Re: BTA shrinking tentacles more info... Allelopathy  4/24/2009
Hi I sent you guys a question earlier this morning about my bubble tip anemone problems. I sent a picture of him, and listed all water and lighting other livestock etc. I did not mention the other corals in my tank. I have been reading on your site all day and I'm wondering if the brown, gold, and green Zoanthids in my tank could be the problem.
<Mmm, yes>
I thought it was the new light bulbs. I will continue researching on your site, but wanted to add to my earlier e mail that there are a lot of Zoanthids in my tank, also some metallic green star polyps, a toad stool,
and a mushroom.
<All these can be toxic to other Cnidarians... most so the Zoanthids>
If the Zoanthids are the problem, should I get rid of them. Our tank has been set up for a long time and they have multiplied a lot. Will my BTA survive? What's the easiest way to get rid of them? Thanks. Dawn D.
<Mmm, best for you to read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above... till you understand your situation, options, consequences. Bob Fenner>

bubble anemone shrinking tentacles... Nope... sent secondarily  4/24/2009 Hi Crew. Thanks in advance for your help. I am needing some help with my bubble tip anemone. <Not... see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Can't be sure from your image, but from the color of the pedicle, the verrucae... this looks like a Heteractis magnifica> I purchased him at my LFS about 2 months ago. I am in the process of trying to correctly identify him using your web site, but when I got him he had beautiful frosty bulbs with purple on the tips. <Mmmm?> He was fine, behaving and eating as I would expect based on the research I've done about them. About a month ago we replaced the bulbs in our aquarium. Compact fluorescents 2 each of 65w dual actinics and 2 each of 10,000K dual daylights. <How far away...?> Our tank is a 90 gallon with a 15 gallon sump. No mechanical filtration. 6 inches live sand, 110 lbs live rock, a pro clear aquatics 150 protein skimmer in the sump, and a pacific coast imports chiller that keeps the temperature at a constant 78. specific gravity is always 1.024 with water that has evaporated replaced each day with RO water from a Kent RO unit. We do weekly 10% water changes. Calcium is about 400, PH is 8.2-8.3. no ammonia etc. alkalinity is on the high side of normal according to my test kit. The aquarium has been set up for over 3 years. This is the first time adding a BTA. Also I change a carbon pillow monthly in the sump. We have four ocellaris clowns, one desjardinii tang, one regal tang, one yellow tang, a coral beauty, and a male and female mandarin dragonet. Also a lot of snails, some hermit crabs a couple cucumbers a skunk cleaner shrimp and two red fire cleaner shrimp. Anyway, since we replaced the light bulbs, our BTA has not been well. His color on his body is still the same, brown, but his tentacles have shrunken more and more until they are almost gone. He still eats and excretes waste. I feed PE mysis shrimp mixed with Cyclopeeze and formula two flakes daily to all tank inhabitants, and I feed small chunks of shrimp and scallops from my local grocery store to the BTA every few days. Usually he takes it. Occasionally he lets it go. Are the lights the problem? <Perhaps a contributing factor... This amount (intensity) of light is insufficient for either Entacmaea or a Magnificent...> Should I move him? <I would try this> He is attached to a large rock that can be moved lower in the tank. I am attaching a photo that I took of him this morning. At night when the lights are out his disk expands like a big soft pillow full of water, about 4 or 5 inches across, but the bulbs still stay shrunken. His mouth is tight and smooth. Can you guys(and or girls) help? Thank you so much. I love your site! <Please use it. Bob Fenner>

