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Tank setup - 2/21/2006 Hello, <Hi there> I have a 96 gallon, drilled, corner aquarium with stand, hood, & glass top. I have an Oceanic biochamber reef ready sump. Although I have had this tank for a while, this tank has never seen water. I have a lot of chemistry experience and have had very large fresh water tanks for years (none of the tanks were drilled). I wanted to step up to a salt water tank. I got estimates from three companies who would come out, supply the parts I do not have, do the initial setup of the tank and give me an education in the process, and when the time was appropriate, assist in selecting residents for the tank. The estimates I got ranged from $1,000 to $3,000 for the parts and set up. When I ask one dealer why they recommend X vs. another dealer who recommended Y and the third guy says I need Z ... they all claim the other guy is wrong, new, an idiot, setting the tank up to fail so they will get repeat business, etc. I am ready to plant flowers in this tank! If you were to set up this tank what parts / brands would you recommend? <... posted on WWM... there are "many roads", approaches one can elect to take. Do yourself a giant favor and seek an adequate education here. Read re what your options might be, the rationale behind one, the others... and choose for yourself out of knowledge> What do you feel is a reasonable amount of money to spend on setting up this tank? <Depending on how DIY you might be, want to become, a few hundred dollars. You could spend thousands on gear, controllers...> The tank is built so everything can be contained in the stand below the tank. <Maybe> I believe I could do it myself but the concept of a drilled hole in the bottom of the tank over my brand new Pergo floors is really hard for me to swallow. I have this vision of putting something together wrong and it leaking all night. Is it really as difficult as everyone is trying to make it appear? Thank you for your help, <No simple way around taking your time, or blindly trusting others here... I encourage you to make the conscious informed decision of whether you'd be better off with "something else" here... or to invest the effort, resources to knowing enough... Bob Fenner> Re: Maybe the experts can help... - 03/11/2006 Wow, you were right, your web page is immense and should have every thing I need. Thanks for the advice, and keep up all the good work. Eric <Am endeavoring to do so. Please feel free to send along your input, questions as your plan progresses. Cheers, Bob Fenner> "Preflight Check" (Preparing a New Tank) 1/25/06 First off, your site is awesome! <Thanks for the kind words! Scott F. with you tonight!> I'm learning a lot by reading your site a few hours a day. I am a newbie to saltwater tanks, I'm putting together my first tank and could use some advise from the pro's. <Just hobbyists like yourself, but we'll do our best!> I have a 90 gallon reef ready tank and bought the Pro Clear wet/dry 150 with built in skimmer Catalina 2200 return pump, Catalina 1800 skimmer pump. I also have a Nautilus Phos-reactor, 2 Rio 600 power head [for circulation] and a Rio 1700 power head for possible 18 UV light [should I use a UV light with saltwater??] <Some people swear by UV sterilizers. I've never used them with any degree of frequency, and I've never had any problems with disease.> I am looking to buy a RO/DI filter system 4 stage [Barracuda] after reading /hearing some of the horror stories about tap water. <A good RO/DI system is money well spent, IMO> I would like to do a fish with live rock and live sand to start for now. Everyone I talk to thinks I'm Crazy but I always wanted to do a saltwater tank and I excited about it! <Man, you're getting me excited! I love hearing about new tank start-ups. It IS an exciting time in a great hobby!> Guess I need to know if I'm on the right track. Thanks in advance for all the help John <Well, John, it sounds like your equipment choices are fine. The most important items, IMO are a good protein skimmer and a nice sump to work with. Next, make sure that you develop a sensible stocking plan that is suited for your tank. With a good plan, quality equipment, and sound husbandry practices, you'll optimize your chances for success! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> "Preflight Check" (Pt.2) Re: Setting up my first saltwater tank... please help 1/26/06 Thanks for the help Scott, <You're quite welcome.> Please bear with me I have a few more questions, I do try and do a Google search but never find exact answer I'm looking for before e-mailing you. <Do keep looking on the very extensive resources that we have here on the WWM site. Lots of good stuff here!> The wet / dry comes with a skimmer [should be good enough right?] <If the skimmer is properly sized for the tank, you should be fine. Many times, however, the skimmers that come with wet-dry systems are not large/capable enough for the systems they are intended for.> The sump area is not that big. The CA 2200 return pump takes up a lot of the room in there. I keep hearing about Refugiums...what is this? Extra sump room? <A refugium is more than that. It's essentially a separate sump or area of your sump that provides a place for various plants and animals to grow an multiply, unmolested by the display tank's inhabitants. In return, the refugium helps provide greater biodiversity, supplemental nutrient export (through growth and harvest of macroalgae), and food sources (through natural plankton production) for the inhabitants of the display.> If you can guide me to a link on WWM about it that would be great. <Try this one: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm > I ordered my RO/DI system!! <Excellent! Money well spent!> And had a question...doesn't everybody for you'll When I'm ready for my first tank fill, I'm going to get two 55 gallon pails and RO/DI the water and mix the salt[ Tropic Marin ] in the pails before I put the water in the tank. <That's fine, or you can mix it in the display.