Keep up the good work
Hi WW ers--
<Howdy>
First off, appreciate your efforts to educate!  I have been keeping marines since the 70's so I guess that makes me an old timer.
<Mmm, not that old...>
When I started UGF and 6 inches of dolomite on epoxy coated Metaframes was de riguer, then again if you could even find anything past a damsel or occasional  lion, you were lucky! An observation-I recall in those days a 'Dr. Lee' (?)  of Singapore (?) <Likely Lee Chen Eng... I actually met him> who was a proponent of  a system that amounts to now as a FOWLR set up today.
<Yes, his/the "natural method"... worked then, works now... same universe>
In those days he was considered more or less a heretic! Now it seems he's been vindicated - proving once again the simplest route is always a straight line!
<Actually a curve as they say, but likely a "normal" or smooth one.>
Another observation - I've read and re-read practically every book published on the subject over the years and am still learning. Amazing to me the newcomers who
drop thousands on equipment but think they can peruse one manufacturer's pamphlet and be set! To me, this hobby is all about continuous learning-all best equipment in the world won't make up for a basic lack of chemistry/livestock/ husbandry knowledge. Thanks for your time..!
Zack
<Well-stated. Bob Fenner>

Anthias and Reef Setup 10/21/03
Hi Anthony:
<cheers>
Thanks again for all the help thinking through these issues.  I have been doing more reading and thinking and have formulated a tentative plan....and wanted to get your thoughts on a few discreet issues.
<OK>
To recap...110 gallon reef-ready tank, 40 gallon sump, 60 gallons total refugium space (2 x 30 gallon tanks).  I made a mistake when I wrote you before, as my tank is actually 30" high...not the 24" that I told you. Sorry, the tank's in storage and I checked lately.
<no worries... all about coral placement in the tank (easy of shallow positions)>
Anyway, what I have decided that I would really like is to have a sort of "reef top" look in the long term.  By this I mean a selection of Acropora, etc. that would grow from the top of a low seamount set up in the tank (maybe 12-18" tall to start...I imagine keeping the rest of the required LR in the sump).  What I imagine is these corals growing their branches up toward the surface and creating a beautiful "forest" for the anthias and a
few others to swim around in. Okay, now my questions.  1) Is this workable in the long term or am I overlooking obvious problems with the setup (I'm sure people have tried this, but I've never actually seen a tank of this sort)?  
<has been done/can be done.. sounds/is beautiful>
2)  If this is the route that I decide to go, would your previous
recommendation of 2 x 175 w MH lighting still be optimal?  
<with corals at 18" depth and wanting vigorous growth... you may well be a candidate for 250 watt halides, or even 400 watters if leaning toward 20K lamps (so blue heavy)>
3)  If you have a guess, what do you think I'm looking at as far as monthly outlay on CA, Alk buffer, carbon, etc. to get this tank growing well and maintain optimum growth and health in the long term (I definitely don't want to realize later that this was a horribly expensive mistake...at the expense of my corals.)
I'm assuming that a CA reactor would be the way to go in such a CA-intensive system.  
<correct... the CA reactor is the best long term value/option>
4)  Please feel free to dissuade or encourage with any other tips
or warnings that your experience requires that I consider before proceeding.
<all sounds fine so far>
5)  Finally, if this is workable, could you give me a list of 4-5 of your top species choices for creating the desired effect in a manageable system?
<species of coral, or fishes? Hmmm... at any rate, this is really a matter of personal preference. Do make a list of your own and let others review it for a consensus/perspective. >
I have a few of my own but would appreciate access to your far greater experience with these creatures.
<there are hundreds of possible choices here... and we struggle to find the time to answer the mail we have with specific questions, my friend. Do send your list if you like and we can offer perspective>
Once again, thanks to you and all of the Crew for your invaluable
assistance.  Bob did a great service setting this site up and pulling all of you together!!  Take care, Greg.
<agreed... it is a great thing Bob has done/started here :) With kind regards, Anthony>

Huge Fish Tank - No, Seriously, This is HUGE
>My father recently has passed away and while my mother and I were cleaning out the storage barn we came across a home made fish tank.
>>I'm sorry to hear of your father's passing.
> (Mother thought he got rid of it before I was born) it has got to be 600-800 gallons, I can lay down in it and it comes up to my chin, I am 6'1", biggest damned tank I have ever seen.  
>>Good God!  Well.. let's see here, to calculate capacity we'll multiply (in inches) length x width x depth = (X) Then divide (X) by 231 (the number of inches in a cubic gallon).  Since the glass is so thick interior measurements would be best.
>The glass is about one inch thick, maybe thicker.  Well needless to say I salvaged it.  With much help from my buddies at work.  One U-haul truck and much beer we got it to my house.  I know the
slab will hold it because there used to be an onion and potato cellar where the tank is, I filled it all up with rebar and cement.  It is at least six feet thick.   
>>Sweet Christ on a crutch!  That is some SERIOUS slab.
>I filled the tank and it held water except for a small pinhole
near the top.  I got some tank sealer and let the water sit for two days no wet stuff except for the sweating of the tank.  
>>I'm assuming by "tank sealer" you mean pure silicone.
>My question is this.  I also was given a small tank by next-door neighbor, when she moved to Arizona, or some such place, that has one salt water fish in it, a damsel I think is what she called it.  
>>There exists a creature called such.  It is comprised of MANY species.
>I was wondering what I would need to fire up this big tank
as a salt water tank.  Warning: I know next to nothing about fish except how to cook them.  
>>And NOT how to catch 'em?  Tsk, tsk.  ;)  My friend, what you need are a couple of books.  I'm going to suggest "The Marine Aquarium Handbook" (or similar, as it's been a while since I've purchased from this author) by Martin Moe, Jr.  In my opinion a MUST HAVE for DIY saltwater enthusiasts.  Also, to help get you on your way I will also suggest the book written by the infamous Bob Fenner, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" (soon to be followed by "The Contentious Marine Aquarist").  I suppose we really should comprise a list of books for folks.. in any event...
>Oh yeah there is also a small filter for a pool that holds sand my mom said he used that to filter the water. Can I use that?  
>>Oh my.. I suppose you could, assuming it's not been contaminated with anything and still functions properly, that IS the big question though, yes?  Otherwise, I don't see why not, though I wouldn't make it the only form of filtration.  The books would do much to help you understand functionality of different filtration systems, but in my opinion a seriously BIG foam fractionator would be in order here.  Between those two you should be able to do quite nicely.
>I asked my mom why he had this fish tank.  She said something about wanting to keep his own stock of bass.  I think he tried to breed them for food.
>>Man after my own heart, they're good eating and I hate tossing back a fish that comes from a reservoir in an area it never would have existed in were it not for being PUT there by someone else in the first place.  The trout I'll throw back.
>I have seen on the internet that saltwater tanks are costly and full of gadgets I have no idea what they are like wet/dry drip filters.  Some even have garbage cans for some kind filtration.
>>Oh yes.  If you get one of the books by Martin Moe you'll see that he outlines how to make your own filter, I've done it myself in just this way (modified for my own needs) based on his writings.  It really reduces cost, though it's not the prettiest in the world.  
>Cost is, well, I can't say not a problem, but I can handle around $5000 dollars without hurting myself in initial outlay.  If this is not enough to start my tank I would still like a list of what I will need and I will buy what I can and buy the rest as I can.  I do not know if this make a difference but I want a fish and a reef
tank.  
>>Yes, this makes a difference, absolutely.  What's going to cost you most at this point is your research, but it is well worth it.  To set up a reef system of 600-800 gallons is the dream of many my friend.  I would see if that sand filter is working properly, and in the meantime research online (expect MANY folks to tell you it can't work!) that it is definitely properly sized for such a large saltwater system.  Just remember, this is as much an art as a science.  Be sure to do this first, as well as getting at least the first couple of books.  Some links: http://www.anybook4less.com/detail/0939960052.html
http://www.anybook4less.com/detail/0939960079.html
http://www.anybook4less.com/detail/1883693128.html
http://www.anybook4less.com/detail/1890087025.html
>Thanks a lot guys (gals) beforehand. Craig
>>You're quite welcome, Craig, I hope you have fun with this!  Marina

- Tank Set-up -
Dear Bob,
I was wondering if you know of any sites that tell how to setup saltwater tanks (because I don't really want to spend $185 for my LFS to set it up) thanks.
Adam
<Dude... did you look around before you sent this email? Pardon my exasperation, but we [the Wet Web Media staff who answer these questions] have been storing these answers for several years now in addition to writing articles about the same. There is an entire section on our web site dedicated to answering your questions. Please look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
Cheers, J -- >

