Lighting and other questions
I just purchased a 48 inch 260 watt lunar light from j&l aquatics in Vancouver 2 Coralife SP 65W 10000K Bulbs and 2 Coralife SP 65W Actinic Bulbs. for the other 24 inches I put a 130 watt power compact. will this light permit for all soft corals and maybe a derasa clam. << Soft corals yes, clam no. >> The tank is 18 high 72 and 24. I also was looking at purchasing a quiet one 4000 pump. I was told by J&l that this would be good for my tank. Is this a semi quiet pump and reliable? << Best thing to do here is to search online and find some people who have purchased them.  Better to get many opinions and not just one. >> I was thinking of a Malu anemone but I don't think there will be enough light am I right? << I would probably avoid anemones, just to be safe. >> What's the best anemone for false Percula clowns? << Xenia, but if you really want an anemone I really like E. quadricolors even thought they aren't natural hosts. >> also how deep should the sand bed be? << How about four inches. >> I was just going to use 1 inch of Aragamax select will this be ok?
<< I would definitely go deeper, regardless of what sand you use. >>
thanks for your valuable time ( I know I couldn't answer all these questions you guys get)
<<  Blundell  >>

Marine Substrate
I have a ?  One of my friends gave me about 35lbs of crushed coral.  Its
about the size of your small finger tip.  Do you recommend using this for my new
tank?  Its still in the box it came in.  He said it cost him a bit.
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the Related FAQs (linked, in blue, at top) re. Bob Fenner>

- Setting up a Fish Room -
Bob,
<Jason C here instead...>
Let me begin by saying that I discovered your site this evening and, six hours later, can't believe what a wealth of information it has. I have had aquariums since I was 15. Currently, at the age of 40, I have a 125 fish only marine and a 75 fish only marine. I have also set up a 46 fish only marine for my wife, and a 29 freshwater for my 11 year old son. We all truly enjoy this hobby, and consider our fish to be pets as much as we do our dog and 3 cats.
People ask me all the time if having so many aquariums is a lot of work. There was a time in my life when I thought of the routine maintenance of my aquariums as a chore. But after suffering a near total tank wipe out in my 125 (I lost some fish that I had had for over a decade), I realized that keeping fish is as big a responsibility as any other pet. Today, I actually enjoy the regular maintenance of my tanks, though it does take up a lot of my time.
In my profession, I install home theater systems, among other things. In these rooms, I make it a point to hide as much of the equipment as possible to help create the illusion of being in a theater, or at least minimize the distractions while enjoying a movie. This got me to thinking about my fish hobby. Wouldn't it be great to have a room where I could view all my aquariums, without being exposed to any of the equipment that keeps these tanks going? You would enter the room and enjoy various tanks built flush into three walls of the room. And wouldn't it be great to have complete and total access to each of the tanks filtration and lighting systems? Around the room would be a larger room, sort of a behind the scenes set up. After pondering this idea for ... a few hours! ... I decided to turn half of my two car garage into a fish room. I plan on turning my 125 into a mini-reef, keeping the 75 as my delicate marine fish tank (I currently have a pair of Golden Butterfly Fish and a healthy, thriving Moorish Idol.) I would add another 75 as a freshwater tank (with my son's help) and a 300 gallon marine fish only as the centerpiece.
Which brings me to my questions. Have you heard of individuals attempting this? <Sure, is not uncommon at all and really the best way to do things for larger displays. Very common in Germany.> If so, where on you web site could I find information, suggestions, etc? <I've not seen much mention of this on the web although there are books appearing on the scene more and more often that describe larger aquarium systems... some in more detail than others.> Am I a fool for attempting such an endeavor? <Not at all, but you will need to consider what effects the weather might have on such a setup... for instance if your garage we're not winterized and endured sub zero winters.> If you told me I was, would it change my mind? Probably not!
Sorry for the length of the email. I look forward to your responses.
Dana
<Cheers, J -- >

