Finished Project, Example for others 5/21/08 Bob, Scott V. & Eric R <Hello Mark, Scott V. with you.> I just wanted to send a final note of thanks to the three of you. You have all contributed to this project over the last 8 months or so in various ways. It all started with a sump design and progressed into modifying the tank for a closed loop and increasing the drain size to 1.5” for a standpipe with a wye, instead of an elbow for clearance. Eric most recently helped me solve a temperature issue with the lighting causing the tank to heat up. Installing 2 fans over the lights venting through the top made that problem go away. <Great, I will let him know!> All of these ideas and suggestions and also reading many FAQ’s contributed to a successful project that I’m very proud of. <Awesome to hear!> I am including a few photos for posting which may help others with their projects. Most of the FAQ’s for closed loops deal with glass aquariums. This one is an acrylic 90 gal reef ready that I had to drill for the closed loop. I know that having these pictures would have helped me so I’m hoping that you can post for others. The 30x18x18 sump is a copy of one I found on the web, and was made for less than $125 in acrylic and glue. <Nice, the way to go, build your own.> I designed the cabinet, and with the help of my neighbor and his tools, we built this from scratch. The cabinet faces and doors are Hickory and the rest is Oak veneer plywood and Oak crown molding. The door handles are sea horses that I found at Lowes….my wife thinks they’re over the top…I think they’re cool! <Me too!> Thanks again for all the hard work and effort you put into WWM. I could not have done this without all your valuable help. Mark <You are welcome Mark. Thank you for updating us on your project. It is always nice to see someone have a DIY project come out so nice! Enjoy the new setup, Scott V.>

Finished Project, Example for others 5/21/08 (EricR's Response – Thanks Scott!) – 05/23/08 Bob, Scott V. & Eric R <Hello Mark, Scott V. with you.> I just wanted to send a final note of thanks to the three of you. You have all contributed to this project over the last 8 months or so in various ways. It all started with a sump design and progressed into modifying the tank for a closed loop and increasing the drain size to 1.5” for a standpipe with a wye, instead of an elbow for clearance. Eric most recently helped me solve a temperature issue with the lighting causing the tank to heat up. Installing 2 fans over the lights venting through the top made that problem go away. <Great, I will let him know!> All of these ideas and suggestions and also reading many FAQ’s contributed to a successful project that I’m very proud of. <Awesome to hear!> I am including a few photos for posting which may help others with their projects. Most of the FAQ’s for closed loops deal with glass aquariums. This one is an acrylic 90 gal reef ready that I had to drill for the closed loop. I know that having these pictures would have helped me so I’m hoping that you can post for others. The 30x18x18 sump is a copy of one I found on the web, and was made for less than $125 in acrylic and glue. <Nice, the way to go, build your own.> I designed the cabinet, and with the help of my neighbor and his tools, we built this from scratch. The cabinet faces and doors are Hickory and the rest is Oak veneer plywood and Oak crown molding. The door handles are sea horses that I found at Lowes….my wife thinks they’re over the top…I think they’re cool! <Me too!> Thanks again for all the hard work and effort you put into WWM. I could not have done this without all your valuable help. Mark <You are welcome Mark. Thank you for updating us on your project. It is always nice to see someone have a DIY project come out so nice! Enjoy the new setup, Scott V.> <<Mark, the system looks fantastic (I really like the Hickory wood), I think you’ve done an excellent job. I like the clean look of your plumbing, and the cabinet/woodwork really shows some talent too! Be chatting, Eric Russell>>

New Tank Setup Questions 4/20/08
Hello there,
<Hello Mick!>
I can speak for many people that your website is a great source for people like me.
<Awesome, thank you!!>
I have decided to finally upgrade my aquarium setup, after 3 years of caring for a 35 gallon fish only tank. I am getting a 100 gallon tank.
<A nice upgrade.>
It is pre-drilled with a 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return. I know you would recommend going with a larger size drain hole...this tank is on sale at a local fish store.
