I have a 75 gallon tank with about 55 lbs of live rock, I used all live sand, and the inhabitants include:  4 blue green Chromis, 1 orchid Dottyback,  1 Banggai cardinalfish, 1 flame angelfish, 1 maroon Anemonefish,  1 brown barred goby, 1 yellow tang, 4 turbo snails, 4 red legged hermits, 3 blue legged hermits, and the bubble tip anemone.  I do a five gallon water change a week, religiously. <excellent to see weekly water changes... but the portion is way too small. Larger would be much better for long-term success IMO. 10 gallons minimum (10-20% weekly)> The PH is 8.0, <Yikes! If this is a daytime reading... its getting much lower at night. Rather dangerous at any rate. Do raise this to a night/day range of 8.3-8.6> nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ammonia 0.   <you will need to let a few ppm of nitrate linger for symbiotic cnidarians like coral and anemones for their zooxanthellae> My anemone was fine for the first month or so but recently deflated and crawled into a crevice.   <it may be wanting to split/reproduce. They do this and look dreadful for some days/weeks before splitting> The maroon was having a difficult time getting into him so I moved him out (basically just flipped over the rock he was attached to ) and now he is doing something I haven't been able to find in any of my research.  He looks like he is turning himself inside out.  He is totally deflated on one side and only very slightly inflated on the other.   <still perhaps fission... although it may also be morbidity> He has what looks like small white squiggles in long strings hanging out of  his mouth area.   <mesenterial filaments... defensive> I'm afraid to feed him while he is like this.   <agreed> He has been like this for most of a day now.  Any help would be appreciated.  thanks, Eric Hummel <tough to say with certainty. No worries about feeding for a while. Focus on water quality and observation... do share a pic if you can. Kind regards, Anthony>

- Bubble tip anemones! - Hello and good morning :) <Good evening! Kevin here.> I recently acquired a bubble anemone from a friend who's lights went out and he wasn't able to replace with adequate lighting.  There are two anemones on the same piece of rock.  They've shrunk down to about 1" diameter and are mostly a yellow-ish brown color.  My water tests alright, what can I do to best rehab these little guys? <They'll need time to adapt to the new lighting and water conditions. As long as they were properly handled during transport and acclimated well, they should do just fine provided you have the appropriate system for them. Check it out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm -Kevin> Thanks, Bill

Bleached anemone 5/28/03 Hello, <howdy> I'm new at this...Four days ago I purchased a Bulb Anemone and a Yellow Stripe Maroon Clown. <the anemone you purchased is bleached, precariously close (days/weeks) to death if not taken care of immediately... and would not/should not have been sold/purchased without specific advice/statement regarding its needs and dire straits (the state of anemone health, not the rock band)> By day two they met and seemed very happy with each other. By day three the Anemone had moved and ended up looking like the picture named, "worried1". I quickly went to your amazing site and read everything I could about Anemones. <please recall that as this anemone recovers with improved husbandry in your empathetic care, it will look brown and blotchy (not very attractive) as the symbiotic, life-giving algae return> I fed it a 1/4 inch (in length, but rather thin) of scallops. An hour later after feeding it, it looked like the picture named, "better1". <yes... very good... small frequent feedings (a few times weekly will likely be fine)> Two hours after that it looked like the picture named, "muchbetter1". I went through this same process on day four. I only have 40Watts of light for a 30g Tank. I now know that I need at least 130Watts (will improve tomorrow). <very good, my friend. Spot on> My questions are: Am I starving my Anemone? <not at all... 3-4 times weekly is a fair ballpark. Daily if small portions> Its foot is barely hanging on to a piece of LR and it's facing up; is this normal? <sounds normal... or not unnatural considering its state of health> Its tentacles are between two Rocks; could it be stuck? <definitely not stick> Should I move it and try to set its entire foot on a LR or sand? <the anemone is too weak/stressed. Please do not move it under any circumstance> Please help me; this is my first Anemone and I would love to make it happy. When I fed it the scallops, I saw the Clown feeding it pieces of scallops that fell off; it was amazing. <a natural wonder indeed> Thank you in advance. The, Rookie    <best regards... will look forward to the day you are called Teacher. Kindly, Anthony>

- Dead Anemone... solving the Mystery - <Good morning, JasonC here...> I had a medium-sized BTA for about a 1.5 months.  He was anchored in the front of my tank about half-way down my rock structure in a 65 gallon tank receiving light from a 175 watt MH and a 96 watt PC. It received no light from the other 96 watt PC.  He was completely fine for the first month and a half opening during the day and closing at night.  I fed him weekly with small bits of scallops soaked in Selcon.  About 2 weeks ago he stopped opening except for briefly every few days and died this weekend.  It was still attached to the rockwork until the very end.  I am unable to come up with any reasons for this and thought you may offer some ideas.  My water is such: Salinity 1.023 PH 8.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrate 0 Calcium 300-350 Temp  usually 78-80 Hardness 4.5 meq I add iodine occasionally and am using a 20 gallon sump with miracle mud and Caulerpa.  My temperature has, for short periods of time crept up to 84 on several occasions due to spring temps but has never stayed there.  PH has always been stable except for one week when it went up to 8.6 for about a week until I brought it back down.  I do filter with Polyfilters about every other week and do water changes with RO water.  The only periods of less than ideal conditions has been some days when the temperature of the tank has changed as much as 3-4 degrees in a 24 hour period but that rarely happened.  There are no other anemones in the tank and nothing was visibly bothering the anemone.  What could have happened and did I do anything drastically wrong? Thanks! <Honestly... it's really hard to be certain. It could very well be that you did nothing wrong and the organism was already dying when you got it. As a quick aside, I wouldn't add iodine without testing... just to be certain the iodine is needed at all, but I doubt that was the problem here. The temperature swings, while not good in the larger scheme of things, probably weren't the cause. If the temperature had swung like that for the entire month and a half, that would be a viable cause, but not in this instance. Same thing applies to the pH. Cheers, J -- >

Ich on tang, dead anemone Hi your website is really nice. It's a great help I'm sure for everyone in the hobby !!! I have a small 50g reef tank with 60 pounds of live rock. It's running now for more than a year. My tank setup is: - 2 Fluval 303 - 1 CPRs BakPak 2 as protein skimmer - 1 powerhead (150 gph) - 6 fluorescent (3 actinic and (3) 10 000k)   I have 4 snails, 2 hermit crab, 1 Lysmata amboinensis, 1 small mushroom anemone, 1 yellow wrasse, 2 clownfish (frenatus kind) and 1 hippo tang. So my first problem is that my tang got ick. I did the mistake to bought it even if it was a bit sick.<would quarantine all fish for 2-4 weeks before introduction to main system> I have it since 3 weeks and the problem is getting worse, but the other fish have no symptom.<they will> I have given to it a FW bath.<good would use Methylene blue in with the freshwater....do read the information on this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm> There have been a good result but after a few days the ick have came back in strength. I'm not really equipped to put the fish in a QT tank, so what should I do with it ?<repeat freshwater dips with Methylene blue> Is it a good idea to raise the temperature at 83oF with my invertebrate in the main tank ?<no, treat this fish with FW dips not within your main aquarium>  Would it be a good thing to buy a UV sterilizer? <yes, will help in the future> Any idea?! I will try it :) My second problem is that I did bought a blue tip anemone 1 weeks ago and it have died 2 days after. My water is good,  all my chemical parameter are fine.<anemones need iodine supplements> I did respected the acclimatizing procedure. When I bought it, it was retracted and the salesperson told me that it was to protect its food from the cleaner shrimp that it was with. After it has been put in my tank, I putted it in the sand near some live rock.   Here is an historic of what happened: time 0: It's seem ok to me but its not seem to stick on the substrate. 3 hour after the introduction: The disc is now half of the size it was and the body column is longer. The anemone is not sitting on is pedal disc but on is side.<not good> 12 hours after the introduction: The light of the tank have just opened and the anemone have retrieve its shape from the time 0 and look like a pancake on the bottom ok my tank <sounds bad>:) all the tentacle are now really tiny(  minimum  size they can be . I decided to put it on live rock near. 24 hours after the introduction: It's now upside down, so I replaced it in the sand. 48 hours after introduction: I come back from work and I found it upside down, it have lost some tentacle. There is a bit of a white stuff that is coming out of it (it's look like flesh and my hippo tang seamed to find it good:) I'm not seeing the mouth anymore... A brown stuff is covering all the oral disc.<sorry about your loss> What can have happened to my anemone? Any ideas or comments on the setup of my tank would help me gratefully.<your setup sounds fine, would check all chemistry though> Thank you to have read me and sorry for my none perfect English... I'm a French Canadian. < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm read over this and our FAQ's before you purchase another anemone.>                                                      Steve Timmons P.S. Do you have any idea what is the quote for transport to Canada for your new book?, I want to buy it!! One last thing, do you know one good online store that would deliver fish and non-vertebrate in Qu?ec, Canada?  <check out the MarineCenter...www.themarinecenter.com  or www.liveaquaria.com , am not sure if they ship to Canada though, but call them up and ask, good luck, IanB>          

