FAQs about Caryophyllid Coral Nutritional Disease
Coral Pests and
Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara
FAQs on Euphylliid Disease:
Caryophyllid Disease 1, Caryophyllid Disease 2, Caryophyllid Disease 3, Caryophyllid Disease 4, Caryophyllid Disease 5, Caryophyllid Disease 6, Caryophyllid Disease 7, Euphylliid Health 8, Euphylliid Health 9, Euphylliid Health 10,
Health 11, Euphylliid Health 12,
Euphylliid Health 13,
Euphylliid Health 14,
& Elegance Coral Disease/Pests,
FAQs on Euphylliid Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease: Stony Coral Disease 1, Stony Coral Disease 2, Stony Coral Disease 3, Stony Coral Disease 4, Stony Coral Disease 5, Stony Coral Disease 6, Stony Coral Disease 7, Stony Coral Disease 8, Stony Coral Disease 9, Stony Coral Disease 10, Stony Coral Disease 11, Stony Coral Disease
12, Stony Coral Disease 13,
Stony Coral Disease 14,
Stony Coral Disease 15, Stony Coral
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Family: Acroporid Disease, Acroporid Disease 2, Acroporid Disease 3, Acroporid Disease 4...,
Caryophyllid Disease 2..., Elegance Coral Disease/Pests, Dendrophylliid Disease, Faviid Disease, Faviid Disease 2, Fungiid Disease, Mussid Disease, Mussid Health 2, Poritid Health, Trachyphylliid Disease, Trachyphyllia Disease 2,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease, RTN,
These organisms need to be fed: Fine, meaty foods... NOT
phyto- or largely phony/placebo liquid commercial prep.s
DO have to have some (but not too much) Nitrate and
soluble Phosphate for photosynthesis.
Brown Jelly Euphyllia paradivisa... actually chem.
starvation, allelopathy... iatrogenic errors 3/16/16
I am looking for your wisdom on saving a large neon Euphyllia paradivisa
from the dreaded brown jelly disease.
This event is spreading quickly so please advise and I will jump into
150 gallon, 6 year established mixed reef, skimmer, LifeReef CO2 reactor
& sump & refugium, LEDs, MP 40s, constant pH 8.06 (due to CO2 reactor?),
<Maybe... What is your RedOx? >
CO2 reactor pH 6.5, no phosphates, no nitrates,
<... all photosynthetic; make that all life requires some measurable
HPO4, NO3... See, as in READ on WWM re>
415 calcium, alkalinity 12 dKH,
magnesium 1300, 1.026 salinity, 80.8 degrees F, 20% water changes
weekly, softies, few SPS, many LPS, 10 fish, hermits, starfish,
I noticed a small Aiptasia on the disc of a large toadstool leather a
<So; in addition to chemical/food starvation, allelopathy may be an
Yes, I should have addressed it but didn't.
This Sunday, I used a small dab of Aiptasia X on the anemone and noticed
a ring of dead/loose tissue the size of a quarter around the pest.
So I turkey basted up the dead tissue and the melted anemone. When I did
this it revealed a deep tunnel of dead tissue coming from inside the
trunk of the
toadstool. Anyhow, I turkey basted up more dead tissue and then...
proceeded to gently turkey baste the new tunnel through the
I did this dead tissue spewed into the water column. I turned on the
<... what is in this reactor?>
to run carbon and did the 25% water change. Everything looked great in
Monday, toadstool was still in good recovery.
Tuesday, toadstool looking still positively recovering-the tissue looks
good! Polyps are thinking about opening under the normal shiny slime
coat it gets when it goes through growth spurt. HOWEVER, on the other
side of the 150 gallon tank, I noticed a tiny spot of brown goo on a
hard to see area of a giant Euphyllia, around noon. Hoping it was waste
product, I made a mental note.
At 5:00 p.m., the pea sized brown goo was quarter sized. I rotated the
coral to take a photo and have a clearer view. Yes, it has to be tissue
from the toadstool on the opposite end of the tank landed in the far end
of the frogspawn! What do I do?
<Water changes, chemical filtrant (Polyfilter, GAC) use, and overdosing
This is my prized (6 years with me) neon wall frogspawn. I can't loose
<Or lose it>
Panic is setting in! I have searched the internet and wet web....
Do I try the iodine dipping routine?
<Not dipping, addition>
(I tried this years ago to no avail.)
Do I take it to the LFS with a coral saw to separate infected from good?
(I think this is the only option to save part of this LPS. ?)
