MarSetUp13

FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 13


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Starting Up Good Evening Crew: I am re-kindling an interest in the hobby after a long hiatus (had smaller freshwater aquariums for many years). I would like to try a fish-only marine set-up with some of the more interesting (and hopefully) hardier specimens. I have ordered Bob's book - it's on it's way and I will truly take to heart the advice on your pages about compatibility/number of critters, feeding etc. etc. That seems like the easier part. What is daunting to someone coming in to the hobby at this time-frame is the amount and choices of equipment to not only set-up the aquarium but also to maintain it properly. I believe I have a good LFS available to me - the Marine Scene in Reston, Virginia is very close to my house but I was wondering if you had sort of a stock list for someone with bare bones parameters starting out, ie., a 100-125 gallon tank, fish-only, interest in the proper number of some of the more "aggressive" characters - triggers, tangs, lions, morays (zebra, snowflake) but not totally wedded to that and that's pretty much it. I really have spent time looking at some of your articles and FAQs and the head starts to spin with the discussions of the equipment. So, my long-winded question is: I was wondering if you were going to send me to the Marine Scene or on the web to buy equipment (after the 100-125 g tank and stand) is there a stock list of what you would hope I would come home with to properly set-up and maintain the thing? Opinions of any models to particularly seek out would also be greatly appreciated. I know you have probably answered a form of this question a thousand or so times but as I look in the FAQ's the question is usually in the form of seeking an opinion of the equipment they already have. I appreciate your time very much. David <Hi David! Wow, sounds like a fun project! My best advice is to search on the fish you want to keep (so far large aggressive mess makers!) on WetWebMedia.com (just scroll to the bottom and enter each fish individually in the google search) and follow the advise on each for tank size, manner of filtration, etc. and size the fish and type of system to your potential inhabitants. This way you are providing the proper conditions for your wish list. As far as purchasing equipment, the on-line retailers can save you considerable expense up-front but your LFS is there to provide service as well. I would give them the opportunity to provide a "bid" on your system compared to the on-line dealers. Factor in shipping and the support and convenience of your LFS too! For the fish you are looking at, (subject to change) I would stock conservatively as the fish you list tend to be large, eat lots of food and make lots of wastes. Live Rock and deep aragonite sand beds possibly with a large capacity wet/dry filter, perhaps a sump and definitely a large efficient protein skimmer. The favorites of the crew and most on WWF is AquaC and Euro-Reef skimmers. For more information on this without reading FAQ's, go to WetWebMedia.com and read the marine stocking and set-up pages at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Please do not hesitate to write if you have any further questions. Craig>

SOS! Power Outage! Hi crew: We are in the midst of a power outage here in CA after a really bad storm. The power has been off now for over 6 hours. We have a generator (small!) and have our two tanks hooked up to it. We are leaving it on for 1/2 hour and then off for 1/2 hour. We have to tanks - one 60 gallon with 7 small (including four really small ) fish. The other 30 gallon has 4 fish 2 clowns and two really really tiny fish we put in last night when the power went out. Each tank has a 401 Fluval and a skimmer and thermometer. It's about 60-65 degrees here. The big tank also has two power heads, the small one one powerhead. Question: How long can these fish go without the generator? It is smelly and noisy and only holds one gallon of gas. Can you let me know right away as we are in the midst of this crisis which started at midnight here. Thanks. Connie Cavan <Hi Connie, I hope I'm getting to you in time! Keep the noisy smelly thing running! I would just plug em' in and let em' run. I had to do this for 9 days.....you'll have power soon! At least you know the neighbors won't complain, their power is out too! Good luck, Craig>

Saltwater Beginner Thanks for a terrific and informative website. <Welcome Tom!> I am new to the saltwater hobby (30G FOWLR going for about 6 weeks now), and have a few beginners questions: 1) I added a four-stripe damsel, three peppermint shrimp, and an emerald crab, along with 15 lbs of live rock, about a week and a half after adding the water and 1.5" crushed coral. Everything seemed fine...ammonia went up a little, never higher than .5 mg/L, and went to ~0 a week and a half after adding the fish et al. Nitrate has slowly climbed to ~10 mg/L. How do I get Nitrate to 0? I've been keeping to about 5G water change/week. <Water changes, cleaning filtration, sponges, etc.> 2) Though I measured everyday for the first three weeks, I never detected any Nitrite, even though I saw Ammonia go down and Nitrate go up. How did I miss the Nitrite? I used Biozyme to help get things going. <You have misunderstood the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is converted to nitrites. Nitrates are converted to nitrates which is what you are measuring now. It takes time for the ammonia to be converted to nitrates, that is when you missed them...about week two. The measurement of nitrates indicates your nitrogen cycle is complete.> 3) 3 weeks into this adventure, I added 5 lbs more liverock and two tank-raised ocellaris clowns. Water numbers have stayed good- no ammonia, no nitrate, <You mean nitrite? Nitrates are at 10 according to your testing.> never more than 10 mg/L nitrate. However, right around the time I added the clowns, the damsel developed lymphocystis. It got worse for about a week and a half (one large growth at base of one gill fin, small growths at tips of dorsal and pectoral fins), and now, just in the last few days, seems to have gotten a little better (large growth is just about gone). Should I FW dip him to try to "pop" the remaining growths? What likely caused the outbreak? The clowns are as symptomatic. <Water quality and a new unstable system contributed to the lympho. Not atypical for a new tank/unstable environment. I would target water quality first , then go to: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm and read through the FAQs. I wouldn't add any more fish until you stabilize your environment.> 4) Down the road a bit, I'd like to add one more fish. Is my setup able to provide adequately for a flame or coral beauty angle? I definitely want to wait until the damsel is clean for a month or two, and until I have more experience managing the water, but please tell me now, so I don't get my heart set on one I can't have. Thanks for your advice. My copy of the Conscientious Marine Aquarist is on it's way from Amazon.com. Tom <You may be able to add one of these smaller Angels, but be aware they can territorial and be prepared if it doesn't work out. There is much more on this subject at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/stocking1.htm Start there and follow the links. There is also more on the nitrogen cycle at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/biological/biofiltr.htm This will get you straightened out! Good luck, Craig>

