Set up/BiOrb Marine Tank  - 01/23/2006
Hello there. <Hello Sharon>
I have been offered a 60 litre BiOrb marine tank. It contains dead, but real coral, replica living rock, 2 clown fish, 1 neon goby, 1 dancing shrimp, 1 cleaner shrimp and 5 red/blue legged crabs. It has an integral filter unit, upgraded filter pump, upgraded light unit, extra pump with airstone, mini internal filter which provides extra water circulation and purification, heater/thermostat and thermometer It has been  set up and running for approx 10 months. I have never kept marine fish but would love to give it a go, and was wondering if you could give any advice at all with regards to this. <Sharon, we can get our feet wet by starting here.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm  I can't relate to the BiOrb system as I'm not familiar with it, but it sounds like a workable system.>
Many thanks <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Sharon Bailey
United Kingdom

Starting a aquarium
Hello, My name is Mike and I am thinking about starting a salt water reef tank.
<Hello Mike, welcome to this facet of the aquarium hobby>
I was wondering how much it would be to start a 29 gallon reef tank.
<A few to several hundred dollars>
(i.e. lights protein skimmer, heater, and so on) If you could please help me out that would be greatly appreciated. And if there was a store that sold
tank stands for a fairly good price. Like for a 29 gallon tank. Thanks again
Mike Cooper
<You might do well to consider making your own stand... there is a great DIY site, Oz' Reef... and much more to learn, enjoy by perusing our site: www.WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>

New Saltwater Tank
Hi Bob!
This is the first time I write to you, I'm from Guatemala city and I had a few questions:
1.- Is an 8 gallon glass-tank O.K. for a saltwater aquarium? If so, Fish only, reef only or both?
<Small volumes are hard to maintain, keep steady... but it may sound contrary... reef type ones are easier than non-reef... just a few small fish though>
2.- Is a protein skimmer obligatory?
<No... helps in many, most systems... but a stable, live rock system has no need/use of one>
3.- which are the most easy-to-maintain invertebrates an corals for an 8 gallon reef aquarium ?
<Please see the review of the various groups posted on www.WetWebMedia.com: listed here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarInd5of6.htm>
4.- do I have to Have a sump?
<No... about same answer as #2.>
5.- Is a chiller necessary?
<Hopefully not... if the system can be situated where there is little diurnal fluctuation in temperature... I would leave off having one... very hard to set, rely on such a small system>
Thanks for your time and good-bye, Jose Pablo
<Nos vemos my friend. Bob Fenner>

Frustrated. . . help??
I'm a very recent addition to your WetWebMedia site. It's so helpful and
entertaining however, very overwhelming. My husband and I are very new to this hobby and the more I read the more I realize that we know nothing about this hobby! We have a beautiful 100 gal aquarium and it currently has a rainbow wrasse, two yellow tangs, a Naso tang, a maroon clown, and a snowflake eel (also one horseshoe crab).
<Quite a mix>
We have a protein skimmer but have not started it yet because we heard the tank needed to be up and running for six months. We are nearing the time to start it though.
<Do start this device up now>
We just purchased a 25watt UV Sterilizer and I have been reading conflicting reports. Most people in the chat rooms say only use it on the QT. WE DON'T EVEN HAVE A QT. That's our first mistake. I know now that we must have one. True, right? 
<Not absolutely... but helpful as such, as well as an auxiliary tank>
If so, could you help me with information on how one should be set up as far as size, filtration, rock/sand, etc?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm>
I would really appreciate any help you can give. Sorry to bother you. . .
this is a hard hobby!!!!! 
<Never a bother... and... everything is difficult at first... You have strength of character and persistence... and a discerning mind... as evidenced by what I read here... soon what now appears hard will be facile>
BUT, I'm loving it. I just am getting so attached to my fish that I want to do the best job possible to keep them around for YEARS! Thanks again! :)
P.S. Is it safe to add one fish per month or is that going to fast? Also,
how many inches of fish can we safely have in our 100 gal. tank?
<Ah... related questions. It is possible, a good "rate" to add livestock at about a month interval... you do have a good start on a "tankful" of one hundred gallons. Bob Fenner>
Elizabeth K. Birdwell

Incompatible inhabitants / powerheads
Hi Mr. Fenner,
Thank you for your nearly immediate reply to my last question (regarding pests). I've spent hours on the web looking for help and I have concluded that your advice is the most thorough and valuable. Thank you.
<Thank you... after trying to render such input for many years... I am getting better~!>
I am new to reefs and consequently rely heavily on the advice of local dealers.
<Rely ultimately only on yourself my friend>
My question regards incompatible inhabitants. I have a 55 gal tank with two starter damsels and now a pair of very small clowns. Before you advised me to relax about the bristle worms and the glass anemone, I had already introduced an arrow crab and a peppermint shrimp to control them. I also have a few pieces of hard coral now, a few turban snails, a brittle star, small hermit crabs, mushroom coral, and a star polyp.
Last night I observed discrete tiny white spots on  the clowns and concluded they were "white spot disease". I was all prepared to start a treatment tank today but noticed the spots were gone. (Am I right to
conclude that these were not parasites?)
<Probably were/are parasites... and their/your host fish/es are vacillating between health and disease... a matter of ongoing balance, not just yes/no...>
I began to wonder if these were in fact temporary marks from the tank mate's aggression and started surfing the web. It appears that the arrow crab (per my reading) is particularly unsafe. Is that true? 
<Yes... eventually it will likely consume all the animals you list>
Is the peppermint shrimp OK to have?
<Okay? Sure...>
Are the turban snails safe for the coral? (I have to keep pulling them off the polyp).
<...>
I'll remove any critter you advise me to remove (and add any you suggest)
<You should invest your time, money into buying, reading over complete "reef aquarium works"...>
...Also, I am in the process of buying 2 new heaters and a pump/powerhead. I want to graduate to a 200 gal tank in the future but for now will just use it for return from my sump tank. Can you recommend a website that reviews products? Any personal opinions? Is there a consensus regarding which are the top brands? Rio?, Eheim?, Rainbow? etc.
<No absolute consensus, and no "aquarium products reviewed fairly and completely" site... My advice re is to consort with actual users... i.e. fellow aquarists. Done easily on the WWW. Here's my fave/our chatforum: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/
Go there, ask them. Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much.

Starting out
Hi Bob,
My husband and I are interested in setting up a reef/fish tank. We are new to this and although we have been reading a lot, it seems hard to make decisions as there are so many opinions out there.
<Important to understand underlying principles... learn enough, and make ones own decisions>
(this is for 180 gallon) We are going to put in (all at once) 180 lbs of live rock and 3 inches or aragonite. This is what the LFS says that we should go with. 36x18x20 trickle filter packed
<Am not a big fan of trickle/wet-dry filters... most turn into expensive sumps... Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wetdryfaqs.htm>
300 watt heater
<I'd get another heater, place one at either end of tank>
turbo floater 1000 protein skimmer
4MDQXSC little giant pump
<Mmm, I would check on bulletin boards, chatrooms (ours: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/) for input from actual users... there are better pumps IMO/E>
aerator booster and powerhead for skimmer
<Aerator booster? As in a an air-pump arrangement... not necessary for Turboflotor skimmer>
UV sterilizer
<Not likely necessary... if trying to save money for other gear, I'd skip>
1200 power head
<At least two... if this is to be a reef with many hard, soft corals, I'd have four...>
for lighting 4- 160 what VHO unit with icecap electronic ballast, 4 72" VHO 160 watt bulbs, metal reflector, wiring harness, end caps etc. will achieve 3.5 watts per gal. he says we can upgrade to add 503.16 VHO to 6 lamp achieving wattage goal of 5.3 watts per gal. I don't like the idea of upgrading, I'd rather buy it the first time around.
<Me too. Would research the likelihood of wanting such lighting per the types of livestock, what you hope to achieve with them...>
Could you tell me what you think of this package? If you were to change it.. to what and why? Thank you very much, Lynn McKinney
<I've posted my comments up next to the items... do ask the same on WWF. Bob Fenner>

Starting 90 or 125 saltwater
Hello, before I start I would just like to thank you for your dedication to answering to so many people. It really helps the newbies (like me).
<Very gratifying>
I have kept a 20 gallon freshwater tank for years, and I now want to start a saltwater 90 or 125 gallon. I currently have an emperor bio-wheel filter, a 300W submersible heater, and a AquaC remora skimmer, I know I should have at least gone with the pro, but I got the remora for $100, and I thought it was better than the Seaclone.
<A good buy and it should be fine>
Luckily, my other hobby is hydroponics so I have (4) 400W Metal Halides and (1) 400W High Pressure Sodium at my disposal. I haven't seen anyone talking about using HPS so I guess ill just use an MH or two.
<Good idea... HPS are lacking needed wavelengths...>
As far as livestock goes, I was thinking of starting with a few maroon or false clowns, yellow and/or hippo tang, and perhaps an angel fish or two. I was going to get a bubble for the clowns but perhaps I shouldn't go all out on my first run.
<You are wise here>
So finally my question, do you have any recommendations as to what I should do differently equipment-wise, or any suggestions at all? Money
unfortunately is an issue because I'm only a 10th grader at high school. It looks like I will be getting live rock/sand to aid in the filtration.
<I would grade into both the live rock and sand with "base" material and just a smattering of live matter... the rest will become live in time... and save you a good deal of money. Your gear sounds fine. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Matt

Re: Triggers... and many other things
JasonC,
<Yikes... will have to cc that bad boy! This is Bob F>
Thanks for the tips. I wanted to give you an update. I took your advice and sadly traded my Trigger. I bought a watchman goby and a funky colored goby for some bottom activity. The beta is once again free to roam and the puffer is healing.
<Much better>
I hope you don't mind but I have just a couple more questions. This is my first marine tank. The porcupine puffer seems to be healing slowly but still very active and healthy. You can see where his brown skin has been removed and the secondary whitish skin is showing. Do you recommend a medication or just let nature take its course?
<The latter. This specimen will very likely be fine, heal completely>
I am very good at maintaining water quality but my inexperience shows when I buy. I've had to do this trade thing before; orange grouper that was a swimming maniac. I want one more fish. I like unique personalities. For instance, the trigger's feeding rituals or how they rearrange the tank, the puffers swimming style, Any recommendations on a hardy fish that has unique habits?
<Please read over the www.WetWebMedia.com's many survey articles, FAQs on livestock>
Is a VERY small trigger possible with gobies and the others or will they just grow fast and become a problem?
<Almost always the latter... out competing, eating all foods, harassment... eating.>
Should I have at least one algae eating fish to balance out the system?
<Please see the WWM site>
Should I stay away from angels? They seem finicky.
<Ditto>
What is your position on carbon? What brand and type would you recommend? If I use carbon should I add trace elements?
<Please use the Google search feature on the WWM site...>
AND FINALLY. I am attempting to run this tank WITHOUT a protein skimmer or UV sterilizer. The water and fish look good. I'll treat for diseases as they come. Do you see a problem?
<Please see the articles on physical filtration for marine systems on...>
Is their a BIG change in the amount of algae scraping you need to do if you were running a protein skimmer?
<Yes>
Thanks again for the time. Regards, Bob
<Be reading, studying, enjoying my friend. Bob Fenner>