<A possibility... but not what I'd do... see the above, use the search
tool (on every page on WWM) and READ>
By tomorrow morning, this could be really bad.
Thanks for any suggestions.
I have learned a painful lesson: turn off power heads when working
around suspicious coral tissue and address pest anemones ASAP.
<And you; Bob Fenner>
Euphyllia Brown Jelly
another pic of brown jelly
<This looks more like BGA... do you have a microscope? Same response
Toadstool Leather dead tissue
Here is a picture of the toadstool with the dead tissue and melted Aiptasia
before I turkey basted up the majority of dead tissue.
The tissue was powdery & fibrous grey. The tissue on the toadstool was not
But it has to be what started the brown jelly on the frogspawn. ?
<A contributing factor very likely>
<Allelopathy by Alcyonaceans.... reading. B>
Euphyllia Brown Jelly-cautiously optimistic
Thank you for your advice! I am cautiously optimistic.
When you mentioned RedOx, I was reminded to learn more about this measurement.
<A VERY useful indicator of a system's capacity to foster life>
Reading through the articles in WetWeb helped me understand its importance. It
will be the next addition to the system.
I did a 25% water change, changed the carbon, changed the poly filter material,
cranked up the skimmer, gently turkey baste away any brown jelly that forms
every couple hours, raised the iodide-ate to .09 overnight, the next morning 20%
water change, more turkey baste removal, iodine level now at .08 and the
frogspawn is looking pretty good!
<In the photo; I agree>
(Tomorrow I will do a 10% water change and work on getting the iodine down to
.07.) The brown jelly production is now minimal and the other 3/4's of the
frogspawn is acting almost normal.
(The only coral objecting to the high iodine level is a sunset encrusting
Montipora, other Montiporas are looking fine.)
I have been reading and will continue to read about increasing nitrates and
phosphates. So the goal is NO3 a few ppm and HPO4 between .01-.05?
I looked back into the log, and Nitrates ranged between 0 - .2 (Salifert), and
Phosphates ranged between 0 - .04 (Hanna & Red Sea) over the past 6 months. Most
of the time the readings were 0, which is strange when the
refugium is full of macroalgae,
<Ah, not strange... the algae are/were scavenging most all>
fish are generously fed, I target feed corals, corals are growing, and
occasionally tank has a minor hair algae event.
<I'd remove a good deal of the 'fuge macro-algae... only run the 'fuge lighting
at night; in opposition to the main/displays>
A Neptune Apex was recently installed, so the next programming I will do is to
turn off the skimmer during feeding...and night?
<I'd leave running at night; for DO>
and add the ORP probe.
Anyhow, thank you for the recommendations and hopefully this wall Euphyllia will
pull through. I feel that it was in a thriving state of health before this event
due to its tripling in size over the past 6 years, great polyp extension and
good fleshy tissue around the calcified base.
Reading, reading, reading is the only way I have gotten this far in the
hobby...the chemistry part isn't natural for this art major. Thank you for
<Your response, success... is exactly what I hope for in producing and making
WWM available. Thank you for sharing.
Trying First Coral Addition - Green Hammer. Starved, and?
Sorry in advance for the length but want to give you as much detail as
I have been stymied in my attempt to add the first coral to my 55g
FOWLR. I have tried consulting with local experts but have not been able
to get any answers. It is a small branching hammer I currently have on
the bottom in the sand partially sheltered by my rock. It still has
color but keeps mostly retracted. I have had it for about 3
weeks and it has never opened fully like it was at the sellers.
<Mmm; could be "many" things different here. Several water quality
possibilities, lighting, circulation, allelopathy, pests...>
Here are my system details: 55g 4 foot tank, 2 Chinese make 120w led
(taotronic or similar actinic and white) currently set at min levels -
blue on 12 hours whites 10) set at 9" above water,
<... see WWM re PAR/PUR and the needs of Caryophylliids...
likely there's insufficient (too low intensity) light here>
40b sump in basement with SC Aquariums 302 skimmer additional rock and
Chaeto, filter socks at DT drain (with bag of CupriSorb) and
<Uhh; do you have measurable NO3 and HPO4? Necessary>
300w heater, BRS reactor w/ carbon, 32g brute can (2nd sump in line used
for additional volume and mixing sw), JBJ top off fed from 2nd brute can
that holds RODI (well water run through whole house neutralizer using
calcium carbonate and 4 stage RODI with TDS of 0 - also used for water
changes which is 10g a week with IO), pan world 100px return pump, total
volume approximately 105g.
