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FAQs on Anemone Health 10

FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone Disease 1, Anemone Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3, Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis Disease, Sebae Disease, LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip AnemonesLTAs, Cnidarians, Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Selection, Anemone Placement, Anemone FeedingAnemone SystemsAnemone Lighting

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sick Anemone - Nitrate Issues? 1/8/10
Hi There,
<Hello Sheridan>
My name is Sheridan, and I have recently inherited a 164gal reef tank. I have kept fresh water aquariums but this is my first salt. They neglected it for over twelve months and all corals have unfortunately died. I received the tank covered in red slime but the surviving inhabitants seem ok (2 Cinnamon Clownfish, 2 Chromis, 2 Branded Coral Shrimp, 1 Talbot Damsil <Damsel> (I don't think that is spelt <spelled> right!), 1 Foxface and 1 black long spiked urchin)
The nitrates were originally off the chart, guessing around 150ppm or so,
with 6 weeks of water changes and removal of all dead skeletons, etc, the nitrates are down to 70-80ppm and falling.
<An improvement.>
My mother, bless her, purchased a Bubble Tipped Anemone for the tank without my prior knowledge. The plan was to be stabilise the tank and then start with the new inhabitants....but alas I don't know what to do. I have placed it high in the tank and have not removed it from the rock it was purchased on.
I have set up a 30gal quarantine tank (it is only 24hrs old, seeded with substrate and a very small amount of water from the large tank) and would like to know if you recommend leaving the anemone where it is, move it to an un-cycled QT or return it to LFS?
<Return it to the LFS.>

I am turkey-baster-feeding it brine shrimp and It is reacting ok, but during feeding and at night its mouth appears quite slack and I am worried about the colour - could you please comment?
<Yes, do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
Attached is a photo of the anemone and the tank for size reference, although the anemone was not in it at the time of photo.
Thank you, and sorry for the short story!
<You're welcome, and in future queries, please provide more information as to equipment used, lighting, filtering methods, etc. James (Salty Dog)>

Anemone quarantine -- 10/31/09
Dr. Fenner,
<Heeeee! Maybe for Halloween!? Just Bob, please Terry. I have no doctorate>
I have a question about quarantining an anemone. My quarantine tank is not setup (lighting wise) for an anemone, because I have a FOWLR setup. I've never needed strong lighting. I only wish to keep anemone's in the system long term, therefore the display tank has been setup for anemones. I have a 150 gallon high tank with 0 nitrite and ammonia, and .05 nitrate. I have 500 watts of MH (14K), 1 96 watt t5 (20K), and 1 96 watt (10K). The sand bed is 6-7 inches, the system has been established for one year. I have a 50 gallon refugium with Chaetomorpha, and live rock in it. There is approximately 130 lbs. Of live rock in the system. All the inhabitants are reef safe with the possible exception of a 5 in. Blue angel which hasn't been tested yet.
<Sometimes these will go after/eat anemones>

I also have 2 other tanks if something goes after the anemone, I can the fish. I am mainly concerned about quarantining the water the anemone is in than the anemone itself due to ich and other possible bacterium/viruses which may inhabit the water. Any suggestions?
Terry Baldwin
<Yes... to move some of the water back/forth from the QT and main/display systems on a daily basis... to allow all to "get used" to each other over time... A week or two should prove the health of the new animal, and the mixing of waters will ease transition. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone quarantine
Does the anemone not need light on a daily basis while in quarantine?
<Yes... if the process is going to go on for many days. BobF>

