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FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 25
Related FAQs: Best Marine Set-Up FAQs 1,
Best FAQs 2, Marine
Set-Up 1, FAQs 2, FAQs
3, FAQs 4, FAQs
5, FAQs 6, FAQs
7, FAQs 8, FAQs
9, FAQs 10, FAQs
11, FAQs 12, FAQs
13, FAQs 14, FAQs
15, FAQs 16, FAQs
17, FAQs 18, FAQs
19, FAQs 20, FAQs
21, FAQs 22,
FAQs 23,
FAQs 24,
FAQs 26, FOWLR
Set-Ups,
Reef Tank Setups,
Small Tank Setups,
Moving Aquarium Systems,
Related Articles: Marine Set-Up,
Marine Planning,
Getting Started with a
Marine Tank By
Adam Blundell, MS, Technology:
Putting on the Brakes: How much is too much? By
Tommy Dornhoffer
Reef
Set-Up, Fish
Only Systems, Fish
and Invertebrate Systems, Small Marine
Set-Ups, Large
Marine Systems, Cold/Cool
Water Marine Systems, Moving Aquariums,
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Chaetodon meyeri Bloch &
Schneider 1801, Meyer's Butterflyfish. Widespread in the Indian Ocean to
western Pacific Oceans, this species is another loser that is too-frequently
sold as a "miscellaneous" butterfly. Only eats coral polyps... Wakatobi pix. |
hW Marine Products 11/7/06
Hi Crew,
<Hello Andrew>
I cannot seem to locate a retailer for hW marine products. Foster/Smith carries
their salt but that is all. Can you help me out here?
<Sure can. Here is a link for their authorized dealers. http://www.hawaiianmarine.com/dealers.htm>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andrew.
Re: Custom marine system in India - 11/02/06
Dear Bob:
<Sankara>
I had asked the following question and it was replied to as follows. Thank
you for your answers.
<Welcome>
After that, the idea is slowly simmering and progressing. I have made contact
with people in India and what I understood is that the hobby is
very nascent in India so that we have to get many equipment by import.
<This will change... and soon>
That's OK. But we have to know what are the sizes of equipment needed and what
can be fabricated in India (we have the expertise for that) My
"illiterate" helper made an excellent protein skimmer for my 200 Gallon tank for
less than $20. Its working wonderfully. All he did was to see a
similar equipment in action. So once I know what are needed the slow process of
acquiring material can start.
Regarding the site, it will be in the new house I am planning to build so that
everything is factored in properly and will not be an "extension"
ad-hoc job. The land is being identified. People are at work on that.
<Good>
I mainly need the answer to the question what is best, glass or acrylic?
<Mmm... of the two for commercial application, almost always acrylic... it does
scratch more easily, but is much tougher, resistant to breaking...>
then what thickness. Considering the size I think acrylic will be safer than
glass so that there is no danger. What is your take please?
<Quarter inch material is useful for up to 18 inches in water height... still a
good choice for much shallower>
This will be a three year project where the tank will be put in along with the
house and then slowly the equipment will be added so that in 3 years
when I am ready to go back there will be a running system in place.
Regarding opening to Sun, I have experimented and I have found that the Suncool
film for cars really keep out heat without unduly affecting the spectrum.
Still a bit of cooling will be needed as we are right in the tropics.
(Cochin - Kerala - 9 degrees North.)
<I understand>
There are no consultancies available in India in designing.
The tank will be on the ground floor so there are no foundation problems.
The concrete sides will be epoxy coated so that cement will not interact with
the salt water.
Can we continue the discussion please?
<Certainly. Bob Fenner in Siem Reap, Cambodia, but out to the States on the
morrow>
Just a few questions I seem to be getting the most conflicted advice on.
New Setup Checkup 10/2/06
Hi. Your site is great, I've learned a lot already from it and hope to keep
learning from you. <Good to hear.> I am saving money up to start a saltwater
tank, and am definitely interested in doing things correctly the first time.
<Good> When I started keeping freshwater tanks a few years ago I was steered in
every wrong direction possible, a mistake I don't want to make this time,
especially since most of the stores here seem to be in the same "money over
customer" base one store even told me I could keep 2 Oscars in a 10 gallon tank
forever!)
<Well, I wouldn't go there for advice ;)>
I guess I should start with my plans. I only have the space for a small tank, a
29 gallon. I am going to use aragonite sand and have a bed of about 2". <Less
than 1 or more than 3 is best.> I am unsure about how much rock I am going to
use, I am going to get a lot of porous 'dead' rock from my LFS and seed it with
some beautiful aquacultured live rock that I have found. Probably about 5 lbs
of the LR. For my equipment, I know I will use pc lighting, have a skimmer and
have a fuge. Plus the obvious things like heaters. I plan on getting all of
the non-living things first, setting up the tank then adding the liverock to
cycle it. I figure the rock can cycle it and while that is happening I can
watch to make sure I don't have any bad hitchhikers in the tank. After it has
been set up for a couple of months (after cycle basically) then I will add the
livestock to it.
<I would probably let it run a little longer to let the LR really establish
itself and seed the base rock.>
I don't want a lot of fish, just a few. I know I will have an ocellaris clown,
and a clown goby still haven’t' decided on a colour yet, most likely a citrinus
though) I was planning on a rainfordi goby, but have read at your site that
they need a more established tank. <Yep> Though would a 29 gallon tank be enough
for one after it has been set up for a while? <Probably not.> Or should I
forget about that plan? <I would> I want about 10 snails, an even mix of astrea,
cerith and Nassarius. <Good> I am also planning on getting a scarlet hermit
crab or two, I love to watch hermits and have been told that those are the most
reef safe, as far as crabs go. <Yep> I don't have any plans to keep shrimp, but
if I did decide to I would get peppermint cleaners. <They are nice, enjoyed them
when I had them it the past.> For the corals, I will have a random assortment
of zoanthid and palythoas. A Ricordea and some xenia. Perhaps someday a
Capnella OR devil's hand for some variety. Does this sound like too much
livestock, or can you find any big incompatibility problems with my list?
<Not really, just don't overload it with corals, just a few and leave them room
to grow.>
For my filtration, I know the skimmer and rock are the bulk of it, but what
skimmer should I get? I was going to get a remora, but the LFS I am going
through is hesitant to get any in because he has never used them himself. <I
absolutely love mine.> He stocks the CoraLife super skimmers. <Check some of
the message boards for opinions on this model.> I have heard that either works
"better" than the other. Also I have heard, dumb question here, that xenias
like their water a bit Underskimmed. <High water quality is important for these
like all other corals.> Would I be overskimming for them with either skimmer,
or would I be just fine?
<Will be fine.>
The fuge I am going to use will be an AquaClear filter made into one. It'll
have some sand, perhaps a bit of rock, and some macro. Probably either sea
lettuce or turtle grass. Is either one better than the other? <Should be fine,
although not as fast growing as some other macroalgae.> It'll be lit by a small
pc light. I'm hoping to grow out pods in it. <Will> The model of filter I was
looking at has 500 gph flow rate. Should I go for the next size down model(300
gph), or should I keep this one in mind? <Bigger the better.> Also, with either
size would I need to have additional powerheads for more flow, or should I be
fine with that much? <Almost impossible to have too much flow, I would add a
powerhead or two.> My LFS has said to add another one or two powerheads to that
mix, yet that seems like the flow would be nonstop everywhere in the tank.
