Question From the Caribbean, Same as SNL Bassomatic skit... 
Plans it, collects it, Self-made Marine System!
You really have a great website. Incredible amounts of information.
<Glad to share>
I have a question that I could not find an answer to by reading through (possibly my fault!).  I've had experience just with fresh water tanks, but have been planning on a saltwater tank for long. I even designed and built my own wet/dry
filter and bought all the gear needed to start my tank when I had to move from my native Costa Rica to Jamaica.
<Okay>
Now that I have been living here for a year I resurrected the plans, but I'm beginning in a smaller scale.  I have already bought a 30 gallon tank, a power filter, a skimmer, and I am toying with the idea of Live Rock. (I need to address lighting too) I live 3 blocks form the ocean and the whole island is surrounded by coral reefs.
<Tough life>
My plans at this time were to collect some rock directly from the reef (totally legal here) and use 3" of very fine white sand collected wet from the beach. Setting everything up, and letting the rock cure in the tank as it cycles. Change water weekly (15-20%) and wait a month or two to see how it comes up.
<Sounds good>
Later I would decide on fish. Please tell me what is basically wrong with all this.
<Nothing appears wrong, deficient... and you have the great opportunity to add, return livestock to boot!>
All help is appreciated (especially If what I plan makes absolutely no sense!)
Thanks in advance.
Luis Gutierrez
<I would proceed with your plan. Bob Fenner>

The Filter
I have a 40 gallon aquarium that I would like to use as a marine Fish Only aquarium, but it is not "reef ready", (i.e. it is a basic aquarium that does not have any built in overflow).
<I would try a wet/dry filter with a prefilter box>
I am currently researching filtration systems, and the bottom line is that I would like an effective filtration system (that incorporates a skimmer of course), yet does not require apparatus on the rear of the tank.  Please advise. thanks 
<you would most likely have to purchase the wet/dry and the prefilter box separate from the skimmer, but I advise purchasing both of them, IanB>

Big Plans For A Small World!
Dear Crew.
<Scott F. at your service!>
I wrote several emails last week in regards to skimmers and sundries to which Scott was immensely helpful. Many thanks to him, (or you if you're the poor recipient of this email).
<Ahh! It's me again! LOL>
I thought I had my setup sorted (remaining gear to acquire) until the 'shocking realization' - ok that was a dramatization - that some aspects of the setup will/can be dictated by the future inhabitants.
<A great epiphany, believe me!>
To reiterate, I'm setting up a 24x24x18 (170L/45US gal) tank with ample live rock and the required life-support systems (live rock included). I really want the tank to be as peaceful as possible with 3 small fish and for it to be an analogue of freshwater planted tanks (macroalgae and soft corals) to compliment my S. American planted pseudo-biotope (pseudo-oxymoron?) in the opposite corner of the room.
<Sounds very cool to me!>
The hope is to have a small fish who tends the substrate;
A small fish who scoots between the rockwork; And a small fish who just, well, swims about at all levels picking at the rockwork and looking 'relatively' natural. All these guys/gals must be as peaceful/compatible as possible and of course, as striking in appearance as possible, compromises notwithstanding =) My aim is to be understocked so if three fish becomes two via your recommendations I wont argue the toss.
<Lots of great fishes fit this description! Blennies, wrasses, gobies, Basslets, etc...Nice fishes to work with!>
So what was the shocking realization? Well, all things being equal, and when are they with the aquarium hobby(?), the fish will be the last major additions to the tank and I was hoping for some suggestions or even a flat out 'you beaut' combination that's most always successful.
<I think that it would be cool to have a few of my favorites in there. Here are a few to get you started: How 'bout a Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), a Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi),and a Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica or M. decora)...Just a few thoughts. You could consider dozens of other similar fishes...>
The information you graciously pass on will dictate more clearly whether I'll need things such as a DSB or shallow substrate with a refugium, substrate colour, enough live rock for bio filtration and aesthetic appeal or heaps of live rock for said filtration and refuge/food source for a recommended fish and so on.
<I love your approach! It's great to design a system around the needs of its inhabitants...>
I can (I have) read numerous books but stating a fish is peaceful
doesn't mean it's peaceful - peaceful with what other species? not all surely! - and to be frank I don't trust the local LFS' that sell marine livestock. You folks on the other hand...
<LOL...Well, this is a combo of fishes I have tried, and it works nicely, providing color and interest (not to mention, small fishes!)>
I love blennies, gobies, Firefishes, dwarf angels (flame angels are absolutely stunning, I don't care how common they are!), hawk fishes, wrasses and on it goes. Stocking the tank with fish wont be happening for at least a couple of months after the initial setup (in a couple of weeks), excluding quarantine time.
<You are becoming my hero, man! Excellent approach/philosophy!>
My apologies if this is all rather confusing - I've put my head in a spin, now, but hopefully not yours (the poor recipient of this email =)
Many thanks and many regards
Kendal McGuire.
<No problem Kendal, spinning is good for the circulation! Seriously- I think that your approach is great, and you'll have as much fun planning and stocking this system as you will observing it! Good luck! Remember, though- these are just my opinions, but maybe they will give you some "food for thought" (or make you want to throw up...LOL) Regards, Scott F>

Headache Relief (Avoiding Mistakes From The Start!>
Hola Scott (if you're doing your thing tonight),
<Tryin' to! LOL>
Thanks again.  Saved me from more headaches I'm sure.  Passing on the Moorish Idol, the Copperband, and the damsels.
<Yeah! Good decisions; I'm sure that you won't regret them!>
Will try a yellow tang and maybe an easier butterfly.  Still researching.
<That's the key!>
Have run the tank with tap water for a week and everything seems to be working, so getting ready to add the saltwater, rock and substrate. For the substrate all that is available here is crushed coral.  How useful would it be to grind it into something finer, closer to sand?  I only plan on using about 1/2", so just wondering if it really will make any difference to have
a finer grained substrate.
<That's  topic open to much debate. I suppose that if you're just using a half an inch or so, then the size of the substrate is probably of little consequence>
Also, the guy I am getting the rock from has offered to provide me with 60 gallons of aged salt water from his tanks, to mix with another 60g of new. He uses RO water.  Is there some value (or risk) in doing this, or should I just make a fresh batch for the whole 120g?
<I'd use my own water, mixed up specifically for my own tank...Just a better way to go, IMO>
I was also thinking of just using aged tap water for the other half (been in a big plastic container for about a week with a power head), and then buying RO water to do water changes/top offs.  This make sense, or should I go
ahead get RO water to begin with?
<For the best results, you'd be happier using RO for the entire amount of required water. Why not start off with the best possible water?>
Thanks again for all your help.  Any advice would be mucho apreciado. Best regards,
Jim
<No problemo, Jim! Hope that the system is every bit as successful as you envision it! Keep us posted! Regards, Scott F>