Anemone issues or normal? Anemone/Health 3/24/09 WWM Crew, <Mike> Love the site, certainly one of the best online!! <We definitely have the traffic.> Now I recently acquired an Anemone with a setup I bought, has a Tomato clown currently hosting. I've been keeping them in my frag tank, since I tried an Anemone before and not much luck. Needless to say I'm gun shy about putting in my main tank. The way he looks in this picture only scares me more. First of all my lights 250 MH new 10k bulb, Tank is 45 Gal corner hex, Amiracle wet dry, live rock instead of bio balls, Berlin 60 protein skimmer. <What kind of light is the anemone under at present? This anemone requires intense lighting to survive, more along the likes of your main tank lighting.> In the evening about 5 hours into the light cycle, it shrinks up, recently started showing his innards, see picture. One pic is taken today deflated, mouth exposed, other is normal pic taken about two weeks ago. In the morning, he is back out puffed up with water as it should be.  I've had it about a month, has eaten krill pieces, plankton, silverside pieces, and anything I feed the fish and corals. Is this normal? <Which, you feeding it or the anemone's appearance? Anemone doesn't look real healthy and likely on it's way out. Your anemone appears to be a Condylactis and they are not hosting anemones. If the clownfish is in with him, I'd remove the clown, is likely causing damage/stress to the anemone. I am in agreement with you, I would not put this anemone in the display tank.> Water Parameters as of yesterday: Calcium 320 Nitrate 0 pH 8.8 dKH 125.3 <Your reading indicates KH to me, dKH would be 6.9> Phosphate 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrite .10 By the way, can you identify it as well? <As above.> Thanks for the helpful/wealth of information. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Mike

Re: Anemone issues or normal? 3/24/09 Thanks for the fast response! <You're welcome, Mike.> The Anemone is currently under the 250W Metal Halide lighting. Is it normal for them to deflate? <Not to the point that I saw in the pic.> I did notice when lights out with just the moon lights, it came inflated back up to normal within about an hour. Looked great. This seems like a stupid question, but could the light be too much? <Depending on the type of lighting he came from, yes, is possible and is why light acclimation can be necessary.> I'm going to remove the Clown as well, maybe that is the issue. <Yes, does not belong with this anemone. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on light acclimation. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm> Thanks again, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Mike

Anemone Looks Sick 3/18/09 I added a clownfish and anenome <anemone> over the weekend, and after 2 days, the clownfish has been really swimming hard in the anenome. Last night, the tentacles in the anenome have gone inward and the foot/stem is laying on it's side...but tentacles are still moving. I think the anenome <anemone> may be dying from all the rough treatment from the clownfish. <I'm going to forward this to Sylvia Browne, maybe she can help me with useful information I need to attempt to answer this, such as, tank size, water parameters, lighting, filtration, tankmates, etc. Please provide. James (Salty Dog)> Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/18/09 90 gallon tank, HO T5 lights <How many, 2, 3, 4, what size?? Depending on the anemone you have, may not be enough lighting.> ...trickle sump filtration.....water test done a few days ago...prior to adding fish....all levels OK. Anenome <anemone> was fine until clownfish was swimming roughly on it for 8 hours on and off... <Is natural for the clown to do this. Better to keep the clown separated until the anemone acclimates and attaches. What kind of anemone is it? Might be better for you to read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm James (Salty Dog)> Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/19/09 Here's a photo of my anenome with the clown nearby. The lighting was recommended by a trusted professional who set up my tank. He is very knowledgeable. Please advise. I love my anenome, and don't want to lose him. <I did advise, re-read below. I never get a straight answer from you as to my questions in this thread, all I hear "is by a trusted/knowledgeable professional". If that's the case, why are you writing? Since you will not tell me about your lighting system other than was recommended by a trusted professional, I will tell you that anemones are shallow water photosynthetic invertebrates. They all require bright lighting to survive. A few species (E. quadricolor, S. haddoni) can thrive under bright VHO lighting, but for the most part, all require bright lighting including metal halide/HQI, to survive, especially the Condylactis anemone which is what you have. <<Mmmmm.>>  The anemone in your pic appears to have an inverted mouth, generally a sign of stress, illness or both. Anemones also require high water quality, in some cases, even more so than corals. So, hash this over with your professional and get his input and do read where you were directed below. James (Salty Dog)>

"I was in the wrong place" but it must have been the right time".... This Premnas needs to be separated from the Anemone.

Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/19/09 Sorry to bother you....my professional recommended this website as a place to get excellent info/answer questions about marine aquariums....He is out of town this week, and I wanted immediate help on my problem. I will not bother you any further. <Is not a problem, we were trying to help you, but got little in the way of needed/asked for info. Regards, James (Salty Dog)> Robin Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/19/09 How is that done? Take the anemone out and place him in the sump tank? <You can, would be much easier than trying to catch the fish. Keep in mind this anemone is going to need intense lighting to survive. James (Salty Dog)> Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/19/09 Thank you for your patience with my many questions...this is my first tank and I don't want to make any mistakes. The lighting is 4 lights...white and blue which I have on a timer. The anemone started to look bad when the clownfish pushed it up against a live rock, and acted aggressive toward it. The experts at the place where I bought everything said the clownfish is just playing...no problem, but I disagree. <Is normal behavior for the clown, problem is, the Condylactis are not hosting anemones, and is the reason the anemone needs to go, for it's own welfare. Being you are new to the hobby and this is your first tank, be forewarned that anemones are not a good beginner invertebrate. They are difficult to keep for any length of time even for experienced hobbyists. THANKS. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Robin Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/20/09 Thanks for all your help and advice...much appreciated. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Robin

Anemone Decline (allelopathy) and leather coral question (sys.)   12/5/08
I purchased live rock from an aquarist who was moving and it included a long tentacled anemone and clarkii clown. The anemone has done fine for about a month, moving to his own spot and staying for most of the time.
The clown often feeds him from formula two and pieces of chopped krill that I place in the tank.
<Ah, good>
Two days ago the anemone moved two feet across the aquarium under a rock and began getting smaller, different than the usual fluctuations. He has now moved further under the rock and totally withdrawn and emitted a pile of mucous.
<Needs to be moved... now>
He hasn't distend anything from his mouth but doesn't open to feed or move into the light for the algae to produce food. I've read the FAQs and other answer, but can't seem to find out what the problem is.
<A "lack of agreement" with some other form of Cnidarian life here... in a word, Allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and possibly elsewhere on WWM re Anemones, Macrodactyla in particular if you don't understand enough what is happening here, the need for action.>
I don't want to give up on him prematurely but don't want to risk harm to the other inhabitants. Any thing I can do to help him out or sure way to tell when he's dead (assuming the hermit crabs won't start eating him as a sign).
<You don't want to wait this/that long>
My second questions is regarding a small leather coral 1 1/2" long that was on the live rock. It was partially covered by algae film. I removed the film and placed in in my nano tank. It was knocked off the top of the reef by a fish or crab and fell to the rear. I left it there since I wanted to minimize stress of repeated touching and movement. Now it has grown a 1" long stalk and attached to the rock, and all feelers extend. My q is there anyway to relocate it (it is towards the back and difficult to see) or is it better to leave it alone?
Thanks,
Sid
<If in a "very bad spot" I would move it... it cannot move itself. Bob Fenner>

My Bright Yellow Anemone – 10/31/08 Here is my yellow anemone; it is much brighter than the picture shows. The base is also yellow. <<Wowza! And even in the pic it is glowing neon yellow! This looks to be a Heteractis/Sebae Anemone…and is undoubtedly a “dyed specimen”>> It is in a 72 gallon tank with just under 200 watts of light. My local saltwater store who I have known for yeas swears it’s not dyed, <<Mmm…looking again at the picture, one must wonder how they can “swear” this is not a dyed specimen>> and says my lights are strong enough. <<Much more than just “lighting” required keeping these animals (and this one with strikes against it already)>> He says the old rule of watts per gallon isn’t accurate as new style bulbs and reflectors have made lighting more efficient. <<This “rule” is indeed of little use…but for more reasons than this. Water clarity, water depth, feeding, “quality” of the system, et al contributes here>> What do you think? <<I think you have purchased a dyed animal…and am concerned that your LFS would “swear” otherwise>> How long would it take for color to fade if it was dyed, and how long to die if my lights are really too weak? <<You have much to worry about other than just lighting with this (any) anemone...and a need to read about/research the animals under your care. Please start reading here and among the associated links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm And be sure to continue here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm >> Thanks <<Happy to share. EricR>>

