MarSetUpVI

FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 6


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

92 Gallon Corner (Lighting and Other Issues) - 07/16/05 Hello to all of you kind folks who volunteer your time and expertise to those of us who are learning this wonderful hobby. <<Hello, Eric R. here... (30+ years and still learning myself)>> I owe you many thanks. Having read Mr. Fenner's books and Mr. Calfo's as well as countless others, I still am so unsure of so much in this hobby. <<Me too <G>.>> It certainly is a never ending learning process. <<Now you're getting it!>> Now for my questions. I am upgrading my 55 gallon no sump setup to a 92 gallon bow front sump system. My current inhabitants are a yellow tang, a maroon and gold clownfish, a banana wrasse and the "bad" pink Dottyback (did not know the difference at the time of purchase). <<Umm...do the research "before" you make the purchase...>> I also have 2 cleaner shrimp, 2 blood shrimp and 1 feather duster. I currently only have soft corals and shrooms but want to eventually try my hand at SPS corals and a clam. My question is due to the size of the canopy, I am wondering what would be the best lighting for my future goals. <<Here's the rub...you're contemplating an unnatural (though popular) mix of organisms...some 30-60 feet difference in depth on the reef. This difference in depth makes it difficult, nay impossible, to provide optimum habitat for all in the confines of an aquarium. As such, any recommendations on lighting will be very general. Your long-term success will greatly increase if you research and pick a particular niche on the reef to replicate.>> Do I need actinic lighting with metal halide? <<Nope...virtually all MH bulbs intended for the reef hobby will contain more than enough "blue" light for the organisms needs. Actinics are usually added to please the aquarists sense of aesthetics.>> Will 2 175 metal halides be enough? <<The size/shape of this tank makes it difficult to light without overdoing it in my opinion...one is not enough for optimum coverage...two is too many. But going back to my earlier tirade <G>, if you choose deeper-water organisms you could get by with a single 175w pendant...and not to encourage...but if you can't be dissuaded to mix organisms...a single 250w pendant with the higher light requiring organisms placed accordingly would work as well...>> Also can I add any fish to this tank. <<No more tangs, please. Maybe a few Chromis or pajama cardinals, or something else along those lines, but not much more.>> I know my 55 was overstocked. <<Yes...with the tang.>> A 35" hood will fit in the canopy I think or even two 24 inch. My last question has to do with the substrate. I really want a much finer substrate than what I have in my 55. <<A sugar-fine DSB gets my vote.>> Can I use my 60+ lbs of live rock and add some more and use new substrate when I do the transfer? <<Sure...though it's my opinion most folks, as a rule, use more rock than necessary. You might find the 60+ lbs. you have will provide a nice open and attractive look to the new tank.>> Once again thanks so very much for all your help and time in helping us succeed in this wonderful hobby. J. Howell <<Regards, Eric R.>>

Preamble to the Constitution <smile> Thank you for the books and the website! I feel like I spent more on reference books than equipment ... but it's saved me some expensive errors and some tragically dead animals. <yes... the wisdom is worth far more than the equipment> The only drawback is I see wondrous things that I want that nobody else has heard of or has...I have a 29 gal that I set it up with the rock (finished original cycling this February) and a copperband angel and some soft corals and shrooms, looked at it and realized that there would be no room for the fish if I filled it with corals, so got a short wide 65 gal, more equipment, more rock. The rock in both tanks has a lot of little interconnected caves and hidey holes. due to compatibility issues it's ending up the 29 gal is soft corals and mushroom anemones and the 65 gal is hard corals, with neutral polyps, sponges, and corals in both tanks. <bless your heart I wish more of our reef aquarist friends were wise in this way... they would be much more successful in the long run (5+ years and not just 1-3 years)>> I have compact fluorescents over both tanks, will get a metal halide over the big tank next. <if your hard coral are LPS instead of SPS you may not need it> have a Sea-Clone protein skimmer that I switch back and forth between the two tanks and any quarantine/curing tanks running separate from these (can't afford a second, and seeing how long I can go without so food builds up for the shrooms and sponges without degrading the water quality), <do upgrade as soon as possible to two full time skimmers... it is much better to feed controlled and deliberately rather than random accumulation of untestable nutrients> and a penguin or emperor Biowheel on each tank. eventually will hook them together with a plant refugium on top and a sponge /scrubber on the bottom--trying to get so that the tank filters itself naturally and produces enough food to feed crinoids and Dendronephthya corals (my dream...). <very interesting... best of luck with it and publish your results somehow (paper, net conversation/message boards, etc)> Water quality is good--no ammonia or nitrites, nitrates at about 18 in the big tank ( no skimmer for about 2 weeks with all the fish and the food) and about 7 in the small tank--soft corals, sponges, skimmer on for half the time the last 2 weeks. I'm feeding live plankton to both tanks and I've got rotifers and Cyclops and those micro-curved shrimp things <amphipods> and some other unidentified beasties visible only with a 20x hand lens doing nicely, when the refugium is set up will transfer a bunch and should have micro-crusto-snacks available for all. <love the improvised name <G>> I've been stocking this slowly, in part being good, in part because everything I add shifts the equation slightly, in part because some of the beasties I want are hard to find and/or really expensive, and mostly because I'm out of money ; ) <yes... I've always wanted to be rich and handsome myself... I'm holding out for rich someday...heehee> Fishwise I have a mated pair of gold striped maroon clownfish, she's about 5 inches, he's about 2.5 inches, a copperband butterfly (I named Fido cuz it comes to the glass wagging it's tail every time I come up to the tank or especially if it sees me opening the freezer where it's Marine Cuisine is--what do you mean they don't eat? mine's a pig! got lucky on this sweetie...) that's about 5", <actually the complaint is not that they don't eat.. almost all do. The problem for many folks (that lack the diversity of natural plankton that you have) is that they don't SURVIVE on prepared food alone... big difference> and a full grown lawnmower blenny that may get traded in if the tank gets too full cuz the snails do a lot better job of algae cleaning, and with great trepidation a small Hawaiian pink and green cucumber that hangs out in front of one of the powerheads licking its chops <which is a particularly unsavory mental picture for me because these echinoderms have a uni-purpose oral/anal orifice> (intake of powerhead inaccessible, and once it found this spot it hasn't moved in a month. a live protein skimmer....).The clownfish don't seem very aggressive, all current fish get along just great (tho feeding is a frenzy--a lot more equal since I put in two big powerheads in the 65 along with 2 smaller ones and have a good laminar flow going, so they have to chase the food, but it remains in suspension long enough for them to clean it all up and for the gorgonians to get some), <many of the gorgonians favoring phytoplankton> and the butterfly got along fabulously with the red-head goby <yes... I like red-heads too. Dark Brunettes are tops in my book, though> that best I can tell I lost along with half my crabs, snails, and my miniature blue-legged banded cleaner shrimp in the tank in a palythoa meltdown-whaaa, sweet fish, I miss it. first major loss of livestock and it hurt) but I was wondering what would happen when the clownfish get in their bubble-tipped anemone (it's coming today! yay!), <ahhh... a question finally <smile>> and if I add some smaller fish. <what was the question again? <wink>> Researching what would be safe in a reef aquarium and with each other, I ended up with a list of complete pacifists. <also known as Backstreet Boys fans> I'm also getting 3-4 Thor ambionensis shrimp to go on 3 flower anemones in the 29 gal, and some Carpenter's wrasses, some neon gobies, tunicates (way cool), sponges, 3 scallops (I should have enough food for them now) 10 small brittle stars, and a spiny oyster. I want to eventually get goby/shrimp pairs, and after I get the metal halide and some Acropora, get some of the gobiodons to hang out in it. was also considering Tridacnas , maybe an Anthias (yes, I know better, I've resisted so far), a mated pair of royal grammas, algae-eating nudibranchs (if I can find ones that will eat what I can provide), and some cleaner-type shrimp (the last three also for eggs and zooplankton). <bloody hell... you don't need a bigger tank, you need a saltwater swimming pool! Ha!> I'm assuming if they go in the 65 gal, that a sand-dwelling goby and a water-column goby and a coral-head goby would be in different enough habitats that they shouldn't bother each other, <assuming there is enough water for them to fit after that list of livestock> and the Carpenter's wrasses shouldn't bother anyone. <certainly not... out of fear of consuming too much oxygen in precious little displaced water> The copperband just books around peering into nooks and crannies for food, and only bothers small micro crustaceans and feather dusters which it devours with glee. Where should I put the maroon clownfish in this equation? put them and their anemone in the 29 gal with the flower anemones and the T. ambionensis so they don't bug anyone, fish or corals (and possibly precludes putting future Stonogobioides and Alpheus randallii in the 29 gal because I've read they shouldn't be with other fish) or leave them in the big aquarium where the Bubbletip anemone will get halide lighting, and hope they don't beat the pulp out of the flasher wrasses (put the wrasses in the little tank?) <the anemone itself will fare better under brighter light.. but I would never recommend an anemone with any corals...especially smaller reef tanks. It really is a bit irresponsible considering their allelopathy and motile nature imposed upon the sessile corals> or that the anemone doesn't go tap-dancing across the lps and future sps corals? Didn't do enough homework on these before I got them, and can't find enough now to know for sure. <your intuition is right on. The needs of the anemone and the aggression of the clowns make them a candidate for a species tank by a window (natural sunlight <smile>) by themselves> Sorry this is so long, tried to at least make it enjoyable. Thanks! --Kari Yanskey <very enjoyable my friend... thank you for putting up with my humor/sarcasm as well. I do believe that I have found in you someone in greater need of sedation than myself. Best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Re: "the preamble to the constitution" II "...I do believe that I have found in you someone in greater need of sedation than myself. Best regards, Anthony Calfo> never fear, got that part under control--the Nardil (a MAOI antidepressant) is working wonders! <<perhaps we can get bulk discount together <smile>> I want a REEF out my front door, tho the saltwater swimming pool is an intriguing idea (slap myself upside the head, and tell myself "don't even go there"....), but, alas, I must settle for "Mini-Reef-In-A-Glass-Boxes instead. <the sick part is that I'm still thinking about how to pull it off one day myself...heehee> I promise if I bug you again I will edit the content <no worries... just my sense of humor. It was a pleasure reading your enthusiastic message> (hmmm, dig a hole. pour concrete, doesn't have to be glass if I can snorkel in it, put in solar water heaters, don't need artificial lighting, if the kelp from the live rock gets big enough I could have sea otters in sunglasses floating on the surface drinking Pina Coladas out of glasses with little umbrellas, <wow...sea otters are a whole new level of cool that I have never considered. Thank you!> the skimmer for that sucker would have to be HUGE...quit it, don't even think about it) for better brevity and clarity. ("..I have a 20,000 gallon aquarium in my backyard. how do I keep all the neighborhood kids out of it without getting sharks?--compatibility issues, you know, let alone liability issues....") <I'm thinking a sign warning that approach within 20 feet will increase their IQ should be sufficient> Thanks for the answer, it helps immensely....and the cucumber has a hole at the other end "where what goes in must come out" goes out--I saw it do its thing, and read about little fish that live in some of them that enter and exit through that orifice (now there's a creepy thought). <called a pearl fish... I have imported these with sea cucumbers... just horrifying to think of. I'm sitting more upright in my chair just thinking about it!> Never thought that would be something I'd tell a total stranger--isn't the internet amazing? <very much so... happy reef keeping. And have an antidepressant cocktail on me <wink>. Kind regards, Anthony>