I have been set up for 2.5 years. I have a pair of B&W ocellaris (2
years now), algae blenny
<Could be hassling>
(1 year), six line wrasse (<year) and flame angel (<year).
I had a very hard time adding the angel, taking 6 tries to get one that
survived. I attribute that more to the frailties of the fish than
anything else. My current flame is very healthy and the King of the
tank! It and the six line are buds! I feed 1-2 times a day alternating
between LRS, Hikari mysis, Hikari brine/algae, New Era pellet and some
Nori once in a while.
Current parameters are (they stay pretty consistent):
Sal 1.023 (refractometer)
<Needs to be NSW strength (1.025-6>
Ammonia <.02 (salifert and SeaChem alert badge)
Nitrite 0 (API)
Nitrate 0 (API)
<Absolutely necessary. SEE WWM RE>
<... this too. Chemo-photosynthates can't live w/o>
(I do currently have some Cyano which I am trying to siphon out)
KH/Alk 9.6 / 3.42
I feel like I am doing everything right but can't figure out this
hammer. I am on my second attempt and they both have reacted the same
way. Looks ok at first but then retracts into the skeleton. I have not
seen any picking
by my fish. I do not direct feed the coral. I have been cleaning my
filter socks by soaking them in a water/bleach solution but I also run
them through the washer with AmQuel. So perhaps low levels of chlorine?
I also thought some heavy metal from the well water but it gets pretty
well filtered I think. Here is a photo, not the best but gives you an
idea of how retracted it is. This is pretty much how it has been.
Help! I am at a loss.
<What's that saying? At least some of your/its problems are obvious.
Keep reading. Bob Fenner>
Re: Trying First Coral Addition - Green Hammer
Thanks for the quick reply. Oh and happy holidays! I can work on increasing
the lighting. I guess I thought it was not opening due to too much lighting.
<Not just this, but yes; move this "specimen up" on the higher rock>
I will also get the salinity up. I just recalibrated the refractometer and
it was running high so I will adjust with my next water changes.
That and I will work on dirtying up my water I guess! I will stop the
CupriSorb and carbon and see if that helps.
I really don't think it's any of the fish. I have never seen any of them pay
any attention to the hammer. The flame swims by all the time. Never even
takes a look. But I will keep an eye out.
Thanks again for input.
<Measurable nitrate and phosphate... BobF>
Hurting bubble and doughnut coral 6/29/12
I have 2 bubble and an Indonesian Scolymia sp
(doughnut coral) that are not doing so great, they're
still extending their tentacles, albeit poorly.
But there's part of their skeleton that has turned black. The coral
refuse to extend near the black area of the skeleton. Should I remove
the dying part, and how the best way to do it?
<I would not remove the necrotic tissue; but would make up a slightly
lower (a few thousandths) spg solution of seawater (or just add fresh to
a portion of the system water) and a ten times dose of iodide-ate for a
five minute bath>
I suspect the infection started because the bubbles fall from the rock
near a lobo coral.
<? What? If too near, I'd move one or the other>
the Scolymia did not
acclimatize well and has never accepted feeding. Water parameter is
within the norm, PH 7,9 salinity 1.025, nitrate 0, phosphate 0,
<Chemophotosynthates need some (measurable) NO3 and
HPO4. I'd remove whatever chemical filtrants you're using here>
calcium 400, alkalinity 9, magnesium 1200.
My second question is why these corals are not doing well (I also have
several other LPS not doing so great although they're still extending).
<See above. They're likely starved>
My system is 90g, with an oversized DIY skimmer (rated for 150g) running
non stop, NP-Biopellet reactor, and Rowaphos fluidizer.
<Ditch these last two. Unnecessary and expensive>
Additives are Grotech Ca, Mg, and Alk supplied daily via dosing pump
(balling light). Lighting is DIY 3wx32 LED fixtures, mix of Royal blue
and cool white (50/50). Do you think the light is overkill as some of my
LPS won't extend their polyp in direct light?
SPS seems to be doing fine of course. Or is it lack of nutrition
from over filtration?
<Ding ding ding! Yes>
Do you think I could benefit from using a timer for my skimmer?
<Maybe. Worth trying out>
Would a Biopellet reactor and RowaPhos fluidizer benefit from timer
instead of running 24h non stop?