Anemones/Health 7/29/09
Hi guys and gals
I love this site, thank you for what you do.
<You're welcome, and glad you enjoy.>
I have (1) yellow Sebae Anemone (1) purple tip Sebae and (1) Rose Anemone set up in (2) tanks (1tank) a 90 gal. And (1tank) 30 gal ,plumbed together.
The yellow and purple tip is housed in the (30gal. tank).The yellow Sebae use to be bright yellow and opened to approximately 8" around .For the last 2 months it is not opening as large and now its color is very pale yellow and some of its tentacles are even showing some light brown to it.
<Sounds like this anemone was dyed, tan to light brown is generally what is found in the wild.>
The purple tip has no color lost but it is only opening a 1/4 of it size (normally 10" around).
The Rose Anemone is in the main (90gal.tank) seems to be fine.
<Sounds about right, the Bubble Tip (Rose) Anemone is the easier one to maintain.>
Lights-14,000k 250watts MH.
back ground info-----
I changed my lighting about 1 1/2 month ago from Coralife (2) actinic and (2) 10,000 t-5 to Aqua traders, a 10,000k 150 watt fixture with (2) actinic in hopes that better lighting would help.
no help!!!!
I feed the anemones (2) times a week
<Too much, once weekly is plenty.>
with (1) krill each and alternate with 1/2 of a silver side for each anemone.
water parameter- phos-20ppm, nitrate-10 to 20 ppm, cal. KH, and pH and temp. are all within range.
<Your high phosphate level is contributing to your red slime problem, and I'd try to keep the nitrates under 10ppm.
Are you using a protein skimmer?>
all other tank inhabitants are normal ( Leather Coral, Colt Coral, Birds Nest, Bubble Coral and fish are all normal.
<Not a good idea mixing corals with anemones, allelopathy problems can arise.>
I have the (2) tanks on reverse lighting periods.
I am dosing Vodka at 3ml. a day for the whole system as they are plumbed together.
I have some red slime algae on the back wall of the 30gal tank.
Water movement and flow is good.
please advise if anyone has any suggestions.
<The majority of all anemone specimens sold in the trade don't even live a few months... Major reasons are poor collection, processing, shipping/handling, and likely an equal amount due to being placed in a poor environment by dealers. Heteractis Crispa (Sebae Anemone) is difficult to keep for any length of time even under the best conditions for reasons stated above. Do read/learn more about these Cnidarians here.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Khoa Adams

Re: BTA shrinking tentacles more info... Allelopathy  4/24/2009
Hi I sent you guys a question earlier this morning about my bubble tip anemone problems. I sent a picture of him, and listed all water and lighting other livestock etc. I did not mention the other corals in my tank. I have been reading on your site all day and I'm wondering if the brown, gold, and green Zoanthids in my tank could be the problem.
<Mmm, yes>

I thought it was the new light bulbs. I will continue researching on your site, but wanted to add to my earlier e mail that there are a lot of Zoanthids in my tank, also some metallic green star polyps, a toad stool,
and a mushroom.
<All these can be toxic to other Cnidarians... most so the Zoanthids>
If the Zoanthids are the problem, should I get rid of them. Our tank has been set up for a long time and they have multiplied a lot. Will my BTA survive? What's the easiest way to get rid of them? Thanks. Dawn D.
<Mmm, best for you to read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above... till you understand your situation, options, consequences. Bob Fenner>

bubble anemone shrinking tentacles... Nope... sent secondarily  4/24/2009
Hi Crew. Thanks in advance for your help. I am needing some help with my bubble tip anemone.
<Not... see here:
Can't be sure from your image, but from the color of the pedicle, the verrucae... this looks like a Heteractis magnifica>
I purchased him at my LFS about 2 months ago. I am in the process of trying to correctly identify him using your web site, but when I got him he had beautiful frosty bulbs with purple on the tips.
He was fine, behaving and eating as I would expect based on the research I've done about them. About a month ago we replaced the bulbs in our aquarium. Compact fluorescents 2 each of 65w dual actinics and 2 each of 10,000K dual daylights.
<How far away...?>
Our tank is a 90 gallon with a 15 gallon sump. No mechanical filtration. 6 inches live sand, 110 lbs live rock, a pro clear aquatics 150 protein skimmer in the sump, and a pacific coast imports chiller that keeps the temperature at a constant 78. specific gravity is always 1.024 with water that has evaporated replaced each day with RO water from a Kent RO unit. We do weekly 10% water changes. Calcium is about 400, PH is 8.2-8.3. no ammonia etc. alkalinity is on the high side of normal according to my test kit. The aquarium has been set up for over 3 years. This is the first time adding a BTA. Also I change a carbon pillow monthly in the sump. We have four ocellaris clowns, one desjardinii tang, one regal tang, one yellow tang, a coral beauty, and a male and female mandarin dragonet. Also a lot of snails, some hermit crabs a couple cucumbers a skunk cleaner shrimp and two red fire cleaner shrimp.
Anyway, since we replaced the light bulbs, our BTA has not been well. His color on his body is still the same, brown, but his tentacles have shrunken more and more until they are almost gone. He still eats and excretes waste. I feed PE mysis shrimp mixed with Cyclopeeze and formula two flakes daily to all tank inhabitants, and I feed small chunks of shrimp and scallops from my local grocery store to the BTA every few days. Usually he takes it.
Occasionally he lets it go. Are the lights the problem?
<Perhaps a contributing factor... This amount (intensity) of light is insufficient for either Entacmaea or a Magnificent...>
Should I move him?
<I would try this>
He is attached to a large rock that can be moved lower in the tank. I am attaching a photo that I took of him this morning. At night when the lights are out his disk expands like a big soft pillow full of water, about 4 or 5 inches across, but the bulbs still stay shrunken. His mouth is tight and smooth. Can you guys(and or girls) help? Thank you so much. I love your site!
<Please use it. Bob Fenner>

