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Lighting and other questions I just purchased a 48 inch 260 watt lunar light from j&l aquatics in Vancouver 2 Coralife SP 65W 10000K Bulbs and 2 Coralife SP 65W Actinic Bulbs. for the other 24 inches I put a 130 watt power compact. will this light permit for all soft corals and maybe a derasa clam. << Soft corals yes, clam no. >> The tank is 18 high 72 and 24. I also was looking at purchasing a quiet one 4000 pump. I was told by J&l that this would be good for my tank. Is this a semi quiet pump and reliable? << Best thing to do here is to search online and find some people who have purchased them. Better to get many opinions and not just one. >> I was thinking of a Malu anemone but I don't think there will be enough light am I right? << I would probably avoid anemones, just to be safe. >> What's the best anemone for false Percula clowns? << Xenia, but if you really want an anemone I really like E. quadricolors even thought they aren't natural hosts. >> also how deep should the sand bed be? << How about four inches. >> I was just going to use 1 inch of Aragamax select will this be ok? << I would definitely go deeper, regardless of what sand you use. >> thanks for your valuable time ( I know I couldn't answer all these questions you guys get) << Blundell >> Marine Substrate I have a ? One of my friends gave me about 35lbs of crushed coral. Its about the size of your small finger tip. Do you recommend using this for my new tank? Its still in the box it came in. He said it cost him a bit. <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm and the Related FAQs (linked, in blue, at top) re. Bob Fenner> - Setting up a Fish Room - Bob, <Jason C here instead...> Let me begin by saying that I discovered your site this evening and, six hours later, can't believe what a wealth of information it has. I have had aquariums since I was 15. Currently, at the age of 40, I have a 125 fish only marine and a 75 fish only marine. I have also set up a 46 fish only marine for my wife, and a 29 freshwater for my 11 year old son. We all truly enjoy this hobby, and consider our fish to be pets as much as we do our dog and 3 cats. People ask me all the time if having so many aquariums is a lot of work. There was a time in my life when I thought of the routine maintenance of my aquariums as a chore. But after suffering a near total tank wipe out in my 125 (I lost some fish that I had had for over a decade), I realized that keeping fish is as big a responsibility as any other pet. Today, I actually enjoy the regular maintenance of my tanks, though it does take up a lot of my time. In my profession, I install home theater systems, among other things. In these rooms, I make it a point to hide as much of the equipment as possible to help create the illusion of being in a theater, or at least minimize the distractions while enjoying a movie. This got me to thinking about my fish hobby. Wouldn't it be great to have a room where I could view all my aquariums, without being exposed to any of the equipment that keeps these tanks going? You would enter the room and enjoy various tanks built flush into three walls of the room. And wouldn't it be great to have complete and total access to each of the tanks filtration and lighting systems? Around the room would be a larger room, sort of a behind the scenes set up. After pondering this idea for ... a few hours! ... I decided to turn half of my two car garage into a fish room. I plan on turning my 125 into a mini-reef, keeping the 75 as my delicate marine fish tank (I currently have a pair of Golden Butterfly Fish and a healthy, thriving Moorish Idol.) I would add another 75 as a freshwater tank (with my son's help) and a 300 gallon marine fish only as the centerpiece. Which brings me to my questions. Have you heard of individuals attempting this? <Sure, is not uncommon at all and really the best way to do things for larger displays. Very common in Germany.> If so, where on you web site could I find information, suggestions, etc? <I've not seen much mention of this on the web although there are books appearing on the scene more and more often that describe larger aquarium systems... some in more detail than others.> Am I a fool for attempting such an endeavor? <Not at all, but you will need to consider what effects the weather might have on such a setup... for instance if your garage we're not winterized and endured sub zero winters.> If you told me I was, would it change my mind? Probably not! Sorry for the length of the email. I look forward to your responses. Dana <Cheers, J -- > Marine set-up upgrade, upsizing Dear Bob, I would first like to say that you are very respected by a couple of marine biologists I have spoken to. >>Rich here, hope I can fill in well enough for Bob!>> I just happened upon your site thru a search engine and am so happy I did. I have had a small marine aquarium in the past with a few fish and no real equipment to speak of and did rather well with it. I am now going from the 20 gal only fish to trying to set up a 55 gal reef. The marine biologists I found helped me with a few suggestions on equipment but now that I have been reading your FAQ's for about 3 hours+ now I am so full of ideas I am really confused. I need to know what I really need for this set up. The more I read the more expense I am getting into and the more frustrated. >>It is very frustrating. Everyone thinks their way is the best and every equipment maker makes it seem that what they make is indispensable. Take your time, hang in there, and a plan that suits your needs will take shape.>> I have the new tank and a wet/dry trickle filter box with media but I really don't know what to get for my skimmer, lights and pumps. >>If you are going with a reef, most would suggest not using wet/dry media. It can become a 'nitrate factory'. While it does give a bunch of surface area for the right bacteria, it also allows lots of detritus to get trapped and rot in your water. The general feeling in the reefing world is that it is better to remove material that can rot than let it rot. As it turns out, whatever rock and sand you have should be plenty for biological filtration>> I have been told to go with a 400 watt metal halide light instead of the fluor to grow coral but I am beginning to think this is serious overkill for a 55 gal. >>400 watt may easily be overkill. I would suggest two 250 watt double ended bulb and pendants. I am a big fan of the pendants because they protect the bulb and you, but you could go with the single ended 250 watt bulbs just as well (175's would even be doable). I would go with the two lamps because in a 4 foot tank one lamp will not give you good coverage. Lighting is 'probably the biggest personal issue in reefing due to color preferences and critter choice. With 2 250's you should be able to keep just about any reef animal. If you are going with soft coral only, VHO or PC or T5 lights should be just fine, but normal Flour's are generally not a good idea because they are too weak and don't put out light in the right spectrum for coral growth. Please tell me a few types and model numbers of skimmers and pumps etc.. >>I like the EuroReef skimmers. I use several of them, and have never been unhappy with their performance. You could check their website or an online vendor for sizes and prices because they recently added new 'economy' models and changed pricing. Deltec and HSS also have a good rep as do the skimmers made by Myreefcreations. Pump wise, I need a little more to go one before I can recommend something - there are just too many choices.>> also I only found one diagram on your website for setting up all this under my stand and it doesn't show the pump to send it back to the tank and shows the skimmer after the bio balls and your articles say the skimmer needs to be first. >>I am not sure which diagram you are talking about, but I would guess the pump is internal to the sump rather than external.>> I guess what all this boils down to is I need a few ideas of products to narrow down my searching and only what I need to be efficient until I see if I can do a reef set up. Does your book show a diagram of how to set up all this equipment in detail? I really don't have any place in my area to get ideas of set up. Only one marine fish store for about 40 miles. Thanks so much for any help you can give me!! Kathy >>The book has some great information, so I would suggest picking it up. All of this can be very confusing at first, but don't worry, it will all begin to make sense! Rich>> New Reef Tank Do you have any recommendations on books to assist in the planning and setting up of a 75 gallon reef tank? <Yes. If you are very new to the hobby, please look into Mike Paletta's books (insert his name as author in Amazon.com or other book etailer site). If "ready to go" (i.e. with sufficient/comfortable background in freshwater) I'd read through John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"... Once you have at least this sort of exposure I would gather factual material from websites such as our WetWebMedia.com and bulletin boards like Reefs.org, ReefCentral... make a list of gear (tank, stand, lighting, filtration... AND livestock you'd like to consider further) and investigate your options thoroughly before purchasing/proceeding. You will be very glad you did this research as there is considerable "dis"information, some of it quite popular. Bob Fenner> A new 55 gal salt Hi Bob, I found out about your site through a news letter @ my LFS. Here's the overview of my tank. I set up my 55 w/ 60lbs of LS and 10 lbs of LR( all I could afford @ the time) plus about 50 gal of water from his shop. He told me to keep my current filter (aqua clear 300) and told me to use some bio stars and the sponge medium (new of course) along with a unit of chem-pure. He also told me to add some Bacter vital once a day for about a week. I also put in a SEIO M620 super flow pump. all that was started on Sat. on Sun I went back so