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FAQs on Anemone Health 12

FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone Disease 1, Anemone Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3, Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis Disease, Sebae Disease, LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs, Cnidarians, Dyed Anemones,

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Selection, Anemone Placement, Anemone Feeding, Anemone Systems, Anemone Lighting,

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

I need your expertise; Heteractis magnifica      4/8/20
Hello team! I have been a frequent visitor of your site for years and truly enjoy your articles and books. I have had reef aquariums off and on well over 10 years. I’m fascinated by the clown fish and anemone relationship, and I have successful kept bubble tips anemone for years and have ventured into the infamous Magnificent Sea Anemone. I know they don’t ship well and the one I received had to be treated, which I believe I have done successfully. My questions are:
1. How will I know if and when the animal has settled? (It hasn’t moved since it was placed in the tank where it receives average par of 380 -400 with peaks of 450. ( 240 gallon display tank lit by 4 Orphek Alantik V4 gen 2 and two Kessil A360X)
<Not moving is a good sign for this and other anemone species; and the clownfish settling in (not avoiding) the host>
2. It has lost a little of its color since its Cipro treatment, how long does it take to get that back? (Pix attached)
<Hopefully within a few weeks... I might (over)dose your supplementing of iodide/ate... with testing.>
3. Should I feed it at this time? I know when I have fed it in the past its tentacles deflate for a few hours? Not sure if this is normal or a bad sign? (In contrast my bubble tip anemones appear to get bigger after feeding)
<Yes; I would feed two, three times per week... "test" some food and if it is sticking, go forward with more>
4. Finally the mag has been in my tank since 03/17/2020. I receive it on 03/7, it started treatment on 03/08 (Went through cycles of deflating and inflating) and back in the aquarium 03/17 (No longer does it deflate or flatten out, however it does appear to shrink a little at night?)
<Yes; this is natural. Not to worry>
Thanks for your time, I look forward to your response.
Video <https://photos.app.goo.gl/5cAJkD4JJHdCoqD4A >  of aquarium mag is on the right
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Rock Flower Anemone, Phymanthus/Epicystis crucifer hlth.       8/24/18
Hi Crew!
<Hey Danilo>
I purchased a RFA (the orange one in pics) about 10 days ago, and I noticed it wasn’t sticky or eating like my established one. Upon further inspection I saw it’s foot was pinkish with blotchy red, covered with lots of mucous, and appeared to have a small tear. Even worse, some of his mesenterial filaments seem to be protruding from the bottom. ��
<Ah yes; a torn pedal disc; tearing at the base; a common issue w/ especially wild-collected, but includes carelessly extracted captive specimens.>
I was surprised he look so well on his top part especially since I already had him for 9 days at that point! I know that RFAs notoriously die with any foot complications, despite iodine dips, revive baths, etc... Again that’s why I was surprised he even lasted this long.
<Mmm; well... the tearing likely occurred ahead of your acquisition. A note re "cold" vs. "warm" blooded animals; often such damage, loss of health is a while... days, weeks in showing up, compared with mammals, birds....>
Anyway, I didn’t want to just give up, and I also did not want to risk trying methods that have not yielded any solid results, so I am experimenting with Methylene blue. It has been highly effective as a prophylactic bath for my fish and acclaimed as being so safe it could be used even for inverts, so I figured I’d try to give my RFA daily baths.
<Sounds good. As you state, well-worth a try, trialing>
He certainly doesn’t seem to react very negatively to the baths, besides his mouth opening a little upon reentry into the display. I know he must absorb some Methylene blue so I only dip him in a cup of display water with only 2 drops, so hopefully anything expelled into tank isn’t very significant—should I run a Polyfilter while this is going on?
<I'd run the PolyFilter after administering, every few days... for several hours, then remove it and replenish the Methylene Blue; as the resins in this fine product will remove the Methylene Blue>
He’s usually in the bath 5 minutes. I’m on my third day of treatment.
Today his foot was significantly less mucous covered and the degeneration of the foot seems to have at least halted, but it is still pink and I can still see maybe a pencil eraser sized bit of mesenterial filaments—an improvement although still not in the clear. I do the “highly scientific” sniff test to help make sure he’s hanging in there too, as I know it’s a bit early to even make a prognosis.
<Okay; appears alive to me>
Well, I wanted to share in case this proves to be successful. I wasn’t sure if you had any insight in using Methylene blue for RFAs, if I should treat more, or if my efforts may be futile...?
<I do not know; but have read about, used literally gallons of Methylene Blue over decades of time in the trade. Is a very safe, and quite effective general anti- and fungi-cide, bacterio-cide, -static... Is a useful "converter of hemoglobin", even injected into humans at times/places. Look it up.>
It’s a 28g nano, nitrates and phos undetectable (working on raising that), dkh 9.3, cal 415, Mag 1350, temp avg 82, random turbulent flow from my gyre, and spg 1.025. Tank has no chem filtrants but does have a Aquamaxx hob 1.5.
<Thank you for sharing. Please do keep us informed of your further work, observations.
Bob Fenner>

I'd keep separated

Anemone Question for Bob       2/8/18
Hi Bob,
<Hey Nishad>
Hope all is well in your world. One of my large anemones exhibited some odd behavior...thought you may have some ideas on it. Please see attached pictures.
Thanks so much...Nish
<Yeah; have seen this sort of expression on occasion; and heard/read various theories advanced as cause/s. I urge the usual checking re water quality issues, perhaps a double/triple dosing (one time) of iodide, the addition of a few grams of simple sugar (glucose best) and nothing else. In most all cases this "bubbliness" solves itself in days to a couple weeks.
Bob Fenner>