RE: New tank setting it up
Thank you for the immediate response. After absorbing a lot of the information from the net and talking to the local employees at my LFS, I still have a lot of questions. Most of them though can be answered by doing research. What kind of substrate would you recommend?
<Posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm >
I have three options: aragonite, salt water gravel, or sand from the beach. The aragonite comes in different types marked 1, 2, 3 (1-very fine to 3-chunky) I was informed at my LFS that it is legal to get sand from the
beach at a rate of 1 gallon per day (don't ask me why, that's the law)
<What nonsense... the government treating citizens like children>
and to wash them until the smell is gone before putting them in the tank.
Should I mix them or go with just one type? FYI, I am not going to use a
UGF.
<Posted on the WWM site>
Another issue of mine is when to fire up the Bak pak2. Should I let it rip
along with the power filter or wait until the tank has cycled? 
<Please see the Set Up sections on the Marine Index: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marindind2.htm >
I have read conflicting articles about this topic. (and to top that off, I am still debating whether to get the Bak pak2 or Bak pak2R since my rocks will eventually become LR?, or maybe the DSB + power filter can handle the bio filtration?, and the issue of removing the bio bale after 2-4 months, I think its a waste)
<I would definitely get, use a skimmer>
Thank you very much in advance Mr. Fenner. Robert
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

New tank setting it up
I am really serious about getting into the hobby. I had a freshwater with Oscars for years when I was in school and now after a period of having no
aquariums, I want to get into it again, this time with a marine tank.
<A worthy challenge, project>
So I got this 55 gal. tank and that's about it for now. I am still waiting for my book from Amazon which should be arriving any day now.
Since I cannot get live rock and live sand for my tank (illegal in Hawaii) I am thinking about installing a power filter (for bio filtration) and a protein skimmer.
<Good>
For the substrate, either aragonite or saltwater sand from my LFS. Around 3in. thick or so. Is this considered a DSB?
<By some... others would say "make it deeper"... for a 55 this three inches will look, work fine>
I intend to stock the tank with one snowflake and one marine Betta to start with and may or may not add more later.
<Good idea to start slowly>
What do you think about combining a Millennium 3000 with a Bak PaK2? I thought about adding the mill. 3000 as a bio filter substitute for live rock.
<Good choices IMO for outside/HOB filtration>
A lot of people around the net suggests users take out the bio bale media from the Bak pak2, would it be bad if I left it in? Or should I opt for the
Bak pak2R model or for a different skimmer altogether?
<I would take it out, but not immediately. Leave in place for the first few months (2,3,4). After tank is well-cycled, you will find this plastic media getting more clogged, less-needed likely. 
Oh, and do read through the "Fishwatcher's Guide..." to Hawai'i, posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hifwgv1.htm
and the links posted about... 
Bob Fenner>
Robert

Marine Set-up
Hi Mr. Fenner,
I wrote you at the beginning of the week, but I'm not sure it went through. Couple of very quick questions, but first I want to thank you for your advice; I asked you earlier about a toss up between a Red Sea Berlin XL, and an air driven MTC model skimmer, and I'm taking your advice, and ordered the Red Sea model. Quick questions now. The skimmer will have it's intake, and return in my sump, in the basement. When I feed my fish, I turn off the main filter system so that the food doesn't get sucked away before they have a chance to eat any. Should I also turn off the skimmer, and if so will every time it starts up again, cause a problem for it to start the skimming process again?
<I would put all on a "master switch" and shut the skimmer off at the same time... for fear that the change in water level in your sump might cause a flooding incident there... No "re-starting" problem>
Or should I just leave it on, since the intake, and return will be in the same sump, it will just recirculate the water that is there at the moment, so that it
will stay stable as far as the water level in my sump goes.
<If you intend to leave the skimmer on, do check for what happens when the re-circulation pump for the basement gear shuts off...>
I just bought a Pinpoint PH monitor, is it o.k. to leave it on all the time?
<Yes>
It is plugged in, not on a battery, and the place I bought it says I should also put a ground probe in the sump because of the probe, or monitor giving off current. Is this true, or are they just trying to sell me something else?
<It's a good safeguard measure>
Last question, and also a observation. Do you know of any link, or URL that I could go to that will help me identify all the mysterious little critters that are starting to pop up in my refugium that has been set-up now for around a month. 
<Yes... there is a link to this on WWM's Links Page... and in the bibliography of many of the Invert. pieces there>
It has Caulerpa and Miracle Mud as the filter system, and to be honest, it is just as intriguing to watch the refugium, as it is the main tank because of the
diverse, and exotic critters that are coming alive there. I would like to know what all these little guys are though. Anxious to hear back from you soon.
Greg N.
<Perhaps look into an inexpensive microscope. I use the fabulous Intel/Mattel QXL... a bargain, and really neat for looking, filming things down to 200X power... Bob Fenner>

Salt Water Aquarium for a Newbie
Bob,
I know you have heard this a thousand times or more; but here goes
anyways: great site, great information, great dedication.
<Thank you for your kind words>
I am new to the fish/reef tank scene, although I have had some interest for a while. I have been given a 33 gallon tank, a hood with lights, heater, a tank bottom filter, and a few pumps from a friend. I thought this was a great opportunity to start a salt water tank, even though I have read that you recommend at least 40 gallons for a tank.
<All aspects a "matter of degree"... bigger is better... 33 gallons is do-able>
I must have spent six hours reading up on the setup of the tank, what to start with, expected time before livestock can be introduced (fish, vertebrates, corals, etc.), and what equipment would be necessary to minimize problematic situations that could be avoided otherwise. I believe that I have taken care of the hardware side of my planning through research on the site and some advice from a few friends that have salt water tanks as well.
<Ah good>
I have decided to go with 'fish only' to start, especially since this tank is on the small side for a reef. I would like the following to be the livestock I keep in the tank (as the end result - I understand it will take some time and there will be a specific order that each will have to be added):
Dwarf Lionfish Dendrochirus biocellatus (1)
Fox Face Siganus (Lo) vulpinis (1)
OR
Rabbit Fish Siganus magnificus (1)
<I would skip both these, all Rabbitfishes... need larger quarters>
Sifter Goby Valenciennea strigata (1)
Hermit Crabs Large to avoid LionFish (6-8)
Mollusks Large to avoid LionFish (6-8)
Cleaner Shrimp Lysmata debelius (2)
<May be inhaled by the Lionfish...>
I plan to start the system with at least 40 lbs of Liverock as well
as approximately 10 lbs of smaller, old reef shards. In addition to the
hardware I listed above, I have planned to purchase a mechanical filter
(carbon), a fluid bed filter, and possibly a protein skimmer (if necessary).
<I'd pass on the fluidized bed filter (unnecessary), but do get a small skimmer>
Do you have any hardware/livestock recommendations based on the
selections I have made? Any immediate problems with the selections?
I appreciate your time and advice. Thanks in advance. 
Good Health, Ryland
<And to you my friend. Welcome to our fabulous hobby. Bob Fenner>

Tank (set-up, marine)
Hi and good evening, Bob. I have some good news for once. Today I received the "live rock", "live sand" and some Caulerpa. I put them in the tank right away. They came in a cooler covered with sea water. The live rock is fist size and has a nice growth of coralline algae and what looks like Caulerpa racemosa. The other Caulerpa pieces are feather like. My tank parameters before I added the live stuff were:
ph 8.2, ammonia 0, nitrite-N 0, nitrate-N 3, oxygen 7, silicon >2, phosphate 2. 
<Phosphate two, 2.0 ppm? This is high>
How am I doing? I will check again tomorrow to see what influence the live stuff has. My protein skimmer started to produce bubbles. When do You think I'm ready for the first fish?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef1.htm>
At the moment the pet store has only 3 azure damsels (c. parasema), 2 maroon clowns, 1 yellow tang. Some feather dusters, 1 boxer shrimp, and some small hermit crabs. How would You start adding live stock under these circumstances?
<See the WWM site>
Thanks and good night, buenas noches, gute Nacht, Bernd
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Filtration change
Hi, Bob. Hope everything is good with you and yours. The web site just gets better and better.
<Yes, thank you>
I am thinking of changing some of my filtration. I would like to get rid of the eclipse lid and replace it with a CPR hang on refugium with miracle mud. I also have an Aqua-C protein skimmer. The eclipse just leeks too much. What would be the best order?
<Best order?>
The eclipse has a bio-wheel and carbon in it. I was thinking get rid of the whole thing and then hang the refugium on, fill it with prepared water, add the miracle mud, let it settle for a day or two, then what? Is it as simple as turning on the pump? 
<Oh! Yes, that simple... you could "condition" the new rig, but this is likely unnecessary>
Being in Seattle I am going to tie the lid into to the wall for seismic support, also building a brace around the base of the tank. You are in Southern Cal. correct? How have you supported your tanks for seismic events?
<I do suggest anchoring, bracing systems in three dimensions... locking them between other heavy objects...>
One last question, Would it be dangerous to use standard carpentry glues in the lid?
<I think so. They're deemed safe to use around humans, foods...>
I am planning on lining the interior with acrylic sheets overlapping the edge of the tank to return any splashing to the tank, but don't want any fumes or indirect contact to damage the water. Thanks in advance. Lowe
<Mmm, I would use resins or varathanes to seal, color a wood hood/canopy. Bob Fenner>