New Tank Set-Up (5 gallon) Dear Crew, I have just set-up a small (5 gallon) tank to get started on Marines after having freshwater aquariums for years. <This is a rather ambitious first tank. Tiny systems such as this are inherently unstable. Most people fail with these. You would be better off starting with something in the 30 gallon range.> I have just stumbled across your website for the first time and must admit it is by far one of the best I have come across, there is not much you don't have. I have been using the Baensch Marine Atlas as my bible during start-up (on loan). Anyway, I followed all the advice from my local retailer regarding set-up and fish introduction but have had a few problems. I believe I introduced fish too early (water not mature enough) although my Nitrite was <0.3mg/l, pH of 8.3 and salinity of 1.021-1.022, temp. 25 degs. <Before fish should have been introduced ammonia and nitrite should have both been zero.> I introduced a couple of Percula Clowns after a few weeks but within 2 days I had lost them. <The term a couple kind of scares me. This is only a five gallon tank. I could not recommend two clownfish for this size tank. You could perhaps safely keep two very small gobies, but definitely no other fish.> I checked my water quality and everything was okay (same values as above), <As I said, ammonia and nitrite must be zero.> so I then introduced a small Sailfin Tang <Oh my God!> and a cleaner shrimp (local store says it should be okay) <What an idiot! Do you know that this fish reaches over a foot in length, about 40 cm. Shame on your store for selling you such an inappropriate fish for such a small tank, and also shame on you for not researching the needs of your pets prior to purchase. You have the Baensch's Atlas. Please use it.> so thirty odd quid and 2 days later I have also lost my Tang but the cleaner is happy (even molted first week). It has been 2 weeks since the cleaner shrimp became my only tank mate and is doing great. I have also just added a small Eheim internal filter to filter charcoal just in case of some impurities in the water and add additional water current, and I still do not have any green algae growing anywhere in the tank! <This is not necessarily a good thing. You want to grow some algae.> Tank Set-up: 5 gallon capacity with a Squirt Sea-Storm for biological filtration (capable of biologically filtering 30 gallons), coral sand as substrate, Tuffa rock as decor, wooden airstone, and recently a small Eheim internal filter to filter charcoal and add current. Small fluorescent light (but still no algae growth). I was advised that I did not require a protein skimmer if I was doing the 10% water changes weekly. <There are not many made for such a tiny tank, but Sander's made a skimmer called the Piccola that would work.> I also carry out a minimum 10% water change once a week with declorinated tap water which I aerate for a couple of days beforehand and bring up to temperature with boiling water from the kettle before I add it to the tank. <The boiling water is bad. It is a good way to add metals and possibly soap from the cookware.> I used a bottle of de-ionised water from the local garage for the first water change (I presume de-ionised water is de-ionised water, no matter where it came from?). <You mean from like a automobile repair garage? I guess it might be ok, but it would make me nervous.> So, after my first few weeks experience I could have very easily have gave up, but I didn't. Instead, I decided to jump in with both feet and set up a bigger sized marine tank <Oh good! You will likely be far more successful, but do educate yourself and do not rely on this same store for advice.> at considerable expense (over a grand so far and I haven't even bought a fish yet!), so I have to make it work or I will be choosing between the missus or the fish (if the wife only had gills, eh). I still have not added the water as of yet (want to make sure everything is okay first) but the set-up is a Juwel Trigon 190 tank, using the built-in Juwel filter for water current and mechanical filtration. <We just got a question the other day with a section cut and pasted from Juwel saying that this person's particular model tank and filter was not designed or deemed appropriate for marines. You may want to contact Juwel directly.> I have added an Ehein 2227 external wet/dry trickle filter with Ephisubstrat for Biological filtration, a Sea-Clone protein skimmer, external Fluval 204 filtering through Bottom: left over Ephisubstrat, Middle: super activated carbon (1 week with, 3 weeks without) and still undecided about the final medium (top). I was going to use Crushed Dolomite (Baensch recommendation) for its Phosphate binding capacity, but have since read elsewhere that it may actually poison the tank with other contaminants and I should use Calcium Carbonate instead, can you recommend anything? I was just going to use crushed marble to help keep the Carbonate Harness high as the wet/dry is doing the biological filtration, and I can't source Crushed Dolomite anywhere (is this an old medium that the hobby has moved on from?). <Yes, dolomite does not dissolve (buffer) until the pH of the water has dropped to 7.6. At that point, must marine life has already perished, so buffering is useless then.> The substrate is app. 1 inch of coral sand and the d?or is 25Kg of Tuffa rock. I am also using Instant Ocean sea-salt in my small tank and intend to use the same in the new tank (I believe this is a quality salt!). <It is the brand I use and recommend.> Is there anything else that I could or should do to this tank? Finally. I have decided I am going to use my 5 gallon tank as a quarantine tank only (leaving in the cleaner shrimp), <The quarantine idea is excellent, but the permanent resident shrimp is not. Please search through www.WetWebMedia.com regarding these issues.> so I am not introducing parasites, chemicals, etc. to the "showtank". But, I fear I am doing something wrong and will put fish into quarantine which never make it out of quarantine alive or spend more than the 6-8 weeks quarantine period in the tank because they are poorly, etc. <You will be able to quarantine small fish in a five gallon tank, but just one at a time and I would strongly recommend the use of a sponge filter.> Can somebody PLEASE, PLEASE help me out as the more I read up on the hobby the more confused I am getting, and you guys obviously know what you are doing. I know with this hobby I am constantly going to be learning all the time but I fear I am doing something wrong at the start which is going to inevitably result in failure. Could you also recommend a good marine fish book. <See above> Thanks in advance! Yours in anticipation, Davie <Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Re: New Tank Set-Up (5 gallon) Hi Steve (you are probably going to get fed up hearing from me) <We shall see. :)> Thanks very much for the quick response, EXCELLENT to be able to deal with people who know what they are talking about. I wish I had come across you guys before I naively believed everything my local store had to feed me (I could kick myself), <It never ceases to amaze me how easily people believe pet store sales people. No one ever questions there level of knowledge or their motivation. No knock on you, just an interesting observation I have seen/made. The same people would not trust a car sales person as far as they could throw them, but pet store workers are a different thing. I wonder why that is?> and spent all my hard-earned money in their store, but these guys believe it or not are supposedly the best in my area. I am going to take your advice and return my protein skimmer and purchase a "real" one. What make/model would you recommend as my tank is in my living room and although I want to see skimmate I don't want to have to put in ear-plugs either. <We have written volumes on protein skimmers. Please look at www.WetWebMedia.com for all the information you could possibly desire.> I am also going to contact Juwel regarding the tank first thing tomorrow. Regards to the Sailfin Tang that I mentioned earlier, this was purchased on the advise of the store staff (who are supposedly long term experienced hobbyists) which has helped me to immediately come to the conclusion that (apart from them being muppets) I will definitely not be back near their store. <This was truly awful advise, but if they have high quality livestock, perhaps you can still use them. Just be sure to do your homework ahead of time.> As all aquarists, I hate losing a perfectly good, healthy fish especially if I could have prevented it. I made a big BooBoo here. <A lesson learned and not to be repeated, I hope. Know what you can house and what you want to buy before walking into the pet shop.> Thanks again Steve your advice is very much appreciated. Davie R <Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Marine Aquarium set-up I was referred to this site by a friend and can't believe my good fortune! <excellent... welcome aboard, my friend> I'm totally new to the salt water aquarium hobby and have been taking my time and have been reading EVERYTHING I can get my hands on for the last year. <does that mean you have a subscription to High Times magazine?> I want to do this right for myself and for the sake of the critters I intend to keep. <admirable and as it should be> I was excited to see Bob Fenner's name associated with the site since out of everything I've read, I believe The Conscientious Marine Aquarist was the most helpful to me. <yes... I agree that it is one of the most accurate, important and influential works of its kind> After all my reading which includes many titles, I set out to begin my 75 gallon reef tank. I built the stand, set up my quarantine tank(s) and was on my way until I had the first problem rear its ugly head in an aspect I hadn't for a moment thought would be an issue. I can't get a clean mix of the saltwater. <as in not crystal clear?> I've tried EVERYTHING!!! I'm at the point now where I've got to believe that I'm scrutinizing the mixture too closely. Should there be residual "particles" of inert material in the water that just doesn't dissolve? <indeed some occur... inevitable> If I siphon my saltwater out of my Rubbermaid garbage can (cleaned religiously with white vinegar and rinsed) into my 20 gallon glass tank (also clean), after a short time (maybe a day), there will be a fine powder coating on the bottom of the tank along with a few bigger bits of stuff that looks kind of ash-like. <insoluble carbonates... no biggie here either> If the powerhead is running, this particulate will be suspended and upon very close examination, the tank resembles a snow globe. <are you sure the substrate isn't being agitated as well?> I've used normal tap water, RO water from a place in town that's "never heard of this problem" ( I live in Montana and there's not a lot of salt water knowledge close at hand), <agreed... Ron Shimek's home state> and now water from an RO/DI set up that I bought and installed. Same deal. I've used salt from 3 different sources of Instant Ocean and sent a sample from my last batch back to the company along with my water specs to have them examine it. It tested fine. <wow... you are way too involved/fixated here my friend. If it puts your mind at ease, simply buy a micron filter (Diatom type filter or HOT magnum with a pleated micron cartridge) and sleep well. It will polish the tank nicely> I've mixed in warm and cold water both. <ACKKK! Never warm... Always draw cold and heat slowly, aerate> Same results. This last time (I'm now at my wit's end) I mixed the salt slowly over about an hour to no avail. I have the 32 gallon mixing garbage can constantly circulating with a powerhead while mixing, and I also stir the salt in with a piece of PVC pipe that's been cleaned too. <have you been adding (excessive) buffer to the RO water in advance. Else, I can see little cause for concern> While I was expecting a learning curve, this is ridiculous!! I'm not even in the game yet and I find myself at my first hurdle! Should I just ignore this and proceed? <my friend... you need to relax. This is a very organic hobby and some processes take time. Add the salted water to the tank, filter the tank well and all will be fine. Instant Ocean is also the salt I use. In my greenhouse (coral farm) I bought it 8,000 gall mix pallets at a time. Over ten years, I have gone through a lot of IO salt and assure you that they deserve their impeccable reputation. And if you can tolerate or even enjoy my sense of humor <G>, do consider my Book of Coral Propagation as a good overview of modern reef-keeping. The first 200 pages (of 450) are the fundamentals of reefing> If whomever receives this could give me even a brief answer, I'd be very appreciative. Sincerely, JIM COX <best regards, Anthony Calfo>