he could check my pH but it was too low 7.8 so I started to put in some buffer. My cousin surprised me with 5 damsels (2 blue 2 zebra 1 domino) <Oh oh> well now there's 3 left they seem pretty happy. I've noticed some life in the rock and some kind of snail cruising on the sand. One thing though is the lighting, I have a very crude hood with two regular light bulbs at each end and a 30 gal light fixture in the middle with an actinic, I know I have to get a better system but for now that's what I have to work with. how awful is this what suggestions do you have for me on my current set up. <Not awful, and workable. Keep reading and enjoying your set-up and you'll progress as it matures. Bob Fenner> Setup Questions Hi, This is a very nice straight forward site, Thank You for coming to work today! I hope, I am asking questions in the right place. Experience in freshwater only. I am beginning and very slowly ;) I am partially confused, Information overload, everyone has their own way. I want to start simple, I am getting a 55 gallon tank, thinking of a Venturi protein skimmer? Filter Eheim 2213 canister? Power heads sound like a must have and I cannot for the life of me figure out what they are, where do they go, I have searched and searched. Best heater Idea would be appreciated? I will do live rock and live sand, I thought 3-4 inch bed Aragonite, is this O.K.? but the rock.. how much do I have to have for it to be effective? I am under the impression It must be cured?? I would like in the future -way out future to have anemone for clown fish, what exactly do I need for light? Am I missing anything? I do not wish to add fish till the tank cycles. Please help, Best regards >>>Greetings! Wow, lots to cover. Don't hesitate to drop me a line back if I miss anything. A canister filter is unnecessary. Your live rock and your sand is your filter. The rock can "cure", (which is just another word for letting all the dying organisms finish dying.) in your tank. A 3" sand bed, or even a 2" sand bed is fine. Powerheads are small, submersible pumps that go in your tank and help circulate the water. In a 55 gallon you may are may not need any additional circulation. I just depends on what you have in there. Are you planning on using a tank with overflows, and a sump? This is a tank that goes below the main display. Your protein skimmer, heater (Ebo Jager is the best brand) and return pump are all housed in the sump. If you do not choose to go this route, you can get a hang-on skimmer. Also, without a sump, and therefore a pump returning water to the main display, you will certainly need a powerhead or two. :)You can also use a return pump that is plumbed "dry", meaning it's not submersed in the sump. I like submersible pumps myself. How much rock? That's really up to you. You need enough to have adequate space to attach corals and such, but you don't need a "Wall" of live rock along the back of the tank from the sand all the way to the top as some reefers do. I much prefer a rock outcropping on one side, and a smaller outcropping on the opposite end. Kind of an asymmetrical look. For an anemone down the road - think metal halides in at least the 150 watt range. Any further questions - fire away. I will not be back around here until Mon however. Regards Jim<<< Tank setup Follow-up Thanks
Jim! For your response, and so quickly, you have provided me
with more knowledge in 1 e-mail than many weeks of surfing. Hats
off! I have found a tank, used. The most unfortunate thing
is it is freshwater, equipped with fish. Only like 4 of
them, rather large though. I can do freshwater easy enough
and I feel some what obligated to supply them with a home. However, I
really want the saltwater. And a little unsure if I am qualified or
informed enough at this point. Speaking of being informed...Only one
way to get there ;) (Sorry I digress) The
questions... I purchased a 72 gallon bow front,
All-Glass brand. It is very pretty, I could not resist. I get it today
so I am a little weak on exact info. Will I still be able to
do saltwater when I am ready? I believe it has 1 overflow (in the back
corner?). I have read bow front lighting may be
inadequate?? It has two full tank length fluorescents in
there now, I don't know the wattage. You said 150W
(range) metal halide, is that 2 or more for this size tank? .But if I
am not planning an elaborate reef system, would bow front lighting be
O.K.? For anemone? Secondly, a sump is a bucket
essentially under the tank (I have seen this, online) full of
water? I hate to sound crazy but does this create a foul
smell? It will be in my living room. Does the salt (salty air) corrode
the tank, or anything else in the room (hardwood floor), over
time. I'd like to see this tank last for ever
;) Btw- Some people mentioned the canister filter for only
occasional use? Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Joanne
>>>Hello again Joann, Your tank either has one overflow in the
center, or two - one in each corner. To make Entacmaea quadricolor
happy, (bubble tip anemone) the hardiest of the host anemones, you
should have at least a single 150W double ended HQI pendant over that
tank or a 250W single ended fixture. Or, PC's will work, T5's
will work, etc. It's not the TYPE of light so much, as the
intensity. Stock fixtures will not be enough. Ideally, if
you go MH, you should have two bulbs over that tank since it's
4' long. Some fixtures such as the Giesemann units have enough
spread to use a single bulb over 4'. Just put the anemone towards
the center and hope it stays there. :) Aquamedic makes nice 2x150W
fixtures. If you're the do it your self type, you can make your own
metal halide fixtures, but if you go this route I recommend the single
ended, or "mogul" bulbs. They're easier to deal with if
you're making the thing yourself. You can go to www.hellolights.com
and find all the parts you need to make your own lights. It's not
how elaborate a system is that dictates the lighting needs, but the
needs of the critters within. E. quads are medium light anemones
really, but again, stock fixtures will not do the job.
A sump is just another tank under the display. No, it
doesn't smell badly, nor does it cause any problems to your
flooring as long as you avoid leaks and major spillage. The water from
the display constantly flows through it - it's just an extension of
your display tank really. Having a saltwater tank of normal proportions
does not cause any adverse effect to your home or belongings within. :)
You can use a canister filter occasionally to
"polish" the water by filling with carbon. I've never
seen a need for it personally. Jim<<< Tank Questions I think I now have my stocking list worked out but now I have some questions about my tank. I just got $2000 that I didn't expect to have. Nice surprise. <Definitely and great timing with the set up of a tank as well.> Well I would like to upgrade some components in my tank and would like to know what you think is the best purchase. <I have to tell you if I had the money the thing I would purchase for my tank is a killer skimmer.> The tank is currently not setup. My plan is to eventually turn this tank into a reef tank with Anemone, Soft coral, polyps and mushrooms. I have to research some more before moving into this. I have a 65g tank that currently has an overflow box/wet dry filter/generic protein skimmer/older pump/standard lighting for two 36" fluorescent lights and a 24" light, and no live rock. I will definitely be purchasing 80-100lbs of live rock. I was considering getting two different kinds Fiji and Tonga to add variety or should I just stick to one type.<I've gotten to the point where I like to stay with types, all Fiji, all Marshall all gulf you know?> I was also going to get some live sand to go in the tank. Would you recommend a DSB. If not how deep should it be. <I like deep sand beds and there's a lot of discussion on them, let me recommend you take a look at Dr. Ron Shimek discussion on Reef Central, the DSB discussion on www.fragexchange.com and the discussion on www.reeffrontiers.com. These three offer various discussions on a deep sand bed but basically it comes down to personal choice and what you want to accomplish with one.> I want to upgrade my skimmer to a AquaC EV180. (Should I get the Ozone/Calcium reactor fitting) <It would prepare you for future changes to your tank if you think that you might want to go sps eventually?> I was considering changing the wet dry for a standard 20-50g tank for a sump and this is wear I'm really confused. I don't understand how to move the water around through all these components. Do I need anything in the tank if the heater, Protein skimmer and pump are all going to be in the tank with live rock. <Usually if you run an empty sump that's where you put the heater, protein skimmer and pump.> Do I just run the tube to the tank from the over flow and let it pour over the rock or does it need to be more sophisticated. If I buy a new pump rated at 600-900 gph do I need to get a new overflow box rated for this or will it keep up. <They generally rate them for a reason, sometimes the smaller ones just cannot keep up.> From the pump to the display tank do I just put the tube in the tank with a return valve. <Yes if you mean return back to the tank.> Should I just not consider this and stick with the wet/dry and remove the bio balls and replace with live rock. Would I still need a new overflow box. <Yes.> The pump I'm considering is a PAN World 100PX. <Never heard of it sorry> For lighting I was think a PFO acrolight setup w/150W MH and 2 75w actinic VHO bulbs. Is this enough light for what I'm considering or should I go with some more watts. <Its fine for mushrooms but if you want to go up to more difficult corals it won't go up with you.> Sorry this is so long but I don't think I'll have the opportunity to spend this much money on my tank for awhile so I want to do it right. If you see any problems or things I could do better please let me know. You are the experts. <I think we are all just trying to share our experiences.