> The thing is I read all different opinions on how long you wait before you put the water in, adding buffer to the mix, circulation, aeration, heating...I'm all mixed up. If you can clarify for me I would appreciate it. <Well, you'd probably want to fill your system with freshwater first, to leak test everything, and then mix the salt. Buffer the RO water before using it. Lots more about this topic is found right here on the WWM site...I'd also recommend that you pic up a copy of Bob's "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" and Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium". Both are great guides with most of the information that you'll need to get your system off to a good start.> One more question...I promise. Can you tell me if this is the right order in the first fill up? I want to but the base rock in first, then sand at least 2 inches [does it all have to be live sand?] then fill the tank with the SW mix, let it run for 24 hrs, then add live rock...sound good? <Sounds fine. You don't have to use live sand, but you may want to "inoculate" it with some live sand from an established system to help "jump start" the bacteria population.> Everyone is telling me not to listen to the other guy and put some hardy fish in right away to get the cycle going. My head is kinda spinning right now. <Well, it really is not necessary (nor humane!) to use fish to cycle the tank. You can use a piece of frozen shrimp stuck in the sand as an ammonia source, or speed things up with one of those "bacteria in a bottle" products. There are no shortcuts, but there are lots of tricks to help get things going.> I really can't thank you guys enough, if I would have come across your website awhile ago I would have attempted SW sooner Thanks again John <My pleasure, John! Best of luck to you! Do make use of the amazing resources we have for new hobbyists on the WWM site...You'll find tons of good information here! Regards, Scott F.> Pre-Tank Jitters and Questions 12/26/05 Happy holidays, <Back at ‘yah.> Just a few questions here. <Sure.> I have purchased a good skimmer and a good filter and am putting together a tank tomorrow. <Awesome, great Christmas present.> What precautions if any should I take while putting it together. <The first precaution I would take is your own safety be aware of electrical equipment, be sure to have drip loops and have all outlets equipped with GFI’s.> Also I have a 100 gallon tank and need to know how many pounds of rock would you say is a good amount to put in before getting starter fish. <Depends on the density of the given rock, a very porous piece can be large (softball sized) and weight only one pound while a goofball sized piece of rock can be solid an weigh the same thing. The key is surface area; you want rock with lots of surface area so that nitrifying bacteria can colonize. As for an amount I’d say plan for at least 50 to 75 pounds, and you will probably want more for aesthetics. As for “starter” fish, I’m always weary of that phrase…if you mean damsels, I would reconsider. Make sure the nitrogen cycle is complete before adding any specimens and be sure to quarantine them before introduction into display. Keep reading WWM.> Have a Merry Christmas <To you and your family as well.> Ryan O <Adam J.> Back for More, But Where to Start? Recommended Reading - 11/15/2005 Hello: <Hi there Shane.> I am just getting back into marine aquaria after having been away from the hobby for 15 years.<Oooh, fresh fish...well almost.> I am planning on setting up a 30 gallon reef aquarium but would like some recommended reading to get back up to speed on changes before diving in head first.<Good call as there have been a few.> I will be focusing on live rock, soft corals, inverts. <Well Shane, welcome back. Here are some of my personal fav.'s; "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Fenner, "Natural Marine Aquariums: Reef Invertebrates" by Calfo and Fenner, "Natural Reef Aquariums" by Tullock and "The New Marine Aquarium" by Paletta. I feel this is listed in order of importance for your current state, and should help you progress in a natural order towards the corals and inverts.> Thank you for your time and trouble. Shane <Happy to share. - Josh> Starting Over? - 09/07/05 Good evening, <<Good evening>> I am starting completely over with my saltwater system, basically starting from scratch. <<ok>> When water is put into a system for the first time, obviously you can't put fish in right away- what can be added to the water to make it ready for fish? (i.e. live rock, damsels, groupers?). (My tank is 125 gallons, w/skimmer and sump.) <<Mmm...you've done this before? If you have saltwater in the tank you can go ahead and add your live rock and substrate while the tank cycles. I would like to suggest you do some reading up on our site re tank setup/cycling...lots of info for your use. Maybe buy a good book or two?>> Thank you very much for your time! Daniel <<Happy to help Daniel, and do please, help yourself...Regards, EricR>> Bare bottom? Using WWM, sigh 7/31/05 Hello, I was going to upgrade to a new tank, and I have been debating on several different things, asked around and got several different answers, you guys have never steered me wrong so I thought why not ask. First off, do you recommend a tank with the built in over flow, or a standard tank, also is there a big difference between a tank with a sump and a tank without? <... huge differences... all explained on WWM... start reading... here: http://wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm and on to the... blah, blah linked files above, where you blah, lead yourself> Second, I also wanted to have a bare bottom tank, have you had any experience with this, what are the advantages, disadvantages? <... also posted> Lastly, I already have 30 some corals and many fish in my system, what is the best way to approach a tank change over, should I try to save as much water as I can, is a 50% water change too much on the livestock? <Likely can make this transition, with matched water (stored, pre-mixed) quality> Ohh, one last thing, do you recommend having a ozone generator, I have seen a tank with it and without, and it seems like it only makes the water look clearer, can you tell me what else they do? thank you so much clueless in Cleveland <Don't be clueless... read... learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM. Bob Fenner> - Aquarium Setup and 240v Equipment in the US (?) - Hi WWM CREW After being advised to read the WetWeb media site by a friend on an English web aquarium site, I am pleased I did as your web site is by far the best I have been on with easy to understand forums and easily accessible chat forums. I have decided after reading your forums on skimming and lighting, to purchase my equipment from America, as the equipment seems to be of a lot higher standard to the equipment we have here in the U.K. <I'm not convinced this is the case... there are some excellent aquarium stores in the UK and by and large have access to the same equipment we do.