new plan (marine set-up) Hi Guys, As I waited for your reply, and thank you for it Craig, I was already rethinking the sump/refugium. I would like to combine the two concepts as I 'm limited in space, but I understand that there must be compromises. I realize that 1000 GPH is way too high for a refugium. With your input, this plan continues to evolve. Here is my new and, hopefully, improved version. Consider the landlord issue resolved…thanks. <Oh, that's very good.....> The 75 will house a couple of neon gobies, a small (3-5) school of blue Chromis, a Golden Hamlet and a Harlequin Bass(let), along with the LR and it 's accompanying corals and some gorgonians. I have read (Calfo) that the gorgonians need at least a 20X flow on the tank. OK. <That Calfo guy knows his stuff. Can be 20X over the gorgonians themselves....they need high flow to flush them of slime/algae depending in variety. IOW, you could have one (or more) outlet(s) of higher flow that are aimed at gorgonians to do this. 20X overall probably won't be a problem with enough rock/places to hide and get out of currents.> The seahorse tank will need a very modest flow as will the refugium. My "solution", if workable, will be to run about 300 GPH, "teed" to an external pump, out of the main tanks, up into the sump/refugium, and overflow back to the main tanks. In the 75, to achieve greater circulation, run a closed loop with about 6 outlets off a dedicated 900-1000 GPH external pump. <No room below all of this for a small Rubbermaid sump? It would be an out of sight place for all these pumps, etc. and the skimmer could go in there freeing up refugium space... I know, I know....believe me I know!> The reason I want the sump/refugium above the main tanks is to allow undamaged pods, etc. to be gravity fed to the main tanks. <Very good my friend> I checked on overflows and a 300 GPH uses 1- ?" bulkhead and 600-800 GPH units use 1-1" bulkhead. Even with only 300 GPH I think I'd use a 1" bulkhead. <Absolutely, and for the price of plumbing, even a size larger won't hurt.> Oh, how about if I move the passive carbon to a narrow chamber right after the skimmer, but before the "biologicals"? Does this sound better? <Much better!> More changes? I want to get the plan right before I spend money and time only to redo the whole thing. <You are a wise man.> Thanks so much for you insights and critique, Mike <Sounds much better Mike, good luck with your project! Craig>

Where do I begin... I recently purchased a Perfecto 28 gal. Euro (Bow) tank. The dimensions are 24 x 16.5 (at center and 12.5 at sides) x 18. I will be using a Lifereef overflow to a refugium. Where would you recommend the placement of the overflow? Since the tank is only 24" long I was figuring in the center on the back wall. Would I be better off putting it to a corner and getting a 1/2" Seaswirl stumpy on the opposite end? <Either way would work. Set it up to get the maximum skimming and circulation and the look and circulation you need for the inhabitants of the tank.> Does anyone have any experiences with this sea swirl? Would this Seaswirl be enough circulation in the tank. I have never used or even seen a Seaswirl in action but it definitely looks like it might be a worthwhile investment. <Many people use Seaswirls and recommend them. They need a specific flow rate to work that *might* be higher than your needed 280 gallons per hour (10 X volume) so a powerhead(s) or closed circulation might be another idea for you. Jump over to one of the WetWebMedia.com sponsors and take a look at the Seaswirls to see what the flow rate needs to be for them to work.> For the refugium under the tank I was considering a 15 or 16 high (20 x 10x 19). But Perfecto also makes a 20xh with dimensions of 20 x 10 x 24. Will I get any benefits in the added height in the 20 gal.? <Yes. If this is to also act as a refugium, more size and volume will help slow the flow through the refugium, which needs to turnover much less than the main tank. Also, Remoras are tall and need the height to hang....> I will be sectioning off the refugium and putting an Aqua C Remora in the sump as my PS. As far as lighting is concerned, I have a 175 watt MH and actinic pendant in storage. I don't want to use a chiller so this will probably stay in storage or be sold. I have been looking at PC retros and can't decide if 2 x 55 watt or 3 x 55 will be better. I don't plan on keeping anything difficult in the tank in regards to coral. MAYBE a BTA and/or a Maxima if I get the nerve to, but after a year of setup at least. <For a 28 you could use the MH with fan(s) and be alright, depending on how high above the water it is hung, where you are located (Florida, Arizona?), etc. I doubt you will be any better off heat wise with the PC's you have in mind. And that Maxima would want the light.> In regards to fish I will have a pair of T Percula Clowns, red sea mimic blenny, a six line or flasher wrasse, I know this is a lot of questions and much of it if not all has been discussed in other threads but it seems every situation tend to be a little different. I literally have boxes of stuff that local LFS's have recommended and is not being used. I have been out of the hobby for about ten years and quite a bit has changed. My 58 had a trickle filter, ozone with PS, and UV ( all in a box) . I have started reading quite a bit to 'get up to speed'. Thank you in advance <No problemo, you're doing great, have a blast! Craig>