> Also if I need plumbing parts for this could you tell me what would be best. <Most of your parts are going to depend on your pump sizes.> I researched this information under the FAQ for DIY sumps and tanks but I couldn't find the info I was looking for. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I've also purchase Bob and Anthony's new book along with Michael Paletta's book. I've already got CMA.<Very nice choices on the books, You might also look at the John Tullock book because it has an excellent section on biotypes.> Thanks for all the info. <Good luck Adam and let me know how it goes, MacL> Adam New tank set up. 9/28/04 Dear WWM crew, Very nice and helpful website. Thank you. A lot of questions. <Glad you have benefited. Ask away!> I am new to the hobby and in the process of planning my first tank: 75g with a 20-30g sump. Tank will have LR & LS, fish and invertebrates (though not planning on hard corals or clams, though it is hard to tell the future). I am thinking of using the Oceanic glass tank and their below the tank sump system. 1. Is the sump by Oceanic a good choice or should I do something else? <An outstanding choice, but definitely the "Cadillac". A plain all-glass aquarium or even a plastic storage container is a much more economical choice, but definitely not as sexy.> 2.Is the Aqua C EV 120 protein skimmer a good choice? Or is it better to get a 180? Will it fit into the sump? <Aqua-C generally makes fairly good recommendations for their skimmers, I would still err on the large side, but not as much as other manufacturers.> 3.Is the Iwaki MD70RLT (1500 gph) a good choice? Is it too powerful and if so how would I know? <Probably a good choice to run both the tank and the skimmer, but this is a lot of pump! Iwaki gets the prize in this hobby for actually being conservative in their ratings.> 4.I am thinking of power compact lights (T5) in an ICE Cap Ballast ; 3- 4 96 watt bulbs. Adequate or too much? <Way more than is necessary if you don't plan on corals. In this case, save money and electricity and use standard output lamps.> 5.I read with intersect in Anthony Calfo article about the idea of having the return water to the tank go through a single pipe circling the tank for circulation. Could you please give me a bit more detail (a diagram) of how that works, type of type (size), # of outlets etc. <There are a tremendous number of variables here. Do try to find the article again for guidelines. A very rough rule of thumb would be to push at least 200gph through each 1/2" PVC outlet.> I have read Mr. Fenner's book and enjoyed it very much. I look forward to reading the Reef Invertebrates book. Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions. Chris <Bob and Anthony will appreciate your kind words. Best Regards! AdamC.> Impatient marine aquarist with levitating tank powers Hi I am setting up a 155 all glass aquarium with a sump with miracle mud and Caulerpa, with its light and a skimmer, the lights are 2 175 MH and 2 40 watt super actinic hood 4 foot long. <And the lighting on the sump/refugium?> Should I set every thing up and then build the stand around it they are installing it with a metal custom made stand and I have to cover with wood but I want to build it inside a furniture should I first have everything done and then call them to set it up? <If it won't be a lot of trouble to assemble/place the wood fascia around the functional stand, I would go ahead and set up the tank... the longer it's running, the more stable it will be> The water is already cycled they sell it cycled so I just have to wait couple days till its sets to introduce fish right? <Better for a week or more to go by... and to test the water to determine if it is actually cycling> I am setting up a mini reef How long do I have to wait to start stocking? <Are you using live rock? Likely a month to two months should go by without placing fishes, invertebrates... your test kits will help you know when this time is nigh> I want to have sponges, I've been diving down here in the Atlantic side of Panama In Portobelo Ima from here and iv seen incredible things down there <Neat!> My question is can you have the sponges spread around the rocks in a tank also? <Yes... though they are not all equally easy to collect, acclimate, keep going... please read over re this group on www.WetWebMedia.com> They look as if they covered the rock how can you accomplish this this gives a lot of colors? <Either by careful collection and moving of the rock itself (w/o exposing it to air), or waiting a period of several months to years for it to populate rock in your system> I would like to do this. How can I capture them? <Please see WWM re> I also want to add some polyps (featherdusters) and some anemones and soft corals and maybe a brain can you do this? <Yes, can be done> I basically want to replicate an Atlantic reef. In fishes I would like to have Squirrelfishes that you see a lot down there and some surgeons, and maybe an angel and butterflies, royal Gramma and some damsels can these all live together? <Not a large angel in this size system... but some of the dwarf species or even a Rock Beauty might go> and inverts maybe a sea star and some shrimp and cleaners. Can you give me some ideas of how to capture my own fish and an idea of how to stock my tank how many fish? <This is posted on WWM, please read there> I had a 75 gallon tank till a month ago that it started leaking so I got my money back and bought this new tank so I have some Idea of maintaining it I only had live rock and some fishes was starting to convert into mini reef. I been reading a lot Mr. Fenner's book that I have and your website and talked to some of you by mail, but want your help with my new tank. <Sounds like a very exciting adventure. I have collected marines and helped set-up biotopic presentations in several places in the world. Tremendous fun and learning experiences. Bob Fenner> Beginner setup questions Hi...remember me...It's ok if you can't. In the previous I ask, you said "Lighting is the big question, it will make a difference in what you can keep and what temperature you will have." << I remember saying that. Actually I say it often. >> I plan to use 2 fluorescent light(1 bright, 1 blue, 40watt each) as the length of the light and my aquarium are the same (both 48 in.). << That is not much light at all. >> I also plan to use a wooden hood on that aquarium which I think when I setup this reef aquarium, it will look nice. I understand that if I use that, the temperature will rise hot air will be trapped in the hood. So, I plan to cut a hole behind the hood and install a fan to suck out the air (like the idea of a computer's cooling fan which is placed in the casing). << Yes, but have the fan blow in, pushing new air into the canopy and not pulling it out. If you are using standard 40 watt fluorescent lights, I'd use at least six of them. >> I think it will be cooler, but I don't know how cool it will be. Is this ok...? << Yes, those lights don't give off much heat, especially when compared to metal halides. >> About filtering, I've seen filter which the locals called it "the overflow system". They drilled a hole at the aquarium. The water in the main aquarium will overflow out of the aquarium through that hole, which leads to another aquarium (which is the filter) that are separated into 3, 4 or 5 section. << Great way to go. Try searching for "Sump" or "Refugium" as that is what we typically them. >> The filter medium are bio-ball (see pic below), bio-ring (see pic below) and several types of filter wool. in the final compartment, the water will be pumped back to the main aquarium. Some just use canister filter, hang on filter (small aquarium). << I would scratch all those ideas and go with live rock and macro algae in those compartments. It will really help with natural filtration. >> I plan to use the overflow system and the canister filter. I was thinking, will it be ok if I connect the input tube of the canister filter to a undergravel filter. I'll put in 20kg of life rocks (just like you recommend me) and around 3in. thick of coral sand. So, what proper maintenance or other things I should be aware of. I heard about don't do water change as changing the water might cause the water to be unstable. << Completely false. I think a 10% to 25% water change every few weeks is a good idea. It really can't hurt as long as it is mixed well. >> I also heard about not moving the life rocks once it's settled in the aquarium. It's that true? << No, not true at all. Lots of people are always moving their rocks around. I think it looks better stable, but moving them isn't bad. >> Thanks...! (sorry to ask such a long question) << Again I would have to recommend some serious reading. Please look for Conscientious Aquarist and Natural Reef Aquariums as those two books can be of great help. >> << Blundell >> Planning to set up a saltwater aquarium Hello Crew!! << Blundell tonight. >> Let me apologize in advance for the length if this email. I have been doing much research on a new tank setup (so far 6 months and counting) and really need some advice or just some feedback as to whether I am on the right track with my proposed setup or if I need to rethink a few things. I'd much rather plan ahead and do the research before buying anything that dooms me to failure. << We all think that way. But I for one am not strong willed enough to do it. >> I have been reading the information on WWM for the last 6 months and have learned a great deal. I would just like some verification of my current plan, and any pitfalls I may be getting myself into. My budget is small and I am saving up to get the best components I can, however, the tank is already bought and in use as fresh water. That component can not change. Okay, that said, earlier this year I bought a pre-drilled All-Glass 55 gallon aquarium with a mega-flow overflow (I believe this handles approx. 