Re: follow-up on new system questions
Thanks for the ideas; hope you don't mind some follow-up questions? If a
diatom bloom is a natural part of the whole process, maybe there's no need
to cut back the lighting so drastically forcing me to wait 1-2 months before
adding the other photosynthetic life I'm eager to add. 
<You are correct>
I've ordered phosphate and silicate test kits so that should tell me how much of the problem is my use of tap water, I think. 
<Yes>
Any recommendations on brands of dipstick-type test kits?
<Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/martstkitfaqs.htm>
If I wanted to add macro-algae to cut down on the nuisance stuff, would it just float around the main tank since I don't have/anticipate a sump/refugium? 
<Not necessarily..., depends on species used... Please peruse the WetWebMedia site re macro-algae of different types>
Or would it take over and deprive the corals still in planning stage) of light and nutrients? What else is good to compete with microalgae for nutrients? 
<Most any photosynthetic life that can be encouraged...>
I'm hoping I can ask fewer or at least more concise questions once I get past this start-up phase! Thanks for your help, as always. BTW, I was truly touched by your recent responses to the woman who lost her job, her dog, and then had an ich outbreak. As a psychiatrist, I thought your advice was right on, but was especially moved by your responding to her as a whole person, and not just as a fellow hobbyist with a sick tank.
<Indeed my friend. This is what we are. Bob Fenner>

100 gallon setup few questions
I know your a very busy person answering email after email. I have searched over www.wetwebmedia.com for many many hours and haven't found the help I need. my LFS's employment is rude and unwilling to help (makes you feel incompetent if you ask a question).
<Hopefully you have mentioned this apparent inappropriate attitude to them, the management>
O.K., so on to what I would like to do. I'm going to get a 100 gallon clear for life tank. I was going to go with the built in wet/dry but I am concerned about the loss of space and the ability to expand. I don't plan on getting another tank after this either so I want to make the right decision the first time. I do think that the built in wet/dry would be easiest to maintain, but I think I would like to go with an under tank sump. I am going to start the tank as a fresh water cichlid tank then change over to a salt (fish/reef combo) at some point. so I would like to have it set up so I don't have to get anything more than a skimmer, skimmer pump, and some pc lighting . I am going to purchase everything from www.exoticfish.com. so here is a list of things I think I want to get for my system as far as filtration.
1. a 100 gal. acrylic tank 60x18x10 do I want to have the corner/s drilled and have an overflow not sure that's what it is called) into the sump or do I want to do something else?
<I would drill it, or have it drilled, rather than relying on "after market" "hang on" technology>
2. the sump would be an Amiracle mr-300(not sure if you are familiar with it). it has a rating of 800 gph. would this be a sufficient enough sump for a fish/reef system?
<Should be... if a larger model will fit, I'd go with it instead>
3. a Iwaki wdm (American made motor)30 rlxt it has a rating of 960 gph. is this motor big enough or is it going to be too big?
<Should be fine... right about the right size/flow/pressure>
4. I'm not to sure about how this would be plumbed either and I haven't found much about it on the WWM site either. I think I would like to use soft tube through the whole thing to cut back on flow restrictions. would you agree with this?
<If you're very sure re the arrangement of gear, components, I'd "hard plumb" all with schedule 40 PVC, unions to/from the pump... Do check on Oz' Reef on the net re plumbing et al. ideas: http://www.ozreef.org/>
5. should I have a separate tank for overflow incase of power outage? or will the sump have enough extra room for overflow?
<The sump should be fine... if it's not big enough to go with the main tank, pump flow/transit volume, get a larger sump>
6.what kind of return method would you suggest? a power head type of attachment or some method of tubing across the back with holes to shoot multiple streams of water to try and stop dead spots?
<The former, at least back to each corner... maybe a third, fourth in the middle>
well I hope that wasn't too much for you I know your very busy. 
<No worries>
Don't worry about a fast response I wont be getting this till after x-mas. I will try to post the rest of my questions in the bbs so not to take up your time. Thanks in advance. Justin
<Be chatting my friend. Keep planning, dreaming. Have you made up a livestock list for the Africans, marines? Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Honduras
Hi, Bob. Today arrived my phosphate test kit. : Tab water: 0.2, tank water >2.0. 
<Yikes, this is a bit high>
I added 20 lbs of store bought ' Live sand" from ' Natures Ocean' before I tested . It doesn't say that it is phosphate free, maybe that's what caused the high phosphate in my tank? 
<Maybe>
How do I get it out? 
<Just time going by, algal growth>
Is my tab water phosphate o.k.? 
<Yes>
My skimmer doesn't produce a foam yet after 2 days working. 
Thanks, Bernd
<Patience my friend. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Honduras
Hallo, und guten Abend Bob. Wie ich lese bist du fliessend im Deutsch?? 
<Only know polite interrogatories mein freund>
Here are today's parameters of my tank:
spec. grav 1.022
ph 8.2
ammonia 0.0
nitrite 0.05
nitrate 3
oxygen 6-7
How am I doing? Gute Nacht, Bernd
<Mas mejor amigo. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Honduras
Hi, Bob. Thanks for Your quick reply. You mentioned the other day why I
don't go and catch local sea creatures. Here on the coast we don't have
coral. On the Bay Islands there is a lot but going there now during winter
is not so much fun. Weather might surprise You. But, what are friends for. I
have friends that own a little cayo and they promised me to bring me some
"real live sand" a live rock or two and some macro algae. 
<Ah, very good>
If we didn't have the hurricane "Michelle" I might have received the stuff already. They supplied the sand for the tank already. Have a good night, Bernd
<Be chatting my friend. Guten nacht. Bob Fenner>

Concerned (marine set-up issues)
Robert- I recently purchased your book: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and I am finding it very helpful. Actually, I wish I purchased it before I set up my 72 gallon reef tank.
<Me too>
I am concerned because I am seeing a ton fine particles almost dust-like through the water. My water has not been clear at all but its not cloudy either. I thought it would clear up after a few weeks but it hasn't. I am running a wet dry filter with 500 GPH water pump with a prefilter. I have
used crushed coral about 90 lbs of live rock. Is this coming from the live rock or is this part of the normal cycling process(4 weeks in)?
<More likely the dustiness is from the crushed coral substrate... this will clear in time... let the prefilter get/stay "dirty" as this will help>
I am also afraid I may not have cleaned the crushed coral enough. My wet dry filter has a tendency to build up with very fine- like sandy color particles on the bottom below the bio balls.
<Leave this be for now, the next few months as well>
I also noticed the water that enters the sump has a tendency to flow
a little to fast & over the sides without all of it hitting the foam sheet pad
before it drains into the bio balls. The sheet pad does turn brownish and needs to be clean every few days.
<Let it get, stay brown, slimy>
How can I slow the rate of water?
<Place a throttling valve (likely plastic/PVC ball type) on the discharge side of the pump... Or rig a Tee and discharge the extra flow to the tank bypassing the filter...>
I was told that I need a 700 GPH water pump but I am afraid that will make the water flow even
faster into the sump( bypassing the filter pad). Also, I recently started using
liquid calcium and coral vital to promote growth on the live rock.
<Drop the vital of any sort>
Is this wise or I am defeating the purpose by using the protein skimmer with the calcium & coral vital? Any suggestion you have would greatly be appreciated. Thanks Ron
<Please take the time to peruse our principal website: www.WetWebMedia.com re Marine Set-up, Filtration... and do write back if you have particular questions. Otherwise, time just going by will solve the cloudiness. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Honduras
Hi, Bob. Thanks for the quick reply. Your web sites are awesome. One
question ( I never seem to run out of those!); Should I add liquid bacteria
weekly as stated on the bottle or will the system take care of itself once
started?
<Please read the link sent. I wouldn't add>
I'm installing the Remora ps and I bought the pre-filter box. It is
humongous and the outlet section can hold 1 liter of filter material. I will
fill it with Siporax to have additional biological filtration. is that O.k.
<Unnecessary>
BTW, we have an activated filter under our kitchen sink and all water for
human consumption is boiled. No other treatment.
<Good enough>
I don't know what else we could do to improve our well water.
<Reverse osmosis and carbon in line filtration ahead of it... with possible particulate filtration in front of this... would be the best, cheapest, easiest long term approach>
There are no institutions here that offer help. I was worried about the high silica but I think if I put a phosphate/silica remover ( like Seachem's PHOSGUARD) in my filters, shouldn't that help? 
<Yes>
I could have that by Christmas. I'll keep you informed about the tests in my tank. Anyway, the whole county here is flooded right now (5 days of rain) and nothing goes. 
<Mmm, hasn't rained here in San Diego county proper for several months... wish it would>
So, no fish for my tank at least for another week anyway. They have to come from the next city. Bernd
<Or "off the porch"... no interest in the "local" (Honduras) sealife? Bob Fenner>

Tank Honduras
Hi, Bob. Finally some good news. Today most of the stuff that I ordered myself did arrive. I tested the water right away and the parameters after 2 weeks running are:
spec grav 1.022
ph 8.2
ammonia 0.1
nitrite 0.9 ( total nitrite 3)
nitrate 3.4 ( total nitrate 15)
dis. oxygen 6+
silica 2+
copper 0
My tab water (well water):
ph 6.4
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 2.27 ( total 10)
<Yikes, this is high... do you treat this water before your drinking, cooking use?>
oxygen 4.0
silica 2+
copper 0
My phosphate kit didn't arrive. I added 2 powerheads to the tank. plenty current now (300 and 400 gal/h). Also the AquaC skimmer is here. Should I run it already or later?
<Now>
Unfortunately the Bio wheel is with the order through the pet store and that hasn't arrived yet (after 10 weeks) I added some more bacteria. What do You make of the results? 
<Fine... NO3 and Si)2 a bit high... but workable>
I'm somewhat confused with the nitrate result. Shouldn't it be higher then the first time? (see my last e-mail). My nitrate and nitrite test kit is different from the one used the first time. That's why I put actual readings in parentheses. Should I change the crab meat or leave it till the first fish are place in the tank?
<Remove it... the "system" has started to cycle... it's just polluting the water at this point. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thank You as always, Bernd