<Looking for 10X tank volume turnover.>
Also, how much light should I get? <Depends.> The LFS has said that the single
light pc strip(65 watts) should be more than enough for the tank. <Maybe> Should
I stick with that plan or should I get the double strip light? I am never going
to have any form of anemone, clam or SPS in the tank. And really most LPSs
don't interest me. Huge IF I ever tried one in that tank it would be a candy
cane. I've read that they don't need massive amounts of lighting, and I could
keep it near the top of the tank for more than it would be getting
otherwise. So yeah, 65, or 130 watts?
<Really depends on what specific corals you get.>
What salt should I use? Hm, don't really know how to elaborate more on that
one, just which brands seem to be better, in your experience? Or is there even
a really big difference?
<Most are pretty comparable. Most popular is Instant Ocean, most commonly
available, reasonably priced. Shedd Aquariums brand of choice if that helps.>
I think that is about all my head has rattling around in it at the moment, so
thank you in advance for your time.
<Sure>
Dana
<Chris>
New Marine Setup...Confirmation of Parameters, gear check
10/2/06
I have been reading you web site for months. It's been a great resource.
So, I would like to run my new setup by you guys (or gals as the case may be)
and just make sure that I seem alright before I transfer my fish from my old 55
gallon. The new tank will be a FOWLR set up and I doubt that corals will ever
be placed in the system (we will see). So here it goes.
First, the tank is a 125 gallon glass tank (purchased second hand). We started
the cycling about 5 weeks ago. It has about 1-1.25 of mixed 50/50 Gray Coast
(new) and aragonite (from current 55 gallon). Then there is ~60 lbs.
of dead live rock with ~30 lbs. of live rock on top of that. There will also
be about 15 lbs. of live rock placed in the tank coming from the old 55
gallon.
As for equipment I have two ~275 GPM power heads now and a third one to go in
when I break down the old tank. There is a Magnum 350 (for water polishing
purposes), a twin panel back-filter (from Wal-Mart) and a Fluval 204 (for
carbon and polishing purposes) that will come from the old tank. I have been
juggling my Remora Pro w/ pre-filter between the two tanks during the cycling
process and of course it will be placed in the new tank. The heaters are a new
Jager 250 watt unit and a 200 watt unit from the old tank.
The lighting is still a bit up in the air. At this time our budget is a bit
limited. I have a line on a used 72 power compact fixture with four 96watt
bulbs and moon lights for under $200. Supposedly it is less than a year
old. It sounds a little too good to be true but we will see. If this one
does work out then we will be set as far as I can see (understanding that the
bulbs will need to be replaced soon of course). If this does not work then I
will go one of two routes.
The first system I was contemplating was two 36 standard fluorescent
dual fixtures (for a total of four Aqua-Ray 9350K bulbs). The other option
is two single 96watt bulb 36 power compact fixtures. I also have the original
72 standard light fixture with two new 24 standard florescent bulbs that I was
going to use with either setup for a bit of the deep sea look. Any
thoughts? My initial budget for lighting is the $200 range.
As of today my water tests with the following: Ph-8.1; Ammonia-0;
Nitrite-0; Nitrate-trace, but less than 10ppm; SG~1.022; Temp~78deg F. It has
held steady at this for about a week now. My LFS seems to think all is good to
go water wise.
Our current 55 gallon tank has 7 Monos (3-Sebae; 4-Argentus). These guys will
be added last, if possible. Our current wish list for the new tank is as
follows: 1- Lawnmower Blenny; 1-Coral Beauty; 1-Koran Angel; 1-Naso (Lipstick)
Tang,
<Will need more room>
and maybe 2-3 Mexican Rainbow Wrasse. Any huge issues with this mix?
<The Koran will get too large for here as well>
Also, the more I read the more I think that I should be removing the
bio-rings from the Fluval. Yes...no... maybe?
<I'd leave them>
How about eliminating the back-filter. Again, yes...no.. maybe? Any other
equipment issues that you can see?
<There are better modes of filtration, but these will/can work>
So there it is. Any general recommendations would be great. My wife is very
eager to get this tank stocked. As I see it, we have plenty of time. I
certainly do not want to rush things. I did that on my first tank and do not
want to repeat that situation again. Thank you in advance for you information.
Eric
<Mmm... I'd keep reading re your possibilities:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
as you seem not totally sure... though, as stated, what you currently have can
work. Bob Fenner>
S.O.S.! Mmm, nope... just need to read
9/21/06
Hi guys (and gals). I have a serious problem. First off I want to
give you major props on your site and say thank you to MacL for trying
to identify my worms! I have another picture of a worm, it may be
clearer. OK, here's my story. I'm a newbie to the marine world.
<And to here... your images are orders of magnitude too large...>
I have a 30 gal tank (small I know but it was a b-day gift! was planning
on eventually upgrading), a bio wheel filter, about 30 pounds of live
rock, live sand, and a CoraLife (grr) protein skimmer. I started off
putting the sand in and then making up the saltwater. I added the cured
rocks in piece by piece. Everything seemed to be going well until I
added the last and largest chunk of rock--the one that also contained
the worms. After I added this rock, I had an outrageous outbreak of
brown algae
<Just coincidental... Diatom proliferation is a very regular part of
such small system run-ins during cycling>
that covered my sand, it would return within days of siphoning. I was
told that this was pretty normal,
<Ah, yes>
especially with new tanks and that it should subside...that or it was an
indication of something else being wrong with the tank. I bought my
skimmer but I could never get the dang thing to foam. The guy at my
local fish store (LFS?) said that it would produce foam after i had fish
in there that created waste for it to "foam out." Made sense to me at
the time. My parameters before I added my fish were ammonia 0, nitrite
0, pH 8.2, nitrates ~20 (yes high but I was hoping a functioning skimmer
and a good water change would bring them down), salinity at about 1.022
and temp around 76F. I decided to try to add fish, so the LFS sold me 3
damsels ( I thought this was a war waiting to happen but he encouraged
it)- a 1" Dascyllus aruanus, a 1" Chrysiptera cyanea, and a 1.5"
Chrysiptera parasema...
<Impressive!>
He did not mention dipping or quarantining, he said a standard 20 minute
acclimation would do. I added the fish on Sunday, the cyanea hid
immediately and only came out to snip at the parasema. The 3 striped
one seemed fine, marched around the tank like he owned it,
<Does>
attacked the omega zone flakes I dropped in. I was planning on
returning "big blue" to prevent further stresses and territorial
disputes. However, Monday things got really bad. The Chrysiptera
parasema had died. I examined it and it displayed some white spots on
its scales, they honestly looked like fighting/stress wounds so I didn't
worry about it. But, I found the Chrysiptera cyanea half way dead. It
too had white spots on it, but it also had what looked like a blister on
his underside near the anus (infection or fungus?).
<Mostly environmental>
It also had a solid string of white poop attached to it.
<Oops>
I did not have time to take a picture, I was late for work and wanted
to get the fish out of the tank right away. The other damsel is MIA, my
guess is that it crawled into a rock and died or something :( I am
trying to find the root of my problem and I have a suspicion of a bad
bacteria or fungus in the tank because the fish appeared to be healthy
before I added them,
<Seemed...>
my nitrates were high ( never lowered despite water changes), and my
algae was out of control. I examined my suspect rock(s) and found what
looked like white cob web spots--small ones on the one that contains the
worms and a larger piece (pictured) on another. I still have live
worms, about 10 that I can count--
<Good>
small and large a few small feather dusters and some other plant-like
critter. My sand has also began to clump and look "rocky" (also
pictured). There are also white specks, looks like sand grains, being
tossed around by the filter--could this be a long-term problem?
