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The Great Octopus Pilgrimage - 07/12/2005 Gentlemen, <Err..... Gentlelady Sabrina with you today, though possibly neither gentle nor ladylike! (grin)> After a long journey-I have found you. A pilgrimage across the web, through pop-ups and lighting sales- as a new saltwater aquarium has brought me here to you, oh great wise crab of the sea (might be a compliment, might not, ya nevah know). <I like crabs. I'll take that one as a compliment. Crabs are neat critters.> Since your time is valuable- Here's the stats: 55 Gal Tank Two (2) power heads (which occasionally I will allow to mix air w/ water) <Not necessary, IMO, and may possibly get "too" much dissolved air into the water.... Some folks believe that injecting air with a powerhead might help contribute to "gas bubble disease" - sort of fishy "bends". I'm not convinced of this. However, if the surface of the water is sufficiently agitated, you may not need additional aeration at all.> attached with undergravel filter-layered w/ crushed coral. <Much to say and not say on this.... I, personally, would urge you away from the use of an undergravel filter for a marine tank, but that is not to say that it is impossible for a tank to function with one.... Start reading here on filtration methods, and form opinions of your own: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm .... as you can see, there really is just toooooo much information to pack into a single brief email on this topic.> 30 LBS of Live Rock ( a current addition) <Ahh, good.> Fluval 405 canister filter <Pros and cons here, too - if properly maintained and cleaned regularly, I would use this *instead* of the UGF, and use a fine layer of crushed coral or aragonite sand as substrate, or go with a deep sand bed (4"+ of oolitic aragonite sand). Sufficient live rock, a deep sand bed, a good skimmer, and powerheads for circulation is all the filtration I use.> The tank is 3 weeks old. <An exciting time.... I will caution you, there is so much information out there, it can be very daunting; please don't get discouraged! Enjoy the pursuit of knowledge, and keep in mind you have us (can join us on our chatforums: http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk ) and the wealth of knowledge in WWM and on other informative sites to back you up. Err, "We're here for ya, man!"> The tank was habitat to a cichlid family when I got it. Since, I have converted it to saltwater. <Many a great tank has begun in this manner.> Now that you know the environment-here are some of my questions, oh masters of life balance: My ammonium is zero, but my nitrites and nitrates are really high... is this just a normal cycle process or does it indicate some environmental issue? <Just a-cycling', my friend.> Should the tank have no need to cycle because it was home to freshwater fish prior to it being salt? <The saltwater nitrogen cycle and the freshwater nitrogen cycle are handled by different bacteria altogether. Thus, you will most definitely have the tank cycling. The live rock alone will get this tackled for you, please do not add fish until after the cycle has completed. Also, please consider quarantining animals prior to placing in the display tank.> How long can I go w/o a protein skimmer? <Umm, as long as you can stand it, really. A skimmer will help by removing dissolved organics from the water - you will have a sort of a tradeoff between how much work you want to put into water changes and how much you want to spend on the tank. A quality skimmer is worth every dime, and with skimmers, you really do get what you pay for. What improvements should I make in order to make my tank more livable? <What *I* would do (keep in mind, there are many, many ways to skin a catfish!) is remove the UGF, omit the canister but keep it around for occasional use (carbon, other resins when necessary), add a quality skimmer - AquaC remora would be my choice - switch out the crushed coral for a DSB, and add another 20-30 lbs of live rock. But that's just me. There are a bazillion other options, out there.> I eventually would like to have an octopus <Woah, holy mackinaw, an octopus, eh? MUCH will be needed in the way of modifications to the tank.... Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cephalop.htm - and be sure to go through the FAQs linked in blue at the top.> and numerous corals. <Mm, in a 55g tank, you'll be limited on space for corals.... and again, there's toooo much information than I can pack in here. Begin here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm - and keep in mind that other factors, especially lighting and selection of inhabitants for the tank, will determine what kind of corals you can safely house.> A humbled thanks is given to each of you whom, each day, whilst negotiating ones own life, continues to answers questions from baffled buffoons such like I. <Count me a buffoon, too, my friend. I plan to be learning for a long time yet to come.> You are heroes in you own like, fine gentlemen. <And crabs. Or gentleladies. Or whatever category I fall into. Such an exciting time awaits you; so many wonders to learn.... Do please make use of our marine database ( http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm ) and take things slowly as you embark upon this fantastic living room-ocean journey. Wishing you and your tank well, -Sabrina> New saltwater tank setup Hello everyone. First off I wanted to say thanks for all the great answers you give for the FAQ's. They have been a huge help to everyone. <Ah, good> I have been helping my brother/roommate keep two saltwater tanks (76 gal and 30 gal) for about two years. I recently have moved and am about to set up my own tank. I was just hoping for a little advice on my intended setup. I am going to purchase an All-Glass 95 gallon Waveline Tank with the MegaFlow. I am planning on getting a sump with a 1200 gph pump to place under the cabinet. Could you recommend a good in sump protein skimmer? <Yes... posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm> In the tank I am planning on two 1600 gph Tunze Stream pumps, two 250 Watt Ebo Jager heaters. I am initially assuming I will need 90-100 pounds of live rock, and enough sand to cover the tank 2-3 inches deep (around 4 bags). As for lighting I am planning a 250 Watt Power Compact light. I plan on getting a banana wrasse, a triggerfish, and two tangs. Do you have any other recommendations for my setup? Thanks, Cory <Very nice gear... set it up, investigate what else you like, its compatibility... build around your core choices. Bob Fenner> Re: First New Tank >Hi All.. >>Greetings, Marina here. >Wanted to get some advice as I am in the planning stage of my first saltwater adventure. I have a 54 gallon corner tank and the setup I was thinking of was Fluval 304 canister filter, two maxi-jet MP900 powerheads for current, 20lbs. Texas holey rock and 30lbs. live rock with 4inch deep sand bed as substrate. >>What is "Texas holey rock"? If it is, as I suspect, simply rock from Texas with many holes, you want to be very careful of what minerals you're putting into your system. Mineral leach is the issue. >Does this look okay? I have tried to read and research, there are so many opinions and ideas that I wanted to see if I was on the right track. >>Ah, my friend, as much art as science to this hobby. This is because so many have found success and failure using the "exact" same methods. >My questions surround lighting, I intend to start FOWL and then progress to add coral and inverts after some time has gone by. >>Then you should not set up using the canister filter, but instead go directly to a sump design. The reasons in favor of this are vast and myriad. >Should I invest in upgraded lights now to save the time later or wait and see. >>I would wait, as it is your filtration that will first need to be addressed. >I plan to cycle fishless with live rock and then add two false perculas and one yellow tang along with a few snails and hermit crabs as a cleaner crew. >>Nix the tang, it will RAPIDLY outgrow something with the footprint of a 54 corner. Consider instead a hardy Centropyge angel for similar movement and hardiness. Also, cycling isn't done WITH live rock--live rock must be cured, an entirely different process altogether. Fishless cycling is the culturing of nitrifying bacteria using other food sources than fish wastes. Raw shrimp is often used, as is simply some of the food you'll be feeding the fish. Test (with quality test kit) to determine all cultures are established, and THEN you have a cycled tank. Curing is the process of allowing rock to stabilize post-ship due to the die-off incurred because of shipping methods. When curing, one should do large, frequent water changes and copious foam fractionation to AVOID further die-off. Live rock already comes with good seed colonies of nitrifying AND denitrifying bacteria. So, make CERTAIN your live rock is cured FIRST, then set up the system with the cured l/r in situ, and begin the CYCLING process as outlined above. >I guess I want to avoid spending an arm and a leg for a super light system if I can support some corals and inverts such as anemones with maybe 130 watts from power compact?? NewReeferPaul >>Nix the anemones--among THE most difficult inverts to cultivate, unless you wish to grow Aiptasia, which are proven to take all abuse meted out upon them. Also, wattage is a difficult means by which to assess actual light quality and quantity. What is important to know is intensity (measured in lux or lumens) and color temperature (relative to sunlight) measured in Kelvin. Configure lighting along with consideration for tank depth, then choose photosynthetic species accordingly. Hope this helps, and look up the links in this section of our site for MUCHO information--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm >>Best of luck! Marina 2 New False Perculas >First off I would like to thank you for the very valuable and unmatched info you have provided to all willing to ask! >>You're most welcome, as are all. Marina today. >I am about 8 weeks since setting up my 45gal, LR, LS, setup. I am using a AquaC Remora skimmer, and Magnum 350 canister as my only (plug-in) filtration, and a power head inside the tank for a little extra water movement. Lighting is a 7hrs. on a day Coralife VHO 96W 50/50 fluorescent (all-in-one-system) Currently established in the tank are 1 Peppermint shrimp, 2 chocolate chip stars, about a dozen or so scarlet and blue leg crabs, one emerald crab, couple snails, 1 queen conch...and this week put in the 2 new clowns (false Percula) they are supposedly tank raised, and they look very healthy. They have been in the tank 2 days now, and have been very active after about 5 minutes of getting used to the aquarium. They always are hiding in the corner till I walk into the room...then they come up to the front of the tank to see what's going on. >>That sounds captive bred to me. >I have been feeding them, and they have eaten graciously "Formula One marine pellet" by Ocean Nutrition. It has been the only thing I have been target feeding them. I noticed they are stealing scraps of frozen clam I am feeding to the stars. Should I be trying to diversify their food better? And if yes, with what? >>Yes, and the clams are a good start. Soak it in Selcon a few times a week for best nutrition. Also, squid, octopus, and raw shrimp are all good choices for variety. Frozen mysis shrimp will only add to the variety. Treat them as you would yourself, variety is key to a healthy diet. Do know that you will not be able to keep many soft corals/polyps with the chocolate chips stars. Also, if you set up a sump/refugium, you will be able to eliminate the Magnum 350, and then set THAT up with the diatom filter for fast water polishing. >They never seem to sleep, is this normal? They seem to have paired up well from the start...one smaller than the other, and I am planning on putting in an anemone in a month or so. >>You will not be able to keep many anemones well with the lighting and filtration you have described. Also, many relate that captive bred clowns are not as eager to adopt anemones, they seem to not know *what* to do with them. Please check these links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm -- DO follow ALL the links you can find within these three, more will ensue, and soon you'll find that there is a VAST amount of anemone-related information here. >Sound like a good idea? I have been having trouble finding a good first anemone both for me and the clowns (false Percula) that will be easy to keep. >>This is because there is effectively no such thing. Unless you count Aiptasia, but the clowns will have no use or affinity for them. >I have not decided yet on any more livestock after this because I am very worried about overstocking the tank. All water parameters seem good with the exception of a very consistent 82 degree temp reading. Never budgeted a chiller into the equation, and I hope I won't have to. Any other thoughts concerns or info into what I may be doing wrong would be incredibly appreciated. >>I'm operating from the assumption that you are endeavoring to do things RIGHT, and the only suggestion I have for you is to make use of muffin fans--set them up (installed in the hood/canopy is the most visually appealing) blowing across the surface of the water and you should see the temp dropping a few degrees. >Thank you for reading this over in advance. >>You're quite welcome, and I do hope this helps. Best of luck, Marina Re: 2 New False Perculas >Marina~ Thanks for all the info. >>Most welcome, I'm glad you found it useful. >You hit the nail right on the head in saying..."I'm operating under the assumption that you are endeavoring to do things RIGHT" I have tried as much as possible to carefully plan all aspects of the aquarium out before doing anything. >>Kudos to you, far too many buy a tank and some fish and only THEN think to ask any questions. I believe I can count the entire crew when I say that WE find this practice irresponsible. >I started thinking about this close to a year ago! I know that the Chocolate Chip stars are going to limit me severely. In order to keep the wheels of my household well oiled I had to equate them in...the girlfriend fell in love with them...so they allow her to justify all the money and time I have been "investing". >>Understood. <wink wink> >I have already began to think about the sump/refugium setup in the near future. You have definitely helped me out...I am going to do the muffin fans as well to cool things off. >>Very glad to hear it. If you've gone through some of the site you already know that we have many articles and FAQ's on these, as well as other methods of filtration and natural nitrate reduction. >Thanks again, Steve >>Very glad to be of help, and best of luck. Marina New 55 >Hello crew, >>Good day, Marina here.