Mysterious Losses...
Hi WetWebMedia Crew:
<Hi there. Scott F. at your service!>
I emailed a while back asking about a list of fish that I had picked out... and unfortunately I haven't gotten very far!  I tried starting my tank with two green Chromis (was going to get more later), and they haven't done well.  I've read as much as I can find and I can't seem to diagnose the problem.  As a last resort, I thought I'd bother you again... thanks in advance.  
<Not a bother- that's why we're here...>
First, here's my system:
75 g with 10 g sump flowing into a 20 gallon tank with a DSB (Bio-active aragonite, sugar grain size... pseudo-live sand).  There will be day/night alternating lighting in display and 20 gallon tank.  1" of same sand in display tank (total system sand is 100-120 lbs), 75 lbs. Fiji LR placed in two triangular peaks.  Iwaki MD-30RXT (nice flow!). No special lighting, only 2 - 40 W fluorescent bulbs.  Automatic homemade freshwater top-off (gravity run) and calcium hydroxide dosing.  RODI water.  Instant Ocean Salt, s.g. 1.022.  Chiller controls temperature set at 78 (fluctuates between 78 - 79 in the hot weather). Small Prizm protein skimmer (no real results yet with the skimmer.)
<sigh>
The brown algae is really start to take off -- it's everywhere, and there are little bubbles forming all over the live rocks where the light is most intense (Nitrogen, right?).
<Oxygen, actually. And the brown algae, although frustrating, is common in newer tanks with higher levels of nutrient and not-yet-mature nutrient export capabilities. With more productive skimming, water changes, and use of chemical filtration media (Poly Filter and/or carbon), it will decline>
I think that's everything pertinent. I can't think of anything I did to poison the water, but when I put the fish in, then started immediately to do poorly.  The first one seemed to hang out near the overflow and somehow got itself lodged on top of (yes,
on top of it, completely out of the water) the screen I had protecting my livestock from the overflow -- probably just bad luck, but it wasn't looking healthy before it died.  The second one lived for about a week and a half, but it never looked very good.  During the day, it would swim back and forth near the top of the water, as if trying to feed, but when food was present it would only meagerly eat. When the lights went out, it would go right to the edge of the tank and sit right under the
surface of the water.  There has to be enough oxygen, since there is a protein skimmer going, and for a few days I even ran another venturi pump to get more oxygen in the water, and it did not help. Then, today all of a sudden, the fish darted very quickly across the front of the tank, then almost jumped out of the water, then turned around and darted to the middle of the tank and instantly died.  
<That's weird..."Instant death" events are highly abnormal...>
I would have done a big water change, but all the water was new!  Does this sound like any specific type of poisoning, or anything familiar to you?  
<Well, by the way that your fishes were acting, I'd conclude that there was one of two things happening here: First would be some sort of toxic event, such as measurable ammonia or nitrite, or perhaps some poisoning (like household cleaners or paint). I'm curious what your ammonia, pH and nitrite readings are/were in this tank. A stupid question, but did this tank fully cycle? My other thought is simply poor quality livestock. Some fishes simply are not healthy to begin with, or may come in stressed and decline further in your tank. That's part of the reason why I am such a fanatic for quarantine. You really just don't know what you're getting when you add new fishes right to the display. I'd check with the dealer that you purchased the fish from and see if he's had similar losses of Chromis and other livestock...A third possibility would be a very serious disease, such as Amyloodinium (Velvet), which can cause difficulty breathing, among other symptoms, and can kill fishes rapidly. However, visible signs of tissue damage would have been obvious, in all likelihood.>
I did have a couple of fish before these and they didn't do well either. I attributed that to bad stock and incidental loss. (oops...)
<I'm still leaning towards that as a possibility. If they were all from the same dealer, I'd consider trying another source first>
The ONLY thing I can think of - and it seems very very improbable -is that my bucket of instant ocean salt is bad.  I had two clowns for almost a year, and when I moved them from my 20 gallon tank to a small holding aquarium (while I got my larger tank set-up), they died within hours.  When I moved them, I mixed 10 gallons of their old water with a few gallons of my new instant ocean salt (and acclimated them again). Since then, I have been able to keep nothing alive.  The salt doesn't dissolve very well, but I still have a hard time believing that it would be so screwed up as to kill everything in it.  
<Hmm...I wouldn't pin this on the salt itself, but you may consider the possibility that some contaminant got into it while it was stored...To be sure, I'd get a new bag and dump this current one..>
If it sounds like some random water problem, will just a complete water change with new salt help, or do I need to take everything out and sterilize it, etc...? (please say the former!)
<Well, your guess is as good as mine! However, I'd recommend trying some new salt, continuing with the RO/DI pre-treatment, utilizing aggressive skimming, chemical filtration, and water changes. Finally, quarantine all new livestock before adding to the tank, and try a new source for animals...That would eliminate a number of possibilities right there!>
Thanks again for your advice! Nathan Saetveit
<You're very welcome, Nathan. Don't give up...Hang in there. I'm sure that with a few procedural changes and a bit of investigating, you'll be able to figure this out. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Time To Reboot (Re-Starting A Tank!)
Greetings crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight>
Let me start by saying there is WAY too much conflicting information on the web and in books to make heads or tails of what to believe.
<Agreed!>
I started a SW tank in June of 2003. Since then I have gone through almost $400.00 worth of fish trying to make this thing work. I'm broke and at wit's end with this thing. I'm ready to pull the plug on it and make it into a planter. You guys are my last hope.
<Well, let's see what we can do here...>
The tank is a 28 gal. I have a Millennium 2000 filter, 17lbs of live rock, a powerhead for circulation, heater, and an actinic light. There are no fish in this tank. Ich has hit time and time again and methodically wiped out the fish. I had a QT running (10 gal) with filtration, some of the live rock from the display and a heater.
<Okay- one problem here...A quarantine tank is an excellent idea, and I commend you for embracing the practice! However, there is no need for live rock or sand in such a tank. These items can 1) carry potential parasites from the main system (!) 2) Interfere with the proper dosing of medications, if they are required, and 3) create difficult hiding places to extract fishes from when it's time to move them...Quarantine should be done in a bare bottomed tank, and you can use PVC sections or other inert items for hiding places for fishes. Check out this article I wrote on the process for more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm >
The fish (two clowns) were really happy in it for about 7 days. Then the chemicals got away from me and they started to show stress. In an attempt to save them, I moved them back into the display. To my horror, within 4 hours they were both COVERED in ich. Nothing  survived. Now I am left with a half full qt shutdown, a fishless display and information I question that was given to me by my local fish store. Here's the deal: He was given all the information about my tank and gave me this information to do: Bring the display tank to a SG of 1.02 (according to this site, that will do NOTHING to the ich) for 1 week (nowhere NEAR the time that I've read is needed to eradicate ich).
<I don't know what the specific gravity he was recommending was, but "hyposalinity" treatment, as it's known, can possibly work. I am not a big fan of the practice, however>
Then to put in a damsel (yet more money) for 5 days to see if it gets ich. (sort of like a test subject) I REALLY question this information.
<That's insane...This is te same type of guy who checks to see if his garbage disposal is on by sticking his hand down the drain...>
My alternative is to go to the other fish store and ask the guy that didn't know that there was a difference between a saltwater and fresh water fish, what to do. I live in West Virginia so that could also be a reason for their ignorance with seafaring life.
<Nah...There are very talented hobbyists all over the country that live nowhere near the oceans...If it were me, I'd start by leaving the display tank "fallow", without fishes, for at least a month. This will help eradicate the majority of the parasite population by depriving them of hosts. Then you can begin re-populating the tank slowly. It sounds to me like the tank may not have had a chance to cycle, as you indicated that "..chemicals got away" from you. I assume that you are referring to ammonia and/or nitrite? Measurable ammonia and nitrite are sur signs that something is amiss, or that the tank has not yet fully "cycled".>
I REALLY enjoyed the 13 days that I have had this tank that it didn't have any problems, but I just can't spend any more money on fish. HELP! I will do whatever you say to a "T"
and hope for the best. Thanks in advice, SIGNED: Now Bald Guy (for obvious reasons)
<Don't despair, you've come to the right place! The WWM site has tons of information on tank startup, cycling, and disease treatment. It sounds to me that you may need to sort of "reboot" the system by letting it cycle again, and starting over slowly. Short of completely breaking down the tank and starting over, this would be the best way, IMO. Also, pick up a copy of "The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael Paletta, which is an excellent reference for new hobbyists. Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is the other indispensable text on marine aquariology, IMO! Combine these books with the resources available on the WWM site, and I'm sure that you'll start growing you hair again! On your head, that is- not hair algae!) You can do it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Movin' On Up - 08/20/03
Hey crew,
<Hey Mike, great name btw ;) , PF with you today>
After 9 months of planning, researching, being out of the country...in a few weeks I get to switch my 2 year old 75 gal marine tank to a 125. they grow up so fast...so after reading, rereading the FAQ's, I now have a interim Livestock storage at my LFS - Somethin's Fishy, in Roanoke, VA to give him some press- please interject in here if seems bad--so I will move the stock, with about half the old water to the store, move the tank in, put Southdown sand in, about 4 inches, and put the remaining old water in and top off with new, ready mixed water. I'll leave some room so when I add the stock back in, I can add the water they come in too right?
<Here's the mighty big if: If, and only if the tanks you have your stock in at the store aren't part of the stores main system. If they are, then quarantine your animals before returning them to the tank. Heck, you might just want to QT them anyway.>
Here's question 2. I don't plan on adding new Live rock at first, since my bioload won't change but I'll have a new DSB - I'm replacing CC. Should I put the old rock in the new tank to seed the sand, or just house it at the LFS?
<I'd say use it to seed the sand bed. You might want to get a mesh bag and put a couple of cupfuls from the top of your CC bed in there, leave it for a few weeks, that'll let the critters in there migrate out to your DSB.>
I've found some conflicting reports in FAQs.-- then I monitor for a cycle before sending everyone to their new home, this cycle should be short, I've read. I think I have a good handle on things, and after some settling, I get to put an order in to one of the big public aquariums for freebie frags from their coral show tank-Woohoo! <Very cool> and it only cost me a month of volunteering...<Cheap at half the price.> and yes, I've read the moving aquariums article several times - thanks for more of your great info that helps us all out when we need it- if you're ever in Roanoke, swing by- anyone else out there near Roanoke?  Thanks,  Mike
<You're welcome Mike, good luck with the move, PF>

Setting Up a New Tank (8-20-03)
Hello Again, First off I wanted to thank everyone for the great ideas so far. I am researching setting up my first saltwater tank and want to make sure I get it right the first time. I have retraced my steps several times and want to run the latest setup past the crew. The only item purchased so far is the 54 gallon corner tank which was a gift from the wife therefore is permanent so please don't ask me to change that.
Setup:
54 Gallon Corner All Glass Tank
4" DSB (sugar sized aragonite...I can't find Southdown near me...)
Aqua C Remora hang On Skimmer
Fluval 304 canister Filter ( planning on only running carbon one week a month)
2 x 65 watt Power Compacts (one 10,000K and one actinic)  for lighting, can add additional 15 watt 10,000K as well
50 lbs. Harbor Aquatic Live Rock
2 Maxi-Jet MP900 power heads set low in the tank for current thru the rock
200 Watt Heater
I plan on FOWLR, and maybe...maybe move up to soft corals six or seven months from now.  I want to see what you think of this setup, what changes you would make, and what the best plan is for startup. I was thinking of getting the water and sand going first, throw in a dead shrimp from the grocery for a week, then add the live rock and wait the cycle out before adding any fish. I am still researching fish, but any ideas or any favorites of yours would be appreciated.  Thanks Again,  Paul
<The lighting should be ok for some low light softies, polyps, mushrooms and the like but  if you want much more you are going to have to upgrade.  Other than that everything looks ok to me.  For start up I would just get the tank running for a few day then add the LR.  The LR will do all the cycling you need so skip the shrimp.  Let us know what you decide on for fish!  Cody>

New Aquarist Help - 8/18/03
How much does a Life reef cost for a 90 gal?
<ahhh... no idea. Depends on where you look online or what price you can negotiate with your local store. Please do give your local aquarium shop a chance. You might also look at some of the vendors on our site and beyond>
What is a Mag 3 upgrade?
<a water pump>
is an AquaC Urchin pro a protein skimmer?
<it is... and a very good one at that. Best of luck. Anthony>

Setting up 55gl tank
I have been given a 55gl long tank and stand.  Also received 5 Ocean Clear Filters-300 series I think (no books), 5 Aquanetics UV Sterilizer - 25il, and 4 haldren?? lights (forgive me if this is misspelled).  My first question is how to use the Ocean Clear filters.
<I would check with the sponsors of our page as some sell this filter and may be able to point you in the right way. Aquanetics has a web site at http://www.aquanetics.com BTW I found both of these by typing the names into google.>
I also have a 65gl salt water tank that has been running for 6 years and have corals and fish.  Have a Sealife Pro 75 wet/dry system with a Protein Skimmer, 2 power heads and a Double Helix UV Sterilizer - 9watts. Can and/or should I switch some of the equipment from my 65 over to the 55?  Would this hurt the 65?  Looking for ideas.  Kind of thinking about setting the 55 up in strictly reef environment and taking the 65 over to mostly fish.  Any comments and or suggestions will be appreciated.
<I would leave the 65 alone if it is stable. Setup the 55 on its own. Hope this helps, Don>

Upgrading from 46 to 90! - 8-13-03
I am getting a reef ready 90 gal aquarium and I would like to know what brand of filter would be best (preferably a sump with a protein skimmer) 
<I would recommend either a Life Reef or My Reef Creations.>
I was also wondering if a purple tang and a yellow tang would get along together 
<I wouldn’t try it.> 
and with  two small clownfish and a few docile gobies (such as a Firefish and Blackray goby) 
<Should be fine.>
I would also like to know if angelfish only bite on coral when hungry or just that there attracted to them and the taste. 
<All depends on what type of angel and sometimes size.  Coral is a natural food for many in the wild.>
I am 14 and I am upgrading to a 90gal from a 46 so I had so question on some bigger and seeing if they would do good with my corals and fish.<Good luck with the bigger tank!  Cody>

UPGRADING TO 125 FROM 75 GAL
Question:  I have a 75 gal saltwater tank FOWLR and upgrading to 125 gal.  Goal is to move fish and live rock with 75 gal to other side of room.  Then place the 125 gal in the previous location of the 75 gal.  Fill tank with 50 gallons of premixed saltwater in the tank and then add the water from the 75 gallon in the tank along with the fish.  Question is: will this be an incredible amount of stress on the fish, especially with the 50 gallons of new saltwater.  Should I add the water slowly (like 20 gallons at a time every other day) to the 125 gallon.  Note: the fish would be in the water with the original 75 gallons of water.  I really don't want to kill the fish with this move.    Please advise.  Thanks, AJ
<I would recommend that you fill the 125 with new water and maybe half the rock. The new tank will certainly go through a cycle process that may be shorter due to the rock, but will still happen. Then move the fish over after the cycle has completed. Hope the helps, Don>