75 Gallon set-up Hello! Thanks for your quick response the other day! Wow, it amazes me the stuff I learn everyday on your site. Thanks for such a great site. Okay, down to business. I've decided to go with the 75 gallon AGA with overflow into a 20 gallon sump with a Aqua-C EV-120 Skimmer powered by either a Mag 5 or Dolphin. The return pump was going to be a Mag7 (any other suggestions?) <Something larger> returning up the AGA pre-drilled bulkhead leading to the back middle of the tank (via PVC, size 3/4"?) <I would use the Mag-Drive 12 and bring the water up in 1 1/2" PVC to a T and a loop around the top of the tank. You can build the loop out of 1" PVC with four to six outlets made of 3/4" or 1/2" to maintain pressure. We really need to take and post some pictures of the loop idea.> attaching to a 3/4" Sea Swirl. <These are nice, but not necessary, a interesting toy.> I was going to place 2 Maxi-jet 1200s on the two sides of the tank facing toward the middle. <Avoid powerheads whenever possible.> 1. Will this be enough gph for a FO then moving to a SPS/clam tank in a few months? If not can you give me some suggestions? <See above> 2. I am also planning on buying a retrofit fixture MH (2-175 watt 10,000K) and PC (2-96 watt Actinics) onto a 12" high DIY canopy. Will this be enough for what I am planning to do? <Sounds excellent! Just be sure to get good lamps/bulbs. You can find many recommendations searching through www.WetWebMedia.com> Thanks again, Andrew <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Water Change Confusion.... Greetings! I wrote in yesterday and wanted to thank you for the help! Alas, I have more questions that I would really appreciate some help with. For a quick refresher I am an old freshwater hobbyist who has been suddenly thrust in saltwater with no preparation. I am learning everything as quickly as I can. <May I suggest Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium." It is a very good beginner book, fairly inexpensive, and not too long.> The setup that came into my hands was a 29 high with an Eclipse 2 and it will not fit any HOT skimmers nor will an inside unit work (tried the Visi-jet and there is just not enough room with that dastardly lid)-- this lid is the one with the wide lip that fits down onto the rim of the tank. There should be a big fat label that says "NOT FOR SALTWATER USE YOU SUCKERS!!!" <Did you ask everyone over on the message board about this retrofit, like I suggested yesterday? I know it has been done before.> I have decided upon hours of research to keep the tank and basically leave the system alone (it was up for 6 months) and stick with the wet/dry, powerheads, and make a 20% water change every 7-10 days since I can't get a skimmer in this setup. Is 20% about the right figure? <It sounds good, but I would not give up on the skimmer just yet.> I have found myself confused reference water changes even after reading the faq's and such and was hoping you could help me. The hydrometer reading is around 1.029 and I obviously need to lower it and want to make sure I understand what I have read. According to your guidelines I should not lower it more than .001 - .002 in a 24 hour period. <Yes, a good rule of thumb.> For a 29 gallon approximately what amount of freshwater should be added to achieve this? How exactly should I go about this? <See above> Should I pull a gallon of tank water out and then replace it with a gallon of pre-prepared freshwater straight to the tank <Bingo!> or would it be better to siphon off 3-4 gallons of existing tank water and mix the gallon of freshwater to it and then add it back in? <Much easier the other way. Just pour the freshwater in slowly allowing it time to mix in and not become a localized surge.> My next question is that to maintain a stable 1.024 - 1.025 for daily evaporative loss leveling I should only be using freshwater? <Correct> Is this due to the salts staying behind as the water evaporates so your S.G. would actually increase if you added pre-prepared saltwater? <Correct> So in other words using just the freshwater for top-off keeps you at a constant level as the salt stays as the water evaporates? <Yes> So my last question (just confirmation for warm fuzzies) would be that when doing my regular weekly water change it should be as close a match as possible for the tank's existing temp/spg? <Yep and you said you were not a saltwater person.> Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you guys again so very much! You have become an invaluable resource! Jaime Knapp <You are quite welcome. -Steven Pro>

new plan (marine system set-up) Hi guys, I was originally thinking of a 270 gal. (total volume) system. Since the basement of the house that this system would have to go in to is a long way off, I've re-thought the system to something I think I can put into my one bedroom apartment. I'm looking at a 75 gal. FOWLR tank and a 20 gal. high seahorse tank both connected to a 30 gal. sump/refugium (approx. the wt. of a king-size water bed). <Tell that to the landlord....the WB is spread over a larger area than an aquarium. Make sure you have the flooring/support you need and factor in a good amount of weight as a safety factor.> Both of these would be in the Caribbean biotope. I think that my first purchase will be the sump/ref. Since I'm thinking that my total circulation, eventually, should be at least 1000 GPH, I thought that I would use an Iwaki MD40RXLT. I'm looking at about 3' of head. Anyway, if I actually achieve 1000 GPH with whatever pump, what size overflow will I need? I plan to overflow this sump directly into whatever size PVC (sump higher than tanks). <Where will Iwaki be? Outside which tank or another sump? You have a hole in your plan. If your sump/ref. is higher than the tanks, then the tanks will both need pumps, or you will need a sump below the tanks with one common pump (like you planned) split into two or three outlets...one for the 75 (with appropriate size plumbing and valve for at least 750 gph, and another to the SH tank with valve sized to appropriate flow for seahorses, and perhaps another to your planned refugium idea. Pumping 1000gph through your 30 gal sump/refugium will not work, the flow rate is far too high.> Should I use two overflows as returns, i.e. one for each tank or tee one large overflow? Would an overflow box be better than a drilled situation (I think not, but I could be wrong <G>)? When I ask about what size overflow I mean how big should the diameter of the PVC be to handle the gravity fed overflow of the 1000 GPH (min.) pump? <When you get your plan worked out, check out one of the overflow box pages of our WetWebMedia.com sponsors and observe the size pipe they use for the flow each box is designed for. DO factor in perhaps one size larger and think about using two overflows per main tank, just in case.> Now, I plan to divide the sump/ refugium into 3 areas. From inflow to out flow they are as follows: One third of the tank devoted to skimmer (Tunze230/3), possibly Ca reactor, but more probably a Kalk doser. Also in this section a DSB an LR. The middle third of the tank will house 5 mangroves in mud raised above the bottom level of the tank to insure that the mangroves ore "part-in and part-out" of the water. Under the mangroves, in a relatively unlit area would be an Aiptasia "farm". Section 3 would be a DSB with Thalassia sp. in order to grow pods and phytoplankton. At the very end of the tank, before exiting to the main tanks would be a 2" wide area of passive carbon making sure the water is forced through that area rather than just "passing by". Maybe this should be at the upstream end of the tank? <Much good planning here. However, in order to take advantage of the benefit of the phyto, pods, etc. from your refugium, it has to be able to get into the mains.....carbon or filters will prohibit this. Refugiums are best *above* mains, passively overflowing into the mains from above and fed by a pump sized specifically to the flow needed by the refugium, not the mains or the sump. If you use a combo sump/refugium *below* the mains, then it needs to be considerably larger to handle the increased flow and a low sheer pump to keep the pods, etc. in good shape on their trip to the mains. You need some planning revision to make this work. I highly recommend Anthony Calfo's "Book of Coral Propagation"; it has some excellent illustrations of the type of system you are setting-up.> I think that if I start with the sump/ref. and get it to mature, I'll be much better off when the main tanks come into reality. Any input is great for me, thanks a lot, Mike <Just a couple of problems in the plan that you need to think out. When you try to combine the functions of two different tools (sumps and refugiums) there some compromises and or considerations regarding flow rate that must be made. I suggest a separate sump and refugium with pump(s) sized over and above needed flow rate and valved at the pump and at each tank outlet to control flow rate for each. The exact problem with your plan is: Refugiums are very slow turnover to replicate mangrove swamps and grass beds. 1000 gph through 30 gallons of sump/refugium is 33 times turnover. It can't work. You need to plan this part out... Craig>

VERY new to Marine... Bob... my wife and I just recently had a disaster with a freshwater setup. It was a 35gal hex with a very large powerhead/undergravel filter, plus an Eheim rated at 400 l/h ( 116 gal/hr). <Arrggg, sorry to hear about that!> The tank was old and split down one side.... big mess.. anyway.. we decided to buy a new tank, build a stand, and possibly go with saltwater. We will probably be moving out of the state in about 1 year or so, so I don't think we want to do anything huge.. but we love the colors. <If you are making a long distance move, best to be conservative with whatever you do, it's a bear to move a marine tank. Can be done, but many considerations and you will find marine fish are more animated and personable than FW fish....this makes it all the more difficult.> My wife and I have somewhat agreed on a 55 gal rectangle Oceanic aquarium. I just don't know if I have enough filtration. I was planning on using the Eheim that I have and use as much undergravel filtering as I could (I just like it), maybe 3 inches of "stuff" on the bottom. <You will need a protein skimmer and the Eheim is probably not large enough to filter the larger tank with a marine bio-load. You don't want the undergravel or just 3" of "stuff". More in a minute....> I'm ignorant. We're looking for something that is pretty, but easy. I know nothing is easy, but I'm quoting my wife, and I'm going to be doing the work anyway so just give it to me straight. What can we do? Is the Eheim enough? It currently has some charcoal and some sort of netting inside it. What should we put inside the filter.. <Many more considerations than this to be made...> I would be happy with Damsels or something simple. My wife's eyes bugged out when she saw all the colors of fish compared to fresh water... I've heard horror stories of how salt water is so hard, but then again... so is flying airplanes (remote control) and I've mastered that... SO..... where do I start... Thanks.. RK <Richard, I strongly advise that before you purchase anything, you go out and purchase "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert Fenner. There are other good books that can help as well, but just this one book will save you untold sums of poorly spent cash and save any prospective marine pets needless suffering. I'll bet there was some reading and basic info on RC planes too before you purchased one and got it in the air.... Do take your time, NOTHING crashes faster and harder than a speeding marine tank. They are a lot of fun if you take your time and avoid the mistakes. Craig>