Marine set-up upgrade, upsizing
Dear Bob, I would first like to say that you are very respected by a couple of marine biologists I have spoken to.
>>Rich here, hope I can fill in well enough for Bob!>>
I just happened upon your site thru a search engine and am so happy I did. I have had a small marine aquarium in the past with a few fish and no real equipment to speak of and did rather well with it. I am now going from the 20 gal only fish to trying to set up a 55 gal reef. The marine biologists I found helped me with a few suggestions on equipment but now that I have been reading your FAQ's for about 3 hours+ now I am so full of ideas I am really confused. I need to know what I really need for this set up. The more I read the more expense I am getting into and the more frustrated.
>>It is very frustrating. Everyone thinks their way is the best and every equipment maker makes it seem that what they make is indispensable. Take your time, hang in there, and a plan that suits your needs will take shape.>>
I have the new tank and a wet/dry trickle filter box with media but I really don't know what to get for my skimmer, lights and pumps.
>>If you are going with a reef, most would suggest not using wet/dry media. It can become a 'nitrate factory'. While it does give a bunch of surface area for the right bacteria, it also allows lots of detritus to get trapped and rot in your water. The general feeling in the reefing world is that it is better to remove material that can rot than let it rot. As it turns out, whatever rock and sand you have should be plenty for biological filtration>>
I have been told to go with a 400 watt metal halide light instead of the fluor to grow coral but I am beginning to think this is serious overkill for a 55 gal.
>>400 watt may easily be overkill. I would suggest two 250 watt double ended bulb and pendants. I am a big fan of the pendants because they protect the bulb and you, but you could go with the single ended 250 watt bulbs just as well (175's would even be doable). I would go with the two lamps because in a 4 foot tank one lamp will not give you good coverage. Lighting is 'probably the biggest personal issue in reefing due to color preferences and critter choice. With 2 250's you should be able to keep just about any reef animal.
If you are going with soft coral only, VHO or PC or T5 lights should be just fine, but normal Flour's are generally not a good idea because they are too weak and don't put out light in the right spectrum for coral growth.
Please tell me a few types and model numbers of skimmers and pumps etc..
>>I like the EuroReef skimmers. I use several of them, and have never been unhappy with their performance. You could check their website or an online vendor for sizes and prices because they recently added new 'economy' models and changed pricing. Deltec and HSS also have a good rep as do the skimmers made by Myreefcreations.
Pump wise, I need a little more to go one before I can recommend something - there are just too many choices.>>
also I only found one diagram on your website for setting up all this under my stand and it doesn't show the pump to send it back to the tank and shows the skimmer after the bio balls and your articles say the skimmer needs to be first.
>>I am not sure which diagram you are talking about, but I would guess the pump is internal to the sump rather than external.>>
I guess what all this boils down to is I need a few ideas of products to narrow down my searching and only what I need to be efficient until I see if I can do a reef set up. Does your book show a diagram of how to set up all this equipment in detail? I really don't have any place in my area to get ideas of set up. Only one marine fish store for about 40 miles. Thanks so much for any help you can give me!!  Kathy
>>The book has some great information, so I would suggest picking it up. All of this can be very confusing at first, but don't worry, it will all begin to make sense!
Rich>>

New Reef Tank
Do you have any recommendations on books to assist in the planning and
setting up of a 75 gallon reef tank?
<Yes. If you are very new to the hobby, please look into Mike Paletta's books (insert his name as author in Amazon.com or other book etailer site). If "ready to go" (i.e. with sufficient/comfortable background in freshwater) I'd read through John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"... Once you have at least this sort of exposure I would gather factual material from websites such as our WetWebMedia.com and bulletin boards like Reefs.org, ReefCentral... make a list of gear (tank, stand, lighting, filtration... AND livestock you'd like to consider further) and investigate your options thoroughly before purchasing/proceeding. You will be very glad you did this research as there is considerable "dis"information, some of it quite popular. Bob Fenner>

A new 55 gal salt
Hi Bob,
I found out about your site through a news letter @ my LFS. Here's the overview of my tank. I set up my 55 w/ 60lbs of LS and 10 lbs of LR( all I could afford @ the time) plus about 50 gal of water from his shop. He told me to keep my current filter (aqua clear 300) and told me to use some bio stars and the sponge medium (new of course) along with a unit of chem-pure. He also told me to add some Bacter vital once a day for about a week. I also put in a SEIO M620 super flow pump. all that was started on Sat. on Sun I went back so he could check my pH but it was too low 7.8 so I started to put in some buffer. My cousin surprised me with 5 damsels (2 blue 2 zebra 1 domino)
<Oh oh>
well now there's 3 left they seem pretty happy. I've noticed some life in the rock and some kind of snail cruising on the sand. One thing though is the lighting, I have a very crude hood with two regular light bulbs at each end and a 30 gal light fixture in the middle with an actinic, I know I have to get a better system but for
now that's what I have to work with. how awful is this what suggestions do you have for me on my current set up.  
<Not awful, and workable. Keep reading and enjoying your set-up and you'll progress as it matures. Bob Fenner>

Setup Questions
Hi,
This is a very nice straight forward site, Thank You for coming to work
today!  I hope, I am asking questions in the right place. Experience in
freshwater only.  I am beginning and very slowly ;) I am partially confused,
Information overload, everyone has their own way.  I want to start simple, I
am getting a 55 gallon tank, thinking of a Venturi protein skimmer?  Filter
Eheim 2213 canister?  Power heads sound like a must have and I cannot for
the life of me figure out what they are, where do they go, I have searched
and searched. Best heater Idea would be appreciated?  I will do live rock
and live sand, I thought 3-4 inch bed Aragonite, is this O.K.?  but the
rock.. how much do I have to have for it to be effective?  I am under the
impression It must be cured??  I would like in the future -way out future to
have anemone for clown fish, what exactly do I need for light?  Am I missing
anything?  I do not wish to add fish till the tank cycles.  Please help,
Best regards
>>>Greetings!
Wow, lots to cover. Don't hesitate to drop me a line back if I miss anything.
A canister filter is unnecessary. Your live rock and your sand is your filter. The rock can "cure", (which is just another word for letting all the dying organisms finish dying.) in your tank. A 3" sand bed, or even a 2" sand bed is fine.
Powerheads are small, submersible pumps that go in your tank and help circulate the water. In a 55 gallon you may are may not need any additional circulation. I just depends on what you have in there. Are you planning on using a tank with overflows, and a sump? This is a tank that goes below the main display. Your protein skimmer, heater (Ebo Jager is the best brand) and return pump are all housed in the sump. If you do not choose to go this route, you can get a hang-on skimmer. Also, without a sump, and therefore a pump returning water to the main display, you will certainly need a powerhead or two. :)You can also use a return pump that is plumbed "dry", meaning it's not submersed in the sump. I like submersible pumps myself.
How much rock? That's really up to you. You need enough to have adequate space to attach corals and such, but you don't need a "Wall" of live rock along the back of the tank from the sand all the way to the top as some reefers do. I much prefer a rock outcropping on one side, and a smaller outcropping on the opposite end. Kind of an asymmetrical look.
For an anemone down the road - think metal halides in at least the 150 watt range.
Any further questions - fire away. I will not be back around here until Mon however.
Regards
Jim<<<  