Anemone issues or normal? Anemone/Health 3/24/09
WWM Crew,
Love the site, certainly one of the best online!!
<We definitely have the traffic.>
Now I recently acquired an Anemone with a setup I bought, has a Tomato clown currently hosting. I've been keeping them in my frag tank, since I tried an Anemone before and not much luck. Needless to say I'm gun shy about putting in my main tank. The way he looks in this picture only scares me more. First of all my lights 250 MH new 10k bulb, Tank is 45 Gal corner hex, Amiracle wet dry, live rock instead of bio balls, Berlin 60 protein skimmer.
<What kind of light is the anemone under at present? This anemone requires intense lighting to survive, more along the likes
of your main tank lighting.>
In the evening about 5 hours into the light cycle, it shrinks up, recently started showing his innards, see picture. One pic is taken today deflated, mouth exposed, other is normal pic taken about two weeks ago. In the morning, he is back out puffed up with water as it should be.  I've had it about a month, has eaten krill pieces, plankton, silverside pieces, and anything I feed the fish and corals. Is this normal?
<Which, you feeding it or the anemone's appearance? Anemone doesn't look real healthy and likely on it's way out. Your anemone appears to be a Condylactis and they are not hosting anemones. If the clownfish is in with him, I'd remove the clown, is likely causing damage/stress to the anemone. I am in agreement with you, I would not put this anemone in the display tank.>
Water Parameters as of yesterday:
Calcium 320
Nitrate 0

pH 8.8
dKH 125.3
<Your reading indicates KH to me, dKH would be 6.9>
Phosphate 0

Ammonia 0
Nitrite .10

By the way, can you identify it as well?
<As above.>
Thanks for the helpful/wealth of information.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Anemone issues or normal? 3/24/09
Thanks for the fast response!
<You're welcome, Mike.>
The Anemone is currently under the 250W Metal Halide lighting. Is it normal for them to deflate?
<Not to the point that I saw in the pic.>
I did notice when lights out with just the moon lights, it came inflated back up to normal within about an hour. Looked great. This seems like a stupid question, but could the light be too much?
<Depending on the type of lighting he came from, yes, is possible and is why light acclimation can be necessary.>
I'm going to remove the Clown as well, maybe that is the issue.
<Yes, does not belong with this anemone. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on light acclimation.
Thanks again,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Anemone Looks Sick 3/18/09
I added a clownfish and anenome <anemone> over the weekend, and after 2 days, the clownfish has been really swimming hard in the anenome. Last night, the tentacles in the anenome have gone inward and the foot/stem is laying on it's side...but tentacles are still moving. I think the anenome <anemone> may be dying from all the rough treatment from the clownfish.
<I'm going to forward this to Sylvia Browne, maybe she can help me with useful information I need to attempt to answer this, such as, tank size, water parameters, lighting, filtration, tankmates, etc. Please provide.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/18/09

90 gallon tank, HO T5 lights
<How many, 2, 3, 4, what size?? Depending on the anemone you have, may not be enough lighting.>
...trickle sump filtration.....water test done a few days ago...prior to adding fish....all levels OK.
Anenome <anemone> was fine until clownfish was swimming roughly on it for 8 hours on and off...
<Is natural for the clown to do this. Better to keep the clown separated until the anemone acclimates and attaches.
What kind of anemone is it? Might be better for you to read here and related articles/FAQ's.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/19/09

Here's a photo of my anenome with the clown nearby. The lighting was recommended by a trusted professional who set up my tank. He is very knowledgeable.
Please advise. I love my anenome, and don't want to lose him.
<I did advise, re-read below. I never get a straight answer from you as to my questions in this thread, all I hear "is by a trusted/knowledgeable professional".
If that's the case, why are you writing? Since you will not tell me about your lighting system other than was recommended by a trusted professional, I will tell you that anemones are shallow water photosynthetic invertebrates. They all require bright lighting to survive. A few species (E. quadricolor, S. haddoni) can thrive under bright VHO lighting, but for the most part, all require bright lighting including metal halide/HQI, to survive, especially the Condylactis anemone which is what you have.
 The anemone in your pic appears to have an inverted mouth, generally a sign of stress, illness or both. Anemones also require high water quality, in some cases, even more so than corals. So, hash this over with your professional and get his input and do read where you were directed below. James (Salty Dog)>

"I was in the wrong place"
but it must have been the right time".... This Premnas needs to be separated from the Anemone.