<Ok, it can work so long as you know of the flow restrictions through the overflow.>
My plan is to start with a fish only setup with live rock, and eventually move up to some easy to care for corals. The end goal is to have a beautiful reef tank some day.
<Nice plan, I'm sure you will have a beautiful tank in time.>
I plan to have a refugium sump in the stand. My first question is what size pump should I use?
<Something around 300 gph or so at your head pressure, add about 150 gph to that if you plan to use the ¾” as a drain also.>
I have read that with a refugium, the flow rate should be moderate and not too fast.
<Your flow will be fine with the limitations of the overflow.>
I plan to install some powerheads in the display tank for additional circulation. Would a Mag 7 do?
<A Mag 7 will be close by the time plumbing and head pressure is accounted for. Do put a ball valve on the output in case you need to throttle it back a bit.>
I never have a drilled tank before now. Everything I have so far is hang-on type of equipment. My concern is having a mini pond in my living room.
<A valid concern/warning.>
Should I use a ball valve and a check valve at the pump return line?
<A ball valve yes. Check valves should not be relied upon to prevent flooding, they will eventually fail. Placing your return high up in the tank to minimize how much water returns to the sump in a power outage is a far better way to go.>
What type of valve should I have for the drain?
<Absolutely none, you want the drain to be completely unrestricted.>
What additional precautions should I consider?
<Pump flow mostly, along with return placement.>
Lastly, I plan to install some T5 retrofits into the canopy. The canopy is acrylic. Is it possible to install retrofits into an acrylic canopy?
<Yes.>
I read many of the retrofits manuals, but they all pertain to wood canopy. Do you know of some technique to mount retrofits to acrylic?
<It is a bit tougher. You can drill straight through the canopy and put a washer and a nut on the topside. If you are mechanically inclined you can drill the canopy and tap it for machine screws to hold your light. Either way you may need to stiffen the top up a bit, depending on the acrylic thickness. Another option is to build a set of legs, much like a remanufactured fixture, to hold the retrofit off the top of the tank. With any of these methods be sure to leave yourself a little room between the canopy and lighting fixture (use spacers) to allow heat dissipation.>
Thank you very much for your time,
Mick
<Welcome to reefing!! Scott V.>

Re: 2 questions, New Marine Setup 4/17/08
Thanks for the help.
<Welcome>
I went out and purchased a Remora Pro. It keeps filling up every couple hours or so with almost clear water, is this normal during the break in period?
<Yes, might want to move the cup up as high as it goes if you have not already. If this continues to for more that a couple days I highly recommend contacting Aqua-C, they have really great customer service.>
Also, should I still hook up one of my Emperors to use for mechanical filtration? Or is it not necessary to have mechanical filtration?
<The problem with mechanical filtration like the Emperors is that they do not remove the materials from the water column, leaving them there to decay and add nitrates back into the system. You could run them without media for added water movement and add poly-filters or carbon if needed.>
Thanks
Marc
<Chris>

Salt Water Fish Aquarium... nec. gear?  What, no books?  03/14/2008
Wet Web Crew,
<<Good Evening Darby, Andrew here>>
Can you please tell me what i need to start up my 125 gallon salt water fish aquarium. I have a new Undergravel filter with 4 powerheads. I also have a built in wet dry filter. What else would you suggest.
<<I would leave off the under gravel filter, don't see a need in using it. Use the powerheads to create the tanks circulation. Of course, budget is the key here, so all i can do is provide the types, and not specifics.
1) Sand - Aragonite sugar grade reef sand - 1 Lb per gallon
2) Live Rock - 1 Lb per gallon
3) Protein Skimmer - Rated a little above your tank size
4) Lighting - this will depend on what you have in there...fish only or corals
5) Heater...2 x 200w heaters
6) Hydrometer or Refractometer - Ideally the later
7) Test kits for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate at a minimum. If this is a reef, then you also need at least Calcium, Alk and Mag.