Attn, Bob... Report: Dyed "Sherman Rose" BTA!     6/28/17
Hey ya'll, Sean Morris, down here at Acadian Mariculture (what I am now calling my marine breeding operation, hehe)...I was trying to make my true perc broodstock happy because my last two clutches weren't... well.. alive
for long...and so my LFS who I do a LOT of business with, had these beautiful "Sherman rose anemones" ... purple disk, dark brown base, pink tentacles no green showing at all. I recently recovered a bleached gbta from
there, so my water quality isn't a problem... again... I breed true percs.So my wife bought one... and it hasn't been doing well (thought it was due to quick acclimation)... so I went and bought another... did a 3 hour acclimation... brought it home in an ice chest...bought two gbtas with it...-I want my mama percula to imprint on rose and regular so the babies will take to both. at least that was my plan-Well... today, after waking up to the three new anemones looking perfectly happy... ... this first Sherman is still showing the same symptoms:-tentacles sticking together, sticking to algae, bacteria.-overly frequent defecation of body-colored bits.-enarging at night with mouth open-color fading, turning white in some spots, brown in others-as sensitive to hands in the tank as a ritteri(whereas most btas, you can touch and they don't care, this one shrivels when I pull have a finger in without vinegar soaking, and even then, its only a matter of time)-and now, today... a green tentacle. just the one?
<Mmm; they can/do change color/s at times>
A single green nub, surrounded by pink and purple... cant really see it well in the photo, but I tried. one green tentacle...for now...but the bleached areas seem to be showing a little green, as well.i will more closely document the progress of the other, formerly identical, specimen, and post progress on my YouTube channel, The Lost Begotten. Feel free to check it out ;)-also filming an ultimate anemone guide series, so you may find that helpful.
<Oh yes; my pitch/presentation this year (August) at MACNA is titled Captive Anemone Use. Do make it known when and where this is posted>
In addition to my 30yrs exp, this past weeks panic has made me update my research-base, and I feel like I've got some complete info that needs sharing. For now, I had to let you all know about this, apparently, dyed RBTA... makes me wonder if Sherman's are all dyed. It would be sad, but not surprising, if con-artistry had become so elaborate.
<I don't know re Sherman... some folks postings on the Net speculate they might be.>
Welcome to Trumpland.Thanks again for all your helpful info. Peace-Sean Morris (Baton Rouge, La)
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Rock flower nems     3/18/17
Hey guys how has it been.
<Fine Tom; thanks>
Have a quick one about some rock flower nems that we have been getting and shipping in. We are having a large number melting the second or third day in. Cal 440, Mag 1350, alk 8 no3 5. They seem to be expelling a large
amount of why looks like green brown stringy material almost like a small hay.
<Mmm; trouble>

They are still solid feeling when introduced to the system.
<Alive up till then likely>
Could they have an issue with the substrate ?
<Doubtful... something/s else. Are they shipped one to the bag? Are their pedicles intact; i.e., not torn?>
We acclimate them with :30 float and :30 drip.
<I'd be dosing (over; like three plus times) with iodide-ate and lowering the spg of the acclim. water a thousandth or two>

Have kicked around putting them in a bare bottom and doing water changes ever hour till they quit expelling that material.
What chemicals can be used to help with these issues
<As above... plus poss. a simple/hexose sugar... as detailed by Hans Hass decades back and myself in recent ones>
Thanks again
Tom smith
Aquascape Chicago
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rock flower nems     3/18/17

<Can't read this>
Re: Rock flower nems     3/18/17

Sorry about that
The nems all looked in tack in the bags and were shipped 5 per med sized bag.
<Mmm; I'd only ship one per... ALWAYS>

Just found the writing on the simple sugar treatment
What type is sugar works
Corn syrup
Simple cheap white ?
<Glucose is best... look for this at the supermarket for folks that do canning. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
This is that material I was trying to explain
<Bizarre Tom... looks like some sort of polypoid life, but what? Do you have other images; showing tentacles, mouths? Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
Semi gaping
<These Phymanthus crucifer are looking MUCH better. I would keep running chemical filtrants (PolyFilter and ChemiPure) at double, and checking ORP as THE indicator of water quality. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rock flower nems        3/22/17
sorry but have no ChemiPure but have gfo
<Remove the Ferrous. Chemoautotrophs NEED HPO4>

and carbon. also have a good size skimmer running currently and have been doing a 25% water change daily just to keep it clean and the " stuff" cleared off any that are still ejecting it. should i still keep up with the simple sugar and iodide treatment?
<Yes. B>

EMERGENCY: Ritteri Anemone      8/31/16
Hello Crew-
I went and bought a Ritteri Anemone recently.
<Hope you studied....>

I put it in the tank, and it immediately adjusted to the new environment.
No problems at all. It eventually adhered itself to the glass of the tank.
That's when I noticed that the foot was damaged
<Very common problem leading to death>
and it's insides were showing. That white stringy stuff?
<Mesenterial this and that>