Long Tentacle Anemone Problem You have a wonderful site and has seemed to answer so many of my anemone questions but still my long tentacle anemone does not seem to be doing so great. at first it attached right away and buried its foot in between a rock and some sand. The Clarkii clown that was already in the tank refused to go in the anemone. and after a few days the anemone's color seemed to change from white to light brown. <There's the problem right there, the anemone may have been bleached when you purchased it. Turning brown means it's getting back the zooxanthellae that it cannot live without. Remember, with anemones white = don't buy!> then most of its tentacles started to shrivel up and turn green. <Better yet> now the anemone has moved from its spot tucked under the rocks and when it moved it seemed to leave behind a lay of skin from its base. <That's fine, as long as it moved itself> I realized this because it has the same orange color and is dangling from the rocks were the anemone once was. <Hmmmm.... orange column? Sounds like you may have a Caribbean Condylactis anemone which would explain the clown's disinterest.> I am no worried about it moving I think there was too much currant were he was. <A moving anemone is an unhappy one, if he does not like the spot he'll move> but it still doesn't seem to eat the shrimp that I have been trying to feed it. <It seems like this whole anemone saga happened over the course of a week or two. If it has not been in the tank very long, I wouldn't worry about its refusal of food> I checked all the water conditions and they seemed fine and I know there is plenty of light cause the tank gets sunlight from the sky light above it and has its own lights too. <Well, now it boils down to which kind of anemone you have. Condylactis anemones don't require much light (a few power compacts or VHO will do just fine). Long tentacle anemones will do much better under metal halide (I've seen it go either way, bleaching under PC's or thriving). If this light you have on your tank is not at least a few power compact lamps, you need to look into upgrading your lighting or finding a new home for the anemone. I would not count on the sky light for anything.> what is happening to my poor anemone and what can I do to help? <The color change you're experiencing is healthy and normal. Its refusal to feed may not be a problem, try again in a week or so. See if you can dig up some pictures of both true long tentacle anemones and Condylactis anemones so you can compare them to yours. Good luck! -Kevin> Virginia

Bubble Trouble? (Bubble Tip Anemone) Hey, <Hey there! Scott F. with you today!> My question is about a Bubble Tip Anemone. I have had it in my tank for about a month and a half. For about two weeks I have noticed that food will not stick to it anymore. I have to use my feeding stick and place the food on the mouth and it will open and take it but nothing will stick to the tentacles. The lighting is PC 2x55 and I have the Anemone about six to seven inches from the surface. What would make it become non sticky? <Really hard to say...Perhaps a reaction to some unfavorable environmental condition or other stress...Check water quality and other environmental parameters> My clownfish really helps me out too, the bigger pieces of food I put in the clownfish will bring them to the anemone. But lately the food eventually falls out and I have to keep putting it in until it is swallowed. The Anemone has lost a little color, but that was when it was close to the bottom so I moved it as close as I could to the surface, to where it is now. I have not seen any differences since it has been at the top. What would be the best thing to do? I just hope that the Anemone is not going to die. I hope you guys know something to help my Anemone. Thanks, Chris Hepburn <Well, Chris- I think that you really don't want to be moving the anemone any more. Changes have to be done gradually to avoid shocking the animal. The lighting may be insufficient for long-term maintenance of the animal, but don't do too much too fast! On the other hand, I'd keep up your persistent attempts to feed the animal. Make sure that your water quality is as high as possible, and continue your efforts...Basically, keep doing what you're doing...Be patient, be consistent...Hang in there! Regards, Scott F>

Anemone caught in overflow Hi all, This is a bit of an odd question, well, not really the question but the circumstances.....  My boyfriend and I have been keeping marine tanks for the last couple of years, and recently he got a job doing maintenance on tanks.  So he just called me and an anemone in one of the tanks was caught in the overflow.  He said that about 10% of it is ripped off.  They have it in a bucket right now, and aren't putting it back in the tank.  My question is what kind of chance does the anemone have of living? <Actually, quite a good chance> he called me for my opinion, and I don't think that it has much of a chance if that much of it was mangled, but I may be wrong--I was wondering what you think?  Sorry I don't have any info on the tank, but if there's a chance of saving it, it will be in a hospital tank with knowledgeable people taking care of it..... <If this system is large enough, otherwise stable, well-filtered... I would put the anemone back in> A really quick note would make me feel a lot better, I respect all of you very much. Thanks, Chris <Do cover/screen those intakes. Bob Fenner>

The Anemone Within? (Strange Anemone Behavior) My anemone has only been in the tank for about two weeks and has already started to act kind of strange. It is purple-tipped and white.  <A Condylactis species? A nice anemone to start with...can be tough and forgiving> For some odd reason, its mouth is HUGE and some white curly thing is coming out of its mouth.  Its tentacles are absolutely fine, they are still colored and everything but its mouth is huge.  It almost looks like a baby anemone is coming out of its mouth!  Can that happen?  <Mmm, my understanding is that anemones reproduce by a form of fission...I suppose there is some possibility that this may be a reproductive event, but it's hard to say without a good picture> The curly fuzz-like stuff almost looks like tentacles in a way and each day more of this fuzz is coming out of its mouth.  Right now, there is a mound of its sitting on its mouth but its still coming out of the mouth.  I'm assuming this can either be a  baby anemone or a bad omen.  Please help!  Thanks <Most curious! It's really difficult to guess what this could be...The animal could be ejecting its internal organs, feces, or who knows what! If the animal is otherwise behaving normally, this may be some sort of environmental response...If you could send some pics, maybe we could get a better idea of what's going on...Do keep in touch! Sorry I couldn't be more helpful here. Regards, Scott F>