>Could you give me an example of a good stocking plan for a new 55
system that is leaning toward a reef setup? Tank equipment
is now being assembled. System will include approximately 50
lb. live rock in a AGA 55 with corner overflow. A skimmer in
sump with Aqua C 120 skimmer driven by Mag drive 500, return by Mag
drive 700. My Eheim 2026 will initially have biological material in it
as well as a Corallife 9 watt UV on the output side. >>If you
intend to keep filter feeders the UV will undo (read: kill) what
you're trying to achieve in a reef setup. I will assume
your purpose with the UV is to kill parasitic organisms--do know that,
like antibiotics, it is indiscriminate. Your BEST bet in
preventing parasitic and other infection is to set up and ALWAYS make
best use of a quarantine system. Nothing fancy is required,
but a 30 day minimum is. >My intent is to eventually remove the
biologic material and fill it with floss and activated charcoal or
Chempure as required. >>I assume you mean carbon, and
with a healthy reef setup this is not required. Do plan on
cleaning the canister frequently. >I will throttle back the output
to better match the optimal UV flow rate. Need a stocking
plan! Would like a Centropyge angel, small hardy less
aggressive Damsels (2) or clowns (2), yellow tang and a flame
hawkfish. I think that about all that will fit in my
55. Any thoughts? >>Only that you must be
sure to get a VERY small tang, and do know that it *will* outgrow the
55 (sooner or later depends on many factors). If you're
planning specifically on a yellow tang, then leave out all yellow
angels. There is a tiny Caribbean beauty called the Cherub
or Pygmy angelfish (Centropyge argi) that is also very hardy and a
fantastic beginner fish. Personally, I would nix the
damsels, green Chromis are the only readily available and relatively
peaceful damsels you're going to have best luck finding, I think
you can get more "bang for your buck" if you go with
something like a Banggai cardinal, instead. Or, get animals
that love the rockwork--instead of the two damsels get a dottyback
(Pseudochromis) or Royal Gramma/Fairy Basslet, and maybe some gobies
(Neons are quite smaller, peaceful, and do perform some cleaning
duties). There are also small wrasses to be had, six/eight
lines immediately come to mind, that are just as active as the
damsels. Anything that is called "devil" is called
such because of behavior (beware the BLUE DEVIL!). When
selecting clowns, try to get captive bred, and I would recommend
Percula or ocellaris, again because they are most
peaceful. I do hope this helps, and best of luck to you,
Rick. Marina New Tank-New Ideas! Dear Crew: <Hello there! Scott F. at the ready today> I truly appreciate the help you have given me (both directly and by my daily reading of the FAQ) over the past 7 months. I started out by converting and 80G FW to FOWLR with a Remora Pro, 30G refugium, Emperor 400 power filter and Aquazone 100 ozonizer. I now have the resources to dramatically expand my set-up. <That is VERY exciting!> I am working with 2 LFS on this project. If this goes to Anthony, it is Randy at MSM in Centerville, UT who is helping me with filtration; tank, livestock and some other things will come from another great LFS here in the SLC area.) <Glad that you are suppporting those LFS's!> I am now the proud owner of an AGA pre-drilled 180G to be FOWLR. We start setting everything up in my basement August 7. Randy is constructing a custom 48X18X18 acrylic sump that will include a DSB & algae, and a Euro-Reef CS8-2 skimmer (with ozone). The overflows will drain into this and the outflow will be pumped back into the 180 by an Iwaki MD30 splitting the return through the two return bulkheads. We will drill an additional hole in the back of the tank. This will be pumped with an Iwaki MD30 and the flow split between the 80G (FOWLR to start; reef in a year or so) and a 44G corner tank refugium (DSB, algae & 'pod factory). Both of these tanks will be a few inches higher than the 180 and will gravity drain back into the 180. <Excellent placement...textbook!> These returns will be drilled and T down into the 180, with the top of the T vented. Gate valves will regulate the return to cut bubbles. This type of return system is working quite nicely in my current set-up. I will continue to use the Remora Pro on the back of the 80G I think I will also keep the Emperor 400 on the back of the 180 just for flow (400 GPH). <Idea...don't use the Emperor. How about a more powerful main system pump...like an Iwaki MD55 (1,050gph). You can always dial down the flow if needed, and you'll have the extra "juice" available if you want it...> I currently own about 170 lb of excellent LR. I plan to get another 100-150 lbs over the next couple of months. I will split this between the 180 and the 80. the 80 will continue to have a 5" DSB for my jawfish. I plane to leave the bottom of the 180 bare. I will have some heavy eaters/poopers in there (Raccoon Butterfly, Snowflake Eel, Majestic Angel-already 5" and thriving in 80G, Bird Wrasse, Purple Tang, and Foxface Rabbitfish), so I would like to be able to vacuum. <A good thought. I still like the look/benefits of a sandbed, though. I have personally maintained and seen many "modest" sized DSB's (like 4 inches) in FO tanks that worked well, though. You may want just a sprinkling of sand (like less than 1/2") just for aesthetics?> Before I glue everything together, I wanted to run this by you to see If you would recommend any tweaks to the set-up. Most importantly, I am considering adding a few power heads to increase circulation. Should I do this? <Personally, with all of the good planning and "front end engineering" that you are doing to this system, why ruin it with ugly, failure prone, heat-producing internal powerheads (can you tell I don't like 'em?)? Better to build the extra circulation into your system ahead of time, or at least the capability for it. As stated previously, I'd go with a more powerful main system pump. You'll gain greater flexibility, for one thing. Why not figure out a way to incorporate a couple of Sea Swirls into the return for more even water distribution than static returns? Or, you could construct a closed loop for more circulation. Or...you could even use external powerheads, such as Geminis or Tunzes..These pumps can add amazing flow rates (like into the thousands of GPH, if you're using more than one) with little energy cost, and virtually no heat! Worth looking into> Does the planned filtration seem adequate? <Seems fine to me. You'll still need to be careful with regular maintenance. You plan on having a lot of rather messy-eating, high metabolic waste-producing fishes in there...In fact- you may want to pare down the stocking list just a bit, IMO.> If I want to add corals to the 80, will it need it's own separate sump?<Not if it's benefiting from the "treatment" afforded by the systems of the main tank (skimmer. 'fuge, etc.). Lighting would be a consideration, of course.> I know I'll eventually need better lighting. I am currently using conventional fluorescent strip lights on the 80 and will on the 180 as well. The sump will have PCs. Any suggestions for lighting the 44G (22X13X13X13X22 pentagon 25" high) for Chaetomorpha and/.or Gracilaria? <I'd opt for PC's in this application. You'll get more "bang for the buck" with them on a small tank. The height of this tank will be a factor. As a Gracilaria and Chaetomorpha freak, I can tell you that the Chaetomorpha will do fine under PC's. The Gracilaria will fare okay- but the key for success with Gracilaria is to keep it tumbling in the water column...You have to figure out a way to do this in order to be consistently successful with this macroalgae, IMO.> I have tried to plan this meticulously--much more so that the first go round-but there always seems to be some little and important detail that goes unnoticed until it is quite inconvenient to deal with. <Ain't that always the case? I probably didn't get all of the "tweaks" that you could do, but hopefully I may have given you some food for thought in a few areas...You're right: Better to modify when the system is in the planning phase, than after setup> Thanks, Steve Allen <A pleasure, Steve! Regards, Scott F> PS Anthony & Bob: Have either of you ever considered coming to SLC to speak to the local marine aquarium club? Perhaps you'd be interested in skiing "the greatest snow on earth? <Bob? Anthony? How about it?> There's lots of other interesting things to see and do in this state in every season. BTW, You probably know that a large share of the brine shrimp sold in this country comes from here. One of my neighbors has made so much money harvesting brine shrimp from the Great Salt Lake that he gave up his law practice to have time to spend it all. <Hey guys- how 'bout it? Snow, tons of fish nerds, and all the brine shrimp you can eat! Sounds like a pretty good deal!> -Hex marine setup- Hi, I was given a smaller 30 or 40 gallon octagonal tank and stand. (no lid, heater or anything else with it) I would really like to go purchase a lid and other items needed for it and start a saltwater tank. <Sounds do-able> I do know that the octagonal are not a great choice but is there anything I can have live safely in it? <Sure, just nothing that likes to swim a lot.> I am really interested in the clown fish or tangs or I would really like to have some kind of fish that is colorful and fun to feed. <Clownfish would work, tangs are a definite no due to their space needs.> Fun, I mean eating living shrimp, fish, etc. <Well, you can feed the fish live brine shrimp, but you never EVER feed freshwater feeder fish to marines.> There are way to many sites I am looking at and just want to ask someone for their advise as to setting it up and what and how many fish I can have or if it will not work at all and everything will die. <Haha, yeah, lets not let that happen!> It is for a small home office so I do not want to take up a lot of room. Should I be thinking about a different tank or can I make this pretty one and space saving one work with just a few living things in it? <This one could work, but since the cost of the tank pales in comparison to all the stuff hanging off and in the tank, you may want to make sure that this is a size that you want. Check out this article and other links on the page and hit us back if you have any more Q's: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/small.htm Good luck! -Kevin> Thank you in advance! Kim A Beginner all Over Again! <Morning! Ryan here> I am looking for some advice. <Sure> I have spent countless hours reading the articles and FAQ's on your site, and I think I am more confused than ever. It seems that there are at least a dozen different correct ways to do just about everything. <That's the fun part!> And different combinations of lighting, filtration, circulation, tank, and livestock result in an exponential number of formulas for success (or failure). I have only had one tank in the past, a 110 gal reef tank with VHO lights and EcoSystem filtration. I had it up for over 2 years with nothing but pleasant results. I recently accepted a position 2000 miles away from home. After much deliberation I decided to break apart my system and start over after my relocation. My problem is I am thinking about doing a fish only aquarium, and I have had no experience with fish only set-ups. I would like to try some large fish, puffers, triggers, lions, maybe some angels, tangs, possibly a snowflake eel. I know what worked for me before for a 110 gal reef tank, but have no idea what will work for a 175 gal fish only tank. If you were setting up this tank what would you use? Is the ecosystem filtration even an option? Live rock or just decorative rock? Live sand or crushed coral or aragonite? How much lighting? Protein skimmer? Wet/Dry filter? Refugium (ecosystem or other)? People say that taking care of a reef tank is more difficult than fish only, but I didn't have to do a whole heck of a lot with my previous set up after it was established, just clean the glass and do a partial water change every month and everything kind of took care of itself for the most part. I'm having difficulty sifting through the many and varied opinions on many different topics and coming up with right combinations that fit my particular situation. I know I am going to miss the Corals and Inverts, but I really want to give the big guys a try. Any assistance you can provide will be much appreciated. <Jeremy, this sounds like quite a project. Having predators requires a different type of attention to detail. Many aquarists foul their own water with overfeeding and under-filtering this type of setup. You've got to invest in a great skimmer, and some serious filtration. For filtration, I understand why you're confused! My personal preference would be to invest in the live rock, and build or buy a refugium. I would purchase about 250 pounds of live rock for your size tank, and have a 40+ gallon refugium. Keep your sand bed under an inch for cleaning purposes. Do you currently have a sump? I would still use this for a place to process water. I encourage you to stock this tank very slowly. Keep nitrates under 30 ppm- and keep in mind that you're going to be doing a lot of the cleaning yourself. A cleanup crew won't last long with that selection! Make sure you leave a couple inches between the rock and glass so you can get in there! I see your biggest problem being algae, to which the refugium should be a great help. This sounds like fun- I'm jealous! Good luck! Ryan> Thank you, <Anytime- keep us posted! Let's see some pics when you're all set up.