Anyway, it kept getting worse, and the half of the anemone was deflated.
Now, as I am getting home from school, I notice that it is no longer on the glass, but on the sand in a pile. Not inflated at all now. I triple tested my water, and it all looks fine.
<Not for long>
Everything else in the tank is thriving. I don't think the anemone is going to make it,
and I am going to pull it out as soon as it starts to smell and decay.
<I'd do that now>

If you have any suggestions on what to do with the anemone, please let me know ASAP. I need to know how to proceed. Photo is attached.
Gabe Walsh
<The aforementioned reading re the species on WWM:
and the linked files above; or my book (see Amazon) on Anemones and their use in aquariums. Bob Fenner>

question regarding bubble tip anemone         7/28/16
I am writing in order to see if I could get some guidance/help regarding mi bubble tip anemone.
I currently have a Boyu TL550, 130 lt, saltwater aquarium.
I placed my E. quadricolor 3.5 months ago, and for the first 2 months she did great (I am attaching a picture from when she looked healthy).
Since 3-4 weeks ago, the anemone has progressively lost her ''bubbliness'', and the tentacles have ''shriveled'' and look flaccid and ''thin''. The colour has also changed; from a bright orange, to a darker orange-brown and some sectors even look greenish. 1-2 weeks ago the anemone decided to close (similar as when lights are off), and has decided to stay like this for days. Today, she opened, but after 2 days of being closed. I have two
Ocellaris clownfish, the female resided in the anemone, the male resided in an Euphyllia.
<Aye ya... here's some trouble>

Now they have both moved to the Euphyllia, however the female goes back to the anemone any time she exposes her tentacles.
I have never fed the anemone, except for 2 weeks ago (she was already looking shady) with a mix of brine shrimp and saltwater and squirted it; there was no change.
<Needs to be fed two, three times a week>

I have checked my parameters, temp is 24-25 C, pH 7.9-8.1, density 1.021-1.023
<S/b 1.025-6>

(they are pretty steady). I recently got more parameters, and the only parameter that was not right was nitrate (20 ppm). Nitrite, ammonia, phosphate, calcium, dKH were ok.
<? Meaningless w/o actual data, numbers>
The rest of the aquarium looks fine (other residents are Rhodactis, Kenya tree, Parazoanthus gracilis, 2 Ocellaris, Sixline wrasse yellow watchman  goby, Salarias fasciatus, 3 hermit crabs, 3 snails, 1 Lysmata amboinensis).
If you could guide me in this issue I would be most appreciative.
<Well; as stated above; the Euphyllia is winning here, the Entacmaea losing (allopathically); this animal is starved, and the environment? Did you review BTA Health on WWM? All this is gone over and over... As are suggestions for improving the situation... moving the Caryophylliid or Actinarian (they need to be in sep. systems); foods/feeding... and
improving the animal's world. Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much!

Help with Anemone and Algae. Moved sm. sys., cascade event      7/1/16
<Eight megs... is there a full moon? Why are folks sending such huge files?>
Hi there. I need help...About 1.5 months ago I moved to from San Francisco to Monterey for a job, and moved my 24 gallon reef tank for the second time in 2 years. My tank has been established since Oct. 2013, and has been thriving up until this move.
During move I followed the same protocols I used when moving two years ago (which was successful), which were the following: Placed biggest piece of live rock in bucket with airstone and heater along with all non-coral animals. Placed all other live rock and corals in a Styrofoam cooler in water. Emptied tank nearly all of the way, leaving 1/4" of water above the live-sand. I was able to plug heater and airstone into electricity with adapter in my truck. Drive 2 hrs, set up tank, all seemed fine until 2 weeks later...
Fast forward two weeks and I started to get brown slimy/hairy algae on sand, rocks, back walls etc.
<I see this... likely a release of nutrient/s... loss of RedOx/ORP... alkaline reserve in your substrate
I would siphon out as much as I could during water changes, revealing nice white sand under the brown scum, but it
comes back after a few days. At the time of my move I also switched to Reef Crystals from Instant Ocean for salt mix, and also purchased an under-sink RO system. Where it got weird is when my normally super-happy bubble tip anemone spawned, probably 1 month into the move. A big blob of eggs were released from her (I guess it is a she) mouth. I netted as many of them as I could. Ever since that spawn-night, the anemone has been small, deflated and wandering. It slides from one spot to another night after night, and never inflates to its previous 8-10" size. I realize that I might have
stirred up gunk in my 2-3 year old live sand during move,
but wouldn't I see a noticeable uptick in nitrates? The tap water here smells very chlorine-y also, but shouldn't my RO system be filtering bad stuff out?
<It should... and you likely have a carbon contactor pre-filter. You could test for free chlorine...>
My underlying question is; what could be simultaneously causing this algae outbreak and also stressing the anemone?
<The gunk stirred up in your old substrate; subsequent allelopathy with your other Cnidarians...>
Are there additional tests I can run to find out?
<Sure; HPO4, NO3, K....>