Tank setup Follow-up
Thanks Jim!  For your response, and so quickly, you have provided me with
more knowledge in 1
e-mail than many weeks of surfing. Hats off!  I have found a tank, used.
The most unfortunate thing is it is freshwater, equipped with fish.  Only
like 4 of them, rather large though.  I can do freshwater easy enough and I
feel some what obligated to supply them with a home. However, I really want
the saltwater. And a little unsure if I am qualified or informed enough at
this point. Speaking of being informed...Only one way to get there ;) (Sorry
I digress)
The questions...   
I purchased a 72 gallon bow front, All-Glass brand. It is very
pretty, I could not resist. I get it today so I am a little weak on exact
info.  Will I still be able to do saltwater when I am ready? I believe it
has 1 overflow (in the back corner?). I have read bow front lighting may be
inadequate??  It has two full tank length fluorescents in there now, I don't
know the wattage.  You said 150W (range) metal halide, is that 2 or more for
this size tank? .But if I am not planning an elaborate reef system, would
bow front lighting be O.K.? For anemone?   
Secondly, a sump is a bucket essentially under the tank (I have seen
this, online) full of water?  I hate to sound crazy but does this create a
foul smell? It will be in my living room. Does the salt (salty air) corrode
the tank, or anything else in the room (hardwood floor), over time.  I'd
like to see this tank last for ever ;)  Btw- Some people mentioned the
canister filter for only occasional use?
Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Joanne
>>>Hello again Joann,
Your tank either has one overflow in the center, or two - one in each corner. To make Entacmaea quadricolor happy, (bubble tip anemone) the hardiest of the host anemones, you should have at least a single 150W double ended HQI pendant over that tank or a 250W single ended fixture. Or, PC's will work, T5's will work, etc. It's not the TYPE of light so much, as the intensity. Stock fixtures will not be enough.  Ideally, if you go MH, you should have two bulbs over that tank since it's 4' long. Some fixtures such as the Giesemann units have enough spread to use a single bulb over 4'. Just put the anemone towards the center and hope it stays there. :) Aquamedic makes nice 2x150W fixtures. If you're the do it your self type, you can make your own metal halide fixtures, but if you go this route I recommend the single ended, or "mogul" bulbs. They're easier to deal with if you're making the thing yourself. You can go to www.hellolights.com and find all the parts you need to make your own lights. It's not how elaborate a system is that dictates the lighting needs, but the needs of the critters within. E. quads are medium light anemones really, but again, stock fixtures will not do the job.
   A sump is just another tank under the display. No, it doesn't smell badly, nor does it cause any problems to your flooring as long as you avoid leaks and major spillage. The water from the display constantly flows through it - it's just an extension of your display tank really. Having a saltwater tank of normal proportions does not cause any adverse effect to your home or belongings within. :)
   You can use a canister filter occasionally to "polish" the water by filling with carbon. I've never seen a need for it personally.
Jim<<<

Setup Follow-up Part 2
Thanks, I received the tank Friday and had to set up freshwater for the fish
that came with.  But I am in the process of finding them a home.  I think I
have found one.  
Now that I have the tank I see it has no over flow, tempered glass bottom
(no holes allowed) How does this effect my set up? And how elaborate of a
clean up job do I need to do?  It also has crushed coral for the bottom can
I use that again with live sand?  
Thanks again, I have referred people to your site, it's great!
>>>No problem! :)
No overflow means you will just need to get a hang-on skimmer that mounts on the back of the tank. The heater will also go in the display. Some power heads will definitely be needed for circulation. There are siphon type overflows that hang on the back of the tank, which allow you to use a sump, but I've heard of too many problems with these units to feel comfortable recommending them to you.
You need to purchase fine aragonite sand for your sand bed, crushed coral is too coarse. You can mix a bit in with the sand though, say 10% in order to give some more variance to the grain sizes. That is, as long as we're talking about coral sand, and not the VERY coarse crushed coral here - the stuff that is basically large chunks of coral skeleton. If so, throw it out.
Regards
Jim<<<