I'm thinking about installing an Algae turf scrubber
<Do study carefully. Most designs are not worthwhile>
and see if it can replace the fluidizers, I've heard that they're great
way to supply nutrition to your tank. thanks as always for your valuable
<Mmm, and let's have you review here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Unwell bubble 1/21/11
Hello one and all, from across that large expanse of water we
call The Pond. Yesterday I managed to negotiate the purchase of a
large(5" round) Physogora
lichtensteini for a fiver(£5) of a local retailer. This
coral would normally sell for about(£50-£60).
As you might have guessed it is not in the greatest of condition.
Probably 70% of the septa are showing,
<Do at times in the wild as well>
as yet with no algal covering, a lot of the exposed area a purple/red
colour (any info. on the reason for this would be welcome).
<I suspect BGA... bad>
The green tissue that is left is in either circular colonies around a
mouth, or in long strands again with a mouth. There is also tissue
lifting off the skeleton in two areas, where you can see a little white
colour on the underside. There is absolutely no sign of disease or
infection anywhere. Also having had a really good inspection can see no
critters on it having a nibble. I have it in isolation. My first
question is in its obviously unwell condition is it worth possibly
stressing it out further with a dip?
<It is in my opinion, experience well worth it>
Second question, the guy in the shop said it had been in there for as
long as he could remember, and also told me they don't target feed
any of their stock,
is it possible it is starving.
Next question, if you don't think its lack its lack of food, what
are the other possibilities.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/EuphHlthF8.htm
and the linked files above>
Fourth question, whatever your prognosis, what's the best method to
attempt any rescue. And finally have I thrown my fiver away. Thanks in
advance of any reply. Paul Tinkler.
<Do write back w/ specific questions after you've read. Bob
Re: Unwell bubble 1/22/11
Hi Bob, thanks for the link. The retailer I bought this coral from had
all his frags in one large display, and colonies in another.
<Ahh, folks would do better/well to separate such bits by their
likely chemical/physical aggressiveness>
I know he had a large GSP colony in with the bubble because my son
asked me what it was. He may of had other soft corals in there too,
I tend to "switch off" when I see softies as I have no
interest in them. I'm thinking the demise of mine could be down to
being exposed to long term allelopathy and not getting sufficient food.
<Of a certainty, yes>
What to do with it is the priority, perhaps start with an iodine dip in
<I'd make/use one first outside the tank... slightly lowered spg
(a couple thousandths), a few teaspoons of simple (pent-, hex-ose) per
gallon, and a ten fold concentration of iodide-ate... AND add a double
dose of this last to the system>
Then all I think I can do is feed daily and keep the water quality spot
on. Do you agree?
Or is there more I can do?
<Not much else other than keeping the system stable,
Bearing in mind it probably only has 20-30% of its soft tissue left,
and as I have said the remaining tissue is in small colonies dotted
around the skeleton with decent sized gaps between them, what is your
short/long term prognosis?
<Can still recover, regenerate the lost tissue. Have seen many
Is it likely to survive? What do I do if it starts to get an algal
<Mmm, depends on cause... perhaps shade more>
If it does survive is it going to regain the exposed skeleton?
<Hopefully in time>
Sorry for all the questions. I will be much obliged for any answers.
Re: Unwell bubble 1/25/11
Hello again Bob, I have discovered whilst target feeding the coral
<Oh? Pray, do tell>
As I have said what tissue that is left is in "outcrops"
dotted around the skeleton running either along lines or whorls of
septa. What connects the septa is a very thin layer of what is probably
some sort of
calcium deposit, presumably what the connecting tissue sat on. This
layer is incredibly brittle. It can be cracked/broken with the end of a
wooden kebab stick. Found this out when trying to maneuver a piece of
food into one of the remaining mouths. Also when it is broken a large
bubble of gas will appear then float to the surface. Is this
<Yes... damaged tissue decomposition... gas-producing>
Sorry about the description, but do not know the correct
terminology/biology of the coral.
Again any answer would be welcome. Thank you Paul.
<Do use a "baster" (ala turkey) to "spritz"
ground up (small) suspended (in water) meaty foods during the daylight
(or tissue-expanded) time once a day on this coral...
Torch coral... hlth? Beh.? 03/01/09 Hello good day
to you. Have a small question today. I have a few Hammer and Torch
corals in my tank. All are doing great, with excellent polyp extension.