Ailing BTA? Ok, so I have 2 rose bubble tip anemones in my 30 gallon aquarium.  The parameters of the water are standard, 8.5 pH <that's a might high, check here for the FAQs on pH - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm here's the FAQs on your charges - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm >, salinity 1.023 <anenomes and other cnidarians like it a little higher, 1.024-1.025> , ammonia, nitrites, nitrates 0 <All good>. Here's the problem, the larger of the anemones is open on a daily basis, but the smaller of the 2 stays deflated most of the day and then opens up an hour before the lights go out and then stays open most of the night and then closes in the morning when the lights go out.  As far as other things in the tank I have a peppermint shrimp, 2 gold striped maroons (who house themselves in the larger of the 2 anemones) a galaxy coral, Sinularia colt, metallic green stars, toadstool leather, Ricordea polyps, green stripe mushrooms, blue xenias (octocoral), a pair of harlequins, the occasional Linckia for food, 2 other types of Kenya tree corals (different colors) and a pink pom-pom pulse and then different variations of Zoanthus and a Heteractis malu measuring about 2" in diameter.  This might sound like overkill on the tank, Sure looks that way to me> when in reality most of these are frags so the trees are only about an inch tall and the galaxy is about 2"x1/2" in size etc.  <And when these frags get bigger, what then? IMO, you've probably got massive allelopathic warfare going on right now. Soft corals are notoriously bad neighbors, and mixing anenomes is never a good idea. Personally, I think you need to move out the corals and the h. malu, your BTA's will be much happier.> I run power compacts on the tank with the blues coming on at 6a, whites coming on at 7a and then off at 7p and the blues off at 8p. <Everything I've read, and everyone I've talked to points out that's more for our aesthetics than the animals needs.>  The whites are 10k 55w and the blues are super actinic 36w so that gives the tank a total of 182watts.  There's 75+ lbs of live rock mostly encrusted with various macro algaes <Hopefully not Caulerpa, yet another allelopathic organism> and coralline algaes and a substrate anywhere from 1"-2" deep.  The BTA didn't start doing the deflation thing until I added the second anemone, but I was also wondering if he might also be closing because of maroons.. they still try to sit in him every now and then even when he's closed. But at night one of them sleeps in him and it doesn't seem to bother him.  Also, I've noticed that if he is open during the day and I clean the tank i.e. scrub the front glass of algae or move rocks or any simple maintenance inside the tank the anemone will close for the rest of the day or at least until an hour before "sunset." <Are you being careful to wash your hands before putting them in the tank? Soap only, preferably no perfumes, no moisturizers, & avoid detergents.> Both anemones are located about 5 or so inches from the light and they live in caves in the rocks that I placed them on after their initial acclimation. I assume they like their areas as they've never tried to relocate.  I'm actually tempted to try and place the anemone in my 100gallon reef where it wouldn't have any clownfish bothering it (the clowns in the 100 have already claimed their territories) I just don't want him to melt away although he doesn't look like he's getting any smaller.. but I haven't been able to feed him since this started (so he hasn't eaten for 3 weeks).. he used to have a voracious appetite, he would have 2 meals a day sometimes of Mysis or formula one.  I'd give him really small portions and I never noticed any regurgitated food, and the clowns don't poach. Might sound odd but they only eat Hikari brine and granulated foods. If I put Mysis in the tank, they actually will mouth the shrimp, and then run over to the BTA and spit it out to feed the anemone. <From what I understand they're saving it for later, little buggers lack the brain power to realize that there will be no later with that particular storage location.> (I find this thoroughly entertaining to watch sometimes) Well.. maybe I'm just overreacting.. but I've grown rather fond of my rose BTA's and don't really want to lose any of them. <I don't blame you, but do consider giving them their own tank.> thanks in advance, Jonathan And also, is the invertebrate book available yet? <While, I can't give you any definite info, I do know they're working as quickly as possible to get it out, and balancing that with providing a quality product. OTOH, I can't wait to get my grubby paws on it too. ; ) >

- Anemone Questions - Dear WetWebMedia crew, <Good morning, JasonC here...> My anemones have been acting strange lately, and I am hoping for you to answer some of my questions about what is concurring with my anemones. First, one of my anemones recently clouded my tank yesterday night by emitting or releasing some sort of gas. <A gas? Gas implies something that cannot be seen, but I'm guessing you were able to see this release... could have been a number of things, hard to say for certain.> Today, everything in my tank is fine and my anemone is still alive, but I wish to know what exactly occurred. <Very hard for me to say 'exactly' what happened.> Second, one of my anemones flipped itself over on the sand, so its tentacles are hidden in the sand.  On its backside, there are fuzz-like substances that are kind of white an curly.  I have no idea what they are, can you tell me what they are, and if they are safe or not to the anemone? <It sounds to me like your anemone is in ill health.> Last, how exactly do you make anemones split? <One cannot 'make' an anemone split - they do this on their own when conditions support it.> Do you feed them often? <No.> Do you give them a lot of light? <Anemones need a lot of light period - without they will eventually die. Please read these articles: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm > Please tell me with an email back! THANK YOU! Sincerely, Tyler S. <Cheers, J -- >

Anemone Tentacle Regeneration? Hello crew, quick question.  I have a long tentacle anemone that apparently lost it's tentacles.  This guy was doing fine, he had moved to a location of his choice and was eating regularly.  I came home one day and all the tentacles were missing, they appeared like maybe they were withdrawn into the foot but I guess not.  About 2 weeks later new tentacles are growing. He is about half his original size now, the only change in the tank during this time was the addition of a red brittle star.  Question, did he get eaten by the star or is this otherwise normal behavior? Thanks for any help!!! <Well, I wouldn't call that "normal", but it certainly is a possibility that they were somehow damaged, whether by a predator, or due to environmental stress. The fact that they are growing back so well is just another testimony to the remarkable regenerative properties of these animals. Keep an eye on the starfish, and other potential anemone "munchers" in your tank. Good luck with this animal's recovery process! Regards, Scott F> Mike Maas

Anemones As Weapons Of Mass Destruction? I have a 150 gallon tank setup, and have recently gotten it populated again after moving and having it down for a year. I never had a problem keeping anemones before, and had a wonderful carpet for many years. <Cool! Sounds like you've got some good experience! Scott F. with you today!> Now I have two bulb tip anemones, and a striped green carpet anemone. The bulb tips are doing fine, and are both host to a yellow-bar maroon clown who moves between them. The trouble is with the carpet. He was happy near the bottom of the tank where I first had him for two days, and then started showing classic signs of being unhappy. I thought perhaps it was water flow, so I moved him up onto the live rock in an area with more flow. Now he's in a cycle of being happy at night and showing signs of dying during the day. I want to save him! <Right off the bat, I have an initial thought, based both on personal experience, and the experiences of others: Mixing multiple specimens or different species of anemones in the same closed system (unless it's huge- like hundreds of gallons or more, is often a recipe for trouble...Anemones, like corals, tend to engage in a form of "chemical warfare", which can make life miserable for the less aggressive specimen> My tank specs are as follows: 150 gallons with 200-300 pounds of live rock. All reef-safe fish (yellow tangs, blue tangs, goby, clowns, etc), Peppermint and Cleaner shrimp, small crabs and snails, various corals (hard and soft), and mushrooms. Curiously enough some of the mushrooms are not surviving well either, while others are doing great. <Again- I'm gonna hazard a guess about allelopathy (the "chemical warfare" situation)...I'll bet that's a good part of the problem> I have a skimmer in the sump, as well as a canister filter, and the water return flows through a filter pad and then over wet/dry balls. I have a CO2 setup with a controller to keep the PH between 8.6 and 8.1. It is normally at 8.4. When it goes above 8.6 the CO2 is released into the skimmer until the rate drops to 8.1 and then it shuts off, and the rate will naturally return to 8.4 or so. I have 4 20 watt 10k bulbs and 4 175watt metal halide 20k bulbs over the tank with timers to cycle dawn/day/dusk. The halides are on for 7 hours. Total lighting is on for 12 hours or so. I have a wave maker with 4 power heads around the tank. <Sounds good...However, I'm curious about the consistency of your water conditions...Anemones generally favor pristine water conditions- undetectable nitrate, stable temperature, and good alkalinity. If these are all okay, I think my theory might be close to the truth. Since I suspect chemical interactions as a possible cause of the problems, I'd engage in  an aggressive water change regimen (my infamous 5% of tank volume twice weekly), and employ liberal use of chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon and Poly Filter...This may give you the edge you need to be successful with the mixed species...I said "may", but it's worth a shot at this point.> This morning the carpet was again not looking happy...almost melting and the open mouth. I move him some, and he was not attached to the rock, but he did stick to my finger. I then used a syringe without the needle to feed him some phytoplankton directly into his mouth area, in the hopes that maybe THAT might help him some. He recovered within 20 minutes, closed mouth and happier, but still not as large and happy as when I bought him. <Well, I'm glad that it engaged in feeding behavior> Prior to this carpet I had a long tentacle and a carpet both die, while all the other animals are thriving (except the mushrooms, which I know are related to the anemones). I have spoken to experts at the place I bought him, and they are still at a loss as to what could cause selective anemone sickness/unhappiness. I seem to have good water flow and good lighting. Calcium is about 480 ppm, alkalinity is fine, nitrates and nitrates are perfect, zero ammonia. The only thing that has been elevated was the Phosphates, they were very high. I have since applied a Chemi-mat twice, and installed the canister filter 2 days ago (with phosphate removing media inside) to try and bring that level down. I apologize for not having measures it since then. <No problem...Phosphate is not directly implicated in causing trouble for animals, but it has been implicated in nuisance algae blooms, and is a good "yardstick" for measuring overall water quality...Keep working on removing it...> Can you suggest actions I can take, and possible causes for the anemones to be degrading? James Spillane <Well, I'm gonna stick by my theory here. If dilution of possible allelopathic chemical compounds through the techniques I've outlined above does not do the trick, I'd have to say that you may need to relocate one or more of the animals...Do let me know how this turns out.  If nothing else, it's food for thought! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> james Spillane