Eclipse 25High Woes Good Sir, <Steven Pro in this afternoon.> I wanted to take a quick moment and thank you and your crew for the fantastic site. I have been reading everything over like mad and have a feeling I will be spending a lot of time on your site! Is there anyway your internet community users can help support the site? <There is a little used link at the bottom of the main page for Amazon Honor System. It is a method of donating/supporting to the webpage. We would, of course, appreciate anything anyone could donate.> Now that the appropriate Brown-Nosing was done I can move onto pumping you for information, just kidding. <Ask away> I am an Arizona desert native and as such have rarely seen water in a greater accumulation that can be found in a back yard pool. Besides or because of this I got into freshwater fish several years ago (10) and have successfully kept many tanks for a number of years. One of my "Bala Sharks" is about 4 years old and almost a foot in length. Anyways, through fate and fortune a 25High/Eclipse 2 tank/stand recently came into my possession. The current setup includes about 20 pounds of live rock and a crushed coral (fine grain) sand plus 2 damsels, 1 goby (now RIP) and a puffer. The hardware setup on pickup included the Eclipse2 hood with 1 Broad Spectrum/1 Actinic light. In addition there was a large powerhead with a prefilter in the tank. I tried to fit a Visi-Jet Skimmer into the tank but it won't fit without me slicing up the hood nor will any HOT skimmers fit with this darned Eclipse lid. <I have heard of a few individuals that have been able to cut the back of the hood to accomodate a HOT skimmer. I think a few members of our message board of completed this retrofitting. You can find the message board here http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/> Is it possible to keep this tank healthy and fit by using only the Eclipse wet/dry filter and powerhead as long as I do a good 5% water change every week? <Possible, but a skimmer would be useful.> If so, should I pull out the bio-wheel and fill the space with some mechanical (sponge, etc) filter for further mechanical filtration and pray that the rock and frequent small water changes will keep my levels where they should be? Also, it seems from reading that I shouldn't use the carbon for more than a few days a month. Do you think the small amounts of trace elements that the carbon will pull if left in all the time really warrant only using it for small periods of time or does it have more to do with crappy carbon leaching phosphates? <I think people worry too much about trace elements being removed. You hear the same arguments against skimmers. In reality, our tanks are very dissimilar to the ocean. We have far less lighting, far less water movement, and generally and tanks are far more polluted. I understand the desire to attempt to replicate nature with the use of refugiums, but we must identify and compensate (with water changes, protein skimming, activated carbon, etc.) where the two are different.> The only other options I see are to invest in a under the tank skimmer, which would run me more than I spent on the aquarium and seems overkill for this little tank or to buy a new hood which would allow the use of a HOT skimmer but again I would be spending as much as trading some existing 30G/Stands in an upgrading to a larger tank. What would you suggest? <Do see if anyone can walk you through the retrofit on our message board.> Thank you so kindly for the education and for your direct/indirect help in these matters! Jaime Knapp - Desert Rat Extraordinaire <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

question regarding aquarium purchases from overseas Can you or your staff recommend any overseas dealers where I can buy marine filter equipment and lighting? I've been looking at some online dealers for my Power compact lighting and a Berlin system sump, but it's so expensive. I was hoping that If I were to buy from Canada or Japan I may be able to save big bucks. Have you heard of any people doing this before, and if so who can I contact? <Good question... as far as I'm aware there is no better deal to be had than just buying (even imported) products of these kinds w/in the country... A few problems of freight, payment (many co.s don't take credit cards), suitability of electrics... Not worth "bringing in yourself"... But, I could easily be wrong... Do ask this question on the various BB's... of other hobbyists who've tried/done this. Ours: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ Bob Fenner> Thanks, James

Re: Converting an Oceanic 75 Trickle Filter to a reef-type sump Mini-Reef Conversion (Pt. II) Thank you for a quick response your valuable info. I will take your references and research my problem a little better. I'm thinking my set-up requires a total re-engineering. <Scott F. filling in for Bob today> Here's my set-up specs: 75 gal. Oceanic Show tank Oceanic 75 Trickle Filter Berlin Turbo hang-on skimmer 1-802 powerhead 1-400 series Powersweep powerhead (which stopped its sweeping motion in about a month even after cleaning) 1-Rio 600 pump <Powerheads seem to be a necessary and unreliable evil! They transfer heat to the water, and are prone to mechanical failure. Perhaps you should investigate more reliable (and unfortunately, expensive) methods, such as utilizing external top-mounted pumps like Tunze Turbelles, or investigate creating a closed loop system. Check out this link: http://wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm for lots more information on circulation in reef systems.> Lighting: 1- 96w 10,000k power compact 1- 96w 5,500k actinic power compact 2- 65w SmartLite (50% actinic/50% 10,000k) <Suitability depends on the type of corals you plan to keep. Research their light requirements and stock accordingly, or modify your lighting as needed> approx. 50lbs live rock approx. 50lbs home made Aragocrete rock (copied from G.A.R.F.'s web site) +5" of crushed coral over a Plenum (w/1" gap between the glass & the crushed coral) <FYI: Plenum proponents, such as Bob Goemans and Sam Gamble, seem to recommend a layer of sand that is four inches above the plenum, assuming that you are using crushed coral or other material with a grain size of 2-4mm. Apparently, the thought is that this combination of depth and grain size provides the ideal gradient. Do read more on this method, though.> Livestock: I donated most of my stock to my cousins Fish-only set-up. Here's what remains: 1-Yellow tail damsel 1-Three striped damsel 1-purple ribbon coral ~10 Astrea snail ~10 left-handed hermit crabs 5-Scarlet reef hermit crabs 1-Brittle starfish I plan to remove all the inhabitants, temporarily, to my cousins tank. Remove about half of the man-made Aragocrete rock (w/the exception of some really nice caves I made) Add approx. 100 lbs of uncured Live rock (w/all the nasty critters removed). <if it were me, I'd try to cure the rock in a container other than the aquarium (like a plastic garbage pan, etc) facilitating easy removal of the waste products produced during curing..> Convert the trickle filter, among other things after I finish reading! <Good! keep reading-you're on he right track!> I hope I can count on you for some more advice. It means a lot to me. Thanks, Lou Agostino <Thanks for stopping by! Feel free to contact Bob or any of the crew in the future with your questions!>