> Jeremy Tank Setup - 07/13/03 Hello <Hello Darek, PF with you here tonight> I've got a 90g cube tank and I want to put there a group of ocellaris, Acanthurus leucosternon, Zebrasoma flavescens and mandarin/what do you think? I have 150 w HQI and 50 w actinics water movement will be strong and besides fish I want to have just 1 big or2-3 smaller Heteractis magnifica. What is your opinion? Should I add refugium or not. if so should I light it 24 or 12 hours a day. How strong should be water movement and should I use powerheads with waver or surge device. There is a problem with water level in sump using surge device and I wanted to add niveau to the sump, do you have an idea how to deal with it? Should I use a kalkwasser with this system The same question to ozone (can I use it periodically and without ORP measuring) Best regards Darek <Well Darek, I would say pick one of the tangs, IMO the Zebrasoma. The tank is to small for the mandarin, I wouldn't advise a mandarin in anything smaller than a 120, and that's at least 6 months old. Skip the anemones, most don't survive in tanks, in the wilds they live for hundreds of years. Always yes to a refugium, and generally I've seen 12 hours offset to your main tank advised. Say turning your water over 10-12 times is a good idea. SCWD's are a very good method of producing current, as are Turbelle? streams. I couldn't find niveau on a google search, at least on a site who's language I can read, so I can't answer you there. Yes on the kalkwasser, I would advise dosing 1/16 of a teaspoon in about a cup of cold water. See pg. 185 of Anthony Calfo's Book of Coral Propagation, V1.0. If you want to use ozone, be sure and use an ORP meter, but on the whole, I don't think it's necessary. Hopefully, this answers your questions, have a nice night, PF> The Finding Nemo Aquarium Howdy! I have small (10 gal!) tank with a Percula and a Hippo.<This aquarium is too small for the hippo tang. I would suggest trading it in for a more appropriate species of fish for this small aquarium (these fish grow to a foot or more in the wild)> The tank is vertical with power compact lighting and a Skilter 250.<ok> After recently overcoming a nasty case of Cyanobacteria (my first experience with such a thing in 5 years),<Wow you have been lucky> I have excitement back to develop my tank farther (a larger income helped too).<Agreed> All I have in my tank are the two fish and live rock (15 pounds?). This is what I would like to do: 1). Add a Xenia or a Sarcophyton (I have not experienced with soft corals/anemones and have read that these are some of the best for a 'beginner'). <Yes> 2). Add some crustacean. What kind would you recommend? Cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, etc.<I would suggest some hermits and maybe a blood shrimp/ cleaner shrimp.> Thanks for your help! ~Tiffany <Glad to help, IanB> Slow Leak-What Next? Plans for bigger better Kind Sirs, <Hello! Ryan this morning> I arrived home from vacation yesterday to find my 30 gal aquarium had a slow leak. <I'm sorry to hear that> It seems the bottom seal is starting to give way. <Is it an old tank?> I caught it in time, carpet slightly wet, particle board stand pretty much sucked up most of the water and only about a 1/2" of water missing from the tank. <Guardian angel must have been fish-sitting!> Currently I have a 18 gal Rubbermaid tub filled with tank water and 20 lbs of live rock (aerating), a 5 gal bucket with 2 clowns, feather duster, yellow damsel, and a cleaner shrimp (aerating). I will be moving them to the Rubbermaid later today (wanted to make sure that didn't leak) and a 5 gal bucket with tank water (brown - the 30 gal was a UG setup) and the crushed coral. My current situation has put me into the express lane to purchase the 75 gal I was researching to set up. <Understandably> It looks as though I'll be going with the 75 gal AGA reef set up with only the one corner overflow. I wanted to look into having a tank drilled, but with my lack of plumbing experience I figured I'd better go with something pre-made. <It's not nearly as imposing once you roll up your sleeves. I would recommend you look into more- this may be the last tank you buy for some time. Check out http://www.ozreef.org/ for some great ideas. Corner overflows can be loud- this may or may not matter to you.> Future plans will consist of adding a above tank refugium to the sump. <Great! Ideal> Many questions on how fast can I upgrade to the 75. Can I get away with adding all the water from the 30 (including the brown) to the 75 and then adding freshly made salt water. (I would like to avoid keeping them in the Rubbermaid while the tank cycles). The new tank will have a 1" sand bed and I will put some of the crushed coral in mesh to provide some bacteria to the sand. Or would I be better off to have a half filled 75 gal and slowly add 10 gal a week over I period of time, using power heads to circulate the tank. Or some possible alterative that you might have. <This really depends on if you're adding more live rock or not. If you're buying a huge new quantity of live rock, just use the new synthetic saltwater and the rock will cycle it for you. If you're going to do it slowly, adding pieces of rock gradually, go ahead and dump in the old stuff. Any way you do it, this is going to recycle.> As for the 30 gal. It seems the this will become my curing tank for the new rock I will need to purchase. <Possible QT later as well> As for resealing. Can I get away with just adding sealant over the existing or should I look to remove some of the old and put the new sealant over? <If this is never going to be a permanent aquarium again, just patch it. If you plan on using it, do it right.> Also, I'm sort of reluctant to turn the heater on attached to the Rubbermaid, should I be concerned with melting (?) or would this be ok? <Should be fine, just watch the temperature very carefully for the first day or so.> Any thoughts or links to your sight would be much appreciated. Received the new book, only glanced at it quickly, looks great. I was hoping to make it a slow read, now it seems like it's going to be a crash course. <Dave, this will be fine. Just keep a close eye on your livestock, and enjoy this experience! If you're not comfortable with the whole Rubbermaid deal, go get yourself a couple 10 gallon cheap-o tanks. Take your time! It's easy to rush it with a new tank, especially if you already have fish in limbo. There are many similar stories on the FAQs- they should be very helpful. Good luck! Ryan> Thanks again, DaveK - System Upgrades - Hi WWM crew <Good morning, JasonC here...> I have a concern about some changes I am about to make to one of my systems. Current system consists of 2 fish tanks with a sump in the middle. One is 40 gallons the other is 75 both have DSB in them roughly 4 to 5 inches each. I am going to remove the 40 and put in a 125 this tank will not have a DSB (I am going all SPS and have found with the amount of water current flowing their always seems to be some sand floating around). My concern is this I am removing half of my filtration and adding roughly 80 gallons of new saltwater. What do you think, will this be a problem? <Probably not, but I would just take my time, stock the new tank slowly - the shared sump, and thusly the shared system water will cycle the new tank almost instantly. The biological filter will grow to meet the needs of the system if you take your time. You might also consider using the old substrate (which won't be a DSB in the new tank) and then covering it with a layer of new, coarse crushed coral to keep the dust down. This would give you a good kick-start on the new tank.> The system has been up for roughly 2 1/2 years. Thanks <Cheers, J -- > - Marine Tank Setup - Hi! <And hello to you, JasonC here...> I read through your FAQs sections and really gain a lot of knowledge about marine tank setup from there. I am from Singapore and have just embarked onto a marine tank set up. Use to keep Freshwater Tetra, then African Malawi Cichlids before I decided to give marine tank set up a shot. Though I understand that "bigger is better" for marine tank, I am confined with space and decided to continue using my present 2 ft (15 gallon) acrylic tank. I promise I will keep the bioload down and keep only minimal number of fishes... probably LR, some corals, a clown, goby and a blue damsel... Is this ok? <Well... if bigger is better, than smaller is more precarious. Just keep in mind that things can change in a 15 gallon tank very quickly. The main goal in marine fish keeping is stability. Consider that the ocean covers 2/3 of the planet which means things don't change there very quickly. This is what you must emulate to succeed.> I have just set up my tank two days ago and now it's still cycling (with some LR [covering 1/3 of the tank] and 1/4" Crushed Coral as substrate). I was given a UGF but didn't use it because I heard that it will bring some problems in the long term. <No problems, but antiquated... much better off with the live rock.> My questions are as such: 1) Because I was given Coarse Crushed Coral, I only used it thinly (around 1/4") to cover the base. If I religiously vacuum this thin layer of CCC substrate periodically, would it be a problem for nitrate built-up? <No.> Is it absolutely necessary that I switch to aragonite sand or LS though I understand it's preferred. <No.> 2) I chucked away my overhead trickle filter and got a canister filter... under your recommendation... <Oh?> I think this is good. <It's not bad, but must be kept clean to keep the flow consistent.> 3) A 2500 powerhead to create "currents"... 4) Power Compact 10k White Light + Actinic Blue Light. For a 15 gallon tank, is this good enough for coral? <What is the wattage and what types of corals? The type of corals you can keep will vary accordingly.> I am afraid metal-halides will get too hot since water depth is only 12". 5) Protein Skimmer (Those that are attached to an air pump with air passing through a wood block). Is this good enough for a 15 gallon tank? <Sure.> I collected a lot of brown "muck" recently... I think it's normal for a new tank that is cycling with LR, is this so? <Yes.> Right now, my water readings are these... Salinity - 1.022, pH - 8.0, KH - 13, NH3 - 0.0, NO2 - 1.6 (Very High). Is this normal for a new tank that has just began cycling? <Yes.> Please advise. <Work on getting the pH up between 8.2 and 8.4.> Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Caleb Singapore <Cheers, J -- > Moving from a reef to a FOWLR - 07/09/03 <Hi Jeremy, PF with you tonight> I am looking for some advise. I have spent countless hours reading the articles and FAQ's on your site, and I think I am more confused than ever. It seems that there are at least a dozen different correct ways to do just about everything. And different combinations of lighting, filtration, circulation, tank, and livestock result in an exponential number of formulas for success (or failure). I have only had one tank in the past, a 110 gal reef tank with VHO lights and Ecosystem filtration. I had it up for over 2 years with nothing but pleasant results. I recently accepted a position 2000 miles away from home. After much deliberation I decided to break apart my system and start over after my relocation. My problem is I am thinking about doing a fish only aquarium, and I have had no experience with fish only set-ups. I would like to try some large fish, puffers, triggers, lions, maybe some angels, tangs, possibly a snowflake eel. I know what worked for me before for a 110 gal reef tank, but have no idea what will work for a 175 gal fish only tank. If you were setting up this tank what would you use? Is the ecosystem filtration even an option? Live rock or just decorative rock? Live sand or crushed coral or aragonite? How much lighting? Protein skimmer? Wet/Dry filter? Refugium (ecosystem or other)? People say that taking care of a reef tank is more difficult than fish only, but I didn't have to do a whole heck of a lot with my previous set up after it was established, just clean the glass and do a partial water change every month and everything kind of took care of itself for the most part. I'm having difficulty sifting through the many and varied opinions on many different topics and coming up with right combinations that fit my particular situation. I know I am going to miss the Corals and Inverts, but I really want to give the big guys a try. Any assistance you can provide will be much appreciated. Thank you, Jeremy <Well Jeremy, what follows is my advice. Ask someone else and you'll get a different answer. Yes on the refugium, they are always a good idea. Do be sure and have it as a gravity fed return, better for adding food to your tank that way. I would also advise a sump so you put equipment in there, esp. things like heaters which some fish are prone to breaking. Live rock for filtration, and a deep sand bed using aragonite, seeded with some sand from other aquarists tanks. I'd also recommend letting it sit fallow for a few months to give your detritivores time to establish themselves. You can use NO lights since you're not worried about making sure your photosynthetic can survive. Hope this helps, PF> In the Wall Tank: 100g vs. 120g. - 07/09/03 Hello - <Hi Lori, PF with you here tonight> Been reading here and http://www.nano-reef.com for the last month to get info on an in wall reef tank I plan to have set-up in Dec this year. Am ready to start planning the specifics of the system and am at the first decision.... tank. The placement will be in wall, where the of the tank will be in a large storage room. Am trying to decide between the Tenecor 100r and the 120r. The only think that has me leaning toward the 100r is the depth of 20" vs. the 24" on the 120r. I'm thinking how much easier it would be to reach to the bottom (which I always seem to be doing in my 12 gal nano), but am wondering if I would regret this decision in the long run. In your opinion, do the benefits of the extra depth aesthetically and the extra volume of the 120r outweigh not being able to easily reach to the bottom of the tank? Thanks so much for your sight and all the valuable info you provide! Lori <Well Lori, bigger is always better with reef tanks. As for depth, don't forget your sand bed. By using the 120 you can put a 6" DSB in there easily, or even an 8" one (don't go deeper than that though, they're best between 4"-8"). Hope this helps, PF> - New Tank Setup Questions - <Hello, JasonC here...> Dear WWM, I've found all of your advice (especially when my pH hit 8.6+ this spring) and suggestions so helpful, so first of all, thank you for your past courtesies! This is by no means an emergency, so respond if you get the chance, as I value your opinions about everything from equipment recommendations (bought my Remora thanks to Bob's advice) to livestock and tank health suggestions. I currently have a 75-gallon reef tank that has been up for about 2 years now. It is my first stab at a saltwater system, so it has been pieced together and expanded as I've researched the hobby. Now it is a plumbing eyesore in my living room and I have convinced my husband that it is a disaster waiting to happen on our hardwood floor and that we need a reef ready tank. <Egads!> Ok... he's tired of looking at the plumbing eyesore as well and has agreed that we can get a 100-gallon reef-ready tank with a nice stained stand and canopy. I was at first looking at downsizing to a 55 reef-ready, but seeing that there are not any used bargains in the Dallas area right now, I've found a very nice 100 at a new LFS that is well-priced considering that I already have a lot of accessories to start with (so my initial new investment would just be the tank/stand/canopy plus I get to sell my 75 with stand on Ebay). I figure that a 100 will also give me room to grow instead of downsize (currently have 100# of LR, 5" sand bed, 2 Banggai, 1 bicolor blenny and 1 mandarin with assorted inverts and soft coral). <Additionally, more water means more stability.> My only haste is that I really need to get some new lighting as my current system needs new bulbs and the fans have stopped working, so the bulbs get REALLY hot and it's not an easy system to fix. But I don't want to sink new lighting costs into a tank that I may be changing soon since that is a fairly significant expense for the whole system. <Agreed.> So, I'd really value your opinion on priorities, or rather my perceived priorities for a new, larger tank. I currently have a 10-gallon tank serving as a refugium, as well as a Remora (not a pro), 4 Maxi Jet 1200's, a Penguin 330 for mechanical filtration when I feel like I need it (extra circulation when I don't) and a NO 40watt (Actinic dusk/dawn on timer), and a 220Watt power compact fixture that I would love to pull out of the fixture to make a retrofit, if that's possible). My priorities so far: 1. Sump/Refugium. Short-term convert my 10-gallon refugium to a sump with my Remora skimmer on it. Long term a combined sump/refugium custom-made by a local guy in our club. He does some AWESOME stuff with acrylic. <Bigger would be better here as well, and you should have the space for something larger in that new stand. You'd almost be better off trying to nail this down so that you can have it installed when you start the 100 up.> 2. Lighting. If I can turn my fixture into a retrofit by extracting the sockets somehow. If not, then sell it cheap and get a retrofit PC kit followed by a couple of MH kits. <Keep in mind, if you had heat problems from lighting before, you will have them ten-fold with metal halides.> Any recommendations on the Icecap series (150? 175? 250?...what's the diff other than wattage? <No difference other than wattage.> HQI really that much better?) <Is a matter of personal opinion - in mine, no, they are equal.> Anyone prefer VHO's? <Nothing wrong with VHO's either but not quite as intense as metal halide. I've used both on the same tank.> If I'm going to do it, then I want to love it in the end, and I can piece-meal various retrofits as needed. 3. A bigger skimmer as I add a couple of fish. I'm primarily concerned with my inhabitant's happiness and health, so I would really rather under stock, as I only want a friendly group (no bullies allowed!). <Good plan.> Thinking of adding a small tang, another mandarin to go with my little girl. <That's a no... one mandarin per 100g is about all that the tank will support.> After the large sump and refugium of course. And more LR.. maybe 3-5 blue Chromis. That's about it. So basically, do any of you have any strong opinions about my order of acquisition/importance for these new items? <No strong opinions, or weak ones for that matter. If money is an issue here, I would concentrate on the tank and various components long before I worried about lighting, especially if you're not trying to keep any corals at the moment. Fish are happy with natural lighting and care not about things like VHO or MH.> Any suggestions or revisions that would save me $$ and trouble with the new system? <Not really... measure twice, cut once... or should I say, plan your dive and dive your plan... something like that.> Any strong opinions about lighting preferences? <All depends on what you want to keep - fish don't need intense lighting so that might affect your plans.> And finally, sump/refugium size. What would be the ideal (other than bigger is better) since you know my stocking philosophy, etc.? <Ahh... you stole my thunder. I was going to say "As large as you can afford." Which is really the correct answer.> Any and all advice, opinions, warnings are greatly appreciated in advance!!! <I think you're on the right track.> Kind regards, Misty <Cheers, J -- > - New System Setup & Filtration - Hi my name is Jeff and I had a question about a new 135 gallon tank I will be receiving in a week. <Hi, my name is JasonC and hopefully I have an answer ;-) > This will be my third tank; my first was a freshwater and my second was a saltwater that was running good until some paint from my wall began falling in. <Bummer.> Anyway I went to my local fish store and they advised me to buy this 40 gallon sump to act as the filter. I left the store confused that day. Does this mean that I don't need to have filter media such as ammonia remover or carbon? <That is correct, although activated carbon is still useful.> And if I don't use those what do I use. <Live rock and live sand.> They were explaining to me that I shouldn't use bio balls; instead I should use live rock and some filter socks to remove large particles of material. <Indeed - read up here, should provide some background: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm > I do have a Fluval 404 from my last tank that I cleaned really well. I am really confused on this topic and could use some help. <Well... the Fluval is a decent filter, but there are other, more natural methods available to you that would give you better filtration.> I also had a question as to what skimmer I should buy. I am looking to buy the best one out there because I know how important this is to a marine setup. <I like the AquaC line, but the Euro-Reef skimmers are also excellent.> I also had one last question about lighting, the tank is 72 inches long, will two 400 watt metal halide, 10K bulbs be enough to support some soft corals and anemones, or should I get two 250 watt lights or maybe go bigger than two 400 watt bulbs? <I wouldn't do more than 400 watt lamps, and additionally you might want to use some caution when lighting soft corals - their lighting needs are typically less than the small-polyp, stony corals. I'd bet you'd do just fine with two 250 watt MH lamps.> Thanks a lot your site has been very helpful to me <Cheers, J -- > Converting fresh to salt >Hello, >>Greetings, Marina here. >I have just changed my fresh water tank into a salt water tank. The tank is 100 litres. Firstly my fish do not live for more than a couple of weeks - although I seem to have all the necessary filters, etc. >>Without knowing MUCH more about how you set it up for salt, your cycling stage, water parameters (I'd need to know salinity, ammonia levels, nitrite, nitrate, and pH to start) there's not much I can really tell you. >Secondly the tank now after 3 months has started to get a brown layer on the sand and the hard corals and on the glass. >>My guess would be a diatom bloom, this occurs in the presence of nutrients without competitors. I will suggest you invest in some good books. Two I will recommend are "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", by Bob Fenner, and "The Marine Aquarium Handbook--Beginner to Breeder", by Martin Moe, Jr. There are MANY, MANY other very good books that will be of great help, too many to list. In the meantime, do use our site's search engine and type "freshwater to marine setup", then read ALL results, follow the links within links, etc. There is MUCH useful information to be found just within our site, including many chapters of the first book I've listed. >Please do suggest what has gone wrong and what I can do... Right now the only fish that is alive is a starfish. >>Eck! And that's not even a real fish, per se! However, it's alive, so all is not lost, eh? Leave things be for now, keep the lighting low and on for only short periods of time. Do get those test readings, read the results from the search I've pointed you towards, and we can move on from there. >Which are the hardy fish that I should start with? >>Right now let's wait on the fish, and get you going with good, USABLE information. Then we'll move on to ensure your tank is properly cycled, and from there we can address what fish will best suit you and your setup. Looking forward to hearing from you soon! Marina Creating A Perfect World... Dear Crew, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> Your input during the process of planning my first marine tank over the past few months has been invaluable. I continue reading voraciously on the subject and had the good fortune to meet Bob and Anthony on their recent visit to Phoenix. <Sounds like a fun time!> My initial questions were related to livestock selection and tank size requirements for creating a life-long home for the critters in my care. I have settled on a 180gal all-glass with dual corner overflows in the standard 72x24x24 size for tanks of this volume. <Love those dimensions! A nice look, no doubt.> The two aspects of setting up my system that remain a bit daunting given my inexperience are plumbing and lighting. The system will contain 200-250lbs of premium select Fiji and select Lalo live rock provided by liveaquaria.com. Any trouble with rock from this source? Given that the tank will need to be cycled and the Fiji rock is "pre cured" using the salt-spray process in use over there would there be trouble finishing curing in my display tank provided circulation and aggressive skimming are adequate? <It can certainly be done in the tank (I've done it this way many times, myself), but I prefer finishing the curing in trash cans or other large containers...More control for you and less risk of high levels of nutrient buildup in the new tank during cycling> My plans have the overflows draining into a roughly 40 gallon plastic sump (Rubbermaid) in the stand. Would these have two drains feeding the sump or would it "T" into a single larger diameter drain prior to entering the sump. <I like the flow and redundancy of two larger diameter drains, myself...Can you do it this way?> The sump will be home to heating equipment and an Aqua-C EV240 skimmer. <A fine choice!> A refugium would be down the road if at all. I feel more comfortable initially managing nitrates through twice-weekly small water changes and diligent husbandry. <Yes! That's my thinking, too!> Any recommendations for a return pump would be helpful-as well as advice on ensuring adequate circulation from the returns. <I like Iwakis- MD70 or higher would be awesome...Or the Dolphin Ampmaster...> The fish I hope to keep are as follows: Volitions lion Harlequin Tusk Purple tang Hippo Tang Flame angel (provided he could avoid the lion in a tank this size) <Risky at best, IMO...I'd pass on the flame with these tankmates, myself> And a flame hawk (same concern as angel given the hawk's bite-sized dimensions) <Agreed> The large fish in the system have me leaning toward a canister filter for additional mechanical filtration of large particulate matter as well. Any brand favorites of the crew would be helpful here. <If I were to use a canister, It would be an Eheim> In this configuration would it be problematic to have the canister after the sump and immediately prior to the return to the display? <Sure...but at that point it would just be doing some "fine polishing", perhaps holding carbon or Poly Filter. I'd use micron filter socks (cleaned/changed religiously) at the end of the standpipes where the water drains from the tank to the sump- that will catch any gross particulate before it reaches the skimmer> Two final thoughts and I will suspend my stream of consciousness ramblings-the livestock list is decidedly dangerous to crustaceans-any clean-up type animals that would stand a chance with this bunch? <Probably none of the usual ones...Unfortunately!> And finally given that I don't intend to keep corals for a while MH lighting is out but what would you recommend as a minimum/attractive lighting setup for keeping heartier species eventually in a tank of this depth? <I like HQI halide pendants, myself- they offer a wide variety of wattage/spectrum choices, and can provide flexibility for the future as your needs change. Check out Sunlight Supply's Reef Optix III's... I like 'em> Thanks so much for your time and dedication-see what happens when I sit down to ask one question? Thanks-Keith <Like nacho chips- can't just eat one, huh? Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Starting Out Right (Pt. III) Thanks again for the help. <Scott F. back with you today!> Have held off buying anything and continuing my research. The tank drilling/sump idea just isn't working out, and I take it from the comments I have read on the site that you would not recommend going with a siphon overflow system for a sump setup. <Agreed, over-the back siphon tubes can be a problem...> I did, however, find a source for live rock (I'm in Argentina, so can't just order online from waltsmith.com), but don't know enough to know whether or not it is workable. This may be a bizarre request, but if you don't mind, take a look at the link below: http://www.mercadolibre.com.ar/jm/item?site=MLA&id=7423430 and tell me if this looks like the real deal, live-rock-wise. (just look at the photos, there are a couple of them). Also say this rock is Lithothamnion, if that means anything to you. <I'm not really sure what that is...Perhaps dilithium crystals?...Maybe it can power a warp drive engine? No- seriously- looks like live rock to me, but I'd find out what they're talking about. You may want to shoot them an email to get more information> If not, I am back to square one, in terms of just going with a wet/dry; skimmer, and BioWheel and/or canister filter. <Hey, if you need to do it that way, it can work...Do any of the WWM sponsors (Live Aquaria, Marine center, etc- ship to Argentina? Do check..> Thanks again. You guys are the best. <Let me know how things progress...Maybe I can offer more guidance as you go...Take care! Regards, Scott F> New Tank, New Problems Hi Bob! <Actually Ryan with you today> My name is Meredith and my daughter just recently celebrated her 4th birthday. She wanted fish like her Uncle John has so we went to Wal - Mart and the Fish Guy (Fish are the only pets that Wal mart sells) showed me several nice tanks and we bought a 2.5 gallon Mini Bow Aquarium. I am a first time 'serious' fish owner. We took home a fantail bubble eyed black moor (Mickey Mouse) and a fantail goldfish (Pluto). Unfortunately Mickey Mouse died one week after putting him in the tank and for no apparent reason. He sunk to the bottom and didn't come back up... Any explanation as to why? <Hundreds, without seeing it. Have you read the FAQs about new tank syndrome? That's a good place to start.> He didn't seem sick. I removed Mickey Mouse and placed Pluto in a temporary bowl while I cleaned the entire tank. I placed the correct amount of drops in for the 2.5 gallon tank. And then set Pluto afloat still inside the bowl so the temperatures of the water could match again. <Good! This should be done each time you acclimate a fish.> This was four days ago and today when my daughter went to feed him she noticed his fins were turned brown. He has brown spots on all of his fins and on his left gill. Please help. I just read that you recommend a ten gallon tank (will get one ASAP!) but can you please help us temporarily so we don't lose another friend. <You didn't mention filtration- are you filtering the water? Is the water stagnate or moving? Many things could be causing this, but you've got to do your best now. A small daily water change of 5% will be of great benefit to his health. You mentioned "drops" but not what type- I assume you mean water conditioner. I would also add a stress coat of some type. Good luck! Ryan> Thank you in advance, Meredith and Chrysta P.S. Should we feed Pluto more than once a day? <Every other day would be best until his condition clears up. All he can eat in 3 minutes.> System Start Up Dear Crew, <Scott F. here tonight!> Your input during the process of planning my first marine tank over the past few months has been invaluable. I continue reading voraciously on the subject and had the good fortune to meet Bob and Anthony on their recent visit to Phoenix. <A fun time, no doubt!> My initial questions were related to livestock selection and tank size requirements for creating a life-long home for the critters in my care. I have settled on a 180gal all-glass with dual corner overflows in the standard 72x24x24 size for tanks of this volume. <I like that dimension, myself> The two aspects of setting up my system that remain a bit daunting given my inexperience are plumbing and lighting. The system will contain 200-250lbs of premium select Fiji and select Lalo live rock provided by http://www.liveaquaria.com - Any trouble with rock from this source? Given that the tank will need to be cycled and the Fiji rock is "pre cured using the salt-spray process in use over there would there be trouble finishing curing in my display tank provided circulation and aggressive skimming are adequate? <Shouldn't be too much of a problem, but it would be optimal if you could finish the curing in some trash cans or other containers to avoid the heavy nutrient buildup> My plans have the overflows draining into a roughly 40 gallon plastic sump (Rubbermaid) in the stand. Would these have two drains feeding the sump or would it "T" into a single larger diameter drain prior to entering the sump. <I like the idea of two separate drains, myself> The sump will be home to heating equipment and an aqua-c ev240 skimmer. A refugium would be down the road if at all. I feel more comfortable initially managing nitrates through twice-weekly small water changes and diligent husbandry. <You're talking my language! A great habit to get into!> Any recommendations for a return pump would be helpful-as well as advice on ensuring adequate circulation from the returns. <I like the Iwaki MD70, and perhaps some SeaSwirls and/or Gemini external pumps for supplemental circulation...> The fish I hope to keep are as follows: Volitions lion Harlequin Tusk Purple tang Hippo Tang Flame angel (provided he could avoid the lion in a tank this size) And a flame hawk (same concern as angel given the hawk's bite-sized dimensions) <Agreed- the lionfish and the Tuskfish can be a potential problem for the Flame Angel...re-think this one> The large fish in the system have me leaning toward a canister filter for additional mechanical filtration of large particulate matter as well. Any brand favorites of the crew would be helpful here. <Actually, I like to use a compartmentalized sump for detritus settling...You may want to use some of the "micron" filter socks for filtration of gross particulate....Be sure to change them often. I like these low tech items! Also, utilize carbon and Poly Filter in all systems...good stuff for nutrient export> In this configuration would it be problematic to have the canister after the sump and immediately prior to the return to the display? <Well, if the intent is to remove particulate, it would work, but if you use a micron sock before the skimmer, like I recommend, then you'd probably be taking out most of the gross particulate first, so the canister would serve more of a "polishing" role> Two final thoughts and I will suspend my stream of consciousness ramblings-the livestock list is decidedly dangerous to crustaceans-any clean-up type animals that would stand a chance with this bunch? <Hmm...I'd say that it would be a rather tough one. There are not too many crustaceans that would work here, IMO> And finally given that I don't intend to keep corals for a while MH lighting is out but what would you recommend as a minimum/attractive lighting setup for keeping heartier species eventually in a tank of this depth? <Well, I'd still consider halides...The reason is that, hobbyists being the crazy humans that we are- at some point, you may get the "reef bug", so you might as well bite the bullet and get a light that offers great aesthetics and the power to grow corals when the need (desire!) arises...Do look into the HQI pendants (I like Reef Optix III's by Sunlight Supply, myself). If you really don't want halides, then you may want to consider compact fluorescents, T5 fluorescents, or other high intensity, efficient light sources...Only $$$ and your imagination would limit your choices here> Thanks so much for your time and dedication-see what happens when I sit down to ask one question? Thanks-Keith <Kind of like chips....You can't just eat one! LOL! Hope that you have a good time working on this new system! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Mid Course Correction (Making Adjustments To An Existing Tank) I started my first saltwater tank shortly after Christmas. It is a 55 gallon Wal-Mart special. I am running two 20-30 gallon hang on the back filters I had from some old freshwater tanks. I have about 2 inches of sand. <Do consider going to 3 inches plus, or reducing to 1/2 inch or less...2 inches is a biological "no man's land", too shallow for complete denitrification, yet too deep to be fully aerobic...> I have never tested anything other than the specific gravity of the water. It has always tested a little high, but all creatures seemed to be thriving, especially the algae. <Understandable. It's quite possible that you have a buildup of nutrients, such as nitrate and phosphate, which may be contributing to the algae problems. This is where water testing for these compounds is helpful> I have to clean the glass every two weeks. I have: 1 Red Scarlet Hermit Crab 10 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crabs 1 Emerald Mithrax Crab (Now Deceased) 1 Sand Sifting Starfish 1 Dwarf Snail (Hitchhiked when I bought Blue Legs) 1 Chromium Fish 5# Fiji live rock 5# Bali live rock (New) 1 Molly Miller Blenny (New) 1 Nemo (New) Percula Clownfish <Hah, Hah...Nemo...> Everything is doing great, with the exception of the dead Crab. It was doing fine until a little over a month ago. It's shell started turning white and I noticed it seemed to be trying to scratch or pull it's shell of with it's pincers. I figured it was trying to molt. The white slowly and continuously got worse. I figure when it died today it was 75% covered in white. I never noticed any abnormalities in it's behavior. I also am not aware of how long it should take them to molt. I called and talked to a technician at Drs. Foster & Smith and they said to start checking the Iodine and Calcium levels and adding as needed. <I was thinking along the same lines...Rather than supplement, though, you may find out that regular small water changes will help provide the "supplementation" that your system needs> When the crab died I had not yet been able to get to a store to buy test kits, iodine, and calcium, therefore I do not know what levels they are currently at. Those items will be next on my list of purchases for my tank though, because the Emerald Crab was one of my favorite creatures thus far and I plan to replace it. I searched and read about sometimes these animals will die when trying to molt. With all this in mind do you feel the crab died while trying to molt, or more likely something else caused it do die? Also, if it died while molting would it have probably died on its own, or did I cause it to die by not checking the iodine and calcium? Also, I would appreciate any other advice you may have. <Well, it's tough to say...But I think that it's a possibility that the crab died as a result of water chemistry issues, or perhaps, even a predator...hard to say. Those water tests will be illuminating, for sure!> I have never tested Nitrates and Nitrites due to fact I have been told in my situation they should be alright. I use tap water and add Chlor- out. I also used live sand and sand together. <Well, tap water has a lot of undesirables in it which can contribute to a number of problems in closed systems...Consider utilizing RO/DI or another purified source> Thanks for your time, MH <Well, you may want to pick up a copy of "The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael Paletta, or Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation"...Both will give you a bunch of solid information that can help you correct a few things and get your system running in top form! Good Luck! Regards, Scott F> - More on Uniquariums - Hi Kevin, Just a follow up note for you. Thank you for answering me BTW. Sorry for making the assumption that everyone knew what a Uniquarium was--I've included the links on both the skimmer and the tank below. <Just checked them out> Let me tell you why I am considering this system. 1) All the equipment that goes into a system and what's good, what's needed and what type is OVERWHELMING to me. I research and research until my eyes are crossed and I'm still right back where I started: confused. (and I'm really not a dummy, I promise). This system comes with everything. Just add LR, LS and H20. <Hehe, don't worry, it's no where near as complicated as you may think.> 2) Okay, lame I know, but....I'm a girl. All this talk of drilling and installation and preventing fires, etc. is also a bit much for me. (I warned you it was a lame reason) Again, just add LR, LS and H20. The guy who gave me the quote quoted me $632 for the Uniquariums (just the tank) (which, judging by the prices shown on the links is a pretty righteous deal!) and quoted competitive pricing on LS, LR, etc., (even the water) and will deliver it to my home and set it up for no additional charge. My hubby would help me with all of this, but honestly, it's not a Corvette so it's not his thing, and I like the thought of someone who does this and marine maintenance for a living helping me set it all up. <That's nice that someone is setting it up for you, but you're missing out on a very important learning experience; exactly how the system works. There's nothing like setting a tank up yourself to learn all the ins and outs of your system.> 3) I admit it. I like aesthetics. This system has a black (or blue) colored back where there is room behind it for all the 'ugly' stuff--heater, pumps, filter, skimmer, etc. And nothing ugly showing or hanging out the back. I mean, it's clean looking--sharp--you know? <Very sharp> So I like that too. The only thing is, as I mentioned before, I want a Berlin set up so I worry about the chemical and bio- filtration in the system (bio balls). I guess I could just remove??? Your thoughts? <There is no need for the bio-balls when installing a live sand bed and live rock> The system will have the Clear for life venturi skimmer (see link) The reason being they are made specially to fit these tanks and the guy uses them pretty much exclusively and says he's never had a problem or seen any problems in all the tanks he maintains. <Looks like you don't have a choice either way, you'd be hard pressed to find another skimmer to fit this particular setup> I am totally open to adding a second skimmer if that is a good idea. I wondered, though, and perhaps you can help me speculate an answer to this: if they are selling a 100 gallon tank, wouldn't that mean that after taking into consideration how much of the tank the equipment behind the colored back takes up you would STILL have a tank that can hold 100gallons? Or could they be selling a tank with 100 gallon dimensions that loses some capacity because of its design? I know--I know, I should have asked but didn't and I know it's a stretch but wondered what you would say. <Check it out for yourself, measure the three internal dimensions of the part that will be holding all the water, multiply them all together and divide by 231 to find out how many gallons the tank will hold.> 4) If there is any way possible to avoid having to have a sump, I am interested. This system eliminates the need for a sump. I have 2 children under 5. 'Nuff said... Taking all of my preferences and shortcomings as well as looking at the system and what it has to offer, what would you advise? <You need a good book, first off, to explain what each piece of equipment does and why (or why not) you need it. If possible, I'd set up this system yourself, but you'll likely need the help of your salesperson, so there may be no getting around it. Just pay close attention and ask millions of questions.> Does this look like a good system for me to buy considering all of the above?? I really like a lot of the features on the system, but I'm not bull headed about anything really (but I'd rather avoid the use of a sump) so I am open to your opinions and advice. Obviously I would like to do it right the first time. One more question: How much LR and LS per gallon is absolutely necessary in a Berlin system IYO? <I recommend a minimum of a 3.5" deep live sand bed, but the rock amount is up to you. I'd say at least a half a pound per gallon, more if you want to fill up a significant portion of the tank.> I read elsewhere on the site that (duh, obviously) the more rock, the more water is displaced and the more the bio-load capacity your tank can support is reduced. So what's the minimum?? <I wouldn't worry too much about overstocking the tank with rock, see what .5 lb per gallon gets you and you can add from there.> Your help is so much appreciated. Thanks!! The links you requested are below: THE SKIMMER: http://www.advanceaquatanks.com/aquaaccvps.html THE UNIQUARIUMS: http://www.myfishtank.com/default.asp?a=unis&tankdesc=17 http://www.advanceaquatanks.com/uniq.html <This setup looks like it will work out fine for you, and I wish you great success with it! -Kevin> Replacing equipment Are you aware of any guidelines by aquarium equipment manufacturers regarding when to change equipment to prevent short circuits, or potential fires? Thank you. Craig <Mmm, yes indeed. Not manufacturers but end-users. All such circuits should be wired through G.F.C.I.s. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gfcimarines.htm Bob Fenner> Tank set up problems >I am setting up a 200 gallon tank in my home. It will be saltwater FOWLR community tank. So far I have washed some sand and added one coral bommie of base rock. The tank has no water in it yet, and one of my cats found the sand. I am not sure, but I think it may have urinated in the sand. >>ROTFLMAO!!!! LOL!!! Cats.. sheesh! >There are definite paw prints and I have since covered the tank. What kind of problems can this produce for me after I ADD water? I was thinking that this may just add to the nitrogen cycle. >>Not exactly recommended, but yes, this much is true. I would also suspect that the cat couldn't have urinated so much that it would have a terribly noticeable effect on a system of that size. LOL!!! >Am I right? What do you suggest? Please help, as I am not about to get rid of my cat. >>Oh no, don't get rid of the cat, mate. I really wouldn't worry about it too much. If you are worried, see if you can find the spot (too bad it's not the clumping sort, eh?) and you can take out that bit, rinse it well and replace. If the cat's on medications, then I would simply remove that bit. He must have had a fun romp in there. LOL! Best of luck! Marina 20 Questions...Nah- just 15! I've been going through the endless info and FAQ's at WWM. It's overwhelming!! <Possibly one of the Seven Wonders of The World...er- well...Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!> So I'm sure that my questions have probably been answered in one form or another, but I'd like to give you a short background on where I'm at, and some questions about what I've got planned. I've had a 55-gallon for several years - live rock, some fish, crabs, snails, a few mushrooms - nothing too flashy. The area under the tank is really cramped, it's been a pain to maintain and keep up the water quality, and none of the mushrooms, polyps, and dusters have ever thrived very well (and eventually they, well, you know.....). The fish, coral banded, snails, and hermits have done OK. I've recently been dealing with a Caulerpa outbreak. It's been sort of frustrating and discouraging. <Well, it's a lot better than an outbreak of cyano, or Bryopsis, or...well- you get the picture!> SO NOW, we're building a new house, and my wife has "agreed" (actually, I don't think I've told her yet) to let me put in a fish room in the basement. It will be a 7' X 11' room behind the aquarium, with the 125-gallon tank being flush-mounted in the wall (as a backdrop to the bar area). I'm looking forward to being able to do it "right" this time. As we'll be moving later this year, I've begun to plan the layout, plumbing, etc. I'm not going to say that money is no object (that's definitely not the case), but I am willing to spend what is necessary to have a set-up that will allow for the best chance of success for the marine life, as well as efficient (and non-discouraging) maintenance. <That's pretty exciting! And it makes a lot of sense to plan for the easy maintenance of an aquarium...Something that we often overlook in our plans!> In planning, I've been reading a lot more on the WWM site. As I said, there's almost too much info! It can get really confusing. One person says this is best, another says this, and well, you know how it is! Anyway, I'm reading The Conscientious Marine Aquarist for a second time to refresh on things (it's even better the second time around, now that I've got some experience). After all the continued reading from books and the web, I have some things I'd like to get your thoughts on regarding my new set-up (see attached diagram). 1.I have spare 29- and 55-gallon tanks sitting on a shelf and am considering using them for the refugium and sump, respectively, on my new 125-gallon set-up. Should I instead use the 55 for the refugium and 29 for the sump? Is that way more refugium than I need? That also may be pushing the necessary capacity of the 29-gallon sump during a power outage. <I'd go with the larger tank as a sump, myself. It adds to the overall water capacity of the system, and gives you that much more flexibility, in terms of protein skimming, an extra area for macroalgae (instead of just in the refugium), etc.> 2.I know the preference for the refugium is above the main tank, but because the bottom of this tank will be 4 feet off the floor (therefore the top of the tank is almost 6 feet high), the refugium would be quite high off the floor for observing, maintaining, etc. Would you still recommend trying to put it up there, or is it good as I have it diagrammed? <Well, what's good and what's practical are often two different things! I'd go with whichever configuration you can most easily configure and maintain> 3.Should refugium (in this configuration) be fed from overflow water (as shown), or a "T" from the clean return water, or does it matter? On Anthony Calfo's hardware schematic, he shows an auxiliary line from the return water to the refugium. I thought maybe the nutrients from the "dirty" water would be beneficial for the refugium. <That's correct- I agree with Anthony that a refugium should be fed with nutrient-laden water from the system. The overflow would be your best bet> 4.Should the overflow from the refugium come in to the sump at the end (just prior to being pumped back in)? Is that sending too much un-skimmed water back to the tank? On the other hand, are you defeating the purpose of getting some refugium food back into the tank if you skim the refugium overflow water? <You could split the incoming water, diverting some to the sump where the skimmer is, and the rest to the refugium...> 5. I considered making the refugium a section of the 55-gallon sump. With everything I've read about the difference in flow rates in the sump vs. refugium, and with the spare 29-gallon tank available anyway, I thought it simpler to keep them separate. Any opinion on doing it either way? <I think that you could do it that way, and it would work fine> 6.The 29- and 55-gallon tanks are currently not drilled. Would you recommend drilling the sump tank for an external pump (as I've diagrammed) vs. getting a submersible pump? I know a lot of people aren't real high on submersibles. <I really like external pumps, myself- particularly because they are easier to maintain, probably give off less heat than comparable submersible pumps, and there are many, more reliable external models available> 7.Could the overflow for the refugium be drilled low, then put in a PVC elbow/standpipe inside at the desired height for overflow? Seems like once it's drilled nearer the top, you're limited on adjusting your water depth if you ever want to. <That is true. I suppose that you could add an elbow/standpipe, but I am concerned about the potential for clogging, "slurping", and possible overflows during power failure...I'd do it the "inflexible", yet more reliable way...> 8.Whether drilling for an overflow, or for an external pump, what size hole should I have? I was considering 2", as I can always use a reducing bushing to get smaller (it's kinda hard to make a small hole larger). <Agreed, I'd always favor the flexibility that a larger hole provides. As you surmised, you could always reduce it with a bushing...> 9.People talk about PC fluorescents for the macroalgae in the refugium. Are they simply bulbs like you would get for your house at Home Depot? No special "daylight" or "actinic", etc.? <I prefer to use a one-to-one ratio of daylight to actinic. Sure, there are some off-the-shelf multipurpose compact fluorescents out there. I am a "purist" (and tend to spend too much for stuff, anyways); and I generally use fixtures designed for aquarium use.> 10. I'm going to make some sort of surge device (seen several good-looking homemade designs). Again on Anthony Calfo's drawing, he shows all of the return water going to the surge, then to the tank (maybe that's just for schematic purposes). Can (or should) all of the return water go through the surge device, or should there also be some "constant" flow into the tank, with just part of the return water going to the surge device? <I'd want some continuous flow in the tank, even with the presence of a surge device...> 11. As long as I'm referring to Calfo's drawing, he shows the water being pre-filtered prior to skimming. I've heard opinions that raw water is best for skimming, and then run it through a filter pad or foam. Either way OK? <Well, Anthony's diagram refers to a more "biological prefilter" (like the waaay cool aiptasia "scrubber", or an algal filter in this area. The idea is to remove some of the gross particulate matter before it can get into the skimmer. I suppose that you could use pads, but they will need to be cleaned and/or replaced regularly to avoid becoming a nutrient trap of sorts..> 12.Also on skimming, I've got a brand new AquaClear 150 in-sump skimmer rated at 600 gph. Is this a decent skimmer, and is it enough considering the macro algae refugium? <Not familiar with this brand (are you sure that you didn't mean to write "Aqua C"?), but if it can pull a couple of cups of dark, stinky skimmate per week, it's a winner in my book!> 13.He also shows a hole in the sump for "overflow for automatic water change or emergency". If your sump is large enough to handle the volume in a power outage, is this necessary? <Probably not.> And how does this work for "automatic water change" - is the hole low enough to let the backflow run out of the sump when you stop the pump? <It could be, if you want it there...your call on that> 14. I'm just starting to review WWM regarding Ca reactors. I've never had one, but with all I've read, I am considering adding one in the new set-up. How would a Ca reactor best be tied in to my layout? Should it be fed with overflow water from the tank or clean (return) water? Does the water coming from the reactor get added to the sump before or after the skimmer? <Many, many ways to configure this. Way to many to go into detail here! I'd really pour over the FAQs to get some good ideas, or talk to your fellow hobbyists on the WWM chat Forum....> 15. About how often do you need to refill the CO2 bottle, and where do you do that? <Well, that depends on the rate that is required to create the conditions that you require. On the average, the CO2 seems to last anywhere between 8 -12 months...But that can vary from system to system...no hard number here> I greatly appreciate all of the knowledge and experience that you have with this art form, and your ability to put it in understandable, non-intimidating terms. Gotta go.....I need to get back to TCMA......I mean work. I've got to get back to work. Thanks! Bob Dusin <Glad to be of service, Bob. Sorry that I couldn't be more specific on some of this stuff, but there are tons of possible answers here. You can do a lot more research on this stuff on the WWM site! Good luck with your plans! Regards, Scott F> - One o' dem Saltwater Fish Tanks - Hello, I am venturing into keeping marine fish and have a general idea of a tank setup that I think would be good, but I wanted to run it by y'all and see what you thought. <Sure!> I recently bought a 55 gal tank w/ iron stand that appears to have room for another 55 gal tank beneath it. My idea was to use the top tank as fish-only and use the bottom tank for a combination of things... I have designed my own simple filtration system w/ protein skimmer and biomedia that will fit into about 8-10 inches (of the 48 inches) of the bottom tank and would be fed from the overflow off the top tank. I would separate this area from a second section that would act as a copepod refugium (w/ plenty of live rock) and further be home to red mangroves (to reduce nitrate levels). <The mangroves would have to be in the top tank since they grow pretty big.> This section would probably take up about 12 inches in the bottom tank (maybe more), leaving about 28-30 inches for a reef/mandarin dragonet/seahorse tank. I was hoping that the copepod refuge section would be good enough to feed the mandarin as well as keep the population size good. <You'd really need to have quite the pod orgy in there to sustain a mandarin. Tank raised seahorses would be cool, just make sure that you do TONS of research on them before attempting. Check out seahorse.org.> Also, on the bottom tank I would use lighting that would promote the growth of algae for copepod food. In addition to just a sump-type filtration, I would also use a HOT canister filter (300 GPH I think) on the top tank. Would this setup be reasonable/do you have any suggestions? <I think the canister filter would be an unnecessary detritus trap. The setup sounds fine provided that you don't attempt a mandarin, you use a good protein skimmer, and don't use any bio-media in the filter because of all the live rock that you'll have in both of the tanks. Let us know how it goes! -Kevin> Thank you, Joe Starting Out Right! Hi guys, <Scott F. with you today!> The website is fantastic, and has already saved me making a number of mistakes, and I haven't even bought the tank yet! No doubt countless fish have been saved. <That's great to hear! We're proud to be helpful to you> Anyway, have been studying your site every nite now for a while and think I am ready to get started. Going to buy a 75g tank (marine, fish only) this week and hoping you can help me with a "few" questions. <Sure- that's why we're here!> First, I live in Argentina, so my choices of products/systems are limited, and my LFS is not incredibly helpful (mostly a language thing), so you guys are it, if you are willing. As you will see from my questions, I am a total rookie when it comes to marine set ups. <Hey- we're all still learning every day!> (btw, I really have tried to search the site in detail first to find answers, and apologies if I should have found them. Many of these questions are more reconfirming what I think I have read. There is soo much info on the site it can get a little overwhelming). <Yep- but it is also addicting! LOL> Substrate: Still searching, but looks like my only option is this crushed coral looking stuff they sell at the LFS. Have read through all the articles and still not clear on what would make the most sense (75g, FO), DSB, assuming I can find aragonite sand (I think I read it is fairly common and can be found at Home Depot-like stores?), or .5 to 1 inch of this coarse (looks like about 2mm) coral/gravel over an UGF system? <If you're going to use a UGF (and I'd encourage you not to), you'd need to use a deeper layer of substrate over the plates> Also, the fish person at the LFS also talked about (if I understood her with my Spanglish) a layer of sand under the crushed coral/gravel. I am assuming from what I read on the site this is a definite no no (mixing grades of substrate), right? <Well, there are a lot of schools of thought on this. In "static" deep sand beds, their are proponents of mixed grades and homogenous grading. I like a uniform sand grain size, myself> Filtration: On the assumption I am going with crushed coral/gravel with reverse flow UGF, have read all of the articles and most of the FAQs and here is what I am thinking/need your advice on: Penguin 330 BioWheel (will maintain religiously. I use one my tropical setup). I would prefer to go with your live rock/sand setup, but cannot find it here. Seems like my best bet for a lot of the bio filtration, unless you have other suggestions. <Well, if you're going fish only, I'd consider a wet-dry system. Normally, I'm a big fan of live rock and sump setups, but if the availability of live rock is non-existent, this may be a better way to go. My thinking is that it will give you more long-term flexibility. There are many available, and lots of etailers do offer international shipping> An AquaC skimmer. Will be a bit of a hassle to get it shipped here, but sounds like something I should not be without. <I agree wholeheartedly! A skimmer is vital to success in marine systems!> O.K. to have a fishless tank up and running/cycling without it for a couple of weeks, or should I wait? <Personally, I'd cycle without fishes...You can use some live rock (if you can find some) or sand from an established, healthy marine system, and add a pinch of dry or frozen food to help "feed" the cycle and provide an ammonia source> I can also get Eheim filters here. They are pricey, but will fork it over if it will keep the fish healthier. I plan to keep the bio load down as much a possible. <A good strategy!> Eventually 4 or 5 very small to medium size fish (my next round of questions if you are still speaking to me). <Hah! Of course I will!> The Eheims available are 2026; 2228; 2227 wet/dry; and 2229 w/d. The price difference between the cheapest and the most expensive is about $100. Standard canister or wet/dry? Bigger always better, right? <With mechanical filtration- bigger IS better, IMO! However, when you're using mechanical filtration, regular media cleaning and replacement is vital, as they will become a "nutrient trap" if detritus and organic material is allowed to accumulate within them. Frankly, I would use a smaller Eheim as a supplemental mechanical filter. I really would encourage you to try a sump or wet-dry filter, and simply use the Eheim if you feel more comfortable> If this is overkill, or if you think I should skip the BioWheel and just get the biggest Eheim, let me know. <Consider a sump or wet/dry, as mentioned above!> Under gravel filter with two large power heads (reverse flow). I read in Bob's article on substrates (point 7) that the preference is to pull the water up through the plates, "after the water has passed through the particulate and chemical filtrants of the outside filter." This may show my utter stupidity, but isn't the idea here that you are pulling water up from under the plates up into the tank, where the mechanical/chemical filter can then filter it? <Well, actually, the bacteria within the substrate are doing the work. How can this water, being pulled from under the plates and blown out the top of the pump first be filtered by another system? <Well, this may not be applicable to a reverse flow UGF system> Assuming a UGF makes sense with the proposed set-up, was wondering should the outflows be pointed lengthwise in the tank at opposite ends, or facing front, or does it matter? (sorry if this is an exceptionally dumb question). <Not dumb- I'd point them at the opposite ends...> My plan is to set up the tank and let it cycle for several weeks before stocking it. Couple of questions: Water: From what I have read, seems like the most reasonable approach is to mix up the 75 gallons and let it sit for a week or so to let all of the various nasties dissipate. <Well, you'd probably want to aerate it, too. Start with good quality source water, like RO/DI, and you'll be light-years ahead of where you'd be if you just use tap water> Since I won't be putting anything living in the tank for a while, my plan was to do the initial mix right in the tank, and then buy a 10g trash can/lid to premix for my weekly 10% water changes. Does this make sense? <Sure> How important is it to put some sort of mixing/filtering equipment in the trash can set up for the partial water changes? I live in an apartment, so it will be fairly easy to mix and store the water in a closet, but a pain to have it hooked up and running a power head/filter. <Well, with smaller (5% of tank volume) twice weekly water changes, like I favor, you'll probably have an easier time aerating it?> Cycling: Don't want to torture fish, don't think bacteria in a bottle is available, don't know anyone other than the LFS with a tank I could steal some used media/substrates, would you consider it, in general, risky to get used substrate from the LFS? Seems like a pretty clean operation (like I would know), but didn't find a mention anywhere for getting used substrate from the LFS. <Well, it is a calculated risk, if you don't know the source of your substrate, you'd probably want to "kick start" your system with the "bacteria in a bottle"> I am assuming from what I have read that it will help advance the cycling process to skip the water changes until shortly before I am ready to begin stocking? <Well, you would not actually conduct your first water change until you've actually completed the cycle. Changing water while cycling the tank will simply delay the process from being completed> I read that I should have all systems up and running for the first week to make sure everything works properly, but should the UGF, BioWheel, Skimmer, Eheim all be running 24/7 during cycling, or will this slow things down? <If you are going to go this route (and you can tell I'm trying my best to steer you in a different direction), you should fire up everything while cycling! Thanks again (from me and the fishes I will not have killed) for the incredible site, and for being so generous with your time. Jim Phillips <A pleasure, Jim! I do hope you look into simple sump-based or wet-dry systems instead of all of the other filters that you're considering. A simple, well thought out sump with a good protein skimmer will really out-perform those other devices, IMO- and save you money, in the long run...Keep researching these techniques on the WWM site. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Starting Out Right (Part II) Thank Scott! <Hello again!> Very helpful. <Glad to hear it!> A couple of quick follow-ups if you don't mind. <Sure> I have thought about a sump, but am frankly pretty intimidated. I am no plumber, or engineer, and from reading the FAQs (could not find an article on your site or anywhere else about how to set up a sump) afraid I just don't have the skills/know-how to properly set it up and maintain it. <Believe me, I consider myself "DIY challenged", so I can relate. However, if you use quality components, and assemble a pump/overflow/sump that is properly sized to work for your tank, the actual "plumbing" is really easy...> Second, my tank is not drilled so would have to use a siphon overflow, which I think from what I read is sub-optimal, and greatly increases this risks of some sort of "mishap." <Very true. However, many aquarium manufacturers can drill the thank for you, and fabricate your overflow to fit the tank...See if your LFS can order a tank this way> If muster the courage to try and set-up/maintain a sump pump (and can find the room), what would you recommend? I did a little e-tailer searching and saw a Berlin Pump at Marine Depot that looks relatively straightforward. <I've seen this one- it is just fine! Marine Depot is a good company to do business with, IME. They can help you size components to fit your tank, too.> Any thoughts (other than building myself, as this is certainly beyond my capabilities - sorry to sound so dumb). <Believe me, it's not dumb! Although, after a period of time in this hobby, you'll be surprised at how quickly you amass skills for things that you never thought you could do! Anthony only have jokingly asserts that he was going to title his "Book of Coral Propagation" (a "must read", BTW- just buy a copy- trust me!) the humorous but quite accurate "How To Be A Plumber"! You WILL learn this stuff, become comfortable with it, and feel pretty good about yourself! Really!> Assuming I chicken out, do I read you right that the way to go is a wet/dry filter, protein skimmer, and some powerheads for water circulation, and no UGF or BioWheel? <Yep- I really like a wet-dry for a FO tank, or even just a basic sump; either with a protein skimmer. You really won't need all of the other gadgets. A good sump with a replaceable prefilter material, carbon, and a good protein skimmer will do the trick...Simple and efficient!> I also gather anything but an Eheim for the w/d. Is there one or two you would recommend? <Don't get me wrong. The Eheim is a find product. I just think that you will be much happier in the long-run by going with a sump system. It may be a bit more scary, and a bit more expensive...But it's really the way to go!> Sorry if this is confusing. Just trying to figure out a setup that I can start out with that me and the little ones can enjoy and that creates a healthy environment for the fish ( 4 or 5 small to medium in a 75g FO) while I learn plumbing/marine engineering/advanced biochemistry :o) Thanks again. <I can sympathize! Much to learn! But, if you review the many resources on the WWM site, get some good help from the LFS or other hobbyists on the 'net, you'll enjoy a tank more successful than you could imagine! Good luck, and let us know how things go! Feel free to contact us again any time! Regards, Scott F> Big Tank With Big Plans! I am in the process of setting up a 1,500 gallon reef system and I had a few questions as far as your opinions. First, there is 1,600 pounds of live rock in the tank that is going through the curing process right now, and the tank will be filtered by 2 sumps, one 40 gallon with PolyFilter and a small amount of carbon while the other sump is 150 gallons. This sump is what my main questions are about. I was considering using natural means of filtration by making a 10 inch live sand bed and growing macro under NO fluorescents. Would it still be wise to lay some sort of crate down to ensure the anaerobic bacteria are not disturbed, or should I be all right since it is out of the main tank? <Personally, I would not go any deeper than say, 6-8 inches. There may be a point where further depth is of little functional consequence, and the potential for possible problems is greater than any benefit that you may derive...That's my personal opinion, of course- so do proceed as you feel comfortable. I would not worry about laying down any barrier in a sand bed that deep> Also, I am familiar with the process of mass die off of the macro algae, but I was wondering if that was just from not harvesting the algae out of the tank and it getting to crowded? Or are there other factors that cause this problem. <Well, in a nutshell, not harvesting it regularly is one of the factors...Really depends on species. I'm a huge fan of Chaetomorpha. It's got a lot going for it: It's amazingly hardy, grows rapidly, does not "go sexual", and excels at nutrient consumption. If harvested regularly, it is an awesome nutrient export vehicle! Also, you simply "float" it in the sump, as it does not need to be "planted"...A keeper!> I am also debating on a skimmer, every reef I have set up before has always had a skimmer, but the owner of the tank is concerned that the skimmer is going to skim out the organisms that the 150 sump will be supplying to the tank. I figure if it is plumbed ahead of the sump instead of right before the return, than there wouldn't be a problem. <I agree with you. A skimmer really should be placed in a location within the system where it receives "raw", unprocessed water from the overflow or intakes, so it will efficiently do its job. As far as the skimmer damaging organisms, such as plankton; I personally feel that people need to "lighten up" about this! Really! The amount of "collateral damage" to organisms as a result of skimming is just sooo insignificant when compared to the benefits of skimming that it simply is not an acceptable trade off. Besides, I have yet to see a "devastating" loss of refugium life forms caused by skimming...I'm not an aquatic engineer, or a scientist, but In my opinion (I cannot stress that enough!), in the average system, the degree of "plankton sheer" caused by equipment is of no consequence! I am also concerned about there being a huge algae problem in the main tank if no skimmer is used. <Well, it could happen...A skimmer, as you know, is one of your best nutrient export vehicles, and to run a system without one is potentially problematic. I think that a properly sized, well-adjusted skimmer is vital to success in a captive system.> The last question is about the lighting. I believe the tank is close to 15 feet long and somewhere around 3 1/2 feet deep. The lighting will consist of 6 400 halides, 2 250 halides and 8 96watt power compacts (all actinic) should this be sufficient? <Well, it depends on what types of invertebrates the owner is planning on keeping. If it were me, and I were investing the kind of money and effort that seems to be going into this project, I'd go exclusively with 8 400-watt halides, supplemented with the PC's. More flexibility, and easier to maintain (in other words, it's much easier to order 8 400 watt bulbs than to order 6 400s and 2 250's when replacement time comes...).Also, you won't have to worry about any variations in the light intensity in different parts of the tank caused by different bulb wattages...> Thanks for any help you can give me, I apologize for the length. <Hey, that's why we're here! Hope that my views and input are valuable to you in some way- if for no other reason than to cement your rationale for proceeding in the original manner that you anticipated! LOL> You guys are great thanks again. Matt Tyree <Thanks for contacting us! I think our WWM readers would really like to see photos of this tank once it's up and running! Regards, Scott F> Doin' It Right From The Start! I have read many of the
articles in your site and appreciate the responses I have received from
your staff. <Glad that you've found them useful! Scott F. here
today> This is my intended setup: 90 gallon 1.porcupine puffer
2.picasso trigger 3.scopas tang 4.undularis angel 5.pinkface wrasse
6.maybe some Dottybacks This collection could change but I know I want
the first three. <Honestly...This is too many messy-eating and
potentially large fishes for a 90 gallon tank. Do narrow it down to a
few of these- and then only for a year or so...These fishes will
grow...quicker than you think, too!> SKIMMER My biggest concern is
the skimmer. I have been planning on getting an overflow drilled in my
tank, but the prices the manufacturers charge is just to much. What is
an efficient skimmer that wouldn't be monstrous as a hang on? Do
any of the Prizm skimmers qualify? <If you're gonna use a
hang-on unit, I'd look into the Aqua C Remora Pro, maybe one of the
Tunze skimmers, and, perhaps, the CPR Bak-Pak (although this unit may
be a bit under-powered for this sized tank. If it were me- I'd
consider saving the money, delaying the completion of the project a
while, and having the tank drilled...You'll thank yourself later
when you see the flexibility and aesthetic advantage that a drilled
overflow/sump system gives you...> FILTRATION Since I am not
planning on using a sump I am planning on using the Tetratec power
filters, because of the added convenience of placing the heaters
inside. The company rates the 300 gph for up to 60 gallons, so I was
planning on using two with heater capsules in each one. What do you
think? <That will be okay...Remember, if you're going to rely on
mechanical filtration, it's mandatory to engage in aggressive
maintenance/replacement of the filter media...Honestly, if you could
hang on just a bit longer, and save up the $$$, you could do a very
simple sump system (using an aquarium or Rubbermaid container). Do a
little reading on the WWM site for information on these systems and how
to construct them...You could locate your skimmer in the sump, add some
activated carbon and/or Poly Filter, a lighted section for
macroalgae...and your set!> Thank you for all of the help, James
<Good luck, James! Have fun with this project!>
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