> I have decided to go with the AquaC remora hang on skimmer and 1 x 250 w metal halide with 2x actinic tubes lighting system... My tank is a Juwel Trigon 90 gallon corner tank, Its dimensions are width 98cm x height 60 cm x depth 70 cm with 90 pounds of L/R. My question to the wet web crew is do you think the equipment I have chosen is enough for my tank. <Think it would be fine.> If not could you recommend to me what I should be using and what sort of lighting make I should go for from the U.S. Also could you recommend a good aquarium equipment outlet in America where I could get my equipment from, Preferably a place that stocks equipment compatible to 240 volts which is the UK system. <Well, that is the crux of the biscuit then, isn't it... you're going to be hard pressed to find any dealer in the US that has 240v/50hz equipment available for shipping. We're at 110v/60hz here and there are well defined distribution paths for equipment in Europe. Any US company "might" be able to procure such items for you but it's possible you would have a long wait, and pay a lot of shipping costs to get it to you. I do know you can order the skimmer direct from AquaC but would still need to find a pump for it locally.> Anything you can do to help me with this matter would be more than appreciated...Yours faithfully Paul. <Cheers, J -- > New Setup Hey crew, <Hey, Aaron> Thanks in advance for answering my questions! I'm sure you can help. I haven't yet purchased an aquarium, and I would like to know if what I am going to purchase is all that I need or if there is something I don't. Here is my list: - 55gallon rectangular glass aquarium - a RemoraC protein skimmer <Good choice> - a Current USA Power Compact Dual Satellite fixture(260 total watts) - an 8watt aqua UV sterilizer - an instant ocean hydrometer - a SeaChem test kit - a 200 watt Won-Pro heater - 2 AquaClear 70 power heads - a natural wave pump timer - a dolphin 1 star air pump - 30lb of Aragalive live sand - 70lb of live rock - a net - a staple flake food - a highly nutritious pellet food - some frozen food (I would really appreciate some suggestions on the food) <Any of the Ocean Nutrition is good> - a medium AquaFuge refugium - a penguin power filter - I roughly estimated the price of the equipment to be $1,300 The livestock that I would are as follows: - 2 firefish gobies - 1 Banggai cardinal - 1 yellow rose antenna goby - 1 gold stripe maroon clown (added last) <Not a good choice with docile fish like the gobies and cardinals. Try something more docile to fit in with the group.> I would like to keep a bubble coral and a flame polyp colony and possibly some other corals (suggestions please), and eventually a xenia and a BTA, but I can wait on those. <Anemones are really not recommended with corals. Most soft corals do well in captivity. Leather corals would be a good first along with xenia. Do search the Wet Web Media for coral selection, compatibility etc. Much info is present there.> Thanks again for your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Aaron New to marine 06/08/05 Hi guys and gals, I've been keeping fresh water for about 10 years now but have only really figured out (read-> taken the time to find out) what I am doing over the last two years. I'm looking at starting a marine tank early next year and am researching like crazy to try and get it right (or as close as I can on a first try). So I've been reading a lot of your FAQ's and have come to some sort of a conclusion. <<Very good>> If you have time I'd like your opinion on the following fit out for the system I am considering. I'm particularly interested in where the $$$ should be spent for quality gear (so far I'd consider this to be in the lighting and skimmer). In saying that I'll also be on the look out for local second hand set ups over the next 6 months- but if I buy one it will mainly be for the equipment- not the tank as my wife has some strong opinions (read--> rules) on what the tank will look like. << Quality gear is definitely a must. The skimmer is a good place to focus on but quality does not always mean most expensive.. Do some searches on this site for skimmer FAQ and you will see a lot of info on this subject. I personally like the EuroReef for people that do not want to mess with tuning much. And the AquaC is also a very good line of skimmers in my opinion. >> I'll be setting up a 4 by 2 by 2 foot tank (110gal) as a reef system with a minimal number of the smaller fish (clowns, blennies- I need to research more on this) and soft corals. I haven't picked any particular type of soft corals yet as I need to make a trip to the city to see what is available). The gear to go with it. a.. A trip to the local library to read up more on marine tanks! b.. Metal halide lighting system 10,000K, 150-175W range, 1 or 2 sets depending on how many I need to light the tank. No particular brand picked. c.. Protein skimmer- have been looking on the net, possibly a PS10SE from DB Reeftech (a local Australian group making custom skimmers) or an Aqua C EV-180. Have any of you seen/heard any reviews about DB Reeftech skimmers? d.. Below tank sump- size to be determined (but probably as big as I can fit in the cabinet). No special plans for the sump other than mounting the skimmer and heater in it. Sump recirculation rate probably 500GPH with a further 500GPH recirculation rate via power heads in tank (unless I can get the full 1000GPH recirc rate via the sump- dependent on pump selection). Sump to be fed via an in tank overflow weir (multi bottom outlet- say 2 * 1 inch discharges). Sump return to be via one or more outlets (two planned if full flow directed through the sump). e.. Aragonite base sand- approx 2mm grain size about 1 inch thick- no plenum f.. Quantity of limestone "dead" rock -I'm really lucky where I am- I was able to get some awesome large pieces of coastal limestone rock that has been weathered/eroded and appears