Re Anemone Looks Sick 3/19/09
Sorry to bother you....my professional recommended this website as a place to get excellent info/answer questions about marine aquariums....He is out of town this week, and I wanted immediate help on my problem.
I will not bother you any further.
<Is not a problem, we were trying to help you, but got little in the way of needed/asked for info.
Regards, James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/19/09

How is that done? Take the anemone out and place him in the sump tank?
<You can, would be much easier than trying to catch the fish. Keep in mind this anemone is going to need intense lighting to survive. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/19/09

Thank you for your patience with my many questions...this is my first tank and I don't want to make any mistakes. The lighting is 4 lights...white and blue which I have on a timer. The anemone started to look bad when the clownfish pushed it up against a live rock, and acted aggressive toward it. The experts at the place where I bought everything said the clownfish is just playing...no problem, but I disagree.
<Is normal behavior for the clown, problem is, the Condylactis are not hosting anemones, and is the reason the anemone needs to go, for it's own welfare. Being you are new to the hobby and this is your first tank, be forewarned that anemones are not a good beginner invertebrate. They are difficult to keep for any length of time even for experienced hobbyists.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Looks Sick/Apology 3/20/09

Thanks for all your help and advice...much appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Anemone Decline (allelopathy) and leather coral question (sys.)   12/5/08 I purchased live rock from an aquarist who was moving and it included a long tentacled anemone and clarkii clown. The anemone has done fine for about a month, moving to his own spot and staying for most of the time. The clown often feeds him from formula two and pieces of chopped krill that I place in the tank. <Ah, good> Two days ago the anemone moved two feet across the aquarium under a rock and began getting smaller, different than the usual fluctuations. He has now moved further under the rock and totally withdrawn and emitted a pile of mucous. <Needs to be removed... now> He hasn't distend anything from his mouth but doesn't open to feed or move into the light for the algae to produce food. I've read the FAQs and other answer, but can't seem to find out what the problem is. <A "lack of agreement" with some other form of Cnidarian life here... in a word, Allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm  and possibly elsewhere on WWM re Anemones, Macrodactyla in particular if you don't understand enough what is happening here, the need for action.> I don't want to give up on him prematurely but don't want to risk harm to the other inhabitants. Any thing I can do to help him out or sure way to tell when he's dead (assuming the hermit crabs won't start eating him as a sign). <You don't want to wait this/that long> My second questions is regarding a small leather coral 1 1/2" long that was on the live rock. It was partially covered by algae film. I removed the film and placed in in my nano tank. It was knocked off the top of the reef by a fish or crab and fell to the rear. I left it there since I wanted to minimize stress of repeated touching and movement. Now it has grown a 1" long stalk and attached to the rock, and all feelers extend. My q is there anyway to relocate it (it is towards the back and difficult to see) or is it better to leave it alone? Thanks, Sid <If in a "very bad spot" I would move it... it cannot move itself. Bob Fenner>

My Bright Yellow Anemone -- 10/31/08 Here is my yellow anemone; it is much brighter than the picture shows. The base is also yellow. <<Wowza! And even in the pic it is glowing neon yellow! This looks to be a Heteractis/Sebae Anemone'¦and is undoubtedly a 'dyed specimen'>> It is in a 72 gallon tank with just under 200 watts of light. My local saltwater store who I have known for yeas swears it's not dyed, <<Mmm'¦looking again at the picture, one must wonder how they can 'swear' this is not a dyed specimen>> and says my lights are strong enough. <<Much more than just 'lighting' required keeping these animals (and this one with strikes against it already)>> He says the old rule of watts per gallon isn't accurate as new style bulbs and reflectors have made lighting more efficient. <<This 'rule' is indeed of little use'¦but for more reasons than this. Water clarity, water depth, feeding, 'quality' of the system, et al contributes here>> What do you think? <<I think you have purchased a dyed animal'¦and am concerned that your LFS would 'swear' otherwise>> How long would it take for color to fade if it was dyed, and how long to die if my lights are really too weak? <<You have much to worry about other than just lighting with this (any) anemone...and a need to read about/research the animals under your care. Please start reading here and among the associated links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm  And be sure to continue here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm >> Thanks
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