Here are some details about my tank: As mentioned 24 gallons, all-in-one setup with Tunze 9002 protein skimmer, heater, power head, and bag of MarineLand activated carbon dropped in back chamber every couple months.
Livestock: percula clown, royal gramma, Longnose Hawkfish, Banggai cardinal. A couple hermits, a couple turban snails, 1 fighting conch, 1 tuxedo urchin, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp. Soft corals (Christmas tree, various mushrooms, Zoas, leather), a few LPS (plate coral, hammer, torch, war coral).
Levels: Nitrates, ammonia, nitrites all "0"
<Really? NO NO3? I'd check with another kit
, pH 8.1, temp 78. I can measure for calcium and dKH but generally don't. I used to dose iron but don't anymore.
<I would, and iodide-ate... I might skip ahead and dump the entire existing substrate and replace first>
I have attached pictures of the algae (I think it is either dinoflagellates or cyanobacteria),
<Likely... need a 'scope look and see>
and am desperate for a concrete way to put a stop to it.
I have also attached a picture of the anemone spawn, and anem pics before and after move. Let me know if you need additional info to assess the problem.
Thanks in advance for your attention on this.
<Try searching, reading on WWM re these algae groups control. Bob Fenner>


Re: Help with Anemone and Algae      7/1/16
Apologies. I thought the pics were small enough, thanks for responding anyway. I will replace my sandbed...are you able to make a recommendation on live sand?
the linked files at top>

And yes, I have tested "0" Nitrate for the past year and a half...I just figured my bioload was low enough or that I had a super effective bio filter. I will get a new kit.
Thanks again.

Anemone -?Splitting vs. Dying?; Open foot; Smoking       3/31/16
Bought this anemone on Friday.
<No image attached>
I noticed sand/shell/"squigglies" on the
foot when in the bag, but (embarrassingly) didn't give it much attention.
<Two mis-takes>
He appeared to live happily at his original spot in our tank with minor movement by foot (& some "pooping" - yep, poop - removed from tank & could tell by smell). He was there (with some open mouth during pooping) until
Monday, when we found him somewhat deflated & having floated to the back of the tank. We figured he was just looking for a new home. Seeing as how we didn't want him to decide on the back of the tank, I gently floated him to
another area (closer up front) Monday night. His mouth swelled some occasionally, but then back to normal. Today (Tuesday AM), he was still there but on his side - giving me a better look at his foot. The center appears open to mesentery(?). [Ugh - That's when I realized it'd been there from the beginning - poking between the rocks/sand. If it's an injury, then it happened when the LFS staff pulled him from the tank where he was at the base of LR.]
Here's the real kicker: To make matters worse, later in the day it started expelling smoky poofs... from the hole in it's foot! I got totally spooked & pulled it from the tank. It's in a simple container right now & I'm doing frequent water replacements from the main tank water.
The hole in the foot has "clean" almost-symmetric edging....?? Hm, is this some spawning/splitting thing happening?
<Dying; decomposing>

He's pretty big (at full size:
foot ~2-3" & head/tents ~6"+)... but I have trouble imagining anything good when something's coming out the FOOT instead of the mouth.
Help! Is there a way to save him? Or, is he splitting & I'm fearful out of ignorance of this process? Thanks in advance for ANY insight.
<.... we've seen this over and over. READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemhlthf8.htm
"and the linked files above" (sing it like the jingle it is)
PS - General parameters good.
pH 8.1; kH 9; Ca 400; T 77F; SG 1.023; NO2 0; NO3 < 2; PO4 = 0.
Fish, crab, snails, corals, etc are all doing well.
Also, LFS said they'd take him back & exchange him,
<IF this is practical; DO SO... ASAP. Will die, dissolve here... be ready to remove, siphon out otherwise>
but they are > 1hr  away. Not an option right now, so I'm trying to treat or care for him as best I can.
​<Oh, here's that pic link>
​​<Don't think I can upload in Cozumel.... but can see... doomed>
​<The reading; stat. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone -?Splitting vs. Dying?; Open foot; Smoking       4/2/16

Thank you Bob.
He did die late that night as expected.
I appreciate your response.
Take care,
<Ah Lor; welcome. In my longish life have seen many thousands of large actinarians lost for torn pedicles (along w/ other traumas, mis-placement....). So much so that I've penned/placed a small book re their selection, captive care (on direct to print and e-... svc.s on Amazon.com). Your experience is the usual one. Bob Fenner>

Bubble tip & clone.... anemone incomp.     2/22/16
220 Reef tank. Kessil 360 W lights .1025 sal.
<Move the decimal place over one>
Good parameters light bio load on fish. I had a Sebae anemone in the tank with 1 rose bubble tip. All things fine. Doing 30 gallon water changes every 3-4 weeks. The bubble tip spit about a month after I brought it home.
The clone located just a few inches away. About a month ago the Sebae started to look less than it should have so it was moved to a separate system.
Seems to be recovering. The bubble tips were doing fine till a few days ago when the clone appeared to be irritated by the tentacles of its sister
<Shouldn't be>
and after a couple of days moved away into a crevice and is shriveled up.
This should not have happened but it had the appearance of such . The other bubble tip is looking like business as usual.
I think my problems may have started when about 3-4 weeks ago I introduced 2 small mini carpet anemones.
<Aye ya... poor mixers. SEE, as in read on WWM re mixing Actinarians... NOT a good idea>