to have been previously part of a reef (or it could just be weathering- they came from cave country). I've got a couple of layered "towers" about 1-1.5 feet high with multiple shelves that will look great in the corners and a crescent moon piece 2 foot wide by 1 foot deep but only 1.5-2inches thick for a central feature -sorry- enthusiasm getting away from me ;) g.. Quantity of live rock to be added- probably only 10-20kg (it costs $12/kg here- unless I find some good stuff cheaper). If I start small on the live rock I'll have a corresponding small bio load and increase slowly over a period of months dependent on nitrate trends. h.. Two 200W heaters (may only need 2 * 150W- I'll check what the tanks down at the LFS are using on the large displays and go the same or slightly less). i.. Hardness and pH test kits (already have nitrate, nitrite and ammonia for my FW tank- I'm keeping Lake Malawi cichlids on an aragonite base and the pH looks after itself). <<Do get some quality saltwater test kits such as Salifert>> My LFS has recommended a canister filter to go with the system and I will look into this for mechanical filtration but it may be just as good to put incorporate a sponge filter in the sump downstream of the skimmer (due to low anticipated fish stocking level relative to coral/live rock). As you can see I have much to research on the actual tank stocking but it's likely I'll make a list of what is available and then see what goes along with the theme I am looking for. Thanks for whatever help/advice you can offer. <<Looks like you are on the right foot. Do a search on this site for the skimmer FAQ. Also make sure you do things slowly. A lot of people just jump in and do not take their time to really let the tank establish. Once this happens you will have much better success >> Regards, Dan from Oz. << Good luck.. EricS >> - Tank Setup Questions - Good day Bob or other helpful crew member, <Hi, it's other helpful crew member here...> I am in the process of planning/designing my new 120g reef aquarium and I just wanted to take the opportunity to express how helpful the above book and your website have been so far. <Glad to hear.> I believe I have already made most of the decisions I need to make with regards to my new system, including filtration methods, water circulation, tank dimensions, diy projects etc, mostly using the information and concepts I've learned from your site and in "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist". The type of lighting to use is something that's still baffling me a bit, but other than that I am almost ready to start with the project. (At first I thought Metal halides is the obvious choice for me, but after reading the book I'm suddenly not so sure, because it seems that Full Spectrum Fluorescent lights might be a better choice, if I understand it correctly.) <Really depends on the animals you want to keep.> The only question I have for you today is - before I start buying equipment and setting up, would it be okay if I sent you a diagram or two of my planned setup with brief descriptions so that you can tell me if you have any concerns with it? <Sure.> Thanks again for the great support Chris <Cheers, J -- > Marine set-up input Bob, <Frank> I just purchased a used 85 gallon Tenecor Flat Back Hex w/simplicity plus filtration, (the filtration- bioballs/sump, is built into the back 4" of the tank), and I’d like your opinion on a few matters. <Okay... but you and they may not like them> Additional info: the tank has 2 AquaClear 802 pumps to recycle the water, (located in the filtration area, there is nothing in the stand). There is an overflow chamber where you can add an internal protein skimmer, <These are feeble> a separate chamber for mechanical and chemical filtration, <Difficult to service, reach> a chamber for the heater and lastly the area containing bioballs & pumps. I plan on starting with FOWLR then progressing towards a reef tank. Net of the filtration area the tank would hold approximately 72 gallons of water. 1) Would you remove the bioballs and drill the tank to add a sump in the stand or leave the filtration as is? <Oh! I'd drill it and re-do the tank, filtration now... no sense waiting> I could use a hang on skimmer in the existing setup or place a skimmer in the new sump, (after drilling). I’m thinking of either the Aqua C Remora Pro, (HOB), or Urchin Pro (for sump), would like the Aqua C EV 120. <I'd go with the latter> 2) This tank came with a 4 inch canopy, which I'd like to use. What would you suggest as far as lighting in this cramped area? I'd eventually like to add SPS & LPS corals. I don’t think I can use MH because it's too close to the tank and I'm afraid of melting the canopy or acrylic, (the tank came with 2 X 95 watts VHOs). I’m thinking of adding another 2X 110 VHOs for a total of 410 watts. <This is about optimum for this system> 3) If I were to drill the tank could you recommend a return pump, (how much gph is required for this type of setup). <This is posted on WWM... if no refugium, a calculated about ten times turn over per hour> 4) Regarding water movement, I could use the 2 AquaClear powerheads but do you have a better suggestion, (without getting too costly)? (2X MaxiJet 1200?) <Both good choices for powerheads... a recirculating manifold would be better, but maybe better to wait, install on your next system> Lastly, 5) The tank also came with a Rainbow 8W UV sterilizer, should I incorporate this into the system? <I'd toss it... too puny to be of use here> It’s taken me 2 years of research to get to this point so I’d like to do things as correct as possible. I took Adam’s and your advice and I’m now a member of the L.I. Reef Association, (since 11/04). Your opinion is valued, Frank <As is yours. Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Check over my design PLEASE! True about the water flow. I would like to have 2 overflow boxes one on each side of the tank. <If this system is not yet filled, up and running, I strongly encourage you to have it drilled, fitted with permanent overflows> Then pvc piped to the first tanks. The first tank will have partial filtering and then bio balls. I ended up making the refugium on the weekend. I made it like a pond in my basement. I made it 5 feet by 3 feet by 1.5 feet high. I plan on putting corals and live rock in there after I get everything running smooth. To see. But if I bought crushed coral would it be better in the tank or in the refugium. <Either, both> Then put just sand in the tank? I decided on using 2 skimmers because of this article I read. IT said that you need 2 minutes for a air bubble to fully attach itself to the nitrite. <Mmm, not so... though the more time in contact, generally the better. But fine to have just one good skimmer> Then it said that a 5 inch skimmer is perfect. So I thought that I would go a bit smaller and go with two. Won't hurt to go with two. My biggest question was about lighting. Metal halides are the way to go. I'm thinking 2 MH 15,000k, what other lighting would I need I know florescent. But which ones do you think? Thanks <I think you should be studying... on WWM, elsewhere. Please take your time here... consider lots of inputs... the rationale behind them... make up your own mind. Bob Fenner> Risky Dweeb Planning A Dream Tank! Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> At the risk of sounding like a complete dweeb, I'll set it all on the line for you. In our 5-year plan, my hubby and I hope to be building a home for ourselves and our family. I'm addicted to marine aquariums (and cats, lol!), and we've already decided to put in a minimum 300 gallon tank in our new home. 300-500 gallons really. <Awesome!> It'll probably be in-wall, with one side facing our family room and the other facing the cat kennel we hope to build eventually. <Cool for the kitties!> My question for y'all is multifaceted. First off, do you have any recommendations on how I could find a good custom aquarium contractor (in the Phoenix area)? <I'd start by contacting Tenecor, a major aquarium manufacturer right in your area, I believe. They can manufacture tanks to your specs, and perhaps can recommend a contractor who can do some of the work.> Secondly, I have years to plan this tank, but I don't really know where to begin. If you were planning your dream tank (to include all types of corals, inverts and fish that won't kill each other or grow to be 8 feet long), where would you start? <Well, you've taken your first steps by visiting WWM! I'd probably start by studying some pictures and articles about natural reef biotopes, and try to emulate a zone on the reef that appeals to you. Make a list of the animals that you want to keep, as well as their requirements. Realize that you cannot have everything in the tank, but you can compromise. Think about animal requirements and compatibility, and design your system to meet their needs.> How deep is the deepest you would recommend for a tank? <I t really is a matter of personal preference, but I would think about maintenance on a deep tank, which can be difficult. I'd personally avoid anything over 36" deep, but that is just me. Also, if you need to light animals that have high light requirements well below the surface, you'll need lots of light to do this. That equals large electrical bills, etc.!> If this was your dream tank, would you use a fuge? <I would.> How big? <As large as possible> What kind of lighting? <Depends on the animals and their requirements.> Skimmer? <Absolutely mandatory, IMO.> Would you use an ozonizer? <I don't, but they are extremely useful.> Kalkwasser? <I'd go for a calcium reactor, myself.> There's so much to think about, and I really don't know where to start. I have about 3 years to plan. How can I become the best aquarist I can be during that time? <I'd start by doing your homework. Again, think about what you want to keep, and design the system and equipment to accommodate their needs. You can't go wrong this way, IMO.> Thank you SOOOO much for your amazing website and any help you choose to give me! Becky <My pleasure, Becky! I'm sorry I can't give you all of the advice that you'll need right here, but the learning is part of the fun. Keep doing what you're doing, and take your time to get it right. Divide your planning into tasks, such as "equipment", "animals", "infrastructure", etc., and accumulate all of the needed information for those areas...Keep learning and reading...Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Re: 210 gallon set up Bob, Hello again. Euroreef is still down. Do you know of anyway to contact them? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euroreefskimmers.htm> For my 210 gal I am thinking it should be the CS8-2 or CS8-3 or the very expensive CS8-4. The CS8-3 is within my budget the CS8-4 is stretching my budget. I'm going to buy the book "The Conscientious Aquarist". Does it provide a lot of advice and how to's? <Quite a bit... though the book, as all others is "dated", necessarily general in its information re makes/models... best to seek out individuals input re such issues through querying BBs> Any other books you can recommend with sound how to get started advice would be helpful. <This is posted... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bldgaqlib.htm and the links...> Should I cycle with the bioballs and eventually eliminate them? <Please read... on WWM... the indices, search tool...> On another topic, I was reading through your website (yet again) and behold a new concern. There are pages on the topic of noise from overflow boxes. I haven't purchased the tank...yet. Should I go with no overflow boxes? <Yes... if you can avoid...> If no overflow box where should I have them drill holes etc or does your book answer these types of questions? <Not as well as the posted files on WWM> I do appreciate your advice. I have gotten so very much bad advice in the past from people with self serving interests and I have lost fish out of ignorance on my part. Sincerely Maricel <Do keep studying my friend... you will greatly benefit from having to not re-do things... Bob Fenner> Marine Set Up Hello Guys, <Hello Marlon> I appreciate you all taking your time to help.... I am currently upgrading from a 20 gallon to a 107 gallon tank I need to buy a few things. Pump, what do you recommend I want the best quality and low noise. <I normally look for one that has the lowest current consumption, they generally are the better pumps anyway.> Lights, what kind and what would be best? <Depends on whether it's reef or FOWLR.> What kind of Filter would you recommend, Mud, system which one? <That is your choice, I favor the mud filters.