re-setup aquarium (3k gallons, in the Philippines) Dear Bob, It's me Jonathan from Cebu city Philippines. I'm finally gonna re-setup a hotel's 3000gal aquarium, its 30ft long, 6ft tall and 2 ft wide. <Wowzah, what a project!> here's my plan... 1. fill with 10inches of DSB and a ton of LR <Mmm, I would limit the substrate depth to no more than five inches... for function and looks. No benefit from deeper> 2. no filters or sump <Do make provision for adding... at least circulation, aeration.> 3. run NSW in for 3 hrs a day thru a pump (1000g/hr), the overflow drains back to the ocean. <A nice luxury to have> 4. put only 2 powerheads and 2pc of 2 ft airstone on each side blown by a air blower. <Oh!> (not sure about the Powerheads because of fears of the stray voltage the tank cleaner reported last year. and I was ordered not to put any) if not permitted to do so, I will put airstones on the entire length of the tank and bubbles will serve as the back ground...what do you think? unsightly? <"Beauty is in the eye...". Two on the sides will do about all the good they can here> 5. put in 3 large angels, 5 dwarf angels, 8 tangs, clowns and damsel and other peaceful fish. question... 1. will that be enough oxygenation? <Should be... but will have to be a "strong" blower to make the depth, back-pressure. Do check into what you need before purchasing... "blowers" are mainly designed, intended for shallow water, many outlets... not just a couple of great depth> 2. will the water quality be okay given a moderate to high number of fish load <Mmm, likely not acceptable in the long term... better to have at least some mechanical and chemical filtration... to remove particulates, color... and a skimmer> 3. what problems do you see coming? <Number one, patience... such a big system of this "sailboat" approach (lack of mechanicals), will likely require a few months to run w/o fishes... hard to have all wait for it to "settle in"... Likely seasonal, time-to-time difficulties of new water quality (pests, parasites, pollution) from the daily pumping in of new water w/o elaborate procedures to filter, store it enroute> oh and one separate question... I added a 4inch live cocktail shrimp in my tank., I've noticed that it buries almost all his body except his eyes. I only see him at night. Is he eating all my pods and worms in the sand? Should I remove him? What I like about it is it keeps my sand turned and lumpy like little hills. <Normal behavior... likely eating all sorts of organisms (more scavengers than predators), and I would leave it as a pet. Interesting and beautiful> Thanks, hope to here from you, Jonathan <Keep a log, and photos of your progress. Bob Fenner>

New Reef Tank Set-Up Dear Wet Web Media Crew: <Steven Pro this morning.> I wrote to you recently about a new tank that I had ordered. It was to be a 60 gallon flat back hex. Long story short, I chickened out and decided to go with glass since acrylic scratches so easy. Anyway the new tank will be here in a few weeks and I wanted to run it by you to see if you have any thing you would change. It's a 58 gallon Oceanic Reef Ready tank....It will have a special 12" high canopy that has doors that open like a cupboard in which to place 1-250watt MH 10,000k bulb. The LFS guy is going to place 2 or 3 fans in the hood and there will be no glass cover for the tank (will I escape buying a chiller?). <It depends on your room temperature. Try to keep the water temperature from fluctuating more than 2 degrees between day and night with a maximum of 82F.> The tank measures 36.5x18.5x21.5. There will be an Eco System with 5 pounds of Miracle Mud (is this enough?) in the lower compartment. <It depends on the Mud compartment size. I would go with Leng Sy's recommendations.> The LFS guy will place Caulerpa (sp) in the system which will be lit 24/7. He said I am not to use a protein skimmer that it would defeat the Miracle Mud purpose. I plan on ordering about 30 pounds of Florida aquacultured LR and 30 pounds of Marshall Island LR (is this enough?). <30 lbs. of Florida aquacultured stuff is not a lot of rock because it is so dense.> He said it should be cured before it's introduced to the tank. I plan on having about a 1/2" sand bed (pink flamingo). I eventually want to have softies and LPS corals and about 3 to 4 fish. <The 250 watt MH sounds like overkill for LPS and soft corals. Look for a 175 watt 10,000 K Aqualine-Buschke lamp.> Is this a good set up? <See above notes.> Do I need to add power heads for circulation? The LFS guy will put a Rio 2500 in for the return. Is this enough, and is the Rio dependable? <I would prefer a larger, the RIO 2500 is rated for about 700 gph at no head pressure, external mounted pump. Something around 1000 gph at no head pressure with multiple outlets. You can build a simple loop of 1" PVC around the tank perimeter with four 3/4" outlet T's. These T's should have adjustable piping at their ends for control.> I've heard horror stories about them! Thanks for the help.....I really appreciate it:) Janey <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

New Aquarium I have a 38 gallon salt water tank and I wanted to get a 55 gallon tank I was wondering if I could take all my live rock and 80lbs. of live sand and the 38 gallons of water and just add 17 gallons of new could I put the fish in right away <Yes, this can be done.> or do I need to wait for the tank to cycle? Wouldn't it be like just doing a water change? <Yes> I have a Naso Tang, 2 Damsels, a Foxface, a Lion Fish and a Bicolor Angel. <Wow, that is a lot of fish even for a 55. The Naso is going to need a standard 180 gallon tank minimum.> Thank you for your help. <You are welcome. I would save your money a little longer and get a much larger tank. The 55 is really not that much larger than a 38. -Steven Pro>

Re: Fish Filters and Rocks oh my. Anthony, thanks to all your help my fresh to marine conversation is well underway. <my pleasure... marine aquaria are a most exciting and rewarding extension of the hobby> I have all equipment and most is already up and running sans the protein skimmer which I have yet to receive. My live rock order is coming in on Tuesday from ff express. <do compensate with extra water changes on the new live rock for a week or so after arrival (assuming the skimmer hasn't arrived or you haven't learned to tweak it just yet). Ask about if you have any concerns with the "curing" process for your live rock... much livestock can be gained or lost in the process> The lighting I will be using is a power compact hood with two compact lamps in it totaling 110 watts along with my old 30 watt strip light running actinic 03. The lamps that came in the compact are 9325 degree super daylite for salt water tanks. Are they adequate? supposedly they are.... <very appropriate for hardy/beginners corals too if you go that route (and of course it is a fine set up for fish. not too stark, nicely blue cast)... the color of the lamps is closer to the blue/green end of the spectrum (as opposed to shallow water "daylight" near 6500K)..and deep water corals like mushrooms, and other Zoantharians will thrive nicely under this light. Many soft coral too. Do resist clams and sps stony corals for the most part> ( breaking down that old UG was quite ugly.... not for my salt tank! :)) Well thanks again. Brian <very welcome, my friend. Anthony>