<Not likely>
Could the skimmer have caused anything?
<Nah>
I apologize for the lengthy letter but I am very sad and concerned and
I could not really find a definite answer on the WWM site, I could only
make projections. You guys are the experts so please tell me what you
think and where I should go from here--a 100% water change is probably
an order. Do I need to remove the rocks or is there a way to treat them
if they are the problem?
<Nope>
Do I need to replace my sand?
<Negative>
etc...--
Thank you so much for all of your time, care, and hard work.
--Appreciative, but saddened and slightly discouraged, novice--
<Mmm, well... I/we would not have cycled the system with Damsels... and
yes, your system is likely Crypt-infested at this point... You need to
"just wait", be patient at this time. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasittksfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... And remember... tens of Kbytes... for
graphics attachment... We only have ten megs total... BobF> |
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Marine Set-Up... Shift Key Not Working - 07/30/06
I have a 90 gal 48x18x24, crushed coral ,Emperor 400, Magnum 350, the
regular 40 watt lights that came with the tank and 15lbs of live rock, 1 damsel
and 4 other starting fish.
I started my tank 1 week ago using filter media and some substrate from a
currently running f/o tank I was thinking of a Remora skimmer.
<A good choice.>
What else do I need for a successful setup, your answers appreciated.
<With the Remora, sounds OK, but do read here, and related links on the subject
for additional info.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm. Do use capitalization where
necessary in future queries.
James (Salty Dog)>
Vince
First Marine Tank, 36G 7/24/06
I am just starting a saltwater tank that is a 36 gallon used bowfront tank
with a stand. <Good luck and welcome to the salty side of the hobby.> This will
be my first saltwater so I really want this to work.
Here is what I have so far and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Coralife light: 2 bulbs, both 65 watts, one blue one white, also attached are
night lights to simulate moon light.
Some model of an emperor filter - it came with the tank so I don't know the
model: it has one bio wheel and holds Rite Size Cartridge E if that helps with
identifying it.
<Needs to be cleaned often, probably weekly.>
Hot Magnum 250 (I think) - also came with the tank: the man at the shop
suggested to use the micron cartridge first and switch to the main filter type
that can hold carbon and such later on, I don't know when he will tell me to
switch and why I should use this one first but that's just what he told me to
do. <I would run the carbon, can be quite helpful. Also this filter needs to
be cleaned weekly as well.>
2 Maxi Jet 900 powerheads: one facing the front of the tank in the top left hand
corner, one forcing water and debris along the back, bottom of the tank pushing
it to the front of the tank, (located in the back, bottom, left hand corner of
the tank).
<A couple more would probably be helpful, the more flow the better. Looking for
at least 10X tank volume turn over.>
I do not have a heater yet, there is nothing in the tank yet, soon to be live
rock though!! <Get one before adding the live rock, stability is key.> I am so
excited! <Tis quite the adventure.> The water stays at a constant 80 degrees F
no matter where I put the light, put the legs on the light, leave the top closed
or open. I cannot get it to go down unless I have no light, keep the cover off,
and leave it alone for about 5 hours! Is 80 degrees OK for fish, live rock, and
some hardy corals/invertebrates like
zoanthids? <Quite acceptable.> Only 2 of the cooling fans in the hood work right
now. (I am going to wait a while to add in the invertebrates/corals because
I want the tank to work with just fish first). <Would run them all from the get
go, easier on the equipment and can find problems before the sensitive livestock
is added.>
I am going to have the blue light turn on 30 minutes before the white ones turn
on in the morning, and shut off 30 minutes after the white ones turn off at
night. Does that seem alright? <Sure> Both lights will be on for 13 hours of the
day. <A little long but ok.> The night lights will be on after the blue ones
turn off at night. <Ok>
My salt level will be pretty stable at 1.023
I will not include a protein skimmer yet because I will not be keeping any
invertebrates/corals right away. <Very important for the fish as well. I
consider it the most important piece of equipment for a tank and would not run a
tank without a QUALITY skimmer, regardless of what I am keeping.> All I will be
having in my tank for a while is live rock and fish. Can some species of
zoanthids survive without a protein skimmer if I do 5 or 10 gallon water changes
every month later on, and can the survive with the lighting that I have?
,Lighting yes, but weekly or bi-weekly water changes are best, 10-15% each
time.> If so, what species of zoanthids would be a good choice? <Many, peruse
WetWeb for specifics.> If not, what is a good hang on back protein skimmer that
is not too expensive that I can purchase when I am ready to add a few hardy
invertebrates? <For skimmers quality costs. Check out the excellent article by
Steven Pro for more
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm .>
If later on I keep some invertebrates/corals, will I need to supplement calcium?
<Probably.> If so, is there a brand that sells a high quality calcium
supplement?
<Many, most name brands are fine.>
Finally, could you list a few groups of fish that I could put in this tank that
would mix well with each other, and list some invertebrates/corals that are
hardy and easier to keep than most other invertebrates/corals that the fish will
not eat or demolish?
<Too many to list, looking for 3-5 small (>4 inches) fish, and few colonies of
appropriate corals which can be found on WetWeb.>
And the ones that you suggest, do they "need" a protein skimmer if I do monthly
5 or 10 gallon water changes? <Every tank needs a skimmer in my opinion,
especially with such infrequent water changes. With no skimmer bi-weekly 5G
changes would be best.> Just so I can get a picture of and know what my options
are on what different types of community fish I can mix with each other based on
size and quantity and what hardy invertebrates/corals I can keep with them. <Too
many to list, detail on WetWeb.>
Sorry for the length of this email! <No Problem.> You guys are really helpful
for doing this!
<Chris>
Upgrading questions... too rude to follow directions 7/22/06
I, currently, have a 55 gallon "reef" tank - some corals, a few fish, live
rock, live sand, etc.
<Okay...>
I am upgrading, this weekend, to a 90 gallon "reef-ready" tank. I have a
homemade refugium, but need to upgrade it, too. I was looking at doing a CPR
Aquafuge Pro under my tank, instead of a sump. Anyone use these?
<All sorts of folks... you can find our review of such on WWM>
Any Pros/Cons on them? The tank will have to run plugged up with no sump/fuge
until I decide.
<Take a look/read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
See the third, fourth block of links down... on Refugiums?...>
Also, since I have never plumbed a drilled tank before, are there any good
books/articles to show how to do it correctly? I assume, also, there'd be
instructions with the tank (being delivered) and/or refugium (once I order it).
<Uhh... keep scrolling>
What worries should I have about power outages and flooding?
Ron Daley
<Learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM... we have a few tens of thousands
of visitors a day... If you had read through the guidelines of writing us, you
would not have. Bob Fenner>
Re: Upgrading questions... too rude to follow directions 7/24/06
Thank you for the help and directions.
<Welcome>
As far as the "too rude to follow directions" comment, that was not my intent.
<Ahh, thank you for this clarification>
The wealth of information on your site is a little overwhelming and, at times,
hard to maneuver through.