> What kind of UV Sterilizer? <I don't recommend sterilizers.> Do I need a Phosban? Any other type of added options etc.? <Good maintenance will eliminate the need for these.> Please help me make the best possible decision so I know what to purchase, I appreciate your time and help. <Marlon, do a goggle search on the Wet Web, keyword "Set Up" and you will find plenty of info there that will help you make a decision. Same with filters. James (Salty Dog) > New Saltwater Tank Hello my name is Mike... <Hello Mike> ...and I have recently got into fish and aquariums. I started out a few months ago with a small freshwater aquarium and as a gift I got a 55 gallon aquarium that I would like to make saltwater. I am clueless on how to do this. I have gotten a few tips but I really have no concept of how things work. I am asking you what a skimmer is and approximately how much it would cost to set the tank up (live rock, coral, sand, and lighting). If you could please email me back with the cost of each thing individually and combined, that would be greatly appreciated. <Mike, this is a great site for newbies. You will find all the info you need on the Wet Web. I will post two links for you to get started. As far as the cost of these items, it varies from LFS to LFS. It's something you will have to do. Anyway here are the links. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/ http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm. This will get you started. Any other info you would like....just type in the key word on the Wet Web and you will have several choices. Good luck in your new hobby. One thing to remember is this hobby does require patience. You will see. James (Salty Dog)> Thank you very much. <You're welcome> Starting new tank 7/20/05 Hello crew. <Hi> I have a 90 gallon hexagonal flat back with two built in overflows draining into a wet/dry system (don't know what brand). the wet/dry system in turn pumps water into my ETSS evolution 500 which is powered by a mag 9.5. outflowing water will enter a 20 gallon tank, which I will be using as a refugium, then water returns back into the tank. I have an estimated 644 watts in powercompact lighting and 110 watt VHO. <Lighting is more than sufficient.> My intent is to have corals. At least one Acropora. maybe about 150# live rock. 2" sand bed. numerous blennies, gobies, Chromis( mainly small fish) and maybe a tang, some sand stirrers. No money for a calcium reactor yet, and I'm kind of iffy on using it. seems complicated. I was just wondering if i can dose calcium supplements manually.<Certainly> Would it be a problem for the corals? <No>, or is a calcium reactor a must have for a reef system. <Not a must have. Something else to tinker with.> Tank water will be moved by 4 maxi-jet 1200. well, anything else you think I would need to run a reef tank? <I would not advise a tang in a hex. They need more swimming room than the hex can provide. Do a google search on WWM, keyword, "setup" and "corals". Please capitalize your "I's" and beginning of sentences in the future. It sure saves our editor time in correcting these before posting. James (Salty Dog)> Tell me about marine aquarium keeping 7/7/05 Hi guys I am now lost after reading all this info on your site. <Specifics... lost re what?> I am setting up a new tank 200gal. that has a 75gal. sump. the main tank has two one inch drains and two 3/4 returns. I could add more if needed. What is the best filter setup. skimmer, mud, wetdry, live rock or what? <Heeeeee! For what?> I don't mind spending the money. <Mmm, well, "money is time"... Spend some studying a bit more... I suggest a good general marine text... easier to understand than even the "better than Dear Abby" method we have developing for organizing topics on the subject... WWM> I just want the best for the long term for my fish and coral with the least amount of work and the cleanest tank on the planet. LOL . Is there a do all best of the best setup for me out there? thanks Toni Wielock <Depends on a few factors in turn... for instance, what sorts of livestock you intend to keep... what you want to do with it... how much time/trouble you want to put into maintenance... Read on! Bob Fenner> Good Price for a Tank Hi I recently contacted a man about a 135 gallon tank. he wants 400 hundred dollars everything included is this a good deal. I feel a bit ripped off with my pet store a bought a 55 gallon with everything for 500 dollars was this too much? <Prices are relative for what you get. I go to swap meets all the time looking for antique aquarium stuff and see used tanks all the time. Every time I see a set up I look closely at it to see where the person went wrong with the tank. Sometimes the filters are too small or they have the wrong kind of gravel or rocks but it is usually something. When I am out shopping for a tank I am always thinking what am I going to use this tank for. If I am interested in breeding large fish then I look at the larger tanks and look at the age of the tank, the condition of the tank, florescent lighting, adequate filtration and the decorations. If the 135 is old then I would add the price of a new heater in the equation. With the old tank you get no guarantee and you don't know when a piece of equipment will fail on you because you don't know how long it was used for or if it was properly serviced. With the 55 you knew everything was brand new and there was a guarantee against leaks. The fish store needs to make a profit to stay in business and tanks aren't cheap to start with. A 55 gallon perfecto tank at Wal-Mart right now I believe is around $120 with the basics to get you started. Sand, fish, decorations, background and stand could easily run a couple hundred dollars more. It all depends on what you want and what you feel comfortable with.-Chuck> thanks a lot New Reef Tank Set-Up Dear Wet Web Media Crew: <Steven Pro this morning.> I wrote to you recently about a new tank that I had ordered. It was to be a 60 gallon flat back hex. Long story short, I chickened out and decided to go with glass since acrylic scratches so easy. Anyway the new tank will be here in a few weeks and I wanted to run it by you to see if you have any thing you would change. It's a 58 gallon Oceanic Reef Ready tank and it will have a special 12" high canopy that has doors that open like a cupboard in which to place 1-250watt MH 10,000k bulb. The LFS guy is going to place 2 or 3 fans in the hood and there will be no glass cover for the tank (will I escape buying a chiller?). <It depends on your room temperature. Try to keep the water temperature from fluctuating more than 2 degrees between day and night with a maximum of 82F.