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Related FAQs:
Marine Invertebrates,
Marine Invert.s 2,
Marine Invert.s 3,
Non-Vert IDs 1,
Non-Vert IDs 2,
Non-Vert IDs 3,
Non-Vert IDs 4, Non-Vert IDs 5,
Non-Vert IDs 6,
Non-Vert IDs 7, Non-Vert
IDs 8,
Non-Vert IDs 9,
Non-Vert IDs 10,
Non-Vert IDs11,
Non-Vert IDs 12,
Non-Vert IDs 13,
Non-Vert IDs 14,
Non-Vert IDs 15, Non-Vert IDs 16,
Non-Vert IDs 17,
Non-Vert IDs 18, Non-Vert. ID 19,
Non-Vert. ID 20,
Non-Vert. ID 21,
Non-Vert.
ID 25,
Non-Vert ID 26,
Non-Vert ID 27, Non-Vert ID 28,
Non-Vert ID 29, Non-Vert ID 30
Non-Vert ID 31,
Non-Vert ID 32, Non-Vert 33,
Non-Vert ID 34, Non-Vert ID 35,
Non-Vert ID 36,
Non-Vert ID 37, Non-Vert ID 38,
Non-Vert
ID 39,
Non-Vert ID 40,
Non-Vert ID 41, Non-Vert ID 42, &
FAQs about:
Marine Invertebrate Behavior,
Marine Invertebrate Compatibility,
Marine Invertebrate Selection,
Marine Invertebrate Systems,
Feeding Reef Invertebrates, Marine
Invertebrate Disease, Marine
Invertebrate Reproduction, &
Quarantine of Corals and Invertebrates,
Feeding Reef Invertebrates, Lighting
Marine Invertebrates,
Marine Plankton, Marine
Microbes, Marine Virus,
Marine Bacteria,
Marine Funguses,
Marine Protozoans,
Marine Plankton, Live Rock,
Related Articles:
Marine Virology,
Marine Bacteria,
Marine Mycology,
Marine Protozoans,
Invertebrates,
Marine Plankton,
Live Rock,
Live Sand, Sponges (Porifera),
Stinging-Celled Animals (Cnidaria),
Worm Groups,
Mollusks (Snails, Bivalves, Octopus...),
Pycnogonids (Sea Spiders),
Jointed-Legged Animals (Arthropods),
Bryozoans/Ectoprocts,
Spiny-Skinned Animals (Echinoderms), Water
Flow, How Much is Enough,
/The Conscientious Reef
Aquarist
The Pros & Cons of Hitchhikers in the
Reef Aquarium, part 3
To: Part 1,
Part 2, Part 4,
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By Bob Fenner |
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Red and more clear small
pest flatworms on
hard (Scleractinian) and soft corals can be debilitating if your
livestock is otherwise compromised or if they’re in too great a
number (Waminoa here on a Plerogyra in the wild, the brownish
one in captivity is said to be Convolutriloba retrogemma).
Another clearish species infests the genus Acropora. Both cause
damage by shading out light and likely feeding on the corals
endosymbiotic algae (zooxanthellae). Look for tissue loss and
brownish egg masses.
Best avoided through quarantine, possible pH-adjusted
freshwater
Dips/Baths. Biological
controls possibly include some small wrasses of the genera
Pseudocheilinus,
Halichoeres and
Macropharyngodon; Callionymids/Psychedelic gobies,
and
Headshield Slugs
of the genus Chelidonura.
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Pyramidellid
snails, as their name implies are conically shaped… usually
white and only a few millimetres in length. These are
principally problems with Giant
Clams, Tridacnid species, feeding on their mantles by night,
hiding out around their bases/byssus by day. Detection is easy
with a sharp eye and a flashlight during the evening, and your
Clam/s may show evidence of damage, not-opening during the day.
Removal and brushing of the entire shell (outside the system of
course) is the suggested means of controlling these pests. The
Banana and Green Wrasses of the genus
Halichoeres (H.
hortulanus and H. chloropterus), and smaller lined wrasses
(genus
Pseudocheilinus are good predators of Pyramidellids.
Right: An infested Clam and the Eight Line Wrasse (P.
octotaenia).
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Box
snails,
Tulip Snails,
Limpets
and so many more predatory snails are generally large enough to
be seen and best removed physically if/when detected if causing
trouble. Do be on the look-out for their egg masses and remove
these promptly as well.
Shown: At left a really big Limpet, Lottia
gigantea off the coast in
San Diego, Calif.
Below: A Sundial Snail… common predator
hitchhiker on Zoanthids.
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To: Part 1, Part
2, Part 4,
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