R2: My Bright Yellow Anemone... dyed Heteractis crispa 11/23/08 Just wanted to let you know 3 weeks later and my bright yellow anemone has faded, <<Mmm, not surprising like we discussed>> It still yellow, buy fairly pale at the tips. I'd say its lost 40% of its color. Ironically I bought a pink one just as bright the same day, and within 3 days it was pretty much all white. <<You stated previously that your LFS owner swears he knows the source of these animals and that they are not dyed. It would seem this retailer is indeed trafficking in dyed animals?>> It has been white for the last 3 weeks and has bright purple dot on the tip of each tentacle. <<Perhaps you will be lucky and it will recover>> My clowns play in both of them all day long; hopefully this will give them added stimulation. <<It is, but is only adding to the stress of these animals at this point>> Do you think this white with purple tip is now normal, or should it change to brownish? <<White anemones are NOT normal? The animal is bleached as a result of being dyed, and may or may not recover. You need to reduce the stress on these animals, provide optimum water quality and proper feeding for now, and wait>> The faded yellow has no dot on the tips and I was told they are the same species. <<By your own words you were also assured these animals were not dyed by your LFS? Tell me, who do you believe/trust now?>> Thanks again, Trevor <<Regards, EricR>> R3: My Bright Yellow Anemone � 11/23/08 Thanks again, <<Welcome again>> I guess I'm still in shock about the dyed anemone trade, <<All too common? And not limited to Anemones>> I mean my local store had 20 of these bright anemones in and they were all sold right away. <<This is sad, truly? And I must still question your store's assertion that these were not dyed animals (ignorance or deception?). There are only 2 saltwater stores in our city, and I'm sure all 20 people wont be happy that there expensive colored anemone is not really that color. <<Indeed? A shame all can't/won't make it/their feelings known to the store owner>> I know I will never buy another neon pink or yellow anemone. <<There are indeed some splendidly colored specimens? But your photograph that you submitted with your initial query showed an obviously dyed animal. Something that you too may have been able to discern, with some research beforehand>> My concern now is I can try to bring these 2 back to health, but the odds are against them surviving? <<Yes? But some do survive the dye process>> I don't want to lose my reef of 3 years, because when the anemone dies it can release toxin? <<It can, yes? You will want to keep a close eye on these Cnidarians and remove them at the first signs of deterioration>> I'm kind of at a point of no return? <<So it would seem. All you can do is provide optimal care now>> I will try and maintain good water, but at what point do I reach that dead end? <<When/if the animals die.>> Or how do I know if they're getting better? <<If they exhibit healthy behavior, and begin to reclaim Zooxanthellae (will likely turn a golden brown color if so)>> Or if it is really sick and should be removed? <<As stated, if the animal begins to deteriorate/dissolve/come apart, remove it/them immediately>> They're not turning inside out, the clowns love them, they seem very content, just the coloring is all bleached. Any idea of timeline or something specific to watch for? <<Just as already stated. In the mean time, do keep reading up on the magnificent creatures. Here's another link to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>> Thanks again, Trevor <<Happy to share. EricR>>

Anemone...Sick? 11/13/08
My sister has gone to college, but her salt water tank is staying at my house. It is a seven gallon tank. Her clown fish recently died, so my mother went to a pet store and bought her a new clown fish and a long tentacle anemone.
<Uh-oh.>
We have only had the anemone since yesterday, and this morning it looked amazing. Tonight, however, it shrunk and pulled most of the length of its tentacles inside of itself, leaving only about 1/4 of an inch of tentacles sticking out. It also expelled some kind of white slimy-looking mucus that floated beside it for a few minutes and then disbanded into the water. Is this normal?
<Its not good.>
Is the anemone sick or simply adjusting to its surroundings?
<These require a mature system, much larger and inherently more stable than a 7 gallon (and a good bit of lighting). Unfortunately you are fighting a losing battle here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm and the linked files above will give you more info. Scott V.>