Tank Questions
I think I now have my stocking list worked out but now I have some questions about my tank. I just got $2000 that I didn't expect to have. Nice surprise. <Definitely and great timing with the set up of a tank as well.> Well I would like to upgrade some components in my tank and would like to know what you think is the best purchase. <I have to tell you if I had the money the thing I would purchase for my tank is a killer skimmer.> The tank is currently not setup.
My plan is to eventually turn this tank into a reef tank with Anemone, Soft coral, polyps and mushrooms. I have to research some more before moving into this.  I have a 65g tank that currently has an overflow box/wet dry filter/generic protein skimmer/older pump/standard lighting for two 36" fluorescent lights and a 24" light, and no live rock.
I will definitely be purchasing 80-100lbs of live rock. I was considering getting two different kinds Fiji and Tonga to add variety or should I just stick to one type.<I've gotten to the point where I like to stay with types, all Fiji, all Marshall all gulf you know?> I was also going to get some live sand to go in the tank. Would you recommend a DSB. If not how deep should it be. <I like deep sand beds and there's a lot of discussion on them, let me recommend you take a look at Dr. Ron Shimek discussion on Reef Central, the DSB discussion on www.fragexchange.com and the discussion on www.reeffrontiers.com. These three offer various discussions on a deep sand bed but basically it comes down to personal choice and what you want to accomplish with one.> I want to upgrade my skimmer to a AquaC EV180. (Should I get the
Ozone/Calcium reactor fitting) <It would prepare you for future changes to your tank if you think that you might want to go sps eventually?>
I was considering changing the wet dry for a standard 20-50g tank for a sump and this is wear I'm really confused. I don't understand how to move the water around through all these components. Do I need anything in the tank if the heater, Protein skimmer and pump are all going to be in the tank with live rock. <Usually if you run an empty sump that's where you put the heater, protein skimmer and pump.> Do I just run the tube to the tank from the over flow and let it pour over the rock or does it need to be more sophisticated.  If I buy a new
pump rated at 600-900 gph do I need to get a new overflow box rated for this or will it keep up. <They generally rate them for a reason, sometimes the smaller ones just cannot keep up.> From the pump to the display tank do I just put the tube in the tank with a return valve.  <Yes if you mean return back to the tank.> Should I just not consider this and stick with the wet/dry and remove the bio balls and replace with live rock. Would I still need a new overflow box. <Yes.>  The pump I'm considering is a PAN World 100PX. <Never heard of it sorry>
For lighting I was think a PFO acrolight setup w/150W MH and 2 75w actinic VHO bulbs. Is this enough light for what I'm considering or should I go with some more watts. <Its fine for mushrooms but if you want to go up to more difficult corals it won't go up with you.>
Sorry this is so long but I don't think I'll have the opportunity to spend this much money on my tank for awhile so I want to do it right. If you see any problems or things I could do better please let me know. You are the experts. <I think we are all just trying to share our experiences.> Also if I need plumbing parts for this could you tell me what would be best. <Most of your parts are going to depend on your pump sizes.>  I researched this information under the FAQ for DIY sumps and tanks but I couldn't find the info I was looking for. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I've also purchase Bob and Anthony's new book along with
Michael Paletta's book. I've already got CMA.<Very nice choices on the books, You might also look at the John Tullock book because it has an excellent section on biotypes.>  Thanks for all the info.  <Good luck Adam and let me know how it goes, MacL>
Adam

New tank set up. 9/28/04
Dear WWM crew, Very nice and helpful website. Thank you.  A lot of questions.  <Glad you have benefited.  Ask away!>
I am new to the hobby and in the process of planning my first tank: 75g with a 20-30g sump. Tank will have LR & LS, fish and invertebrates (though not planning on hard corals or clams, though it is hard to tell the future). I am thinking of using the Oceanic glass tank and their below the tank sump system.
1. Is the sump by Oceanic a good choice or should I do something
else? <An outstanding choice, but definitely the "Cadillac".  A plain all-glass aquarium or even a plastic storage container is a much more economical choice, but definitely not as sexy.>
2.Is the Aqua C EV 120 protein skimmer a good choice? Or is it
better to get a 180? Will it fit into the sump?  <Aqua-C generally makes fairly good recommendations for their skimmers, I would still err on the large side, but not as much as other manufacturers.>
3.Is the Iwaki  MD70RLT (1500 gph) a good choice? Is it too
powerful and if so how would I know? <Probably a good choice to run both the tank and the skimmer, but this is a lot of pump!  Iwaki gets the prize in this hobby for actually being conservative in their ratings.>
4.I am thinking of power compact lights (T5) in an ICE Cap Ballast
; 3- 4 96 watt bulbs. Adequate or too much? <Way more than is necessary if you don't plan on corals.  In this case, save money and electricity and use standard output lamps.>
5.I read with intersect in Anthony Calfo article about the idea of
having the return water to the tank go through a single pipe circling the tank for circulation. Could you please give me a bit more detail (a diagram) of how that works, type of type (size), # of outlets etc. <There are a tremendous number of variables here.  Do try to find the article again for guidelines.  A very rough rule of thumb would be to push at least 200gph through each 1/2" PVC outlet.>
I have read Mr. Fenner's book and enjoyed it very much. I look forward to reading the Reef Invertebrates book. Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions. Chris  <Bob and Anthony will appreciate your kind words.  Best Regards!  AdamC.>