Anemone Question hi again! well, I've acquired a pink skunk clownfish, and a Sebae anemone (after purchasing a new pc light fixture).  however, i just read in a forum that if it dies, my other fish could be in jeopardy?  how/why does this happen, and will i be able to notice it before it happens and prevent it, or could i unexpectedly come back to my dorm and find my fish all dead?    thanks again for all your help, Joe <Hey Joe, when an anemone dies it turns into a pile of rotting mush.  With no skeletal structure or dense tissue to slow the process, it can spike your water rather quickly.  Keep an eye on the anemone, if it looks healthy it usually is watch for anything out of the ordinary and check out our FAQs on Sebaes.  Best Regards, Gage http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/sebaeanefaqs.htm  >

Stressed BTA 3/27/03 okay.. so I have a curiosity question... I received a green BTA the other day and when I received it (it was shipped for about 12 hours) it was attached to the plastic inside the bag and was a bit deflated.. i went through a 90 minute acclimation process of temp and water and then dropped him in the tank (a 30 gallon with a rose BTA that's more than healthy) the first day he expanded a little and then second day he expanded even more. but by the end of the second day he had (what looked to like to me) turned himself inside-out and deflated all his tentacles and base.  by this morning he's no longer inside out, but he hasn't inflated at all.. so what I was wondering is if this is a total lost cause or if there's any possibility of a recovery of this one.. at the moment I think he's attached to the rock in which he's hiding.. so I figured that might actually be a plus as compared to not being attached.. any info greatly appreciated Jonathan <the anemone really should have been put in QT first like all new additions. Had it been so, we could safely sit back in observation and with hope of recovery without fear of a sudden death wiping out the whole display tank. I really can't emphasize strongly enough the need to QT all new livestock. Now that it is in the tank, however, a move to QT after shipping and then the display water will take a serious toll on the poor creature if it doesn't finish it off altogether. I still have hope of it surviving. Leave it in place and watch it closely for the next 48 hours in particular. Be prepared to remove it quickly if it slimes over. Otherwise, it will take some days/weeks to slowly acclimate to the new water quality and lighting scheme. Please do read thought the archives on for articles and FAQs on QT protocol and BTAs. Best of luck. Anthony>
Re: stressed BTA 3/27/03
ok.. well here's a slight update..  the anemone is in the QT tank.. that's what I use my 30 gallon for.. I do frags and new shipments and the like in there.. it's just that the other anemone in the tank is still in QT as I just received it about 1-1/2 weeks ago. <excellent to hear... wrong assumption on my part... my bad <G> here's the odd thing though.. the anemone seems to have flipped onto it's side and is still responsive so I know he's alive (I can see slight shifts in the deflated tentacles, or movements in the base).. so, on his side I noticed it looks as if something came along and bit a hole in the side of the animal.. so could he possibly be splitting? <it could... but it is much more likely that it is simply in a state of duress.> I don't know how clean the whole fission reproduction thing is, but it's the only positive thing I can think of for the situation that he seems to be in.. <it is admittedly an ugly process> but you can see his insides.. almost what appear to be intestines that are outlining the edge of his "wound" <alas, it is much more common that it sustained an injury (often when bagged for shipping)> okay.. so I know these pictures probably won't help, but I figured it couldn't hurt.. if you look carefully the anemone is in a horseshoe position, and at the bend in the horseshoe is where the divide began on the anemone.  the more pronounced area where you can see the fluorescent green tentacles is the bottom half of the anemone and if you look directly above that you can see the base portion of the other half.. hope all this makes sense. :/ <understood but not clear from the photo bud> thanks again Jonathan (by now you guys are probably wishing you could just delete my emails, but I really appreciate all the help your crew has given me :) <no worries... and thanks for your efforts too. Hang in there with this anemone. Simply focus on water quality and do have patience. Not much else to be done at present. Best regards, Anthony>

Sebae Anemone Hello Again, (It has been about 1 month since my last email, hehehe)    The tank is running perfect with the RO water changes and the Prizm, (I don't know about a 90 gallon, but for my 26 it's pulling out tons of dry  skim, only complaint is a little noise, a good compromise though.)  I had a sebae anemone surprise delivered to me in a ordering mix up, I contemplated sending it back but didn't know if it would survive the shipping again so decided to keep the freebee. Its white, which scared me at first, but then I realized that all the pictures of bleached anenomes appeared translucent, mine is sort of a creamy off white sheet rock color.  It has purple tips.  It attached to my rock in the lower areas of the tank and hasn't moved yet (1 week).  It responds well to being touched (shrinks away) but doesn't feel sticky as it probably should.  The only thing that it would eat was a little squid, no Mysis, fish fry, or krill.  I have 130 watts of brand new lighting right on top of the tank.  Do you think this anemone has expelled its algae or can I salvage him. Oh he's about 3 inches diameter and my percula shows absolutely no interest. I know clowns have a tendency to fight but could I add a small clarkii?  Thanks a ton guys. Eric <Many Sebaes are naturally white so he should be fine.  The lighting will be sufficient for this anemone also.  Please read here for more info on these guys: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Cody>