> The tank measures 36.5"x18.5"x21.5". There will be an Eco System with 5 pounds of Miracle Mud (is this enough?) in the lower compartment. <It depends on the Mud compartment size. I would go with Leng Sy's recommendations.> The LFS guy will place Caulerpa (sp) in the system which will be lit 24/7. He said I am not to use a protein skimmer that it would defeat the Miracle Mud purpose. <I am a big fan of skimmers. I would perform a Google search of the WWM site for Ecosystem, Miracle Mud, and Leng Sy.> I plan on ordering about 30 pounds of Florida aquacultured LR and 30 pounds of Marshall Island LR (is this enough?). <30 lbs. of Florida aquacultured stuff is not a lot of rock because it is so dense.> He said it should be cured before it's introduced to the tank. I plan on having about a 1/2" sand bed (pink flamingo). I eventually want to have softies and LPS corals and about 3 to 4 fish. <The 250 watt MH sounds like overkill for LPS and soft corals. Look for a 175 watt 10,000 K Aqualine-Buschke lamp.> Is this a good set up? <See above notes.> Do I need to add power heads for circulation? <I do not like to use them if I can get away with it. They are kind of ugly and add heat to the water.> The LFS guy will put a Rio 2500 in for the return. Is this enough, and is the Rio dependable? <I would prefer a larger pump, the RIO 2500 is rated for about 700 gph at no head pressure, external mounted pump. Something around 1000 gph at no head pressure with multiple outlets. You can build a simple loop of 1" PVC around the tank perimeter with four 3/4" outlet T's. These T's should have adjustable piping at their ends for control.> I've heard horror stories about them! Thanks for the help.....I really appreciate it. Janey <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Cycled but need to slow down I recently got a 37gal Eclipse3 tank. In addition to the Eclipse3 wet-dry filter, I added a Sea Storm 100 fluid bed filter with a MaxiJet 1000 (950 l/h handling) and a medium Coralife protein skimmer. I started the tank the day after Christmas, as instructed by my Marine Aquarium handbook. Day 2, I added a mix of 5 Damsels (2 yellow tailed blue, and 3 domino) On day 3, two of my dominos lay gasping on their sides in the bottom. I had to give them the Urban Burial if you know what I mean. The other 3 fish were stressed pretty bad. Rapid gilling and noted agitation. I tested my water and did what I could, and the rest of the fish have survived since. Since I'm new at this, I made the number one mistake of over feeding and wound up last week with a bloom of brown algae and some kind of white foamy stuff (I thought were damsel eggs at first until I thought about it). I've been testing my water ever since day one and my levels haven't changed much.... no cycle that I can tell. Getting impatient, I made the trek to the local pet store and picked up 10 lbs of Fiji live rock, 6 blue leg hermits, 2 emerald crabs, and 2 brittle stars. All hopefully good foamy white, and brown algae eaters. The hermits have done a nice job of cleaning the coral gravel bottom. The real question I have here is my nitrogen cycle. My ammonia levels haven't budged. But I've had detectable NO2 and NO3 levels all along. (Ammonia runs between .5 and 1 ppm, NO2 runs from .2 or .3 ppm, and NO3 is a solid 10ppm). I did use a BioChem Bead seed that the pet store had in an aquarium for a month already. So what's going on with my cycle? Is it possible I've just lucked into an equilibrium? I realize I've got a ton of bio filtration going on, the BioChem bead are in the charcoal filter bed of the eclipse and the Sea Storm is cranking. Could this be taking care of my ammonia ? If so where are the Nitrogen based by-products going? <Wow Raleigh, you're having the bacterial biological warfare blues and how! At this point, please take a breather of about a month before doing anything further than just routine maintenance (no more critters). Your system and filtration additions are adequate for doing what I think you have in mind... and what happened/is happening is not to be unexpected... it is, as stated above, a blend of successions of new, opportunistic and competing mini life forms getting situated... and they will "stabilize" in a short while if you don't change "the rules for playing in the sandbox". Your system has "cycled" by the conventional sense of nitrification, but is being/has been overwhelmed by protein inputs (food, dead fish, wash from the live rock and its curing....) Just hold on and hold off at this point and start studying up for what types of fishes you want to eventually house. BTW, for other browsers, I categorically do not encourage the standard "damsel destruction" as a technique of "running in" a new system. Live Rock and/or sand, even old media are far more satisfactory in the short, medium and long haul. Bob Fenner> Skimmer Too Small? Fish Dying I have a 125 gal. tank that has been set up for about 1 1/2 years. It has a UV filter, Eheim canister, a wet/dry sump, several power heads and about 2-3 months ago I added a protein skimmer. When I bought the tank, I went with the recommendation of the fish store and got the wet/dry sump over the protein skimmer. After reading your book, and talking to another fish store, I bought the skimmer. My problem is keeping fish alive. I just lost a Juv. Imperator angel that I had for about a year. Prior to that, some fish would last a few days to a few weeks. The water always has tested OK except for the nitrate level, which has generally been around 60ppm. After I installed the protein skimmer, the level slowly came down to around 20ppm and I thought I was finally making headway on the problem. After the Imperator died, I checked the water again and it had climbed back up to around 40ppm. I have always done weekly or bi-weekly water changes of 15-20% using RO water. Help! I’m down to 3 fish that seem to be doing OK (2 tangs and an angel). I’m afraid to get any more fish. I’m wondering if the protein skimmer is too small. I empty the collection cup