Impatient marine aquarist with levitating tank powers
Hi I am setting up a 155 all glass aquarium with a sump with miracle mud and
Caulerpa, with its light and a skimmer, the lights are 2 175 MH and 2 40
watt super actinic hood 4 foot long.
<And the lighting on the sump/refugium?>
Should I set every thing up and then
build the stand around it they are installing it with a metal custom made
stand and I have to cover with wood but I want to build it inside a
furniture should I first have everything done and then call them to set it
up?
<If it won't be a lot of trouble to assemble/place the wood fascia around the functional stand, I would go ahead and set up the tank... the longer it's running, the more stable it will be>
The water is already cycled they sell it cycled so I just have to wait couple
days till its sets to introduce fish right?
<Better for a week or more to go by... and to test the water to determine if it is actually cycling>
I am setting up a mini reef How
long do I have to wait to start stocking?
<Are you using live rock? Likely a month to two months should go by without placing fishes, invertebrates... your test kits will help you know when this time is nigh>
I want to have sponges, I've been diving down here in the Atlantic side of
Panama In Portobelo Ima from here and iv seen incredible things down there
<Neat!>
My question is can you have the sponges spread around the rocks in a tank
also?
<Yes... though they are not all equally easy to collect, acclimate, keep going... please read over re this group on www.WetWebMedia.com>
They look as if they covered the rock how can you accomplish this this
gives a lot of colors?
<Either by careful collection and moving of the rock itself (w/o exposing it to air), or waiting a period of several months to years for it to populate rock in your system>
I would like to do this. How can I capture them?
<Please see WWM re>
I
also want to add some polyps (featherdusters) and some anemones and soft
corals and maybe a brain can you do this?
<Yes, can be done>
I basically want to replicate an
Atlantic reef. In fishes I would like to have Squirrelfishes that you see
a lot down there and some surgeons, and maybe an angel and butterflies, royal
Gramma and some damsels can these all live together?
<Not a large angel in this size system... but some of the dwarf species or even a Rock Beauty might go>
and inverts maybe a
sea star and some shrimp and cleaners. Can you give me some ideas of how to
capture my own fish and an idea of how to stock my tank how many fish?
<This is posted on WWM, please read there>
I had
a 75 gallon tank till a month ago that it started leaking so I got my money
back and bought this new tank so I have some Idea of maintaining it I only had
live rock and some fishes was starting to convert into mini reef. I been
reading a lot Mr. Fenner's book that I have and your website and talked to some
of you by mail, but want your help with my new tank.
<Sounds like a very exciting adventure. I have collected marines and helped set-up biotopic presentations in several places in the world. Tremendous fun and learning experiences. Bob Fenner>

Beginner setup questions
Hi...remember me...It's ok if you can't. In the previous I ask, you said "Lighting is the big question, it will make a difference in what you can keep and what temperature you will have." << I remember saying that.  Actually I say it often. >> I plan to use 2 fluorescent light(1 bright, 1 blue, 40watt each) as the length of the light and my aquarium are the same (both 48 in.).  << That is not much light at all. >> I also plan to use a wooden hood on that aquarium which I think when I setup this reef aquarium, it will look nice. I understand that if I use that, the temperature will rise hot air will be trapped in the hood. So, I plan to cut a hole behind the hood and install a fan to suck out the air (like the idea of a computer's cooling fan which is placed in the casing). << Yes, but have the fan blow in, pushing new air into the canopy and not pulling it out.  If you are using standard 40 watt fluorescent lights, I'd use at least six of them. >> I think it will be cooler, but I don't know how cool it will be. Is this ok...? << Yes, those lights don't give off much heat, especially when compared to metal halides. >>
About filtering, I've seen filter which the locals called it "the overflow system". They drilled a hole at the aquarium. The water in the main aquarium will overflow out of the aquarium through that hole, which leads to another aquarium (which is the filter) that are separated into 3, 4 or 5 section. << Great way to go.  Try searching for "Sump" or "Refugium" as that is what we typically them. >> The filter medium are bio-ball (see pic below), bio-ring (see pic below) and several types of filter wool. in the final compartment, the water will be pumped back to the main aquarium. Some just use canister filter, hang on filter (small aquarium). << I would scratch all those ideas and go with live rock and macro algae in those compartments.  It will really help with natural filtration. >> I plan to use the overflow system and the canister filter. I was thinking, will it be ok if I connect the input tube of the canister filter to a undergravel filter.
I'll put in 20kg of life rocks (just like you recommend me) and around 3in. thick of coral sand. So, what proper maintenance or other things I should be aware of. I heard about don't do water change as changing the water might cause the water to be unstable.  << Completely false.  I think a 10% to 25% water change every few weeks is a good idea.  It really can't hurt as long as it is mixed well. >> I also heard about not moving the life rocks once it's settled in the aquarium. It's that true? << No, not true at all.  Lots of people are always moving their rocks around.  I think it looks better stable, but moving them isn't bad. >>
Thanks...! (sorry to ask such a long question)
<< Again I would have to recommend some serious reading.  Please look for Conscientious Aquarist and Natural Reef Aquariums as those two books can be of great help. >>
<<  Blundell  >>   