Anemone sores and other fun topics Hi there, Have a couple of questions for you. After doing a fair amount of research and discussing issues with what seemed to be the most conscientious dealer, have made some choices that (according to this site, which I only discovered after purchasing livestock) I find myself questioning/regretting. My plan was to take my 4 or 5 month old 55 gallon (lights: 2 96 watt CustomSeaLife Smart Lamp Twin Tubes, filter: Euro-Reef Skimmer in 20g sump) tank and to add a (relatively) hardy sea anemone and to wait until it found a comfortable place, then to add a few fish (inc. a clownfish), then after a few months (and after raising my calcium levels which are a bit low) to add a few clams and soft corals, and then to get a few more fish to complete the system. <Let's start with "hardy" anemone. This is an oxymoron. Anemones are "immortal" in the wild, but surely not so when in the care of most humans. They require absolutely pristine, AGED, systems with PERFECT water. They also require intense lighting (metal Halides or shallow VHO or PC of sufficient wattage/intensity). Approximately 200 watts of mixed PC SmartLamps is totally insufficient to survive in a 55 unless this anemone is a rock dweller and finds a place close to the light's) which isn't the case here.> After reading a few books and talking with the staff at my local store, this (based upon the fact that I would only stick with hardy species and would keep a fairly light fish-load) seemed plausible. <I suggest you ask advice from someone who has nothing to sell you, IOW, no self-interest or profit motive.  I'll bet you didn't hear what I'm telling you.  Also, NEVER rush to buy a tank inhabitant (especially fairly toxic ones) based on convenience. If you want a hardy anemone, a captive bred/cloned BTA is the only conscientious choice, and then only under the above conditions.> However... Mistake/Problem #1 - For my anemone, I chose a fairly large LTA (H. doreensis), which I see that you don't recommend. I chose this species because it was described as a hardy species in John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums", and because there were no BTA that I could find that week. <Perhaps for John...  but if you read his web page you will also read that many anemones live no longer than one year in captivity, even in professionally maintained public aquariums. This is sadly unfortunate for a creature that would literally live forever in the wild barring contact with humans. As an example, if you wanted a small peaceful fish and all you could find that week was large aggressive fish unsuitable for your tank, would you buy it because that was all that you could find that week? You need to exercise patience Eric!  Haste, especially in marine aquariums, makes big time waste.> I chose what I thought to be a healthy looking anemone, took it home and introduced it to my tank. I then placed it into the tank and left it alone. I assumed that it would then find a place that it liked and burrow it's way into the live sand (1 or 2 inches deep) eventually. Well, I've left it there for a week and while it has found a place that it apparently likes, it still has not dug into the sand and attached to anything. I assumed that this was natural and that the anemone would eventually root itself into the sand. <Depends on the anemone, health, vigor, finding a truly suitable place, sufficient light. I have anemones, 96 watt PC's (not over anemones), VHO and MH lighting, some over 55/60 gallon tanks. 96 watt SmartLamps would only work with shallow displays, so I wonder how happy or comfortable this anemone truly is?  Also, how was it handled and bagged at the LFS? Was it attached in sand? How was it removed/released from the attachment at the store? Injury to the foot is likely to have happened at this time.> However, after inserting a tomato clown (which took to it immediately), I have noticed the clownfish occasionally biting at the anemone's foot, and yesterday noticed that there are now 2 gray spots of tissue near the foot. <Let me understand, the anemone isn't attached, yet you introduce a clownfish that will be trying to "host" in this new inhabitant? This may be part of the reason it is having a hard time attaching. Too much fish activity. You need to slow down quite a bit or your rush is going to cause you some difficulties Eric! Are you seeing how making one hasty error compounds into several that end in meltdown?  You never really found out about the basic needs and care of the anemone, didn't wait for it to make itself comfortable and at home, lack of light, poor water quality, add more fish that interact/harass anemone, and then expect it to work out?  How can that happen?> These look a bit like small canker sores (ouch!). What is going on here? DO you think that the fish is causing the sores or that the sores are because of something else and the fish is just nipping at them? <Could well be pre-existing "sores" from the LFS trying to release and bag for transport. Then compounded by water params, noticed by fish who thinks it's something to worry about too. Off we go to the round-round races. Is it possible to return the anemone?> Searched for any FAQ dealing with this & came up empty. Have to assume that it is likely that the damage to the creatures foot will prevent it from eventually attaching to anything and will hasten it's demise. <This is possible without some action to improve conditions/harassment by clown, lighting, etc.  Have you attempted to feed this anemone? Without proper lighting and feeding it won't last long. Please do go to WetWebMedia.com and search for the anemone articles for proper care.> Also, as this LTA looks a bit different from the ones I see most often on the web, being a light purple semi-transparent color with spots, I'm not sure aside from shrinkage how I will know that this guy is on his way out? I can't see any green hue to him, will the purple color fade? <Hopefully not, and perhaps may color up on body some. This is a vital part of assessing health upon purchase or pass at store. Pigment equals better health/survivability.> Mistake/Problem #2 - I began a drip of Kalkwasser to increase the calcium level in my tank. I saw one FAQ saying that this was not recommended with Anemones, but couldn't find a reason & haven't seen this anywhere else. Why not? <One, Kalk will maintain calcium, but a supplement to get it in the proper range is advisable. Kalk is a caustic material and affects pH. No mention of pH here.... Also, anemones don't generally live amongst hard corals needing different conditions, current, etc. Anemones do best in anemone tanks designed and kept for them. Unhappy anemones will tend to move about and cause problems in systems with all other inhabitants unable to move. (mixed systems).> Mistake/Problem #3 - Although the Tullock book describes the problem with anemones and corals briefly. Had been told by my local store that this would be Ok if #1 the corals were kept as far away as possible from the anemone and #2 if water changes were done weekly. <See above about seeking advice from un-interested parties. IE: someone who has nothing to sell to you. How did they propose you stop an anemone from moving? The corals are surely predictable, they will stay where you put them! Water changes are standard procedure.> As I change 10% of my water once a week (with natural sea water), I was looking forward to adding just a few corals down the road. As this is one repeated point I have noticed your FAQs, I guess that I will abstain from getting any (unless my anemone dies soon, in which case I may switch gears to a coral centered tank).   <Search/look into "Bommies" or rock outcroppings with sand areas between.  Get it together with the anemone/clown (perhaps remove clown to QT), provide proper light/conditions for anemone until it finds "its" spot and attaches, then perhaps add a few easy corals to another rock outcropping AWAY from the anemone "bommie" to keep them separated.  Keep perfect water params to assist anemone in healing foot if possible. The clown isn't helping. However, I have not seen much as far as what sort of other inverts would be good in an anemone tank. Aside from Clams, are there any good choices? <Clams are a good choice for hard coral tanks (LPS/SPS) NOT really anemone tanks. Same as the Kalk answer above. Different conditions/habits, needs/water params.  You are heading for a mixed tank which requires compromises and additional accurate observations, skill and correct action. I would be cautious here. Some corals will do well with some anemones, some not. This depends on the anemone. A BTA would have been a better choice for this. More research required my friend.> Also, if my dealers advice were sound, would there be any 'good/better' coral choices? <Perhaps. See above.... I have some mushrooms, soft corals with BTA's, hard corals do not like them at all. I wouldn't subject clams to them either. To be accurate, my BTW hasn't moved in over a year and a half so has no further contact with any corals.> Really don't want my tank to be just an anemone, fish & live-rock system...Anyways, thanks for your articles and FAQs. Eric Harvey <Best to slow down and have a plan before you pay your money and take your chance. I highly advise planning your tank/lighting/skimming/water params/maintenance, etc. to a list of compatible inhabitants. This must be a systematic approach, not based on availability, but planning and patience.  Purchasing a system and then buying inappropriate inhabitants for the system or desire care/maintenance is a recipe for disaster. Stabilize your situation and then get a good plan for your tank/inhabitants and follow it. Do not buy anything incompatible with your tank or plan, and even then, only the healthiest and best you can find, after plenty of research on each.  I sure hope this helps you avoid future problems and with stabilizing the situation with the anemone/clown.  Good luck!  Craig>

BTA CLOSED UP 2/6/03 I have had this BTA for a couple of months. It is attached to a piece of coral. It exists with a percula in it. Yesterday while performing a 20% water change a small piece of evaporated salt fell into the BTA. Since then it immediately closed up and has stayed this way. I realize it cannot eat like this. <indeed... just irritated> I also understand if it dies it will detach and float. <not correct necessarily. May just sink and stink> Is there anything to do other than wait?? <for the time past now... the damage, if any, is done> It is closed up tight like a fist. Thanks Paul <Paul... please do browse our wetwebmedia.com archives specifically for the FAQs (many pages here) just on BTAs. I suspect that you would learn a lot and perhaps be surprised about its needs, reproductive tendencies, feeding requirements, and the irritation from that clownfish. Anthony>