A New Setup
Hello again...<And hello! Ryan with you today> I haven't written in about a year b/c I exited the hobby for
a while (too long to explain), but am looking to get back in. <Great!> I'm doing a
lot more research this time around and would like to set up an in-wall tank
in my basement. <Sounds sweet> I have plenty of time, because this setup will not be
started until my basement is finished-might take up to a year until that
happens. <I assure you- Makes it much more probable that your tank will flourish.>
For now, I'm plowing through your FAQs, buying your books and basically just
trying to figure out which way to go. For now, I'm leaning toward a
125-gallon All-Glass tank with twin overflows. <Nice selection> I heard about their new
Durso-type overflows from your FAQs, so I contacted the company and they are
sending me brochures via snail-mail. Initially, I plan to start with just a
FOWLR tank, because that's what I had before. However, I want to provide for
much flexibility, since my longer term goal is to turn it into a reef tank.
I'd hate to have to do tons of reconfiguring and purchasing of new equipment
to make the transition.
As I mentioned, I've been reading through your FAQs and reading your books,
but it can be difficult to settle on a final design due to the varying
opinions. Not complaining, as I believe varying opinions can be very
beneficial. <Surely>
I'm sure as I move through my long design phase that I'll have many more
questions for you, but here are just a few for starters-well, a lot of this
isn't posed as questions, per se, but rather just my thoughts thrown out
there for your feedback.
I'd like to use the Berlin method, but I don't want a DSB in the display. <Not aesthetically pleasing, especially to non-aquarists.  Only a hard core reefer will sit and stare at a sand bed for hours!>
Since this will be in-wall, I just don't think I'll like the looks of 4-6
inches of sand. I was thinking of just using maybe ¼-1/2 inches of very fine
sand in the main display for aesthetic purposes. <Sounds fine>
I also am intrigued by the EcoSytem method, so I was thinking that maybe I
could employ this and the Berlin method--Perhaps a sump, say a 55-gallon
aquarium, as well as an Ecosystem refugium. Would a DSB in the sump be
beneficial? <Yes, certainly> Is 55-gallons too big? <Never> Asked differently, what surface area and
depth (i.e. volume) of sand would be good for the 125-gal main display?  <The more of a sandbed you can manage, the more your water quality will benefit.  Keep it between 4-6 inches, and make sure to get a nice handful of live sand to seed.>
Smaller would be better when considering space available. For the Ecosystem
refugium, I would follow the company's advice and use their mud as well as
macro algae-I don't think I'll use Caulerpa due to your warnings about it. <Good, it can be a real pain.  Plenty of alternatives that are just as good for nutrient export.  I'm not sure I've ever seen a setup using both Ecosystem and a Remote DSB, you may want to check message boards for positive results with this mix.>
As for plumbing, this is the most frustrating party b/c I change my mind
daily on how to do it. Here's an idea that I hope isn't too crazy.
I could use both 1" outflows from the main display to feed the sump. I could
use the ¾" outflows to feed the refugium. The refugium would be placed above
the 55 gallon (not directly above, but at a higher elevation) and gravity
feed to the sump. I could use ball or gate valves after each outflow to
control the flow (but, maybe you don't recommend this) <If you're the tinkering type, play.  If you're into simple and effective, eliminate variables that could be problematic.> An external pump
would return water from the sump to the main display through a manifold (as
described on your site). Does this sound reasonable/workable, or do you
recommend that the refugium and sump be plumbed in series? <Sounds reasonable>
My goal is to have enough circulation to eventually support corals, without
having to put unsightly powerheads in the main display. <Have you considered a DIY Surge device?> Also, I am a bit
worried that if I plumb the refugium and sump in series, that the water flow
might be too fast for the refugium. <Yes, a definite drawback.  If you kick up that sand bed too much, it will lose efficiency.> Finally, I assume that I would install
the protein skimmer in the sump, as a well as heaters. <The use of a protein skimmer with an Ecosystem filtration system is debatable.  Many believe that the organics removed by the skimmer act as a nutrient source for the anaerobic bacteria.  That's up to you to research, decide.>  However, I want the
flexibility to add a chiller and a calcium reactor. Although I may never
need this hardware, again, I want flexibility. <Certainly.>
Thanks for your time. As always, your help is greatly appreciated. I must
note that previously when I would write to ask you about my 46 gal hex tank,
I came to you AFTER I had it set up and was experiencing problems. I've
wised up and am doing much more due diligence before I spend my first of
many thousand dimes.
<And I wish you the best of luck with your new endeavor!
This article I found while researching your question: http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/Documents/JuabertRevisited_Winter1997.html
May be helpful-  Ryan>
Regards,
Walt

-New set-up follow-up-
Hey Crew! <Hey! Sorry 'bout the loooong delay :( >
It's James again emailing because I have become addicted to GOOD ADVICE! <Glad it's not crack.> As you may remember, I have a 20 gallon marine tank and am in the process of building a 75 gallon with a DSB sump.  I have built the sump out of a drilled 29 glass tank and some Plexiglas, procured an IWAKI 40RXLT (that's right, 1100 GPH baby!).  The lights are on back order and I just got a quote for a custom drilled 75 AGA tank (because I don't know what they are thinking with these overflows that can't handle the needed circulation for the tanks size). My questions are:
1)  The LFS has said I don't need more than two 1" pipes of drainage from the 75 gallon display to accomodate 1100GPH.  I think that they are wrong. Should I go for three 1" drains? <2 will do just fine.>  Why are they so stingy about providing the right flow?  I don't want to throttle back my flow rate with a ball valve! <Haha, I think you should be all set!>
2)  When I first started my 20 gallon, I noticed amphipods, the little white bugs.  Within the first three months, the tank had a case of ick, and I tried [malachite green] to cure them.  It didn't work, and ultimately a regiment of FW dips, lowered salinity and water changes cured them.  However, since then I have not really seen amphipods. It's been at least 9 months, and the biological filtration is certainly there (levels are really good), but still
no bugs. <You've likely wiped them out. Note that the ich med's are pretty much anti-invert.> Did I poison the live rock with the meth blue?  I have since added more rock but still no pods. <How about adding a small hang on refugium to try to generate some?> There are tube worms, and I have noticed bristle worms but no pods.  I will be buying about 80 lbs of rock for the new system, can I still use the old rock or will the old rock poison the new rock? <Since you're already getting a bunch of rock, you may want to just go with all new stuff, just in case.> What about the gravel?  Can I use it to seed? <Should be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to just start fresh.>
3)  I was thinking of using 1mm to 1.7mm sand in the DSB for NNR and so I could get plankton blooms, is that the right size?  It will be at least 6" deep. <If you're going that deep, try to keep it under 1mm, all the way down to .2mm.>
Thank you for your help, this is the best aquatics site on the web.  I have spent entirely too much time reading your articles and FAQs.  Thank you. <Excellent, good luck! -Kevin>

Hey Kevin, <Sorry 'bout the delay, never go to school for engineering...>
Thanks for getting back to me, the tank is 22" deep. How about if I use the VHO's ,almost like how the sun comes up less brightness in the AM for a couple hours, metal halides for the middle portion of day (when sun is brightest), and again with VHO's for the last couple of hours, when the sun is going down. Or do you really feel I need them all day, it's just that I've heard the halides suck up the electricity, but if the advantages are that great, I will do what's best for the reef. <It would behoove you (wow, what a word! who knows if I even spelled it correctly, it just sounds cool) to run the halides for the full day cycle. The difference may be an extra 30 bucks or more per month, but just compare that to what you've already spent on this thing! -Kevin> Thanks Again, Louie

-Set-up thoughts follow-up-
Thanks for the reply Kevin. <Sorry about the horrible delay.>
I decided to get the 2100 amp master because in this hobby I have realized that going bigger now is better if you plan on going bigger in the future...err, yea!? I plan on getting a 200+ gal in the next few years and don't want to go through the pain of buying new again, again, and again. With that pump, I can de-tune it with a valve and some elbows.  <Cool, just be aware that they transfer lots of heat to the water, keep that in mind.>
Concerning my water parameters, I went ahead and did a 30 gal water change today and will do another 20-30 gal tomorrow. I probably should have mentioned that my LR is "home made". About 3 years ago I placed about 200 lbs of base rock in the water (Pearl Harbor) behind my friends house (remember, I live in Hawaii). <Lucky!!!> Well, 2 weeks ago I removed that same rock from the water and placed it in my lifeless 110. Originally I placed the rock in about 10-12 feet of water knowing I would use it again in a low light system. It came out of the drink beautifully. Sponges, coralline, feather dusters and some macroalgae. There has been a slight die-off but much of the goodies have stayed. <Fantastic!!!> Although I have seen a few small dead shrimp floating around. <Well, regardless, can't beat homemade rock! -Kevin>

Cycling - And Get That Tang Outta There!
>Hi,
>>Greetings, Marina tonight.
>I have a 36 gallon FOWLR with 45lb live rock, two false percula clowns, a blue velvet damsel, and a small kole yellow eye tang.  
>>Eek.. you were doing great til you got to the tang.  I do hope you're aware that this fish won't do well for long at all in such a small system (should actually be busy growing in something along the lines of a 75 gallon or better).
>All fish seem to be doing well, all are active and have excellent appetites.  I am currently running a CPR Bakpak 2R and a Hagen Fluval 204 canister filter.  The tank has been running for a little more than two months now, and it still hasn't cycled.  My water parameters are pH 8.2, ammonia 0.5ppm, nitrite and nitrate at 0.  These are the same parameters that the tank was at two months ago.  I have tried adding live sand as well as using Hagen's Cycle product.  
>>Not a prudent use of funds.
>The tank has already passed the brown diatom stage and has a thick growth of green covering everything, with a beginning of bubble algae on the sand.  
>>Ah, my Valonia!  You have excess nutrients very quickly building up in your small system (which by many would be considered a nano), my friend.  I will suggest you upgrade your filtration very soon, to start with.  The canister is undersized for a marine system, I would be using a 304 or even a 404 on a tank that size, with FREQUENT cleaning.
>I am currently using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Saltwater Master Test Kit.  Have you heard anything about the accuracy of these tests?  
>>Not only heard, but personal experience has taught me they're not very.  Also, if I recollect correctly, their ammonia test may be using the Nessler's reagent (this may have changed, so don't take my word for gospel, please), which would mean that your dechlorinator would give you false ammonia readings.  Fancy that, eh?  Try either SeaChem or Salifert ammonia tests, see what you come up with on those (they really are better quality overall, too), then go from there.
>I was also thinking about eventually switching to an AquaC Remora protein skimmer.  What do you think?  
>>If your current skimmer is giving you the nastiest skimmate possible, then the only reason I would change would be because it seems over-taxed.  The change I really WOULD make would be to upgrade that Fluval, or add a refugium (I believe CPR makes a neat little hang-on 'fuge), and DEFINITELY find that tang a better home.  Then you can add something that won't outgrow the tank so quickly, nor will pollute so much as a tang.
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Rem
>>You're welcome, Marina.