Planning to set up a saltwater aquarium
Hello Crew!!
<< Blundell tonight. >>
Let me apologize in advance for the length if this email.  I have been
doing much research on a new tank setup (so far 6 months and counting) and
really need some advice or just some feedback as to whether I am on the
right track with my proposed setup or if I need to rethink a few things.
I'd much rather plan ahead and do the research before buying anything that
dooms me to failure. << We all think that way.  But I for one am not strong willed enough to do it. >> I have been reading the information on WWM for the
last 6 months and have learned a great deal.  I would just like some
verification of my current plan, and any pitfalls I may be getting myself
into.  My budget is small and I am saving up to get the best components I
can, however, the tank is already bought and in use as fresh water.  That
component can not change.
Okay, that said, earlier this year I bought a pre-drilled All-Glass 55
gallon aquarium with a mega-flow overflow (I believe this handles approx.
600 GPH).  The intention here was to use it for a while as fresh water (I
had in mind discus, but later changed to Angels (5), Gouramis (3), Tetras
(6), Mollies (2), Pictus Cats (2), Cory Cats (2), and a Pleco (1).  I know
this is a bit crowded but I have had the tank set up for 6 months with no
problems, (Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20 ppm, PH 8.1 (we have natural
High PH where I am at and the fish stores also stock in this higher PH).  I
have an Emperor 400 for mechanical and biological filtration and a home
made wet/dry in a 10 gallon sump to handle biological filtration (2 gals of
bioballs).  This combination seems to be working good.  I do 10% water
changes every 2 weeks and change filter media every 4 weeks, alternating
between the emperor and my carbon poly pads in the wet/dry.  I have had
many fresh water tanks in the past and have had generally good success with
little loss in fish.  This set-up seems to be working well and is
relatively low maintenance.
In the next 2 years or so, I am looking to make the plunge into Saltwater
and would like to know your thoughts on my proposed setup. << Saltwater filtration is all about the live rock.  In a 55 gal tank you will want one box of rock (45 pounds) which will be costly, but necessary. >> First of all,
the tank would remain the same, 55 gal with a single mega-flow overflow.  I
would increase the size of the sump to 30 or 40 gallons, the biggest I can
fit in the cabinet.  I will overflow the main tank into a skimmer area of
the sump large enough for a Euro-Reef skimmer (sized for a 75 gallon tank)
and then flow into a large section for a refugium type media (DSB, LR,
Macro Algae), and finally flow into the return pump area (currently a Surge
submersible pump rated at about 600 GPH at 4 feet head).  I am thinking of
using a Sterilite box for the refugium area to allow the majority of the
flow to go around the refugium so as not to disturb the contents too much.
I would put 1 200 watt heater in the sump and 1 200 watt heater hidden in
the main display.  I would do this in case I need to turn off the sump
temporarily and keep the display tank up and running with a power filter.
Lighting for the refugium would be NO Florescent to start with on 24 hrs.
Lighting for the main tank would be 4-96 watt PC (2 full spectrum, 2
actinic) for a total of 384 watts.  << Not bad.  I wouldn't light the sump 24hrs and you may want to look into a cheap home depot compact fixture.  >>I haven't decided if I want to keep the
Emperor 400 or not.  Keeping the Emperor 400 will cause problems with my
plans for a circulation manifold at the top of the tank. << No, they are fine and good to have. >>  I would like to
control the flow through 4 nozzles in roughly 4 upper corners of the tank.
Here is what I want to keep in the display.  I want to try a mini reef tank
of sorts.
70 - 90 lbs live rook  << Excellent. >>
150 lbs live sand (not sure if this is too much or not enough) << That's a lot of sand.  I don't think you'll need that much. >>
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
1 Yellow Watchman Goby
1 Scott's Velvet Wrasse or Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse, or Exquisite Wrasse
1 Purple Firefish Goby
1 Flame Hawkfish (debating on this one since it may eat inverts)
1 Coral Beauty Pigmy Angel (can I have this with the above fish?)
Inverts (clean up crews)
Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs, Turbo Snails, Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crabs, Dwarf
Zebra Hermit Crabs, Abalone Snails, Red Foot Moon Snail
Fancy Serpent Sea Star (tiger stripes), Sea Cucumber (tiger tail), Burgundy
Sea Star.
Corals (6 to 12 months after tank has been established)
Mushrooms, Leathers, Starburst Polyp Corals
Anemone (for Ocellaris Clownish)
Long Tentacle Anemone
<< Well here is a change.  Those corals should come very soon.  Only a couple weeks after the tank is up.  The fish need to wait several months. >>
I would create small caves and hiding spaces with the live rock while
trying to leave enough swim room for the angel and wrasse.
Am I trying to bite off too much with this setup in this size of a tank?
Of the fish I am considering, would they all work together or are there
some I should take off my list?  << Looks fine. >>
I still need to do more research and will be getting the following books
soon, Conscientious Marine Aquarist, The New Marine Aquarium, and Reef
Invertebrates.  Are there others I should have to aid in my search for an
interesting and colorful reef setup?  << So many books I don't know where to start.  I'm a fan of the Julian Sprung books, check them out. >>
Your help in pointing me in the right directions will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jeff Smith
<< Also, check for a local aquarium club that can be of assistance. Blundell >>