Marine Set Up
I have great respect for the knowledge you share with all aquarists alike. Thank you. I have had success with fish only but I am now setting up a 90 gallon reef tank with Hamilton's 150W HQI Reefstar lighting systems and supplementing with 2 55W retrofit actinic power compacts. First of all do you think this is enough light to keep SPS? 
<Yes>
Secondly what do you think of this light setup.
<Very useful mix of spectra, intensity>
Tank dimensions 48x18x24 high. My canopy is 12 inches high made of maple. The Reefstar lights are meant to be hung with wires but also have tabs to mount to canopies. Some are suggesting that I use a heat blanket like the ones they have at muffler shops and mount it in between the canopy and lighting fixture. Is this necessary for safety reasons?
<Yes, a good idea. Either this or other thermal insulation, reflectance.>
I will be mounting two cooling fans inside the canopy. Also, can you suggest a sump return pump for this tank that quiet. Thinking of using an Iwaki MD30XLT.
<This should be fine>
Sorry, but another question. Have you ever heard of anyone using DYNAMAT for insulating aquarium stands. DYNAMAT is used as a vibration absorber in automobiles with high powered audio systems to reduce vibration rattle in trunks and so forth.
<Haven't seen this, but does sound like good idea for spreading out force/weight and preventing marks on carpet/floors>
Thanks for your help. I was wondering if I "DYNAMATED" the stand and beneath the return pump if you think it would reduce noise. 
<No, no noise reduction... the pumping, water-gurgling/plumbing are largest sources of noise by far in aquariums... vibration very tertiary>
I am trying to setup a quiet aquarium to make viewing as enjoyable as possible. If not dynamat what about foam like the sound absorbing foam used in recording studios? Any comments you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob.
<Do read, dream, scheme about plumbing arrangements. Please see the FAQs on Plumbing here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbfaqsmar.htm... don't worry about noise from vibration. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Light, filter & Marc Wiess
Hi Bob,
When I was running a reef tank (several years worth) I had great success with a multitude of NO fluorescents (4 or more).
<Yes... they still work>
I remember how I loved the increased brightness of Tritons and my corals did as well. They last a bit longer than others I have tried before replacement is needed. Now that I am back in the reefers world, what I do remember from their usage is a proliferation of nuisance algae. Sure enough, I recently added some to my tank and VIOLA and outbreak of nuisance algae!
<Purple? Oh voila, just pulling your fins>
No problem before. Nothing has changed with my fish, corals or feeding & maintenance. Just the tubes of Triton. Is the extra red peak in these tubes fueling nuisance algae?
<Mmm, not likely>
Sumps are still out of the question if you ask my wife. Just another plaything for my two year old.
<There are "child locks" of various designs...>
I was wondering if you can tell me if the new Hagen 404's are a good buy?
<IMO yes>
Marc Weiss has a product out call Phosphate and Silicate Magnet.
Phosphates and silicates fuel nuisance algae as well, so their elimination
via chemical media removal would be nice. Any words of wisdom? zimmy
<Don't know about wisdom, but I don't endorse the use of these chemical filtrants... unnecessary, expensive, toxic in ways... I encourage the use of "biological methods"... live rock, substrates, growing of macro-algae... these and avoiding much input of these compounds is all you need. Bob Fenner>

Looking for free aquarium gear
If anybody might be interested, any body at all, like the people on your
mailing list, maybe even you or your staff,
<Mmm, no staff. You might want to post to the chatforum directly: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/>
I am wanting to collect aquarium junk, anything at all, broken filters, used aquariums, working filters, decorations, anything at all. ANYTHING that is AQUARIUM related. These items will be fixed and used in any way. they will be used at my high school, which has many aquariums, but nothing for them, like hoods, stands anything. so I again ask for anything that you do not want that is aquarium related. Thanks a lot, Nathan Alvis
You can reach me at hotmail.com
P.S.  Maybe you could post it on your page!!
<Will do so. Bob Fenner>
Send items too:
Nathan Alvis
739 Mount Rainier Drive
Indianapolis, Indiana
46217

Clean tank
My Tank walls get dirty every 3-4 days and I am not to sure if I should vacuum out what ever I scrape off or let the filter take care of it?
I have an Eco. Sys. and if I vacuum every 4 days that seems like allot of
wasted Salt water. My Bio load is small I only have LR in Tank now.
<Please read over our principal site: www.WetWebMedia.com re maintenance. Bob Fenner>
Thanks DG

First Timer- Saltwater
Question- I have just started a Saltwater tank for the first time. It is 72
gallon reef ready tank. Everyone I talk to seems to give a different opinion.
<I've observed the same phenomenon>
I am two weeks into the cycling process. I have added about 85 lbs of Live Rock, crushed coral and four Damsels (1 has died already).
<No need for the Damsels here... there's enough proteinaceous material in the life on/in the rock to cycle the system on its own>
I have a Wet/Dry Filter on it with a Mag Drive water pump that operates at 500 gph. I was told 500 gph was sufficient but I have also been told I need at least 750 gph based on the tank size(72 gallon).
<Mmm, either one will do... "your actual flow rate will vary" as the ads go... so more might well be a bit better>
I even had another store sell me a 950 gph and they told me to install ball valve on it to slow down the water flow back into the tank. I tried the 950 gph with the valve and it was just too strong even when I turned the valve 3/4 shut. So I went back to the 500 gph.
<Good idea. What I would have done>
What size water pump do you recommend based on the tank size? 
<The one you have... plus maybe some powerheads or small internal pumps to move the water around in the tank...>
Also, I just started to develop the brown stuff on the live rock as well as the crushed coral. I was told this was normal but was told to start running my protein skimmer.
<Also valid and a good idea>
Someone else told me not to run the protein skimmer for the first few months. I would appreciate any other advice you could give a first timer with a saltwater tank. Thanks Ron
<Do run the skimmer... and take a long read through our site: www.WetWebMedia.com, especially the sections and FAQs on set-up: http://wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm
No need, cause for confusion re disparate, conflicting opinions. Seek to understand the underlying facts for these statements, points of view... if the folks fronting them can't, won't provide justification, abandon their input, make up your own mind. Bob Fenner>

Follow-up on new system questions
Dear Bob, Thanks so much for your usual quick response! Don't see how you do it, but it's a greatly appreciated service.
<Allocation of resources...>
I'm not sure the best way to help you track our dialogue; is it best to keep using "reply"? but then you'd have to re-read stuff...let me know. 
<Don't mind... whatever conveys.>
You suggested we have more "back and forth" to help you gauge my background/intent, but we sort of did that to some degree about a month ago, though I sure wouldn't expect you to remember one person out of
the gazillion you correspond with.
<Not w/o some "hook"...>
Anyway, I plan to go ahead with something that's close to the "fish and hardy invert variation" in your book, but am set up with enough lighting and skimming and h20 testing info that I could move gradually into more of a full reef.
<No difficulty with having "more", better filtration, lighting...>
AS far as the fish stocking plan with the clowns, flame angel longnose hawk Banggai, Firefish/Dottyback, and blenny, you said they'd all be happier in about twice the gallons (I have a 46). 
<Ah! Now I'm remembering.>
I sure hope you meant that if I wanted all those fish, I should have a bigger tank.
<Yes>
You said to think in terms of approx 15 inches adult sizes without tails, so how about just a pair of clowns, a flame angel and a longnose hawk, and
maybe a small blenny to help with sand stirring?
<Mmm, would prefer a "dwarf-dwarf" angel... like Fisher's, Flame Back, Argi... you know where this coverage is: http://wetwebmedia.com/centropy.htm
The Flame will get/be "cramped">
With a group like this, would there be strongly preferred sequence?
<Clowns first, Blenny last>
If you buy two fish at the same time from the same tank e.g. at the LFS, could you quarantine quarantine them together? 
<Yes>
My QT TANK is a 26 gallon, or should I just discipline myself to buy and quarantine one fish at a time?.. I assume a mated pair, e.g.. clowns would
be the obvious exception?
<Hmm, mated? I strongly suggest just getting a couple of small tank-raised individuals. "Mated pairs" from the wild aren't all that hardy...>
I appreciate you input/support, and please let me know if I should use a different format to help you track our "back and and forth".
Best wishes, Al Tribe
<This is about all I know, suggest we do format- and content-wise. Bob Fenner>

Re: follow-up on new system questions
Hi, you're outdoing yourself for lightning fast responses. I'm not sure why this is starting a new line with each word now, I'm a novice at email as well as reefs. I'm getting the hang of navigating your site, finally. I need to do more research clearly on a colorful, peaceful and reef safe companion for a pair of clowns and maybe a hawk. Would a 46 be too small for a pair of clowns , Firefish and a fairy wrasse? No need to reply; I'll do more research first. Thanks again, Al
<Should be fine. Bob Fenner>