I provide them with moderate flow and moderate lighting. So far they
look very happy and reward me with beautiful and healthy looking
extension of their tentacles. However, I did notice something. One of
my Torch and one of my Hammer Corals seem to have lost its stickiness
on its tentacles. The others are doing fine, with sticky tentacles that
enable them to catch mysis and the occasional table shrimp. I just
wanted to know if the coral is declining? I really hope not because it
is one my favourite corals. I feed my tank 3 small portions a day,
rotating between mysis, pellets and my own blend of seafood. I have a
healthy amount of fish that produce waste (I heard some corals like
fish fecal matter?), and 20% water changes about once a week. Please
advise on my situation..I do hope that they are still getting enough
food via photosynthesis and the dissolved organics along with some very
fine food that they might get through absorbtion. The only thing that
they cannot seem to get hold of is bigger pieces of food due to their
non-sticky tentacles. <Kai, I'm not even sure this seeming lack
of "stickiness" is even a problem/concern. If the corals are
not receding and are extending as normal, I'd assume they're
ok. But you have a lot going on in a relatively small tank. You have a
Moorish idol in a small tank with corals... maybe that's the
problem. Or maybe your corals are just getting plenty to eat. Again, if
you're not seeing any obvious signs of decline, I wouldn't
worry.> Just a quick update on my Moorish idol since I am already
writing to you. 2 and a half weeks old and going strong. Had fight off
ich and has gained good immunity against it (hopefully). Fat and alert,
and have taken a strong liking towards New Life Spectrum pellets and
mysis enriched with Selcon. Feeds aggressively on = anything except
flake which it seems to hate. <That's good. But you're still
going to have to find another home for this fish.> Have a pleasant
weekend. - Kai <Cheers, Sara M.>
Torch coral, no sweeper tentacles - 10/07/2007 Hey
guys, I was hoping for some help. <Hi Brian> I got a torch coral
about 1 month ago. It seems to be doing well during the day. It is nice
and big, but at night I haven't seen any sweeper tentacles. I have
tried putting enriched mysis shrimp on his non-sweeper tentacles and
eventually it seems to slowly let go of it. I have it under 175 metal
halide and 2*65watt actinic. Could it be getting enough energy from
light? Is it just unhealthy and that is why the sweeper tentacles
don't come out? What should I do? Thank you guys/girls are the best
and my main source of information. <LPS corals use the sweeper
tentacles for defense against other encroaching corals. They can sense
a coral near buy and will move their sweepers to that area in an effort
to sting the coral and defend it's space. I have seen Euphyllia sp.
go after mushroom corals very aggressively. If your LPS does not
capture the mysis but is opened with good color then it is still
healthy. The polyps will show you when they are stressed by receding to
the skeleton. If the polyps come out with the lights everyday then I
would not worry. Try to feed about an hour after lights out. My Hammer
and Torch corals don't accept mysis either but are growing very
well while my other LPS feed heavily on mysis! Water parameters
are most paramount. Make sure Calcium levels are maintained above
400ppm and Alkalinity is near 3.0meq/l or above 8 DKH. Keep nitrates
and phosphates low with resins, activated carbon, and regular water
Bubble Coral, hlth., fdg., beh.
8/29/07 Greetings Crew, I've had a bubble coral
for about 2 months now and he has been doing very well. Recently
with the last few weeks he is just not inflating very much. He
has 5 separate stalks in which 4 of them will at times stretch
out extremely far, but one very rarely extends. The bubbles
themselves have not achieved the sized that I had recently had. I
have them under power compact lighting in a 29 gallon BioCube (
144 watt ) 2 actinic and 2 10000 k sunlight. My water parameters
are as follows Ph 8.4 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 0 Ammonia 0 SG 1.025
Calcium 520 ppm <whoa, seriously?!> Phosphate 0 Temperature
78-79 F <What is your alkalinity?> I have seen my
temperature climbing in excess of 81 degrees on occasion since I
do live in Florida and it's summer. I've recently propped
up the enclosure so I have a 3/4" gap around the tank and
hood and opened the rear sump door and front feeding door to get
in some more airflow to see if this alleviates some problems.
I'm also feeding some i some silversides once a week to
whichever stalks happen to have their "mouths" open. If
it turns out not to be a heat issue, what else could it be. I
also feed them phytoplankton and regularly does Coral-Accel and
Coral Vita<<Not useful... the latter two are pollution in bottles. RMF>> <Ok, no more silversides unless you chop them up as
small as diced onions. A lot of people make the rookie mistake of
thinking that because the mouth of the bubble coral is so big, it
must want really big food. It doesn't. It's similar to
the fact that you could probably fit a whole lemon in your mouth
but getting it down is another matter. Try feeding the polyps
much smaller pieces (Mysid shrimp are a good start). I'd
ditch the coral-Accel and coral vital.> Missing info ... I
have the coral skeleton in live sand at the bottom of the tank in
mild water flow area. It is in the open so it is also receiving
direct lighting. I rearranged the live rock a little bit so I
could get him out of direct light per your article. <Also try
to make sure that they can fully expand without scraping the
sand.> Tim <Best, Sara M.>
Re: Bubble Coral, hlth., fdg., beh.