High temps (10-7-03)
I just recently set up a 90 gallon FOWLR tank. There are no fish in it yet, but my temp seems to be a problem. It stays at about 81.5-81.9 F. I can't seem to figure out why. I am not running my lights yet, but when I do it will just be fluorescents. My return from the sump is a Mag7 and I have two powerheads running, a Maxi jet 1000 and a Powersweep 226.  I am stumped please help. <What is the room temp, the pumps should only raise it a couple degrees at the most.  Also is it in direct sunlight?  You should be ok where the temp is at now just make sure you don’t have any major fluctuations.  Cody>

Best laid plans... 9/29/03
Hi there,
<howdy!>
I would like to start off by saying that you have THE BEST site on the web. Thank you so much for all the information you provide.
<thanks kindly my friend>
I have a bit of a dilemma. I have a 125 gallon, with sump, protein skimmer (name of which escapes me right now, don't like the thing anyway-getting different one, any suggestions would be great)
<definitely... many skimmers on the market aren't worth the price of shipping... I strongly recommend an Aqua C or Euroreef skimmer... do check out availability at your LFS, or seek customaquatic.com or Marinedepot.com for example>
had a UV 36 watt but it is no longer working. Also another item I would much appreciate a suggestion on which to purchase of quality.
<absolutely no need for a UV on the display tank... nearly useless for disease control in systems with a substrate... best for QT and bare-bottomed displays. Use Ozone instead for the display, or invest in a quarantine tank (best)>
Now, I had a 55 gallon tank set up also, both tanks set up for over a year, both maintained on a regular basis (water changes, water tests done weekly, fish kept constant eyes kept upon them for any signs of any problems.) Well, a sibling owned the 55, decided he wants it back, as in right then, tells me all my fish will fit in my 125. I could have throttled him. He may be younger than me, but he is bigger than me. Now I have an over crowded 125 gallon. They were Q/T'd first, at least he gave me the time to do that.  
<ahhh... excellent>
Here is my list of fish and amazingly they all get along.
Dogface puffer, Coris Wrasse, Aus. Har. Tusk, Tassel File (who rules the roost), Queen Angel, and then my bad boys, the triggers... A Pineapple, Huma Huma and a Clown. Size range is from the smallest (Tassel file)3.5" to the 3 largest of 5" them being the Tusk, Clown Trigger and the Dogface.
<wow... that is one heck of a mix. And a staggering amount of fishes to keep re: their potential adult size cumulatively. They need to be thinned out soon or graduated to a larger tank or they will suffer in time from the crowding/stunting>
Now thankfully, said sibling has found something more useful he needed of mine and I now have the 55 back in my possession and has been for about 4 months. You know, he never even set the dang thing up!!!!
<arghhh>
I have yet to set it up due to illness and surgery. I have been quite thankful to my friend who has been helping me or rather doing my water changes and having my water tested for me. The 55 would have been set up as soon as I got it back, but I could not help with getting it up the stairs, and I already am asking so much of my friend. Because of the over crowding, I have upped my water changing schedule.
<very wise>
All fish are quite healthy except for the Clown trigger who eats but thins right back out, so I have been adding a couple of drops of garlic to his food, but am moving him into Q/T today since I am not seeing a change. thinking internal parasite?) Any ideas on what else I might do for him?
<hmmm...do verify if it is indeed internal parasites. Have you seen any evidence? Stringy white feces? Else, do consider simply that it is getting outcompeted for adequate nutrition in the tank. Feed more dense matter like freeze-dried foods (like krill) with very high protein>
Should I add half the 125 water and half new water to the Q/T? I usually add Receiver 2 also. It has been suggested that in regards to the Clown that I add to thawed food (Mysis-his favorite now and only thing he will eat) Kanamycin and then refreeze and then feed him this. Would this be your recommendation?
<not at all... there is no need/evidence or symptoms to medicate randomly... it could do more harm to an already stressed animal. Simply feed it well in isolation. Selcon soaked frozen and freeze-dried foods. Some dry pellets too>
Now with the 55, can I take substrate from the 125 to add to the 55 and water from the 125 plus new water...will this help quicken the cycle time?
<yes... better still, some live rock and/or dirty filter media (power filter, etc)>
I also have the foam filter that I can add to it that I put in my sump, so that will help also, correct?  
<excellent>
The collection of fish have been in the 125 for perhaps a bit over 6 months. I cannot say for sure considering how ill I was and how much time I was in the hospital. 3 surgeries in a year with the last one in June. I am getting my strength back.
<and wishing the best for you from here>
I have always done my best to keep my fish at optimum care and understand that they need more room, which I am quite happy to give them. Up until now, I have just not had the physical ability to do so.
<you do indeed sound very conscientious/empathetic... I have all faith that you will do your best to provide>
I do not plan on stopping with just the 55 gallon and do plan on getting other tanks, larger of course. :) And of course MINE so no one can take them from me again and I don't run into this problem in the future again. Which fish do you think I should move once the 55 has cycled? I have my own ideas, I am just curious as to yours. See if my head is on straight yet. :)
<the Tasseled file has the potential to be a real monster... gets my vote for the first man... er, fish out>
Thanks for listening and I understand if you want to spear me, shoot me, or harpoon me, but I do take very good care of my beloved babies. Ellie Bledsoe
<no worries... to your health and happiness :) Anthony>

Best laid plans... continued 10/4/03
Hi again :) Thank you for your advice and kind words Anthony.
<always welcome my friend>
I have a new problem, relating to the same dilemma as before. I was telling my dear brother how I was going to set up the 55 gallon (drill another hole in the back of the tank) and he freaks on me and tells me that he is only "loaning me the tank for an undisclosed amount of time" and I am NOT to make ANY changes to it what so ever. Well this is all news to me.
<your brother has issues :p With all due respect. Where's the love <G>?>
Ok, I can deal with this, given my current situation with my wet Darlins. I need to get that 55 up and running. I have been looking at filtration and wanted to run what I am dealing with and what I am thinking of by you and if you have any suggestions that would be absolutely fantastic!
<my advice is to not use this tank for fear of your brother demanding the tank sooner rather than later and really compromising the fishes. Instead... do extra water changes in the meantime or (better) give up some of the current fishes to spare their lives/crowding until bigger quarters can be had>
Obviously it is a 55 gallon ;) overflow upper right corner and then return is drilled in bottom - 6" in left side. Or it can be the other way if so preferred, which is how the tank was set up prior to being taken from me. I had a magnum 350 running on it. Funny thing that, never did come back with the tank and it was mine to begin with. Don't mind it being gone though. Was a bit of a pain with the up-keep on it. I haven't decided if I want to run a sump on the 55 or not. I am somewhat leaning towards a Ocean Clear in line 340 with a Quiet One 4000 for the pump (or would the 6000 be better?).
<save the money on the more expensive pump and buy your own new tank <G>... freedom!>
The O.C. 340 is for 100 gallons to 266 gallons. I am always thinking the bigger the better with filtration, not to mention the fact that this particular 55 tank will eventually leave my possession again in some "undisclosed" time at which time I will already have a larger tank, make that tank S. :)  
<eggs-actly>
Now is the Ocean Clear a good product?
<yes>
Easy with the up keep? I have noticed that hospitals and doctor's offices use this filtration system (been to enough of them over the last year) but I also notice that the fish are changed out regularly. (Again, noticed this because of the frequent trips to said places.)
<good/durable filters... but not especially convenient to clean IMO>
I did get the pleasure of going out to dinner for the first time in a very long time and the place had a very nice fish only tank and of course I snooped to find out what they were running underneath. The manager got upset with me for getting under the stand. LOL  So luckily my friend spoke Chinese and told the manager that I was just looking and that I was doing no harm. The system was the Ocean Clear.
<this story just keeps getting stranger... :p>
I can either set it up with it as an over flow from the upper right and the return from the bottom, but circulation would be poor, true?
<Correct>
So it would be best to set it up with the draw from the bottom of the tank and the return from the upper right top of the tank, best circulation.
<no... concerns with back-siphoning with a deep return. Just a return at the top is fine.>
Add a powerhead and bam I am in business. Course with other added bonus features i.e. skimmer and Ozone ;)  The fish I will be moving will be the Tassel File, The Har. Tusk and the Coris Wrasse and possibly the Dogface (he gets picked on, poor guy) Now mind you, this is only temporary digs for them, larger tanks on the way. People round here sell em up cheap starting in the next month or so. Gotta love Christmas coming up and people needing money! Especially the people who don't know how much a 240 gallon with all the fixins is worth. I see them for $1200 OBO all the time.
<if a new tank really could be as close as the holiday season... and if you have money perhaps for it (or the above mentioned equip... then by all means, do not stress these fishes with a move into a "loaned" 55 gallon tank. Buy a new 55 now... or sell some fish off... or do extra water changes for another 2 months, etc... but don't run them through such very temporary housing only to move them again in the near future>
Ok so that is it for the 55 gallon. Any suggestions or advice is always appreciated.
<as per above>
Regarding my clown trigger. Man, my picky boy. In the 125 gallon, he never lacked for food, he is just not a "go getter" he is very methodical about his eating. He is like a "taste tester" takes a bite, spits it out, tries something else and does this for a while until he decides what he wants then he eats slowly. Now in the Q/T, I feed him Mysis and Krill and some Silversides. He now has a name, Finiky Igit, of course with all my love. He is just driving me crazy! He will still methodically "taste test" and pick out only the Mysis and leave the rest. So I tried just feeding him Krill. Nope. He would rather starve. He won't take pellets, he likes dried seaweed. As in tearing it to shreds for fun. Ugh! So, is it ok to feed him just the Mysis?
<he will die prematurely on mysis or any single/whole prey item. He must be forced/helped to eat other foods... even if that means keeping the fish isolated for training>
I have seen no evidence of any white stringy stuff like you asked last time in his poop. So he is basically doing the exact same thing he was doing in the 125 as he is doing in the Q/T, would it be ok to move him back?
<the fish is simply starving from attrition -  a nutritive deficiency from the very limited diet. It cannot go back into the community tank>
I miss him in there and am not seeing anything wrong with him. He just seems like he eats, gets fat and happy and his belly thins out by next morning. Any ideas as to what might cause this?
<this is not rocket science, mate... if all you or I had to eat was potatoes every day for the rest of our (limited) lives... we would die of a dietary deficiency too no matter how  many potatoes where available to us>
When I first got him he was quite the eater, methodical, but he loved his scallops, prawns, and clams,( was a "taste tester" from the beginning) now he won't touch them. The other's love them.  If I can get a good enough picture of him when he is thinned out would that be helpful to send along in a different email?  Sorry to be so long winded, just trying to cover as much as possible. :)  Edit anything you like. Thanks again for your wonderful site and expertise! It is so appreciated by so many, especially all of our wet pets. :) Ellie Bledsoe
<do give thought to the above, in all sincerity. Else I fear your overstocked aquarium will soon be just another statistic... Anthony>

Marine Setup Questions
System details first:
- 110 gal
- Fluval 404 (primary) <I would use a wet/dry filtration system instead...or a refugium?  It will greatly improve water quality if it is properly established>  
- Whisper 3 (secondary) <I also would get rid of this..if you get a wet/dry or refugium>
- Red Sea Prizm Deluxe Skimmer <Keep this!...use along with a refugium or wet/dry>
- Undergravel filter with (2) powerheads. <I would not use an undergravel filter>
- 1) I have a grouper, puffer, trigger, and squirrel fish, all of which are pigs of course.<agreed and pretty soon they will outgrow your aquarium. They need at least a 180gal aquarium...are you familiar with the triggerfish's, pufferfish's, and grouper's adult sizes? well if you're not IT'S HUGE... to keep them through adult hood you might need a 300 gallon aquarium!> They are hearty, so nitrate levels do not bother them, and is why my tanks often have these fish (Oscars for freshwater). Only problem is now I am hatching a shark egg, and I've had sharks years before (nurse and a leopard, which they lived with my usual nitrate levels for 2+ years before I got divorced and sold the entire setup), but some of them  do not like nitrate levels high and I am wondering what I can do about this since I've never had a banded egg before. (He's getting bigger in the egg and no longer moving, but you can look at the sides of his head and see his gills breathing with a flashlight) <well number one.. cartilaginous fish do not tolerate high nitrates, and it can ultimately kill them. You need to perform water changes number one... I would probably do a 30% water change weekly with these fish, and I definitely think you made a "HUGE" mistake when you purchased that poor shark that will probably be consumed by your triggerfish, grouper or puffer... which ever one can get his teeth on the baby shark first.> I can change water every 2 weeks at 40% and because my pigs generate much waste the nitrate levels are always there.<well I suggest you setup a refugium...with macro-algae... or purchase Live rock. or maybe even another skimmer> I bought some Kent Marine Nitrate sponge this past weekend and I'm using it now in my media basket on my Prizm Deluxe Skimmer's output to see if that will help. I also put in some live rock this weekend as well (about 20lbs) hoping that will suck up some of the nitrate.<it won't just "suck" up anything De-nitrifying bacteria needs to establish itself on this live rock. It doesn't just happen overnight.. it's a gradual thing> All my other water tests are always clean, and my water is always crystal clear.<If your nitrates in your aquarium were over 200ppm the water clarity would be the same as someone who has nitrates that are less than 20ppm> On a "5" level system on the water test-color card, my usual number for nitrates is always between 3rd and 4th level (mainly 4th), but hardly ever the last lethal level :-) <well at least the fish aren't dieing. Well the only advice I can give you... is to please find a good home for the unhatched shark egg...your fish will kill him. Get a larger aquarium. Purchase a filtration system that can handle the bio-load. And research before you make purchases. Good luck, IanB>
- 2) Would a dedicated wet/dry system help with this? <yes>And can I use another Fluval 404 with nothing but BIO media to do this, or does the EHEIM 2227 and other specific wet/dry systems mechanically work different inside than using a Fluval 404 for this in the future? I like closed systems because I have golden retrievers at home and the house will always be full of dog hair :-) <agreed>
Which is why the Fluval and EHEIM products catch my eye.<yea, it should work> 
- 3) Would attaching the surface skimmer attachment to my skimmer help any?  I don't use this deluxe kit accessory right now because it's a big chunky thing in the water :-).  The media tray compartment in the bay where the output comes out is a useful accessory though, which is why I'm using the nitrate sponge rocks in there right now where before I was using more carbon. <the nitrate sponge will provide you with almost no help when it comes to controlling the nitrates>  Thanks, Larry
<good luck,IanB>

Pump sizing, filtration
I would like advice on the next step I need to take.  Here is where I am at
with the set-up.  75 gal aquarium ready, leak proofed, Durso stand pipe
installed.  Light hood finished with 4 VHO (2 actinic and 2 actinic white)
bulbs, hooked up to a timer.  20 gal DIY ecosystem mud filter. Hot magnum
canister filter for activated carbon, protein skimmer, heater, all plumbing
and pump connections ok.  When do I get the live rock and sand?
<Now>, When do I put the mud substrate<Now> and algae in the ecosystem filter?<after the ammonia drops> When do I need the
protein skimmer?<The verdict is still out on a skimmer with the eco system, I never ran one with my eco system, I had excellent results. Check out the Leng Sy web site to learn more.>  What test kits and test equipment will I need?<Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, Alkalinity, & Calcium test kits.
My pump came with the aquarium when I purchased it used and I am not sure how many
GPH it pumps.  I sent e-mails to the manufacture with no replies.  How many
GPH pump do I need with this set-up?
<4-5 times turn over should be sufficient.> Anything else you could pass along that
I have missed would be appreciated.
<I definitely would spend some time reading the eco system website, and look into Mike Paletta's new book. Eric.>
I have been researching this for so
long I have information over-load so I came to you for some straight
answers.
Thank You,
Kevin V.

New Tank Start Up (AKA Avoiding Floods...>
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. back with you!>
I apologize up front for asking questions that may not sound to smart, but I haven't done anything like this before.
<Hey- that's why we're here!>
You recommended below to just put water in the tank first then put rock in. I have a question about that.  I have never use the Tidepools before, so I may not know how they work, but if I put water in the tank high enough to get the Tidepools working, I won't have enough tank room to add rock without A - draining some water out or B, overflowing the water in the tank would I?
<Exactly. You'll have to play with it a bit to get it right...Have lots of towels and a plastic drop cloth, not to mention some buckets, on hand at all times!>
On the other side, if I drain the water low enough, won't the Tidepools quit working?
<Right- but our need to see where the tank "drains down to, and how much the sump fills...Trial and error, unfortunately>
Are you saying to start the tank out, test it, then shut it down
drain some water and add rock?
<Precisely>
I guess my biggest confusion comes from how to start it up once I connect everything.  I don't know what to start first.  Do I try to get the Tidepools siphoning water to the sump before I start up the return pump
<Yes!>
or do I start up the return pump then get the Tidepools going?  I don't want to suck the  sump dry or overflow it either.  Finally, I would assume I could get the water to and from the tank and sump to work before cranking up the protein skimmer or the Aqualizer, correct?
<Sure. Just make sure that all connections are tight, and that everything is working okay before you start up...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Web sites (9-29-03)
Can you guys please help me find a web site strictly on pictures of people
reef tanks im interested in putting my tank up too and I want to get some
ideas.  <We have a forum at wetwebmedia.com you can post pictures on and you can also try www.reefcentral.com.  Cody>

Tweaking!
Hi Guys,
<Scott F. your guy today!>
I've been reading all your FAQs so far at your website but I am getting kinda confused on the topic on reef filtration.
<That's not hard to do! LOL>
I am in the midst of setting up my first 20 gallon FOWLR tank and its in its 9th day of cycling. I've no intention to have invertebrates or corals. Not at least until I am more experienced.
<Nothing wrong with that! Good attitude!>
Hope you guys could shed some lights on any possible setup errors I could have made.. I've added about 22 pounds of cured live rocks onto a 2" substrate of dead sand and dead coral fragments.
<I'd go for 1/2 inch or less, or 3 inches or more on the substrate (ideally with fine material). Two inches is too shallow for full denitrification, but to deep to be fully aerobic, IMO...A possible problem in the future. However, with prudent maintenance in a small tank, you need not worry too much>
I am running a Eheim Pro II 2026 as my main filter and a Red Sea Prizm skimmer (not turned on yet).
<I'd turn it on!>
Do I need to add carbon additives into my canister filter after the tank has cycled?
<I am a big fan of continuous activated carbon use in all systems>
I understand from some of the FAQs that the fine filter media in the Eheim or the canister filter itself could be a rich source of harmful nitrites...
<Well, mechanical filters must be attended to regularly to avoid becoming "nutrient traps", which lead to nitrate accumulation. Regular replacement of prefilter materials is a big help, too>
So will I be successful if I carry on using the Eheim?
<Sure! Just follow a regular maintenance schedule of media cleaning/replacement, frequent small water changes, continuous use of chemical filtration media (Poly Filter and/or activated carbon), and productive protein skimming>
I have no space or an overflow in my Nisso tank for a sump..;-(
Thanks so many for your valuable time! Best regards,
George Seet.
<Well, George, it sounds like you're on the right track here. You just need to tweak a few things for optimum performance. In smaller systems, it's mandatory to stay on top of maintenance and regular water testing, as there is little margin for error! However, if you develop good habits early on, you and your charges will be just fine! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New Tank Start Up
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I need a little assistance.  I am trying to get a new tank started, but it is bigger and involves more equipment than I have ever done before.
<All part of the fun, huh?>
I have a 135 Oceanic tank, a 40 gallon long tank that will be below it and is partitioned off to be an algae scrubber.  I have two Tidepool SOS Pre-filter Skimmer overflow boxes, an ETSS Super Reef Devil Skimmer (sorry, I forget the pump I bought for it, but I have an appropriate one that will run it), two 150 watt Pro Heat Titanium heaters, and a Gen-X Mak 4 for the return pump.  I also have an ECO-Aqualizer and a small pump to run it-ViaAqua 480.
I also have lights for it too ( three 175 watt Metal Halides and two 140 VHO actinics in a six-foot reflector that will mount in the canopy).
<Sounds like you really pulled out all the stops on this one! Some pretty good equipment there>
I am just not sure how to get everything going.  I have the substrate (200 pounds) and rock (100 pounds-just base rock until I get it going).  I would set up everything underneath first.  Then I would put water in the scrubber (do I put just water in the scrubber for now, or do I go ahead and put substrate and macro algae in at the start - I also plan to add smaller live
rock later)?
<My advice is to get the system up and running,. components assembled, and water in the tank before adding the rock .You can, however, get the sand in there first, IMO>
Then I would put everything in the main tank and fill the water to the top to get the Tidepools going.  
<Right...Test everything first>
I guess I am nervous (a little intimidated) about starting this beast up...namely: the order of start up so I don't overflow flow something or run the scrubber dry pumping it out too fast; getting the Tidepools going; checking for leaks and how to shut everything down correctly, if I find a leak, so I don't have an overflow problem etc.  Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!  I haven't gotten a lot of local help yet.    
Thanks, Paul
<Well, Paul, you're on the right track...It would be nice to see if you could get some local help from the fish store(s) that you frequent...My best advice is to have lots of towels and a drop cloth or two available when you start working, and some large plastic containers to scoop out water "just in case"...Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

-Set-up thoughts-
Hi guys. I really love your site and appreciate your hard work and knowledge. <Thanks! Kevin here>
This is what I have going right now:
110 gal high (48"lx18"dx36"h)
2ea Amiracle overflows w/sponges, located on opposite sides of the tank
15 gallon DIY wet/dry filter (filled with 5 gal of water at any given time) with 1 gallon of bio-balls above waterline, foam block (to keep down air bubbles)
Amiracle Quad 2 skimmer
1/4 hp drop in coil chiller/with thermostat
"Quiet One" vertical return pump (6 foot head with 3 sweeping 90's)
Ice cap ballast running 2ea (46") URI, VHO-1 Super Actinic and 2ea (46") URI VHO-1 Actinic whites
Inside Tank:
2 Maxi jet 1200's, 2ea Maxi jet 900's controlled by a Red Sea Wavemaker
3" of sand (size between sugar and cc)
120 lbs of LR and 40 lbs of base rock
The system has been running now for just over a week. There are no fish as of yet. Im going to wait it out until the LR cycles the tank. Is this set up fine for a FOWLR? <You bet it is! Great looking setup! The only thing I'd do differently is ditch the wet/dry part of the sump, with 120lbs of rock and 3" of sand, the bio-balls will do little more than increase your nitrate levels.> What about future corals? <Well, the tank is incredibly deep for even VHO fluorescents, If you want to do some coral, find lower light species and place them within the top 18" or so. This tank should really be lit with 400w MH lamps if you care to do a reef in it.> What would you change? <Just the wet dry, and probably remove the filter sponges.> Is it okay to run a w/d and LR filtration without major problems? <No need for the wet-dry here, chuck it!>
I think maybe my return pump isn't enough gph. <Ideally, you should have around 1000gph total coming out of your returns at the full head pressure of the system. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thank you,
Randy

A Serious System For A Serious DIYer! Hi guys at WWM, this is Sascha again from Los Angeles. <Hey there! Scott F. with you today!> I haven't been writing in a while since all my 4 tanks (12g,20g,125g and 200g) are running smooth. My newest addition now is my brand spanking new 90g reef tank. I built everything but the acrylic parts myself. <Sweet!> I am using everything from Lifereef, sump/skimmer and CA reactor. I love Jeff's stuff, especially after I already have every brand skimmer there is (Euro-Reef 8-2 and Aqua C 200). I am using 2x250W metal halides, 1x 175W metal halide and 2 110W actinics. The goal is mainly hard coral with a few softies and of course clams. The main return is a little giant 3 mdqx (or so) and no power heads. For circulation I am running an Ampmaster 3000 on a closed loop shooting from 4 different directions into the tank, one of them is attached to a spray bar behind the rock. <Excellent!> I also connected a JBJ chiller (damn that thing is quiet) to the ampmaster and back into the tank, I just couldn't stand these powerheads anymore. <They ARE ugly, aren't they?> I also installed water change plumbing into the garage which is attached to the room my reef is in. I guess what I want to say, in my three years in the hobby and by reading your site, I've learned a lot. But today I got a little puzzled. I also installed the AT-1 sensor to turn on a pump in the garage when the water level gets too low and it worked fine when the water level in the trash can with the RO/DI water is lower, but today I filled it again. I knew it had to turn on soon, so I kept checking every hour or so, to see how much it would fill and then make adjustments. But when I walked in my living room, I had a bit of a puddle on the floor, not too bad, but I guess what happened, the pump turned on and filled it a bit, but it also started a siphon that kept the water coming, since I am pumping the evap-water into the sump and that level is lower than the level in the freshwater reservoir. <Ok, this was example number 2,500 as to why auto top-off/water change systems scare the hell out of me! Your system sounds pretty good, though... And there are some other good ones out there.> first thing I did is install a really small pump, second I needed something to break the siphon once the pump turned on again. So I installed a Y-fitting   in-between the 3/4" hose , one end to the refill line, the other end just open right underneath the lid, inside the trash can. I also connected a check valve to the open end, that shuts close when the pump turns on and in theory opens up once the pump turns off again. How does that sound?? <I have a nagging feeling in the back of my mind that there may be an easier way to accomplish this, but I think that you are definitely on the right track here...> Am I on the right path, what else could I do?? Any ideas would help, I just don't ever want to come home and not only have a bunch of water on the floor, but also mess with my salinity. <Agreed...Although you really just need to test this system again and again to make sure that it's working well...> Thank you so much for all your help, now and in the past. Tell Bob I'm still waiting to cut his hair (he knows) <Do tell, Bob...> and good luck to all of you. Take care SASCHA <Good luck with your unique ideas Sascha...You're on the right track...Also, you might want to check out either of the two local clubs in the SoCal area, Marine Aquarium Society of Los Angeles County or Southern California Marine Aquarium Society. Both are full of DIYer's and reef nuts just like yourself, who might be able to give you some great feedback on your system! Regards, Scott F.>

Another Tank!
Hi folks - I'm setting up a FOWLR system. I already have a very small reef system with a pair of common clowns and a few stony corals but there's no room in there for any more fish so it has to be a new tank...
<Oh, darn...another new tank! LOL>
Here is the proposed setup:
4' x 15" x 15" display tank (max. water volume about 40 gal)
3' x 12" x 12" sump (max. water volume about 24 gal)
<I like the concept of a large sump in relation to the system>
Circulation:
I have drilled the display tank with three 1.5" bulkheads and will have an Eheim 1260 returning water from the sump at about 500 gph via a manifold at the top of the display tank.
<Nice setup>
I will probably supplement this with powerheads lower in the tank, perhaps behind the rockwork.
<Never a bad idea!>
Filtration:
I propose to put 40 lb of live rock on 0.5" of sand in the display tank. I would like to divide the sump into three chambers: skimmer (Turboflotor 1000), deep sand bed and return. If I do this, the area for the DSB will be about 18" x 12". Do you think this combination of skimmer, LR in the display and DSB in the
sump will provide adequate filtration?
<I'd be inclined to say yes!>
Should I add LR to the DSB chamber in the sump as well?
<I'd just go for the DSB in there...>
I would also like some advice about stocking this tank. I would like three or four interesting, colourful, and hardy fish. I would love your opinion on the suitability of the following fish/wish list for my setup:
scarlet hawkfish - Neocirrhites armatus
<A fun, interesting fish, but any snails or small shrimp you have will be toast...>
long nosed butterfly - Forcipiger flavissimus
<A great fish- but better off in a much larger tank, IMO>
flame angel - centropyge loricula
<A nice choice, but don't overcrowd it>
tomato clown - Amphiprion frenatus
<Nice, but they can get nasty in close quarters...>
orchid Dottyback - pseudochromis fridmani
<An awesome choice!>
sixline wrasse - Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
<Another awesome fish>
Many thanks John
<I think that you're on the right  track, John. I like the fishes that you are considering, and your system sounds great! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

-Eclipse conversion-
Hello, Bob, et al. <Hi there, Kevin here> I am in the process of considering to convert my tank 37G (an Eclipse 3 system) which was previously FOWLR to a mini-reef.  Due to the hood, it looks like I can only install a Custom Sealife retrofit kit which has a 50/50 65w PC (using the 10000KUltra-Daylight/Ultra Actinic bulb). <Yep, one of the few downfalls of this system when trying to make a reef out of it> My tank is 18" deep with a 5" DSB.  I know that I can't keep SPS in here, and very little in the way of LPS corals, so I'll go with softies, mostly.  Here's my questions: 1.  Can I keep an Tridacna clams in this setup? <Some may say yes, but I would suggest against it because it is very borderline.> 2.  Is there a protein skimmer for this setup? <I've heard of several people adding a Seaclone skimmer to this hood, but it involves a lot of cutting!> I know I'm a long way off from putting clams (if at all), because the tank will need to mature.  In my bigger tank, I have a Euroreef skimmer, and my water is very clear, so I'm wondering if I can put a skimmer on my 37G. <Even if you could cram that Seaclone on there, it's a pretty horrible skimmer :) > 3rd question: Would I be better off replacing the hood? <I would strongly suggest it. This way you can do at least a pair of power compact lamps, and an appropriately sized skimmer (like an AquaC remora or a Precision Marine HOT-1). The hood gives you little advantage and may make keeping the temperature down an issue. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks in advance.
David Thayer

- Please help... -
Dear Crew.
I was hugely thankful to get your website address from my local pet store... cuz I think I'm getting in a little over my head. <That's a little scary... stores recommending us directly - they should pay into the general fund!!!> I'll be as brief as I possibly can...
I have a 125 gal (U.S.) tank. About seven years ago I had it set up in the Jaubert method for about 18 months... with varying success. Then I moved and have been trying to get it set up again since. The time is now!! However this time I'd like to invest in the correct filtration and lighting etc. and try that route.    
Here's my question(s)...
Fish store #1 says I should go with a Fluval 404 for filtration. <Not my first, second, or third choice.>
Fish store #2 recommends a sump system. <This is what I would do.>
Fish store #3 suggests using metal halide lighting with VHO tubes. <Is all a matter of money.>
Store #1 and #2 says metal halide is too hot and not really necessary. <There's some truth to this, but really matters most in accordance with what you want to keep - not all reef organisms need this type of light, but some can't survive without it. Would suggest you carefully research the animals you want to keep and then match the lighting to their needs. If you go the metal halide route, you will need to do something about the heat.>
I've just printed out over 80 pages from your awesome website and found all of the info very interesting... but... not exactly applicable to me. <Oh, I beg to differ... I'd be willing to bet that most of it applies to you, you just don't know it yet.>
Here's what I'd like to be able to have in my tank. A mini reef with a sampling of some of everything (that will get along together) Inverts, fish, and essentially any coral hard or soft that I see. <You should take a more studious approach to the - study up on what can live together and don't make any impulse buys.>    
I was thinking about the following equipment... my tank is built into a large cabinet that I built for it.  (I'm a furniture designer/maker by trade) I would expect to have about 3" of artificial sand (crushed coral) (should I supply a Jaubert type plenum below) and probably 100 pounds of live rock. <I'd skip the plenum and consider a deep sand bed - more reading for you on Wet Web Media.> (what can you tell me about Fiji rock versus aqua-culture rock versus what else? <Again, this question has been answered/archived for you on WWM.> There is a fully enclosed space above the tank about 24" high. (by 18"d. by 75"l.) I'm thinking I'll need 2 or 3 metal halide lights and would like to cover the rest of the lighting requirements with Compact fluorescents (are these cooler burning than VHO?) <PC lighting runs hot - as for number of bulbs, please consider two metal halides rather than three.> I can install any number of fans in this top section. <You will need to.> I was thinking of 2 or 3 fans drawing heat off the lights thru the top and maybe one fan blowing cool room temp into the canopy. Then from what I've read, probably a sump system below (also lots of space here) but I'm unclear as to what equipment belongs down here. A protein skimmer, a heater, and do you think I'll need a chiller? <The chiller will add to your already growing electrical bill and I can't imagine it gets too hot in the summer up in Ontario... I'd skip this item unless you really need it.> And finally, what am I over-looking??? UV sterilization... Reverse osmosis?? <No sterilizer, use good quarantine practices instead. RO is useful, but unless your tap water is in poor shape, I'd start there.> I'd sure appreciate any info you folks could share with me... thanx. <Keep reading - most of these questions have been asked before and are archived for your perusal on Wet Web Media.>
Sincerely,
John
Chatsworth, Ontario Canada
<Cheers, J -- >

The Start Of A New Journey (Planning A New System)
Dear WWM Crew Member,
<Scott F. your Crew member today!>
I wish to ask for information but wish to first comment on your marvelous web site.  It's amazing the amount of knowledge contained on it and the help you seem to give people.
<Thanks for the kind words! We have a blast working with our fellow hobbyists each day!>
I'm sorry to take your valuable time but am overwhelmed by the volume of information.  It is said that "Experience is the best teacher.  When it is the experience of some one else, it is wisdom".
<Or opinion! LOL>
I would like your wisdom so I don't make any mistakes that I will regret in the future.  I contact you first in hopes that you will impart your wisdom that will save me time, money and heart ache in the future.
<Well, I hope that I can head off a bit of heartache, anyways!>
I have had several experiments with salt water tanks in the past.   I had a 135 gallon tank that I went back and forth from salt to fresh, to salt to fresh, to salt etc.  I wanted to stick to salt but got discouraged when I would come in after the weekend and see 90% of my expensive fish belly up.  I would then go back to fresh with African's because they were the closest to salt in color.  Finally I just gave it up.  That was 12 years ago.  I understand that many new products have come out that now enable you to set up a reef tank and allow it to survive.  I love the ocean and have become a Master Instructor scuba diver with PADI.
<Skills and experiences that will no doubt help you understand the animals that you intend to keep!>
My goal is to end up with a reef tank but all that I read in your web sites strongly suggests that I start with fish first to learn the basics, then add invertebrates and last go reef.  I am not in a hurry and want to do it right with no short cuts.  I don't what to buy cheap stuff only to have to replace it later.  I would rather spend more to start with, doing it right, to avoid dead marine life in the future.
<A great attitude! Do it right from the start!>
I also would rather over build as I am  strong believer that bigger is better especially when it comes to filtration.  As I have not done this in 12 years please impart your wisdom assuming I know nothing (which is probably not far off).
<We all are learning every day!>
I currently have a 180 gallon 2' x 2' x 6' tank that is pre-drilled with four 2" holes.  Two of the holes are in the back corners measuring 3" from the back and sides to their centers .  The other two holes are in the center of the tank from front to back and 18" from the sides.  I have the tank mounted on a cabinet that is 3' tall and has 26" of vertical clearance on the inside.  There is a vertical center divider for strength.  I have a 4 gang outlet with a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
<You'll need every bit of it, believe me! There's always another gadget that needs an outlet!>
On either sides of the tank are book shelves that extend 14" out from the wall and extend 3' above the tank.  My cabinet maker intends to make a hood to match the book shelves when I determine what lighting and exhaust is necessary.
<Cool!>
My questions are: Where do I start?  If this were your tank: How would you plumb it?
<Wow! There are literally millions of possible options here! Hard to generalize! A lot of what you can do depends on the types of animals you intend to keep. If it were me- knowing that we all seem to migrate to corals (specifically SPS) somewhere down the line, I'd design the plumbing with the needs of corals in mind. I'd allow for a lot (like 20-40 times turnover) of circulation. A "closed loop" and other outlets or manifolds for circulation would be of great importance. Also, you may want to consider some external pumps, such as Tunze Stream or Gemini, as well as rotating water return devices, such as Sea Swirls...It's hard to have too much circulation, IMO>
I want to personally do as much of the set up as I can. Could you please inform me what equipment to purchase for this size tank with at least a 20% overbuild on filtration?
<I'd buy or build the largest sump that my stand could accommodate. This will help add to the water volume of the tank and provide space for "processing" of the water by mechanical and chemical means. I'd also incorporate a refugium, which will greatly benefit any system. Another key item (possibly the most important mechanical device) would be a protein skimmer. Buy or build the best one that you can find. There are dozens of good ones out there. I have had experience with ETS, Tunze, Aqua C, and EuroReef, but there are many others out there worth looking into. This is where you can go "oversized". Get one that exceeds your system's requirements, and you won't be sorry!>
What are the best brand names to get based on performance and longevity? What lighting do you recommend for this size tank?
<Well, if $$ is not the primary focus, I'd lean towards three 250 HQI metal halide pendants, supplemented with either VHO fluorescents, compact fluorescents, or T5 fluorescents...>
Are there places you can purchase equipment on the web that don't charge the outrageous prices of a pet shop?
<Many, many places to check...>
Do you sell these products?  If you do I would be happy to buy all of them through you in exchange for your wisdom.
<Thanks for the support, but we do not sell products! We simply render advise and information based upon our collective experiences. Keep in mind that what works for me might be absurd for you...Take any and all advice with a grain of salt!>
Is there a single book that you recommend that contains this information?
<No single book- but a nice library to help research this endeavor would consist of "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Bob (In essence, the WWM philosophy), Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation" (lots of great advice on systems, hardware, and approaches), "Aquarium Corals" by Eric Borneman (lots of great coral information), and, for inspiration- "Ultimate Marine Aquariums" by Michael Paletta (filled with pictures and information on some of the best setups in the world...). These books would give you some great stuff to stimulate and inspire you! And, of course, don't hesitate to contact us on the WWM site whenever we may be of service! Good luck on your journey! Regards, Scott F>
Thanking you in advance for your cooperation in this matter.  I will be anxiously awaiting your reply.  Again you have a wonderful website.
Respectfully,
Bruce