UPGRADING TO 125 FROM 75 GAL - Pt. II
Thanks for responding Don,  I am not sure I can fill the new 125 gal with new water.  My 75 is in the place where I would put the new aquarium.  
<Sorry I missed that>
I would have to take most water and rocks out of the 75 gal.  Then move it to the other side of the room. Put the water back in and half of the live rock.  By doing this first move it will stress the fish unfortunately.  
<Yes, this would not be wise>
Then fill the new aquarium with the new water and cycle.  I don't have a problem waiting for cycle to complete, but I would have to move the fish and rest of live rock from the old to the new aquarium.  Another stressor on the fish.  Is this to much stress on the fish and won't I lose some of the bacteria that is helpful from the old water?
<Yes, this was my mistake as I misread the original>
After some thinking, I could just make a quick switch: move 75 out of the way; place 125 in place; put the 75 gal water w/ 30 gal of new water; and every other day or so put another 10 gal in?  Just trying not to stress these sensitive fish out too much.  
<Yes, I understand your concern>
I will be using the filtration media from the old filter for month and placing some of the old substrate in stocking and place in new aquarium on top of sand.
<The other thing I thought of was to move the fish to QT while the new tank cycled. If you decide the to do the switch you describe (which may be the best given your situation), it would be a good idea to have a good batch of aged, aerated water on hand to help with spikes that will happen.>
Thanks again,  AJ
<Good luck with your move and let me know how it goes, Don>

Transfer From One Tank to Another
Hey Gang, top 'o the day! Anthony, my friend, I've been slowly planning & constructing a new system, I'm now close to setting it up. The project is to transfer the contents of a 70g, to a 75g over a 70g sump, anyway, common sense is telling me to begin by transferring the contents into an empty 55g over a 55g sump, to allow the time required for the DSB in the 75g & sump, to cycle, then add the contents in the 55g's to the new system, I'm assuming there will be a cycle adding a DSB (Southdown) of 7" in the sump & 1.5" in the display.
<no worries... transferring a healthy bed of established live sand on top of a new bed of sand in the new tank will suffer little for it. You can make the move on the same day. Regardless, 2-3 water changes in the week to ten days after any move is prudent. Best of luck! Anthony>

Transfer from One Tank to Another PT2 - 8/13/03
Thanks for the speedy response, Anthony, I guess I didn't mention the fact that the contents to be transferred to the new 75g don't include a DSB, just the soft corals & fish.
<no worries just the same. You are carrying the same load over with the same established bio-filter (in live rock, filters, etc). There is no reason to expect much or any spike from the sand. Just a slow maturation.>
I do have a very small DSB in a 20g sump that I was planning to seed the 7"-8" in the 70g sump & the 1.5" (Pure Caribbean Aragonite) in the 75g display. I thought for sure there would be a cycling period after setting the new system up, I do have the pair of 55g to temporarily house the contents of the existing tank for the cycling time required, the new system has to go where the existing tank is, or I'd just swap 'em!  An update on the "Mash 4077th" emergency surgery you help me with, The green finger softy has grown nearly 8X what it was when we doctored it up, (in Jan.03). Is it normal for such rapid growth in these types of leathers?
<indeed... with good care yes. I have seen Sarcophytons for example that were beach ball sized in just 3-4 years under MH and with good care>
I'll have to start trimming it as it gets larger! Thanks as always, Peace & Incense, Your friend in Denver-Scott
<excellent my friend... best regards! Anthony>

Doing It The Right Way! (Planning A New System w/DSB)
G'day Bob, Scott and the rest of the wondrous wet web wizards of the watery depths! This is Rob here from Down Under.
<Hey there, Rob! Glad to hear from you again! Scott F. with you again tonight!>
I e-mailed you guys a few weeks back looking for advice on my plans for my FIRST marine tank setup. Scott was kind enough to reply and let me know that I was basically on the right track. He then suggested I go back and do MORE RESEARCH!!!!!!! And perhaps revise my plans. I have. I also have many new questions, queries and doubts!
<Oh, man- I sent another fellow hobbyist back to the books! Part of the fun, though! >
So, here goes..... I am planning on adopting the following species: 1 DWARF lionfish (max5"), 2 LARGE tomato clowns and 1 bubble tip anemone as a start, I'll take my time with these introducing the lion first, then the clowns and eventually if all goes well the bubble tip.
<Glad you're "easing" into the anemone...No need to rush>
All are available (reasonably) locally and all are caught with nets by people I know well.
<Outstanding!>
Current plans are for a 150 gal (570litre) tank 48"L X 36"W X 20"H nice and wide, good surface area (see I do read your articles!) I will also be using an under tank sump of 56gal (215litres) I am really hooked on the idea of natural filtration so this tank will get about 200lb's (90kgs) of live rock.
<Terrific! It will be a very stable system!>
Skimming will be by a locally made (Aussie, Aussie, Aussie OY, OY, OY) venturi unit running from the sump and powered by a 650 g/h (2500lph) pump. These units are made by a bloke in Western Australia who started building his own DIY setups years ago. They have a brilliant reputation and are much, much cheaper than the units imported from your neck of the woods.
< Awesome- DO support your "local talent" whenever possible! A good skimmer is such an important investment- well worth it!>
Heating will be from 2 - 300W quality units. Lighting will be by fluoro's,  160W of HO and 80W of Actinic (still some doubts as to whether this is sufficient, especially with the anemone in mind.....Your views?).
<May not be enough...Even though your tank is relatively shallow, you might want to add a couple more tubes...You simply cannot have "too much" light for anemones, in most cases...>
All fluoros are very well reflected and powered by remote, electronic ballasts and will be housed in a custom made (by me!) hood.
<The best kind, IMO!>
Circulation will provided mainly from a closed loop running on the inside top of the tank with various injectors placed at strategic locations and depths. This will be powered by the 1050g/h(4000l/h) return pump from the sump. I will have to run some test's to see if this is sufficient, if not extra powerheads will be employed.
<Sounds nice. If you intend to keep SPS or other high-current loving corals at some later time, you may want to consider a pump or pumps that can push 10-20 tank volumes an hour through the system...Like lighting- you can rarely have too much circulation>
O.K. I hear you thinking, this guy's got it together!
<Yep! Very much so!>
Well that's what I thought too! Until I walked into my LFS (600kms away!).
<I've heard of "walkabouts" before- but 600kms...? You're seriously dedicated! I'll never complain about the 20 minute drives to good LFS in my area!>
You see, I had initially intended to use a wet/dry filter in my sump to back up the live rock and skimmer. However on looking closely at the shops fish and invert display tank (120gal) all they had was lots of rock and a protein skimmer! Nothing else! This was a good looking tank with all inhabitants looking bright, cheerful and full of life. I was stunned and intrigued. On talking to the shop crew (Seth and Kath, they make a good team!) they told me that the secret was all in the substrate. Sure enough there it was, 5-6" of good looking fine coral sand with plenty of activity going on.
<A deep sand bed certainly serves as an excellent nitrate reducing "filter"...a nice thing to have>
Anyway I checked it out on the web and found out all about plenum bed construction, Jaubert's method, anoxic bacteria and 0 nitrate levels. After much research I am planning on this stage of using a deep substrate level (5") in my main tank and constructing a plenum system in the sump. The main reason for not using a plenum in both is that I want to aquascape the main tank to resemble a section of reef I know well from diving and having to minimize the rock's 'footprint' would be difficult. I really need your advise on this! Is the full biological filtration method just a pipe dream and is it beyond a beginner like myself?
<No- it isn't! Embracing natural methods is probably the most simple and effective thing you can do as a beginner, or as an advanced hobbyist! Your idea of using a plenum in the sump is certainly workable. I personally prefer "static" ("plenum-less") deep sand beds, as they seem to work as well as plenum-equipped systems (although there is plenty of debate on this topic among hobbyists). If you are going to go the plenum route, it's absolutely vital that you follow the "standardized" recommendations concerning sand bed composition, depth, plenum height, etc. These configurations were arrived at after enormous amounts of testing by researchers like Jaubert, Goemans, Gamble, etc., and are not just random numbers. Most of the people who claim that plenums don't work are the ones who "modify" the parameters of their plenum. You may want to check out Plenum guru Bob Goeman's http://www. saltcorner.com site for a lot of good information on plenums...>
I am aiming eventually to 'get into' corals so the idea of continuing the biological filtration cycle with the break down of NO3 to NO2 to NO and eventually to pure N is highly desirable. I await your advice with baited breath oh wise and all knowing denizens of the deep! Sorry this is so long winded, got carried away, as usual, if I mention the word "fish tank" one more time I might find myself without a house keeper, bed warmer and long suffering friend! Thanks for your help guys and gals!  Rob
<Ahh Rob- I think that you're doing great! It's so cool that you're doing the "modifications" and "tweaking" to your system before the system is actually set up! The time that you take now to research the various concepts will repay you many times over with a successful tank! I think a well constructed sand bed (with or without plenum), protein skimmer, and sump, fortified with aggressive maintenance procedures (water changes, etc.) will greatly enhance your chances of success. Keep in touch, and best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>  