8/29/07 Lol... Yeh... I use a 2 part kit for calcium
and alkalinity ( B-ionic ) I ran out of alkalinity test solution
so I couldn't provide that :( <Yikes! Dude, how did you
even measure that? My test kit only goes to 500ppm! lol Anyway...
your alkalinity is probably dangerously low. You should get an
alkalinity kit ASAP. If it's low you can raise it with baking
soda (couple teaspoons at a time).> and yes I do chop the
silverside up extremely small and the bubble eats it very very
slowly <Ah, good... sorry I underestimated your
sophistication. :-) Best, Sara M.>
Re: Bubble Coral... hlth. 7/29/07
Actually had some more test fluid ... grr... my alkalinity is dKH
12 ppm KH 214.8 Is this too high ? <It's a little high.
Which is surprising given your calcium level. But it happens. You
must be using one of those two-part solutions. Stop using it
until things fall down to normal. You'll have to keep testing
the water regularly to get a sense of what your routine needs to
be (how often to add the solution).> I included a picture of
how he is at the moment. I have never seen him extended this far,
feeder tentacles are out also. <It's really closed up in
the photo. Is this the one you meant to send? It looks like it
suffered quite a bit of tissue recession around the base. But
given the color of the skeleton I'm guessing that happened
some time before you got it, right? The polyps still look ok,
except for being closed.> I decided to feed him some Kent
Phytoplex at this point. <That's not going to do anything.
The corals we keep in aquariums don't eat phytoplankton (at
least not directly). If you want to feed it something small
besides the minced silversides, try Cyclop-eeze or brine or Mysid
shrimp. Warming up the water a bit wouldn't hurt either. 80
to 83F is usually the best temp range for these indo-pacific
corals. Best, Sara M.>
Re: Bubble Coral... hlth. 7/29/07 Your
right on the money there, I'm using Bi-Onic two part solution
<Ah, that would explain it. The two part solutions are great
for smaller tanks (except that they're sometimes easy to over
dose). It gets difficult to afford using them in bigger tanks. I
mean, seriously, $20 a bottle?! At that price you'd think it
involved the feces of some exotic bat found deep in the rain
forest, harvested by an Incan priestess and dissolved in holy
water.> I'm not sure what you mean by tissue recession and
he picture doesn't quite show it, but tissue is actually up
very high (may be the angle I took the picture at, here is second
one <On pristine bubble corals, there is tissue covering the
whole base and completely covering the "teeth" of the
polyps. When, because of stress, starvation, etc., tissue
recession starts, it often starts at the base and works its way
up. If it keeps going, it will leave only part of the polyp
tissue left (it looks like this happened on at least one of the
polyps of your coral). When it recovers, it doesn't grow back
the way it came. As far as the coral is concerned, its dead
skeleton is now just another rock. It can grow new skeleton and
tissue over the old skeleton, but this takes time. And in the
mean time, you can have a bubble coral that's a little funky
looking. A lot of aquarists don't recognize this because they
don't have any mental image of what the coral should look
like. They only know what other store and aquarium corals look
like. And it's rare to see a coral in an aquarium that's
in pristine condition. But don't get down about it. Your guy
is a survivor. The coral looks like it's been through hell
(likely quite some time before you first saw it). But it also
looks like it's been healing and growing back. It just needs
a little TLC to keep it going. Ideally, you should feed it at
night (after lights out).> Grrr... guessed I wasted my money
on that. <Happens to the best of us... ;-) Phytoplankton can
be useful for other reasons, but I probably wouldn't use
PhytoPlex this way.> I feed frozen brine every day to my fish,
will the coral get enough nourishment out of this. <Probably
not (not for this kind of coral). The best thing you can do for
this coral is to target feed it at night. Don't over do it
(obviously), but don't get discouraged if it doesn't
start opening up right away. Give it a week or two.> I was
worried when my temperatures got to high. Would 80 be a happy
medium for most species ? <Yep. Do keep us updated! :-)
Pearl bubble Hello to you all, <Hellooooooo Helene!> I
have read all over the WWM site and still can't seem to figure out
what to do for my Pearl Bubble. <flowers, soft music and candlelight
always make me feel better. That and a fifth of brandy. Do consider...
for the coral, that is... not for me. I can take care of myself> All
seems well in the kingdom for the all other life but the pearl just
keeps on shrinking... <do you play Mariah Carey a lot?> I have
been trying to tempt him to eat with a little direct feeding of
zooplankton and phytoplankton mixture. <good with the
zoo... but don't waste your time on the phyto with this species.