Please help BTA Anemone looks bad 11/2/08 Guys, <And gals...I know, way over used!> I left this morning and things were fine. I came back at lunch and a hermit was underneath the anemone, the BTA was as if trying to get away unsuccessfully, and its foot below looked torn and I could see the matter inside. (See pics) What the heck is going on? <More info needed here. What do your water tests tell you, how old is this system, how mature is the tank, lighting?> ThX Danny <Reply back and we will see what we can figure out. Scott V.>

Anemone Bleaching FAQs  8/31/08
Greetings from NZ, oh wise ones.
<Hello from Iowa! I rather like this 'wise one' bit...maybe I'll mandate it>
I picked up an anemone (Heteractis sebae/ malu..? The one with cream-ish bubble and balloon shaped tentacles, with supposedly luminous blue/ purple tips) a couple of months ago, in what was admittedly a run down condition.
<Tough to find any other way...unfortunate>
It was in a dim tank with T5 lighting and dozens of Aiptasia for company. Completely white, it apparently had always been that way, and had been in the same spot for a year or more.
We encouraged it to come off the substrate and rock on which it was perched by running a power head stream over its foot from a distance. It settled into the spot where I put it in my reef tank, specs below:
200-litre display with 60 litre sump and AquaC Remora skimmer, rated for 1300 litres.
System circulation/ turnover ~3500 litres per hour, and internal turnover approx 5000 litres per hour. Nitrites/ ammonia ~0, nitrates around 20-40 ppm,
<Really too high for optimal health in this anemone>
phosphate negligible through regular filtration in sump. (No refugium).
Regular dosing of reef supplement with all soft and hard corals in prime condition, including a fine head of Porites and Christmas trees + a couple of tridacnid clams.
Lighting 150 W metal halide + 2 actinic tubes.
Back to the anemone, it is also in fine physical condition, fed on a bit of shrimp/ mussel every couple of days, extends tentacles on cue etc, responds to stimuli well etc.
<Good.>
The colour remains pretty much snowy white/ cream. There is some brown speckling starting to appear on about 10% of the tentacles, and I am guessing this will undergo a population explosion of sorts once the zooxanthellae hit a 'critical mass'.
<Very much so. When conditions, health reach proper status...process speeds up.>
The oral disc is a pale pink, and the column is a rich silky cream. The anemone itself seems quite happy, even though it is being steadfastly ignored by my Perc clown ( I will be introducing a clarkii or similar to get results on the hosting front).
<Hosting is hit-and-miss, no matter the species. I'd just stick with the percula, and wait. Sometimes they host after months, or years, of ignorant behavior>
My gripe is with the colour. I anticipated the tentacles would regain their blue/ purple tips, and sometimes a faint dark tip is visible - when the tentacles are not fully inflated.
<These may well come back with time. These pigments are expensive to produce, and I would not expect them to return until well after this anemone has repopulated its algal symbionts. Also keep in mind there are variations in colouring, and not all specimens will be as vibrant- or the same colours- as others.>
Would you have any advice on ways I can influence the coloration or do you reckon it is likely to remain this speckled look. Would a new companion to host be beneficial in any way?
<Continue feeding good marine-origin meaty foods. I'm not sure about the availability of products down under, but making a frozen food from a Cyclops-eeze type product and a little plain gelatin to be thawed in small pieces for the anemone may help provide HUFAs and colouring compounds...also do try soaking the foods in a vitamin supplement like Selcon. Also, a hosted fish would not aid in this process-may hurt, as there is some stress to the anemone and occasional damage from a hosted fish...not a perfectly balanced symbiosis.>
I searched the sheer wealth of info on your site, but could not find anything specific to this, I apologise for the extra long-winded query!
<No trouble at all! See if you can't get the nitrate down in your tank, and keep taking good care of that anemone, and with time I think you'll be happy with the results.>
Regards
Mani
<Best wishes. Benjamin>