<Mmm, there is a "bunch to know"... or maybe better put, that one can know...
and knowing more increases ones chances for success, and enjoyment...>
I was looking for some quick, concise information in doing something I had never
done before and was a little nervous about doing.
<I see>
Thank you, once again, for the help you provided.
Ron Daley
<Thank you, Bob Fenner>
New Set Up/Shared Systems - 07/10/06
Hi there,
<<Hello>>
I currently have a reef aquarium but am about to venture on to bigger and
better.
<<Cool!>>
I would like to setup a 150 gal. reef aquarium plumbed to a 240 gal. which sets
10 ft. up and 20 ft. away from the 150.
<<Mmm, is a possibility if both will be the same "type" of system (e.g.- reef,
FOWLR, FO)...but be aware these systems will share more than just water. Any
problems/pests that manifest in one will surely make it to the other>>
Since there is a distinct possibility that I will sell my home in 5-7 years, I
would like to have the ability to run these independently as well, since I would
take the 240 with me.
<<I see>>
To give a better picture, the 150 is going to be flush mounted in a wall with
the back housed in my mechanics room in the basement, which has a water tank and
sump drain; and the 240 will be in a room above and over from this.
<<I trust you have done the necessary homework to ensure the upper floor will
support this large tank?>>
I know I have a lot of research and work to do to accomplish this
<<Indeed>>
but my initial question would be; if money were not an issue (not that I'm
rich), how would you quintessentially set up an individual tank, or do you have
a link which already provides this information?
<<Start reading here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm)
and among the links at the top of the page. I'm happy to help you out, but
rather than me speaking blindly here, research the linked info and work out some
details/ideas of what you want to do. Then come back to me to discuss if you
wish>>
Expounding on this, I would like to know how many and how big of drain holes to
the sump you would have?
<<A minimum of two 1.5" drains...more/bigger when possible>>
Where would you locate these overflow(s)?
<<When possible, my preference is to install bulkheads in the back or side
panels of the tank, rather than the bottom>>
Where should the return(s) be located?
<<Generally, on opposing ends>>
How can a wave maker or alternating power heads be incorporated to introduce a
pleasing current?
<<Many options...what do you "want" to do?>>
How should the sump be chambered, etc.?
<<Not always a necessity, but it is often a good idea to provide a dedicated
"chamber" for the skimmer to allow easier control of water height re>>
My other question would be what to look out for when joining two systems, having
multiple pumps and such.
<<I think your best option here, especially considering the physical separation
of the two displays, would be to plumb these systems to only "share" a large
sump/skimmer...and other wise providing dedicated pumps, et al>>
Also, do you know of any design software for plumbing and such, I would like to
make schematics.
<<Not specifically, though a CAD program would likely do what you want>>
Thank you for your time.
Regards,
Shawn
<<Do read through the set-up/plumbing material on the site and come back to me
with more specific information on what you wish to achieve and I will be happy
to assist further>>
P.S.
The above question(s) is very loaded and I do not feel right about getting so
much knowledge for free.
<<Mmm, haven't imparted much thus far <grin> >>
I am more than willing and would be very much like to pay (through Paypal or
something), some consulting fees as I go on with this project.
<<Thank you very much Shawn. Payment is not necessary, we are all happy to help
where we can. But if you are so inclined (we do incur expenses for maintaining
the site), we have a button on the homepage just above the Google bar for taking
donations>>
BTW, I wrote this purposefully below the main body in case you did not want to
post it.
<<No worries mate...we post everything. Eric Russell>>
- Salt water aquarium set up 6/27/06 -
Hi Bob,
<JasonC here today.>
I am looking for someone to set up a salt water aquarium in my home. I live in
Macon Ga, Do you know of anyone in this area?
<I personally do not, however you should make this inquiry at any/all of the
fish stores in your area. Likewise, keep your eyes on our daily FAQs as someone
may post an answer after they see this question.>
Thanks,
Cathy
<Cheers, J -- >
Connecting Tanks 6/26/06
I love the website and the books!
<Thank you for the compliment - we do try!>
I own a 55 gallon with 80 lbs of live sand and 55 lbs of live rock. All
parameters are looking good.
No trace of ammonia. <Nitrite, Nitrate? What I like to refer to as the ANN
levels (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate).> The tank includes a wet/dry trickle filter
with bio balls and the Coralife Super Skimmer.
1 - Coral Beauty Angelfish
3 - Green Chromis
2 - Ocellaris Clownfish
3 - Peppermint Shrimp
36 - Blue Hermit Crabs
4 - Turbo Snails
1 - Hairy Mushroom
I've never seen this done at home, but I was wondering if I could connect the 55
reef tank to a second 55 gallon.
<Of course you can!>
I have just bought the second tank and am not sure what I want to do with it.
<I suggest you decide this before considering whether to connect - some
combinations may be less beneficial than others. For example, a predatory fish
tank sharing water with a delicate reef environment may diminish water quality
in the reef aquarium.>
I was thinking of splitting up my fish or keeping one as a 55 gallon reef and
the second 55 to become something like a refugium or fish only tank.
<Using one as a refugium or similar system - for example a frag tank, would be a
fantastic idea. The main benefit of this would be to double the volume of water
in your system and hence increase chemical stability. Though you will need to
make sure that any equipment that you are using is sufficient to meet the
demands of this increased volume.>
Is this a terrible idea?
<Not at all - in fact you will probably find it to be very beneficial depending
on how you employ the second tank.>
I need some advice on the pro's and con's. I'm also not sure how to connect
them.
The LFS suggested an overflow box.
<I agree. You will need two connections, as per a standard sump/refugium layout,
of which one gravity feed the water from tank 1 to tank 2, whilst the second
connection will mechanically pump water back to tank 1, ensuring water
circulation between the two systems. Best of luck!>
Thanks for the help! You guys are the greatest.
See you at Houston. - Anne
Set-Up...Plumbing, Pump Size 6/22/06
Hi every one (newbie to reefing from UK here) I've been searching through
WWM but cant seem to find an answer...
I'm setting up a 5ftx24x18 reef tank and I would like to know what size pipes,
how many pipes, sump tank, and return pump I would need for it to be a winner.
I would be great full
<grateful>
of any help/advice you can give.
<In your 110 gallon tank, if no powerheads are to be used, I would recommend a
pump of at least 1200 gph, and minimum drain pipe of 1.5 inches in diameter, a
15 gallon sump, and four 1/2" return lines to the tank at equal spacing. You
can make a manifold out of PVC tees that can screw into the pump outlet. Read
here and
related articles/FAQ's above title line also.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm In future queries, please do
a spelling and grammar check. It saves us much time if we do not have to do
this for you. Thank you, James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for your time
<You're welcome.>
Re: First Salt Water tank... for sure 6/17/06
see additional below ( in color and not in caps) and thanks!
<<My further responses in double carats. RMF>>
Hi,
I am in hopes of guidance because after someone recommended your website I was
amazed of all the answers... too many.
<Not possible... they are indexed, there is a competent search tool...>
This was a complement but still so much information but applies to a wide
variety so it becomes general
<<I see... thank you. Do you have ideas on how this information might be better
presented, organized?>>
My problem is that I decided I finally wanted to start my first salt water tank
and the Local Pet Shop recommended for ease to start with a Reef and
add fish as I go along. SO that is what I am trying to do. I truly love the
look and am sure I will love the hobby. Part of the problem is that I went
into this not realizing that this would be such a money pit.