Getting It Right From The Start!
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Scott F. here today!>
Greetings! First off, great site! I have found your site three weeks ago and was greatly pleased with the abundance of information!
<I'm thrilled that you enjoy it! A lot of good people work very hard on this site, and it's always nice to hear good feedback!>
I am a saltwater newbie and have been researching for the past two months. I have been trying to absorb everything I could about this new found hobby and have learned quite a lot. Sadly though, a great portion of which was realizing that I have spent quite a few on things I never needed in the first place.
<Yep- we'd all be rich if we had a dollar for every time that we bought an unnecessary item for our tanks!>
I write to you with a rather unusual problem. With all the information I have gathered… I am experiencing what you may call an overload.
<No way...can't happen! LOL>
I realize that different sites offer different solutions to different situations. Sometimes, one idea would seem to be the best one. But after reading some more, it would suddenly seem otherwise (e.g. Trickle Filters). I am right now confused at which path is best to take. Reading the many FAQ’s here at WWM.  Let me start by giving you my background. As I said, I am a Saltwater Newbie. I have had experience with my two FW tanks so I am not a total newbie to aquariums. I have had them for a couple of months now. I started researching and going to fish stores a lot recently and just can't get my eyes of SW fishes. FW fishes just cannot compare to the amazing color and beauty of SW fishes so I have since decided to start a SW tank.
<Now the fun starts!>
My initial approach was to ask around our LFS. (Actually, they’re not that “local” since the Fish Store that sells salt water Stock are 4-5 hours away). Anyway, they weren’t too technical about the info. I approached the caretaker of the SW tanks and he gave me a few general ideas. Unsatisfied, I thought of getting a book. I have been looking around for your book the CMA but couldn’t find it anywhere here in the Philippines.
<There are a number of e-tailers out there that carry it, and international delivery is available...Do try to find it- well worth the search!>
The immediate satisfaction I could get was the internet. I was buying stuff at the same time. To date, here is what I have:
1.Custom 140 gal tank made of ½” glass (68”x28”x18”)
2.Custom made stand with metal reinforcements. Primered with four layers of epoxy primer.
3.pH, Nitrite and Nitrate Test Kits. (Soon an Ammonia Kit)
<Do get an ammonia kit ASAP- it's essential when starting a new saltwater system!>
4.Eheim 2217 Canister w/ the ff media (in order)
- one layer ceramic barrel media
-one large foam
-crushed coral
-fine filter mesh
5.Raw materials to build the ff:
- Acrylic sheet for Surface skimmer and Overflow box
- 2 tubs I’ll be connecting together to make a sump
- 2 containers I’ll be making for a Wet/Dry filter
- 4 circular containers, bulkheads and PVC pipes of various sizes to be made into a skimmer.
<Sounds cool>
The tank will be a FOWLR system. I don’t know how much LR I will be placing but I would want more swim space for the fishes. The tank will be placed in my office at the school as a divider. With this, the LR will have to be set up in the middle of the tank so the fishes can be viewed nicely from both sides. This is also the reason why I think I won’t be able to stick to the 1-2 lbs of LR per gallon of water rule because of the limited space.
<I like the idea of more swimming space, myself. However, you can put some of the rock into the sump if desired...>
Mr. Fenner, here are my questions;
1.First – Would my Eheim work ok on its own (without the Trickle System)… knowing now that the addition of LR will greatly reduce the need of a trickle filter?
<I am always a bit hesitant to design a system that relies exclusively on mechanical filtration. I am much more partial to sump-based systems (without the bioballs), as they offer simple and natural biological filtration. Canister filters tend to be subject to "benign neglect" if not diligently maintained (i.e. media cleaned/replaced regularly), and organic matter and detritus can accumulate and degrade water quality>
2.The Eheim is rated for 150+ gallons. 1000 liters/hr I believe. Is this a sufficient turn-over rate? Or should I add another pump to assist it in putting back water to the tank from the sump?
<I'd use a dedicated pump, such as an Iwaki MD55, as a means of moving and returning water to the tank. The Eheim alone is not enough, IMO>
3.If I do away with the trickle filter… how much LR should I have?
<Well, I would try to shoot for at least 1 lb per gallon, if you can...A well-maintained deep sand bed is also a workable solution here>
4. I read somewhere that trickle systems are very effective…. Sometimes too effective…as such… if I go ahead with the trickle system… I plan on installing a DIY skimmer as I read that they can be Nitrate Factories.
<Trickle filters are often "victims of their own success", as they do result in accumulations of nitrate. A skimmer is certainly an important (in my opinion, mandatory) piece of equipment for every saltwater system. Get the best one that you can afford...>
If so, where would be the best space to connect the Skimmer? Before the trickle filter: …or after? I believe the best would be “Before” the trickle filter but that would be a lot trickier to pull through as the piping would be a bit more complex. Also the skimmer cannot handle the whole load of water being siphoned so some would bypass the skimmer…
<I'd still place the skimmer right after some form of gross particulate filtration (ie; "micron socks" or pads- cleaned and changed often), where it will receive a constant flow of "raw" water from the system>
Another question as to its effectiveness.
5. Would 1” of sand be ok or would that be too thin considering the blennies or Gobies' burrowing habits?
<My advice on sand beds is 1/2 inch or less, or 3 inches or more. One inch is too shallow to foster natural denitrification, yet too deep to be fully aerobic...a recipe for possible long-term problems>
6. Since it’s in the office, and a partial water change will have a lot of prep work before it can be done safely… (Splashes, Office hours, etc.) do set-ups with only monthly water changes exist?
<Not in my house! I'm a water-change fanatic, and try to convert everyone I know to the same mode of thinking...I like to use two 5% water changes per week...It just plain works! Monthly is okay, but simply too infrequent to effectively maintain consistent water conditions, IMO>
What Nitrate Reduction Method would you suggest considering my setup? I have read about Plenums, Algal Scrubbers and Coil Denitrators. They all have their Pro’s and Con’s and I’m confused as to which would best suit my set-up.
<I like a deep sand bed (without a plenum, myself) and live rock, supplemented with a very productive protein skimmer and regular water changes, as outlined above>
Some say Plenums aren’t that efficient and considering the substrate thickness, That would mean only <22” of swim head for the fishes…
<Plenums are efficient, if properly designed and built, but problems arise when people try to "freelance" and modify their design. There are valid scientific reasons for their configuration, and the principles of their design must be adhered to>
Algal Scrubbers can leak into the tank and populate there…
<Hmm...?>
while Coil Denitrators are a bit tricky to adjust considering the optimum drip rate should be attained to be effective.
<You hit it on the head>
What would you think would be the best solution for my set-up?
<Well, as mentioned above, I think a DSB, live rock, protein skimming, and water changes will serve you best>
7.Speaking of fishes, my planned list consists of the ff:
a.3-5 Cleaner Shrimps and/or Snails
b.5-7 Blue-Green Chromis
c.2 Percula Clowns
d.2 Gobies (Watchman or Clown) and/or 2 Blennies (Bi-Color)
e.1 Royal Gramma and if possible,
f.1 Mandarin Dragonette or Coral Beauty
<I'd pass on the Mandarin until the infauna in the tank is very well established- like a year or more...>
How does this list sound to you?
<Sounds good- I like the smaller fishes with a larger tank! And, you've chosen some compatible animals...>
Would they get along well? Would adding more be a possibility? Are there any fishes here that I should avoid as a newbie?
<I'd avoid the mandarin, for sure...Many others to consider...Bob's CMA will give you some good guidelines>
8.As the only Fish Store that sells SW Stock is a 4-5 hour drive… I’m a bit worried as to the stress the fish and LR would go through during the trip. What precautionary measures should I take before, during and after transporting them?
<They should not be fed just before the transport, and lots of oxygen should be used...The retailers should know how to do this>
As my first step would be to cycle, how should the LR be shipped? Could I place them in individual plastic bags then place them all together in a Coleman container? I’m afraid that if I do this wrong I might arrive home and find that my Live Rock has turned into Dead Rock.
<Again- I'd rely on the pros...They should know how to properly handle live rock. Usually, the rock is wrapped in damp paper or plastic with little, if any water...>
I am terribly sorry for the amount of questions I have for you. I know that you must handle volumes of queries each day but hope that you find time to answer even just a few of these.
<Not a problem- that's why we're here!>
I sincerely thank you for taking the time to read all through my ramblings and wish you and your staff all the best. Thank you for providing valuable information that is accessible and free. Two things that seem to be hard to get by these days. More power!  Ken Archie Millan
Pangasinan, Philippines
<My pleasure, Archie! I hope that your new adventure is a great success- and a great source of enjoyment! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

A New Setup
Hello Team,
<Hello! Ryan with you today>
I would firstly like to say congratulations and thank you for such a fabulous site. <Thank you!>  There is certainly a wealth of information that can be found. I can also appreciate the time, effort and dedication it takes to keep a site like this current. You guys/gals are truly an inspiration. <It's the reason I do this!  This is the one site where you get MORE than you pay for...>
I have a few questions if I may as after reviewing your site for several days I have been unable to find the specific answers.
<Shoot>
I have been keeping freshwater tanks since "Leave if to Beaver" was everyone's favorite show on television. Last year (Aug)  I finally broke down and made the decision that I would now like to move over to a reef tank resulting in the purchase of a new custom tank.<Great!> The tank is 128g with the dimensions of 34"H X 24"D X 36"L and has a blue tinted mirrored background. I could only go 36" in length due to the built in spot where it now resides in the basement (darn teleosts!) so I settled for an increase in height. It has a trickle filter that is 41g in size 24:H X
15"D X 26L.  Due to the initial cost of the additional equipment required to setup a successful reef tank I opted for a Cichlid tank in the interim and would purchase the additional equipment required once I recovered from the initial cost of the tank. <You're not the only one who's had to work up to a reef!> Well the Cichlids are all grown up now and will be moving out soon, I have recovered from the initial cost of the tank and am now in a position to purchase that additional gear. <Awesome> So before I take my first born back to the bank <Ha!> to acquire the required cash for the purchase I wanted to get your thoughts/recommendations on whether my thinking is correct. <Surely> At the price of this stuff I certainly do not want to have to re-purchase anything anytime soon. <No kidding!  Good equipment will save you money in long run, you won't need to replace it as often.>
I am not 100% certain as of yet as to what type of creatures I ultimately would like to keep although I have seen many interesting things that all require high lighting. I would like the opportunity or have the flexibility to be able to keep whatever spiffy creature or specimen that may come along without having to make major modifications. <Got it.>
I would just as soon have a little more/extra light, a little more/extra flow, a little more/extra skimming than to be short on any of these items. I believe it would be better to be able to scale down as opposed to not be able to scale up. <OK>
I am planning to have a 6-7" DSB using either Agramax Sugar or Agramax Select  with a combination of approximately 200lbs of Tonga/Fiji/Kanai live rock stacked on a pvc frame that I will provide circulation to by drilling a bunch of holes in the framework and connecting a powerhead. <System I use.>
How high can/should I stack the rock? To the surface or as close to? <Close, not to.  Give it at least an inch of wiggle room.> Even with a 6" DSB the tank depth will still be 28" which leads me to my
next question.
Everyone I have asked about lighting because of the 28" depth on the tank has given me a different answer. So I was thinking of purchasing either a PFO or Hamilton fixture containing 2 X 400w 10K MH accompanied with 2 X 96w Super Actinic PC's housed in a 36" canopy. Will this be overkill? <Overkill, yes.  Will your corals send you a thank you card?  Yes.> I need to place some of those little beach umbrellas (like the ones you get in Hawaii and Fiji with your cocktail) on the sand bottom to provide shade? <Ha! No, the live rock will provide sanctuary those who don't enjoy a tan.>  Would 2 X 250w 10k MH with 2 X 96w  work OK as well and just place the higher light creatures closer to the top? <Yes, surely.>
I am planning to remove the bioballs that are currently in the trickle filter due to the potential nitrate problem and basically turn it into a sump which will house a new Aqua C EV180. <Empty trickle filters are great as a place to process water.  Makes water changes, heater adjustments a breeze.> Sufficient or should I go with the EV240? I chose the EV because of the smaller footprint.  <240 would give you more flexibility long term.  180 will be perfect for a reef with a light bio-load.  Truly depends on your plans for the tank.>
I currently have a submersible main pump rated at only 950g not including the 5' of head I have and feel that this pump is lacking considerably. I was thinking of having a bulkhead installed in the sump and getting an external pump instead. <Yes!  Very smart move.> General consensus is that a minimum of 10X flow would be required? Except for the MAG 2400 which is rated at 1355gph with 6' head do you know of any other decent submersible pumps that are rated 1300 or higher? <Not really.  Many of the really large submersibles produce considerable heat.  Do you have plans for a chiller?>  Or would an external pump such as an Ampmaster 2100 rated at 2100gph with a 5' head or an Iwaki MD70RLT that is rated at 1500gph with a 4' head be a better purchase. <Much better> The velocity V4 I don't think will be sufficient as it has a rating of  1100gph at 4' head? The only draw back with the Iwaki pumps are their price! <Dolphins are a little more affordable, and a good pump as well.>
I also have a Vortex XL Diatom filter that I used to polish the water in the Cichlid tank. Can I, or what are the advantages/disadvantages if I were to utilize this filter in the reef tank? <Great to run carbon periodically, as well as remove particles from the water.  There are benefits, but I would never use one day to day.  Keep it on hand in case or emergency.  There was a thread on Reefcentral recently about a young girl that threw sugar into the sump of her father's reef!  I'm sure he would have killed for a diatom filter at that point!>
Again I only want to purchase this stuff once and do not want to upgrade again in the near future. If this means shelling out a little more cash now ...then so be it! I can always take my second born child to the bank
along with my first. <Ha!  Pretty soon it will be you, your kids and you corals in family therapy!>
Any comments/suggestions/recommendations would be greatly appreciated and I apologize for the lengthy message.
<Anytime.  Send us a picture when it's up and running!  Best of luck! Ryan>
Thanks so much in advance and keep up the terrific work with this site!!
Gary

One Tank-One Hundred Possibilities!
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today>
Later this month I will be setting up a 120 gallon reef tank.  Here is my plan-what do you think?
The tank will be a 120 gallon reef ready (4' by 2' by 2') aquarium with a 20 gallon refugium and sump.  My main interest is fish, followed by the weird and the bizarre (lots of which can be found in the hobby).
<People- or fishes? You'll DEFINITELY find both in the hobby! LOL>
That being said, I plan on slowly (one or maybe two a month) adding the following fish to the tank:  a yellow tang, a royal gramma, a orchid Dottyback, Jawfish (either yellow head or blue spotted), two Clownfishes, three fairy wrasses
<Ideally, trio of two females to one male- one species only>
, one mandarin goby, a Firefish, a court jester goby, a shrimp prawn goby, a yellow watchman goby.
<I like the choices- particularly the gobies, with the exception of the "Court Jester Goby", which is alternatively known as "Rainford's Goby", a notoriously tricky fish to keep in most newly established (less than a year or two) systems. They need a very developed sandbed with infauna to forage in...>
I would also like to add a shoal of schooling fish (4-6 individuals).  My research leads me to believe that these fish will be compatible-do you agree?
<I concur, although there might be some initial confrontations between the Dottyback and the gramma...>
As for the school, I like the anthias, but I'm worried about how difficult they would be to keep fed.  (Is Bartlett's Anthias relatively hardy?)
<Any Anthias can be a bit difficult- they feed constantly, and require stable conditions and well oxygenated water. Yes. some are easier than others...Frankly, the people I know who have the best success with Anthias are the ones who have designed their system and population around the unique requirements of these fishes. Personally, this is how I'd do it with these fishes>
Cardinals are another possibility as are blue Chromis.
<Better choices, IMO- particularly the Chromis>
Can you suggest any other commonly available schooling species that would mesh well with the previously listed of species?
<I like the Chromis, as indicated above. They are peaceful, for the most part, and are much less expensive and easier to keep than Anthias (which, by the way- do NOT have to be kept in a school). I am sure that you'll enjoy them as much!>
Now I move onto the bizarre.  I really like nudibranchs, but it seems like the only one that is really hardy is the lettuce seaslug (would two be too many?).
<Well, the type you mention prefer algae, so you need to have sufficient algae growth to support one. I'd limit it to one. Nudibranchs are neat, but I honestly believe that the majority, if not all- are just not good aquarium specimens for long-term maintenance...>
I would also like to get a globe urchin (or two) and a black spiny urchin (or two).  (What is the biological function of the orange "eye"?).
<If I'm not mistaken, the "eye" to which you refer to is usually the anus in most species! Here's- uh- lookin' at you, kid...LOL>
I would also like to keep several giant clams (maxima or maybe squamosa or Hippopus).
<Make sure that you can supply them with the proper lighting intensity, placement, and even food, if the species that you're considering requires it>
I also plan on getting some feather dusters (if none show up in my rock).
<Interesting animals that do well with some dedicated care>
Shrimp are also very cool-I am thinking about peppermint shrimp (a few), scarlet cleaner shrimp (a few) and a pair of coral banded shrimp (will this attack other shrimp?)  
<Coral Banded Shrimp can and will attack other shrimp if they feel like it! Some ignore other shrimp of similar size, while others feel in necessary to dissect any other shrimp in "their" tank! Be careful if you want one of these guys...>
It would be fun to keep an porcelain crab or some sexy shrimp, however, I am worried that clownfish might fight it off-if the clownfish chose a host, would it be safe to place a second host for the crab/shrimp out of the line of sight of the first host?
<They can co-exist together in one anemone. However, please make sure that you're up to the challenge (ie; lighting, environmental stability, etc. before considering an anemone. The clownfish don't need one to be happy, and many tank-raised clowns have never even been around one! Also, purists might object to the keeping of cnidarians (anemones) and clams in the same system...Something to think about. Please don't feel "obligated" to keep an anemone>
It would be relatively simple to have two hosts, each out of the line of sight of each other, see which host the clownfish chose and then place the shrimp or crab on the second host.  I the clown fish chose one host, is it likely they would take up residence at the second host later on?
<Anything is possible. To clarify and augment my anemone position: One is a challenge, two is a dice role. If you must keep an anemone, just keep one, at least for some time...>
I would also like to get a clean up crew to help with tank maintenance.  According to what I've seen, this would consist of  red-legged and blue-legged hermits (? gallons per crab) and snails (3-5 gallons per snail).  There are of course, many kinds of snails (Astraea, turbo, Trochus, bumblebee)-do you recommend ratio of one type to another, or are all species pretty much interchangeable in what they eat?
<I would stick to Trochus, Strombus, and Turbos. I also find that the crabs will be of little value as "algae-eaters", as they will be easily out-competed by your tang for the filamentous algae that they favor. Also, the "Bumblebee Snails" are cool to look at, but they are essentially of little impact as a scavenger, IMO. They do consume some detritus materials, but not to the extent that I'd go out of my way to acquire them as a "cleaner"...Get 'em becuase they are attractive!>
Of course, what reef tank would be complete without some seastars/starfishes (10 gallons per star).  I plan on getting several  Linckia and Fromia.
<I'd limit it to one or two. Get the hang of these animals first before attempting to stock greater numbers of them...>
I would also like to get some brittle/serpent stars, however, I have read that Ophiarachna and Ophiomastix have been known to eat fishes-is there any amateur-proof method of telling these two species apart from fish safe species, or is there any way of positively identifying fish safe species (it seems all the pictures of striped sea stars that I've seen in books identify safe species-is that true and are there other easy methods to tell the "good" from the "bad"?)
<Ahh- glad you asked! There is some great information on these animals in Bob and Anthony's new book, "Reef Invertebrates". Check it out!>
Here is a good time to mention my planned lighting-440 watts of VHO powered by an icecap 660 ballast
<Okay...Will probably be adequate for anemones or clams if placed high up on the rockwork. In the long run, however, you might be better investing in a metal halide system- perhaps pendants. Yep- MH is more expensive, but offers more flexibility, in terms of the kinds of photosynthetic animals you can keep. And, of course, if the "reef bug" hits, you won't have to invest in new lighting down the line...Consider that!>
Lastly, I think the tank would look much nicer with a few hardy coral species.  My tank will have 120 lbs of live rock that I am buying from a friend (augmented by a PVC pipe framework).  I will divide the live rock into two opposing triangles with a channel running between them (as shown on pg 115 of Marine Aquarist, except that the channel will run front left to back right to account for living-room-geometry).
<A nice arrangement>
On the left triangle, I plan on placing some pulsing xenia, zoanthids and the clams.  On the other triangle and on the sand, I plan on arranging several of the following corals (depending on the actual geometry of my aquascaping and retailer availability specimens):  euphyllia, Catalaphyllia, Fungia, Favia, Trachyphyllia, Goniopora (how can I tell the hardy species from the non-hardy varieties?), brain coral, carnation coral and/or candy cane coral.  Would all of these "play well" together if they were given 6" from each other and the aforementioned left triangle (more in the case of Catalaphyllia?).
<Well, I think that there would be a lot of problems in the long-un with this approach. You've mentioned anemones, clams, LPS corals, non-photosynthetic corals, etc. in one setup. Really a recipe for long-term (or even short-term) trouble. Too many different animals in one tank that are never found with each other. You need to make some choices as to what direction you're gonna take here! I don't want to dampen your wonderful enthusiasm, but you have to think long-term here. You did some good research, but I think that you need to specialize. You've essentially mentioned what could (and should be) populations for several different tanks: A clam tank, a Clownfish/Anemone biotope, an LPS "lagoon", a non-photosynthetic coral biotope, a Seagrass/Catalaphyllia system, a Goniopora Reef Crest system, an invert reef biotope, Anthias tank, etc., etc.! You now know why we "fish nerds" keep more than one tank! Seriously, you need to focus on one area, and try to develop a system that will meet the needs of the animals you intend to work with. This is a very fun process. BTW, I'm not saying that you have to keep only such-and--such an animal with one type of system- but you do need to narrow the focus (and stocking list) a bit! Again, review an modify your equipment selection to suit your animal's needs.>
In conclusion (thanks for your patience), I plan on having the following equipment.  The reef ready pluming will run to a Rubbermaid container sump.  This sump will contain the protein skimmer (trying to decide between an Aqua C EV 120 or 180 or Precision Marine Bullet 1).
<My vote is for an Aqua C EV 240...go BIG!>
Would it be better to have a skimmer rated for 150 gallons or should I go with a skimmer with an even larger capacity?
<Larger!>
The sump will also contain a Fluval 404 (for mechanical, chemical filtration).  The heaters will reside in the sump.  A pump (what is your favorite brand for quiet/reliability?)
<I like Iwaki for dependability, Dolphin for quiet operation>
will return the water to the tank.  
I also plan on having a 20 gallon refugium.  My thought is to use a t-valve to place the refugium in parallel with the sump.  The output for the refugium will go back to the sump, just before the return pump.  I plan on filling the sump with live sand (# of inches?) and live rock.  Do I need to add anything else?
<Lots of different configurations to use with refugia- design and build one that works best for you. Check out DIY sites, like OzReef, and get a copy of Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation" for lots of cool ideas on 'fuges!>
As for substrate, I plan on using on using two inches of aragonitic sand (when I say sand, I don't mean beach size sand, but millimeter size pebbles, or is that in incorrect use of the term sand?).  I will have two areas of 4-6 inches in depth for the Jawfish.
<I'd highly recommend a 4-6 inch bed throughout the tank, with some small pebbles mixed in for the Jawfishes>
I plan on using T joints and elbow joints to direct the return water flow into several sets of opposing water streams to create turbulence (goal of 1200 gallons per hour), with more turbulence on the right side than on the left.
<Turbulence is good for many animals...>
Thank you very much for taking your time to help.  Myself and my future fish friends are very grateful. Nate Terry
<My pleasure, Nate! You've done some great research, and have lots of cool and ambitious plans! Just narrow down your focus a bit, and you'll create a tank (or 5 or  tanks!) that your animals will love, and that you can be proud of! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New setup
>Hi WWM Team.
>>Hello, questioner.  Marina here.
>After many months of research (especially countless hours of reading your great website and the CMA book!), I have decided to upgrade from my 29 gal Eclipse to a 90 gallon with sump system.  I was hoping you would give me your opinion on my proposed setup:
>>Righty-oh!
>1.  90 gallon pre drilled (with All-Glass bulkhead kit)
>2.  AquaC p/s (EV-120) with Rio 2100
>>Nix the Rio!  Bad reputation well-earned, for burning up at the most inopportune times.
>3.  15 gallon sump with 3 dividers (bought this from my neighbor for next to nothing).  chamber 1: p/s; chamber 2: refugium with place to put light; chamber 3: heater and pump return (water flows at the bottom and top of the divider between the 2nd and 3rd chambers; along with filter material and a plastic grid screen).  What does this screen do anyway?  It can't be a filter because the holes are pretty big.  Maybe it just supports the filter
material???
>>Or acts as a flow diffuser, maybe?
>4.  MagDrive return pump (600 gph)
>>Like those pumps.
>5.  Two 200w heaters
>>Great.
>6.  100 lbs LR
>7.  ? sand (1 inch?, 4+inches? I've seen both suggested)
>>If you're going to make use of the natural nitrate reduction capabilities of a deep sand bed, then make it 4"+.  Does not HAVE to be sugar fine, have seen great DSB's using 1-2mm grains, but at 6"+
>8.  Power drive for circulation (I'm thinking I need more to help with the deep parts of the tank)
>>You might be right, and it wouldn't hurt.
>Stock: 1.  yellow tang (from current tank); 2.  2 Amphiprion ocellaris (from current tank) - I'm a bit worried about these 2 guys because of what I would like to add later (see # 6,7 and 8)
3.  2 camel shrimp (from current); 4.  1 chocolate chip star (from current); 5.  1 green brittle star (from current); 6.  dwarf lionfish (will be new to 90 gallon)
>>He will eat that shrimp, and could go after the clowns depending on what he thinks he can swallow.
>7.  snowflake eel (new) - maybe
>>Not if you want to keep any shrimps or small fishes.
>8.  1 Rhinecanthus assasi or 1 Rhinecanthus aculeatus or 1 Rhinecanthus verrucosus?
>>You will definitely be losing that shrimp and any others you might try to put in that system.  The clowns could become little snacks as well.  Also, the trigger has the potential to make SHORT work of the lion, even a volitans.  Consider a more peaceful trigger, or more aggressive tankmates, though at 90 gallons you've pretty much hit your limit.
>9.  Any suggestions that you feel would be a good match with the above.
>>Nix the clowns and the shrimp, go with something like Centropyge (Flame would be nice), or pseudochromis, or hawkfish. Nix the eel and go with a Rabbitfish--activity and not likely to be nailed by the trigger.  
>Still learning about proper stocking (amount and compatibility) so please be blunt with me!!!  What I do know is to add very slowly.  Thanks for your opinion.  Your website had a direct impact on me building the confidence to upgrade to a bigger system!  Mark
>>I think you've hit your limit with fish, and you need to decide which animals are the "must haves".  Once you make that decision, you can move on from there.  Best of luck, and have fun!  Marina

Point-Counterpoint...
Thanks for your time on this.
<Our pleasure- we love this stuff! Scott F. here today>
I have been doing a lot of research on marine aquariums (books and internet searches) and what I am finding is that there are a number of diametrically opposed views about the aquarium.
<Different views? On marine aquarium keeping? Really? LOL>
I have read enough articles on WetWebMedia to know what you believe and I would like your opinions on some of these differing thoughts.
<Sure- I'd be happy to!>
1) It is a universally accepted principle that aggressive protein skimming is a must (1 cup a day) for nutrient and allelopathy export.  In addition, to successfully grow corals, micro-organisms such as zooplankton, phytoplankton, etc., (whether grown in a refugium, a reactor and/or green water additives) is also a must.  However, protein skimming removes these micro-organisms
from the system and there some thought that protein skimming is as harmful as helpful.  The no-protein skimmer belief rests upon
refugium/Caulerpa/seagrass and/or clams as a more natural mechanism.  Plus, there are less impellors killing the organisms (including powerheads).
<Well, I am of the opinion that a well-tuned protein skimmer is absolutely essential for long term success in closed marine systems. I have heard from a number of people who yanked their skimmers-some have been successful for a while- many have gone back to skimmers. I like to think of the long-term with reef tank maintenance. Skimmers remove many noxious compounds and dissolved organics before they have a chance to degrade water quality. I have yet to see a very successful reef system that has been maintained for years without skimming. I do not consider  one or two years a success...The bottom line on skimmer use, in my opinion, is that if you are going to omit skimming, then you need to compensate somewhere- either with a much lower bioload, very aggressive water change schedule, alternative "filtration" techniques (like Steve Tyree's Sponge/Sea Squirt Cryptic Zone concept, etc.). It is a trade off, and one that I do not feel is worth it. As far as the impellers in pumps destroying valuable plankton is concerned- I have heard a lot of thoughts on this, and, quite frankly, I feel that the threat-although legitimate, is highly overstated. Most reef systems simply don't grow and support large enough populations of plankton for this to be a legitimate concern, IMO. Even with productive refugia and other supplemental systems, I just don't think that the impact is there>
2) To remove allelopathic compounds from the system, weekly carbon changes are suggested.  However carbon also leaches vital trace elements out of the system.  Once again, harmful and helpful.
<I am a firm believer in the continuous use of small amounts (like 2-4 ounces per 100 gallons of tank capacity) of high quality activated carbon. Good grades of carbon, such as those offered by Seachem (my personal favorite), Two Little Fishies, or ESV do not leach phosphates into the system. Yes, carbon can remove small quantities of trace elements from the system. However, if you are following one of my other favorite practices in marine husbandry, frequent small water changes- you will be replacing trace elements on a regular basis. In fact, you will probably not experience a deficiency in trace elements if you practice these water changes>
3) Another universally accepted principle is weekly water changes.  When you have a 55 gallon tank, a 10% water swap is no big deal.  When you have a 125 with a 30 gallon refugium and 10 gallon sump, it is a much greater effort, requiring a large garbage can sitting in the living room overnight to allow
the salt to fully aerate and mix before doing the swap.  Plus the swap tends to be somewhat stressful on the fish.  I am planning on buying a 300 gallon at the end of the year and turning the 125 into a large DSB/Live Rock sump. A 10% water swap on 425 gallons will be a huge effort!
<As a fanatic about regular small water changes, I can tell you that the process is simply not that difficult. One of my systems has about 200 gallons total capacity. I change 5% of the water twice a week. This amounts to 2 10 gallon water changes, which I perform on Wednesday morning before work, and on Sunday mornings (unless the surf is good- in which case it's usually Sunday afternoon!). I will generally mix up the saltwater in a Rubbermaid container about 24-48 hours before, and then perform the change. I also perform minor maintenance tasks, such as a little extra algae scraping (if needed), coral pruning, etc. on Wednesday. This will take about 20-30 minutes to perform. On Sunday, I take a little more leisurely pace, and will clean the skimmer, replace carbon or Polyfilters if needed, change micron socks, or any other little things that have to be done. Maybe it takes about 45 minutes to an hour of pleasant labor. I have always done the additions of new water "manually", by pouring it into the tank from a pitcher. If I really wanted to do it quicker, I'd hook up a Maxijet 1200 powerhead to some 5/8 ID tubing, and "pump in" the replacement saltwater...it's a lot quicker. Frequent small water changes need not be a chore. Rather, look at them as an opportunity to regularly assess the situation in your tank. Anyone who maintains their own garden can relate to the labor involved. It is part of the "price of admission", IMO, and is simply not that difficult. And, when you see the difference in your animals, you'll realize that it's all worth it!>
Lastly, I have and read about many a aquarist who has been very successful for years with minimal swaps, minimal effort by maintaining proper trace elements/calcium/alkalinity.
<I have to quote Anthony on this: "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes!". It's just not something that you'd want to do. We are talking about living creatures here- which require us to provide the highest level of care. Closed systems are just that- closed, and unlike the ocean, do not afford the animals a constant influx of clean water. To those hobbyists who think that water changes are not required, I respond, "You wouldn't let your dog live in the same room for 5 years without cleaning out the waste, would you? Don't do it with your fish!">
4) Bio-wheels and Bio-balls are sold in virtually all LFS and internet dealers.  They add a tremendous amount of stability to the system but also contribute nitrates because there is no anaerobic area for denitrification. Once again, stability vs. water quality, harmful and helpful.
<These media are, in essence- "victims of their own success": They are so good at removing nitrites and ammonia, that they cannot provide a bacterial population to keep up with accumulating nitrate. Yep- it is a tradeoff. Frankly- I like to keep things simple, and use a more natural approach: Let the live rock and sand do your filtering, along with use of macroalgae in refugia, and protein skimming, water changes, and regular use of carbon and/or PolyFilter media.>
5) Allelopathy is another subject, not discussed at LFS trying to make a sale.  Some people claim that pictures of beautiful coral displays that are all over the internet will be very different a year from now because of allelopathy and others claim success for years in spite of pictures showing many corals side by side, touching each other.  Another subject in dispute. I have purchased very aggressive corals (not knowing better at the time).  I
have multiple leathers, Ricordea mushrooms, 5" genitor, frogspawn, colt and bubble corals.  Is this a toxic soup, a ticking time bomb, or as others claim, no big deal.
<Well, I would not call it a ticking time bomb, but it is not an ideal situation. This is an aggregation of animals that are rarely, if ever found in close proximity to each other on natural reefs, so there will be a certain amount of allelopathy. However, these animals can be maintained together in a certain "stand off" with use of aggressive nutrient export mechanisms (the aforementioned skimming, water changes, and use of chemical filtration media). It's much more ideal to develop a stocking plan that utilizes animals that live together in nature. However, as we often state, this is a closed system that we're talking about. It can be done-and done with some possible success, but it is not ideal. I have seen many successful "garden" reef systems over the years, so I can't say that it's not possible to do this. just not recommended!>
As I plan for a big expansion of my system, these are the thoughts that come to mind.  Natural (refugium/Caulerpa/seagrass and/or clams) vs. mechanical (protein skimming).  I currently have both.  Is chemical filtration needed?
<I believe that a "natural" approach, with a few technical props (skimming and chemical media) is the best approach for most systems>
Are water swaps absolutely mandatory, which would dampen my enthusiasm for a larger tank.  Would removing some of the aggressive corals reduce the allelopathy problems or would the bigger tank mitigate them?
<Yes, removing some of the aggressive corals could help, as would reducing the proximity between corals. However, it is still important to change water. I would have to say that it's mandatory! Please understand that it just is not that daunting a task...Small amounts often is not that difficult!>
Long email.  Apologies.  Thanks for the time.
<My pleasure! These were some excellent, thought-provoking questions that have stimulated many a late-night fish nerd conversation at a MACNA conference! I hope that you will be in this year's MACNA in Louisville so that we can discuss these things in more detail! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Old Tank- New Hobby!
Hello all,
<Hi there! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
First let me say that I am very pleased to have found your site.  What a great help it is to have all this information (tons and tons.. that's for sure).
<Awesome! We have some great people here who love what they do!>
I was given a 180gal. glass rectangular tank by my Father.  It was a custom setup.  There are 6 x 1" holes drilled in the bottom.  Five along the back and one centered up forward.  There are also 4 x 1" holes drilled in back glass along the top.  It has been empty for around 15 years but is extremely sturdy.  
Silicone appears to be in good condition (as if I would know).
<You may want to do an outdoor "wet test" just to be on the safe side...>
Some equipment it came with include a diatom filter (not sure if working but hums when plugged in),
<I could make a lot of jokes about that- but I'll hold off for now! LOL>
two 200 watt heaters (new in box), two cartridge filters without
cartridges (Ocean Clear Filters), two pumps (only one hums when plugged in but sure if pumps water), and that's about it.  I was also given by a friend (quite generously I might add) two canister filters brand new in box.
<Nice friend!>
A Fluval 404 and a Filstar XP-3.  I plan on getting a protein skimmer as this seems to always be recommended.
<Absolutely essential, IMO>
The hood has six Fluorescent light fixtures about 3' long and
ballasts that say are for 40 watt lamps (not sure if these work yet).  It also has two fans mounted at both ends.
I have done some researching on your site for the last two weeks (my girlfriend keeps reminding me) and have learned a lot.  I am a bit overwhelmed and may need a little push in the right direction though.
<No problem...We love "pushing!>
I would like a FOWLR type setup and possible upgrade as skills (and $$$) increase.  I understand the basics like nitrogen cycle and completing the cycle before adding fish, the differences between mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration, and maybe a little about lighting. Right now I have around $500 or so to go with. My questions are as follows;
1. Can I use these canister filters or should I go with sump type?  If so can they be combined?
<The canister filters can be used, but I am a big fan of more "natural" techniques, relying more on live rock and sand to do the bulk of the "filtration" in the system, and a sump setup to serve as the "processing center" for your water. I am a HUGE fan of protein skimming, though. If it were me, I'd sell all of the canisters and put the money towards an excellent protein skimmer, like an Aqua C, Euroreef, or an ETS. A skimmer would be the main "mechanical filtration" in your system, so don't skimp on it.>
2. What's with all these holes in the tank? If they are not needed what is the best way to seal them?  I'm thinking thru-hull fittings like they use on boats (plastic type not metal. of course).
<Depending on the size of the holes, you may be able to find bulkhead fittings to do the job. The holes were probably for intakes or returns back in the day...I visualize this full on 1980's setup with bleached coral, a dolomite substrate, and lots of plastic plants. There were probably 3 canister-type filters on the tank, each one with an intake/output...That's my guess...The tank probably held 4 lionfish, a big old green bird wrasse, and a Koran Angel, with a few striped damsels thrown in for good measure! Ah...the 80's- a great time for music- but somewhat scary when we look back at what was state of the art back then in filtration!>
3. What size/type protein skimmer should I use and do they explain in the instructions on how best to hook them up to various kinds of tanks?
<Well, get one that is slightly oversized for your tank (see the aforementioned manufacturer's websites for specs and sizing info.), and you will probably opt for a sump-mounted unit, if you're like most people>
4. With the given amount of light fixtures can I go with regular bulbs for now, can they handle special bulbs (providing they work) or should I upgrade?
<All depends on your long-term plans. Regular output fluorescents are fine for a FOWLR tank, but if the urge strikes to keep photosynthetic inverts and corals, you'll have to upgrade to VHO's, power compacts, or metal halides- or a combination...If it were me- having the gift of 20/20 hindsight a million times over- I'd bite the bullet and start with halides from the start. Yes- more expensive, but ultimately affording more flexibility in terms of animals that you can keep...See what a good job I've done spending YOUR money? You have a $500 budget and I've got you in for $2,000! Seriously, though- you can save money purchasing good quality used equipment, or building a sump yourself, etc.>
I thank you for any and all help you can provide.  I am really excited about my new hobby and am diving in head first.
<Make sure the water is deep enough before you jump! LOL>
I want to try and prevent as many of the common first-timer mistakes as possible.
<I'm sure that you will avoid them! In all seriousness- keep things simple; don't go crazy with all of the technical props and gadgets out there. A well thought-out plumbing scheme with a suitable sump, water pump, protein skimmer, and some decent lighting, and you'll be on your way! Don't worry- the hobby will offer you plenty of opportunity to part you from your money as you go!>
Your site will be the biggest help this novice can get.
Sincerely, Eric
<Our pleasure, Eric. I'm stoked for you! Just keep reading the WWM site, and some of the other DIY sites, like ozreef.com, and you'll get plenty of ideas to get that system up-and-running in style! Share your experiences with others, and don't hesitate to ask questions! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

New Tank Won't Start Cycling 07/23/03 
Dear Crew
<Hi Dave, PF with you tonight>
I am still relatively new to this hobby (6 months) and have been very successful with my first FO tank (20 gallons) because of your site and this is the first time I have had to write in (which is a good thing). I have now upgraded to a 90 gallon system with sump and overflow system.  The tank has been set up with salt water for 5 weeks and I added 60 something pounds (32kg) of cured live rock 4 weeks ago. I also added with the live rock some bacterial starter along with a 10 litres of water and a cup of substrate from my 20 gallon. After the first 2 weeks that my rock was in I tested every 2 days and the ammonia stayed at .25, nitrite 0 and nitrate 5 never seeing a rise in Nitrite. Temp 26 degrees Celsius, ph 8.1 and sg 1.024, skimmer running. So I added my two clowns from my 20 gallon tank to see if that would spike the ammonia (planned to remove once ammonia started rising) and still two weeks later the ammonia is flatlining at .5, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate rose to 10. I have removed the clowns and am stumped as to what to do to get the cycling process started. pH is still 8.1, temp 26, and sg 1.024.  Thanks, Dave
<Well Dave, start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm there's a lot there to learn about. Instead of using your fish, you can use pieces of raw shrimp to pump up the ammonia levels. A lot of it also is a matter of time. Also try adding a little more substrate from your other tank, you could use the water from your 20 when you do water changes on the new tank. Good luck, PF>

In The Beginning...
Hi Bob,
<Scott F. in for Bob today>
I haven't even started yet and am so confused as the best way to
go.
<Confused? About marine fish keeping? How- that's impossible...! LOL...Scott F. here- hopefully cutting through some of the confusion for you>
I have read just about everything on your web site and many others. In my personal opinion I think your site is the most informative!
<Thanks for the "props"! We have some talented and special people doing their best to help fellow hobbyists every day!>
Here are some of the things I know I want:
FOWLR
LR- Fiji mostly
DSB with sugar fine sand 3"-4" deep
Starfish, crabs, shrimp etc ( I will learn about which ones later)
Fish- whatever is compatible (don't have my heart set on any)
From here on everything gets really confusing.
What I currently have is:
80g L-48"x W-18"x H-20" (not pre-drilled)
Fluval 402 canister filter (willing to not use if best)
2 reg. light fixtures, came with tank.
<You may want to upgrade them to Power Compacts, VHO, or even metal halide pendants for long-term flexibility...Of course, this depends on your goals. If photosynthetic inverts and coral are in your future, then I'd bite the bullet and invest in halides...>
I've read that I should have appox. 1 lb. LR for every gal. Does
this include the base rock?
<Yep...Prevailing wisdom seems to indicate 1-2lbs per gallon for most uses>
I plan on cycling with LR- no animals.
<Good...That's the best way, IMO>
(I'm just oozing with patience.)
<And you'll be amply rewarded, believe me!>
What is the best and most practical way to get started. I'm not made of money so I don't want to buy the wrong things.  Since I have decided that your site is the one I will be using for my info I would appreciate a push in the right direction.  I've been reading and learning for 6 weeks and I want to get started!
Thanks, Connie
<Wow- I'm stoked for you, Connie! Hopefully, I can get you started in the right direction. First, if it were me, I'd check out a few local fish stores to see if you can have the tank drilled and fitted with an internal overflow. Water would drain through the overflow into a "sump". You could use a small tank (like a 20 gallon show) for a sump. The sump, of course, would be placed underneath the tank, and would serve as the "processing center" for your system's water. In the sump, you could position a good internal protein skimmer (like the Aqua C Urchin Pro...Don't skimp on a skimmer- it's one of the most important items you can buy), some bags of chemical filtration media, such activated carbon, and Poly Filter pads. You could make a small portion of eggcrate or acrylic and have a section of the sump dedicated to holding the chemical media mentioned above. You can also place your heater(s) in the sump. You'd return water to your tank via an internal pump, like a Mag Drive, and have the return split into two, so that you can direct water from opposite ends of the tank for maximum circulation. Sump systems, IMO, offer the most flexibility for almost any marine tank situation. They are simple, relatively inexpensive, and accomodate the things that need to be used in FOWLR and reef systems (like protein skimmers!).  You can read a ton about them on the WWM site under "setups", and  you can talk to your LFS about commercially-made sumps if you are not a DIYer. The DIY site OzReef has tons of neat ideas if you're up to building one yourself...Keep doing what you're doing...Take it slow, do it right, and have fun! Hope I didn't add to the confusion...LOL Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Taking The Plunge! (Starting A New SW System>
Hello and thanks for your time.
<That's why we're here! Scott F. at your service!>
I was hoping you could give me some advise on a new salt water setup. I've kept fresh water fish for a number of years and
have decided to take the plunge over to marine. :-)
I am starting with a 90 Gallon tank with a hang on overflow box.
This is what I'm planning right now, maybe you can tell me where I am going wrong or a better way to start.
<Well, a minor suggestion right off the bat...If by "overflow box" you mean an over-the-side siphon to a sump, I'd reconsider. The potential for disaster or failure is a constant problem with these designs, IMO. A much better idea would be a drilled internal overflow...>
Start with a 5" - 6" sand bed seeded with some live sand and live rock, and possibly a kit to get a wide variety of critters. Any suggestions on good places to get kits or live sand from?
<Well, lots of good places. It's entirely possible to use "inert" sand, such as one of the CaribSea products (like "Aragamax Sugar-Sized Oolithic Aragonite") or the famous "Southdown Play Sand", and seed them with a starter culture of live sand from a healthy system. Only a small amount of live product is needed. My favorite source is Indo-Pacific Sea Farms in Kailua-Kona (www.IPSF.com). You can order cool starter cultures of live sand and other creatures to get the system up and running>
Any suggestions on amount of live sand to dry sand? and How much live rock?
<Ahh- as above on the sand thing. As far as rock, conventional wisdom suggests 1-2 pounds per gallon, but the "rules" are certainly "bendable" based upon your animal's requirements, your budget, and your aesthetic questions. I've had some interesting exchanges with other hobbyists that are examining and embracing some of the "Japanese" styles of reefkeeping and aquascaping, many of which utilize more open space and less rock...Interesting stuff>
Fill the tank with salt water.   1.022 - 1.026 SG?
<Yep. I like 1.025, but 1.026 is okay, too>
I want to have a 20 Gallon sump for this under the tank that the overflow will run to.  In the sump I'd like to keep the protein skimmer and heater, and Fluval 404 mechanical filter.  Shouldn't need   biological media in the  filter with the sand bed?
<Good plan. I'd save the money on the mechanical filter and get the best protein skimmer that you can afford. And, no- I would not use the plastic bio media in this type of system. I would, however, use activated carbon and Polyfilter pads somewhere the system at all times>   
Return pump with 2 powerheads to keep the water moving pretty good.  Having them meet in the middle should provide some nice random currents?
<Sure...Chaotic current is very important. Better yet would be to employ a rotating return, like the Sea Swirl units, or even a manifold running the entire perimeter of the tank, with elbows directed downwards for maximum flow into the tank...Or, external pumps, like Geminis or Tunzes. Lots of possibilities!>
Cycle the tank like this for 6 weeks checking the water until the cycle is finished... Do I need to feed the "live sand" anything? I`ve seen  maybe a few raw shrimp while it is cycling?
<No need to "feed" the sand, IMO. However, a raw shrimp from the start will certainly "kick start" things a bit>
After the tank is cycled add some fish.  What are your suggestions to start with?   I've read that puffer fish are good to start in newly cycled tanks? or Tangs?
<Wow- lots of choices here. I'd avoid tangs and puffers at this point. You could look into many other interesting and hardy fishes, such as gobies, blennies, grammas, captive-bred clownfish, maybe some damsels (they get a bit feisty, though). Plan your population based both upon your ability to provide for the fishes' long-term well-being, and your interests. I'd recommend a thorough search in the vast WWM resources for some ideas, and perhaps purchase a copy of "The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael Paletta, and Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist"...Both should provide plenty of information to get you started>
Your opinions? How many fish in this tank?
<Well- that depends on their ultimate size and space requirements, among other factors. I like small fishes in a lightly stocked tank.>
Do I need to avoid Gobies and fish that dig in the sand since I have the deep sand bed, to keep them from eating all the good critters in there?
<I'd avoid the so-called "sand-sifting" gobies. There are many small gobies and blennies that don't dig. You certainly don't want to decimate all of the infauna that you're working so hard to cultivate there>
Do I need to stir the sand up every once in a while? I`ve seen different opinions on this matter.
<Personally, the most "stirring" that I will do is an occasional light stir of the top 1/2" or so, just to keep it from clumping. I try to disturb the DSB as little as possible>
Anything you can add or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I want to do this right the first time.
<Admirable intentions! I know that you will, with a little forethought and careful planning. Take it slow, develop a good plan BEFORE you start buying stuff. Make sure that you purchase quality components that have a good track record, and that make sense for your system/goals. Most important- have fun! That's what it's all about!>
Thanks a bunch. Bill
<My pleasure, Bill! Good luck- and write us any time! Regards, Scott F>

Taking The Plunge (Cont'd)
HI, I have a few more questions for you if you would be kind enough to answer them for me.
<Sure! Scott F. here for you today!>
I got my 90 gallon tank this weekend, I am going to get it drilled this week. The local glass shop will do it for $10 a hole!
<Such a deal!>
Do you have any good ideas on what to make the corner overflow out of? I've searched and everything I find is for external overflows.
I thought maybe a large PVC pipe I could slice in half and adhere it to the tank sides, cut notches in the top for the water to flow through. But I don't know how well it will stick to the glass.
<You can order custom-made prefilter boxes (internal) from place called wetdryfilter.com. The owner, a nice guy named Christian, will fabricate them to any size that you want, and he does great work at reasonable prices. Check them out...>
I can't tell what kind of protein skimmer it came with cause the label is gone, but it has a submersible cap-1800 pump on it.
It's about 3 ft tall, not hang on.
<Hmm...you'll have to do some research and look through catalogs to see pics of a unit similar to yours>
Do I turn the skimmer on as soon as I get the water and sand in it? Or do I wait for the tank to cycle first?
<Lots of opinions on this. I tend to run the skimmer from day one, myself. Others advocate waiting until cycling completes...>
Will a Rio 2500 be enough water turnover or do I need to add a 2nd pump?
<Well, you can rarely have "too much" flow in most tanks...Can't hurt to have another, IMO!>
The previous owner also gave me about 50 pounds of rock that came out of the tank, that has been down for about 3 months. They kept the rock in tubs with water in them though, so are they still
live? Or is all the good stuff gone?
<Hard to say...The beneficial bacteria may still be present, but most of the other fauna is probably present in very, very limited quantities...>
How many hours a day would you recommend the lighting to be on? It is high powered fluorescent.  I'll have mostly fish for now once it is cycled.
<Your call on the photoperiod. In a FO tank, consistency is more important that any given time, IMO>
Also will I need any mechanical filtration with the live sand bed?
<If you are not running huge bioload of messy eaters, fed often, you can probably get by without supplemental filtration>
Carbon?
<I run carbon on a full-time basis in all of my systems with great results!>
Can I just put Carbon packets in my sump?
<Sure, as long as they are in an area that gets good flow>
I have a Fluval 404 for my piranha that I could use, but if I don't need it, I'll let him keep it :-).
<Try it without for a while. If your husbandry habits are good, you should be fine>
Wow I had more questions than I thought today.
<Sounds like me! I can relate!>
Thanks for your time. Bill
<No problem, Bill! Catch you soon! Scott F>

- Marine Setup Questions -
Dear Jason,
<Hello...>
Thanks for the tip...  Here's an update of my 15gal tank and some questions....
12 Jul Readings: Salinity - 1.022, pH - 8.0, KH - 13, NH3 - 0.0, NO2 - 1.6. , NO3 - 10.0
15 Jul Readings: Salinity - 1.022, pH - 8.3, KH - 13, NH3 - 0.0, NO2 - 0.0. , NO3 - 2.5
Managed to get the pH up.... = )
In less than three days, my nitrite and ammonia has dropped to zero... I wonder why but reckon that it could be due to the reason that I have changed my old overhead filter (on the 13 Jul) to a canister filter (Model: Eheim 2217) that is meant for a 160gal tank (at 264gal per hour).  They said that using a filter that is meant for a larger tank is good. At a higher rate of water circulation, is this really so? <I agree.> The filter bags in my canister filter consisted of active carbon, fine crushed coral (for biological filtering) and cotton pads.  The shop that sold me this included a special formulated pad (not sure what it is) that is meant for chemical and biological filtering... not sure what it is but it is a reputable marine shop in our small country (Singapore).  It's their special formula for small marine tanks and is reputed to last for six months (with proper care of course). <Well... just keep an eye on it and it stays clean, and/or clean it when it gets clogged.>
Questions:
1) Is it possible for the cycle to complete so fast? <Yes.> Less than a week considering my set-up...  I just did a 10% water change.  Am I ready to add some critters? <I would wait a little while longer, let that rock grow some critters of its own.>
2) Some brown algae are appearing on the LR and glass... I was told that this will be expected after cycling? <Often.> I did some scrubbing and added a turbo snail...
3) I also bought and added some Caulerpa taxifolia to assist with the external removal of nitrate and also to rob away the nutrients to prevent further growth of brown algae.  What do you think?  I heard that Caulerpa taxifolia can spread real fast and requires regular trimming....  what other things should I observe for the Caulerpa in my 15gal tank? <I wouldn't use this in such a small system, but in any case do prune this often if you are using it for nutrient export... in other words, make sure you export it.>
Right now, the "residents" in my tank includes a blue yellow-tailed damsel (I chose it over the other damsels because they are less aggressive considering the size of my tank), 3 feather dusters and a turbo snail and a bunch of Caulerpa taxifolia... what other fishes can I include for my set up? <I wouldn't put too much in there.> I am thinking of something useful such as a blenny? <This would be about the limit.> How about Invertebrates... I thinking of adding cleaner shrimps... and if so, which type is preferred and how many? <One cleaner shrimp of any variety you choose would be fine.> Perhaps some small polyps as well?
Husbandry techniques:
1) 5% water change weekly + regular top up.
2) Add 5ml of Seachem Reef Calcium weekly to assist in the coralline algae growth after water change (I feel that this is crucial in my 15 gal tank for nitrate export) <Coralline doesn't really qualify as nutrient export - grows much too slowly.>
3) Add 5ml of Seachem Reef Iodide weekly <I wouldn't do this without testing.>
4) Add Kent Marine MicroVert weekly (about 3ml in a syringe squirted onto the feather dusters)... <I would skip this stuff and go directly to DT's live phytoplankton.>
Is the dosage ok?  I don't want to add too many supplements since it is a small tank but are those above alone enough for my small reef set up.  If I added the small polyps, do I need to raise the dosage? <I wouldn't.>
My deepest apologies for asking too many questions but I really want to be a responsible marine tank owner... Knowledge is important.
Thanks!
Caleb
<Cheers, J -- >