every few days of about a cup or so of liquid. I’m not sure what size the skimmer is, again I just went with the salesman's recommendation. In your book you state the wet/dry sumps are ‘nitrate factories’, am I spinning my wheels have both the sump and protein skimmer? Where do I go from here? <Andy, I sense and feel your pain. Re: the skimmer, does it produce "foam" continuously? It should not. Instead there ought to appear a sort of cyclicity with the unit gathering more and less during different parts of the day. But more to the point, no, you are not doing anything "wrong" by operating a wet dry and a skimmer (millions do). There are a few approaches that would get you big help, but the best (that will also drop those not-really-so-important nitrates down) is to add a good quantity of live rock. Buy a box or two of cured rock and write me in a month or two to tell us how it's all going. Bob Fenner> Inappropriate Stocking, Now What? Well, trying to put it all together... set up a 55 gal tank and lost a lot of fish in the first 6th months, no one knew why. Tangs, Clowns, Wrasses - none seemed to survive. Well, finally switched to a Moray Eel, Niger Trigger, Grouper and some Anemones, Star Corals & Sea Urchins. Carnivores seem much more stable, but of course I am loosing all invertebrates. Anyway, question is "what do I do now"? The guys in my tank are no doubt going to become way too large (when?) and I really don't want to keep a 55 tank for a couple of fish. This must be a common problem - get into the live feeder mode and then there is no escape. Love your thoughts as to what to do. Ride it out as my guys get bigger and BIGGER, start over, or what. By the way, these guys do look REALLY cool... <Yeah, Sky, your situation is all too familiar, and I suspect a common path for "hobbyist burnout". What to do? I'd start all the way back, as in figuring out for yourself why you wanted (or what you wanted to get) out of your involvement in the hobby. And I wouldn't do it alone; I suggest you team up with another hobbyist or more and visit their set-ups, go to the livestock fish stores with them, and have a real one on one understanding of what your options are. Yes, the fishes you have are going to be getting too big for that 55. Yes, you can and maybe should trade them in at the LFS for credit and start with a more cohesive stocking plan. Do you have a spare/alternative system you can quarantine new livestock in? Did anyone ever explain how hard it is to keep non-fishes to you? Do you pre-mix your synthetic seawater for a week or more before use? Taking your apparent interest and concern and forming it into a plan of action is critical at this point. I would hate to lose you, and the folks you will help to enjoy themselves through an appreciation of the living aquatic world, for a lack of help. Bob Fenner> New Tank Ammonia Spike I am setting up a 75 gal reef for the first time. I had water at 1.022 , 77* F, with approx 80 lbs of base rock, RO water, skimmer in sump, for three days with no fish animals etc . Skimmer was producing lots of foam. As soon as I introduced 20 lbs of cured live rock and some snails , crabs, and four Damsels, the foam stopped .The next day I checked the ammonia level, it was high , so I did a 10% water change . Is this normal? What else should I be doing? Thanks, Dave <Sounds quite normal... almost predictable. The organisms that were introduced by/on the live rock "used up" the materials that could be attracted by the air bubbles in your skimmer... and some part of the biota of/on the live rock is/was dying, contributing to the ammonia concentration... No worries... keep an eye on the ammonia (keep it under 1 ppm.) and don't feed your livestock if it is getting near there... all will self-straighten in a few days. Bob Fenner> Re: Confusion Hi Mr. Fenner, <Anthony Calfo with the follow up> Thanks for replying back to my message - Your input has helped me to define what I want. However, you still left out one important detail: my question about the optimal/ideal combination of filter types for a reef system ... <ideal and optimum would be best determined after deciding which animals you will keep first and what their needs/sensitivities are. Else, we must accept a more generalized ideal based on what you are likely to keep.> You suggested I drop the canister filter - So I am now left with the Aqua C protein Skimmer .. What else can I use with that ? <skimmers and live rock alone provide the foundation of a very successful and low maintenance system. Some carbon/chemical media (in a small power filter perhaps) and regular water changes round out the list nicely> Does this then leave me with just the wet/dry trickle filter ( which you state does cause nitrate problems )and lastly the undergravel filter, in that order of choice? <ughhh... neither. Nitrate producing machines that are only necessary if you will overfeed or prefer to keep large messy fish (the lesser of two evils then)> If I add the wet/dry filter, what is the best way to deal with the nitrate problem? <use a deep sand bed and live rock instead of a W/D filter if you intend to have a "typical" reef with small and medium fishes> In Bob's book, it states about Wet/dry filters - " .. it has an important shortcoming - nitrate accumulation-that has caused most reef aquarist to move on to newer and better models". Such as? Any recommendations ? <as above> Secondly, you suggest I leave the powerheads out entirely and use 2 large external pumps with several outlet ports. Can this set up be rigged with a controller to simulate waves and such ? <yes... although not necessary or even beneficial. Very tricky to pull off successfully. It is more important to have dynamic flow which most of us as aquarists are lacking in our tanks. I also strongly prefer external water pumps... directed through outlets to converge in the display to create strong random turbulent water motion. Optimal for coral growth and health in captivity> Sumps - how often do these end up in disasters ? <don't follow the question? Tanks with siphon over flows are disasters. Tanks with drilled overflows and properly calculated/designed sumps are foolproof and a tremendous advantage to most any system> Once again, thanks ... Victor Acquah <best regards, Anthony Calfo>
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