I shopped and shopped and now have the following set up.
* 145 gal Acrylic Cube type Aquarium 36" wide x 30" deep by 30" high.
<Very tall... hard to light, get your arms (hope they're long) into...>
:)
o The tank is plumbed underneath the back overflow inside the tank
<?> In other words I do not have to hang anything on the tank. The fittings are
below the tank under the overflow
<<Ahh, I see>>
* 30 gal sump (no filtration or internal walls, simply a tank
* ASM G2 Skimmer
* 150lbs of Live Rock
* 100lbs of Live Sand
* Gen-X PCX 40 Pump
* Tunze Stream 6060 Pump
* 250w Pendant Metal Halide
* SCWD current switching device
* Kent Marine Aquadoser 5: Float switch and auto-refill
* Rio 2500 powerhead pump
* UV Sterilizer (not sure of make or model)
Any comments about the about equipment and how it will serve me?
<<Good to medium choices in product lines... but relatively complete, should
work... with some careful set-up, maintenance... I'd make a daily, weekly,
monthly, more periodic checklist here>>
The main problem is that I got 100 different directions. Since I am a total
rookie, I wanted first to master the easy way to do the reef and then play with
it as the previous owner did.
<No shortcuts here... you need to learn what you're doing...>
You make it seem that you have to know what you are doing in order to do it,
there is no help along the way?
<<Mmm, unfortunately not many... After a few decades of effort in trying to
"make known what needs to be made known" in person and in writing, it is my
steadfast opinion that the "field" of marine aquarium keeping is/has become so
complex that a semi-thorough grounding in some aspects of science (biology,
chemistry, physics...), engineering... even psychology (!) are called for, ahead
of actual purchase, install of these systems. Too easy otherwise to experience
(deadly) failure... and/but on the plus-side, the more-you-know commensurately
the greater will be your enjoyment, fulfillment with the experience>>
I had a guy come out to set up my tank for me (Recommended by the Local Pet
Shop) The guys told me that I had no filtration going on so he recommended
that I put bio-balls in my over-flow. He hooked up my UV sterilizer and I put in
about 200 bio-balls in the over-flow (didn't make a dent).
The guys that sold me the tae told me that I shouldn't use a UV Sterilizer or
the bio-balls. The guy that sold me the Skimmer told me to use the UV
sterilizer.
This was my biggest problem as the previous owner sez not to use the sterilizer
and the bio-balls and the guy that set up my tank sez I need them. I am hoping
for some guidance here.
<<Is posted... we have a few tens of thousands of visitors/users daily... Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm
and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
and the linked files above in these series till you understand "enough" to make
up your own mind>>
I am totally doomed!
<I wouldn't go that/this far>
I picked up a book (Natural Reef Aquariums, Tullock)
<Know John well>
and it just provides a lot of suggestions but not for my particular case.
Can you help? If I don't do the bio-balls what filtration am I using?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
See the blue file names? These are links... read the ones on filtration> thanks
for the help with that one If I don't use the UV Sterilizer am I more likely to
get sick fish?
<Whether or not... see WWM re UVs...>
I thought the UV sterilizer was an easy answer to a possible complicated
problem.
<Is a useful tool, not a cure-all by any means>
So are you saying to create a reef with coral, a UV sterilizer is okay?
<<Is "okay", but not necessary... is a useful adjunct, tool to otherwise
good/complete filtration and maintenance practices>>
Needing help. BTW, how do I become a member?
<We don't do/have memberships... by participating, reading, writing... you are>
Michael Grose
<Take all this a bit at a time Michael... not hard, but involved... can, will
become engrossing, but needs your giving/taking. Bob Fenner>
<<Are you sure you want to "do" marine aquarium keeping Mike? Many busy folks
have others set-up, take care of these systems as more "kinetic art" than
involved aquarists... I strongly encourage you to consider this... Perhaps you'd
do better/best by reading over another "complete" work on the subject. I am the
author of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist (in the same series as John
Tullock), but there are many other worthy written works on the subject. Bob
Fenner>>
- Marine Aquariums... pondering possibilities 6/15/06 -
WWM Crew -
New to WWM and loving your site (wish I would have found it sooner)!
I've scoured for many hours trying to find info related to my questions but I
have been unable to nail down the specifics of what I'm in need of answering, so
here goes.....
Quick history:
Live in Michigan. Currently have a 55 gallon marine tank (8 yrs old) with 5 fish
(clown, pink spotted goby, cardinal, royal Gramma, Foxface) and live rock.
Closest LFS is 35 minutes away. I've saved $3000 to put towards my next marine
adventure. I'm at a point where I've saved enough money to expand on what I have
and I'm toying with two different possibilities for the next step.
Possibility #1 - spend the entire amount on one awesome large tank. <Believe it
or not, $3000 won't get you very far in the "awesome" department in marine
tanks. That budget could get a pretty decent 75-90 gallon tank started (as in up
and running), but not quite all the way to the finish line (fully stocked with
nothing left to purchase).>
Possibility #2 - spend the money on many smaller tanks to keep a rather large
assortment of fish and with the help of my son (who is in the process of
converting his own freshwater tank to marine) start our own mini-store in our
finished basement. For me this would be a benefit... I could continue to
observe many varieties of fish and also possibly make enough money to break
even. <While this would be fun from a hobbyist angle, it will likely never be a
profitable enterprise and will most likely barely pay the electric bill. Not
including the fact that unless you pick lots of small fish, then lots of small
tanks is less than ideal for anything of size for anything beyond temporary
holding.>
I'm leaning towards #2 and here's some questions/comments-
What size tank would you recommend if I was to have approximately 10 tanks?
<55-60? Depends more on how much space you have and the fish you want to keep.
Larger is always better.>
(I've looked into the MaRS Retailer System vs. buying 10-20 gallon tanks and
outfitting them each with a bio-wheel, heater, hood. The tanks come out cheaper
but would that be the best way to go? <For retail display systems, this is a
better way to go, but the design of these systems is based on a wholesale/retail
holding system and not long term care.>
Will just a bio-wheel be adequate to maintain the tanks? (on my current tank I
have a canister filter, protein skimmer, powerhead) <A protein skimmer always
helps.>
Recommendations/contacts for livestock, food, aquariums in the Michigan area?
<If you're in the Ann Arbor area, look up Tropicorium. If you're in the East
Lansing/Lansing area, look up Preuss' Pets.>
Is this insane? <Not insane, but perhaps not completely thought out. Do consider
carefully what it will cost you on a reoccurring basis to maintain a large
holding system - will this really make you money or just drain it out of your
wallet? If you want to make money, then you need to approach this like a
business which means you need a business plan, marketing research, etc. - is
there anyone around to make money with? This is just a start, but going through
these motions should influence your decision.>
Thank You for your time
Brian
<Cheers, J -- >
New 90 Gallon Setup 6/6/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Scott>
I am getting ready to expand an existing 40 gal (no sump) LR setup and have
been pouring over your website for weeks now for your expert guidance (thank
you!). Current non-fish "residents" are a diadema, two cleaner shrimp,
peppermint shrimp, some star polyps and zoanthids (LR stowaways) and a turbo
snail. All doing very well. Fish include a purple firefish, flametail blenny and
a magnificent golden angel that is currently in separate quarantine.