Instruction manuals
Hi, <Howdy Tad, MacL here>
Thanks for the past, present, and future advice. <I'll do my best> You've saved me and others lots of time and money. Speaking of money... Being the cheapskate my wife accuses me of, I have either purchased my gear used or otherwise (eBay). <Nothing wrong with that > 75gal tank & stand, Amiracle Mudd Filter, (any opinions on these?),<Never used one sorry> Excalibur Hang-On. I am in the process of setting up the tank with a DSB of 3" fine aragonite covered with 1" of CaribSea Live sand and 65lbs of live rock. I also have 6 x 55w CF in the canopy. 4 10000k, 2 50/50 actinic. My question is this. Do you know of any websites or retailers that can supply us (cheapskates) with instruction manuals from various brands? <I would suggest posting on any or all of the websites that you know of and ask people if they have an for them.  You'd be amazed what people keep.> Amiracle seems to have disappeared off the planet, and the Excalibur people stopped talking to me when they found out I bought the skimmer used. My skimmer came with a broken Rio pump (Good luck from all I've heard about them), so I purchased a Maxi-jet 1200 to use. When I hooked up the Maxi-jet I got hardly any bubbles in the skimmer body at  all, and the venturi air inlet started spitting water out. Is there another adapter I need to use the Maxi-jet? <I believe you have a balance problem, the powerhead may be too strong.> Or do I have it hooked up wrong? Thanks again, Free advice from you guys is what allows us financially challenged people to enjoy this hobby as well. <I hope this helped Tad, MacL>
Tad

46 Gal. Bow front Setup
I have been reading a plethora of your website and The New Marine Aquarium by Paletta.  Both are astronomical in information, detail and ease of understanding; so thanks to you both...
I plan on setting up a 46 gallon bow front with the following equipment (keep in mind this is a first for me regarding a marine setup.)  
- DIY PVC water return manifold from sump w/flexible ball-socket joint tubing
- 25 lbs. of LR. (to start)
- 2" of reef sand w/ 1" of live sand (aragonite?)
- CPR CS50 overflow box (300 gph)
- Eheim Hang-on Filter Liberty 2042 (200 gph)
- AquaC Urchin Skimmer w/Maxi-Jet 1200 (in-sump)
- Pro-Heat 200w Heater (in sump)
- 10 gallon aquarium for a sump (it's the only size that will fit underneath)
- 3/4" PVC return to sump draining into a filter pad
- 1" PVC return to tank
What size/brand pumps do you recommend for return?  Am I missing anything else crucial??  I want to upgrade my 36" standard 2 bulb fluorescent lighting in the future but my financial resources will be drained at this point of setting up.  For contents in the tank, I would like to own 2 clownfish, 1 purple tang, and/or any other suggestions you may have.  In the future, I would also enjoy having some corals, mushrooms, etc.  I have also been recommended to purchase GARF's Grunge and/or cleaner packages.  Thanks in advance for your assistance and advice.
Michael Oteri
***Hey Michael,
We're talking submersible pumps here? Then I would go with a Mag. Off the top of my head I can't give you a specific model, but look at the flow rates of the different models. I think maybe a Mag 9 or so would be appropriate for your tank. I recommend getting a pump that is a little more powerful than you think you'll need, and throttling it down if need be with a ball valve in the return line.
You do not need the Eheim filter, but it won't hurt. :) Aragonite will work just fine for your setup.
  I would steer clear of GARF for reasons beyond what I have time to type here. There are other, better places to purchase starter kits from. They are EXPENSIVE though for what you get. I recommend just getting some grunge from the bottom of the live rock bin at your LFS.
You can't house a tang in a tank that small, even the smaller varieties - just not enough space. 75 gallons is the minimum tank size even for the smaller Zebrasoma species.
Good fish for that tank are Chromis damsels, as well as some of the other smaller, Chrysiptera damsels. The orchid Dottyback (P. fridmani) is a GREAT marine fish. Basslets, grammas, small wrasses such as a six line all make great fish or a tank that size. The pygmy angel (C. argi) or the flame back angel (C. acanthops) are also good candidates if added last.
Stay away from anything that gets larger than 4", especially if they are active fish.
Cheers
Jim***

46 Gal. Bow front Setup
Thank you very much for the prompt reply.  My follow-up question is this; if you don't mind.  The maxi-jet 1200 attached to the urchin skimmer is approx. 295 gph.  Is this the rating that I should look at matching the Mag pump too?
Also,  the pipe draining from the overflow box is 3/4".  Should the return from the sump be larger, smaller or the same?
Michael Oteri
>>>Hello again Michael,
The flow rate of your skimmer and the flow rate of your return pump are unrelated. As I said I'm not sure off the top of my head which model exactly would be appropriate for you, you'll have to look into them a bit.
A 3/4 return line is plenty.
Cheers
Jim<<<