600 GPH). The intention here was to use it for a while as fresh water (I had in mind discus, but later changed to Angels (5), Gouramis (3), Tetras (6), Mollies (2), Pictus Cats (2), Cory Cats (2), and a Pleco (1). I know this is a bit crowded but I have had the tank set up for 6 months with no problems, (Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20 ppm, PH 8.1 (we have natural High PH where I am at and the fish stores also stock in this higher PH). I have an Emperor 400 for mechanical and biological filtration and a home made wet/dry in a 10 gallon sump to handle biological filtration (2 gals of bioballs). This combination seems to be working good. I do 10% water changes every 2 weeks and change filter media every 4 weeks, alternating between the emperor and my carbon poly pads in the wet/dry. I have had many fresh water tanks in the past and have had generally good success with little loss in fish. This set-up seems to be working well and is relatively low maintenance. In the next 2 years or so, I am looking to make the plunge into Saltwater and would like to know your thoughts on my proposed setup. << Saltwater filtration is all about the live rock. In a 55 gal tank you will want one box of rock (45 pounds) which will be costly, but necessary. >> First of all, the tank would remain the same, 55 gal with a single mega-flow overflow. I would increase the size of the sump to 30 or 40 gallons, the biggest I can fit in the cabinet. I will overflow the main tank into a skimmer area of the sump large enough for a Euro-Reef skimmer (sized for a 75 gallon tank) and then flow into a large section for a refugium type media (DSB, LR, Macro Algae), and finally flow into the return pump area (currently a Surge submersible pump rated at about 600 GPH at 4 feet head). I am thinking of using a Sterilite box for the refugium area to allow the majority of the flow to go around the refugium so as not to disturb the contents too much. I would put 1 200 watt heater in the sump and 1 200 watt heater hidden in the main display. I would do this in case I need to turn off the sump temporarily and keep the display tank up and running with a power filter. Lighting for the refugium would be NO Florescent to start with on 24 hrs. Lighting for the main tank would be 4-96 watt PC (2 full spectrum, 2 actinic) for a total of 384 watts. << Not bad. I wouldn't light the sump 24hrs and you may want to look into a cheap home depot compact fixture. >>I haven't decided if I want to keep the Emperor 400 or not. Keeping the Emperor 400 will cause problems with my plans for a circulation manifold at the top of the tank. << No, they are fine and good to have. >> I would like to control the flow through 4 nozzles in roughly 4 upper corners of the tank. Here is what I want to keep in the display. I want to try a mini reef tank of sorts. 70 - 90 lbs live rook << Excellent. >> 150 lbs live sand (not sure if this is too much or not enough) << That's a lot of sand. I don't think you'll need that much. >> 2 Ocellaris Clownfish 1 Yellow Watchman Goby 1 Scott's Velvet Wrasse or Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse, or Exquisite Wrasse 1 Purple Firefish Goby 1 Flame Hawkfish (debating on this one since it may eat inverts) 1 Coral Beauty Pigmy Angel (can I have this with the above fish?) Inverts (clean up crews) Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs, Turbo Snails, Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crabs, Dwarf Zebra Hermit Crabs, Abalone Snails, Red Foot Moon Snail Fancy Serpent Sea Star (tiger stripes), Sea Cucumber (tiger tail), Burgundy Sea Star. Corals (6 to 12 months after tank has been established) Mushrooms, Leathers, Starburst Polyp Corals Anemone (for Ocellaris Clownish) Long Tentacle Anemone << Well here is a change. Those corals should come very soon. Only a couple weeks after the tank is up. The fish need to wait several months. >> I would create small caves and hiding spaces with the live rock while trying to leave enough swim room for the angel and wrasse. Am I trying to bite off too much with this setup in this size of a tank? Of the fish I am considering, would they all work together or are there some I should take off my list? << Looks fine. >> I still need to do more research and will be getting the following books soon, Conscientious Marine Aquarist, The New Marine Aquarium, and Reef Invertebrates. Are there others I should have to aid in my search for an interesting and colorful reef setup? << So many books I don't know where to start. I'm a fan of the Julian Sprung books, check them out. >> Your help in pointing me in the right directions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Jeff Smith << Also, check for a local aquarium club that can be of assistance. Blundell >> Instruction manuals Hi, <Howdy Tad, MacL here> Thanks for the past, present, and future advice. <I'll do my best> You've saved me and others lots of time and money. Speaking of money... Being the cheapskate my wife accuses me of, I have either purchased my gear used or otherwise (eBay). <Nothing wrong with that > 75gal tank & stand, Amiracle Mudd Filter, (any opinions on these?),<Never used one sorry> Excalibur Hang-On. I am in the process of setting up the tank with a DSB of 3" fine aragonite covered with 1" of CaribSea Live sand and 65lbs of live rock. I also have 6 x 55w CF in the canopy. 4 10000k, 2 50/50 actinic. My question is this. Do you know of any websites or retailers that can supply us (cheapskates) with instruction manuals from various brands? <I would suggest posting on any or all of the websites that you know of and ask people if they have an for them. You'd be amazed what people keep.> Amiracle seems to have disappeared off the planet, and the Excalibur people stopped talking to me when they found out I bought the skimmer used. My skimmer came with a broken Rio pump (Good luck from all I've heard about them), so I purchased a Maxi-jet 1200 to use. When I hooked up the Maxi-jet I got hardly any bubbles in the skimmer body at all, and the venturi air inlet started spitting water out. Is there another adapter I need to use the Maxi-jet? <I believe you have a balance problem, the powerhead may be too strong.> Or do I have it hooked up wrong? Thanks again, Free advice from you guys is what allows us financially challenged people to enjoy this hobby as well. <I hope this helped Tad, MacL> Tad 46 Gal. Bow front Setup I have been reading a plethora of your website and The New Marine Aquarium by Paletta. Both are astronomical in information, detail and ease of understanding; so thanks to you both... I plan on setting up a 46 gallon bow front with the following equipment (keep in mind this is a first for me regarding a marine setup.) - DIY PVC water return manifold from sump w/flexible ball-socket joint tubing - 25 lbs. of LR. (to start) - 2" of reef sand w/ 1" of live sand (aragonite?) - CPR CS50 overflow box (300 gph) - Eheim Hang-on Filter Liberty 2042 (200 gph) - AquaC Urchin Skimmer w/Maxi-Jet 1200 (in-sump) - Pro-Heat 200w Heater (in sump) - 10 gallon aquarium for a sump (it's the only size that will fit underneath) - 3/4" PVC return to sump draining into a filter pad - 1" PVC return to tank What size/brand pumps do you recommend for return? Am I missing anything else crucial?? I want to upgrade my 36" standard 2 bulb fluorescent lighting in the future but my financial resources will be drained at this point of setting up. For contents in the tank, I would like to own 2 clownfish, 1 purple tang, and/or any other suggestions you may have. In the future, I would also enjoy having some corals, mushrooms, etc. I have also been recommended to purchase GARF's Grunge and/or cleaner packages. Thanks in advance for your assistance and advice. Michael Oteri ***Hey Michael, We're talking submersible pumps here? Then I would go with a Mag. Off the top of my head I can't give you a specific model, but look at the flow rates of the different models. I think maybe a Mag 9 or so would be appropriate for your tank. I recommend getting a pump that is a little more powerful than you think you'll need, and throttling it down if need be with a ball valve in the return line. You do not need the Eheim filter, but it won't hurt. :) Aragonite will work just fine for your setup. I would steer clear of GARF for reasons beyond what I have time to type here. There are other, better places to purchase starter kits from. They are EXPENSIVE though for what you get. I recommend just getting some grunge from the bottom of the live rock bin at your LFS. You can't house a tang in a tank that small, even the smaller varieties - just not enough space. 75 gallons is the minimum tank size even for the smaller Zebrasoma species. Good fish for that tank are Chromis damsels, as well as some of the other smaller, Chrysiptera damsels. The orchid Dottyback (P. fridmani) is a GREAT marine fish. Basslets, grammas, small wrasses such as a six line all make great fish or a tank that size. The pygmy angel (C. argi) or the flame back angel (C. acanthops) are also good candidates if added last. Stay away from anything that gets larger than 4", especially if they are active fish. Cheers Jim*** 46 Gal. Bow front Setup Thank you very much for the prompt reply. My follow-up question is this; if you don't mind. The maxi-jet 1200 attached to the urchin skimmer is approx. 295 gph. Is this the rating that I should look at matching the Mag pump too? Also, the pipe draining from the overflow box is 3/4". Should the return from the sump be larger, smaller or the same? Michael Oteri >>>Hello again Michael, The flow rate of your skimmer and the flow rate of your return pump are unrelated. As I said I'm not sure off the top of my head which model exactly would be appropriate for you, you'll have to look into them a bit. A 3/4 return line is plenty. Cheers Jim<<< Total Confusion... in a marine set-up... one
step... at... a... time Bob, <Rich> I have read numerous
articles and responses from you and I really need your
advice. <Okay> I have a 7 mo old 210 Gallon All Glass aquarium.