Hello!!! Finally writing you after reading SO much.. information about my setup.. then Questions!!!!
First off, thanks a ton for maintaining such a useful collection of marine aquarium knowledge. I am a very young marine enthusiast, and just bought my first aquarium (for saltwater that is) only two months ago! 
<Much to learn, enjoy...>
It is already bringing me much joy, although it has proved to be an expensive hobby! Nothing relaxes me more after a long day's work than coming home and taking care of my fishes. First off, what I have equipment wise:
75 gallon glass tank (48lx18dx24h)
Fluval 404 canister filter
Red Sea "Prizm" protein filter
(2) 200 watt heaters
(2) AquaClear 301 powerheads
110 watt 48inch lighting hood with ultra compact bulbs (9325 K is what the box said)
also two five gallon buckets I keep for my weekly 10 gallon water change!
<Ah, good idea, use>
As for livestock:
40lbs hand picked Fiji live rock, from my wonderful local pet store.
(they pointed me to your writings and from there I found you on the web!)
<Ah, good>
40lbs of base "Fiji pink" Aragamax substrate , with 20lbs of live sand on top of it (Well..... I got the sand, rock, tank, stand.. all the equipment home in one night of frantic delight.. and stayed up until sunrise the next day getting everything up and running! It was work but well worth it.. )
<Wowzah, another fellow pet-fish fanatic!>
The first three brave soldiers in the tank were: a Tasmanian Damselfish, a Domino Damsel, and a Orange tailed blue damselfish. They are all about the same size, get along GREAT, and have not been picky at all (despite all the anti-damsel sentiment I've found in multiple writings on the web).
After weathering the storm, I have recently added, in addition to my wonderful damsels, a Scopas Tang (I love how he took care of my brown algae problem!! I can see color other than brown on my liverock again!), a porcupine puffer (my girlfriends only request in my saltwater endeavor), a Panther Grouper (yes I should tell you at this point- I am aiming to create a rather aggressive fish only (with liverock/sand) tank! And last but not least, I am about to add a Niger Trigger (a SMALL one, from what I've read in your CMA book- smaller is better with those guys!) 
<Yes>
I also eventually want to add an Eel, but this is all subject to my fish behaving and getting along ok. As far as problems, I have been told the panther grouper will get VERY large (up to sixteen inches) and will eventually require his own tank. 
<Larger... not quite this size... maybe ten inches or so... and not its own tank... can go with larger tankmates>
I am O.K. with this, as I plan to buy separate tanks eventually. My first question is, how long do I have before this cute guy (at 3.5 inches) grows to that size? 
<Likely will be six inches or so in as many months... maybe eight in a year... ten in two... Can/could speed up/slow down growth via feeding/s>
I have also heard that If my puffer reaches full size (11 inches) I may have to move him.. would he coexist with the grouper in a "large guys only" tank, in the future? 
<Sure>
I am a college student on a modest budget, and am wondering what my time window is for getting the money together for a second tank such as this one. Next up is my skimmer; it is loud, and I can't see 25%of my tank because of the thousands of micro bubbles it produces and puts into the water.. it has a control for flow which reduces bubbles.. but the instructions also say that reduces efficiency, and I don't want to make my little guys have a harder life so I can see them better.. is there a solution to this? 
<Save up and get another/better skimmer... Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm
and beyond. The Prizm product is by design/engineering puny/for small systems, noisy, hard to adjust...>
I shopped around here in Atlanta, but did make one mistake- in my techno savvy age, I completely forgot to shop on the internet for anything. Do you recommend I try and replace this skimmer (or any of my other equipment for that matter?)
<The skimmer, yes>
I also want a sump so bad, that way my tank looks cleaner, my problem is my tank has a "tempered glass bottom" and had a sticker on it warning not to drill it- Is there any way around that? or am I stuck with hang on the back type units?
<There are "automatic water leveling/removing" boxes/devices that work fine. See the WWM site re Links to CPR's site for illustrations>
I've read every detail of the sump FAQ, but I haven't found anywhere a diagram for setup or multiple ways to set it up. What additional equipment is required?
<Many possibilities, DIY and store bought... we can discuss these>
Also.. can you suggest an eel that would fit in well with my other fishes (if at all!) I want either a Tesselata (spell check!)
<Tesselata>
or Zebra moray (for their beauty) but I do not want to buy something that will be too big for captivity. If they are truly left to the wild *sigh* I'll take your advice on that one, I just need some clear advice on it is all. 
<Slow down on the stocking for a month or two here is my advice. We can/will discuss Eels later>
I started this originally to get one thing, an eel, but the more and more I hear, they are not good for a community (albeit a dysfunctional aggressive community) tank like the one I am setting up.. also any suggestions you have in general would be helpful!! Thank you so much. Your CMA book has REALLY given me a lot of insight as well as desire to understand more about marine fishes. I really enjoy this as a true hobby, I was hobby less before I started reading your books.
<Ah... societies can be measured (directly) as to their richness/wealth by the strength of their diversions...>
Thank you again!!! Keep up the great work, it truly is an excellent service to others! Bill Hammond, Atlanta, GA
<Will do so my friend. Thank you for relating your experiences, aspirations. Bob Fenner>
P.S. I just remembered, the puffer has been in the tank for about four days, and has not eaten at all. In your book it said hunger strikes are common, but how long is too long? 
<Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/diodontidfaqs.htm>
I've tried frozen shrimp and squid, he just doesn't take it like all my other fish.. by the way, I feed my Scopas tang seaweed daily, he LOVES the stuff.. any ideas for variety for the Scopas tang? 
<Other "human intended" algaes... from the oriental food store/section>
I'd sure love to give him a mix of foods, instead of the same ol' seaweed (unless that's what he wants!)

Tank start-up questions
Hi Bob,
I am a newbie in salt water aquaria. I've just started up a 77gal saltwater tank and have a few questions.
11 days ago I purchased some synthetic sea salt and 11 lbs of cured live rock at my LFS (I also have ~15 lbs of base rock). They told me it would be fine to introduce the rock into the tank right away after making the seawater. 
<Mmm, the ubiquitous, indefinite pronoun, "we"... Well, I would/do recommend pre-mixing the water and letting the system go at least a few days with just this (a week is ideal) before introducing live rock... Too much of it likely to not be, stay very live setting up and placing all at once...>
They also said that it would be best for me to introduce a few damsels into the tank a couple of days after adding the LR. 
<Now it's "they"... What do you think? What other sources of information do/did you have? These "small errors" can be trouble...>
I wanted to wait a few weeks but they said that I should put them into the tank before any sizeable amount of ammonia formed from the LR (so they could slowly acclimate to the water conditions during the cycling period). 
<What? What sort of logic is this? Put yourself in a similar "mental picture". You're being placed in an environment that will become toxic in a short while... so you can "get used to it" ahead of being poisoned? Does this make sense?>
When I bought the fish they gave me a bag of water and some substrate from one of their invertebrate tanks to "kick start" my tank with.
<This would be/is a good idea... stipulated the system the water/gravel came from is clean of pests, parasites... But unnecessary given your/the use of live rock... plenty of beneficial microbes, macrobes there>
My questions:
- Did I kill most of the organisms in the LR by introducing it into my tank this way? (I know your book suggests not to place LR into the tank until the system has been running for at least 24hrs and all water conditions are correct and stable.) My water conditions were not exactly stable as I was still adjusting the salinity and temperature after I introduced the LR.
<Ah! Glad to read of "other input"... Answer: Maybe... could be very little lost in rushing ahead here to wholesale wipe-out of new organisms on/in your rock... You will/would be able to tell if it's the latter>
- My tank has not started cycling is it going to? 
<Yes>
I have been testing the water conditions every day since I introduced the damsels into the tank (9 days ago). So far I have consistently found, salinity: 1.0215, pH: 8.5, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0 and today I've found nitrate: 5 mg/L. 
<It may have/be already cycled...>
There is also a lot of brown algae growing all over the rocks and starting to form on the substrate. (I have a fluidized bed filter for biological filtration).
<Mmm>
- Should I start protein skimming now?
<Yes, I would>
- Would it be safe to add a yellow tang to the tank now to try and control the algae growth?
<Not a Yellow Tang, not just yet. Are you intending to add invertebrates as a "clean-up" crew? You might consider adding some of these. Wait on "real fishes" for a good month. Please read through the "Marine Set-Up", starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm
and associated FAQs files, and any other sections you'd like others input on (though the onus, pleasure of making up your own mind of course rests with you), posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance for your advice, Steve.
BTW, your book has been a great resource for me. My only regret is that I bought it after I started the tank.
<Ah, am pleased you found/find it of use. Bob Fenner>

Fw: still more confusion for a novice...help!. (Marine Set-up)
Dear Bob, I feel like I' m being a pest since most of the answers are surely somewhere on your unbelievable web site, but the more FAQs I read the more confused I get. 
<Mmm, not good...>
I thought your book (which I love) would straighten me out, but it just made me question my whole premise of starting a reef as my first saltwater venture. 
<It should my friend. Better to start with a "simpler, more forgiving" marine set-up... like a fish only one... that you can add more to, upgrade with some practice... for most people.>
The LFS said "you've done discus; it will be no problem", but you suggest starting with fish-only. Maybe I'm stubborn but have been planning for months and invested in lots of lighting, etc, so I' hoping to go ahead....Anyway let me recap the system and then ask some questions:
<Okay>
46 gallons, no sump, with 2x96 pc's, an Eheim 2026 (250gph), a CPR BakPak skimmer(200gph), a HOT Magnum(250gph)-mostly as place to run carbon/polyfilters, etc; for extra circulation 2 power sweeps (270gph each). Soon will be getting 60# LR from Paragon, supposedly fully enough cured so there's likely to be only a very brief ammonia spike. Oh, and 60 # of aragonite.
<Sounds good>
The overall plan/wish is to have some hardy corals, some interesting inverts snails, shrimps) sand stirrers, feather dusters, pulsing xenias (sp?), and, of course, some fish (more on them in a minute)., and maybe some clams.
Questions: 1- I've seen conflicting advice on whether to start the lights on at 12 hrs/day immed. after the LR goes in or to build up to that?
<Likely fine to just start with the 12/day light regimen here... for size of system/shape... and quality, amount of live rock. I would start immediately>
2- similar confusion on when to add clean-up critters....as soon as ammonia and nitrite are zero, or wait till there's enough algae to warrant them?
<The latter is best>
3-am I correct in assuming that, as a general rule, inverts should be added before any fish go in? If not, what determines the best sequence of stocking?
<Mmm, no general "first in" rule here... depends on tolerance of animals to changes in system, behavior towards other livestock, size... Some can go in early that are oblivious, non-palatable, e.g. Seastars... Others are better placed later, e.g. most shrimps>
4-re: fish: I know all the guidelines are just approximate, but to start somewhere, is it reasonable to think in terms of 23" of fish for 46 gallons?
<Mmm, only if these are small specimens of species that stay relatively small. Better to consider 10-15 inches (not counting tails...) in this size, shape system as a maximum (not initial) capacity>
Somewhere you wrote "cubic inches", but I'm not sure how to interpret that exactly, except for the obvious fact that a fat meat-eater probably adds more to the bioload than a slender herbivore.
<Mmm, don't recall context. Something like this probably...>
So, here goes: this is a list of some fish I'd love to have that I think would be compatible, and based on adult sizes from Scott Michael's book), would possibly be a reasonable load, knowing I'd be adding slowly, quarantining, testing h2o, etc.
1 pair of clowns, probably ocellaris
1 flame angel
1 longnose hawk
1- Banggai cardinal
1 orchid Dottyback
1 Firefish or purple Firefish
1 blenny, possibly lawnmower
<Well... other than the Dottyback and Firefish (just one or the other, too much likelihood of negative interaction), this is a mixable group of species... but would all be better off in a system of about twice as many gallons as you propose.>
That's 23" of fish linear inches!) right there; I also was thinking of maybe substituting a 6-line wrasse or even a Scott's Fairy wrasse, for some of the above.
<For two of the above. Possibly the Hawk and Dottyback/Firefish>
So, how does that look? I'd appreciate any input on the selection and stocking sequence you'd advise. Am I being way too greedy on total # of fish, given my set-up? Should I choose between clams and the flame angel? or between shrimps and the longnose hawk?
<Mmm, hard to judge any/all of this w/o our going back/forth a few times in this medium (for me to gauge your background, intent), but really would like to have you "just start" here and run your 46 with whatever part of the above livestock plan you settle on, ahead of trying tridacnids, shrimps (if you're set on the Hawk)... No real value in doing too much "long-range" planning here>
One funny story before I end my long-winded list of questions> I was snorkeling off Kauai, and saw a bright chartreuse fish that looked almost like garbage or a food wrapper with lots of fringes, appendages, etc. I wasn't even sure it was a fish at all until I saw an eye, and became sure it was swimming away from me, not just floating around. I checked all the books in the local bookstores and asked several locals working at snorkel/dive shops. I was told there was no such fish!,, But in my recent reef-studies, I'm pretty sure it was a dragon wrasse, not a hallucination, after all. But I still haven't seen or heard of one that color yet.
<Neat... or maybe one of the other Razorfish species found there... distinctive in their locomotion as well...>
Better stop here, thanks again for all your help and patience, especially with all us beginners! Best, wishes, Al
<A pleasure my friend. Bob Fenner>