<Centropyge aurantius? This angel species needs many times this many gallons of
space>
The new tank will be primarily for expanded fish display (sixline wrasse,
sharknose goby, and possibly a purple tang and/or juvenile emperor angelfish),
<... not enough room for either of these last two>
mixed with some other compatible invertebrates. My thought is to move the entire
system over to the 90 gal, than add fresh (quarantined) LR in ~10-15 lb batches
over time.
<Still not enough room...>
I believe I have a "plan" for the new arrangement but wonder if you would
kindly comment and/or offer suggestions...
<See WWM re Systems, Compatibility subfaqs files for the organisms listed>
Tank will be 90 gallon Oceanic with two overflow boxes (say 500 to 1000 gph
each). I'll use a few powerheads for internal flow but mostly rely on the return
flow for circulation.
Sump will be Ecosystem 3612 - hopefully to (1) provide copepods and other
food, (2) serve as an algae filter and (3) provide touted benefits of "miracle
mud" such as enhanced color. Question (if you please) - since Caulerpa is
illegal in California, can you kindly suggest alternative macroalgae which fits
the above objectives?
<Is posted on WWM... see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm
and the file linked above in series>
(I have Mr. Fenner's Reef Invertebrates book but I don't have experience growing
macroalgae).
<Easy, fun to do>
The Ecosystem literature states a protein skimmer is not necessary but I will
use one based on other feedback (including your site!). I am thinking about a
slightly smaller skimmer (Euro Reef CS 80) due to the presence of the Ecosystem.
Would you do this or do you think the CS 100 would be worth using?
<Yes>
Summers get pretty hot in So. Cal so I am planning to use a chiller (better
than running home AC continuously). Can/would you comment on experience with
Aqualogic vs. Coralife vs. JBJ Artica?
<Mmm, I would look to querying on BB's re a wider input of actual experience
here>
Also, would you recommend piping the chiller "in-line' on the return pump or use
a separate loop off the back end of the sump?
<If you have enough flow, pressure, I would tie this chiller in with the
existing plumbing>
I am debating the pros/cons of a submersible pump versus an external pump
(Iwaki). Right now I am leaning to the external pump if there is enough space.
Are there benefits to one over the other or does it come down to personal
preference?
<Externals are superior in most circumstances... more efficient, less
waste-heat... less potential for trouble>
For the lighting I am leaning to power compacts, say 3-4 rows so the lighting
can be switched on/off to mimic daily cycle of light intensity. Can you suggest
what level of intensity would best benefit the above described system?
<Again, posted...>
Again, any thoughts/critique would be greatly appreciated.
Scott in (hot) So Cal
<Bob Fenner, also here. When, where in doubt Scott... keep reading>
Re: tank setup 4/18/06
Thank you Jodie for your info. Like I said, I'm new to this and could use all
the advice I can get.
<Great to hear! I love it when people WANT to research and get advice. Good
start.>
I will look into the Remora. Also a couple more questions: When I set the tank
up, I used regular freshwater gravel. Will that be
sufficient or should I change that out to crushed coral?
<You'll certainly want to change that out. Crushed coral is fine, Southdown
sand is great if you want a DSB, or aragonite (my personal choice).>
I used regular tap water 4 gallons at a time with salt until dissolved. Should I
have used distilled water?
<Tap water can cause unwanted algae blooms. I'd look into getting an RO/DI
unit.>
How many pounds of live rock would you suggest? I was thinking of 1 lb per
gallon so in a 55 gallon tank I was going to use 55 lbs of
Fiji premium rock.
<That's a good start. It depends on what look you're going for. If 55 lbs
fills it up how you like it, it should be fine. Unless you're depending on your
LR as your filtration source, then you'll want closer to 2 lbs per gallon.>
Could you recommend a reputable online store to purchase the live rock and
future fish.
<I'm not sure if I'm supposed to recommend e-tailers on the WWM site.
<<Bob?>> As for purchasing your fish online, I'd recommend trying your LFS
first. That way you can see what you're buying, watch it eat, make sure it's
not sick/injured. If they don't have what you want, they'll likely order it for
you. That is, after all, the business they're in.>
P.S. Should I put all the rock in the tank at the same time or limit so many
lbs per week.
<If you make sure it's well cured, you should have no issues putting it in the
tank all at the same time. If it's not, then the die-off would foul up your
water pretty quickly. I would, of course, recommend curing it and adding to the
tank BEFORE you consider adding any fish. The LR alone may be enough to
jump-start your cycle.>
P.P.S. If i am going over board with questions just tell me to shut up!!
lol
<Shut up Chris! No, don't shut up. Keep asking questions! That way you'll get
it right the first time. You'll save yourself, your fishes, and, well ME, a lot
of grief. :-) Cheerio! Jodie>
THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ADVISE
Chris K.
Re: tank setup 4/21/06
Hi, it's Chris again.
<Hi, it's Jodie again, still adding your capitals and punctuation.>
I took your advice and removed all the freshwater gravel and replaced it with 40
lbs of aragonite crushed coral and 40 lbs of Arag-Alive sand.
<Good to hear. I'd also recommend seeing if some local reefers would donate a
bit of their sand. I've found that it contains much more diversity than
Arag-Alive.>
I also drained all the water cleaned the tank and refilled. OK now I
think I am ready for the rock. I keep getting different opinions from
LFS. Could you please advise me which would be better -- cured or uncured.
<A matter of opinion/circumstance.>
I am thinking the uncured, so the tank could cycle while the rock is curing but
I am unsure.
<That will work, yes (though you don't want to add uncured rock to a stocked
tank). You have to run a skimmer full-time to avoid fouling up your tank, and
keep a careful eye on ammonia/nitrates. If they get too high, you're basically
killing all the good stuff that makes live rock "live".>
And I was going to start out with 50 lbs of Fiji. I not trying to set up a reef
tank, just a simple setup with some rock, a few fish, and 1 or 2 anemones.
<Again, please research anemones very thoroughly. They require basically
perfect water quality, very intense lighting, and a mature
tank. Please-please-please don't impulse buy an anemone. It will die...unless
it's an Aiptasia.>
Thanks again in advance for all your info!!!!
<Glad to help. Jodie>
Chris K.
Set-up Q's, new hobbyist 4/12/06
Hi there Bob and crew,
<Rick>
I am new to saltwater ( few weeks ago, gave up my freshwater discus) and very
excited already. I got a 90 gallon tank with overflow box built-in, 36" sump
with refugium, AquaC skimmer ev-120 with mag-drive500 , PhosBan reactor, quiet
one 4000hh return pump, Artica 1/5 chiller, UV sterilizer, with these equipments
ready to rock and roll. (planning to get the Korallin calcium reactor with co2
tank) Please let me know how to and how long to cycle my tank, when is it the
appropriate time to add LR+LS, and when to add corals, I have tried to find it
on the WWM search engine, but not much luck. can you please give me the link to
these question.
thank you very much.
Rick
<Are all posted on WWM... along with much more needed related material. My best
advice is to use the indices, starting here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
Enjoy the process, and take good notes. Bob Fenner>
Re: ** new hobbyist
thanks Bob , I got your book couple days ago... currently only chapter 2,
but, learning a lot already, thanks
Rick
<Ahh! Know you will enjoy, gain by the experience. Enjoy the process. Bob
Fenner>
Set up, Skimming, and UV 03-21-06
Hi <Hi!>
Again Thanks for your WWW & you guys rock!