Anemone Lost Its Tentacles! I have had this anemone for about 3 months and he has been very aggressive to anything but a skunk shrimp that comes near him. He has even ate a tang that was bigger than the old silver dollars.( pretty expensive food). <Yikes!> Hears my question that No one can answer.  In the last few days he started to twist his tentacles but the stem hasn't twisted with him. Yesterday morning he twisted the tentacles off. He is still attached to the rock but the tentacles just laid on the bottom. In fear of any gases admitting from him I moved the tentacles to a bowl, and setup another tank and drained water from the main tank to put in it. I than put the rock he's attached to in the same tank. <A nice move on your part!> When he separated his tentacles, within a few minute my Pulsating Xenia closed up and don't look to happy. <Just a theory, but it sounds like some kind of compounds were released during this process. perhaps even nematocysts?> I did a 25% or more water change from the water I keep on hand. <Another good move on you part...dilution of toxic products is smart> He still moves his stem a little and the tentacles are sticky and they are attached to a part of the stem that came detached, they do move very slightly. So, what's up with this. Here's my stats: 46 gal. 1.023 gravity 0 amm. 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 81 deg. 8.2 ph Aqua Rays 30W T8 says S&F Coralife 50/50 6000K/Actinic 03 does says what watts. I normally feed him a freshwater feeder fish once a week, and <I'd avoid freshwater fish for feeders...Instead, use "marine" foods, like krill minced clams, etc> Supplements of Iodine 1 Tbs. about 3 times a week. Coralife Invertebrate Smorgasbord about once a week 1Tbs. VitaChem once a week also a Tbs. A Seaclone skimmer that I get a cup of scum a week. I also shut down the skimming when I add the supplement, and don't run it until 24 hrs. later so it doesn't skim any of the trace elements I just added out. Other critters I have are, as before mentioned a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, and Pulsing Xenia, Tube Anemone, 2 feather dusters. Sand sifter starfish, Tang and a Percula Clownfish. Is there anything I can do for the Anemone or has he had it. A LFS wondered if he was dividing. (don't know about that) What about the Xenia. No other critters show any signs that they are having any problems. Thanks for any help you can offer. E. King <Well, I'd certainly keep the anemone in a separate tank until it appears to be recovering...Clean water, good circulation, and lighting should help. Hard to say what was causing this unusual behaviour. The "splitting" theory is as good as anything else... With a little TLC, and some luck, he might just make it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: anemone losing color Thanks for the quick reply full of advice! <my pleasure... and you are not the first person to tell me that I'm full of it> I'm going to move to a daily, smaller feeding of frozen food for the time being. <helpful indeed> I'm also getting all new bulbs...it's been about a year (!) since I changed them. I hadn't realized it had been so long! <yes... easy to do. A shame too that they don't last very long. 6-10 months for fluorescents! Some are reduced to a mere 70% efficacy by the sixth month... amazing and a shame.> I have a floating glass hydrometer which confirmed the crappy plastic reading; is this the type of glass hydrometer that you recommend or is there a better kind I should get? <very fine... good to confirm> I'm planning on doing a 20% water change instead of the regular biweekly/monthly 10% change I usually do. Is this a good idea? <it will help water quality tremendously! 10% every 2-4 weeks is very modest... it allows a lot of organics, fecal matter and noxious compounds to accumulate and concentrate in mere months> I'm a bit ashamed to say that I'm a little clueless on how carbon affects the water quality. <many benefits... here we are talking specifically about it removing discolorants that impede the penetration of light through water that is evidently aged and under already aged/dim bulbs. Be sure not to change/improve all at once for fear of light shocking the anemone even more> Could you point me to an article on your site about carbon use? Please begin here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/filtrant.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/carbonfaqs.htm > Thanks so much for your expertise and this wonderful site. Stella <best regards, Anthony>

Anemone Won't Stay Open... Hello, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today> I have a 60 gallon marine tank. Its been set up for 3 months and is doing alright. I have about 60 lbs of live rock, 1green tip Goniopora, 1 bubble tip anemone, 1 gold striped maroon clown, 1 true percula clown, 1 electric blue damsel, and a 4 inch yellow tang. When I purchased the BTA a month ago he was opened all the way in the store, but ever since I had him he really only opens up when the maroon clown feeds him. The same with my Goniopora, on some days radiant, but mostly he's inside all day. I have 2 48'' strip lights with 2 12'' bulbs in each one. I have 2 actinic blue lights in one and 2 20watt bulbs in the other. My ph 8.4,ammonia .25, nitrites 0,nitrates 10., temp. 83 degrees and salinity at 1.020. I know I need more lighting, what would you prefer? <Okay...Are you sure that you have .25ppm ammonia? There should be no detectable ammonia in an established system! Something is definitely not right here. Do re-check...Revisit your husbandry techniques if this reading is correct. I'll bet that's a big part of why the anemone and coral are not opening. As far as lighting- I'd look into a metal halide or metal halide/VHO combo for this tank. Many good ones to choose from out there! The proper lighting, along with careful maintenance and observation, can go a long way towards helping these animals prosper. Do check the many FAQs on the wetwebmedia.com site regarding maintenance of these animals for more information. Keep studying and learning- you'll see a big improvement in your animal's. You can do it! Good luck!>

Carpet Anemone emergency!!! Hi all!! <cheers> I think the underside of its foot has split open.   <unusual and does not occur spontaneously. If it hasn't moved or been moved lately (2 weeks) then look for a predator (like a crab, nipping dwarf angel of puffer, etc)> I had noticed it move behind some rocks recently and today I tried to see if it was okay and possibly move it to a different area.  Well when I was feeling around, I hadn't tried to move it yet, it seemed as though I was feeling inside it.  I carefully detached it from the bottom and it looked like its inside are coming out the bottom!!   <indeed... mesenterial filaments in defense perhaps. Worse... organ tissue> There is a slime coat that it usually has when has just expelled food from eating or where it attaches at the base, but this looks different.  It reminds me of a dying anemone after it has been sucked in a power head.   <another possibility here is that it was fed food that was too large. Many aquarists make this mistake with whole pieces of shrimp, krill or silversides (fish). Although the animal stings it and draws it in... that doesn't mean that it is appropriate, safe or even smart. Tears occur attempting to digest a whole chunk of food that would never make its way through a water column of fishes on a wild reef naturally. The rule is finely minced foods: 1/4 or smaller ideally> I moved him to corner where I can keep an eye, but I am getting nervous.  Any suggestions.  I don't know what could have caused this since it was moving while still attached under the sand bed. <no worries for now my friend... they can heal rather quickly, sometimes they will propagate (split)... but know that they rot quickly (24 hours for lack of skeletal mass)... and so... no matter how bad it looks, don't give up unless you see it become necrotic at which point remove it immediately. Maintain good water quality and very small feedings in the meantime> Please help, Kim <best regards, Anthony>
Carpet Anemone emergency!!!
So, if it doesn't become necrotic within, ...let's say 48 hours, then I should be somewhat in the "clear"??   <without a guarantee, we can say that after 48 hours... an injured anemone with integrity is in a very hopeful/good position. Most would succumb within that time if they were going to> What I mean is, maybe it is healing if a tear or wound is the case?   <yes... agreed> This morning it has swelled up to it's normal size, but it's foot has still not completely gone under the sand bed like normal. <no worries... all in good time. An excellent behavior. Sounds good> Since I normally on feed once or twice a week, should I keep this regime or increase the times per week and still keep the feedings small?? <under normal conditions several times weekly with small minced foods would be recommended. Almost daily for optimum growth/health if you like. Many small feedings are better than occasional large ones> How about adding anything to the water, aside from water changes? <normal maintenance for now. Perhaps just a little bit of reef iodine if you do not add it already. Small daily doses here too are better than large weekly ones. Iodine is antiseptic, nutritive and improves water quality slightly> Thanks again for the help...Kim <best regards, Anthony>

Not Clowning Around! Dear WWM crew, <Scott F. with you this evening> I got 2 false perculas and a long tentacle anemone from LFS five days ago. One died. He never stopped stressing in my tank and wouldn't eat and died : (. <Sorry to hear that!> Nitrites were a bit high. These are my first fish after cycling with LR for 4? weeks. Nitrites were not high when I got the fish, as the LFS tested the water and confirmed, then sold them to me. <I wish that they wouldn't have sold you the anemone for a brand new tank. Not that you aren't doing a good job-it's just that anemones require excellent, stable conditions and lots of light. Things that are sometimes lacking in new systems. > The anemone is doing great. Eating, was settled for four days and last night went on a trek around the tank... now in the opposite corner. <This is common with anemones. They will often move into a location that suits their needs. The LTA likes a deep sand bed to bury its foot or column in, so keep this in mind.> The clownfish that is still alive seems to be swimming around just fine, but has left the anemone since the other clownfish died. (When I originally put both of them in the tank with the anemone, this clown dove into the anemone and would not leave it, seeming to chase the other clown away. Seems like female clown behavior I have read about, but since her intended "mate" perished, she hasn't been with the anemone at all. She is the only fish in the tank. <Could be a lot of reasons for this> Should I worry about her not eating? I feed brine shrimp (am) and frozen shrimp (pm) and the anemones and crabs seem to enjoy, but clown ignores. She seems to be swimming fine and has ventured throughout the 29 gal tank, but prefers to stay in the area where the anemone was. <I would always be concerned when a fish isn't eating. You may want to try something other than frozen brine shrimp. It actually has little in the way of nutritional value for marine fish (even though they usually love 'em). try frozen Mysis, or finely chopped clam, squid, or other ocean "meats".> Is there a special food I should try? Just wait? Am I worrying for nothing? <No- you are not worrying for nothing. You are doing the right thing by trying to analyze what could be wrong! It's never good when a fish does not eat for extended periods of time. There could be a lot of reasons for this. I'd recommend that you test the water for ammonia and nitrite regularly for a while. There should be no detectable levels of either of these in your tank. Are you performing regular water changes? Is the temperature stable? Does the fish show any obvious signs of disease or discomfort? Take a good hard look at your tank and make sure that everything is in order. In addition to being a lot of fun, observing the tank carefully will allow you to get a feel for what is "normal" for your system, and to take corrective actions, when necessary, in a timely manner. Learn all that you can, get a copy of Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist", which has tons of great information, and use the wetwebmedia.com resources. Make sure that everything is stable before adding any more animals, quarantine all new fish, and feel free to contact us any time. If you follow these simple rules, you'll be fine! Enjoy and Good Luck!> THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND ASSISTANCE! Diane Bedard <And thank YOU for stopping by!>