Re: Anemone Bleaching - 8/31/08 9/24/08
Hi
Just re the anemone you had advised me on a short while ago, I would like to let you know it is now a speckled brown/ tan color over most of the tentacles, and similar colored lines radiating out from the oral disc. Any thoughts on when the blue/ purple tips I am expecting should show? It seems in overall good health, and appears to be a very fussy eater - only fully thawed shrimp meat is accepted, and it spits out clams, mussels, squid etc.
<Good. Carry on with good care and it will color up>
I am planning to shift it to a larger, newer set up, is that advisable, or should I just let it stay in a more mature environment?
<I would keep it in a mature environment. Let the larger set up mature, and let this guy get totally healthy before stressing him with a move.>
Thank you for your help.
Best regards
Mani
<No problem! The same to you, Benjamin>

Anemone help -New Anemone Health Issues, Bleached – 6/16/08
We got our first anemone yesterday and I'm thinking it is a H. crispa. It is white with purple tips. We put it in our tank at about 5:30 p.m. At about 6:30 p.m. or so, we looked at it again and it was completely deflated and had spit out all of its food.
<This is much too soon to be feeding it. It is still stressed from the acclimation.>
It still hasn't blown back up and I'm wondering if this is normal or if it is dying. It is still moving around in the tank but it doesn't seem to be getting any bigger.
<It is looking for a suitable place. >
If you could please give me some answers I would appreciate it.
<Sure can! “White” is not normal. It has expelled its zooxanthellae. As far as the deflating, this can be part of the normal acclimation process. However, since you have a sick little guy anyway, there may be more to it. Please send me a complete list of your water parameters, tank size, age, equipment, and tank mates. What did you feed the anemone, and what size portion? In the mean time, please read through the FAQs regarding Anemone health here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm
 Brenda >

Re: Auriga Butterfly Compatibility - anemone care 05/14/08
So I have another question for you. I have a very little bubble tip that I have had for about three month. He is about 3" from end to end fully
open.
<Are you sure this isn't a majano anemone?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemoniafaqs.htm>
He was a beautiful green color until I put him under compact florescence's. I know the lighting wasn't enough for the zooxanthellae
to survive,
<Hmm... depends on the animal, the lighting and the depth of the tank/where the animal is placed.>
but the anemone did. He turned brown and I started to feed him every other day. He seems to be doing well. I just recently placed him under a t5. Its a 24watt 10K and a 24watt 460 nm Actinic. He is currently under 15" under the light. Is this lighting going to help him?
<probably>
Can I place the rock he is on closer to get better light?
<yes>
Also can he get his color back if under proper lighting? Will I still have to feed this creature as much to make up for the loss of zooxanthellae?
<Anemones under any lighting should still be fed.>
What would it take to get this creature to show its bubble tips again?
<Well, first things first, are you sure this is a bubble tip anemone? Please send in a pic for confirmation.>
I am hosting him with a small Maroon as well. I did research this animal before I purchased it disregarding the lighting. The tank is a 60g with live rock. Thanks again for your help, this web site and the crew have been very helpful.
Spencer Hall
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Anemone, Zooxanthelle, Dead Anemone – 5/12/08
Hi
<Hi Jim, Brenda here!>
I have a white anemone that has shrunk into it self and polyps seem to have gotten extremely small.
<A white anemone has expelled its zooxanthellae. Those are tentacles, not polyps. >
Also it looks like it's shedding. Is it dead? Or dyeing and should I get it out of the tank?
If its falling apart, its dead, get it out by placing it in a container inside the tank so that you can catch most of the particles. Then do a large water change. Keep an eye on water parameters, and be prepared for more water changes over the next several days. >
Thanks
Jim
<Anemones are delicate animals. Please research their care and be sure you have provided an adequate environment before purchasing another. More information on anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Brenda>

Troubled bubble tip- Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08 Hi Crew, <Yunachin here.> Hopefully you can give me some promising information. I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the ballast in my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank until the replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it has begun to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little worrisome. Would this be in regards to the lack of light? <Yes. Anemones will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much light.> I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something else. I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from the rock. It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I can do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of the game. <Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but it looks healthy otherwise.> Thanks in advance for all the help!! Thanks!!!! <You’re welcome. –Yunachin> Rachael