I have removed one that was easily taken but the remaining one about 2.5 inches across is too well attached so for now it will remain and I am going to run some carbon.
<Good; worthwhile>
There is a fairly sizeable Toadstool coral in the tank also but about 2.5 feet from the bubble tips however I'm running a Tunze Wave box so the circulation may be getting an issue with chemical war fare going which is what I suspect.
<Yes; likely>
Yeah I know corals and anemones do not mix but I thought the size of the system would help to dilute such issues.
<Does help; but need to acclimate/introduce the parties via isolation/quarantine... As I've written and given presentations re over and over>
I did have a devils hand leather coral in the system early on and had to move it but that was long before the bubble tips
Comments from the crew for anything I may have missed other than not doing my due diligence on compatibility.
Mike Murphy
<Not much more I can/will state than is archived, search-able on WWM. Bob Fenner>

bleached anemones and lighting... Nine megs of pix; photography-revelation      1/28/15
Hey guys, just wanted to send a quick note to you guys and thank you for your website. I recently ran into an issue however and wanted to share my experience. So first off some background about my tank.
125 gallon Reef Ready custom tank and stand with built in dual stand overflow and a 50 gallon sump/refugium Orbital Current LED lighting with Ramp controller Two Hydor Koralia power heads, a 3 and a 4 Reef octopus XP3000 Skimmer PH 8.0Salinity 1.025Ammonia, nitrites, nitrate, all 0 ppm
<Essential nutrient>
100lbs liverock various fish RBTA
I had just recently purchased a RBTA for my tank and when it arrived it was very very small. Less than an inch across fully extended. After doing the  normal acclimation process for it and placing it in the tank on the liverock. It chose a comfy spot about three inches from where I placed it and settled in. It has been in my tank for about two weeks now and has opened up and was showing great signs of health. Eating well, lots of tentacle movement and extension, the whole bit. I started to get worried when it seemed like it looked a little pale in my tank. I wasn't sure how long it really looked that way maybe from the moment I placed it in the tank. So I started doing research on bleached anemones. Paid very close attention to pictures of what that looked like, and asked advice from a few people on local reefing forums here in my area. I worked myself into a frenzy over this idea that my anemone was bleached and I needed to do something about it and keep vigilant with feeding and other recommended steps to nurse it back to health. I had taken a picture of the anemone and sent it to a few people and all agreed that my anemone looked bleached and this was a critical time. The first picture is what I sent, and received confirmation of a bleached anemone diagnosis from several "experts". For more than three days I wracked my brain over my bad luck. Including right up until an hour or so before writing this note. Then it dawned on me...
The camera I had been using had the flash turned off from the last time I used it. I turned it back on and took another picture of it with the blue turned down to 10%. The second picture shows the actual anemones coloration and overall health. The blue and white mix lighting each at 100% was playing games with my camera's color saturation and was skewing my viewpoint of the anemone, and apparently everyone else's as well.
<Well; photography... is... about controlling light>
So there really never was anything wrong with my anemone at all. I allowed myself to be fooled by the camera and my own eyes inability to properly discern the anemones true coloration due to the over saturation of certain wavelengths of light being emitted by the blue in my lighting.
So long story short.... Lesson learned. Just thought I would pass this information along and hope that it helps someone else to properly diagnose whether an anemone is actually bleached or not. Never trust a single picture and sometimes even your own eyes to give accurate information. I see tons of pictures of bleached anemones online all the time, now the
first question I will ask if I am ever trying to help is, was the flash on your camera turned on when you took the picture? What percentage of blue was your lighting set to when the picture was taken.
<You've "traded" (filtered, screened) one part (bandwidth) of visible EMR for another...>
Have a great day... Keep up the good work with the site.
Steve McQueen
<Still bleached, but thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Green side on bubble tip anemone      12/18/14
<Hello Frank>
I have a quick question about a green bubble tip anemone that was sold to me by the lfs.
I never seen one with a green base on the outside. It is a bubble tip or something else.
<Could be Entacmaea; but my guess would be on Heteractis magnifica... at any length, this is a poorly specimen from its looks... is the basal disc torn? I'd be returning it pronto>
Enclosed the pic of the chartreuse side. Thank you.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Upset Anenome... another one down        2/19/14
My husband and I bought two clown fish and a purple tipped anemone 5 days ago.
<... not easily kept>

The anemone seemed quite happy at the lfs hosting with a different clown fish, but since we have gotten it home I've seen it "face plant" itself into a rock over night and right now it is laying on the bottom upside down,
I don't want to keep moving it
<... stop. Try searching, reading on WWM ahead of writing us. Don't move this animal>

 I can't imagine it's good for me to handle it along with just ending back upside down. I'm wondering if this is usual while it looks for where it wants to be, last night it kept spinning in the same spot about two inches off the bottom for a couple of hours. The clown fish are currently staying away from it though there is a peppermint shrimp that likes to check it out
once ever now and then. I've checked all the water parameters they are within normal limits, did a five percent water change. These are the only things in the tank besides some snails and crabs. And last question is this a wound on the bottom of its foot?
From what someone is telling me is it sounds like all of this plus that fact that it is bleached is going to be fatal to my anemone, is that true?
If not does anyone have any information for how I can try to nurse it back to health?
Thank you for your time and help,
<A goner. Bob Fenner>

Urgent Anenome problem. News not at 11:00         11/27/13
This morning we woke up to find our purple LTA (Violet) stuck to the front grill of a power head (1500GPH).
<Very common.... (just) search WWM re Anemones, Pumps... disasters>