Setting Up Hi Mr. Fenner <Scott F. Here for Bob, Who's at a trade show> Although I had book marked this site I had never gone through the Faq's and I never knew you were replying them!!!! I have read your book, and it's the reason I started this fascinating adventure of trying to keep a reef tank. Just finished the set-up (I live in Rhodes island GREECE) therefore I can't tell you how difficult is to get anything here. All my equipment come from the states (Lifereef and Marine Depot), although the real problem is with the living organisms, since they must be shipped from Athens individually ( plus the fact that not all species are imported ! and Of course selection is based on the seller, since physical presence is impossible due to work/distance (45 min plane). Local LFS are only three and only sell Fresh water tanks. <You are very devoted to your fish!> But nevertheless I am determined to make everything work. You see what your book can do to some people ? <It had the same effect on me, too!> One small question though? Should I use a UV in a Reef Tank ? If yes all the time or add a timer and operate periodically ? <UV is quite effective at reducing the numbers of free-floating microorganisms like parasites, bacteria, algae, etc. Although not 100% necessary, UV sterilizers are very useful in a reef system.> Also I intend to add a refugium. The sump has the bulkhead ready, but due to my limited options I can only add the aragonite substrate and some live rocks. Will that do anything ? <Yes! These materials will support populations of amphipods and copepods over time> I would like to see some organisms populate in there, since in the future I would like to keep a mandarin fish ! <You are on the right track!> The substrate I am using is called Natures ocean (Bio active aragonite sand)! It's supposed to be alive and have all the required micro organisms required to fertilize the sand ? have you heard of them before ? <I am familiar with this product. It really provides nitrifying bacteria, not infauna, such as amphipods, worms, etc. Live rock/rubble can be used to "inoculate" your system with a population of these creatures> In case that doesn't work I had a suggestion by someone to just go out to the sea ( I do live on an island although not tropical ) and get some sand from about 10-15 meters in the sea. that should have the required organisms . What do you think ? <I'd personally use the live rock as a source of these animals, rather than local sand organisms, which will probably not make it in a tropical tank> Well once I again I would like to thank you for your help which I got from your book. My set-up is as follows. 150 AGA Gallon Tank 4 X 1200 Power Heads plus 2 Sea swirls. Lifereef sump w/protein skimmer w/calcium reactor/ Neptune controller, 2x250 MH, 2x140 watt 03 chiller, 40watt UV take care, Kostas <Kostas, thank you for contacting us! And, you may want to get a copy of Anthony Calfo's excellent "Book of Coral Propagation", which will address many of the questions that you have in greater detail. Good Luck!>

90 Gallon Set-Up Hello WWM gang! Just a couple of questions regarding a 90 gallon All-glass tank: 1. I was interesting in the Modern Series Oak stand and canopy (48x18). I want to go the MH route and I am not sure what the best way to install these is. Can I buy a retro-fit kit (2-175 watt 10,000 K Aqualine MH with PC Actinics) and install it to the top of the canopy (I think the canopy height is something like 6-7" high) or should I buy a complete CSL MH/PC hood complete with fan and have it sitting on top of the canopy? OR should I forget about the Modern Canopy and DIY to match the stand? 2. How does the lighting setup I have selected sound for SPS and clams? Any changes I should make? <This is one of those instances where you maybe better off with 2 250 watt MH's. I would opt for the 6,500 K Iwasaki's with supplemental actinics in PC or VHO.> 3. I am torn between the Berlin Turbo (LFS buy) and the Aqua-C EV-120 (FFE order) as my skimmer to sit in my 20 gallon high sump? <You are?> Which would you recommend considering I can buy the Berlin Turbo at my LFS and have to mail order for the Aqua-C or any other skimmer? <This is like asking me if I would rather go to Ponderosa or Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. There is no comparison here, buy the Aqua-C.> 4. I am planning on starting with 1 box of Fiji LR and a 4" DSB. What substrate would you recommend that will be 'seeded' by the LR? Home Depot Southdown? LFS Aragonite? etc.? Does 120 lbs. (3 x 40 lbs. bags) of substrate sound alright for this depth? <It may not be enough. Start with that and add some more if need be. If you get the Southdown, you are going to have 150 pounds of it (it only comes in 50 pound bags).> Is it necessary to build a 'plenum' for a 4" DSB? <No> Other tank specs: 4 x Maxi-jet 900 powerheads (2 per side)? A Rainbow Quiet One return pump. <These have been hit or miss with me. A few too many defective ones for my liking.> Down the road when I hit the $$$ tree I plan on adding a CO2 reactor. Anyway, I appreciate all of the info that you guys have posted on the web for us newbies and helping get us on the right track. Thanks, Andrew. <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Saltwater Aquarium Video Mr. Bob Fenner, <Hello Klaus> Let me introduce myself. My name is Klaus Henke and I'm a corporate video producer in the Chicago, Illinois area. I've been producing various types of videos for large and small corporations for 15 years. Recently, one of my cameramen and I were talking about doing a "Special Interest Video" (retail niche videos, How-to-videos) As of now, we are researching several topics and one of our ideas is a video on how to establish and maintain a healthy saltwater aquarium. Could be a good idea, but my partner and I know nothing about the subject. <Help is available> I've been corresponding with Greg Morgan at ReefGeek.com and he suggested that I contact you. He says that you are one of the foremost experts in the field and might be able to answer some of our questions. I sincerely hope that you don't mind me e-mailing you, and asking you some questions. <Okay> We're in the initial stages of this endeavor. We're still trying to identify our subject, at the same time discovering various avenues for distribution and marketing. My partner and I have no problem producing a comprehensive and professional video - the other stuff is a whole new ballgame. The good thing is that we're learning and we recognize our shortcomings. It is not uncommon for the producers of a video to have limited knowledge of the subject matter, at least in the beginning. The first questions I have are; Does this video exist? If so, is it current and any good? If not, is there a reasonable market for such a tape/DVD? <There have been a few attempts, some on personal initiative, others more "corporate" on general topics... like "set-up", identification... and a few of these are still available... Some series (the best, Paul Speice in WGBH's Guppies to Groupers) done on a grand scale...> Based on our limited research on saltwater aquariums, we need to keep the video basic. I understand there are various paths one could take in assembling a saltwater aquarium. My partner and I have viewed a video on how to setup a freshwater tank. The production value was very low, the pace was slow, the format was amateurish and it was done in the 80's. <The ones I have seen are all about the same in these ways> The one thing it had going for it was that it had a credible host. He was a Doctor from some New York aquarium. Unfortunately, he wasn't very compelling on camera. <Likely Paul Loiselle... and Tetra's (now part of Pfizer, formerly WLA) series... and they even over-dubbed someone else's voice...> In the perfect world, you would have an expert on the subject at hand that knows how to talk on camera. Our thought is to have an expert accompanied by a host who drives the piece and asks the pertinent questions. Much like that old home building show starring Norm and Bob. <A winner> I'll have no problem finding our "Bob Villa" (the host), but the challenge will be finding the expert in the Chicago area. Do you know of anyone in the Chicago area that might be interested? <Mmm, maybe close enough... I am going to cc, refer you to John Dawe of the resident marine club (hobbyist... he's good and also a pharamcist) and three of my cohorts here (WetWebMedia), Steve Pro and Anthony Calfo (in Pittsburgh, hope it's not so far), and Lorenzo Gonzalez (right in your town)... and hope they will cooperate with your project> If you have the time, I would highly appreciate some suggestions on content. What would you like to see in the video? What should be covered? (i.e.; fish compatibility, filter systems, etc.) <... this will/would take a few tens of hours... am too busy to take on such an endeavor> I think the structure should follow a set-by-set process of a potential buyer and their subsequent setup of the tank.. What are their first questions? What do they need to decide before dropping a single dime? Then get into assembling a healthy tank. What are the pitfalls? Please keep your suggestions at a laymen's level, for I'm not an expert on saltwater aquariums. <I have a popular book in print, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", that addresses these issues... in order... for a wide interest and ability level audience... This work parallels classes, pitches I have given for many years on set-up... I strongly encourage your perusing it as an outline> I would like this video geared toward someone who has a limited knowledge of how to establish and maintain a saltwater aquarium. It might even be somebody who is contemplating the notion of a purchase. <Good idea... the broadest market... though I would ask Anthony re a Coral Propagation, other more special interest titles as well> Be aware, we plan to put this on DVD, as well as VHS. We would like to utilize the chapter aspect of DVD. If this is successful, we might produce additional videos covering other aspects of saltwater aquariums and/or more detailed information. (A series) <There is room for this media in the West> Since my partner and I will be investing substantial amount of capital into the production and marketing of the video, and there is no guarantee we will make our money back, we will not be in the position to pay our on-camera expert or advisors, but we plan to compensate participants with product placement and/or credit (free advertising). Appearing or being mentioned in a commercially available video can prove to be quite beneficial. <Yes> Again, we are in the infancy of this, but if the planets align and we discover that there is a reasonable market for this product, I would like to move forward. I look forward to hearing from you and hope you can answer some of our questions. Your input will be extremely appreciated. <If it doesn't take much time, ask away> Feel free to visit my website. If you go to demos, you can view some of my work. Look forward to your response. Klaus Henke Elatica Productions, Inc. 847-707-2827 klaus@elatica.com www.elatica.com and .net <Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