R2: My Bright Yellow Anemone... dyed Heteractis crispa 11/23/08 Just wanted to let you know 3 weeks later and my bright yellow anemone has faded, <<Mmm, not surprising like we discussed>> It still yellow, buy fairly pale at the tips. I'd say its lost 40% of its color. Ironically I bought a pink one just as bright the same day, and within 3 days it was pretty much all white. <<You stated previously that your LFS owner swears he knows the source of these animals and that they are not dyed. It would seem this retailer is indeed trafficking in dyed animals?>> It has been white for the last 3 weeks and has bright purple dot on the tip of each tentacle. <<Perhaps you will be lucky and it will recover>> My clowns play in both of them all day long; hopefully this will give them added stimulation. <<It is, but is only adding to the stress of these animals at this point>> Do you think this white with purple tip is now normal, or should it change to brownish? <<White anemones are NOT normal? The animal is bleached as a result of being dyed, and may or may not recover. You need to reduce the stress on these animals, provide optimum water quality and proper feeding for now, and wait>> The faded yellow has no dot on the tips and I was told they are the same species. <<By your own words you were also assured these animals were not dyed by your LFS? Tell me, who do you believe/trust now?>> Thanks again, Trevor <<Regards, EricR>>

R3: My Bright Yellow Anemone � 11/23/08 Thanks again, <<Welcome again>> I guess I'm still in shock about the dyed anemone trade, <<All too common? And not limited to Anemones>> I mean my local store had 20 of these bright anemones in and they were all sold right away. <<This is sad, truly? And I must still question your store's assertion that these were not dyed animals (ignorance or deception?). There are only 2 saltwater stores in our city, and I'm sure all 20 people wont be happy that there expensive colored anemone is not really that color. <<Indeed? A shame all can't/won't make it/their feelings known to the store owner>> I know I will never buy another neon pink or yellow anemone. <<There are indeed some splendidly colored specimens? But your photograph that you submitted with your initial query showed an obviously dyed animal. Something that you too may have been able to discern, with some research beforehand>> My concern now is I can try to bring these 2 back to health, but the odds are against them surviving? <<Yes? But some do survive the dye process>> I don't want to lose my reef of 3 years, because when the anemone dies it can release toxin? <<It can, yes? You will want to keep a close eye on these Cnidarians and remove them at the first signs of deterioration>> I'm kind of at a point of no return? <<So it would seem. All you can do is provide optimal care now>> I will try and maintain good water, but at what point do I reach that dead end? <<When/if the animals die.>> Or how do I know if they're getting better? <<If they exhibit healthy behavior, and begin to reclaim Zooxanthellae (will likely turn a golden brown color if so)>> Or if it is really sick and should be removed? <<As stated, if the animal begins to deteriorate/dissolve/come apart, remove it/them immediately>> They're not turning inside out, the clowns love them, they seem very content, just the coloring is all bleached. Any idea of timeline or something specific to watch for? <<Just as already stated. In the mean time, do keep reading up on the magnificent creatures. Here's another link to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm >> Thanks again, Trevor <<Happy to share. EricR>>

Anemone...Sick? 11/13/08 My sister has gone to college, but her salt water tank is staying at my house. It is a seven gallon tank. Her clown fish recently died, so my mother went to a pet store and bought her a new clown fish and a long tentacle anemone. <Uh-oh.> We have only had the anemone since yesterday, and this morning it looked amazing. Tonight, however, it shrunk and pulled most of the length of its tentacles inside of itself, leaving only about 1/4 of an inch of tentacles sticking out. It also expelled some kind of white slimy-looking mucus that floated beside it for a few minutes and then disbanded into the water. Is this normal? <Its not good.> Is the anemone sick or simply adjusting to its surroundings? <These require a mature system, much larger and inherently more stable than a 7 gallon (and a good bit of lighting). Unfortunately you are fighting a losing battle here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm  and the linked files above will give you more info. Scott V.><<... RETURN this animal to the store, stat! B>>