 After shutting off the power head and lowering her and the power head to the sand bed, we saw part of her pedal had been sucked through a couple slots in the power head grill. Initially, there did not look to be any trauma to her pedal or tentacles although she was no longer "sticky". Her pedal was stuck through the slits and swollen up on the other side with no way to pull her out without damaging her pedal.
After waiting without success for several hours for her to deflate and extract herself, we observed that she was getting less responsive and we needed to do something quickly. We used some snips to carefully cut away the detachable front grill of the power head and was able to free her. We then noticed a shallow (<1/8") tear along the side of her foot about 1/2" long.
We set her on the sand bed and although she looks good physically (besides the tear, she is well inflated), she doesn't seem to be attaching to anything instead, rolling back and forth across the 4' aquarium over everything (LPS corals) on the sand bed. We reduced the flow of the power heads (which are now shielded with stockings!) and cordoned off the right hand side of the tank for her with egg crate and moved the other corals on the sand bed to the other side. Hopefully, you will agree this was a good idea (?). All tank parameters are stable (SG=1.026, pH=8.18, Ca=420, Alk=9, Temp=78.8, N's=0, Po=0).
<... need appreciable Nitrate and Phosphate... see WWM re this also>

She has always been pretty good about keeping put and I believe the reason why she ran in the first place was because the hose in our Kalk/ATO was on the bottom of the bucket (woops.)and probably sucked in some of the residual sediment and blew it into the tank during the nightly dosing. Is this a reasonable explanation?
<Will suffice as such speculations go>
The power heads and ATO have been fixed to prevent issues like this from occurring again. Is there anything in particular we can do to nurse her back to health?
<... reading. Optimized, stable conditions, feeding>

When can we expect her to be back to normal (eating, attached, etc.), assuming she survives?
<Can't tell from here>
Is there anything we need to watch out for physically?
<Dying, dissolving>

Thanks for any suggestions you may have. much appreciated!
Carmela & Tim
<The aforementioned searching, reading. Bob Fenner>

Bleached Anemone     9/29/13
Hello Crew,
I ordered a Haddoni Carpet Anemone from Liveaquaria. It arrived yesterday and I am concerned that it may be bleached.
<... the pic of the animal you've sent? Yes>

 It is very light green. It seems to be very healthy. It is very sticky and quickly buried it's foot deeply in the sand. I have always had such a good result with all live stock ordered from them.
<A reputable firm>
 Should I be concerned or is it possibly the natural color?
<Am cc'ing Kevin Kohen, who runs this division of Dr.s Foster & Smith... Am very surprised that they'd send this specimen along. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help,
Re: Bleached Anemone     9/29/13

Wow!!!!! Talk about customer service, and from a volunteer site! Will let you know the outcome.
<I encourage you to contact LA as well. BobF>

Re: Bleached Anemone     9/30/13
My name is Kevin Kohen and I am the LiveAquaria.com director for Drs. Foster and Smith.  I am very sorry to see that you experienced a problem with your recent LiveAquaria order number A2937672, as this is not the level of service that you deserve.
I have reached out this morning to the staff in California and sent along the image you had provided on WetWebMedia.com so that we can ensure that we take the proper steps to correct the problem.  The anemone you received is definitely far too translucent and bleached, as its expelled most of its Zooxanthellae.  Please keep the anemone illuminated well and offer food in the form of large Mysis, chunks of krill or other meaty foods several times per week and hopefully it will regain its beneficial algae.  This may take up to 6 weeks, but from the sounds of it, the anemone has the ability to capture food and adheres to a solid surface so that is a great sign. 
I have instructed our LiveAquaria.com staff to provide a refund back to your credit card which was used to make the purchase for both the anemone and the next day air Saturday shipping charge.  You should see this on your credit card statement in the next 72 hours.
Once again, this is not the level of service nor the quality of animals that we are known for, and I am sorry for the problems associated with your order.  We truly value you as a customer and sincerely appreciate your patronage and support. 
If you have any further questions please feel free to reach out to me directly or to our customer service staff by calling 1-800-334-3699 .
Kevin Kohen
Director of LiveAquaria
Drs. Foster and Smith
<Outstanding Kev; thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.
Re: Bleached Anemone     9/30/13

Thank you very much for emailing me,  I really appreciate it! 
<Kevin; your "A" efforts (Dr.s F & S) ARE the industry's exemplary standard. Am glad to bring occasional/anomalous events to your attention.
Cheers, BobF>
Kevin Kohen

Re: Bleached <sic> Anenome; rdg., finally      9/30/13
Thanks so much for the quick response. I received a fast refund this morning from LiveAquaria. You and your crew are the greatest! I will be attempting to revive this anenome since it is still sticky and accepting
food. Any other hints you may have would be appreciated.
<Please do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cptanemdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. B>

Is my anemone sick? Yes: Real trouble... reading; a voyage of self discovery (!)        9/7/13
Hello, my anemone is fairly new, we had gotten it a few dad
<... likely day>
 ago.  As of now it is hanging down and it has transparent looking skin coming off of the feet.  It's mouth is opened very wide and there are tentacles in the mouth as well. What's wrong with my anemone?  
<Mmm, a bunch... This animal is badly bleached... Other signs of poor health... Please search, read on WWM re general care. Bob Fenner>

Re: Is my anemone sick?   9/8/13
i have a 220 watt in a 55 gallon tank. is that wattage good enough?
<.... Amanda... you need to read; and soon... This may or may not be "suitable" lighting... can't tell absolutely on the basis of energy consumed... Read here:
SCROLL down to Anemones period... their systems, health... and read, SOON!>
 What measures do i take to help my anemone? Please help.
<... you're starting "too far back" in your education. IF possible, I'd return this animal, stat! BobF>