So after years with a 55 gallon fish only tank & just bought & set up a 180.
<Yay! Bigger is better.>
The set ups is 2 days old. Seeded with some sand from old tank & older
filter foam. I also bought the Aqua C 180. & 2 1/2 of Aragamite Select.
Questions: So When should I install the Skimmer? <Most here agree that skimming
while cycling is a good idea, so start now.> & did I buy the wrong substrate? (
.5 - 1.0 mm ) <It seems the mindset IS a little bit bigger, the smallest being
somewhere between 1.5mm and 2mm.> as I like at least 2". I grabbed & installed
what I thought was a bit larger in diameter. Is this or will this be a problem?
<I don't think so, but you might have to watch with powerheads and whatnot
moving it around too easily later on.>
& When should I turn on the UV? Thanks! <Is this going to stay a Fish Only
tank? I don't personally believe in using UV at all, however there are others
that have used with success.
You may want to read here for more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm >
Sincerely, Jonny
<Good luck and enjoy! Jen S.>
New Set Up Advice - 02/20/2006
I have been reading your site and The Conscientious Marine Aquarist for the
past 2 months and found all the help you dispense immensely helpful.
<Bob's glad to offer them and we're happy to help!>
I am looking to set up a fish and invertebrate tank with a few hardy corals. The
main setup I have is as follows 140gal tank with overflow box, megaflow 4 sump,
Reef Devil ETSS Skimmer and in sump return pump. Since it's better to do it
right at the beginning I thought I would get a few basic questions down before
actually setting up the tank.
<OK.>
Should I use the sump as is with the bio balls or try and turn it into a
refugium?
<This is covered quite extensively on WWM and really depends on the path you
decide to follow. I'd go with a refugium though.>
If the answer is to convert it, can the sump be converted easily?
<As nothing is running yet, yes.>
How deep a sand bed should I have? I get conflicting answers from everything
I've read.
<Again covered extensively here. Generic answer; 3" or more, 1/2" or less.>
How much LR should I use for such a set up?
<All your preference here also. Most common to use 1-2 lbs. per gallon.>
Thanks for all the help
<Sure thing. - Josh>
New Setup of a 125 - 02/20/06
Hi Crew,
Amazing site and can't say enough good things about it! I am thinking about
converting my 125 freshwater tank, and after reading as much as I could on your
site and a few others, feel that I am ready. On to the questions! The tank
doesn't have an overflow, and is currently set up with an Eheim 2028, and 2
Emperor 400's for filtration. For the marine tank, I am thinking about using
150-175lbs of live rock, 4 Aquaclear 802 power heads, a protein skimmer (not
sure of the brand just yet), and the canister for mechanical/chemical
filtration. I won't have a sump and was wondering if this filtration / water
movement would be sufficient for this large of a tank.
<Can be made to work... depending on what livestock...>
I am fairly certain that I want to get a snowflake eel, and possibly a lion
fish, and maybe 1 or 2 other tankmates that are suitable to be housed with a
lionfish. (will research this further after the tank has been going for a month
with the live rock) My main concern is that I have heard a few different
opinions from the LFS in the area regarding needing a sump, but feel that the
turnover from the powerheads (rated at 400 each - so that would be 1600) and the
canister (300 gph) and the additional protein skimmer (not sure yet) would be at
least turning the water over 16X an hour.
<Sumps are useful, not necessary technology>
Also I just wanted to make sure that the above equipment would be sufficient to
run this take, and that nothing further down the road would be needed.
Thank you in advance, and keep up the excellent site!
<Thank you... Bob Fenner>
Setup Questions For New Aquarium - 02/20/06
Dear WWM crew,
(Good evening Eric)
<<Good morning Andrew>>
Once again, thank you for your reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
But, after doing more research I have some more questions for you.
<<Ok>>
Here goes... I have completed the fish part of the inhabitants
list. It is as follows;
Maroon Clown qty. 1
Yellow Tang qty. 1
Flame Angel qty. 1
Auriga Butterfly qty. 1
Blue Green Reef Chromis qty. 5
<<Ah, very nice...and pretty much "fills you up!">>
But the plumbing is what I've really been working on. It's fairly
simple and I feel it may be missing something so again (grin) you have
free rein.
<<Hee!>>
But, first I'd like to clear up some of my own confusion.
<<Always good to clean...er...clear up after yourself <grin>.>>
In my earlier message you suggested having two 1.5 inch bulkheads and
having one plumbed directly with a 1000 gph pump. Can a 1.5 inch bulkhead
handle this much flow?
<<Yes, when plumbed as a closed-loop.>>
You had suggested two 1.5 inch bulkheads for 1000 gph (total) so I was
confused.
<<Ah, I see...I shall try to explain without being to verbose. With the
closed-loop you are "pushing/pulling" the water through the pipe with the
pump. This allows you to "maximize" the volume/capacity of the pipe. With an
overflow system you are reliant upon the water "falling" through the pipe
assisted only by gravity and the weight of the water (volume) behind
it. Usually, a gravity overflow will never get close to handling (practically
speaking) the volume of water the pipe diameter is rated for under "powered"
conditions and attempting to do so usually results in excess noise and other
problems from air entrainment. Thus, I recommend folks size their
pipe/bulkheads for overflow system to handle "double" (or more!) the expected
capacity.>>
It doesn't make that much difference in my plan though. I can either
get a smaller pump or a larger bulkhead.
<<I see>>
Otherwise, I was thinking this:
90 gallon aquarium drilled with two 1.5 inch bulkheads. As mentioned
above, have one bulkhead plumbed directly to a 700-1000 gph pump (would greatly
appreciate any pump suggestions)
<<For submersible pumps...Eheim or Mag-Drive would be my choice, for
external...Iwaki, Gorman-Rupp, or the afore mentioned Eheim.>>
that then pumps the water back into the tank via return manifold. The
second bulkhead would go down into a "Y". One side would empty into the sump
and the second would be capped off for expansion. Second sump, refugium,
etc.) The sump would be a simple 25 gallon tub to hold the skimmer, heaters,
probes. (Could also hold more live rock or other items)
<<Indeed...such as chemical media (Poly-Filter, carbon).>>
This tub would then be plumbed into a 300-500 gph pump (Again, any
suggestions on pump welcome) that pumps the water into the above mentioned
return manifold.
<<Mmm, I would keep this separate from the closed-loop manifold. Do
have a read here re, the indices in blue will help too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm
>>
This could also be a prime spot to put a fluidized bed filter as you
suggested. That's my (proposed) plumbing set-up.
<<Sounds pretty good, do look in to separating the two returns.>>
Next, I have more filtration questions. I researched the following
skimmers and had the following questions. Please suggest one based on
it's compatibility with my system and value. AquaC EV 120 (Worth the price?)
<<Yes>>
AquaC Urchin Pro (Too small?)
<<Marginal>>
I have heard great things about these skimmers from several
sites/vendors. Are they as efficient as they say they are?
<<I believe them to be, yes.>>
EuroReef CS080 (Too small?)
<<Again, marginal.>>
EuroReef CS100 (Is it worth it?)
<<Yes, a better choice.>>
I know the truth to the saying "You get what you pay for" (I've owned a
SeaClone) but are these skimmers that much better than the others?