My goal is for a gorgeous reef with some fish. The retailer
I used has since gone out of business and I feel Lost.
First of all he filled my 2 overflows with bioballs to cut the
noise down and now I find that all Glass has made a mega
flow kit to do the same. <You might consider going with this new
kit> The flow in my tank is horrible. I don't know
how to measure it but my return make very little action in
my tank. <There are a few ways to calculate, measure the flow... the
easiest and most accurate may be using a bucket/container of a known
volume and using a time-measuring device to see how many seconds it
takes to fill... calculate how many gallons this might be per
hour...> I have added 2 Maxi 1200 but it does not seem
to help. I am using an Amp Master 2100. I also have a
ecosystem 3616 (the big unit) with MM. I can seem to get rid
of the red slime algae. I have very poor flow. <Likely related
events, eh?> I had razor Caulerpa that died and I now
have Chaeto (spaghetti) that is not growing) My phosphates
keep rising even though I am using nitrate remover (very
expensive $80 shot) from tropic Marin. I recently was told
to use the two little fishes product with a reactor. (I have
an old fluidized bed from rainbow in my garage. <This will not
likely help> My plumbing is a nightmare. It goes from 1
1/2 to many elbows to 3/4. It splits and 1 side goes right
to the return while the other goes thru a 25 watt AQUA UV
then to the other return. <Time to have someone come on out and take
a look it sounds like... Are you familiar with a marine club in your
area? Have you tried the various marine aquarium BBs on the net in
attempts to locate a "guru" friend who will help you? This is
strongly recommended> I have 2 400watt MH from
Hamilton 10,000k. The center of my tank looks darker. <It
may well be... this is likely more a matter of aesthetic concern than
functional... you could move the placement of the MHs... higher,
closer... or add another light...> I have 2 blue actinic as well.
My temp hovers between 80-83. I have no chiller as of yet.
<Doesn't sound necessary to me> I am confused what
size and which to buy. It must either go under cabinet or
next to unit. <... If it were my system and the temp.s were about
what you state, I would not buy, use a chiller... if the temp. is much
higher than mid 80's on a given day or two, you can float a frozen
milk container of water or even add a block of ice to this size
system... in your sump> I was told Arctica might be best
for me. My fans in the hood are Radio shack, and I was
told the other day to watch out for fires. <If installed
properly, this is not a real possibility> I have 325lb live rock. I
love this hobby. Fish all doing well as are easy to keep corals. I
don't know whether to get rid of MM and just use sand.
Skimmer- Leaning toward Aqua C, Calcium reactor?
<Reactors are very worthwhile, but I urge you to
"practice" with supplements for a while... months to a few
years... learn to use test kits, come to understandings of what the
parameters are, their meaning/interactions> I would eventually like
to keep clams. <A very nice choice> If you could guide my with
equip, plumbing etc, I could keep from pulling my hair out.
Rich <Am glad to help... please do consider reaching out locally to
have a more-experience reefer come and check out your system at this
point/junction... and not panic, focus on buying things... You and your
system will be fine with some more serious contemplation, involvement.
Bob Fenner> OEM Manuals - Hi, Thanks for the past, present, and future advice. You've saved me and others lots of time and money. Speaking of money... Being the cheapskate my wife accuses me of, I have either purchased my gear used or otherwise (eBay). 75gal tank & stand, Amiracle Mudd Filter, (any opinions on these?), Excalibur Hang-On. I am in the process of setting up the tank with a DSB of 3" fine aragonite covered with 1" of CaribSea Live sand and 65lbs of live rock. I also have 6 x 55w CF in the canopy. 4 10000k, 2 50/50 actinic. My question is this. Do you know of any websites or retailers that can supply us (cheapskates) with instruction manuals from various brands? <Best bet is to contact the manufacturer or insist on getting one with the used item you purchase - if the owner can't supply one, don't purchase it.> Amiracle seems to have disappeared off the planet, and the Excalibur people stopped talking to me when they found out I bought the skimmer used. My skimmer came with a broken Rio pump (Good luck from all I've heard about them), so I purchased a Maxi-jet 1200 to use. When I hooked up the Maxi-jet I got hardly any bubbles in the skimmer body at all, and the venturi air inlet started spitting water out. Is there another adapter I need to use the Maxi-jet? <I'm only familiar with the one supplied with this pump.> Or do I have it hooked up wrong? <Could be too low in the water column - that venturi need to be pretty close to the surface of the water to draw in air.> Thanks again, Free advice from you guys is what allows us financially challenged people to enjoy this hobby as well. Tad <Cheers, J -- > New marine set-up Hello guys and thanks for reading my email.<No problem! Sorry it took a few days! Ryan with you> ..I was wondering what it would take to have one of you take a look at my system and critique it for me... $$$$ or beer and bbq whatever....please consider it if you live in the NY Metro area.<California here...>..... Just running saltwater through the system right now and would like to have a professionals opinion before I colonize the tank.....it is a 120 gal tank with 65 gal sump and 30 gal. refugium/prop tank (dual 65 watt CSL PC).... all the bells and whistles...Please seriously consider it and let me know....Anthony Pastorelli NYC Fireman...Bayside, Queens, NY. <I'd love to, but I'm on the other side of the country! Perhaps another wetwebber will see this and contact you.> Euroreef CS8-3 Skimmer, MRC-1 Ca Reactor and Milwaukee pH Controller, Cool Touch Lights 2- 175 watt 10 K Ushio MH, 4 110 watt VHO Uri Actinic, Dual 1 1/2" inch Dursos, Dual BlueLine 200 PS (Iwaki 70 Equiv)1650 gph each, Four - 3/4 " returns, Won Bros. 500 watt titanium heater and Pacific Coast 1/4 HP chiller controlled by Medusa dual stage 3 digit controller, Auto top off gravity fed via Life reef float switch and solenoid from 10 gal. storage container which is itself topped off via Kent marine float switch from a 6 stage ro/di unit. Hanna pH monitor, Pinpoint salinity monitor, 10 gal. QT/Hosp tank , Visi-Therm 100 watt heater, Aquaclear 50 Filter (H.O.B), Cool works ice probe, Mini jet powerhead, JBJ 36 watt 10 K PC, I am ready to order rock and sand however I have a serious problem with micro bubbles due to the flow, I have written about this to you before and received excellent critiques on the situation, however Before I risk the lives of any corals I would greatly appreciate a professionals opinion in person on the situation...Please consider any fees that may apply ..Hope to hear back soon...Thank You <I think you'll work the kinks out! Every system is an individual...finesse it to where you like it! Show me some pics Anthony! Ryan> Starting Out The Natural Way (New Tank Setup) Hello WWM Crew, <Hey there! Scott F. here for you today> And thanks for giving us amateurs personal access to such a great group of experts. <Hey, we are all "amateurs". Interested hobbyists who are passionate about what we do...> I am currently planning my first reef tank, which will be a 29G deal and will house a few fish and inverts and some easier-to-keep corals (I'm thinking soft and LPS). <A nice way to start, IMO> I appreciate WWM's natural approach to reefkeeping, and I purchased Reef Invertebrates and am reading it right now in research for my tank. <An excellent source!> I am planning on using a hang-on-back style refugium (space limitations), and I have decided not to use a Deep Sand Bed in my display because of the extra display space that it will take up. However, I would still like to incorporate a DSB. My question, which I have not been able to answer in the FAQs or the book, is this: Would it be better to put the DSB in the (limited) space of the refugium, or should I go for the larger volume and place it in the sump? <I'd go for it in the sump, myself> Reef Invertebrates mentions that unlit sand beds in the sump are often sources of increased biodiversity, which is definitely a good thing. <Absolutely> Does a DSB require lighting to develop the top-layer aerobic bacteria? <No light is necessary, IMO> My refugium will likely house some Chaetomorpha, and I want to culture microcrustaceans with an emphasis on supplementing my fish and/or corals' diet. <Chaetomorpha is an excellent export mechanism, as well as a great "substrate" for cultivating mysis and copepods; important supplemental food sources for your system> If it helps, I will have a Percula clown, and I'm thinking about a Coral Beauty angel and some type of goby. <That's about all the fishes that you should shot for in this sized system, in my opinion> Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! Dave McNeely <We're happy to be here for you, Dave. Do make use of the many resources here on the WWM site, and feel free to drop us a line any time we may be of service! Regards, Scott F> New Tank Questions <Hi, MikeD here> I recently setup a 46 gal. tank with 50 lbs. of live rock, 20 lbs. of live sand with an emperor 400.