Carpet Anemone Hi guys and gals, <Hello Kim. How are you doing? What did you think of MACNA?> Yesterday morning I woke to find that my carpet had been slightly sucked onto/into my pump (talk about instant caffeine)! <Ugh!> You are probably wondering why this happened and where was my sponge guard? Well this pump (used to be a return pump that wasn't working hard enough) was in the top portion (not secured well enough I now gather) of my tank and has (had) a slotted cover that pretty much helped in protecting my fish, but unfortunately while I was sleeping my pump fell to the bottom of the tank. <This happens fairly often. One of the reasons why Anthony and, more and more, I hate powerheads in tanks. Excess heat, possibly killing invertebrates that climb too close to unprotected intakes, occasionally falling down from suction cups that don't stick and blowing sand all over the place, and even more possible problems that I cannot think of right now.> This wouldn't have been a problem if my carpet hadn't decide to move into the same area the night the pump fell. <Murphy's Law> Luckily this guy has a lot of mass so the part that got stuck didn't get far and the main body of the anemone wasn't harmed. He's a fighter! The pump is no longer in use until I can adapt a sponge to it and get a better secure spot for it. I know this event can be pretty traumatic even if they aren't chopped up by an impeller, but it seems to be recovering really well. He is opening up back to original size <A very good sign> and the clowns seem to be trying to nurse it back to health. So anyway, last night I noticed a milky, white substance (it looked like milk) flowing out of the mouth of the anemone for about 30 minutes, which was fluttered away by the clown. I was concerned that this was a delayed reaction to the night before, possibly some toxins or waste, but when I woke this morning, everything was fine in the tank (meaning no fish or inverts were dying of apparent ammonia or toxin poisoning, let alone there was no cloudiness or visual signs of trouble. So, I was wondering what you might think this was? <I do not really know. It almost sounds like a reproductive event, but not likely.> I don't recall ever seeing this happen before, but then again, it happened for such a short while that it is possible I have never noticed before. Was this just a way to remove waste, or a reaction to the stress? <It could be either or an unrelated event.> Also, is there anything care-wise that I can do to aid in the carpet's rehabilitation aside from water changes? <I would feed a little heavier, but nothing too large. I would also use some iodine. Dose as per manufacturer's recommendations.> Food? Lighting change, or lack there of? <I would maintain stability, that would include lighting.> Thanks, Kim <Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Re: sea anemone  hi  <cheers, Marc!>  I have an odd situation going on with my large solitary cloning variety rose bubble-tipped anemone which appears to be healthy. it eats when fed and will expand by day and contract at night yet over the past month it has been dropping tentacles at @ 1- 2 a day followed by days when it does not lose any . To look at the anemone it seems o.k. the lost tentacles are not even missed , it almost looks as if they are being replaced by new ones although I can not be sure as the smaller ones may just be contracted but perhaps not because they are shaped and lack the "flat tire deflated look" . <understood.. I have seen this before. Not uncommon at all. Not clearly understood either. Often ascribed to allelopathic duress (chemical poisoning of the self or from other cnidarians in the display)> the dropped tentacles are all intact and usually somewhat inflated looking and look to have had a tunicate tied around the base ( point of detachment ) . The anemone does not appear to be torn& or show scaring . The tank does contain H. crispa which is fine and has a A. nigripes clownfish which would not use the E. quadricolor when I isolated the H. crispa in a basket at the other end of the six foot long aquarium ( 72"x18"x18" ) . when I had met you in Lancaster at the that fish place seminar we discussed my system and you recommended that I remove the H .crispa as the E . quad. may eventually kill it could this or the opposite be what is happening ?  <I would have to agree that it is possible. At the very least the anemone seems to be responding to the presence of its competitor by sending our aggressive noxious aborted tentacles (powerful stinging "weapons" sent out into the drift upon the sensation of a competitive neighbor)> I have read of other's who keep the two together ( the latest being an article in f.a.m.a. on bubble tips and another on the web . )  <not exactly, my friend... while it is true that many people do mix species together for a year or two... it is extremely rare to find someone that succeeds in doing it for more than two years. And are you/we willing to play the odds that you will be the one person in a hundred that succeeds while 99 others own dead anemones <G>? Ha!> The only other fish is a springeri Pseudochromis . It would not appear to be a predator as the dropped tentacles do not get consumed by anything , not even by the small bristle worms .  <understood and agreed... they are noxious and potent for having been imparted with stinging mechanisms.. a defensive strategy most likely>  Someone had suggested that this may be a normal part of E. quad's lifecycle.  <I strongly disagree... few reef animals abort viable tissue on a nutrient starved reef. They only abort when necessary (necrosis, defense, reproduction)... the contrary is RARE. If the tissue was unnecessary it would likely be reabsorbed or eaten (as arthropods do with molts). >  The only thing different to my set-up since we met and before this started was that I reassumed use of the protein skimmer and add another 2-2.5" of sand ( @ 4.5" total depth.  <both excellent moves :) >  Thanks for the sand tip I found it packaged as Caribbean play sand.  <quite welcome!>  Every thing else in the tank is doing fine ( tank does not contain soft corals ) . I am wondering what you think , any info would be of interest . thanks  <indeed... the tank is maturing and noxious compounds accumulate inevitably. Any way you slice it, it sounds defensive to me. Have you noticed that the people that acknowledge shedding of tentacles from anemones commonly (always!) have other anemones or aggressive corals in the tank ;) There's a common thread here <G>. I'd pull one anemone on the assumption and for the greater good of both and watch to see if the shedding doesn't slow down or stop. Do extra water changes and skim/carbon to dilute the noxious elements. I'll be back at That Fish Place (Lancaster) April 6th by the way! Best regards, Anthony>

Anemone Hi, Is it good news when your anemone splits his tentacles and gets more or newer ones from it? <Hi Jerry! Hmmm, sounds like he's growing. As long as he's looking good, eating and growing then I wouldn't worry. Craig>
<Hi Jerry,>  I guess the Condylactis' are rip offs since every site I read says they only live 1 year. I wonder why? When he dies I think my best bet is a quadricolor. <Hey, don't give up yet, yours appears to be growing and you obviously like it, so keep working on it! It is very unfortunate that some pet and fish stores sell these to customers that aren't prepared. This is true for many aquarium inhabitants. For a hardier anemone a Bubble Tip clone is a great choice. All anemones do better in well established tanks with stable conditions. Enjoy your Condy, Jerry! Craig>

LT anemone Hey guys, I have a question regarding my LT anemone. I have had it for about 6 months and it has been doing very well, in fact it has almost doubled in size. The problem that I am having started a few weeks ago, when it started moving to the back of the aquarium in a rather shady spot. I left it alone for awhile until I started noticing it becoming smaller and losing its color in some of its tentacles. I moved it back to the original spot it had been for 5 months, it started getting its color back in the tentacles that were turning white. Next thing I know it has now moved again to the back of the tank. What can I do?? I have read so many times that you should just let them move to wherever they want, but I have a feeling that it will just decline in health if it stays back there. 90 gallon 6x65 PC lighting 4 Clarki clowns 80 pounds of live rock all parameters are good! Thanks for the help Derrick <They usually get that rambling fever when they are not happy with their current spot. Are your bulbs getting old, dusty, or salty? Are you running carbon in the tank, it maybe time for a change. Has the water current changed at all? Your best bet is to continue feeding it, make sure you are running fresh carbon, there is plenty of current and your lighting is still producing like it should. The anemone knows what is best for itself and will settle in a spot where it is happiest. Best Regards, Gage>