New tank with old fishes (a tail, trial of challenge, improvement, awakening)
Hello, I am new to the site and have found your answers so helpful. In a nutshell, we have a 55 long saltwater tank. We had converted it from fresh to salt several years ago without any problem. Up until about 2 months ago we were running on a UGF with 2 power heads and an old whisper filter. We had a porcupinefish, Niger, Huma, and 2 damsels. Our water quality was suffering and cloudy and went to our store and they suggested a slow switch over. We purchased the ecosystem 40 mud filter and started it while our other filters continued on. We eventually purchased 10lbs. of live rock with plans to continue to add more slowly. After a while we turned off the UGF and our fish suffered. They started looking sick so we reactivated the UGF. Apparently we also let a cloud of ammonium sulfide gas into our tank. We lost half of our fish and our tank smelled like rotten eggs.
<Yikes... likely related to shutting off the undergravel filter... the proteins there underwent anaerobic digestion...>
Not knowing what to do, we took our 3 remaining fish to the local pet store and started over. Within 4 hours, we had drained our tank dry, removed the old filter and substrate and started over. Of note, we used our own tap water with conditioner and instant ocean added.
<Okay>
We now have the 55 long tank, with the ecosystem 40 mud filter and 2 power heads; one for current and one ripples the surface. We added 20lb. sand and 25 lb. live sand and our 10lbs. of live cured rock 3 old snails and let our tank recycle without fish. We also then felt an electric charge in our tank. We determined it was somehow coming from our 10 year old hood. We replaced the hood, but wanted not to spend too much money, but also leave the option for invertebrates and corals open. We purchased the Oceanic 48" 110w hood 9325 Kelvin HO hood/lamps. After it cycled we went and bought 25 more pounds of live cured rock and let it cycle. The rock made it recycle which it has just finished, but now has a rust/orange algae all over it. It is all over the rock, the sand, the powerheads. The fish store said not to worry about it. 
<Sound advice... this will "cycle out">
Our tank water tests great- no ammonia, no nitrite, no nitrate, ph 8.1, KH with tetra test 11 gtts, phosphate small, ca 300 (we have no coral). I went today and picked up my small Huma and 1 damsel that survived the ordeal. The fish store said the algae would die off. I purchased 4 small snails, 2 hermit crabs, and a small dragon goby. I also started purchasing their RO water. Salted for tank changes and unsalted for top off. Now for the questions:
<Your Trigger may eat the snails, crabs in time...>
What can I do to not get ammonium sulfide again? I heard it was from stagnant pockets of gas in your tank. Should I vacuum and disturb the sand when cleaning now that the undergravel filter is gone?
<You will not encounter this problem going forward... due to the changes/upgrades you have made (sand, live rock, mud filter...), but/and do regular maintenance in gravel vacuuming, water changes...>
What do you think about the mud filter? They said you don't need a protein skimmer. It is hard because most info does not refer to this type of filter system.
<A novel but sound technology/approach. I do differ with the originator/owner Leng Sy in suggesting that for many cases folks do employ a skimmer... at least till it is obvious that this tool is no longer removing material>
What is the orange/rust algae? Will continuing with RO water which should eventually reduce the phosphate help? Should I just get a larger hardy tang to take care of it?
<The algae could be a mix of blue-greens, other Divisions of true algae... just let time go by... it will go of its own accord. If you would like, and it fits into your stocking plan, consider a genus Zebrasoma or Ctenochaetus tang (covered on the WWM site)>
As for the lighting, I am very unfamiliar. What can we get with this type of lighting (Pretending the Huma isn't there). Corals? Inverts/anemones? They said it has the needed blue spectrums.
<No blue light necessary (enough comes with the types of lamp you have)... but do hold off on even hardy corals, other invertebrates for a month or two here... You've undergone quite a project here thus far... better to let all settle in, become more familiar before proceeding with new trials>
What about more fish what kinds would you suggest and what would be the maximum load in a system like this?
<Time to read, study... the livestocking articles, many FAQs on the WWM site>
How much Ca is needed for the live rock?
<A variable answer... as much so as LR itself... 350-450 ppm is ideal... But don't obsess. The 300 ppm you have is fine for now.>
Thank you so much for you time and knowledge, Christine O.
<Life, service to you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Diving (and continuing marine tank set-up)
Good morning again, Bob. Sounds good, snorkeling again together one day. I haven't been doing any diving for many years. Your idea about collecting my own fish sounds good but impractical. I know how quick those fish hide in the coral. I might need 3 tanks to catch 1 fish.
<Hmm, you simply lack collecting knowledge and gear. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcoll.htm
I wish I could reach through space and time, this machine and hand you my copy of Robert P.L. Straughan's "The Marine Collector's Guide" published in 1973... largely over his experiences in Belize>
I live in La Ceiba, on the north coast. Unfortunately our water on the beaches is too polluted and no coral. So, catching fish close by is out of question.
I'll go for the protein skimmer. I think I can convince my wife that 2 small fans on the tank top don't ruin too much of her living room decor. I'm really glad that I don't need more light. So, 1.5"-2" of live sand is o.k. Because a lot of people recommend 4" or more. If my dealer can provide crushed coral gravel, would that be o.k.? 
<Yes, fine>
I could siphon that with a gravel cleaner like I do now. I will add 2 power heads as You said. So, thanks to Your encouraging words, I'll go ahead and collect all the necessary stuff and hopefully by Christmas the tank will be running. I have plenty time and patience. I know that cycling the tank might take 2 month. I read that as ammonia source instead of fish You can put a cup of chopped clam in the tank when cycling it.
<Yes, any source of protein>
Cleaner and easier on the fish. Is that true?
<Yes, but just small amounts. Do utilize test kits for ammonia, nitrite>
Heads up. I know from history and experience that the American people have the spiritual and mental strength to overcome such moments of tragedy. Till next time, thanks, Bernd
<Thank you my friend. Better times for all. Bob Fenner>

Re: marine fish
Good day Bob. We all here in Honduras mourn for You Americans.
<I mourn the human species, civilization, individuals lost through such ignorance, blind hatred>
What a disaster for all involved and for the world and human race in general.
Thanks for answering my questions so quick. I have been in Roatan 3 weeks ago on a snorkeling vacation. Beautiful .
<Do wish I were with you...>
I collected some dead coral rock which I am curing right now to use as decoration for my tank. I have at the moment 2x20W and 1x15 W 50/50 fluorescent bulbs. Is that enough for a fish only tank? 
<Yes>
I don't want to put too much light for fear of increasing water temp. even more.
<I understand... you also may want to put timers on... run the lighting toward nighttime when it's cooler. It matters naught to the fishes>
My dealer here can get me live sand. Is that a good idea for a beginner?
<An "okay" one... not essential in your case... and there may be troubles if too much of the material in it dies too fast...>
I have no UG filter. Is 1.5" deep enough? 
<Yes>
I have read Your FAQ sections and gotten different answers. Also, Can I put some pieces of live rock on top of my dead coral and will it eventually seed those corals? 
<Yes>
Is my lighting enough for live rock?
<Should be fine>
I also think that a hang on type protein skimmer might add to my temperature.
<Not much... It's worth it>
Can I run the tank without one. I checked AquaC's website and they have the Remora pro which is o.k. for me. But all of them will heat up my water.
Thanks again. You have a wonderful web site. Bernd
<Thank you my friend. Be chatting, hopefully in some distant, happier time diving with you. Bob Fenner>

Rebuilding a saltwater tank
Mr. Fenner,
I wrote to you about two weeks ago. I ask for some advice about how to go about how slowly, and what steps to take when improving my mothers tank. To recap I listed how I would clean up all of the equipment, the tank itself, and change the deplorable water conditions. All while keeping the best interests of the yellow tang who called that swamp home. :)
<Yes, I recall>
As of now all of the equipment is sparkling. The skimmer is working overtime and pulling out a crazy amount of unwanted material. I added a rotating powerhead for more circulation. I am battling a diatoms problem but slowly yet surely it becomes less and less. My concern now is the live rock. When I cleaned the sand bed I first used a turkey baster to blow over the live rock. Much of the rock is mud brown, with only a small (I mean very small) spattering of red coralline algae on it. The rest is bleached white.
<How's that Fagan song refrain go? "Hey, it will come back".>
I loaded myself up with caffeine and read over and over again about macro-algae on your web-site. As well as coralline algae.
<Bunches there... someday to be sifted/edited through...>
My question to you is this. I don't see a possibility of anything sprouting up even with the improved conditions for the live rock. Is it dead and I should invest in some new rock?
<Some yes... to place over the old>
Or could I keep on top of the water conditions for a longer amount of time and purchase a culture of macro-algae from my LFS or FFX? Can live rock become dead and resuscitated?
<Yes to all possibilities>
Any thoughts or idea would be welcome! Thank you for allowing me to ask my many questions. I apologies for the length of this letter. Gabby
<No worries my friend. They should be as long as service can provide. Service to you. Bob Fenner>