<OK> The tank is already cycled with fishes<How many and what kind? In a 46 gal. tank you need to keep fish at a minimum if you're going to be keeping many kinds of corals, deciding early on whether you want fish and LR or a reef tank, as there's a vast difference between the two.>. I'm planning on buying a remora skimmer soon.<OK. this is often touted as a better than average brand, at least in some models.> Can I start adding corals with this setup or do I still need a wet-dry filter?<that, my friend, is a question that needs a LOT more clarification before anything approaching an intelligent answer can be given. "Corals" is a catch all of animals ranging from extremely delicate to fairly tough, and, depending upon the types you're planning on trying to keep may require special lighting, calcium drips and many other things, along with a very light fish load (as in 2-3 small ones). The lighting and feeding restrictions for many corals preclude them as being good homes for MANY species of fish.> Ecoaqualizer 8/19/04 I think this product has been on the market long enough for a reaction from anyone who has used this product. I would love to use it on my 300 reef but before I make the investment, (Ecoaqualizer is not cheap) I really would like to get your opinion. <Hmmmm... my suggestion for most products is to read the information provided by the manufacturer. The products ingredients or function should be described in plain, clear language and the concept behind the product should make sense. Also, if the claims made sound too good to be true or if a product claims to have benefits that have not even been discovered yet, you should be highly suspicious. Be especially wary of pseudoscientific mumbo-jumbo like "aligns the water molecules". Good luck with your decision, and consider using one of the discussion forums to search for folks opinions on this particular product. Best Regards. Adam> Setting up a 60 gal hex. I have started a new reef tank this will be my first one and want to do it right the first time. I have had success with fish only tanks in the past so I am some what familiar with the basics (ph, nitrates etc.) but would like some advise on my set up for a reef tank. I have a 60gal hex << That is a very difficult tank to use for a reef system. Odd dimensions. >>, SeaClone protein skimmer for 150gal, treated 300 filter with built in heater. I have only placed live sand and rock in it and am waiting until the rock cures and the tank stabilizes. My tank came with a hood that has 3 15watt t8 lamps two of which I have replaced with 50/50 and 10k lamps the third I removed and replaced with a 70 MH medium or mogul base lamp. Not sure of Kelvin rating? << Getting a halide on there is a good idea. >> Also I have a Rio 2100 but have recently ordered 4 Rio 600s to be able to direct flow better. I also ordered a 5pc moon led light. I would like to keep some clowns maybe some zoanthids and a clean up crew? Any advise would be appreciated. << Well that sounds good. I would recommend buying as much live rock as you can, and giving it some time to really get the environment growing. >> Thank you Jeff << Blundell >> Mud or sand, rock or balls, Gracilaria or Caulerpa Hello, <Hi Kevin, Nice to meet you, MacL here with you tonight> I have been reading for 2 days now, though I know it's not long, I have learned a lot but am getting lost. <Its easy to do, lets try to help you through it.> I have a 65 gal reef tank with soft corals and polyps. I have 1.5 to 3 inches of live sand and about 60# of live rock. 240 watts of 03 and 10K. This is a setup from a 3 year old 30gal tank I transferred to my 65 4 weeks ago. I am leaving the brown diatom stage entering the green algae stage (very minimal) we are at 8.1 78 degrees phosphate 0.0 ammonia 0.1 nitrate 0.1 nitrate 5 ppm calcium 560 iodide is .015 and 0.0 on iron I am setting up a refugium with a converted 15 gal all glass tank. I have incorporated my CPR Bak Pak into the first chambers where my display tank enters my refugium. Bioballs yes or no? <Bioballs can be heavy in nitrates but can also provide big amounts of oxygen. Most people that do keep them realize the price they pay in nitrates and have Caulerpas or some type of animal they can export to remove wastes the animals pick up. For instance I'm sure you've heard of people using Caulerpa for that.> I was going to have my water come in over the submerged balls for de gasification.... part of the water would be skimmed and enter the refugium at the second chamber (baffle). I have 3 28 watt Plant (PL/AQ) light fixtures mounted 3" above the tank top (54 watts). Should I opt for a better light system i.e. Corallife 65 watt compact hood? <That works great for algaes, but it really depends on what you want to keep in your refugium> I ordered Mineral mud and have been told to put 1" of mud on top of 1" of sand (not aragonite based...bad) or 2" of mud only. The third option was to use straight live sand (aragonite based) of about 3". <Once again it really depends on what you want to use your refugium for.> I have 6# of live rock I was going to add to the area. 1 piece has a fern type of Caulerpa on it and I was going to use it. I was given some grape Caulerpa but have decided to keep it out of my tank. I also was given a long eel grass type plant that was also s=called Caulerpa? <Possibly the razor Caulerpa. Hard to tell without pictures.> Now I'm really confused what to use as I am getting a shipment of Red Gracilaria, Pods and Stars with my Mud on Friday (tomorrow) when I am putting the system together and online. The tank sits under my 65 gal 4 ft from Display top to refugium bottom. I am using a skimmer/overflow box hard piped with 1" pvc for feed and 3/4" tubing from a Rio 2500 to return the water to the display tank. The pump should run around 500 GPH tops but I can throttle it back on both the inlet 1" and 3/4". <Speed of the water also depends on whether you want the refugium for export nutrient, whether you want to just breed your pods to keep some types of fish alive.> I also have a float switch to shut my 2500 down if I loose prime though I have a powerhead inlet tapped in on my overflow tube to help pull out air. <Very smart> I need to know: 1- Mud or sand ? <What are you trying to accomplish? Mud and sand both serve different purposes. Both have very good reputations> 2- keep the bio balls ? <If you want more oxygenation but remember if you do you will need to account for the nitrates and take care of them someway. 3- Can I mix Gracilaria and Chaetomorpha <YES> 4- should I pull all forms of Caulerpa <I like some Caulerpa in my refugium because it takes out a lot of the nitrates and I like being able to just toss it with no guilt. But I do make sure the grasses are predominant.> 5- Better lights or simple and inexpensive. <Simple works fine if you are just growing Caulerpa.> 6- Lights on 24/7, opposite the main tank cycle or the same as the main tank light cycle? <Most people say 24/7 so you don't have Caulerpas going sexual. Please let me know what you think as I am doing the refugium primarily for food for the Mandarin, and corals. <That makes a huge difference as to what you want to do. You might also want to consider some crushed coral or little pieces of coral for the pods to hide below and multiply.> With a little thought of Nitrate reduction along the way. Thanks Kevin Dixon Reading before setting up a tank helps! Hi, << Blundell here this morning. >> Paul in Kansas here again. We have been busy planning and setting up our 75-gallon reef tank for quite some time now. Bought 90 pounds of Fiji Premium live rock about 4 weeks ago in two separate shipments. It kinda went like this: Received the first 45-pound shipment on a Friday morning. The rock was super clean and smelled great - almost no crud at all. I put the rock in a large Rubbermaid container (~40 gallons). The Rubbermaid sump is in the basement and is connected to the display tank (located in the living room above) with 1-inch PVC hoses (poly braid reinforced). The system works really good with our new 4MDSC pump (Little Giant). Probably get about 12 to 15 gpm flow through rate. Skimmer is a basement-built E-Bay variety that I took a chance on (Poseidon Vortex, or something like that - the little sticker fell off of it). Anyway the skimmer rocks and produces lots of gross skimmate. It literally strips the water clean. (it is supposedly sized for a 125-gallon tank). So everything is going good. I go out of town on Sunday night and leave my wife to take over (it's her tank, after all). She reports that the ammonia went up to 1 ppm later on Sunday night. The second shipment of 45 pounds arrives the following Tuesday morning. It smells a little more and is slightly dirtier looking than the first shipment. By now the original rock in the sump is looking extremely well so she puts it in the display