Please help BTA Anemone looks bad 11/2/08 Guys, <And gals...I know, way over used!> I left this morning and things were fine. I came back at lunch and a hermit was underneath the anemone, the BTA was as if trying to get away unsuccessfully, and its foot below looked torn and I could see the matter inside. (See pics) What the heck is going on? <More info needed here. What do your water tests tell you, how old is this system, how mature is the tank, lighting?> ThX Danny <Reply back and we will see what we can figure out. Scott V.>  

Anemone Bleaching FAQs  8/31/08 Greetings from NZ, oh wise ones. <Hello from Iowa! I rather like this 'wise one' bit...maybe I'll mandate it> I picked up an anemone (Heteractis sebae/ malu..? The one with cream-ish bubble and balloon shaped tentacles, with supposedly luminous blue/ purple tips) a couple of months ago, in what was admittedly a run down condition. <Tough to find any other way...unfortunate> It was in a dim tank with T5 lighting and dozens of Aiptasia for company. Completely white, it apparently had always been that way, and had been in the same spot for a year or more. We encouraged it to come off the substrate and rock on which it was perched by running a power head stream over its foot from a distance. It settled into the spot where I put it in my reef tank, specs below: 200-litre display with 60 litre sump and AquaC Remora skimmer, rated for 1300 litres. System circulation/ turnover ~3500 litres per hour, and internal turnover approx 5000 litres per hour. Nitrites/ ammonia ~0, nitrates around 20-40 ppm, <Really too high for optimal health in this anemone> phosphate negligible through regular filtration in sump. (No refugium). Regular dosing of reef supplement with all soft and hard corals in prime condition, including a fine head of Porites and Christmas trees + a couple of tridacnid clams. Lighting 150 W metal halide + 2 actinic tubes. Back to the anemone, it is also in fine physical condition, fed on a bit of shrimp/ mussel every couple of days, extends tentacles on cue etc, responds to stimuli well etc. <Good.> The colour remains pretty much snowy white/ cream. There is some brown speckling starting to appear on about 10% of the tentacles, and I am guessing this will undergo a population explosion of sorts once the zooxanthellae hit a 'critical mass'. <Very much so. When conditions, health reach proper status...process speeds up.> The oral disc is a pale pink, and the column is a rich silky cream. The anemone itself seems quite happy, even though it is being steadfastly ignored by my Perc clown ( I will be introducing a clarkii or similar to get results on the hosting front). <Hosting is hit-and-miss, no matter the species. I'd just stick with the percula, and wait. Sometimes they host after months, or years, of ignorant behavior> My gripe is with the colour. I anticipated the tentacles would regain their blue/ purple tips, and sometimes a faint dark tip is visible - when the tentacles are not fully inflated. <These may well come back with time. These pigments are expensive to produce, and I would not expect them to return until well after this anemone has repopulated its algal symbionts. Also keep in mind there are variations in colouring, and not all specimens will be as vibrant- or the same colours- as others.> Would you have any advice on ways I can influence the coloration or do you reckon it is likely to remain this speckled look. Would a new companion to host be beneficial in any way? <Continue feeding good marine-origin meaty foods. I'm not sure about the availability of products down under, but making a frozen food from a Cyclops-eeze type product and a little plain gelatin to be thawed in small pieces for the anemone may help provide HUFAs and colouring compounds...also do try soaking the foods in a vitamin supplement like Selcon. Also, a hosted fish would not aid in this process-may hurt, as there is some stress to the anemone and occasional damage from a hosted fish...not a perfectly balanced symbiosis.> I searched the sheer wealth of info on your site, but could not find anything specific to this, I apologise for the extra long-winded query! <No trouble at all! See if you can't get the nitrate down in your tank, and keep taking good care of that anemone, and with time I think you'll be happy with the results.> Regards Mani <Best wishes. Benjamin>
Re: Anemone Bleaching - 8/31/08 9/24/08
Hi Just re the anemone you had advised me on a short while ago, I would like to let you know it is now a speckled brown/ tan color over most of the tentacles, and similar colored lines radiating out from the oral disc. Any thoughts on when the blue/ purple tips I am expecting should show? It seems in overall good health, and appears to be a very fussy eater - only fully thawed shrimp meat is accepted, and it spits out clams, mussels, squid etc. <Good. Carry on with good care and it will color up> I am planning to shift it to a larger, newer set up, is that advisable, or should I just let it stay in a more mature environment? <I would keep it in a mature environment. Let the larger set up mature, and let this guy get totally healthy before stressing him with a move.> Thank you for your help. Best regards Mani <No problem! The same to you, Benjamin>

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