Total Confusion... in a marine set-up... one step... at... a... time
Bob,
<Rich>
I have read numerous articles and responses from you and I really need your  
advice.
<Okay>
I have a 7 mo old 210 Gallon All Glass aquarium. My goal is for a gorgeous  
reef with some fish. The retailer I used has since gone out of business and I  
feel Lost. First of all he filled my 2 overflows with bioballs to cut the
noise  down and now I find that all Glass has made a mega flow kit to do the same.
<You might consider going with this new kit>
The  flow in my tank is horrible. I don't know how to measure it but my return
make  very little action in my tank.
<There are a few ways to calculate, measure the flow... the easiest and most accurate may be using a bucket/container of a known volume and using a time-measuring device to see how many seconds it takes to fill... calculate how many gallons this might be per hour...>
I have added 2 Maxi 1200 but it does not
seem to  help. I am using an Amp Master 2100. I also have a ecosystem 3616
(the big unit)  with MM. I can seem to get rid of the red slime algae. I have
very poor flow.
<Likely related events, eh?>
I  had razor Caulerpa that died and I now have Chaeto (spaghetti)
that is not growing)  My phosphates keep rising even though I am using nitrate
remover (very expensive  $80 shot) from tropic Marin. I recently was told to
use the two little fishes  product with a reactor. (I have an old fluidized bed
from rainbow in my garage.
<This will not likely help>
  My plumbing is a nightmare. It goes from 1 1/2 to
many elbows to 3/4. It splits  and 1 side goes right to the return while the
other goes thru a 25 watt  AQUA UV then to the other return.
<Time to have someone come on out and take a look it sounds like... Are you familiar with a marine club in your area? Have you tried the various marine aquarium BBs on the net in attempts to locate a "guru" friend who will help you? This is strongly recommended>
I have 2 400watt
MH from Hamilton  10,000k. The center of my tank looks darker.
<It may well be... this is likely more a matter of aesthetic concern than functional... you could move the placement of the MHs... higher, closer... or add another light...>
I have 2 blue
actinic as well. My  temp hovers between 80-83. I have no chiller as of yet.
<Doesn't sound necessary to me>
I am confused what size  and which to buy. It must either go under cabinet or
next to unit.
<... If it were my system and the temp.s were about what you state, I would not buy, use a chiller... if the temp. is much higher than mid 80's on a given day or two, you can float a frozen milk container of water or even add a block of ice to this size system... in your sump>
I was told  Arctica might be best for me. My fans in the hood are
Radio shack, and I was told  the other day to watch out for fires.
<If installed properly, this is not a real possibility>
I have 325lb
live rock.
I love this hobby. Fish all doing well as are easy to keep corals. I don't  
know whether to get rid of MM and just use sand. Skimmer- Leaning toward Aqua C,  
Calcium reactor?
<Reactors are very worthwhile, but I urge you to "practice" with supplements for a while... months to a few years... learn to use test kits, come to understandings of what the parameters are, their meaning/interactions>
I would eventually like to keep clams.
<A very nice choice>
If you could guide my with equip, plumbing etc, I could keep from pulling  my
hair out.
Rich
<Am glad to help... please do consider reaching out locally to have a more-experience reefer come and check out your system at this point/junction... and not panic, focus on buying things... You and your system will be fine with some more serious contemplation, involvement. Bob Fenner>
Additionally
I was told to go to sequence pump, maybe Tunze stream. Quiet is  important
Rich
<These are both fine product lines... and useful pumps, powerheads if you want such that are quiet and powerful. Bob Fenner>

- OEM Manuals -
Hi,
Thanks for the past, present, and future advice. You've saved me and others lots of time and money. Speaking of money... Being the cheapskate my wife accuses me of, I have either purchased my gear used or otherwise (eBay). 75gal tank & stand, Amiracle Mudd Filter, (any opinions on these?), Excalibur Hang-On. I am in the process of setting up the tank with a DSB of 3" fine aragonite covered with 1" of CaribSea Live sand and 65lbs of live rock. I also have 6 x 55w CF in the canopy. 4 10000k, 2 50/50 actinic. My question is this. Do you know of any websites or retailers that can supply us (cheapskates) with instruction manuals from various brands? <Best bet is to contact the manufacturer or insist on getting one with the used item you purchase - if the owner can't supply one, don't purchase it.> Amiracle seems to have disappeared off the planet, and the Excalibur people stopped talking to me when they found out I bought the skimmer used. My skimmer came with a broken Rio pump (Good luck from all I've heard about them), so I purchased a Maxi-jet 1200 to use. When I hooked up the Maxi-jet I got hardly any bubbles in the skimmer body at all, and the venturi air inlet started spitting water out. Is there another adapter I need to use the Maxi-jet? <I'm only familiar with the one supplied with this pump.> Or do I have it hooked up wrong? <Could be too low in the water column - that venturi need to be pretty close to the surface of the water to draw in air.> Thanks again, Free advice from you guys is what allows us financially challenged people to enjoy this hobby as well.
Tad
<Cheers, J -- >