tank upstairs. The new rock goes in the sump. Skim, Skim, Skim. I get back later in the week and everything looks good. << That is good to hear. >> We decide to run the lights in the display tank (PC with 2x65 W 10K, and 2x65 W Actinic) so as to promote the coralline algae growth. Daily testing (almost) with the FasTesT kit indicates no NH3, NO2, or NO3. After a week more, we put all of the rock in the display tank and hooked up a more permanent sump in the basement that was fabricated from an old 30-gallon aquarium and haven't looked back since then. << Makes sense. >> Added 6 snails (assorted) and some red-leg hermits to graze on the algae last week. The tank looks great. Almost too great. Still no NH3, NO2, or NO3. The lights are on 12-hour per day and we are getting some algae, but nothing the grazers cant handle. Is 12 hours too long? << Nope, I run my lights 15 hours per day. >> The tank is running a bit warm (80 degrees F). << Mine does too. >> Tubeworms are starting to pop out of the rocks, and the stuff seems to be coming alive with macro algae, coralline algae, and other stuff. Looks like there may even be some sponge-looking stuff or soft corals starting to grow. What little detritus develops is siphoned-off the now bare bottom during weekly water changes. << I'm not a fan of siphoning off detritus, but that is okay. >> We are going to add 80-pounds of sand next week, and then start adding soft corals after the sand settles down a bit. << Good idea, but I would get sand in their quick.... usually well before the live rock. >> Fish will start to be added sometime in the fall after we figure out what exactly it is that we want. Except for several gallons of salt water being spilt about (thank God the sump is in the basement, by the floor drain - more people should have a setup like this), everything has gone completely fine. Seems to me the rock is cured, although it has just been a bit over 3 weeks since starting. So we either owe our success to the fine knowledge that we have gained here by reading the FAQs for 4 months straight before setting up; or, we are missing something crucial and are heading for a big disaster. << Nope, but I do really like your efforts to read ahead of time. Your advice to everyone else out there is much appreciated. >> Which is it? << When you do add the sand, I wouldn't just tip the bag over and dump it in. Your tank will be cloudy for weeks. I would rinse the sand first, the put it in a little bucket (or cut the top off of a milk jug) and slowly lower the sand down and spread it around. >> Thanks again, Paul and Judy in Kansas. << Blundell in the lab. >> - Setup Help - I have a 65gallon "ALL-GLASS" tank with built in overflows. I have two predrilled holes in the overflow. Can you help me start my system. <Only to a small extent - I'm here, you're there... all I can do is advise.> I don't know what to do... I have a sump with two chambers, one with bio-balls and one is empty, I'm assuming its for a pump and protein skimmer. What are bulk heads? <They are plastic fittings which are installed in the drilled holes in the tank to allow for proper plumbing and a leak-free fit.> How dose it go altogether? <Well... two things come to mind, first All Glass has a kit for these tanks which includes all the parts, bulkheads, standpipe and other plumbing parts to get the tank setup. Secondly, if you are really flying blind here, I strongly suggest you enlist the help of someone from the local fish stores, perhaps the one where you bought this tank. You've got what sounds like a good setup but in the absence of pictures, it becomes difficult to explain how one would get this going. It would be worth a few bucks to obtain local help. Cheers, J -- > Tank Retrofit Quandary Dear WWM Crew, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> Being fairly new to this hobby (a grand total of 11 months - WooHoo!) it is inevitable that I would make mistakes here and there but I never thought I would be so off course. <Even after a lifetime in this hobby, I still make mistakes. Human nature is hard to overcome!> After reading through as many FAQs as I can find on your marvelous website on overflow/plumbing, I still have some questions and am hoping you can set me straight. <I'll try!> My problem: -The tank: 72X18X24 (acrylic) about 125 gallons, yet I have all but one 1" overflow - not enough flow. This tank also has two cut-outs in the middle top of the tank for access to the inside, leaving me with a good 5" of acrylic "lid/lip" if you will, along the walls of my tank. This make it hard to add things like a hang on overflow kit since I would have to enlarge the two cut-outs by cutting into the 5" lid so that the overflow kit could in deed "hang" on to the tank. <Understood. Well, I'm not a big fan of "over the side" overflows anyways.> I don't have the proper tools or knowledge to perform such tasks for fear of cracking the tank all together. <Yes...Discretion is the better part of valor here! If you absolutely want to do this, I'd pay a competent professional aquarium maintenance person to do it.> -The spacing: The tank is about 3 inches from the wall, thus I cannot purchase a hang on overflow kit such as CPR's C-Siphon or other similar product to aid in my water drainage because I am unable to move the tank away from my wall. This same problem would also prevent me from drilling a couple of bulkheads into the back top of my tank to add more overflows. <Ahh...logistical challenges> -The Sump: My sump is about 45 gallons (42x17x15) capacity, due to the length of this sump, if I were to add another overflow, should it be on the same side as my existing built-in overflow or on the opposite side of the tank? If I place it on the opposite side of my existing overflow, I would have to drain the water back the entire length of my tank where the filter bag is, would this slow my drainage? <Hmm...not 100% sure of this, but if the system pump is sufficiently powerful. I don't think it will be too much of a factor. I've seen many, many tanks with overflows on the opposite ends.> My proposed resolutions (any input/critique here would be much appreciated): #1: Drill a hole on the top of my tank that would allow two 3/4" (cannot fit a 1" u-Pipe due to proximity to the wall) PVC schedule 40 U-pipe connected to a flexible hose and use gravity as my siphon. This would add another 1.50" worth of draining power to my tank, or is two 3/4" overflow is not the same as one 1.50" overflow? <My biggest concern here is the lack of reliability of U-tubes. they are prone to siphon breaks, clogging, etc.> #2: Drain the water from my tank and sump, remove my rocks and hope that I can move the tank, sand and stand on my own far away enough from the wall that would allow me sufficient room to add a CPR C-Siphon overflow kit (not sure how I would cut into the lid of my tank to hang this). Or drill bulkheads into the back of my tank (I believe I read one of the FAQs that suggested three 1" overflows for my tank size) to drain the water to my sump. The only problem with the latter solution is that I am not experienced/confident enough to drill the holes and not sure what size bulkhead would hold a 1" PVC pipe. <I know this is the most difficult of the solutions thus far, but it is the approach that I would use. I'd see about having a professional do this, as mentioned above. Drilling either from the bottom of your existing overflow (i.e.; adding another standpipe in the same overflow box) would be optimum, or you could simply add another overflow, as mentioned previously. You could even add a couple of bulkheads to the side to accomplish this. However, if I remember correctly, CPR's over-the-side overflow is pretty reliable, and does not use U-tubes. Regardless of the way you proceed with this "retrofit", you'll need to spend significant effort (and some $$) to get it done.> #3: Purchase a new tank of the exact size only this time, make sure there is two or three 1" built-in overflow and a smaller "lid" on the top of the tank. Money is definitely a concern so I would rather not take this route unless you deem it the best and only solution. <Sure, it's the ultimate solution, but I don't think that you need to resort to that.> My goals: To provide enough drainage/flow to my tank for the health of my fish and what few corals I have. I only plan to have soft corals in my tank along with my current resident of 8 fishes, the largest of which is a yellow Tang. <Well, if drainage is not a big problem (i.e.; the water is getting to the sump and flowing back okay), but you want more flow, why not just save all of the hassle and add some external pumps (i.e.; Tunze or Gemini) to help increase flow without having to tear the tank apart to do it? About all that you'll need to do is to have a 1"-2" hole drilled on the top of the tank so that the pump intakes can fit in...easy> My equipment: Once the overflow/drainage is sufficient I have a Dolphin AMP Master 2700 I'd like to use as my only plumbing. I like to move a way from the power heads that I am currently using. I also have two 1" Sea Swirl that I can attach to my Dolphin pump. Or with the same pump, I can use a Manifold such as the one describe by Mr. Calfo. <Better solution, but two Sea Swirls is better than one. Either way, the Ampmaster moves a lot of water, so your overflow and returns have to be able to process this.