Appreciation and questions (on marine set-up)
Dear Bob, As a total beginner in saltwater/reefs (with lots of freshwater experience), I was just blown away to find your website and even more amazed that you can offer to answer questions from the whole cyber-public. I really appreciate the chance t o benefit from your experience.
<You would do the same my friend... given similar circumstances, background>
So, here's my plan so far; do you see any glaring errors or oversights?:
I'm starting a mini-reef with a 46 gallon bow front tank, a CPR BakPak (planning to keep the biobale in for a while, or replace it with bio-mech or the equiv),
<Ah, see you've been studying>
a JBJ hood with 2x96 PC's (one actinic, one white-don't know the exact specs), about 50# LR (planning to get some that claims to be already cured, but treat it as if it's uncured and use it to cycle the tank),
<You are knowledgeable here>
40# of aragonite and 20# of so-called live sand (i.e. I bought a bag of it @ LFS-packed in h2o and claims to have lots of live bacteria).
<Am sure it does>
For now I'd like to avoid the complexity of sumps (the tank doesn't have a built-in overflow), but plan to add either a power filter&/or a canister for aeration/circulation, as well as some powerheads for same.
See any problems so far?
<No>
By the way I plan to keep some hardy corals, get some "clean up critters", and detritivores, and later slowly add as many small fish as the bioload will allow safely.
Questions: 1- Your website said ok to use tap h20, but everyone else (almost everyone, anyway) says to use RO or RO/DI.
<The latter are better, but often unnecessary. Do you drink, cook with the tap water? I wouldn't worry if so.>
My local water company sent me a report which looks really good except for copper!( .13 ppm I think). So it seems to me that even though I'd love to use tap water, wouldn't the copper concentration just gradually increase to toxic levels if I use tap water to replace evaporation and to make SW?
<Good question. No. Almost all of this copper will "settle out/precipitate" on contact with the synthetic salt mix... any residual can be quickly removed by passing the water over activated carbon or Polyfilter (tm)>
The LFS sells RO and a purified ocean h20. Are they just trying to sell stuff?? They seem very honest and knowledgeable, and have some dynamite display reef tanks-probably 1000 gallons.
<Perhaps they're well-intentioned and just trying to do the best for you, your livestock. You can try/experiment with both sources of water... If you find you prefer the reverse osmosis or even RO/DI water you can purchase a unit for your own use later.>
2- re: LR placement-on the tank bottom under substrate as in Paletta's book) or is it ok to put it on the substrate? 
<You can do either... eventually it will be more "under" unless elevated by a device...>
I'd rather not mess with egg crate, PVC etc. I think I've seen both opinions on your website, so I'm confused and wonder how much it really matters for a beginner system like mine? 
<Hmm, more a consideration of "neatness" (i.e. ability to clean about, and "tipping over danger" (from bumping into by aquarists, undermining by livestock...>
Aesthetically, I'd prefer rock on top of gravel and it seems like that would be more stable, too.
<For a while... as time goes by the more dense material tends to "gravitate"... sink toward the bottom... with less dense material "rising">
3- re: supplemental filtration. I'm debating between a power filter like the new TetraTec which has a cool external heater (300 gph/200 watts) and a so-called surge action probably hype) or an Emperor with a bio-wheel(280 gph). I've used a small Eheim for fresh h2o. I know you advise them and mine worked great, but I found it a pain to clean, re-start, etc.
<They've gotten better in recent years... new features make Eheim's easier to maintain>
The Filstar line seems popular, well-made, and convenient, not to mention cheaper. Any suggestions? Can you have too much biological filtration? 
<Another very fine question... It is possible, and common to have too much "unbalanced" biological filtration... for sure. The prime example is overdriven nitrification (prompting aerobic microbes to convert nitrogenous wastes (mainly ammonias) to nitrites to nitrates... But there are many other "cycles" (attention is narrowed perception)... There is a trend (along with live rock, and intentional and not live sand use) toward "more complete" biological filtration, employing "cryptic zones", and livestock like sponges (a large part of live rock btw) and tunicates/sea squirts, and "set-aside" areas in captive systems allowing slower flow rates, less light, eco-clinal variation... To allow more balanced biological filtration. Pardon me for going on. In your and most cases here, having enough denitrification coupled with nitrification suffices. Deep sand beds, more live rock, macro-algae, plenums, refugium/sumps... will get you there>
Would the combo of LR, skimmer, power filter, and canister be "too much"? It seems it could just give an extra margin of safety, yes?
<Not too much. Look into the "other direction" of conversion however... We can/will talk about the forward influences more later if you'd like>
4- re: circulation. I'm planning to have several powerheads, but am unsure about a wavemaker. 
<In such a size, type system, I would hold off>
I saw an inexpensive one built in to a power strip, but I'm told they're very hard on pumps. How about these Powersweep Powerheads that rotate constantly? 
<A very good product, especially considering price. A winner import for a friend of mine (Gary Bagnall of ZooMed)>
Do you agree that 10-20xtank capacity is a good ballpark for total turnover/hour? 
<Hmm, yes, in many cases>
If I run the Tetra-tec and the Filstar XP2 that's 600 gph right there plus 200 gph for the CPR skimmer. Do I have to worry about excess turbulence in a small tank like mine? 
<Not practically... with the organisms you list>
Or is more better as long as I don't blast away too hard directly on delicate inverts)?
<Ah, yes>
Sorry to be so verbose, but I hope you can find time to respond to some of these questions> Again, can't tell you how much I appreciate your efforts to help folks just starting this great hobby!!!!!!!
<Welcome to the marine side of our hobby. Chat with you soon. Bob Fenner>
Best wishes, Al

Re: Appreciation and questions
Dear Bob, Incredible! I never expected a response so soon!!!!Very grateful and a few follow-up ?'s:
Using tap h2o would be so much easier> When you say to remove
residual copper by passing it over carbon or Polyfilter, I can't quite
picture the mechanics of it. Could I just have a filter running with carbon
in the main tank as I add the newly mixed SW? 
<Yes, if no invertebrates are present... See below.> 
Or would I need to set up a separate filter in whatever container I use to mix the SW?
<This can be done. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm>
BTW, I assume I should heat the new h20 to the same temp before adding it, yes?
<Yes my friend>
Re: filters--Do you have any experience/recommendations on the
Emperor w/ the Biowheel, or these new, gimmicky Tetra Tecs?
<Both are about the same gimmicky... though do work>
Would a Biowheel produce excess nitrates like bioballs in a wet-dry? 
<Yes, by far>
Or if I just go with a canister is the hang-on redundant, since I'll also have the CPR and LR?
<To some extent, yes>
I just saw in a catalogue that the Eheim 2026 is about $100 more than the Filstar XP2...any experience with the latter? 
<A little... mostly "other-hand"... the Eheim is worth the difference in cost by far>
$100 won't kill me, but if the Filstar is almost equivalent, I'd rather spend it on livestock!
<I understand>
Re: powerheads--I'm glad to skip the wavemaker, but am confused
on names: Is "Powersweep" the correct brand name imported by your friend, or am I looking for a ZooMed brand powerhead?
<These are the same>
Also, was just studying your FAQs on lighting and kept seeing advice not to have anything between the pc tubes and the h20> is that
right?
<If can be done easily, yes>
What about corrosion, evaporation, jumpers, etc? How much would it
matter in a beginner system to have light passing thru a glass cover and/or
the acrylic panel that comes with the JBJ hood? 
<A handful or two percent>
It just intuitively seems safer to me....
How deep a sand bed would you advise, again given m y desire to
keep this starter system simple and not have to worry about layering grain
sizes,
<An inch or two in this size, type system... for your first system out>
whether the deep anaerobic layer gets disturbed or puts out too much
H2s (is that a downside to DSB?)
<Hydrogen sulfide? Yes>
Also, in a tank only 3 ft. long 4-6- inches of sand might be downright ugly?
<Agreed>
Thanks again. I really feel welcomed into a community, and since this is also my first venture into the internet, it's a doubly great experience!!
<You are indeed welcome. Do consider positing questions, statements on our chatforum (http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/) for other input as well. Bob Fenner>
Best wishes, Al