Injured anemone       3/2/13
Last night one of my live rocks shifted and landed on my green long tentacle anemone. I quickly moved the rock once I realized it had happened.
This morning I noticed that the anemone appears to have a tear on its column. Is there any way it can survive this, or is it doomed for death?
<Yes; if it was healthy prior, the water quality is good, stable...>
 Is there anything I can do to help it? Thanks!
<I'd overdose by double a dose of iodide-ate supplement (to the water). See WWM re. Bob Fenner>

Sad Anemone :(     8/29/12
Hey Crew,
I have a concern about my anemone.
<You should>
 I attached a picture to give you a better idea. I got my water levels checked
<... need to have your own test kits... See WWM re rationale>
and everything was fine in that department. I read on your site about feeding the anemone and I decided to buy some frozen krill.
<... okay>
This is the only change that's happened this past week. I feed him every other day, stopped two days ago though because it was looking a bit sick (closed up, shrivel looking tentacles) I'm not sure was the problem is, for the 5-6 months I've had him, he's been great. Have you come across this problem with my type of anemone?
<All types of large Pacific Actinarians used in our interest, yes>
Im continuing to look through out you site if I find an answer, but I thought I would ask up front too.
<I'd keep reading... and soon. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for the help,

Dyed and dying
Re: Sad Anemone :(     8/29/12
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the advice. The only reason why I haven't started testing the water myself is because the fish store I go to is literally 5 minutes away.
 By next month I will probably test myself, just need to wait for the next pay day! so I just came back from the fish store, showed them the picture, they said they do that every now and then and not to worry. my water levels were: salinity: 1.023,
<Too low...>
 Ph:8.1, Calcium: 360 (a bit low they said), and nitrate nitrite and ammonia are all 0  :)
<... stop writing please... and read on WWM. The anemone, all photosynthates need measurable NO3, HPO4...>
  so Im doing a small water change today, will keep reading WWM, (maybe if I give it smaller pieces of krill???) and if anything changes I will seek out WWM for some helpful advice!
Its a really beautiful anemone, I would hate to loose <lose> it!
<Keep reading. B>

re: Sad Anemone :(     8/30/12
<No need... DO read ASAP... this animal needs your intelligent help. B>

Re: Sick Anemone 2/6/12
Hi, sorry about that! I had our water checked and they said our levels were perfect, I asked them and they said the anemone could not be getting enough light, so I added lamps. However its still about the same, only half of its tentacles are inflating, the ends stay deflated. Is there anything to do?
Or just wait and see what happens? Also the color is fading.
<...? READ where you were last referred. ASAPractical. BobF>

anemones. Incomp. w/ "corals" 11/4/11
Hi Bob, thank you for being willing to share your expertise.
<Welcome... What else could I or anyone else actually do?>
I have a 150 g aquarium with 15 g sump, bioballs in 9" drop thru two foam filters, and because of the bioballs a separate sand, live rock and seaweed refugium (18 g), two house filters (pleated paper), a Fluval canister for charcoal, 200 lbs live rock, crushed aragonite substrate, use well water, <Mmm, I take it you've had this tested... for your potable as well as petfish uses. If it's okay for you, very likely fine for them>
system stays stable at ph-8.2(high buffering in my well water, NH3, NH4, NO2 all 0, have thriving corals under a power compact lighting and happy fish, except my clowns who have had to pine over several anemone losses.
<Actinarians are not easily kept; especially in the presence of other Cnidarian life>
I expect this to a degree as they don't handle stress the best, I buy from smart fish stores and look for signs of disease and bring only thriving specimens home. I dip in an anemone cleaner(use this for the corals too)

about fifteen minutes, put them where I think they'll like it and let them alone. They thrive and eat for around a week and begin to deteriorate, stop eating (which I don't fret about too much under lights), huddle up more, attract the attention of scavengers, and eventually definitely look like they are on they're way out(dropping bits of tissue or producing copious mucous), at which time I pull them, isolate them and none of them have made it out of quarantine. One developed a white patch (fluffy like a fungus might be or a bacterial infection) on its foot that spread very quickly. I have searched for information on anemone diseases and how to treat with no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
<Yes... Likely allelopathy... again, incompatibility w/ other stinging-celled life... Read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/AnemCompF5.htm
and the linked files above>
I hate to label my tank unsafe for anemones.
<It obviously is... There are instances/conditions where various Cnidarian classes co-exist... they need to be slowly acclimated to each others presence... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
particularly the area re mixing water twixt new/established systems/organisms while acclimating over week's>
I did have a Haitian that lasted seven months and then quite eating and shrunk, and a magnificent yellow orange sebae that also did well for months but was never interested in food, there is now a pretty happy blue tipped sebae in there that came in with two anemones that are dying. It seems fine, it has chosen an area of lower light....my lights are low already...but it looks good so I thought I'd leave it be even though it is out of reach for feeding. The other two are in quarantine and I could treat them if I knew what to give them. Should I dip in iodine? Is there something else available
<... what you've experienced is so common, it's the rule rather than the exception. READ where you've been referred to. Bob Fenner>
Re: anemones, hlth. 11/11/11

Thank you for your time...sorry to hear that...... and I will follow up on the links! The blue tip is thriving and eating so far! The clowns are starting to check it out...wish me luck. Thanks again.!
<I do wish you good fortune. BobF>