<<I know what you mean...I have a ER CS12-3...I have never regretted the
decision to buy this skimmer for a moment. EuroReef skimmers are my current fav.>>
ASM G-series I read several reviews about these skimmers and found that
the owners were generally pleased with them as long as you got the model
recommended for twice the size of your system.
<<Agreed...folks I know with these skimmers have expressed pleased
results.>>
My other filtration question is about the fluidized bed filter. The
only model I've seen is the Pentair Aquatics FB 300, FB 600. Are these
considered good? If not could you suggest a different model?
<<These should perform fine. The 'QuickSand' filters sold by Aquatic
Eco-Systems also look promising.>>
Finally, would a refugium be of any value to this system?
<<Oh yes! (nitrate reduction/export, breeding ground for/introduction
of beneficial critters, etc.)>>
If so, which type of organisms would I stock it with?
<<Please do a search on our site re 'refugium' for more info/selections,
but my preference is a reverse-daylight vegetable refugium with DSB.>>
I know I've thrown many questions at you and greatly appreciate your
answers. (My future fish thank you for your knowledgeable reply.)
<<Is my pleasure to assist. Thank you for writing so well/expressing
clearly.>>
WWM in general is the greatest source of aquatic information on the
net. I catch myself spending hours reading articles that have nothing to do
with my predicament.
<<Ah, but all will help/be of use, hopefully to prevent you from
experiencing the same "predicament"...knowledge is power my friend, do keep
reading.>>
Thank you for your time,
Andrew
<<Regards, EricR>>
Mudskippers ... tidepool system planning 2/14/06
Hi crew,
Great site.
Bit of a weird question, Just found my LFS selling mudskippers and have a vision
of a tank set up but unsure how to get it and wondered if you could help.
<Will try>
I would like to have a tidal tank, I have a 4 foot Tank which I would like to
divide in two halves, one
Side with skipper/skippers in and the other with Fiddler crabs in, I would like
to set it up so I could
have high tide in one side and low tide in the other side then every 4 hours or
so the tide changes
So the high tide water flows into the low tide side Increasing the water level
to high tide,
Is this possible?
<Yes>
If so what would I need?
<A mechanism... a pump, some means of "turning" the water hither and yon>
How would I set it up?
<A few possibilities... I'd go semi-high-tech., and look for float switches, a
controller (these are commercially available) to pump the water slowly from one
side, then over to the other... Look to Octopus, Neptune... as controller
brands...>
And could it be done on a budget?
<If you're handy...>
If I can’t set my vision up I will not get them but I have longed to have
skippers for a long time, please help
Many thanks
Stu
<Do please keep good notes, take some pix and write up your experiences to
share... I will help you sell to the print/pulp and e-zine markets. Bob Fenner>
New SW System 2/6/06
Hello from Canada,
<Howdy from Southern Cal.>
I have been perusing your site for about a month now and have gotten a lot of
excellent information. I am deciding on what would be the best start for me. I
have nothing so far as a system yet but will be buying in the next couple of
months. I am not overly impressed by my local fish store and am wondering about
purchasing items over the net.
<I see>
Any recommendations on the best places to buy (please keep in mind I am in
Canada and shipping may be high). I am looking for a 40 to 60 gal. tank to start
and am sure I will upgrade in the future after getting some experience. I will
buy the tank locally as there are some good choices but I am still having
problems with the equipment. Do you feel it is worthwhile to purchase a
"complete" system as it is sold in the store or putting something together
myself?
<Mmm... IF you know exactly what you are looking for... and this is otherwise
not available locally for about the same net landed cost/s... It MAYBE
worthwhile to purchase some, most distally>
I need to have another look but I didn't see any live sand in the store. I have
family on the Atlantic coast and could possibly get them to ship me some sand.
Would this be a problem considering how different the environments are?
<Mmm, no... the folks who ship LR, LS et al. live product are proficient at
determining weather, packing for same>
Any suggestions or information you are able to provide on any of these topics
would be greatly appreciated! I will continue reviewing the site for other
information and thank you for making such an amazing site available!
Jon Goulden
<Glad to see you applying yourself ahead of monetary investment... Keep good
notes, collect opinions, facts and you'll do fine. Feel free to check in with us
re specifics as your plan comes together. Bob Fenner>
New 125 Gallon Setup - 02/05/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello Andrew>>
I am seeking some help with a setup. Please do not hold back, if you have
differing views or ideas about something please share.
<<Usually do <grin>.>>
I am on the verge of purchasing a 125 gallon All-Glass aquarium. (Very excited
about this!)
<<I'll bet!>>
It is intended to be a marine fish only system with live rock.
<<Cool!>>
I am getting it from a local dealer and have obtained the stats. The dimensions
are 72x18x22 (inches). I have the option of buying it pre-drilled or having a
glass company drill it. I have concerns about both options.
<<Ok>>
If I have it pre-drilled I am afraid it may not have large enough
bulkheads. Pre-drilled it comes with two 1" holes for output into the sump and
two 3/4" holes for returns.
<<"Holes" or "bulkheads"?...either way too small.>>
I was thinking about using both holes as output and then returning it over the
back with a manifold system.
<<A possibility>>
(I want about a 1300 GPH turnover rate in the aquarium.) I can either do that
or have the back panel drilled by a glass shop. My only concern with this is
that they cannot guarantee that the aquarium will come out in one piece. Which
option (if either) would you recommend?
<<Can you not request the manufacturer to pre-drill for larger bulkheads (1 1/2"
- 2")? Or maybe increase the number of throughputs? If not, I would be
inclined to have the tank drilled (or drill it myself) after the fact.>>
My other question is about the support. I can either purchase a stand or build
one. I have built stands for aquariums before but never for one this large. Is
it even safe to attempt?
<<Sure it is (I built the stand for my 375g tank)...principles are the same, you
just need to use materials beefy enough to hold the weight. A Google search
would likely turn up some useful info.>>
I really don't want to buy this size aquarium only to come home to a broken
stand and shattered aquarium.
<<This is understandable. If you doubt your abilities, a manufactured stand may
be best.>>
I have found Do-It-Yourself plans but am weary.
<<???>>
I would just like to know if it is a safe practice or not.
<<Like anything else...is safe when done properly.>>
My last question is about the filtration. I obviously want to incorporate a
sump into the setup and wanted to know more about the right kind of
filtration. Being a FOWLR setup I was thinking of building a sump that had an
abundant amount of mechanical filtration.
<<Mmm...only if you plan to service regularly (weekly).>>
I was thinking several layers of mesh. Would this be the proper type of setup
to include the bio-balls or something similar?
<<I would forego both of these and employ one or two fluidized-bed filters for
additional bio-filtration and a canister filter for chemical/carbon
filtration. As for removing solids, try putting filter socks on the outlets
from the tank (also cleaned/swapped out weekly...or more often as needed.>>
The last item is the protein skimmer. What type/model would you recommend for
this size setup?
<<AquaC, Euro-Reef, ASM...follow the manufacturer's recommendation on sizing.>>
Thank you for your time,
Andrew
<<Regards, EricR>>
P.S. I have read Mr. Fenner's book (The Conscientious Marine Aquarist ) and
found his section on the capture of wild fishes (both legal and illegal) very
interesting. You don't see a lot about it and I learned much from the
section. Please pass on my compliments to Mr. Fenner, I found the book to be
quite good and more importantly, informing.
<<I very much agree...EricR>> <Thank you for your comments. RMF>
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