Good news (very local help)
Hi Mr. Fenner,
I have a question, and some great news. I just found out that my
brother-on-law has a really close friend who actually has his own business doing marine aquarium maintenance, and setup. 
<Amazing, what a small world, after all...>
I visited him at his house this morning, and saw the most incredible 500 gallon reef setup, that was the most visually stunning thing I've seen, ( I've seen a few other saltwater tanks, but none like this one!!) I know I had
bothered you with a bunch of emails on refugiums in the past two weeks,
and I sensed from the last one you were getting a bit fed up of my
questions, but I was a bit confused. Well this morning he also showed me
his entire filtration system in his basement just like I had been wanting to do with my setup. He showed me how to setup a refugium for the Macroalgae, and mangrove plants, a separate plenum sump, and everything else. He had a lot of stuff going on down there. From all that I learned today, my first plan of action will be to get a R/O device, and to get my new sumps together, along with reworking the circulation in the tank. What I want to ask you today is this. I have an incredible algae problem, (caused most likely from using plain premixed water with a commercial dechlorinator, and low water circulation). Now I obviously can't just change all the water at once, but will doing my regular water
 changes with the new purified water be just as good, (in other words, only a bit of good water will be added at a time), to drive out all the unwanted stuff in the water, and get the overall quality up to where it should be?
<Okay>
And last question: my tank is 125 gallons with a built in overflow making up one end,( not just a corner, because it is a see through display). The tank measures 60" long x 30" high x 16" deep. I know not the best for surface area, but that is what would fit in my space. The question is, with a narrow depth like mine, would it still be o.k. to build it up, and the length to slowly make it into a reef tank, (won't be see-through anymore, but will be much more pretty visually).
<Sure>
I know the problem will be getting the right light down to the bottom in a
vertical setup like this. Will it also be o.k. for the fish (more vertical area as opposed to horizontal). I will stay with fish that are on the small side, (presently have 3 tank raised ocellaris, 1 yellow tang, 1 six-lined wrasse, 2 neon gobies, and the usual shrimps, hermit crabs etc...) such as a flame angel, Firefish, auriga butterfly?
<Sounds fine>
Thanks in advance, Greg N., Montreal, Canada.
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Balancing the contents of my reef aquarium
Hi, I have:
55 gal tank
~80 lbs live rock Fiji, Florida
~40 lbs aragonite coral (3-4 mm avg size) 2 - 4" depth
2 power heads (1 blows under the cave system, the other blows over the cave system)
1 AquaClear 2000 - foam/carbon filtering
I plan on adding a Remora Pro (w/ Mag 3 drive pump) protein skimmer in another 2 weeks.
<A good idea>
1 175W MH 6500K bulb
1 30W blue actinic
Invertebrates:
2 crabs I've seen
6 - 10 little snails (2 -4 mm)
8 Astrea snails
4 Blue hermits
6 scarlet Hermits
3 brittle stars: 2 tigers, 1 green [Yes, I keep watching him!]
1 derasa clam ~ 6"
Corals:
Candy Cane Coral
Yellow Polyp
Assted Blue and Red mushrooms
Fish population:
1 maroon clown fish 1.5"
2 tangs (Scopus and Yellow) 2" and 3.5" respectively
1 female new guinea wrasse 3"
1 convict blenny or engineering goby (or whatever it is) 2"
<Pholodichthys>
1 4 striped damsel 1"
Nitrate ~0
Nitrite ~0
Nitrates: 40 -60
I am performing weekly ~8% water changes and my goal is to get this down to a once a month chore, Optimally to make the system self maintaining/sustaining (well, as close as I can get). My long term goal is a 75 gal tank with the same fish population (maybe in November).
I read your book "The conscientious Marine aquarist". I liked the book and I got some ideas for rounding out the aquarium. I thought I'd ask the general usefulness of the following creatures and their population levels with what I already have:
6 more scarlet hermits ( I added more cured rock [from an established tank] and I want a larger cleanup crew).
<Useful>
2 more derasa clams 2-4 inches (primarily to lower nitrates)
2 tree sponges (I have not really figured out any balancing benefit of adding sponges, except to filter the water some more)
<...>
2 sponge brittle stars (The advice I've seen is to get 1 per 10 gal water)
a cleaner goby (The fish look good and their population is already 1 too high. I am unsure if I can add him without the benefits outweighing the costs).
<Many signs of intelligence in your missal>
Also, if removal of the AquaClear 2000 is a good idea (slow down its usage by a 1/4 each week, after I add the protein skimmer), or should I just leave it in place as extra filtration? I found the following information and I wonder if I and creating a free nitrate problem by using it.
<I would leave it in place>
Since nitrifying bacteria form in direct proportion to the level of oxygen and ammonia, and the greater the rate of oxygenation,
<And? There's a few more important factors...>
the greater their concentration, thus free nitrate will be produced by the far more efficient external biological filters, as less ammonia is available to nitrifiers living in the Liverock and Live Sand beds. By removing the external media where nitrifiers reside, a greater shift of nitrifying bacterial populations will develop on the surface of the Liverock and in the Live sand bed, which in turn, promotes an increase in the population of facultative anaerobes,
and when external processes are eliminated, little if any free nitrate will be produced.
<No my friend, two semi-truths and a falsehood above>
Since nitrifiers also reside on other surfaces within the aquarium system, its not always possible to completely eliminate external nitrification. However, having a low level of nitrate (<5 ppm) is also essential for coralline algaes, as well as some filter feeders, so zero nitrate levels are not always desirable.
<They are never desirable in a biological system>
One caution when removing external aerobic media, (filter floss, bio-balls, ceramic pipes, etc.) is to remove only a small percentage at a time, because one has to allow the gradual shift of bacterial populations and activity, from external to internal,
<Unless there is "plenty" otherwise>
at some appropriate pace, and total removal at one time, might overwhelm the internal processes, and possibly lethal levels of ammonia might occur, before the internal aerobic processes can catch up. Since bacterial populations take some time to grow, the recommended removal rate is 1/4 weekly, over a 4 week period.
Well, thanks for the book, and if you have any other suggestions please add them, Jim
<Such a didactic universe... Read Carse's "Finite and Infinite Games"... you're a definite candidate. You will greatly benefit from perusing this book. Bob Fenner>

How slow should I go?
Mr. Fenner,
My name is Gabby Wilson and I have a few questions to ask of you. I have your book and have been reading from it, and your web-site each day for quite some time now.
<Hope you are finding them worthwhile>
About a year now I think. I guess you could say I am slightly obsessed with aquarium keeping. My mother has a 75g. aquarium, saltwater. I think in the two years she has had it she hasn't really cared for it much at all. More trouble then it was worth she said. "$3000.00 glass block that never can work" is her words exactly.
<Hmm, suspect we both disagree with this statement>
I have watched her neglect this tank for the year I have been doing my daily research. I know all of the wrongs she does.
<Do you offer to help?>
The tank is coved front to back with algae, the water is cloudy with it. SPG 1.026, 81degrees. I got a test kit and I am ashamed at what she has let this tanks water quality reach. The funny thing is that there is a Yellow Tang who is, from what I can see of him (and that is not much at all,) doing well.
<The tolerance of life on this planet can be remarkable>
I told my mom that if I could get the aquarium to look dazzling, stocked, and doing well, I get the tank. She agreed!!
About 70lbs live rock about 2inches of fine sand teeming with algae. A wet/dry filter (30g.) that looks like it came out of a swamp. A Skimmer (Berlin HO) that is the color of mud. All water levels off the chart! 380watt PC lighting on 13hrs a day. Just the one tang.
My plan of action is as follows, I wonder if you could add to it or give any suggestions? 
<Certainly>
1) Clean the entire skimmer free of well, whatever there might be.
<Do consider scrubbing most all residue away... then bleaching, rinsing per the following protocol: http://wetwebmedia.com/clncarta.htm>
2) clean out sump and take away bio-ball. 3) Clean algae from glass of the aquarium, LR (if they still live,) and do a 25%water change. 4) Clean all pumps and replace tubing. Lower SPG and buffer the PH from 7.8 to 8.0 (for now.) For this week I thought that would be enough with out killing MY very brave tang. I will do more in the weeks that follow, but I know from reading that things need to be done slowly.
<Yes>
Wow, I'm sorry this is such a long e-mail. I wanted to tell you more then anything how you have inspired me though your teachings. I thank you so very much.
<You are welcome my friend>
If you get the chance I would like to hear back from you. No rush at all!
Gabby
<Chat with you soon. Bob Fenner>

New Hobbyist
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Hello>
This email will be a little long, so please bear with me.
I'm new to the Marine Aquarium hobby, but I'm trying my best to read as much as I can about it. Trust me, I have bought almost all the books available about corals, aquariums, fish, invertebrate and others. There way too much information and products out there, so I'm a little confused.
<This is a "to be expected" condition>
To start out, I just purchased a 12 Gallon, reef ready aquarium from Flying
Fish Express. You can go their website to see the specifications of the tank
if it helps. 
<Used to help the folks there, and the ones before them>
I wanted to start out with a pair of Brazilian Orange Sea Horses, and because I like many other fish and invertebrate, I thought a separate small aquarium wouldn't be bad. But after I read some articles on your website (which is superb, congratulations), I realized it might not have been such a good idea. But I already paid for the my new aquarium, and am waiting for the live rocks to arrive to start curing them.
<I see>
Here's my plan for this aquarium:
-pre cured live rock
-live Fuji Sand
-a pair of sea horses
-2-3 red cleaning shrimps
<Just one for this size system>
-2 harlequin shrimps
-one blue eyed urchin
-2 hermit crabs
-2-3 snails
-2 sea stars (don't know which ones yet)
<Fromia spp.>
Is this too much for the little aquarium?
Can I add a branch type coral for the sea horses to hang on to? If not, what should I use instead?
<A skeleton of a gorgonian, perhaps a plastic mock-up of same, or a faux one of a marine macrophyte or true/vascular plant>
Do I need a heather for the aquarium (is not included) and if so which one?
<No, not necessary>
Will I need another pump for the set up? The aquarium comes with a small one.
<Perhaps... a very small submersible pump... Look to Aquarium Systems offerings here>
Anything else you can advise me so I'll succeed keeping this aquarium and not fail like many others listed on your web site? I'm very determined and take this new hobby of mine very seriously, so your advices will be really
appreciated.
<Hmm, much to discuss here...>
Now to the next big set of questions.
I want to buy a bigger aquarium to keep other species of fish and invertebrate. As I live in an apartment in New York, I don't want something too heavy, which could fall through my floor (I've heard that happened before), so I was thinking about buying either a 75 or a 100 gallon aquarium. Is this too heavy, or you think it will be OK?
<Ask your building engineer... the weight spread out should be okay in most buildings... think of ladies in high heels in terms of the weight per surface area...>
Now for the set up. I know I'll need the live rock and live or coral sand. Here's my other questions.
Think as if you were to buy this aquarium for yourself. Trust, I would even
pay you to come to my place to help me out setting it up, but I believe
that's not possible?
<No my friend>
So here it comes:
-Could you give a "specific" list of all you would include as:
1- Filters (make and type)
2- Skimmer (make and type)
3- Pumps (how many, make and type)
4- Heater (make and type)
5- Lighting (make, type, how many, watts, etc...)
6- Anything else?
<Not really... the fine folks on our chatforum are better versed and aware at "what's available" that is the most appropriate technology. I would query them: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/>
Please try to be as detailed as you can, as if you were making a list of what
you had to buy for your own new set up. I would really appreciate that. Now for the fish.
Here the type of fish and invertebrate I would like to keep:
-sea stars
-eel
-a cat shark (would the tank be too small?)
<In time yes>
-many red, coral banded and harlequin shrimp (I love those)
-goby or blennies
-corals
-sea urchins
-hermit crabs
-a lion fish
-may be one Miniata or a Coney grouper (or both)
-ocellaris clownfish (or will the small eel eat them?)
-saddled puffer
<Hmm, these animals cannot be housed together... the shrimp will be consumed by the shark, lion... other troubles...>
Can I have all these species housed together? If so, how many of each?
Again, detailed information will be greatly appreciated. Just think as your
out of town project. And please, don't hesitate to charge me for your
services if I'm asking too much and too detailed information. 
<What you ask, seek can be answered in time, going back and forth here... and more quickly on the chatforum>
This is a future project of mine (the larger aquarium I mean), and I want to do everything as perfectly, or at least on the best interest of the animals, as
I can. Please understand my position. If you would like to call me, feel
free to do so. My number is (snipped). My name is Marcela.
<Ah, a beautiful name. Many of my nieces bear this praenomen, and a dear friends infant daughter.>
Your help will be greatly appreciated. Have a great Holiday, if I don't hear
an answer from you by next week.
<You will my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
I look forward to hearing from you soon, Marcela