I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini anemones. 10/23/11
I purchased 3 maxi mini anemones from an online vendor. They arrived badly bleached. In 4 days they went from what you see in the picture to pure white.
<Right next to the Mushrooms above? Not surprising>

They respond to light. Whatever little color they came with, 4 days ago, has now left them. How can I nurse them back to health? Is it too late?
<.... read here re allelopathy: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above>
They do not stick like the other maxi minis I have. My concern is that they're not able to eat. Disputing with the vendor is futile at this point.
I also ordered a purple gorgonian from them that also arrived badly bleached. I've never seen anything like this.
<Gorgonians are generally poor shippers; NOT good beginner organisms>
The gorgonian shed and has good polyp extension. I can see a hint of purple after 4 days. How do corals get like this?
<? Stress, inappropriate conditions, improper placement, too aggressive tankmates...>
Is it too much dosing, not enough light?? What? I'm feeding oysterfeast, Phytofeast and frozen Cyclopeeze. I try to feed PE mysis but the anemones just won't hold on to them. I'm angry about this!
<What's the sense? Frustration?>
The photos attached are of the 3 anemones just 5 hours after they arrived.
They are the 2 on the bottom left and one mid bottom right. All except the black/blue one are completely white at this point. The black/blue one is fading fast. The Corallimorph on the bottom of the rock was found when I lifted the rock. Not of major concern.
<Uhh, yes; killing the anemones>

I suppose whatever would help the anemones would also help the Corallimorph. I hate when vendors are so callous about these beauties. It's criminal! Thank you.
<Where to have you start? You've provided no useful data re the system, conditions... Do you own any reference works? Bob Fenner>

Re: I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini anemones. 10/24/11
I have many reference books. Which ones do you have in mind?
<Anthony Calfo's BOP and the work by Eric Borneman done for Microcosm from when I was their trade manager>
The anger and frustration has passed. Now it's time to nurse them back to health, if possible.
<Is... but rare if bleached entirely>
My apologies for not sending this initially.
The gorgonian and anemones are in a 75 gallon mixed reef.
Tank specs
Lights are 2-150 watt MH 20K, plus 4-54 watt T5's super blue actinics 8-10
<These are of no functional use>

hours a day
CPR HOB refugium filled with macro and pods
30 gallon sump with ASMg-2 skimmer - 2 units of Chemipure elite changed every 2 months
SG 1.025
7.4 Ph.
<?! Please check this... Way too low>

Temp 77 F
0 phosphate
<... none? Some measurable is absolutely necessary>

10 Nitrates
0 nitrites
0 ammonia
1400 MAG
480 CAL
10% weekly water change with reef crystals
<Mmm, and please see WWM re this IO product. Some batches have proven problematical in recent years. I'd switch brands>
I dose
B-ionic part I&II
Kent Marine Tech M Magnesium
Brightwell's -Microbacter7
Brightwell's - Restor
<Why these last two products? BobF>
Re: I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini anemones. 10/24/11

I'm not a fan of exercises in futility or slim odds, but feel badly for these magnificent creatures. They deserve a chance.
Will test PH again when the lights are on for a while longer and adjust accordingly. Phosphate - could be my test kit is off. Will test again.
I've found that my corals respond well to Macrobacter7 and Restor; brighter colors and amazing polyp extension after dosing. Especially the LPS's.
What mix do you recommend?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/synthsaltmixes.htm
and the linked files above... TM is my fave>
Yes, I have Mr. Calfo's "Book of coral propagation". I also have "Reef Invertebrates" by You and Calfo as well as "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" (fave book) by you. Have to search further to see if what I have by Borneman. I have many Marine aquarist and reef related books.
Thank you for your time.
<Welcome. B>

Anemone Dying! What Do I Do?/BTA Health... death 12/8/10
<Hello Chaton>
I just received my new green BTA yesterday afternoon from Blue Zoo Aquatics.
I've always had great results with their livestock, so when I received my anemone, I was very hopeful. When I opened the bag after letting it float in my tank for about an hour, I immediately noticed a foul smell, and saw that the mouth was wide open and what looked like mesenteries we hanging out.
<Not good.>

I called Blue Zoo and explained <explained> this to them and they said to acclimate it as normal and to put it in the tank and see how it does overnight. Well, when I put it in, it immediately took hold of the rock I placed it on and became a bit larger in diameter, but stayed shriveled and continued pushing its "guts" out. I read everything I could find on this with anemones, and all I could find was people talking about brown stuff and how the anemone will go back to normal after the lights come on and so forth, This one is not doing that.
<I believe you are misinterpreting that with expelling waste.>
I've included a photo, but it looks like a nuclear mushroom cloud.
<More like impending death.>

That's the only way to describe it. Everything else in the tank seems to be doing well. You can see in the photo that my new feather duster is doing just fine. The photo was taken right around 0600 as I was getting up for work so I haven't had a chance to test the water yet, but plan to right away, but need to know what to do. Please help! Lighting is T5's and actinics.
<I'm afraid your anemone is near death and I would remove from this system ASAP, possibly place in
QT in the event of a miracle. Your anemone likely poisoned itself in its shipping water, and/or depending on your location and transit time, shipping water parameters may have deteriorated dramatically. Because anemones are poor shippers, I would prefer buying one locally where I can observe the specimen first hand before buying. Blue Zoo does give an arrive alive 7 day guarantee so you may want to send them this pic before the guarantee expires. James (Salty Dog)>

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