Form follows function, and this coral has huge feeding tentacles
designed to catch large zooplankton. No plant matter here> Even
tried a little of my home recipe clam, shrimp, fish etc frozen stuff.
All to no avail...he is in the middle of the 75 gal, decent water
activity and not too near to anybody else. <all good>
Water quality is good although we did have a nitrate spike a while ago
when we lost a few little fishes and couldn't find them.... <no
biggie> these were new fishes and had been quarantined but alas who
knows.... <understood my friend> Any ideas?
<yep... I think we should send Weird Al Yankovic to Iraq to counter
the threat of chemical weapons by the tyrannical regime in power (the
oil companies that is)> Or once again not enough info....
<regarding the bubble, it sounds as if you have done all you can.
You may need to pull the coral to a bare bottomed QT tank to determine
if the irritant is in the tank itself. 4 weeks as usual in QT> I
will continue to try to feed him. Hard to catch him when his
feeders are out.... <good, but don't wait...put a tablespoon of
meaty juice in the tank 15 minutes prior to feeding and the tentacles
should come out> I think that he may be getting too weak to extend
them. <I assure you that is not so> The addition of
zooplankton is new.....think that might help? <Oh ya! it is the only
food this coral eats. If you have been using phyto only up to know,
your coral has been starving. Bubbles are meat eaters> Anyway, thank
you for all your help......Helene <best regards, my friend.
Anchor Coral Problem I've been having a problem with my
anchor coral for the past couple of weeks. Let me start from
the beginning. I bought the coral 5 months ago. About 2
weeks after I bought it, one of the polyps shriveled up and died in a
24-hour period. I attributed this to the fact that I
probably scratched it while I was feeding it. <hmmm...
this reminds me to warn you to be careful not to feed large foods...
never larger than 1/4" bits (minced). Even though this blind and
sightless animals will sting and draw any large chunk of dead fish or
shrimp in... it doesn't make it smart or safe. Many coral are
harmed or killed by feeding large krill, shrimp or fish chunks> About 2 weeks ago, for no apparent reason, another polyp shriveled up
and died in the same way. <more symptoms needed here...
any evidence of necrosis, change of color... waning over what period of
time, etc?> Yesterday, one more polyp started
shriveling. (This last polyp was connected to the
previous polyp by tissue, so I'm not sure if this polyp
is dying because it was connected to the other.) <not
likely over this period of time (no pathogen)... more likely suffering
the same physical imposition (feeding, water quality or predator)>
My water parameters are all fine, <fine relative to what... numbers
please> and I can find no exterior signs of infection or
parasites. The coral was doing fine for a long time after I
bought it, <months? still not long if starving (regurgitating large
chunks after dark)> so I'm not sure how it could have been
infected. <almost certainly not infected/pathogenic over
this period of time> I have 2 polyps left on the coral that seem to
be doing fine, but then again the other polyps looked fine before they
mysteriously died. <how fast/sudden? Perhaps there is a
fish in the tank nibbling at night. Fish list please> My other
corals and fish are not showing any signs of
stress. I've seen postings about a Malachite Green dip,
but I could not find the exact recipe. <Good heavens no! No organic
dyes or metals on invertebrates please. Very dangerous... and you
don't even have an infection (no mention of necrotic tissue!)>
I'm not even sure if the dip is the appropriate action to
take. Can you help? Thanks for all of your help
-- past, present, and future! <a picture please if possible. With
kind regards, Anthony>
Anchor Coral problem 2 I guess in my pre-Christmas haste, I
forgot a few important details. 1. There were no real
outward symptoms. No necrosis or other signs of tissue
degradation or color change. One day they would appear open
and happy, and the next day they would begin shriveling
up. They would start shriveling on one side and by the end
of the day, they would be completely shriveled. The tissue
would be almost completely gone by the next morning (most likely eating
by my many critters). <agreed... this is a severe water
quality issue or predation. Perhaps a large inconspicuous flatworm
nearby> The last polyp that died was in the front, so I could see it
much better than the other two. In addition to the
shriveling, the tissue looked as if it was tearing away from the
skeleton. I did not notice this on the others, but this may
have been caused by the fact that this polyp was also in a slightly
higher water flow area. <interesting... have you checked magnesium
levels? Do you use/abuse liquid or turbo calcium (awful stuff...