There is a Euphyllia to the right... RMF

Anemone sick HELP... not following directions... No reading, prep., info....  2/18/08
Hello there, I brought a big beautiful anemone 2 days ago. I don't know its proper name
<...>
for the type of anemone that is it but its a pinky flesh colour with white tips and a blood red base.
<... you haven't read... here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Likely a Heteractis magnifica or H. malu...>
My question is, I think it is dying and I really need help to keep it alive.
<Return it if it's still alive>
What happened was that the Anemone when to the top of the tank too close to the top of the water, so I tried to move it down a little and there was a little struggle in moving it and a little bit of him was left stuck on my tank wall. When I say a little bit I mean a really tiny bit. Ever since that happened, it has turned its mouth pointing to the floor and its base facing the top of the tank. What is there that I can do???
Please help
Thanks
--brooks
<My friend, you don't know what you're doing. Please read the above citation... This animal is not easily kept... will assuredly die here... Investigate the life you intend to take into your care... AHEAD of its acquisition. Bob Fenner>

Re: Anemone sick HELP... still... not reading... using WWM    2/19/08
Thank you so much for your time to reply to my questions as I'm very grateful. My anemone is ok now and is happy. As you are an expert with marine fish and marine life, I would like to ask you, How many anemones can you keep in one tank?
Please get back to me as soon as you can
Many thanks, Jack
--brooks
<Based on your question yesterday, and the reply you were given, I really can't add anything constructive. I used the term "multiple anemones" in the search engine and came up with a number of replies covering this already. Please learn to use the search function. Mike I>

Weird pink tip anemone... no reading, or referral  2-12-08
Dear WWM crew,
<Yunachin here.>
I have two percula clowns and a purple fire goby and a coral beauty. I also have a pink tip anemone but he has been fine for three days but an hour ago he was fine and is now wilted and not looking good. he will still eat and still moves and is stuck to the rock but what can I do to save it. Thanks.
<Please send me the parameters of your tank: Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite Ph, Temp, Salinity. Also the size of the tank and how long it has been set-up, including any changes you have made in your tank in the last week. Thanks --Yunachin>

Parasitic isopod on an anemone?   2/11/08
Hello, first I'd like to express how much I appreciate your site. This is a fantastic resource for a fascinating hobby!
After a stop through my quarantine tank, I introduced a new sebae anemone to my aquarium. Not 48 hours later, I saw what I think is a parasitic isopod emerge from the fleshy tube of the anemone.
<This is the first instance I have encountered of this crustacean group found in such an association>
Sigh; hindsight is always clearer, but I sure wish I'd kept him in quarantine just a little longer.
Anyway, here's what happened: I noticed a 1/4-1/2 inch long, narrow, "bug" on the fleshy tube of the anemone. The little guy was yellowish brown, with a clearly discernable head and eyes. It had plates on its back, and many feet. It was right next to a newly formed crater in the tube. This crater was approximately 1/2" in diameter, and speckled with brown stuff on its interior.
<This is the anemones insides... and likely a hole bored through the pedicle>
I'm not really sure about this next part, but I think the bug may have had some blue dots clutched on its underside. It looked for all the world like a shrimp with eggs. In any case, it wandered off and then a short time later returned to the anemone and died.
Any idea what this "bug" could be?
<Mmm... likely an isopod from the description...>
Should I be worried about the continued health of my anemone or coral?
<... if these are mixed together, yes...>
Other inhabitants include some star polyps, xenia, a toadstool leather coral, a clam (tridacnid crocea), and (in the opposite corner of the aquarium) a frogspawn (captive raised).
<Good for the last>
If it is harmful, is it too late to do anything now that it has been set loose in my display tank?
<Not likely>
Thank you sincerely for the help, and for this excellent web site; there always seems to be something new to learn!
Sincerely,
Mike Harris
<I'd be reading on WWM re Isopods, Sebae/Heteractis crispa compatibility... Bob Fenner>