> Due to the built-in overflow and the potential addition of U-pipes or C-Siphon for drainage, I cannot complete the loop on the manifold. Would a partial manifold along the back, front and one side of the tank (such as an I-shaped or U-shaped manifold) work? <Sure. You'd still have about 90% of the tank covered> One final issue with the choice of two Sea swirls or a manifold is that I have PC lighting that sits on the top of my tank (picture attached). Do you see any problems with adding the two sea swirls? Would I be able to keep my lighting? <You'll just have to play with their placement to interfere with as little of the lighting as possible. I use Sea Swirls atop my tank, and have managed to do this.> As I get further into this wonderful hobby, I am hoping with your website, Mr. Calfo and Fenner's books and the dedicated efforts of the WWM Crew, I would one day learn enough to make my captive friends happy in their new home. No doubt your website has already escalated my knowledge and I am looking forward to many years of learning, experimentations, successes and failures in this fascinating realm. <You're already on your way! I'm sure that you'll work this retrofit out just fine. You already have some great ideas!> Thank you so much for your time, Tim <My pleasure, Tim! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Going Natural! (Designing a natural system) Hi again, all you good people. <Hi there! Scott F. here again> Thanks Scott, for the reply regarding the skimmer. <My pleasure> I have another question, again about water turnover. <Sure> My tank is bottom drilled with two x 2 inch holes in the back corners. I realize that this is no way near enough to achieve the turnover of the region of 1,750 gph. Using two down pipes these will drain into the sump where there will be two DSB's (more of that later) and all the filtration will take place. I do not like overflows, but without the use of these how will I achieve the required turnover? Could I simply use pumps in the tank to achieve the water movement necessary? <Absolutely. In fact, there are a number of great internal pumps, such as the amazing Tunze Streams, which can turn over literally thousands of gallons per hour at very low energy consumption. You may also want to use external pumps, like Tunze Turbelles or Aquarium Products Geminis. They move lots of water, and impart little or no heat to the water. None of these are cheap, unfortunately, but the quality and reliability is well worth the investment, IMO> I am taking the advice of you guys and going down the more natural route, much to the disbelief of every shop owner in town it seems. Now I want to prove them wrong. I firmly believe it can be done. <Not only can it be done, but the majority of the most beautiful and successful reef systems I've seen are done in the "natural method"> I have already built the two 50g sumps/refugiums one for pod production, one for NNR, one above tank, one below. Also I have the pod producing tank with CaribSea's Sugar Fine sand lit 24/7 and wish to use ordinary coral sand in the other due to the expense of the fine stuff. Would this be acceptable in your mind? <It is. I like the finer stuff, but you can certainly use larger sized substrates> Both will be 5 inches deep with sand one with just live rock the other with macroalgae. The only algae I can find here is Caulerpa racemosa but hope to gradually change that when I can find some other algaes. <Do look for Chaetomorpha. It's a great macroalgae that can really benefit your system.> One more quick question. Already from my sand bed I have much algaes (stems not just Cyano or diatoms) growing from the substrate. Should I stir the top layer of sand or just leave well alone? <Personally, I'd only stir the top half inch or so, which can help break up any clumping of the substrate. However, you don't want to go deeper than that, as you may disturb the very biological processes that you're trying to foster.> Many thanks for your great help in the past and for helping me change the way I go about this wonderful hobby. Cheers. (The beer is coming Scott, be patient!) <It's my pleasure, Simon! And that beer sounds great! Feel free to shoot me an email again any time! Regards, Scott F.> - Converting Eclipse tank to SW- Four years ago I bought the
classic Consensus Marine aquarium and fell in love with the idea of a
salt-water aquarium. <I think you mean Conscientious Marine
Aquarist, by our own Bob Fenner. If that book did exist, it would be
full of lies since the aquarium industry has not reached a consensus on
anything! Hah!> To see if I had what it takes to succeed I started
with a fresh water system. I have 37 gallon show tank (yes, tall it not
as good as long, but it was a gift) with an Eclipse 2 hood (yes, not
very adaptable but the wife liked the clean look), which has for three
years been a great fresh water tank (neon tetras, FW shrimp and an
angle fish). I started with this tank as a test to see if I
could be diligent about water changes (bi-weekly without fail) and
maintenance before "moving up" to salt water. <k> The
angle has gotten so big (LFS said "he will not get too big",
good-by LFS hello, Wet Wed Media!) <Likely a good choice!> that
the tetras have almost all become lunch over that past 9 months. So
rather than replace them, I'm wondering if I might use this time to
convert to Salt Water. Yes, I should move to a larger set-up but for
reasons of space, money and domestic happiness I would like to try to
keep the same basic tank set-up. <Ah, weighing the spouses happiness
versus saltwater aquarium, a tough decision indeed :) > My final
objective for this tank would be (in order of how I would add them) 1.
30 pounds live rock (probably the deco-grade rock from Dale at
gulf-view) I would use this to cycle the tank. 2. A power head/wave
maker for more circulation. 3. 2-3 inches of sand and live sand (not
sure how many pounds that will take yet). This would be added during
cycling but after the rock has cured a bit and unwanted hitchhikers on
the rock can identified and removed 4. Some turbo snails to help with
algae (In live in a high-rise with floor to ceiling windows and lots of
natural light even in the darkest, shielded corner I have the aquarium)
<A good reason to start thinking about water purification early in
the game.> 5. Two juvenile Percula clown fish (can you tell have two
small children?) 6. A cleaner shrimp, 7. A neon goby 8. Possibly a
small star fish (Fromia elegans or indica?) That would be
all for this tank. OK, I do plan on adding a PLASTIC anemone
to complete the "Nemo" look without subjecting a real anemone
to the torture my low-light system inflict on it. <Excellent> You
will see I have not mentioned a protein skimmer. I just don't think
I can fit one in with my Marineland eclipse hood. <Not without
cutting> I have the # 2 hood with only a 3" x
4" area of open space. While I have read on this site that those
with an Eclipse #3 hood have been able to carve space (literally) for
an Aqua C Remora skimmer the site says I need 5.5 x 2 inches
of space which my Eclipse 2 just does not have. <My advice: Ditch
the hood in favor of a skimmer. The Eclipse is going to retain heat,
slow gas exchange, not allow for a lighting upgrade, and most
importantly, not allow for a protein skimmer. Lose the hood and pick up
an AquaC Remora, your tank will function and look much better in the
long run.> Bottom line is I would be relying on the live rock,
Eclipse filter and water changes every two weeks to keep the system
healthy. <Yep, without a protein skimmer I would employ frequent
carbon use and water changes.> My questions are: 1.Do you know of a
protein skimmer smaller than the Remora that might fit my hood?
<Nope, will have to cut for any skimmer you want.> 2. If not, am
I being irresponsible trying to convert this system to salt
water? <Not irresponsible at all, just lose the hood.>
If you think this system has a very good sense of success: 3. How many
snails for this tank to help with Algae? <No magic number here, it
will depend on your algae growth which in turn depends on numerous
factors. Like I said earlier, start thinking about water
purification.> 4. Would a starfish with my low-eclipse hood lighting
be possible? <Starfish are not photosynthetic and thus care not
about your lighting.> 5. Any recommendations for a good in-tank
powerhead or wavemaker for this system. <Maxi-jet powerheads are as
good as it gets, and if you feel the need to shell out some cash for a
wavemaker, the Red Sea Wavemaster Pro is always a good choice.>
Thank you for any help or suggestions. It is redundant to say that this
is the most useful resource on the Internet, but I simply must add to
all the complements----thank you again for your wonderful site and help
you give us all. <I wish you great success with your new saltwater
endeavor! -Kevin> Mark Viteznik
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