8) Depending on the flow rate of your powerheads and type of system, you want, you flow can range from 1250 GPH for a fish only tank, or 3125 GPH or more if this is a reef
9) RO Unit or RO/DI - This is used to create the pure water which is the best thing to use for a marine system, and not use tap water
10) Thermometer - Either the probe or the glass type, not the stick on ones as they will give false readings
11) Then misc items like nets etc etc>>
Thank you for your time. Darby Woody
<<Hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Tank Setup 2/27/08
Hello Crew,
<Hello.>
Let me start by saying I am practically brand new to the saltwater tank hobby as well as your forum. I have read about 10 hours of info between your forum and About.com. Both are amazingly informational and your knowledge and patience in questions is much appreciated. I am a firefighter/paramedic and I am starting to think this hobby is more difficult to learn than all my medical training!
<It can seem that way sometimes.>
So now to my question. I have purchased a 90 gal tank from the classifieds. It came with a whole box of things due to a divorce sale. With that in mind, the woman selling it had no information on the things she was selling. It has an Eheim 2228 and has the same media your forum has recommended. It also has two "Powerhead 3/1" as well. Also included is a Primo Multi-Filter 85 gph.
<OK>
I plan to puts lots of Live Rock due to its obvious benefit and ease of attaining since I live next to the ocean and dive frequently.
<Sounds good.>
I have read places that gph is important. Is this only for water movement?
<For the most part yes. You do need some water moving through your filtration, but not all the flow in your tank needs to come from this.>
Do the powerheads count towards this number?
<Yes they do.>
Is there anywhere I can go via the web to see how to physically set up the Eheim filter since it is in parts with no user manual?
<These are nice filters, though not known for the world’s greatest instructions. Some can be found here: http://www.brooklands.co.nz/eheim/manuel.htm >
Should I use the small Primo filter in addition to the Eheim?
<I would not use both, there will be no benefit and more maintenance. Beware that either filter will need to be cleaned frequently (once a week or so) to prevent detritus accumulation. Also, you do not mention a protein skimmer, this is a worthwhile addition to any marine tank.>
What do you recommend for a beautiful sand looking bottom?
<A fine aragonite sand.>
Can/should I mix live/dead sand?
<If you can obtain true live sand, not the wet stuff in a bag (a waste of money in my opinion), they I would mix it in. If you have a friend with a tank that can give you some sand from an existing system this can be used to seed the rest of your sand. Otherwise the sand will populate from the liverock.>
What do I use to keep the rock off the bottom as stated in articles to keep maximum live rock alive?
<You can build a PVC frame to hold the rock if you wish, otherwise I would just rest the rock directly on the bottom and then add your sand; this will create a stable base. Rock die off is not really an issue doing this.>
Sorry for so many questions! I hope I have not surpassed my allotted amount. Your patience is appreciated.
Scott
<No problem, welcome to the hobby! Scott V.>

Re: Tank Setup 2/28/08
Very helpful information! Thanks again.
<Welcome.>
One last question... Is the protein skimmer very important if I plan to have live fish/rock and maybe soft corals?
<In my opinion the most important filtration for any marine tank.>
What would/could happen if I don’t?
<You will have a poor water quality as compared to with a skimmer. They are not required equipment; they just make things much easier. Check out the link below with all related FAQ/articles for more. Keep reading, much to learn, posted many places. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/toskimornotfaq.htm

SW set-up reading, netspeak disdain    2/5/08
All your information is of great help so here is a run down of my soon to be purchases roughly 20 lbs of live rock live sand nova extreme T5 with lunar light 96 watts two lunar lights 2 Koralia nano pumps sea clone 100 skimmer
<... for what size, sort of system? Livestock assortment?>
or nano fission skimmer. If necessary I have a magnum pro canister filter I could run on the tank. If it takes me awhile to get the light a standard plant light would be effective with just live rock and sand until I get corals then the upgraded light would be necessary. Also if you could recommend a good book on this subject. Thank u
<... u? Need to read up a bit... For a preview of what might serve, see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/yorlibfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Questions… A Survey   11/5/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Joe, Mich here.>
I am writing a research paper on the start up of a marine aquarium for beginners. I would greatly appreciate it, if one or more of your marine experts could take a few minutes to briefly answer these ten questions. This is for a college course in research papers and no names will be used in it.
If you would like a copy of the article for any reason please let me know. I realize that this is an imposition and that you are very busy, however as a passionate marine hobbyist myself I chose one of my favorite subjects to write about. Thank you for your time, understanding and expertise. Please feel free to forward this to anyone who might take a moment to answer these brief questions. Or, if you can, please post it on the site, the more answers I get the better! My site name is espressoforme. Thanks for your help and for having such a wonderful site for those of us who love the hobby.
Thanks,
<Welcome! Mich>
Joe
Joe Lupo
jelupo@comcast.net
Questions for Joseph Lupo's research paper. Please answer each question, if you don't have an opinion on something just leave it blank.
1. What is the single biggest error you find that first time marine aquarists make?
<Going too fast.>
2. What size tank is the minimum you would recommend for first time marine aquarists?
<Really depends, though bigger is more stable.>
3. Do recommend that a protein skimmer be among the first purchases that is made for a new set-up?
<Absolutely.>
4. Would you recommend a new aquarist using fully cured live rock in their tank, once it has cycled?
<Without question.>
5. What investment in terms of dollars per gallon do you feel that a new marine aquarist should plan on spending on the full setup? Tank, filter equipment, plumbing, pumps, sand and or rock, lighting, etc., excluding livestock (In other words a 100 gallon set-up at $10.00 per gallon would be $1,000.
<Really many variables here as well.>
6. What is your recommended method for cycling a new tank?
<Well not damsels!!!!! Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm >
7. Assuming a community tank, what would be the first few fish you would recommend for someone new to the hobby?
<Again all depends on the wants and desires of the aquarist.>
8. What tests do you recommend making on a regular basis?
<In the beginning nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia would be the big three as far as water chemistry goes, but obviously temperature should be check once or more a day... salinity, pH, dKH, and calcium are also quite important.>
9. What percentage of the original budget should be spent on lighting, assuming FOWLR tank?
<FOWLR needs minimal lighting.>
10. What type of filtration do you recommend a new hobbyist should start with?
<A refugium if possible.>
Thank you very much for your time!
<Welcome! Mich>
All of your responses will remain confidential and your personal information will not appear in the paper.
Joseph E. Lupo
<Ahh, I see a Lehigh Valley exchange... What school are you attending? Mich who used to be "living here in Allentown..." and is a proud Muhlenberg College Alum and also remembers a Ken who was associated with Muhlenberg with your last name.>
jelupo@comcast.net

New tank setup, SW – 10/30/2007
Hello there, I am yet another freshwater aquarist newly delving into the world of keeping marine organisms. I have been doing heaps of reading and talking regarding my new venture, however, I would really appreciate an educated opinion on my proposed setup. Eventually I would like to keep species found on the Great Barrier Reef such as Amphiprion percula, Paracanthurus hepatus, Chromis sp., Synchiropus splendidus as well as corals. I have only just begun researching corals and I think I will try my luck with soft corals before graduating to SPS corals. The hardware plan involves using some equipment that already have and is as follows:
Tank constructed from glass with the dimensions 72" x 18" x 24" (approx. 130 gallons).
<Mmm, I would trade the width for the height here... two feet wide is easier on all...>
Two Eheim Classic 2217 canister filters with bioballs, activated carbon and Eheim filter pads (coarse and fine). One of these will outflow through a spray bar and the other through a SCWD.
<Mmm, am a big fan of these filters, manufacturer... but not good choice of type (canister) filtration for marine systems by and large... I'd keep looking and build/buy a sump/refugium for sure>
AquaC Remora Pro protein skimmer, adding another as bioload increases.
<Likely no need to add more>
Eheim air pump (400) for extra water movement and aeration.
<Again... better to opt for just more water movement...>
Two 300 watt heaters.
One inch thick plenum with four inches of substrate (coral sand) on top and enough live rock to fill around 1/3 of the display area. Is this ok so far?
<The substrate is... though I would just use the one inch or so in the main/display and remote the DSB in the sump...>
Lighting is proving fairly confusing and controversial as I am sure you are aware!! One LFS has suggested three 250 watt metal halides with actinics as well, and another LFS has recommended 8 x 39 watt 6ft HO T5 bulbs... I think, considering the depth of my tank metal halide lighting may be the best option if I want to keep corals. I know a lot of corals are overambitious for a beginner, however, I am researching with a very long term plan in mind and will only make small purchases when confident with species compatibility issues and, the water quality of the tank in terms of the required chemical values and their stability. Thank you very much for your time. Mel
<Mel... for what all is worth here, I would keep investigating, taking good notes... You show signs of having studied... but will do much better to look a bit more before buying/committing at this point. Start perusing here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
From the top on down. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Ignorance included, manual not
Marine Set-Up 10/29/07
<Hi Amber>
I'm attempting the best I can to make sure that I'm aware of what I want to ask exactly before I send this email to you as I clearly read the very angry and obviously Bryna in your search area. Here is my best disguise at having studied your forum for 3 1/2 hours in the middle of the night for my newest hobby and step toward the marine biology degree I wish to get someday...
<Best of luck in your endeavor.>
I bought a 28 gallon tank for my first salt water tank. I'm aware most aqua fiends insist on 55 or above, but as I wish to have a seahorse tank, I've been insisted that it's entirely large enough.
<Yes.>
I read about cycling and felt that while I read plenty on how to do it myself, live rock seemed the most natural and safest way to go, keeping the chemistry mostly out of my incapable hands.
<Live rock is a good method of bio filtration.>
I realize I still have regular testing to do but for the most part, live rock, being natural and all, seemed the best way to go to keep the environment as "natural" as possible for the future inhabitants. I called the "LFS" or for those of us who don't know as I have just learned today...the "Local Fish Store", which was recommended by my father who's been doing his tank for 15 years and more now having visited all the stores and this being the best with the most knowledgeable human inhabitants. As I spoke with the very friendly man on the other side of the phone, he said that there
were many ways to do my tank to keep it natural and affordable, especially for first starting out. Instead of mixing my own water for the first time, he said he could inexpensively sell me premixed water, which I thought was nice, and then I'll make sure to have him teach me how to maintain it myself and mix it as well after this.
<Mmm, no need for the extra expense, very easy to do. Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Water_Makeup/makeup_water.htm>
He recommended certain take mates rather than the tang I'd been informed was not aggressive which was then explained to be an aggressive eater.
<Your tank would be much too small for a tang.>
Then, when I mentioned how I wanted live rock aka LR as the one thing I knew I wanted and needed, he recommended little or no LR in order to minimize the expense along with the possibility of getting unwanted creatures who could harm the seahorses I intend to inhabit this tank. He then recommended live sand and base rock.
I didn't know what base rock was and after hours of finding little info online, I finally found a nice site, not yours unfortunately at the time, but rather wikipedia.com which explained how LR came with bacteria and other such things and then when I searched BR it explained it came with none at all. If BR comes with none at all, does that not defeat the purpose of getting it in general? I'm not getting this for my own aesthetic desire, but rather for a true habitat which may be peaceful and enjoyable to its inhabitants. I understand that most people are looking for aesthetics, but I find the seahorses to be the enjoyment, not a rock so much as I can find plenty in other places. Which would you recommend, or would you recommend both LR and BR and in what percentage if you could explain please. I don't intend to have many in habitants, as I read it's not so much the amount of rock but the number of inhabitants in one of your other responses.
<Live rock will contain beneficial bacteria which will develop to the levels required by the bio load in the tank. Base rock is generally dry when you get it and is generally used to build up areas to place live corals and such. It saves money in this regard as it is much cheaper than live rock and in time the base rock will be populated with beneficial organisms.>
That sounded like a true enough answer. Keeping that in mind, I thought I'd let you know what I DESIRE to have. Keep in mind that doesn't mean it will work as I continue to research this more. I desire to acquire 2, at most 3 seahorses of medium size, 2 Mandarin Dragonet as tank mates,
<For these fish, live rock is most essential along with live food supplements in the form of copepods. Do read here.
Mmm, here we go again, our web site not responding, but do search Callionymids on our site. You may be able to get through, and if not, try later.>
and 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish...unless otherwise informed that this is a bad decision and an explanation as to why since these are the only things I've found that consistently go together.
<I'd like to paste a link here on these but cannot display the page. Do search the starfish on our site and read before deciding.>
Also, I would actually get 1 Mandarin Dragonet, but I fear having 1 fish by itself as I don't wish it to get lonely...do you know if it does better in 1 or 2 as some are not happy together and others are unhappy alone.
<Better to go with one, males generally fight in such small quarters and no guarantee you will get a male/female.>
I honestly haven't found much on them other than about how "beautiful they are".
<Yes they are but require proper feeding as above. Very difficult to acclimate them to prepared foods.>
The LFS also said he'd give me a small protein skimmer free since he had an extra, as I asked about them since I HAVE been doing my reading and was noticing how these seahorses are about as messy as my 4 year old while eating. Is a small one a good idea or should I find a larger one in your recommendation.
<If it is free, I'd try it before buying one.>
Also, I have a filter which is 150 gallons per hour aka gph. Do you feel this is sufficient or should I upgrade or even downgrade as I've learned that they need a filter which does its job, but doesn't blow them around.
<Exactly, food needs to come to the seahorses as they aren't very speedy at catching food. Also search our site on seahorses and their care.>
So far from your site I've learned a lot about LR and BR placement, stabilizing and keeping the flow of water. I've read plenty about feeding and I'm ecstatic that I can include my abalone shell as a feeding trough and am happy to learn of the feeding tubes as I'm sure that just saved the carpet of which I felt was likely going to be sacrificed. I've learned that Mysis is enhanced with nutrients, likely to keep from having to starve the seahorses trying to get them to eat krill with their 2 year old like diets and picky behavior. I'm reading up on the importance of monitoring pH levels and how to do so, but was hoping that while my email was likely full of ignorance and simplicity, that you would take pity on a woman with a dream and a goal and help me out or at least point me into the right directions as to links to specific areas.
<Do search "ph and alkalinity">
I've been sifting through your masses of emails, and finding them enjoyable, knowledgeable and humorous all in the same moment. I've utilized your search link 3 times already, that's not including my least 2 days of research or my last couple years with oceanography and marine biology books I read on hobby. I just...find the way you approach things rather easy to understand in its breakdown. I appreciate all your help, even if the email is discarded as I'll just learn to be more specific...or keep my emails a bit more brief. Thank you for your help in advance. ;)
<Amber, keep reading/learning on the animals you want to keep before making the plunge, make sure you can provide what they require and also compatibility issues. I'm sorry I could not paste the links, but having trouble today getting the page content to appear. James (Salty Dog)>
Amber P
P.S. Do you think seahorses won't do as children do when given a choice of go hungry or eat what is given? I ask because if Krill are so much better for them, should I attempt to force it more than enhanced Mysis or keep to what is already known?
<The Mysis is fine, and you may also mix with adult brine shrimp fortified with vitamins. Krill is a little too large for seahorses in my opinion.>

Establishing A New Marine Tank – 10/07/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Howdy Bill>>
1st let me thank you for running such a great website.
<<Mmm, well…Bob “runs” it, the rest of us try to help where we can, struggling to keep up with it when he’s away/out of touch, and not doing very well at that…sorry for the delay in making a response>>
I've learned more on your site than any book out there on the subject of Saltwater fish keeping.
<<High praise indeed…thank you my friend>>
I'm setting up a 300 gallon circular tank with faux coral in the middle as decoration
<<Sounds interesting…though as a die-hard reefer I can’t say I have much use/interest in the faux coral…though I will acknowledge its suitability for certain applications>>
and since there won't be any live rocks in the tank itself, I would like to use a huge (like 100+ gallons) sump so I can put at least 100 lbs or so of live rocks to help with the filtration.
<<A very good idea…and the bigger the better>>
My 1st question to you is, how many lbs of live rock should I use to help cycle the tank?
<<The 100lbs you propose, or so, should do fine. A large DSB would be of significant advantage as well…in my opinion>>
I think the biggest sump I can fit in my fish room will be 72 x 18 x 20 which is what 125 gallons?
<<Mmm, about 112-gallons actual volume>>
I also intend to transfer a few cups of substrate from 2 established tanks that I have.
<<Very good>>
Aside from these two methods I mentioned, what else can I do, to help the cycle along?
<<Throw in a dozen or so shrimp pellets to decompose/feed the bacteria/boost bacterial populations>>
I really do not want to use Damsels since I think it's cruel and I really do not want to fill the tank with them.... rather save the space for nicer fish.
<<Agreed on all counts…is totally unnecessary>>
If these are the only methods and depending on how many lbs of live rock I use, approximately how long do you think it will take to cycle this tank assuming that the water temp will be around 78 to 80 degrees??
<<Count on a minimum of four weeks…but only testing will determine when the tank is fit for stocking. Do also consider that leaving the tank fallow for as long as you can stand (6-mos?) will benefit the system in the long term>>
The reason I'm asking you this is because I intend to set up 4 - 20 gallon quarantine tanks at the same time using the basic sponge filters that I put in my other tanks. Knowing that quarantine lasts about 21 days, I like to time it just so when the main tank is cycled, I can immediately move the quarantined fish into the cycled tank.
Thanks and best regards,
Bill Woo
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>

Combining SW tanks... Much reading, thinking to do...  10/3/07
Hello Crew,
<Casey>
I've written on a few different occasions, and you've helped me a lot. The last time was regarding a tank upgrade to accommodate the following fish load as I will be combining all of the tanks into one. Currently, I have:
55 gallon (purchased used and already stocked about a year ago)-One Spot Foxface Rabbitfish,
<Needs more room...>
Flame Angel, Pearly Jawfish, Pink-Spotted Shrimp Goby, Mandarin, Bicolor Blenny, Red Fromia Starfish, a cleaner shrimp, an Elegance Coral, Pulsing Xenia, various snails and hermits.
29 gallon-Long-Nosed Hawkfish,
<Ditto>
Banggai Cardinalfish, Coral Banded Shrimp, Torch Coral, Tiger Cowry, various snails and hermits.
10 gallon (began as a stand-beside refugium that I was going to connect to my 55 gallon)-2 juvenile Ocellaris clowns that I hope will become a mated pair
I was contemplating a 90 gallon, a 120 gallon, or 125 gallon. Bob said "the bigger the better." I think he was referring to tank size, not something else.
<Heeeee! Tank size>
So, I did more shopping and was lucky enough to find a 180 gallon Clarity Plus that included the stand, canopy, and some accessories at a great price. I admit that I am really constructionally challenged, and I've never used a sump before.
<Get some help...>
My plan is to have a reef tank with low to moderately demanding corals, no anemones or clams.? I have a couple of concerns and questions, and I was hoping you could help me.?
1.? The tank unfortunately only has one 1" overflow.?
<Pathetic>
Not really enough from what I've read as there will only be a 300-350 gph turnover.?
<Read re... get some help with drilling, adding two or more inputs that will allow two inch inside diameter through-puts>
I plan to use a couple of powerheads to increase the flow in the display.?
<I'd look into other means... posted...>
Will this be sufficient, or do you have other suggestions?? Also, I have a Mag 7 (700 gph) pump pushing the water up 4.5'.? Does this sound feasible?
<Not what I would do. Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
third tray down>
2.??The tank? came with a wet/dry trickle filter.? From doing research on WWM, I am aware that nitrates would become too high.? My plan is to remove the filter media and trays.? I've included a picture.
<None attached>
The overflow hose from the tank is currently split, and when it was a wet/dry,? the hose? would attach to the acrylic tops.? I'm thinking I want to set up the sump as pictured above from left compartment to right compartment, skimmer, refugium with live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha and heater, return pump.? Will this work?? Should I have water from the tank coming into both the skimmer area and the refugium, or should I take the T off and only have water coming into the skimmer area?? Also, the gap for the water to flow through under each compartment is only 1/2".? It doesn't seem as if that would be enough flow.? Would I need to drill additional holes in the acrylic between the compartments.? If so, how high should the holes be and how large?
3.? The pump already has a pipe with valve attached. I think it may be large enough to see in the photo.? It has a 1/2" ID nozzle type thing.? Does that indicate that flexible tubing was used for the return?? Wouldn't it be advantageous to use a larger output on the pump to restrict flow less?
4.? In regards to plumbing, the tank has 3 holes drilled in the top.? I'm assuming that is where the hoses or pipes? for the return go.? I'm thinking that flexible tubing can't be split from the pump (or can it?), so I'd be using PVC.? I know I need to study more, but do you have any simple suggestions regarding plumbing the pump to return the water to the tank?? Is there a directional output nozzle that would look more finished than PVC hanging in my tank.? I need Aquarium Plumbing for Dummies.
<Posted... again... read... and get some local reef/marine "guru" (ask at the stores about if there is a marine club, someone they'd recommend to come on by, give you guidance one on one>
Finally, when I first bought my 55 gallon, already stocked tank, some of the fish came down with ick after the move.? I consulted Bob, who said that given my small hospital tank and the small amount of ick, that I should just wait and see.? Well, that worked.? I purchased a cleaner shrimp, supplemented the fish food, and did many water changes to improve the quality of the water.? I know that it's still in my tank as it doesn't just go away, but I don't see it on the fish.? When I finally do get my 180 gallon ready to go, I would like to use the sand, live rock, and fish from the 55 gallon tank.? What precautions would I need to take to prevent ich from entering the new tank?? Would you recommend freshwater dips for the fish.?
<Yes... with a bit of formalin... as posted>
Should I leave the 55 gallon fallow for 6 weeks before using the rock and sand?? I'm going to keep the tank lightly stocked, maybe add another Jawfish or a Lawnmower Blenny, another cleaner shrimp, and a Regal Tang (which I know are very susceptible to ick).
<Yes>
Thanks for taking the time to read this really long e-mail and for your expertise.
Sincerely,
Casey
<Keep reading... but moving ahead with the purchase... and get some local help! Bob Fenner>

A real newbie to the aquarium world  9/23/07
Hi,
<Hello there Lori>
I have been thinking about starting an aquarium for quite some time now, preferably Saltwater / Coral Reef. I am aware and have been told by many that this a big and time consuming endeavour.
<Can be... is a fascinating enterprise for sure>
I have an opportunity to purchase a Fluval Osaka 260 Fish Tank.
<Can see here: http://www.paraquatics.co.uk/en-gb/dept_156.html>
It comes with a 70 gallon tank and desk with T5 Ho 2 tubes life glow top and a Fluval 405 Hagen filter. They are saying retail on this is about $1,250.00 Canadian funds. I can purchase it for about $600.00
I wanted to know if it is a good deal but more than that is it more than I need and I am getting way above myself for a beginner.
Lori Lassman
<Mmm, well, this is certainly a strikingly beautiful set-up... But I am not a fan of this filtration (canister) as the sole source of circulation and filtering for marines... As you become a bit more familiar you'll understand that you'd be much better off with gear that was more robust and flexible... That you'll want a protein skimmer... One way of putting this is that there's more involved, and that at the very least I'd do a bunch more looking into the hobby before committing funds here. This gear would be fine for many freshwater applications (I have two such FW tank set-ups... with Eheim gear instead). I do encourage you to look into and read a couple of good "complete" marine aquarium books... this will greatly aid you in understanding what is involved, what your options are. Do feel free to write back with more specific questions. Bob Fenner>