Disaster from the beginning (anemone et al. troubles) Dear Bob , <<Hi Breanda, Let's see if we can't save your tank and your sanity. It won't be easy, but let's salvage what we can and go from there.>> I'm new to this site, it's late and I just got home from work. I don't know if I am supposed to write to you or what. Even if you answer me I will not know where to look for the answer. Let me tell you something about my 55gal tank I bought at Wal-Mart a year ago. I have had nothing but trouble from the start mostly death for the first few months then things started to do good life was going on corals were starting to do very well. and the fish also. Then it was the algae. I got through that, then it was the saltwater ick. I used a product that said it was reef safe, but they lied I lost almost everything. <<Yes, unfortunately common. The ONLY way is a quarantine tank to avoid introducing problems>> Hundreds of dollars. I'm not rich I live pay to pay. A little extra to go somewhere or to dinner. Well this latest disaster after having the tank for a year was caused by a bubble-tip anemone medium size. He died. I woke up one morning last week and the tank looked like the fog from London settled in my tank so I did a water change. Left the fish in there because I had other anemones die on me, but nothing like this. It's been a week and3 partial water changes on half the tank and 5 total water changes and I'm still getting extremely high ammonia readings. I did move a beautiful piece of organ pipe coral to the 10gallon seahorse tank and a Koran ,yellow tang that now has pop eyes and red around it's mouth, 2 percula clowns died in the big tank , gobies angle fish live rock, feather dusters, mushroom corals. I had to move all these things to another tank because of all the ammonia in the big one. I can't get rid of the ammonia no matter what water changes, prime, ammo lock, put in bacteria vital also added precluded filter media nothing is getting rid of the ammonia and more and more fish are dying and all my corals are dead. When I went to the tank today and saw the coral beauty dead he looked like some kind of a slime was coming off his body, but he was fine last night he even ate these fish were all taken out of the 55 gallon and put into the 10 gallon tank and that tank's readings are good) I lost it I started crying and I'm not the crying type. I just spent a little over 200 dollars in different kinds of chemicals to get rid of the ammonia, but nothing is working. Could it possible be the live sand holding the ammonia level this high . I did get out the dead worms at least the ones I could find. Please I need all the help I can get. I don't know what else to do.  <<Alright, from what I read your BTA crashed your incapacity and killed enough of your inhabitants that their decomposing is feeding your ammonia, soon to be nitrite. You need to tear this tank down enough to find and remove all of the dead inhabitants, some of which I'm sure are in the rock work, sand, etc. The rock and sand is either overwhelmed or crashed, so I would recycle the tank as if new. This means you need to move and maintain everyone that survived in another tank. 10 gallons sounds like a small tank for this job, so I suggest something inexpensive like a Rubbermaid container to hold, heat, light and circulate, filter and skim your living stuff. Please test this water at least every two days for ammonia/nitrite and make changes to keep it under control. Get all of the dead matter out of your 55 and treat it like it's new, testing for 0 ammonia and nitrite and the presence of nitrate will indicate you can *slowly* re-establish your 55. You will need your fully equipped 10 gallon to *slowly* make the switch unless you can afford another heater and some circulation for the temporary Rubbermaid tank. I would buy a heater and maybe borrow a powerhead or two from the 55 during the switch. The trick is to maintain good conditions in both the 55 which will be cycling, and the Rubbermaid, which needs the same equipment/conditions. The Rubbermaid will be accumulating the same waste as the 55, so test, test, test, and make water changes to control it.>>  I better go now it's really late it's after 2am and I'm getting tear drops no my keyboard. here is my e-mail address maybe you can tell me where to look for the answer.  my name is Brenda Thank you for at lease listening to my story. <<I'm really sorry you have had such a hard time, hopefully in time you will be able to look back at this as a learning experience. I strongly recommend you purchase a really good book or two to help you in stocking your tank with easier to keep inhabitants that are less toxic. I don't recommend anemones as they are demanding, toxic, require pristine water and move about if these conditions aren't met. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm   <<Best of luck, Craig>>

Advice needed. (Anemone Health troubles) Great website! Tons of information and good advice. I am in need of some of that advice. I set up a saltwater tank back in May. The setup is as follows: 55 gallon tank; bio-filter; skimmer; pc SmartLite with 65 watt daylight and 65 watt actinic; 35 lbs. live rock; live sand substrate; and 1 small powerhead. The water parameters are: ph 8.2; ammonia 0; nitrate 0; nitrite 0; phosphate .1 to .2; salinity 1.024; calcium approx. 300; alkalinity is high (test kit has low, med, high); temperature 78 degrees; 10% water change every 3-4 weeks; add a teaspoon of Phytoplex, reef complete and reef plus every week. The inhabitants are 3 fish, 3 blue-legged hermit crabs, 6 red-legged hermit crabs, 2 turbo snails, cleaner shrimp, green star polyp, e. quadricolor (bubble-tip) anemone. The problems I am having may or may not be related, but I am searching for a cause and solution. First and foremost is a problem with the anemone. I purchased him exactly 2 months ago and he has seemed to be in decline ever since. At the time of purchase he was gorgeous (full and green/rose colored). The first few days he ejected (for lack of a better word) a red stringy-like substance. The LFS said that was normal. But gradually he started hiding more and more and staying "deflated" behind the rocks. Now I hardly see him. Once every week or so, he does come out and move around the entire tank but seems to wind up back behind the rocks. He seems to do this wandering when the lights are out as if he doesn't like the lights. Even when he is on the move, he doesn't inflate as large as he had and he is a very light-green color. Any thoughts? My second problem is with the green star polyp. It is in decline. When purchased it covered an entire small rock. It seems to have died back to cover only about 70% of that rock. I started it out on the bottom of the tank, but since it was in decline I moved it higher up on the rocks. This doesn't seem to have change anything. As a matter of fact, it seems to open less fully than in the past. What do you think? My last question (sorry to bombard you) has to do with red slime algae. It started a couple of months ago and began to spread rapidly. The LFS sold me a phosphate filter (although my phos. levels seem under control) and erythromycin. I used these after I removed some of the sand that the algae was growing on. The algae continues to come back, slowly at first. I have been removing sand during routine water changes to physically remove the algae hoping to slow its progress. Any suggestions? I used to run the lights for 11 hours a day, but cut this back recently to 9 hours in hopes of slowing the growth of this algae. Sorry for going so long, but I wanted to see if these were related issues or separate unto themselves. The 3 original fish seem to be doing well, as do the shrimp and crabs, although I have lost 3 turbo snails (strange - about 1 month apart) over the past 3 months. The coralline algae that I have on some of the rocks doesn't seem to have spread since the tank was setup and in fact may have declined somewhat. Is there something that my tank is lacking? Any advice you have would be deeply appreciated. <Alright, much to do. I will make my observations and suggest you research your anemone at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Your anemone is moving and sick because it doesn't have sufficient light, feeding or circulation. Your calcium is low and alkalinity needs to be measured more accurately. (350-400 calcium and 3.5-5 meq/L alkalinity) You could probably use more rock in a 55, but this is minor and not germane to your BTA's troubles. BTA's will stay put and not move if they are happy. They should be expanded to full size except for various small periods where they process waste, eat, etc. and deflate some. This is normal for short periods. As long as they have good color, proper lighting (3-5 watts high intensity lighting per gallon) and feeding (every other day...see web site) then they tend to do well. I would also advise investing in high quality test kits, they are worth the expense in saved livestock and optimum conditions. Star polyps need sufficient calcium and alkalinity to do well.> Good luck,

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