New Tank I am setting up my second tank. It is a 125 gallon tank, six foot long. I have 4.5 to 5 inches of oolitic sand and built a hang hood with three 175 halides and four 110 watt fluorescents run off an IceCap 660. My question is regarding water flow. I have a 600 gallon overflow plumbed into a 20 gallon tank with a Turboflotor 1000 and a Rio 3100 return pump. <Two problems as of right now, the siphon overflow and too small of a sump. This 20 gallon tank is going to give you problems trying to balance between top off and overflowing.> Right now the return pump is chocked down as to not overflow my tank. <Well, the Rio 3100 is rated for 900 gph at 0 feet, so this is probably doing no more than 500 gph is your tank at full throttle. You have it slowed down, so you are way under the recommended 1250 gph total circulation.> It feeds a four foot spray bar that is just under the surface of the water. I can't really see the effects of the flow because all there is is sand in the tank. <If this is not fully set up yet, please stop and correct. You will have a good bit of work right now (shoveling out sand), but it will save you countless hours of work and aggravation later.> My rock will arrive Wednesday the 30th. <It sounds like you have a busy weekend cut out for you.> I want to make this a SPS tank. <Definitely correct your basic problems. See if you cannot jam something closer to 40-50 gallons as a sump under your tank. Also, I would look for two external pumps able to handle 1200 gph at zero head each. Lastly, get rid of the siphon overflows and get your tank drilled to handle 2000 gph as a minimum. Look at the multitude of plumbing and circulation articles and FAQ's on www.WetWebMedia.com for more information.> What can I do to increase water flow to recommended ten times the tank capacity? <The ten times turnovers recommendations are for fish tanks or reef tanks with LPS and soft corals. If you are going hardcore SPS you should try to attain 20 times the volume turnover/circulation.> Should I add a 800 gallon overflow and put my 3100 returning this water through another spray bar and add a 2500 for the other overflow. <See above> I don't mind the look of the bars. In time they should just blend in. <Agreed> I am not wanting to use powerheads as they are a lot of work. <Agreed again> Also is 150 pounds of live rock enough. <Should be fine.> And any ideas about aquascape. I was thinking of three little islands so I could see more sand. <That sounds fine, too.> My other tank is rock across the back and I don't want them to look alike. Thank you for your time and help. <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Stocking List First I would like to thank you guys for your rapid response and the great job you do there. My 55 gallon tank has cycled finally would just like to run by my stocking list, 2 damsels which cycled the tank the rest will be added a month apart. <Return the Damsels. They won't get along with anything else.> 2 percula clowns 1 yellow tang 1 porcupine puffer and a couple of hermit crabs as a clean up crew until Mr. Puffer gets them. Hopefully he won't but I know he will but they should aid in keeping his teeth worn and they're cheap. Is there a possibility of getting anemone in there? Instead of the hermit crabs is there anything else I could use as a clean up crew that would be safe? <Snails> I have a wet dry filter I'm using. Would that be sufficient instead of sacrificing the hermits? <The filter filters stuff out of the water, the clean-up crew cleans up the substrate. Your answer depends on your substrate and it's capacities or lack thereof. See WetWebMedia for the benefits of deep sand beds.> One more question if I could please, I just purchased a 150 gallon tank that will be up and running in 4 months. Just want to see what you think of my setup: fish only, wet/dry filter, 30 gallon sump, the nautilus protein skimmer up to 300 gallons, uv sterilizer and a 900 gallon gph pump, 350 watt heater. Does this look to you to be sufficient set up? If not any recommendations? <Depends on the fish you want to keep and their waste production, need for current, etc. You need to design the system to the stock to be kept. There is no one ideal. One thing, you will need about 250-350 watts of heater per 55-60 gallons. Craig>

Starting Over Hi <Hi there! Scott F. with you> I absolutely love your site and visit it at least a few times a week. I recently had an ich outbreak in my tank that killed my hippo tang :( The ich has been gone now for about 3 weeks. I'm going to wait another 2 before I add anything else. <Sorry to hear about the tang. You may not like my recommendation, but here goes...I think that you should remove the rest of the fish (sick or not) and put them in your quarantine tank (you do have one, right?) for about 3-4 weeks. Even though these fish show no signs of the disease, it is in your tank. Ich parasites need a host. If there are no hosts in the tank, most ich parasites will die. Also, by removing your remaining fish (which may very well be "carriers" of the disease), you have chance to observe them and treat hem without damaging the invert life in your main tank> I have a 90 gallon tank with 90 lbs of live rock. I use a wet-dry and a SeaClone 150 ( I need to upgrade this I know). <Hey, if it's pulling out dark yucky stuff twice a week or more, it will do for now> In light of my tang dying, I was thinking about changing the live stock in my tank. Right now all that's in there is a few damsels, a tank raised clown, and a yellow tang. I was wandering if I removed them all except the yellow tang could I add a Volitans lionfish, a Huma trigger, and a striped burr fish??? Would this be too much for my system?? I know they are all messy eaters except the tang. <Yep- they are...And potentially very large. I'd probably choose between the trigger or the lion, and work your population around that fish. As far as the Burrfish- they're very cute, but once again, they get huge, and can really tax your filter system. Please reconsider your stocking list for this tank. To accommodate all of these guys (they all make great pets) for anything approaching a normal life span, you really need a much larger tank!> if they can all be added is there a certain order I should add them?? I do already have the yellow tang in the tank though......... If one does need to be excluded which would be best??? <I'm partial to the trigger, but they can get aggressive as they mature-tough call here. The lion is big- and eats slowly- the tang may be a source of annoyance...> I really love all 4 of these fish they seem to all be so different from one another and have personality which is exactly what I want to go for in my tank. <Yep, a classic dilemma. But you really have to consider the maximum size that these fishes attain, when considering them. You may want to try other, similar species that don't get quite as large. Check the wetwebmedia.com site for lots of descriptions of fishes that would fit the bill. Have fun, and good luck!>

Large Tank with Center Divider Guys, I'm installing a 10 foot long tank in my restaurant. My idea is to have a Plexiglas divider with a multitude of small holes or slots in it to provide water flow. One 5 foot section would house a live rock predator type ecosystem, with morays, triggers etc, the other half a reef community tank. <If you have not done so already, I would rethink this, if you want to have a reef (corals and the like).> There will be inflows and outflows on both sides, plus a closed circuit line, pulling from one side, exiting in the other side with an in line canister filter. One large sump will be used with system with top line skimming, ozone, pumps etc. Any obvious problems I may encounter? <Tremendous nutrient problems and nuisance algae on the reef side.> Any other suggestions? <Simply keep the two systems separate.> Also, I've installed a 200 mg ozonizer on my home tank, total water volume 500-550 gallons. After a week my ORP has stabilized at 310 even though I have the unit set for 350. Is my unit too small for this size system? <Perhaps, but if holding steady, I would be happy with it. Versus trying to attain some particular number, I would strive to maintain stability and watch the trends of ORP.> The unit is on maximum output. I have not noticed a big difference in water clarity. <Perhaps there is some other aspect of your husbandry that is amiss. Ozone is a useful tool, but is not a remedy for any and all problems.> Thank you as always for your timely answers. Paul <Have a nice day! -Steven Pro>

query (Putting together a store one question at... a... time...) Respected sir <Hello Monty,> I am setting up a marine tank I am putting 2 inch layer of dolomite chips then i am putting a plastic mesh or gravel tidy then I am putting 1 inch layer of coral sand. Well sir I am not using live rock. I am setting fish tank only. I also want to know what is live sand. MONTY <Monty, before you set up any sand bed you should read about live sand, substrates and deep sand beds. Go to this web page, read it and all of the linked pages, they will help you. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm Craig>