Professional Help? Hi Bob, I'm really confused, I've gotten advice from many people from local dealers to more professional avenues, I guess I'm at my wits end. I really hope you could help me out? <Perhaps. There are "many paths". You must choose your own.> I just purchased a 180 gallon acrylic aquarium with built in overflows. I had been in the process of buying everything slowly because I wanted to do it right and make sure that I had efficient equipment. I also just purchased an acrylic top which I had 4 VHO lights installed 110 watt, 6 foot lights. I also just purchased a Mag-Drive 1200 and 1800 which I was going to use with a wet dry and a protein skimmer in which the dealer said was comparable to the ETS? <Don't know either what this person told you or what you are attempting to make a comparison with> I am planning on doing a Fish only tank, mainly large fish such as Sharks, Angels, Tangs....... <Not sharks> I just got recommended by another source that I should not get a wet-dry and get a Euro-reef Protein Skimmer with a Sump, I have no idea what a Sump is or how to get one? <Oh! Please read over our principal site: www.WetWebMedia.com starting with the Marine System Set-Up sections: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marindind2.htm> Could you please shed some light on this and what you recommended? I want an efficient system but not over-due it, I just want some honest advice, what would you get if this were your tank? <Depends on what my wishes were... what types of livestock, what I hoped to do with them, my budget, time frame> Also where can I get a copy of your book, I heard allot of good reviews on it? Where and what's the name of it? <Likely "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist". You will find links on WWM for this... its sold by on-line booksellers as well.> Thank you so much, Jerry <We have much to discuss, share. Take your time here. Buy nothing more till you have a better understanding of what your choices are. There is time. Bob Fenner>

New tank start up with wet dry. Bob, I am setting up a new tank which consists of a 100 gallon w/dual overflows plumbed out the bottom which lead to a large (rated for use of up to 240 gallons) wet dry filter. I am also using a protein skimmer. I have read your Conscientious Marine Aquarist and also The New Marine Aquarium by Michael Paletta. In reading both of these and speaking to three well known and reputable dealers in my area I had decided to use the aforementioned hardware along with 50 to 100 pounds of live rock. <Sounds like you've been studying> I intend to initialize this system as a fish and hardy invert tank with hopes of progressing to a full blown reef if I am successful. Unfortunately now I do not know if I made the right choice in filtration after reading the answers to the many wet dry e-mails you have posted on your site. Should I forget about using the bio balls in the wet dry as I cycle my tank? Should I use only a partial amount or all of them? Should I go ahead and turn this filter into a sump? All of the local people I have spoken with suggested using the bio balls. Am I headed for uncontrollable nitrate levels? <For now, practice using the gear "as it is"... you can easily remove the plastic biomedia, make the sump into a refugium later. No worries> Please help me. I lay awake at night and ponder these issues. My wife thinks I've gone over the deep end ( pun intended ). <You're making my day. Enjoy the process my friend. Bob Fenner> Thank you for being so dedicated to the hobby and making yourself available. Best regards, Kevin Miller <Be chatting.>

Setup Question??? Robert, I really appreciate your taking the time to read this. I have a 125 gallon with a 40 gallon sump/wet-dry filter. I also have a UV sterilizer and a Berlin Classic Skimmer. Right now I just set up the tank with 125 lbs of Grotto (Lava) rock and 3 inches of Dry aragonite and 1 inch of live sand. The salinity is 1.023 and the temp is 77. I have not done anything else to the tank as I am pondering my choices. <Sounds like a very nice set-up... and you are wise/fortunate to have such patience> It has been running a week and obviously the cycle has yet to even really start. I am not going to keep any corals and am debating keeping what I have for a FO system. However, after reading the very well written book by Paletta, I am left with confusion. Should I pull out the grotto and bioballs and go to the FOWLR system? <Not for now> What is best for what I have? Should I use the UV in a FOWLR system? <Yes, this is fine, beneficial> I am about as confused as can be and would love some direction. The installer I bought the system recommended either go reef or go fish only, not a hybrid. <Mmm, keep studying, discoursing with others... considering your possibilities. Perhaps start off with a few hardy fishes for now... adding some macro-algae, tougher invertebrates as you become more familiar... enjoy the journey, not longing for only its end> The main issue is with medicating the tank as I am sure you have heard before. Any detailed help is much appreciated. <Medication? Do please read through the acclimation, quarantine articles, FAQs and linked pages on the Marine Index of WetWebMedia.com... You can, and want to avoid treating your main/display system.> Please advise as to what is best for keeping fish such as perc clown, potters angel, purple tang and possibly a blue faced or Emperor angel. <Much to say here my friend. Do please read over the materials on these organisms posted on WWM (there is a search feature on the various indices, but I encourage your perusal by reading the titles). I would eschew the use of the Potter's, the Blue-Faced Angels... not easy species...> FO with what I have or gut it and put in LR with Skimmer and UV. Thanks! Adam <Do use at least some live rock... For now, read through our principal site, and we'll chat more. Bob Fenner>

Time to vent!!! Hello everyone, are you there Robert? <<Robert is here, but this is JasonC>> May I vent? Okay, here goes! I feel this close, < > to ripping down my reef tank! The problem is that I've put so much money into it, that I'll have to continue to struggle with it. Now I know why I didn't pursue this hobby 15 years ago. I had a salt water set up then too, and if my memory serves correct, it didn't work out. But, like childbirth, you forget the pain and do it again. <<wouldn't know about that last part, but the rest, well... is not uncommon.>> I feel the need to write to everyone out there that is embarking into this hobby, to share the most important secret of success........PATIENCE! <<indeed - a truer truth has never been told.>> I thought I was using patience when I started this tank, "Go slow" I kept telling myself, ..."Plan". Well, I guess I mistook my lack of funds, for patients. It was slow going because this hobby can be very costly as we all know. <<again, quite true, although many of these costs we force upon ourselves. Does not need to be this way.>> I read the books and thought I knew what I was doing, but I was really relying on the guys at the local pet shop, they seemed very knowledgeable, but the problem was that they all seemed to have read different books! No one agreed on anything,....power trip?,......maybe. <<and then again, maybe not. You and I can read the same book and interpret it differently, yes?>> They see a "helpless female" walk in the door wanting to spend money, (you know the rest of the story). Now, I struggle with many things because I didn't really do my homework. <<or perhaps stick by your guns.>> 1) I didn't and don't have a deep enough layer of sand. This should have been one of the first things to get straight. The guys at the shop all had differing opinions, so I met them 1/2 way, and put in 2 inches. BAD DEAL, "no mans land" as the experts here at WWM say. <<well, and even among the experts, there are still differences of opinion. 2" is good, but more is always better.>> 2) Live Rock, how much is enough? <<as much as you can afford.>> Again, didn't have this clear either. If I had know the importance of it, I would have filled the tank at the rate of @ 2lbs. per gallon. <<doubt that would have fit ;-) >> I have 1lb. per. g. <<more than adequate.>> 3) Powerheads, oh those glorious, torturous, powerheads. Who else is getting wet up to their elbows every other day because the stupid things keep falling down?!! <<clean the glass first.>> If I had known,......... I would have situated them nicely and hopefully out of view, behind the LR. But now, I need more LR, more substrate, AND , more patience! <<you have plenty of live rock and substrate, more patience will never hurt.>> So everyone out there, do your self a favor, and plan, plan, plan! Pamela <<Got it, thanks for the input. Cheers, J -- >>

Lights & other necessary equipment Mr. Fenner, <You reached Steven Pro today. Anthony Calfo & I are helping answer questions for the time being.> I am currently reading your book ( Conscientious Marine Aquarist ) and I think it's fantastic. I grew-up and live in Kentucky. So I obviously didn't have the pleasure of growing up around the sea or knowing anything at all about the creatures that live in it. I am new to marine aquariums and am trying to comprehend all the information that surrounds the initial setup. I have a new 75 gal tank with 50 lbs of Live Rock ( uncured ), 50 lbs of Atlantic Coral Rock and 80 lbs of Live Sand . I am currently letting the tank cycle for about 4 weeks. I wanted to know how much light I will need if I plan on having fish, invertebrates and coral in the tank. I am not sure if I should use 4 standard 48" full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs ( mentioned in your book ) or should I use one CustomSeaLife PowerCompact with 2 65w bulbs which I am currently looking at as well. The CSL PC comes with 2 50% 10,000K daylight and 50% actinic lights. I would like to use what's best, but I would also like to also consider the up front, operation and replacement cost of the bulbs. Also I would like your recommendations on filters (power or wet/dry) and protein skimmers. Please try being specific (make & models) if you could. <You need to make some decisions first before I can be of any assistance. Do you want a fish tank or a reef tank? People who try to do both usually end up with a mess. Also, are you going to have a sump? My recommendations on equipment will be affected by your decisions. I can give you a few ideas. I prefer to use purified water. A reverse osmosis unit is your best bet.> Thanks, Tom Schumacher, a brand new conscientious marine aquarist. <Hope to hear from you soon. -Steven Pro>

RE: lights & other necessary equipment Steven, I would like to have fish and invertebrates for sure in the tank & whatever coral that can co-exist with them. I assume I will have to select marine fish that don't eat coral or invertebrates. <Good assumption. Think clownfish, Chromis, a small wrasse, etc.> I currently have the following equipment. 75 gallon perfecto glass aquarium & stand. Whisper 5 power filter 2 Hagan 301 powerheads for aeration and water movement. <If you have those little airline things hooked up, I would remove them. The salt creep will get ridiculous.> 50 lbs of Fiji Live Rock uncured. 50 lbs of Atlantic Coral Rock 80 lbs of Live sand I was probably going to buy a hang on type Protein Skimmer since I don't have a wet/dry filter & sump. <Look at Red Sea Berlin and Aqua-C units.> I also have decided since my original email of going with the CSL PowerCompact SmartLite. I was sold on the energy efficient electronic ballast and 50 - 50 Smartlites. <Much better than the standard wattage lights. You will probably need a total of four 55 watt lamps for most photosynthetic inverts.> I also am considering a reverse osmosis unit for the water changes. -Tom Schumacher <Another good idea. -Steven Pro>

RE: lights & other necessary equipment Steven, I agree with the salt creep from the airline on the powerhead. The airlines also creates a lot of noise sucking in air. So I should just use the powerheads to help create current in the water? <Yes. You may need to get larger ones or more later.> Will I have enough aeration if I remove the airline from the powerheads? <Yes, if the powerheads are arranged to provide surface agitation.> Do the Protein Skimmers also help with aeration? <Yes> As you can see by what I have in the tank, I am trying the Berlin-Style Filtration (Live Rock, Live Sand & Protein Skimming ) with good circulation and lighting. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm <My preferred method for reef keeping.> Thanks, Tom Schumacher <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

RE: lights & other necessary equipment Steven, Of the 2 hang-on model protein skimmers that you mentioned (Red Sea Berlin and Aqua-C units). Is one more efficient than the other? Which one is quieter? Are there any maintenance issues that make one better than the other? Looking for the most quiet, efficient model for my money. I would like to make decision soon. If I have to drain tank with live rock and live sand and move it out from the wall ( Currently have about 3.5 " of clearance behind tank) I would like to do it before I start buying fish, inverts or corals. Also I noticed that I have something already in my tank that I think was inside the uncured live rock. It's about 3 inches long. It looks kind of like a caterpillar or 1000 legger. Whatever it is, should I remove it from tank or leave it in there since it came with live rock or sand.? It's hard to find in tank, it seems to quickly move from one hiding spot to another. <I have never personally used the Aqua-C models, but I had heard a lot of great things about them. I would option for the upgraded pump, avoid the Rio's. The Remora from Aqua-C is pretty thin and you may not have to move your tank to fit it. The Berlin skimmers now come with their pumps included. I think they label these as "turbo" models. They are definitely wider than the Aqua-C and you will probably have to move the tank. I am sure you will be happy with either. For more info, check out the links http://proteinskimmer.com/ and http://www.redseafish.com/ The creature you described is a bristle worm. You can read more about them and see some pictures here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polychaetes.htm> Thanks, Tom Schumacher <Be chatting, Steven Pro>

Setting Up New Salt Tank Hello. First of all, I would like to say that Wet Web Media is excellent and has helped me get into the exciting world of saltwater aquaria. I spend hours a week browsing over it. Well, I started my 29 gallon aquarium (small, I know, but that was all that size limitations would allow) about 2 months ago. My question is, do I have adequate filtration? I have a millennium 3000 power filter and a modified SeaClone protein skimmer. I also have a maxi-jet powerhead for circulation and about 10 lbs of live rock and 25 lbs of non-live base rock. I currently have 2 damsels, and I have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and nitrates are at 15 ppm. I plan on eventually adding more live rock as I get more money. I also plan on upgrading my lighting to 110 watt PC. I plan on eventually getting one or two more small fish and possibly an anemone. <I would not recommend the anemone. Many captive raised clownfish (especially Ocellaris) will host in just about any invertebrate. Toadstool leather corals make a good surrogate and are considerably easier to keep alive.> Is this system adequate? If not, how could I upgrade without causing me to go broke? <This seems adequate for your tank and your plans for one or two more small fish.> I am a college student, so I don't have a ton of money. Thank you for your time in answering my questions. <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Sincerely, Mike Ripple

Reef Tank Question Dear Robert, <You actually reached Steven Pro, taking his shift answering questions. Anthony Calfo and I are helping Bob for awhile.> Firstly I would like to thank you for the reams of valuable info on your web site and in your book. I currently have a D.A.S. 75g flat back hex tank. Lighting is via (2) 48" std fluorescent. Tank has (2) pieces of plastic (cover) which slide/lift out. (no hood) The lights sit on 2 strips of glass approx. 3 above the water line (manufacturers design). There is only 2" between these glass strips and tank cover. Filtration is via internal built in box filter with protein skimmer and Eheim 2215. I currently have 3 damsels in tank. All readings ( am, ni, na) at 0. I would like to set up as a fish and hardy invert system similar to arrangement # 2 in your book. I'm considering 50 lbs live rock, some hardy soft corals and a few inverts. My thoughts are to install a CSL 36" long 2X96w retro and lay it on the (2) glass strips. What are your thoughts? <The lighting seems adequate for some photosynthetic inverts. Are you keeping the standards fixtures, too or replacing with the CF? If you can fit both, my recommendation would be to use full spectrum CF lamps with actinics in the standard fixture. If not, mix the two CF lamps.> Lastly is R.O. water must for this system. <Maybe not a must, but would definitely help. I try to use purified water whenever possible. Reduces contaminants, nutrients levels, and saves money over the long haul by not having as many "problems". -Steven Pro> Thanks in advance. Rocco

Taking Over an Old Tank in Need of Some TLC Hello to whom ever reads this email. I am writing to ask few questions. I have done much research on your web site as well as many books and other sites online. I just recently took over the care of a 75 gallon reef aquarium. My friend can't maintain it any longer and has sadly given up on reef keeping. She sold me the whole set up and we just moved it to my house. My husband and I are very excited about this. We have devoted a lot of time to selecting new equipment. There was never a skimmer used in the tank. We ordered a Euro-Reef yesterday. <A very nice piece of equipment and a good decision to add a skimmer.> We also noticed that the coral that are in the tank are not getting sufficient lighting, we are upgrading that as well. <Go slowly with this. You do not want to shock them. I could give you a better idea if I knew what you had and what you wanted to change to.> Along with a refugium and more live rock, as well as an RO for water changes. <All good decisions.> My question is if you feel it would be too much of an upgrade all at once. The lights will not be added until later (we will go slowly adding that) but we are worried about the coral and livestock right now. It is very murky in the tank. A green film covers the glass and parts of the sand. BGA we know, we have more circulation to add in the way powerheads. There is also a brown hairy algae growing all over the rocks. Taking over the coralline algae. The water reads at SG 1.023, temperature is 80 degrees. Ammonia zero, nitrites zero, nitrates 40ppm, Ca is 350 and alk is 10dkh. We add B-Ionic to keep the alk & Ca up. Our pH reads on average 8.5, it sounds rather high to me but my husband says not to worry, should I? <This depends on the test kit. Some do not read very true. It does sound a little high, but nothing I would be worried about yet. It sounds like you have quite a few other concerns to address.> If we, over a course of a week, do a 10% water change with the RO water, start the skimmer, fire up the refugium, add circulation and add some (now curing in our garage) live rock, will our fish (yellow tang, neon goby, royal gramma) and coral (open brain, maze brain, xenia, red and blue mushrooms, hammer, and bubble) go into clean water shock? <The RO water changes with the skimmer will help to kill off the undesirable algae and take any yellow compounds out of the water. The latter is going to allow better light penetration and may slightly shock your corals.> Could such a event cause them any harm? <Probably nothing drastic as long as you do not couple all of this with the new lights. Give you corals a month or more to adjust to the move and your better maintenance before upgrading the lights.> I know that what we are doing is good for them, but they all seem to be use to (though they are not looking good because of it) crappy water and an unsightly algae environment. Oh, another addition will be a cleaner shrimp and about 20 or so Astrea snails. Should we wait on that? <You may wish to wait just because you will have so many other things going on.> I hope you are not overwhelmed by the long letter here. I wanted to give as much information as I can so you can understand my concerns. Basically I guess we are asking if this will be to much good all at once? Sincerely -Ronnie Flanders <No problem! Glad to have such a concerned individual joining our ranks. -Steven Pro>

Getting Better All the Time <You actually have Steven now. Bob is off traveling. He was in Cleveland last night and now off to Detroit.> I found the WetWebMedia site for the first time last night, and now realize I've been missing out on something wonderful. I was beginning to think that the questions I have would be too obscure or specialized to find answers. I spent hours combing previous post to absorb as much as possible. Thank you Bob (Steven, Anthony and anyone else who works on the site) for such a valuable resource. My tank is a 45 high containing approx. 35 pounds of live rock. It has been up and running for about a year. The rock was added piece by piece over the last year. I've had 4 Damsels in the tank which grew quite large. This week I took the Damsels back the my local pet store and added a Coral Beauty Angel, Copper-Banded Butterfly, and a Mandarin Goby/Dragonets. <The dwarf angel is a nice, hardy fish if the collectors treated it properly. The Butterfly and Mandarin are difficult feeders. Mandarin generally only ever eat live foods. My usual recommendation is 100+ gallons of mature reef tank so that they will have enough area/resources to search for food. Unfortunately, most starve to death over 6 months to a year.> Probably not the 3 easiest fish to care for, but I am dedicated to making it work. I have an Emperor 400 filter and a one piece undergravel filter plugged on one end and a powerhead on the other. There is also a submersible heater. This has been my setup for the past year. This week when I added the new fish I also added a Bak Pak 2 protein skimmer with Bio-Bale. I have 3 questions: 1. Do you think that the Emperor with it's Biowheel and carbon cartridges are going to compete with the Bak Pak's Bio Bale and/or the undergravel filter? In other words, should I remove the undergravel filter or Emperor 400? <It would have been a good idea to do this (removing the U.G. and adding a live sand bed) when you removed the damsels and did not have any fish.> 2. If I do get rid of the undergravel filter would you recommend leaving the powerhead suctioned to the tank with no tube? <It is always nice to have some extra current.> 3. This last question is spurred by the added pump with the Bak Pak 2. Do you recommend using products that neutralize electrical currents released by pumps/powerheads? Thanks for the great site - David <Glad you enjoy it. Steven Pro>

Time to Upgrade Lights? Dear Mr. Fenner: <You actually have Steven Pro here. Anthony Calfo and myself are filling in while Bob is away.> Hello, I hope all is well! I was hoping you could help me with what will be a future concern. I will be moving within several months and at the moment I have a 125-gallon reef setup and a 60-gallon fish setup. Since I am moving I figured I might as well get a bigger tank, so that I could transfer everything from the 125 and 60 tanks to a 207-gallon tank. The tank dimensions would be 72Lx28Wx24H. I figured that these dimensions provide about a 207-gallon tank; however, if I have the overflow box keep the water about 2 inches from the top, it roughly averages out to 189 gallons. Anyways, what I want to do is put the lights from my 125-gallon (384 watts) into the 189-gallon, but is that enough light to still maintain a reef tank? <Maybe not, it depends on what exactly we are talking about; MH, VHO, or PC. My best guess is you are talking about PC.> All I have right now as far as coral is 1 Euphyllia divisa (frogspawn coral), 2 baby Sarcophyton (glaucum?), 1 Turbinaria peltata (cup coral), 2 stalks of Pumping Xenia, 1 Briareum rock (green star polyp), 1 Pseudopterygorgia elisabethae (purple frilly), 1 frag of Scleronephthya (strawberry coral), 1 Zoanthid rock, 1 Yellow polyp rock, 1 Alcyonium (colt coral), and the rest are assorted mushrooms and 1 three inch Tridacna maxima. With 384 watts I have 2 watts per gallon on the 189-gallon tank. With careful placement will my corals be able to continue thriving, seeing that they had 3 watts per gallon in my 125? <Probably not. Most of your corals are not too light demanding except for your clam. And your new tank will be considerably deeper.> Also, what size of a sump would be efficient enough for the plenum I will install, yet also if power shuts off it will leave at least 4 inches of space after it drains? <This will depend on your plumbing and stand to a great extent. Bigger is always better. I would try to get at least 75 gallons.> And lastly I have an AquaC EV-150 protein skimmer on my 125, will that be enough for the new 189-gallon tank I plan on setting up? I have written you before and have always been given wonderful, sound advice and I thank you very much in helping me out! Thank you, James

Good Information Gathering Hello Mr. Fenner, <You actually reached Steven. Anthony Calfo and myself are filling in for Bob as he travels.> I am new to the salt water aquarium world. I purchased from a friend, a 65 gal Sea Clear System II aquarium with built in wet dry filter, protein skimmer, 60 lbs. pounds of live rock (give or take a few pounds), sea sand & crushed corral base. It is a fish only tank. I am trying to learn as much as possible about my new hobby so I don't kill too many fish or my wallet. I purchased a test kit and my water test results were as follows. PH-8.3 <Good is 8.2-8.4> Nitrite-0 <You always want this to be 0.> Ammonia-25ppm <Same goes here, 0.> Nitrate-20ppm <For a fish tank, usually less than 40 is ok but the closer to 0 you are the better.> I don't really know if these results are good or bad. The tank has been running for about 4 months now. The fish I have are 1 purple tang, 1 Naso tang, <A rather large growing fish for your tank, Naso lituratus has an adult size of 18".> 1 powder blue tang, 1huma trigger and a maroon clown. All the fish are about the same size 3-4 inches, except the clown is about 1-2 inches. They all seem healthy. They are very active and eat well. I have no clue how much food to feed them. I think I over feed them, I give them 1 cube of formula 1 algae, 2-3 cubes of some frozen stuff from the local fish store and usually clip a piece of seaweed in the tank. I also tend to give them some spirulina flake food at night as well. <The best advise I can give you is to feed small amounts frequently. Whatever your fish can consume in less than one minute without any food hitting the bottom of the tank or being sucked up into the filters.> I have been changing about 10 gals of water per week. The fish store guy advised me to remove the bio balls from the back of my tank and put add'l live rock in it's place. Is that a smart idea? Is my water okay? <See above.> The water tends to be a little cloudy for a couple of days after water changes. Is that normal? <In my experience, cloudy for a couple of hours is the norm, not for days.> How do I know what proper water level is? I have been keeping it about an inch above the pump. <You probably want to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.> Would a similar size clown trigger be too much for the tank? <Triggers generally will not tolerate each other in the same tank.> Any suggestions, advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Clueless Steve. <Attempting to have a clue, Steven Pro>

New Tank Woes Mr. Fenner, <Laura...Anthony Calfo here sharing mail duty with Steven Pro while Bob is away> Well, we bought a tank-raised maroon clown (about 1") last Monday along with a feather duster. On Tuesday, we bought a 2 1/2" bicolor blenny. The feather duster lasted about two days before it vacated its tube and died. So, right now there are 5 blue leg hermits, 2 turbo snails, and the two fish in the tank along with about 25 lbs. of live rock. For the time being, we aren't going to add any more fish because of the compatibility issues, but we will probably add some more crabs, shrimp, etc. (probably no more feather dusters, though :). <Relax, friend...what's the hurry? It sounds like you are eager to stock the tank as we all are but that is already too much too fast for a 20 gallon aquarium> My problem is that the clown has been acting really strangely. In the store, he seemed just fine other than being a tad on the slim side, but since we brought him home he has been having difficulty swimming. He stays so close to the top of the tank that his dorsal fin sticks out of the water. Sometimes, he even rolls on his side. He swims around fine when he wants to and he is eating, but he acts like it takes some effort and he always ends up right back at the top of the tank. This problem seems worse at night? <check basic water chemistry first... with such a young aquarium and a quick stock... problems are likely> I'm leaning towards calling it a swim bladder problem since he is acting fine otherwise, but I'm not sure. <unlikely all of the sudden since it looked fine at the LFS. More likely related to the immature system> We've been feeding him ground up Sera SW pellets, brine shrimp plus, and krill. <good foods... consider adding frozen Mysid shrimp and/or Pacifica plankton as well for this planktivore> Any ideas/speculations on what might be wrong with him would be greatly appreciated! As always, thank you for your time and expertise. Laura Rushing <best of luck to you, dear. Anthony>

New Tank Questions Mr. Fenner, <Anthony Calfo in your service while Bob is away> Sorry to keep filling up your inbox :). I'm just not quite sure about my local dealers; they are loathe to admit when they don't know something. <very bad sign...run fast if they can't be trained> Anyways, I just recently e-mailed you about an established 20 long that my fianc?and I are restocking (e-mail was titled Re: Another Question). He has decided to upgrade the lighting over the tank to 2x20 watt 10k "daylight" and 1x20 watt actinic blue fluorescents. This will give us about 3 wpg (well, more than that if you count water displacement from the rock!) on a 12" high tank. We are going to try some of the easier, lower light corals like mushrooms and leathers (do you suggest any others for the beginning reef keeper?). <excellent choices... also, zoanthids, Starpolyps, and yellow colonial anemones> He would like to try an anemone (according to your site, our maroon clown would associate with E. quadricolor), but would the corals and the anemone sting/eat/otherwise torture each other? <great anemone...but never mix anemones and corals. Too many negative reasons... fatality/failure likely in big picture> Do we even have enough light for an E. quadricolor? <perhaps if maintaining good water quality and clarity...change bulbs every 6-10 months, etc> Thank you for your expertise and unique willingness to share, Laura Rushing <very best to you, Anthony>

Doing Homework Steven, Thank you for your prompt response. I have decided to remove the Butterfly and the Mandarin Goby. I am planning on keeping the Coral Beauty as this fish seems to be very healthy and eating frozen food. <That is good to hear. They are a great fish.> I am going to take the others to a fish store that specializes in reef aquariums instead of the store that told me they would do great in my tank. I may lose any refund money, but the fish would be better off there and it's my own fault for not researching the fish properly. <A good but tough lesson to learn.> I have a follow-up question concerning the undergravel filter. With only the Coral Beauty in there, would you remove the U.G. filter? A friend told me that it wouldn't hurt him stirring up all of the gunk and removing the U.G. because he's already living with the waste, etc. Also, is it O.K. to run the Bak Pak w/Bio Bale and the Emperor w/ Bio Wheels or is that overkill? <The U.G., Bak-Pak, Bio-Wheels, and liverock all perform the function of biological filtration, so in a sense they will be competing against one another. If you remove the U.G., leave all of the others on.> Thanks again for your expertise and I will update you in another couple of weeks regarding the health of the tank. - David <Removing an U.G. from an existing tank. Please read through all of the steps to familiarize yourself with the protocol. Day 1: Step 1.)Make up some new saltwater and allow it to aerate and heat to match the existing tank. Make about 25-50% of your tank's volume. In your case 10-20 gallons should be good. Day 2:Beginning the transformation. This will take awhile. Be sure to allot yourself a good part of the day. Hopefully you have a lot of buckets. Step 2.)Turn off all pumps, heaters, etc. in the tank. Do not clean the filters or change cartridges. Step 3.)Siphon off 50% of the clean water in the tank(20 gallons). Do not disturb the gravel or rockwork as you do not wish to vacuum out anything up clean water. Step 4.)Now remove the liverock and decorations. Place these in other buckets. You may wish to cover the buckets containing liverock to minimize evaporation. Step 5.)Capture and transfer your fish into the clean, older water that you siphoned out. Again, covering these buckets is probably a good idea to prevent jumping. Be sure to spread the fish out and if you have it add an air stone to oxygenate the water with fish. Step 6.)Remove the gravel and U.G. filter. This is when you will see why I recommend removing them. U.G.'s by their very nature trap and accumulate a lot of debris. Step 7.)Add aragonite sand to the tank. If this is fish only, keep it thin (about 1"). If you have a reef tank, use enough fine grain aragonite to make the sand bed at least 4-6" deep (~100-150 pounds). Also, I am going to recommend that you start using purified water (RO, DI, etc.) if you are not already doing so. Step 8.)Place and arrange your rockwork. Step 9.)Add the older clean water, but not your fish just yet. Add as much of the older water as possible first. Be sure to pour very slowly, as you do not want to pour straight onto the sand and cause a storm. It will get milky enough on its own with you being careful. Step 10.)See if your Emperor will run now. You might have enough water for it to draw a siphon. If not skip this step for now, but try again later. Step 11.)Add your fish. Step 12.)Top off with the new water from the day before. Step 13.)Get everything running. Day 3 Step 14.)Change cartridges in the Emperor. This will help to remove some of the silt/cloudiness. Good luck, If you have any more questions, please reply. Steven Pro>

Entertained Fish Hi Mr. Fenner, I have my 55 gal. tank set up in my living room. It has already cycled. Tank parameters are: SG = 1.023 ph = 8.0 ammonia = 0.0 nitrite = 0.0 nitrate = somewhere below 10 (not sure, using fastest kit the lowest possible reading on the colored chip is 10 and my water doesn't even to compare to that) I'm planning to add a pair of Percula clowns today. Are they better in pairs or in odd numbers? <Two are almost always ok together. Sometimes with three, a pair develops which then picks on the odd man out.> I occasionally play music and watch DVD's are they and other fish sensitive to loud music and such? <Hopefully, if you can tolerate it and not go deaf, your fish should be OK.> Thanks and have a good weekend!.. <Thank you. -Steven Pro>

Greetings from Istanbul/Turkey Great site and great info, I should have found the site several month ago before setting it up, I may have done certain things differently. But any how, you see you even have a fan from Istanbul:-) <Very nice> Here is my setup and questions, I will appreciate your comments about the overall setup as well. and comments on how to proceed with this setup with corals. I have a 55 gallon aquarium with 20 gallon sump. I setup the aquarium 1 month ago. I have 3 inch aragonite sand, 66 pounds of fully cured (more than 3 month in an aquarium) <Good, best to take ones time at this stage> life rock and 15 pounds of dead coral reef slates to create the base, I do believe they are bacterial wise life by now. I even saw some coralline started to grow. All the rocks are raised from the bottom with acrylic tubes just off the sand. Other than cured life rock I used all different types of commercial bacterial cultures that I could find. I have Aqua Medic Turbo floater 1000 in the sump and 11w UV system. I have 250G/h from sump to the main system. I have no biomedia, no filter media. A sea gel from SeaChem and their copper removal as a precaution in the sump. I have 2 white fan worms, 1 large hard tube beautiful red large worm. 1 Cleaner wrasse, 1 purple tang (just about 50c coin size), <Small... tiny by comparison with the ones we get in the West... but hardy, common out of Arabia for your part of the world> 1 Regal tang (about quarter size), 1 purple Dottyback, 1 red local Mediterranean nocturnal anemone and also 2 red Mediterranean starfish . I have money plants thriving and having new leaves (Unfortunately cannot cash them :-)) each day, I also just put feather Caulerpa. Water parameters are perfect. I used 100% RO water for start up and to up. I used HW-Marine mix sea salt. <Sounds great> This is my first salt water experience so far so good but I appreciate your comments on the setup. Specific Questions I have 4 Maxijet 1000 s in the aquarium to create the wave action, I cannot find wave maker in Turkey so I use 4 timers. They switch on and off every 15 minutes randomly. One thing I noticed during my diving trips etc. The sea is much calmer during the night. Should I make such that the aquarium is less turbulent during the night? <Ah, a good observation... likely the amount of turbulence your powerheads create is no problem... much less water movement than in the wild, as you know> I also have another thinking, if I switch off the pump from sump to the aquarium with timer, lets say for 1 hour/day, the 20 gallon water in the sump will go through the skimmer and U.V several times and I will have a very clean water. this should help my water quality. Any comments on this theory? <Not likely worthwhile... as the rest of the water in the main system will be "dirtier"... I would leave all running continuously> Would I be doing something good or bad? If I should do it is it better during the night or day? <If you'd like, you can experiment here... but the benefits of continuous operation negate switching off/on...> Thanks in advance to all answers. <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

New Tank Hello Mr. Fenner, Thank you again for such a rapid response to my previous e-mail, I admire your dedication to your constant help to us "novices". I have what I bet is a silly question for you....My tank is now in it's 4th week and water quality has remained constant... Specific Gravity: 1.022 Temperature: 78.3 pH: 8.2 My half-black angelfish has yet to respond to medication and I am starting to think it is "ICH" instead of what I was told by a local pet store staff member. I do not currently have any live rock/corals, all the decor is dead coral but I do plan on getting some inverts soon so I take it copper is NOT a good idea? <Not in and with the invertebrates, no> He constantly swims facing upwards with the film covering one eye and flaky white stuff covering his face. <Not good signs> Also, here is the silly question... How am I to tell when my tank has fully cycled? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm and the FAQs beyond> I do not see any algae growing at all, should I? <Likely so> I plan on purchasing a few scarlet legged hermit crabs to help with the cleansing of the tank, is it too early? <Please read the marine set-up sections on WWM... you don't know what you need to know to ask at this point... the materials archived on the site presume nothing> Thank you again for your expertise, it has been a major help to me thus far :) Regards, Derrick S. <Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Re: Starting a new system Mr. Fenner, Thank you for such a quick reply! I am glad you could understand the drawing I sent to you. It was my first time drawing up a diagram so I wasn't to confidant about how it would be interpreted. <Wish I were this skilled...> I am glad that everything looks like it will work well. I did a lot of reading and research about how my design should go. Now on to the hard stuff. How to go about plumbing it. I have read through you FAQ 1 & 2 about plumbing systems this afternoon. I am still at a loss when it comes to understanding flow rates and what size pvc pipes I will need. <Bigger is better...> I am off to do much more reading and planning. :) Would you mind reading and looking over my diagram & plains when I decide on pumps and plumbing? <No worries... and do check out "Oz' Reef": http://www.ozreef.org/ for great DIY input> I hope so. <crossing fingers> Thank you again for the thumbs up! Josh <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

my school project Hello, my name is Trevor Harres. I am in 5th grade. I am doing a project at school where I need to spend a million dollars buying something. <A challenge to your creativity and prudence> We're not really spending money it's just pretend. I decided to use my money building an aquarium for bat rays where people could pet and feed them and another one for star fish and other animals like sea urchins that can be picked up and handled by people. I was hoping you could send me any kind of information you might have on the cost of what it might be to do this. Feeding and keeping the fish alive also has to be included. I can't go over a million dollars though. If you can find some time I would be very appreciative. You can check my information by calling my school if you like. Richmond Street Elementary School. Thank you, Trevor Harres <Mmm, I would make a list of the "Steps to Completion" of such a project... including design, construction, livestocking... AND a "spread sheet" (sort of like a calendar by months of the year with spaces for listing items of expense) for detailing what things (labor, electricity, water, rent, taxes...) cost every month (estimated by the projected cost of the facility and cost per customer visiting). The design and building part of the project can be worked on using the "Pond Index" part of our site: see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ponds.htm Some input into speculating about the finance parts of your project can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bizfin.htm Do contact me with your concerns, questions, suggestions as you progress. Bob Fenner>

Chemical comp. Hello Robert, Just a quick question about the chemical composition of my tank. I've read that the ocean naturally has 'O' (zero) nitrates and nitrites 99.9 % of the time, <Okay... what is, does occur is "scavenged" very readily, quickly in most situations... do take a read at last months (think December ish) of Natural History magazine or other treatise on nitrogen fixation. The Haber process... still feeds about half the humans on this planet...> and that the environment is very stable. <Deceptive... not really that "stable" the closer you look> I would love to mimic this, (dreaming yes!) but my nitrates are always close to 40ppm. Nitrites are always zero, and the Ph always runs low between 7.4 and 7.8. <Yikes... we should chat this up...> I feel that my system is very basic compare to most of your readers out there. Fifty five gallons, 60 lbs. LR, 50 lbs crushed coral for the substrate, 6 power heads, skilter, <Do look into a better skimmer> and a large outside power filter just to keep the flow going. I don't have a sump, I'm not even sure what the heck it is, or if it is really needed, is it? <Please read the marine set-up section through on WWM... there's quite a bit: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marindind2.htm> Anyways, I just want my very few inhabitants to be comfortable, oh, I forgot to say that the salinity is also running low. I just can't seem to get it up to speed! I is currently 1.021 . I'm a bit nervous about how much to add at one time. <The issue of specific gravity, making saltwater, water changes are all addressed on WWM> Ahh, one MORE thing, I use RO water only, and what a pain it is! Does anyone else share this with me? Hook the unit up, take it off, hook it up, take it off!!!!!! This hobby has got to get easier! <If your water is "this bad" look into a permanent R.O. install, with reservoir tank.> Thanks in advance Robert for your knowledge! Pam PS. Not such a " quick question ", hmmm? <No worries. Bob Fenner>

Beginner marine I have kept fresh water fish for several years, and am now ready (I think) to try my hand at saltwater. <Then you are> I have searched the web and learned a lot. By the way your site is by far the most informative I have found. And I can't believe the amount of personal help you are able to give. <An ambition of mine> I have lots of questions. I am going to set up a 55 gal standard tank, with a reef type setup as my long term goal. I was hoping you could make some suggestions as to filters, skimmers, substrate (IE: live sand, plenum, UG filter) live rock, other livestock. <Ahh! Much of all this is posted on WetWebMedia.com Use the Marine Index (on the homepage) to the Sub-Index to read through all the Set-Up sections including the FAQs> I have nothing but an empty tank right now and am in no big hurry. I would be a lot more confident knowing that I have invested in the kind of stuff that experienced aquarists would also invest in. <Also, do avail yourself of the Search tool to review the many FAQs posted and the excellent first hand experiences of our many friends on the Chatforum: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/ for recent, first-hand experience about particular gear, suppliers. Bob Fenner>

Help - I am lost (marine set-up) Hi there -thanks for a great book and web site. I am experienced w/ FW and researching the jump to a reef tank with mostly inverts and just a FEW fish as the "centerpiece" of my entry hall. I have room for 55 gal. Can I really achieve the results I see in pictures (esp. the ones @ GARF site) without having a marine ecology PhD? <Definitely no... I have many "educated derelict" friends who couldn't keep an organism alive... All one needs is a rudimentary understanding of principles, discipline to put together a simple plan, execute against this, and regular maintenance... Your writing "style" belies your inherent capacity.> Am I nuts? <Can't tell from here... perhaps> I am SOOO lost in the depths of books and the web that I don't know what to do next. Thanks for your work and help - Nita in Ithaca (thankfully NOT Buffalo), NY <Ah, yes... Take this enterprise the proverbial "step at a time"... put a list of your desired gear together... with alternates... keep reading, talking with others (our chatforum: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/). You will soon reveal your path. Enjoy this intermittent state. Bob Fenner>

Bernd in Honduras and his continuing marine aquarium odyssey A Happy New Year, Bob. From us Hondurans. I am very happy with Your books, The conscientious ..., and The Fish guide. Thanks for the personal note.! <Ah! Hope you have been enjoying them> I have scrolled through both of them. One question: Are You going to write a separate book about fish of the Pacific and Indian Ocean? <Yes, I hope to... have been writing "pieces" on these areas livestock for years... these run variously in Freshwater and Marine Aquarium mainly (in the U.S.), but also in Deutschen in das Aquarium in Germany...> I missed those locations in the fish guide. <Many of these areas, groups are covered... and placed as they run as serials in hobby 'zines... on WWM> My tank is doing fine, except for the growing of brown diatom algae and Cyanobacteria. I have a very high silica content in my tap water. That causes the brown stuff to grow. My son brought Phosgate to help me there. Maybe I can reduce the silica and phosphate in the future. <Yes... best with a water treatment tool like reverse osmosis... but also able to be reduced by growing live macro-algae in part of your system and/or a sump> I have right now : 1 blue tang, 2 ocellaris clowns and 2 yellow tail damsels (c. parasema) in my tank. Also 1 boxer shrimp, 3 feather dusters, 1 live rock, some tiny hermit crabs and 1 Atlantic pink tip anemone. All are doing fine so far. I want to add next (maybe end of January, depending if my LFS can supply them) 1 royal gramma, 1 bicolor blenny, 1 flame hawk and 1 fires fish goby. Later 1 yellow tank, 1 flame angel and 2 banner fish. With that my tank should be maxed out (110 gal with 82 gal actual water) Anyway, I know I might not get what I want in the first place, and not in the order I want it. But that makes living here so interesting. <You have a good outlook. Your charitable nature serves you well> My friends from the Island have promised me to bring me more live rock and macro algae since the first one died. What do you think of adding 2 Banggai cardinal fish? <Should be fine> Attached a picture of me and my family so You can recognize me when you meet me under water! Good diving, Bernd <Ahh, be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Lighting for my new tank Hi Bob, Love your books! <Ah, glad to read they are of service> I am about to buy a 120 Gallon (48x24x24) reef ready oceanic system. I would love your opinion on my setup (I intend to stock it with corals and a few fish): Lighting: CSL 2x250MH/2x65PC (Actinic) Pump: Velocity T-4 Chiller: 1/3 hp CSL Skimmer: Red Sea Berlin <All very nice, applicable gear> I also couldn't decide whether or not to go with the glass tops (may get too hot w/o the chiller) or get the glass tops and the chiller. <You likely will need the chiller with these lights... but could try it all out during the cool months of the year... and add later> Only thing is the chiller is SOOOOO expensive. I am also going to buy a stand and cap. Got a great deal, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. <Best to investigate, dream, shop first> Thanks for your advice!!! Jeremy <Looking forward to your adventure. Bob Fenner>

New on the hobby Hi: I received a 55 gallon tank as a present and want to make it as a salt water aquarium. I was in a hurry to start, so went to the beach got some sand and rocks, fill the tank about 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Got my salt and water mixture, fill the tank and started my skimmer filter. I have not added any live stock yet and not planning to do so for about 4 to 6 weeks. Do I need any extra equipment ? <Maybe... do you have a skimmer?> If I let stand the sand with the filter system on for that long the tank will be ready for its occupants? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm re cycling, testing...> I had fresh water tanks before but as you figure this is my first experience with salt water. I am planning to catch the animals my self. Please need to have all the advise you can provide me. <We have much to discuss. For now, please read over the Marine Set-Up sections on WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Thanks, Jose, Puerto Rico

Re: new setup JasonC or Bob (if you're back from diving): <<JasonC here, Bob is indeed back but I thought I'd help out over the holidays.>> My tank cycled and I added a maroon clown fish. It died w/n about 12 hours. come to find out my Rena Filstar XP1 was clogged up pretty good. (assuming dissolved oxygen levels were too low) Some of the pre-filters and carbon needed to be switched. I replaced and/or rinsed everything except for the bio-ceramic rings of course! :) <<ok>> I now have a yellow-tail blue damsel doing quite well but I've noticed a slight ever increasing level of nitrites. <<this is quite normal>> ammonia seems to be fine. <<you mean there isn't any, right?>> I still have my skimmer turned off as the tank JUST cycled and I was going to wait until it was really stocked. <> Should I execute a water change? <<this will also help - should begin the "regular maintenance" cycle of some percentage water change every week or two.>> or did some of my bacteria levels decrease with the washing of some filter media and it will just take time? <<doubt the bacteria dropped an appreciable amount.>> Am I wise for waiting on the skimmer or should I fire it up full time or part time? <<wise for waiting up to this point - the time has come to fire this puppy up.>> (the tank has cycled but it's still VERY new) <<no worries>> Do they make simple dissolved oxygen tests or are they expensive electrical equipment? <<There is/are the ORP [Oxidation/Reduction Potential] monitor which is not grossly expensive.>> I've been thinking about going to the Rena XP2, it seems like the water flow is really low on this thing even after cleaning filter media and cleaning hoses, checking impeller, everything they recommend. <<more flow is always good.>> Appreciate the help! <<My pleasure. Cheers, J -- >>

Right Equipment? Hi Bob, I recently received a gift from a friend, a 75 gallon tank and some accessories. <A very nice present!> When he purchased everything he was thinking about a freshwater tank. I am thinking about converting it to a reef aquarium. The gift included two (2) emperor 400 bio-wheels, two (2) Rio Aqua Pump/Powerhead 600 and one air pump (up to 85 gallon) and a PowerCompact SmartLite Strip Light (48" 2- 65 watt) for lighting. I am completely new to saltwater aquariums. What extra gear will I need to run the mostly fish reef. Thanks for your help. Guillermo <Much to relate my friend. Do us both a service, and read over the marine Set-Up sections posted on our site: WetWebMedia.com, making a checklist of what you consider your necessities, choices... we'll chat further. Bob Fenner>

135gal FOWLR setup I have had a 29gal freshwater tank for many years and always wanted to try a marine tank but in a larger tank than what I had. I stumbled across a GREAT deal ($30 at goodwill) on a 135gal all-glass tank with a Magnum 350 canister filter w/ dual bio wheels as well as a undergravel filter, a couple of 36" basic FL lights and glass covers. <Pennies per pound!> I am looking for the best way to utilize what I have and get a solid FOWLR marine system setup. I have been doing a lot of research on the what's out there and would like your opinion. I have read thru -most- of your website and FAQ's but I still need a little reassurance and guidance on the many options I have come across. <Okay> I don't plan on having a massive load of fish. In fact, I kind of like the bottom dwellers like crabs, shrimp and snails but I will want some colorful/interesting fish as well. Money IS an issue so I need to keep this as simple and painless as possible. <Understood> I have decided that I will need approx. 120-150lbs of live rock, a protein skimmer, a couple of heaters as well as some powerheads for circulation. However, nothing is set in stone yet. In fact, I am still finishing my stand so literally nothing is set yet beside the size of the tank. <Okay> I am not sure if I should use my undergravel filter setup (possibly reverse flow) or just leave it out. I have also heard I might want to set it up under the substrate as a plenum without any circulation. <You could try the U/G in place now... change later if you want> On the live rock, can I save money and use 1/2 live rock and 1/2 non-live rock. That is assuming that the "life" will spread to the non-live rock over time -if so, how long will this take? <Yes, can. Several months> I am leaning towards getting two Won Pro-heat 200W heaters. Their ad suggests that their brand requires less wattage per gallon due to the design & technology. Does this sound reasonable or is it just a sales pitch? <Reasonable enough> Will the Magnum 350 be enough (with the live rock) filtration for this big of a tank? If I need more filtration would a sump beneath my system to be the best (i.e. most cost effective) way to go? Could I get started with what I have and, if need be, add more later? I'm sure I will always be adding but I'm talking short-term. <Can work out fine in the shorter term... months... a sump-type arrangement would/will be better> What would be the best protein skimmer for this size tank? I am leaning towards a Berlin Turbo but don't know if it will handle a 135gal tank. Do I need the skimmer when I get the rock or just after I add livestock? <The Berlin product would be fine. Need it from the get-go, addition of the live rock> Thanks for your help. I'm sure I will be asking you a lot of questions but I am trying to look at your FAQs before I ask to avoid the really stupid or at least repetitive ones. Sincerely, Sandy McNutt <No worries. It is obvious you have been diligent in your studying. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Bunches of questions (marine set-up) Bob, A few questions from a novice hoping to be more educated. I have a 38 gallon (I know, small size, that's the reason for these questions), 184W of PC lighting, hang-on protein skimmer, and activated carbon in a hang on filter. It's FOWLR that I would like make reef with a few fish. Currently 40 lbs. of live rock, five 1" damsels and one adult convict blenny about 11" long who likes to redecorate the 2" crushed coral (CaribSea) substrate into little mountains. Is this too much substrate? <Not IMO> I would like to get a few sand sifters (stars, blennies, ...). Is the crushed coral size too large? <Are you going to keep the Convict Blenny? If so, I would leave off with these additions> Should I use the sand instead? <If you are switching, trading out the Convict Blenny for the others, yes> Water parameters: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5-10, phosphate about 10 using Salifert test kits. <Yowzah, this is high! I would check with other kit/s> Nitrates and phosphate too high, so I want to add a sump with macro algae and plenum, but can't drill into my current 38 gallon. I want to purchase one of the CPR overflows but am confused as to what size to get. <Good> I don't completely understand how they work. <Simple in operation... but like mathematical expressions of other seemingly simple phenomena (siphons, Coriolis Force, Effects...) hard to discern> Is it possible for the overflow to suck out water from the tank faster than the water returning from the sump? Or will the overflow only suck out as much water as is returned from the sump? <Only the latter... minus a bit of "transit volume"... the water "piling up" in the tank (from being pumped up from the sump)" takes a while" to make its way back down the constant level box> If it acts anything like the siphon I get when doing water changes, that's A LOT of water getting sucked out of the tank. <Has an "air breaker"... so siphon, actually overflow part of the contraption cannot drain tank...> Also, I can't remember how much flow is supposed to go through the sump, could you remind me? <Depends on design, functional characteristics, but likely a few to several times an hour in your case. Ten times is not too many> A quick question on lighting. I currently have two of the 92W PC Smartlamps installed, each are 1/2 10K and 1/2 blue. Since there are two bulbs, it equals 92W 10K and 92W blue. Do you think it would be worthwhile to change one Smartlamp for a blue to help corals once I get them? <Hmm, actually, it's advisable to switch out one of the actinics for another "white"> That would make 46W of 10K and 138W of blue. Thanks a ton in advance, and sorry for the long email. Happy Holidays, Dan <A pleasure my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Tips for the beginner Hello there. Just starting out in the hobby. Had a freshwater tank for a few years before. Bought a house from a friend and he had a 55 gallon 48" X 13" X 20" saltwater tank that was set up for at least 4 years. Fish only with live rock. I would like to start a reef system. I don't mean right now, but down the line maybe 6 months. The tank was untouched (literally) for at least a year. By way of some kind of miracle the one fish that was left, a clown fish, is still alive. I was ready to tear the tank down and start with fresh water when a friend told me that I had good clear water, although it had evaporated to about half the tank, and live rock with a good purple color and that I might be able to turn the tank around. So here I am a little more than a week into it. In that time I have cleaned of all of the algae, done a few major water changes, replaced the old gravel with crushed coral and added about 32 pounds of new live rock. Right now waiting for the tank to finish it's cycle. Can't believe the fish has made it this far. <Contrary to popular notions, marines are tough> Anyway I have a older Fluval 203 canister filter (110 gph) that is working great. I completely cleaned it and replaced the everything inside except the pellets in the bottom. I have a Biowheel filter on the way that filters 400 gph that I plan to use in addition. I know that I need to wait for the tank to cycle before adding any new fish as well as maintain them for a few months and learn how to keep a saltwater tank before I move into "reef keeping". Sorry for the long build up I just wanted you to want what was going on. And finally the questions. I plan on getting one powerhead to place in one corner and also there will be the return from the Fluval. First is one enough and what size powerhead? <Look for two of good size... Hagen and Aquarium System's are superlative. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarfaqs.htm and the links beyond> Do I need to take into consideration the circulation rate of the powerhead since I will already be turning the tank over 10 times with the filtration? <Yes... more water movement is better> And next is lighting. I know I don't need MH lights but I love the reflective look so I think I am going to go that way. I don't want to "get by" and I am not looking to spend a grand. I have looked around on the web a lot as to what is available. I like the idea of two MH lights with two fluorescent lights. What would you recommend as far as wattage and K values. <Please read through the numerous articles, FAQs sections on WetWebMedia.com re marine lighting, fixturization> I would like to be able to support almost anything (eventually). Again, sorry about the length of the e-mail. Looking forward to your response. Tony Busekrus <Thank you for writing, and no worries re the length of messages. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Brown stuff Hi Bob I had a question about the water quality in my tank. It seems after a water change has been done, a brown film forms on the surface after a few days. I don't have allot of agitation on the surface and I do have a skim box (Eco Sys). The water parameters are great 0 ammonia 0 nitrite ph 8.2 nitrite 20. Is there a filter of some kind that is powerful enough to skim the surface of the water? <A not-uncommon problem with mud filtration... surface agitation would help, as would surface water removal (a dipped pitcher) or draping a non-scented white paper towel across the surface. My fave surface skimmer accessory is made by/for Eheim's canister filters: http://www.eheim.com/ Bob Fenner>

help!!!!!! (Mmm, marine substrate re-use) Hi Bob, my name is Jos?Luis, I'm from Mexico and I only have one question, look, I'm going to set up a 20 gal marine aquarium, I have everything: filter, protein skimmer, power head and the salt, but I have coral sand that I used about 5 years ago in other aquarium. In that time I medicated the aquarium and I had to finish my aquarium because my fish didn't survive, I washed the coral and then I put it in a box , now I was wondering, can I use this coral sand for my new aquarium? What happens when coral sand is medicated? Thanks <Good question... likely any/all types of "fish medicines" (metal dyes, antibiotics, antimicrobials...) have long since "changed", otherwise become insoluble (under aquarium conditions) to restitution... If you have concerns, I might "acid/bleach wash" the old/used substrate such as this protocol: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnornart.htm Otherwise I would rinse it in freshwater, place it, test for... copper (? if this is what was used five years ago)... and if needed, add more substrate, above, mixed in with it... and run some activated carbon and/or PolyFilter media in your filter/s during your "run-in" phase of set-up. Please read through the marine set-up, small marine systems parts of WetWebMedia.com and get back to me if there is something unclear, incomplete. Nos vemos, Bob Fenner>


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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