Hobbyist Re-loaded!
Dear Scott,
<Hi there!>
Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly regarding my questions for my new 180 gallon tank.  I am so new that I don't know what "Sump" or "Refugium" apply to or mean with regards to this business.
<In time, you'll know it really well!>
But I will know because yesterday I was down in Phoenix at Aqua Touch Marine Aquatic Supply and Service <Great store, great people!> and obtained one of the books that you recommended: "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by your own Bob Fenner.  In fact the store manager said that Bob himself was in the store 2-3 weeks ago.  I will read this book cover to cover, get a basic knowledge and get back to you with hopefully some intelligent specific questions.
<We're here for you any time!>
Again thanks for your valuable time, the great web site and the knowledge. Respectfully,
Bruce E. Staggs
<Our pleasure, Bruce! Have fun in the "re-learning stage...It only gets more fun- and more interesting! Regards, Scott F>

Manifold Questions...
Hi Scott!
<Hey there!>
Back again!  Lighting time.  Confused, as always.  Need some help.
<Glad to be of service...>
To refresh, 100g, 24" deep, 5' long tank, 100lbs LR, fish to start, but the more I read and look, seems like will be taking a shot at a few inverts sooner rather than later.
<It always seems that way, huh?>
For lighting there are only two choices in Argentina, NO fluorescents and HQI metal halide, 150watts, 10,000K.  So can't get too complicated.
<Well, those are actually all that you need for many systems!>
Since I figured out from reading FAQs that I would need to arrange about 30 tubes of NO over the tank to light any inverts, bought two of the metal halides. All I can say is wow.  That is a lot of light!
<Yep! And if you like, you can supplement them with actinics if you find the light too "yellow" for your taste..>
Questions.  From what I have read, these lamps should be 6-9" above the surface of the water.
<I'd shoot for about 8 inches, just to fall in between...!>
LFS told me 12", so that is what I have done for now, to get the two perculas used to them (tank cycled in two weeks, as far as I can tell.  I guess from all the cured rock.  Never could detect any ammonia, had a little NO2 but that is gone, NO3 barely detectable).  Maybe slowly
lower them when I actually have some inverts.  Sounds O.K.?
<Sounds good so far...Do keep on testing, just to be careful...>
Will having the lights 6-9" above the water line actually make the tank appear a lot brighter, or just increase the penetration to lower levels?
<Probably a little of each, actually. Of course, the "spread" of the light won't be as great if it is lower, but you probably won't lose much otherwise...>
Its pretty darn bright right now.
<Enjoy it! Your animals will!>
From FAQs I gather than the MH photo period should be somewhere from 7-12 hours per day ( a lot of different opinions on this).  I am starting out with 7 per day, and maybe just leave it that way (until the inverts) so I won't drive the fish nuts.  So to give me some light and make the fish look purty the other 4 or 5 hours a day, was thinking of adding either 2 NO full spectrum fluorescents and one actinic, or maybe two actinics and one full-spectrum?  Or maybe just two actinics?
<Take two actinics and email me in the morning...>
Am guessing the MH, when on, will completely drown out the full-spectrum, but less so the actinics?
<In all likelihood...>
Are there other considerations at play with these tubes (photosynthesis), or purely aesthetics?
<In my opinion, it's all about aesthetics...Those 10k bulbs are awesome...>
And finally, one question regarding circulation.  I tried Anthony's teed manifold idea, but the flow seemed very weak from each of the outlets, so I scaled them back to only two outlets, one at each end in front (with a powerhead in each rear corner).  Now the output from each of the outlets feels about as powerful as a 400gph powerhead.  Am I missing the point re creating random turbulent flow in the tank, vs. strong laminar flow?
<Well, the object of the manifold is to get lots of turbulence and random flow, so I don't think that you missed the point. In theory, you could try putting more current through the manifold, and use more outlets...>
I am getting a lot of turbulence, and the two fish seem to enjoy being blown around from the outlets and powerheads, but is what I am ultimately looking for something more diffused, with water kind of meandering out of the outlets, and leading me to increased the number of outlets back to four?
<Well, in most aquariums, you simply cannot have too much current. Obviously, you don't want to blast the tissue off of your corals and other sessile inverts, but a strong, turbulent, random flow is really beneficial for most corals...>
Total turnover is now about 20X total volume.
<Perfect...That's what you want to aim for in many reef systems..>
Thanks again for all of your sageness! Jim
<Any time, Jim! Good luck with the tank. Sounds like it's coming along! Regards, Scott F>

- I am Kinda Lost, No Kidding -
Mr. Crew or Miss
I was looking at your equipment on your web sight and noticed that you some time design a special item for a customer. <Uhh... we do? We don't normally have customers...>
Please let me bend you ear for a few minutes. LOL My name is Jerry I am 64 yrs old and have a {kinda reef tank} that I want to make into a real one, but lack the knowledge on the high tech end of the equipment that seems to make it all work. <High tech? Not sure I follow - most reef tanks are very simple, and high tech has nothing to do with them.> My details are .. I have a 60 gal 2 x 2 x 2 glass cube tank viewed from 3 sides the foot print under it is so small that I have not done enough to make it good for the corals and mushrooms I want to get. Now that I have just retired I want to make a alternate area to house a nice size sump and a refugium tank with all the goodies that you seem to have. <I'm sorry to say that we have no goodies - we don't sell anything...> More info..  lighting... 3 sets of two 75watt pc lights - 450 watts part att. part white. New location is 15' away from tank and outside. going to use a Rubbermaid storage shed with 2 doors front and lift able lid, all water proof. Shed under awning on porch, foot print is 29 " deep 46" wide  48"tall with one shelf. I have some money to spend and can go say about $1500 will you please give me your idea of a sweet set up for this reef tank. I will run a 2" insulated pipe from overflow box to alternate location and a 1" return, with two 1/2 " inlets on tank at 2" below water line. <For starters, I wouldn't plumb a return below the water line - if you have a power failure, those returns will become siphons and drain a good deal of water from your tank.> My idea is a sump 4" above the refugium water 9" deep on sump and refugium 12" deep connected by a 2" pipe and a pump on each one, to return the water. A sump skimmer and kalk or ca thing plus some probe things to monitor some stuff??? Kinda lost here. <Would suggest you spend some time going through the Wet Web Media site - we don't sell anything, but we do answer questions like this all day long and those answers are archived for perusal at your leisure.> Thanks for your time. Thank you in advance for your ideas. Jerry
ps. I live in CA in a mild area.
pss.  It's not that I am too lazy to read... I have been doing that. Just a little too old to be sure what you genius guys are saying and as I am on a fixed budget can only do this once. LOL thx Jer
Please give me an idea of a system, that this old guy can dream about and will keep some easy corals and mushrooms  thx <I think your existing tank would support some select corals and mushrooms just the way your system is. More often than not, the more important factors for keeping any coral are lighting and water quality, and you can address the latter with frequent, small water changes. You would probably benefit from a hang-on skimmer, but for a tank this size, the investment in time and money to produce this outdoor sump really warrants a larger tank inside the house. Please do spend the time to read through our site - we are hardly geniuses, and most of this equipment is either detailed in individual articles, or spelled out in the various related FAQs. It is probably also in your interest to pick up a book or two, perhaps Michael Paletta's, New Marine Aquarium and Bob Fenner's, Conscientious Marine Aquarist.
Cheers, J -- >

The Ubiquitous First Setup
>Hi, Today I just purchased a 75 gallon salt water tank and every thing you need to run it, the filter I purchased was a Emperor 400.  I plan on getting live rock once my tank cycles and everything, but does a tank with live rock count as a reef tank
>>Oh yes, especially if you buy UNCURED live rock.  It will reek to high heaven!  <giggle>  Sorry.. I couldn't resist.
..and would I need to buy a protein skimmer or would the filter I
have do the job and what's the difference?  Ahhhh so many questions. I'd appreciate any help you could give, You guys have answered so many questions for me I really appreciate it. Thanks sooo much!
>>You really do need to invest in a couple of good books.  The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, by our very own Mr. Fenner would be best for a beginner in your position.  It will answer MANY of your questions.  Do know that we have many excerpts from the book on the site, too.  Now, if all you have in the tank is live rock and fish, it is specifically called a Fish Only With Live Rock.  Second, I'm thinking you're planning on using a hang-on power filter, which, unless you seriously understock will be woefully inadequate.  I would STRONGLY suggest you invest in a decent skimmer, AquaC Remora or (can't recollect manufacturer) a BakPak (CPR?) is a decent hang-on unit.  Now, if you don't want the tank to reek, do the curing of the live rock in large trash cans or tubs, ideally in the garage or someplace like that, along with COPIOUS water changes.  Otherwise, you will definitely have a reek tank.  <Here she sits, grinning and chortling away>  Have fun, mate!  Marina

Premium Equipment for Sale
>This is to let everyone know that might be interested that I have had to break my tank down. I have tons of top-of-the-line equipment, such as an AquaC EV-180 skimmer, Neptune II Aquatroller, Lifereef sump, etc. for sale cheap. If anyone on the staff needs anything, please let me know.  Brandon Wilson
>>Thanks Brandon.  Please post this in our For Sale forum at http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk  Also a good place to place "For Sale" ads is http://www.reefs.org  -- both require registration.  Marina