chloride accumulation)... or do you use buffers with borate heavy
handedly (maintains ALK but weak for coral use)>> 2. I
have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and < 10 nitrates. My calcium
is at 410, my dKH is at 9.5, and my pH is at 8.3. No complaints
here> 3. I have 1 Ocellaris clown, one Hippo Tang, and
one Scott's Velvet Wrasse. <no conspicuous risks here>
It's interesting that you brought up the predation. I
did find two brown Mithrax crabs. <Doh! If you don't
have Atlantic live rock, they weren't Mithrax crabs
(Mithraculus)! And most all crabs including true Mithrax can be
predatory... strong candidates here> I was able to get them out of
the tank last night. They seemed too small to do any damage,
<heehee...> but maybe that's what was killing my coral.
Thanks again. <very possible. Anthony>
Anchor Coral Problem Dear Mr. Fenner I have a question
regarding an anchor coral I recently purchased. I bought it about a
week ago and now it appears to be dissolving. I have tested my water
parameters and they're all perfect (PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate,
and Calcium). When I first bought it I put it near the top of the tank
because I was told this coral needed strong lighting. I have 4 55w
power compacts 2 are 10k whites and 2 are actinic blues. I was also
told this coral didn't like strong current. So I put it between two
rocks and not directly in the way of any power heads. Since the
purchase I have been feeding my tank Kent Marines Phytoplex and Coral
Accel about 2ml of each every day. The coral seems to be dissolving at
the ends and working their way in towards the middle, even though the
middle looks pretty healthy. My system is only about a 2 months old but
has been cycled for about a month now. I have a green star polyp that
is doing incredibly well. Any insight you might have would be greatly
appreciated and thank you in advance for your guidance and wisdom.
Thang Nguyen <Perhaps too much light, too soon... and this
animal's genus (Euphyllia) do appreciate considerable water
movement... and perhaps a negative biochemical reaction with your
established polyps... but much more likely what you're
seeing/evidencing is the repercussions of "collecting, shipping
shock"... and perhaps secondary microbial involvement. Please read
over the family Caryophylliidae section on the site:
www.wetwebmedia.com and do consider applying the malachite green dip
remedy detailed there... this may be the only thing to arrest the
dissolving at this point. Bob Fenner>
Bubble problems.. <cheers, Brett> Hello Wet Web Staff,
> I have a problem with a Plerogyra sinuosa. It was doing
great for a period of a year or so. It has been a gracious host to a
clown fish for all of that time. <ouch... Scleractinia hosting
clowns usually means trouble for the coral. Repetitive and unnatural
abrasion of soft tissue against its own skeleton from the guest
(clown). Wounds and tissue recession are inevitable in time> From
readings on your site I found that I haven't been feeding it
enough, but it was being fed periodically cut pieces of whole shrimp.
<yes... please do feed minced (smaller pieces) several times weekly
for the coral doesn't consume itself (attrition) in time> It
also always gets floating brine shrimp that go uneaten by its finned
tankmates. <Hmmm... adult brine? Very hollow food (almost no
nutrition here... animals starve to death on this.). Try Mysis shrimp
instead. Many other possibilities too... Gammarus, Pacifica plankton...
anything but brine shrimp!> My problem is within the past week the
bubbles are separating from the base. <not good indeed> The coral
still balloons and otherwise looks normal. It's just that half of
it is free from the stony base. What's your prognosis?
<it can survive... will take a few months... the clown must be
removed and food particles have to be 1/4 or smaller (tiny) to prevent
internal damage> I'm hoping maybe this is normal, however,
I'm doubtful since I see no other queries stating this type of
problem. <correct, my friend... it is not a good sign at all.>
Tank chemistry parameters show no anomalies in any readings and are all
within ranges that are considered healthy. The tank has been running
for years with no real changes in chemistry. Lighting is 4 96 watt pc.
bulbs two actinic two bright, running 12 hours a day. The
specimen is located about 12" below the surface, midway up a live
rock wall and has never been moved. <all good as per above... must
have been starvation or abrasion from the clownfish> Thanks for your
time. Brett <best regards, Anthony>