Mixing Saltwater Improperly, Damaged Anemone – 2/01/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello Richard, Brenda here!>
I thought I would send this word of warning and also a question about a bubble tip anemone. Although relatively new to marine keeping, I like to think that I don't make rookie mistake anymore i.e. anemone vs. powerhead.
<If there is a powerhead in the tank, it is a possibility. There is no such thing as an “anemone safe” powerhead, no matter how well protected.>
However, I thought this e-mail might just serve as a warning to others as to how delicate these creatures are and how often we expect them to adapt to our world, time constraints and schedules etc. I have a 1 year-old daughter who occupies quite a bit of my spare time and
therefore daddy's other babies (2 clowns and the aforesaid BTA) often take second place and the time I have for them is very limited.
<Yikes! This is not ideal for the livestock.>
I knew I hadn't done a water change for over 3 weeks and although parameters are good, one of my clowns was not looking too good, so I decided the most non-invasive way to help would be to do a decent (20%) water change. Having quickly mixed the RO water up, I poured it into
the tank. I usually pour it next to a powerhead (covered!) so that any slight difference in temp, ph, salinity is quickly dispersed.
<These parameters should match before you add to the tank.>
However, the anemone lives directly under this powerhead and the last few dribbles of water contained some undissolved salt which gracefully floated down through the water and landed on the anemone, which immediately retracted.
<This is not the proper way to mix salt. This is quite damaging to all of your live stock. I recommend letting your salt mix for 24 hours before doing a water change. Making sure the salinity matches the tank, at 1.026, I hope.>
I immediately 'fanned' him to make sure there was no remaining undissolved salt on it, but damage done! Although I am sure he will survive,
<I am not.>
approximately 12 hours later there is still a clear area that either has tissue damage, or is still retracted/deflated. A quick search on Google of "anemone + salt" revealed that some-one in the US has a patent on a mixture of salt and calcium hydroxide for killing
'problem' anemones like Aiptasia! I just thought it worth pointing out to others that something that might seem relatively harmless, a few grains of salt floating in already salty water, is actually probably one of the most harmful ways of damaging an anemone.
<It is well known that improperly mixed saltwater will harm livestock.>
Finally, the question, if I leave it to recover and maybe give it a few additional feedings, how quickly can anemones recover i.e. weeks or months? Extent of damage is hard to say. Fully extended, it is a good hand sized anemone, well attached and never wanders, no damage to pedal disc, but at the moment I would say 10% of the tentacles are retracted or damaged with small amount of mucus and small amount of tissue showing white 'scarring' around contact point with salt.
<This is hard to say. This anemone has suffered a chemical burn. This is severe. Additional feedings alone will not help. You need to keep pristine water conditions. You will likely be able to tell within a week or so if the anemone is improving. Full recovery may take weeks or months. This anemone may also split, and the injured portion may or may not survive. For now, concentrate on better husbandry. Anemones do not like abrupt change. Adding saltwater that is not completely mixed will cause death.>
Richard
<Brenda>

New Anemone, Bleached, Expelled Zooxanthellae – 1/31/08
I purchased a flower anemone online a couple of days ago, 3 small ones all the same species. Well two look whiter than one. Is this normal or a sign of unhealthy anemone?
<It is an unhealthy anemone.>
Also I have heard of the term "bleaching" what does it mean when an anemone bleaches?
<This is when the anemone expels its zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae is an algae that lives inside the anemone. When this happens, the anemone loses its color, and becomes white, or bleached. This can be corrected by providing a stable, suitable environment. I suggest feeding small portions (1/8”) of food every day or two until the anemones have recovered, then reduce to 2 – 3 times a week. Hope this helps, let me know if you need any further assistance with the recovery! Brenda>

Re: New Anemone, Bleached, Expelled Zooxanthellae – 1/31/08
Thank you soooo much!!! I love the site with all the great information!!! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
<You are very welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>