New Reef Setup
>Hi WetWeb Crew !!!
>>Hola Victor.  Marina tonight.
>I've been reading through your site for quite a while now in preparation for a saltwater tank.  I think I came up with a good plan, but would like to run it by your team for reassurance and/or advice.  Sorry in advance for the long post, but would like to try and cover all my questions in one post.  
>>No worries.. YET!
>I'm pretty experienced in freshwater (20 years almost), but haven't done much with salt except a FO tank with a single Lionfish and that was YEARS ago.  Think undergravel filters and crushed coral !!!
>>Hey, they work.  ;)
>OK, I decided to go with an Oceanic 37 gallon show tank, 24½ x 18½ x 21 ½.  I picked it up on sale for an amazing price, and since I have space issues (5 other tanks in the house) it fit perfectly and is close to Bob's recommended 40 gallon minimum.  I also have an Aquaclear 300 just for water movement and carbon (no sponge), a Power Sweep head and a BakPak 2R (the one without the Bio-Bale nonsense, LOL).
>>I wouldn't worry much about running carbon in the salt tank.  It tends to become saturated very quickly in salt systems, and if you've got a skimmer (and you do), you'll find THAT of more good use.  Use the sponge just to keep a biological filter going for quarantine.
>Let's start with the live rock/sand issues.  I decided to go with 40 pounds of Arag-Alive (Fiji pink) and 30 pounds of Aragamax.  This gave me a good 5" bed.  The two blends are similar in size (.5 - 1 MM grains) and blended nicely.  My goal  was a DSB for nitrate reduction, and I think I made a good choice EXCEPT I didn't realize that Arag-alive was about as 'alive' as a
toe-nail clipping.  
>>Well, you just sorted out for yourself what I was just gonna say--save yourself the trouble and let the live rock make your sand live for you.  In my opinion, unless you're in a HUGE hurry get a tank established, don't spend your money on that, save it for better stuff.
>SO, do you recommend I get a scoop of sand from one of my LFS's?  Is a scoop enough to get it going?
>>Yes, a scoop is enough, but I wouldn't, not from a shop.  Too much chance of picking up something quite undesirable.  I would truthfully just wait it out, it WILL populate if you're using good quality live rock.
>Now on to the rock.  I got 36 pounds of Lalo rock from LiveAquaria.  I've read that this rock is less dense so .75 - 1 pound per gallon was sufficient?  
>>I don't see why not.
>I put the rock in last Friday.  So far, so good.  I've scrubbed
some dead matter off today and did a water change.  I already have some ammonia, nitrite AND nitrates...so it's working well.  The rock was just shipped to them, then to me (within hours of them receiving it) and actually didn't stink up the house like I thought it would.  I've already seen a few bristle and fire worms and lots of tiny critters I think are snails.
>>Keep doing water changes to save as much life on the rock as possible.  Also, if you haven't already, kick in the skimmer.
>Now on to the lighting.  I have the standard NO light that came with the tank package.  I want to get some Compact Fluorescents for some good coralline algae growth and maybe some of the easier corals?  I'm thinking of the 24" Coralife Aqualight.  It's 2 bulbs, one 10K and one Blue Actinic.  I'm pretty sure this would be a good choice?  
>>I agree.  You can also give something like a Tridacna derasa clam a try with such lighting.
>I know I can't go nuts with Corals due to size, but I thought maybe one or two moderate light species just for some color?  OH, the light is 130 watts total (65 per bulb).
>>You can go with lots of softies, corallimorphs and the like, be careful mixing LPS (large polyp stonies) with softies, as well as mixing LPS with Centropyge angles, it seems that flames especially love to nip at those fleshy polyps.
>Now stocking.  Of course, I need to wait till the rock is cured and the tank is stable.  I'm thinking of a pair of Clownfish (tank raised), maybe some Pajama Bottom Cardinals and a Blenny.  I was thinking of maybe a dwarf Angel....but haven't researched enough on them and don't think the tank is big enough.  
>>Aggressive, but pretty and SMALL--Centropyge argi.  Good mix, don't get Maroon or other large, aggressive clowns, though.  
>I know I want a cleaner shrimp (Scarlet Skunk), if that's not a
problem.
>>Shouldn't be.
>Now I know you all recommend NOT stocking sand sifters with a DSB, so what inverts are SAFE for a DSB?  I've read many of you recommend snails, but which type are good?  The thing I worry about most is the DSB failing due to the sand not being sifted enough...how can I tell BEFORE a problem arises?
>>I'd contact Inland Aquatics and ask them about their "cleanup crews".  Tom and Matt are VERY knowledgeable, and they won't steer you wrong.  
>I appreciate any input.  I have read LOADS of your FAQS...maybe too many as I have trouble remembering everything.  :)
>>You and me both.
>Lastly, I really enjoy your site and all of your dedication to the hobby. I just wanted to mention another site I'm a member of.  www.aquaden.com We are primarily a freshwater site, I've become pretty good friends with most of the moderators and the site owner.  It's a great place, and we have many knowledgeable members.  Our main goal is to teach people the correct way to
stock tanks, care for their fish and avoid 'tank busters'.  If you guys (and girls) could be so kind as to add us to your links, that would be great. I frequently recommend WetWeb to our other members, and if any of you find the time in between the million questions a day - stop in and say hi !!!! My member name there is NJBONGO if any of you would like to drop in and check us out.  Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.  Hopefully I can gain as much experience with saltwater as well and one day set up my 'dream reef'.
>>Good to know, my friend.  Will add note to Bob or Jason to see about adding a link.  Have fun!  Marina

Eclipse Reef Retrofit
Hi Bob,
<Actually- you have Scott F. this morning..>
I appreciate your time and any advice you might have. I currently have a freshwater 29 gal eclipse 2 system. I am planning on changing this to a marine system (my first). So far I have decided I want to put 45lbs of live rock, a protein skimmer (the best I can get but I am not sure what will fit) I would like to do HOB but I am not sure this is possible with the eclipse, 2 power heads, and I was thinking of keeping the filter and BioWheel that is
already in there if I can fit everything else in there without tearing the eclipse apart. If I can't I was going to cut holes in back and install a Fluval canister filter.
<It is a challenge, but I have seen people "retrofit" Eclipse units with HOT skimmers, like the Aqua C Remora. If you are going to attempt a complete "retrofit", you might even want to remove the BioWheel, and fill the "raceway" on top with some biological material, such as small bits of live rock, etc. You may want to check out the WWM Forums to see what other hobbyists have done to use Eclipse systems in reef-type setups>
I also am planning on installing a extra light on the underside of the back filter cover. these will be in addition to the two
fluorescents that are already present. At my LFS I saw some small bulbs that gave the water a nice deepwater look (like at the bottom of a swimming pool). I want to keep two clowns and a anemone (I have been reading all the profiles but I am not sure which would be best for a setup like this).
<I'd really implore you to pass on the anemone. They simply need more light, and possibly greater environmental stability than such a small system could provide>
I would also like a hawkfish and possibly a flame angel if I have room.
<A small Hawkfish would be interesting, but I'd pass on the Flame Angel..>
It would also be nice to keep a cleaner shrimp or two to keep things tidy.
<Cleaner shrimp would be a fine choice...>
Is this a good setup? I don't want to do it if its just enough. I want the fish in my care to live well.
<I love your philosophy and approach, which will serve you (and your animals) well. If you were starting from scratch, I would have recommended a different approach. However, as long as you are aware of the limitations of such a system, you can achieve satisfactory results.>
I also have a ten gallon I would like to use for a QT tank but I have no place to stick a small HOB filter on my main tank for
use in the QT when I need it. What would your suggestion be for this?
<A sponge filter would do great! Read up on quarantine tanks on the WWM site for more details!>
Thanks again for any gaps you can fill in for me. I have been obsessing about this for a month and I feel no closer to a solution!!
<I've been obsessing about marine tanks since I was 12 and I still don't think I'm closer to the "perfect tank", so don't expect things to change any time soon! LOL! Good luck!>
Be well, Paul
<And same to you, Paul! Regards, Scott F.>

Too small tank
Mr. Fenner <You got Cody today.>
I am about to jump into a fish only 10 gallon tank (2 clowns and a pseudochromis ...I think) and being a first time marine aquarist I want to get the proper setup.  Anyway I believe that a skimmer would be necessary and I am on a budget.  I'm debating between the Skilter 250 or a power filter / Prizm skimmer combo.<First of all I would start with a much larger tank, at least 30 gal.  A 10 would be hard to keep stable and You could only put maybe 2 clown in there if you are lucky.  I would definitely get a skimmer.>  I know you are awfully busy but if you could please reply it would be of great help to me.  Thanks so so much.  <You can find tons of info at our site www.wetwebmedia.com.>

-Making a plan-
Hey Kevin, How's it goin eh? Mike from Alberta here again. <Not bad Mike, I hope all is well on your end!>
I have my written plan in place for setting up my aquarium. I have researched for several months now and I am sure you know how thankful I am to you and the crew. <You've very welcome. I skimmed through the attached document, and it's the most thorough thing I've ever seen! I can see that you're going to have a very successful tank.> My next project is to build a custom stand. after that I start putting the plan in action. I have done all the preliminary testing of tank and filters/powerheads and no leaks found, so here we go. I put my plan together with all the resources listed (mostly from your site). put in some questions I have asked in the past and answers from your input (most grateful to you for those). I was wondering if you might take the time to read through it and give me any last suggestions before I start to implement it. Again thank you for your time. Unless I come up with something that really stumps me and I can't get the info from any articles or FAQ, I will probably be quiet for a while. Have a good winter (you can guess as to how mine will be, thank god for heaters). <Hey now, don't think that I'm like Bob or Jason laying out by the pool in January! We get pretty cold down here in Mass!>
<In the classic style of the WWM crew, I commented through the whole document. Enjoy! -Kevin>
Cheers.
Mike Tol