Re: Re: query (Putting together a store one question at... a... time...) Respected sir My tank size is 36inc in length 12inc in breadth and 18inc in height. I got tetra nitrate kit and Hagen ph kit. Can I use dolomite chips? <Hello Monty, I would not recommend your set-up. The coarse media will trap debris and waste where you will not be able to remove it because of the net and cause you nitrate troubles in the future. Please follow the advice in the links I provided. For best results an aragonite sand bed of grain sizes ranging from 0.18 to 1.2mm is the ideal. Crushed coral can be used but it's coarse texture will trap more detritus and debris and thus pollution issues. Please read the substrate links at the top of this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm Craig>

Hi Bob! (another old Nature Etc., Inc. cohort chimes in) Hey Bob, Just came across your web site by accident, I'm setting up a saltwater aquarium here in Indiana, and was looking up the latest information since I've been out of the loop for many years. <Ahh, welcome back> Before I even read any of it, I knew it would be highly informative and accurate..... because I know you. I used to work for you back in the 80's, Aquatic Life Services, you and Rick. Boy, things have come a long way since then. And I have tell you, back here this area they are still kinda in the stone age. <Well, they have you to help bring them up to speed!> Anyway, I still remember some of those ugly pond cleanouts in the rain, and the snowflake moray that used to try to bite me in the doctor's office, plus getting stung by the lionfish at the Fish Merchant. <Yikes... I still remember all this as well!> Take Care Man, Randy Rueckert (in case you don't remember Big Ford F250, Lived in Clairemont, does Rob still work for you?) <Ahh... I wish Rob was still about (his mom still lives out in Santee)... he and John got the "dive bug" (from some nefarious influence... yikes two!) and were teaching diving at one of those cruise ship islands the last several years I heard from them. Bob Fenner> I've gotta go now, I'm to cruise through the website..oh, I see you have some books! cool.

Hi Guys, Here is one of those new tank questions with a twist <Hi Tim> My tank is a standard 29 gallon. I put 40# of Arag-alive sand from Carib-sea on the bottom. On the third day I placed four good sized dead shrimp in the tank. They started getting a very large jelly like clear-opaque substance on them. About four days after that I placed 36# of Lalo Live Rock from LiveAquaria.com and removed the shrimp. It has now been four more days and the rock is now covered with this same jelly substance. It smells horrible also. I do not have a skimmer on the tank but do have "floss" running in the filter area and a bio-wheel. There are sign that algae (maybe) is starting to grow on the glass as I can see some little teeny tiny strings maybe 1/32 of an inch. I really want to get into this hobby, in fact, I already have a 200 in the planning stages. I just did not think that it would this disgusting. It's kinda funny in a sick way because the tank is in our bedroom. My wife went to see one of her friends this weekend and it has really started to stink. When she gets home she will probably have a cow. Your input would be appreciated beyond belief. I need as much help as I can get. PS. The water parameters are Ph 8.0, Nitrite none, Nitrate none, Ammonia off the scale. The ammonia test kit shows a green color chip but after about three minutes the test turns dark blue. Way high Ammonia. I have already done two 50% water changes. I need a lot of help. or at least a loaf of bread for this jelly. : ) Thanks, Tim <Alrighty, you probably didn't need the shrimp! The rock is not "cured" so it is driving your ammonia beyond the shrimp.... Best to do large water changes, run a skimmer 24/7, plenty of circulation and powerheads, carbon in a cartridge filter, etc. The life on the rock is decomposing which contributes to the ammonia. This will then be processed into nitrite, which will start to go off the scale here shortly, you will see it on your tests. When this and ammonia test zero and nitrates are up, your nitrogen cycle will be complete. Do several 25% water changes to lower nitrates and think about a cleaner crew. Don't worry! Export the nutrient you have now with big water changes, you will still have ammonia, but get it on the scale. I do wish you the best with your wife....change plenty of water....and get it skimmed and moving. Next time just use the rock, you don't shrimp with uncured new rock! It stinks all on it's own! Craig.>

wanting to start a saltwater tank I'm wanting to start a saltwater tank in the near future and just need some info. <Welcome Aaron, are they making any more like you? If we could get everyone to do what you are doing right now, I think it would be Nirvana!> I'm either going to be running a 75 or 125 gallon tank with live rock and live sand. I'm not planning on having reef right away, maybe sometime down the road as I get more experienced. <So this will be live rock and sand with fish only at first?> I would like to have as much if not all of my equipment concealed under the tank in the stand. I've heard that wet/dry filters are the better filters to go with, but then I read some articles on here that say the live rock and live sand will filter the tank..... could you please give me your opinion on the subject. <This depends on what you are planning to keep. If you are planning to have a reef tank in the future and to have all of your equipment under the stand, then perhaps you should research sumps and refugiums and see if this isn't the way you want to filter your water. Live rock and Deep sand beds work wonderfully to reduce ammonia/nitrite and maintain nitrate levels lower than wet/dry filters. There is much more on this subject at WWM. Search on live rock, much excellent info!> And just out of curiosity what is a good wet/dry filter? I would much rather get more expensive/efficient equipment so then I don't end up buying it later down the road. <<If going for a reef down the road would go for LR and Sand. Wet/drys will produce nitrates and can cause water quality problems for reef tanks, especially if not maintained regularly.> Then the next thing is protein skimmers, which brands/models should I consider? Again, I would much rather spend a little more to get better quality equipment. <Do size a little larger than you think. Aqua-C and Euro Reef seem to be favorites. An Aqua-C Urchin Pro would work for a 75 and the larger in-sump Aqua-C's and Euro Reefs for 125's.> Lighting is next, I know that metal halide lighting is the best, what would you suggest for either a 75 or 125 gallon tank? <It depends on what you want to keep. MH if you want light demanding corals in a 75. Depending on tank depth 2 - 175 or 250 watt lamps. Of course more for a 125. Depends on the dimensions of the tank. MH lamps will cover about 2'X 2' The deeper the tank, the higher the wattage required to penetrate the water. For tanks up to 20-22" deep 175's and perhaps 250 watts work well. Over 24" tends to push you into 400 watt range. Factor in your Deep Sand Bed of course! Last but not least I've heard about wavemakers, what is the advantage of using a wavemaker over just straight powerheads? <Wavemakers provide varying currents and are located out of sight compared to powerheads. A cleaner appearance and usually better water movement. Also better for any soft-bodied animals that can get caught/sucked into powerheads like anemones. Please go to WWM and read the links on filters, skimmers and lighting to find all you need to know about these subjects....before you buy! Thank you so much for asking the right questions my friend! Best of luck with your tank, Craig>

Adding clean-up critters and LR When should I add clean-up snails and crabs to LS and tank? Then, when do I add LR? <<Add LR first, let tank stabilize, test for zero ammonia/nitrite, presence of low nitrate, do water change and add clean-up as there is food available (algae, detritus, etc.) Low fish load at this time after quarantine. Do a search on stocking and clean-up crews at WWM, much more information there. Have fun, Craig>>

Re: new setup WOOHOOO my tank just cycled. Within 48 hours my ammonia and nitrite levels have dropped to nothing from a VERY high level. Thanks for all your help with getting me setup. now I'm going to slowly stock my tank per your directions. <Ah, the adventure continues> I had to test my water 3 times because I couldn't believe it actually worked. I was sure my results were wrong. <Patience my friend. Allow a few more days to pass before adding more life. Bob Fenner>


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner